How to Split Green Wood for Spoons and Other Projects

In this video I go over how to split wood for different projects. I go over the safe and efficient way of splitting green wood so that you are safe and can have fun starting your new projects.
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[@michaelmorris1865]

I'm definitely more a fan of using a froe to rive the stock, especially when it has some character

[@GlennPArt_1]

Yeah, Froes look better. I have never gotten my hands on one, so I can't speak on it. Or make a video on it lol. But the longer blade and better leverage handle looks way better for the spitting process.

[@michaelmorris1865]

@GlennPArt_1 They're definitely nicer, plenty of leverage to keep the split moving how you want, and with their dull blades they follow the grain rather than cutting. If you come across one, I highly recommend picking it up and restoring it.

[@kpk431]

This was very helpful!! Thank you!

[@GlennPArt_1]

Awesome! Glad it helped

[@MeltingBecky]

Thanks for sharing! I just came home with some green logs and a hatchet and can’t wait to dive in. So glad for your safety tips! Keep making videos!

[@GlennPArt_1]

Hahah Thanks! I will be adding videos back to this channel, but I think I will add some variety to the content. I do all kinds of art, and I'm not doing much spoon-making right now.

[@DG-mv6zw]

Great tutorial, many thanks. I've just purchased my very first axe and have no idea how to use it, so this video was particularly helpful to me and others like me. Greetings from Scotland 👍

[@GlennPArt_1]

Awesome I am happy it helped you. best of luck with your future works!

[@Javaman92]

I've just got into carving spoons. The issue I'm having is every log I've tried splitting, my hatchet just bounces. What gives? The hatchet is sharp.

[@GlennPArt_1]

Javaman92 there are are a lot of reasons why that might happen. First make sure both ends are flat. Because if the hatchet ic coming in at an angle then it will want to slide off. Also if the wood is old, dry, and dense then it would be pretty split resistant. So what you can do with that is to do some bounce sets. Where you put your hatchet in the end of the log and lift the whole thing and bring them down together. That will let the hatchet get into the wood a little better. Alternatively you could put the hatchet on the edge of the log closer to the bark side and then when you get the crack started you can move the hatchet over to the middle and work from there. Lastly make sure the log isn’t too big for the hatchet. Hatchets are good for about 8 inches diameter max. Better at 6 inches or less. Then you should move up to an ax and sledgehammer.

[@hermestrismegistus2163]

Very good explanation, easy to follow. I like your videos. You're a good teacher my friend.

[@GlennPArt_1]

Wildwolf Bushcraft thank you! I use to teach at a nature center so I have lots of practice.

[@rickschuman2926]

Although you did so, you did not mention that you were making the first split along the split already in the end of the log. This will keep that split from interfering with whatever is being made from the blank. I usually split radially as this yields the most stable wood. For spoons, it does not much matter if they cup or flatten when they dry. For spatulas and spreaders tangential wood can cause a lot of problems as they dry. Splitting is also a function of wood species. Some woods split better radially; some tangentially; some, like elm, don't.

[@GlennPArt_1]

Rick Schuman you’re right. I definitely should have said that lol. And also very true about the wood species I was planning on doing a video series on the different speciesism wood and give my experiences with them splitting and working with. But then my computer decided it no longer wanted to edit videos. Hopefully my new one is better and I’ll be able to get back around to it. I haven’t had much trouble with spatulas and spreaders splitting from tangential splitting. I have been using black Cherry for a while so it might be because of that.