How to synchronize a 1960 75hp V4 Johnson Sea horse outboard

[@theodell6697]

I have a 1966 80hp johnson same set up. This video is just what I need to get her back on the water. Thank you.

[@hotrodtiki200]

hope it can help in some way. thanks! good luck with your project.

[@macsmith2092]

Can't thank you enough.!! I bought one of these last year and have been tinkering with it for a year now. I bought the manual but didn't interpret it right I guess. But my boats running great now.

[@StephenMazzitelli]

The cover on the magneto pully is upside-down. The outer edge should flair up, not down as you have it. This will tear up the drive belt. I was a mechanic for a Johnson Outboard Motor dealer for 10 years (60's thru 70's) and serviced many of these engines. Your adjustment sequense is correct. Nice to see these still around.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Thanks!, yes that was corrected shortly after the video was made. someone before me had ripped into this motor and all the adjustments and certain things were put back wrong. I also rebuilt the carb and replaced the cork float with a modified brass float out of a carter carb. really improved its performance . Thanks!

[@davidboat-hag3487]

Restoring 1961. I appreciate you taking the time to post this video. I'm not there yet, but I'm sure its going to be very valuable. Well done.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Thank you, good luck with your restoration.

[@frickandfracksicem]

Had my 1966 Speedifour 80hp Evinrude since it was new, love this motor and the little 40Hp evinrude Big Twin 1969, may favorite group years, watched and listened to my friends moan and groan about how expensive the new plastic outboards are, I will continue to service mine and stock parts, my guess my outboards will still be running long after I am dead.

[@bobhill6318]

I have three 2 80hp Evinrude's and one 80hp Johnson. Just wondering if anyone knows if there's a newer fuel pump that can be used on these. The original fuel pump parts are getting harder to find.

[@rogerjune48]

Thank you. I read the manual several times and still didn't get it until I watched you vid.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Glad I could help. yes, the original manuals are a bit confusing.

[@7norton4]

Thanks for the info, my recently acquired 1967 80hp is exactly the same (your vid is more straight forward than the manual).

[@UtahElliotts]

This is awesome. Just got a motor like this. Thank you.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Thanks for the tips. the past owner did alot of "repairs" that i have to redo. i never noticed the top plate! Thanks!!

[@BobRussell-uq6xs]

Thanks for the helpful video

[@sheddski2942]

I had 2of them 1964 both mint condition and a 1964 Starcraft starchief my dad bought in 1971 and it had 1 60hp and it never ran right but in 1982 it wouldnt start so we towed it in and he had the service manual and figured out no spark but had fuel coil was good points too rotor was junk got a new one started up opened the manual and all Syncrazation was off so adjusted all of that and it ran as good if not better than my 1977 Evinrude 115 idle was perfect so low trolled all day 5gallons then in 1989 i bought a 1964 75 hp with a altinator and that one was way off too but we swapped over the 75 and sync that one and now theboat went 6mph faster with 15 extra hp

[@hotrodtiki200]

there strong motors, if a bit of a gas guzzler

[@hotrodtiki200]

I guess they used sea horse for many different years. super sea horse seems to be related to the v-4 models. ya, you dont want the electric shift. its trouble. had mine running today and seem to tune out pretty good (run tank only) good luck with yours!!

[@hotrodtiki200]

It should ,,although i cant be 100% sure. these motors were pretty much the same for many years. I would suggest going on ebay and searching for a mechanics manual too, it can be a big help. there are some sellers that have converted these manuals to cd. they give a lot more info than just the owners manual. Thanks

[@mariaconrad4962]

Good information, it helped with my engine, and mine is different. Thanks for posting

[@hotrodtiki200]

glad it helped!!

[@hotrodtiki200]

Glad i could help. These motors are getting hard to find here in the states as well. There are no mechanics in my area who will even look at it. there are online places like maxrules.com who carry some parts. good luck!!

[@ibcrypto6139]

One my motor someone who changed settings and this was very helpful. One thing on mine was I had to remove the belt in order to get the distributer timing marks to line up so Flywheel/Distributer were both at Top Dead Center, (marks lined up). It was at least 2-3 teeth retarded. The think is it was running ok so not sure.

[@hotrodtiki200]

awsome! hope it works out.

[@norriesimpson9210]

Thanks for the video one of the best ones I've watched. I've just become the proud owner of a golden jubilee 100johnson do you know if the setting was the same? I just spent most of the day cleaning up wires and points and now I have spark! It's a start.

[@hotrodtiki200]

sorry, i just caught my mistake. i meant to say mine runs on 24:1. that does work out to 1 quart of oil for six gallons of gas. after 1964 or 65 they switched these motors to needle bearings and changed the ratio to 50:1. at least on the super seahorse v4 that seems to be the case. not sure on other models.

[@hotrodtiki200]

The manual for this one says 24:1 but this is a much debated subject among older outboard owners. this motor does not have needle bearings which is why alot of owners stick with the recommended 24:1. like you say though, i have heard of people running 50:1 without problems. its a personal choice i guess but for me i run 24:1. its a fifty year old motor,,more oil cant hurt.

[@billcumming1091]

great job. most people doing these videos just don't get to the point.

[@edwardboyett4339]

Thank you very much for the info. I have two motor a 1962 75 hp. and a 1967 80 hp. There not much info like your.

[@hotrodtiki200]

theres a clamp off the steering piston that hooks to a bracket on the back of the motor.

[@paulsamarin4988]

Hey, Hotrod, thanks for this video. I have the '60 75hp SuperSeaHorse, too. Just got it. Someone below wrote: "Every V4 ever built since 1958 has full needle and ball bearings," and I've read that elsewhere, too. They suggest 50:1 TCW3. But, you've rebuilt your carb, so can you confirm as to whether we have the needle and ball bearings? Mine runs great and without smoke, but exhausts quite a bit of oil, at 24:1 (1 qt/6 gallons), but based on other advice, I'm thinking of going to 1 pt/6 gallons (48:1). What say you after your experience now? Thanks! Paul Samarin

[@hotrodtiki200]

Paul Samarin Paul, from what ive read Johnson didn't switch to needle roller bearings until 1964 or 65. not real sure on the specific year. prior to the switch to needle they used sleeve or bushings. That's why older motors like ours run 24/1 mix. its to give that extra protection because of the lack of bearings. theres much debate on newer oils being more advanced and guys running 50/1 without issue.( The original manual calls for straight car motor oil but I don't recommend that.) some say its ok, some say never deviate from the recommended mix. I personally run 24/1 as recommended. yes, it smokes A LOT! at idle and slower speeds but you have to remember these aren't direct oil inject motors. its all premix. so 24/1 might seem like a bit much at idle but at higher speeds its whats needed. Like I said though, its all opinion and preference and the debate on the web seems to be split down the middle on whats best. good luck and have fun with your new motor!

[@paulsamarin4988]

hotrodtiki200 Thanks for the info. I took mine out for a little test run before deciding how much money I should throw at her. Well, she ran awesome and without smoke, from start, to idle, up to speed, and then just cruising around at idle. She throws off a LOT of oil through the exhaust, so I starting googling around. Before I found you, I found "fiberglassics," and one of the guys over there *seems* very knowledgable, but he thinks our engines all have needles bearings. Frankly, I don't even know what those are -- I have zero auto mechanic knowledge. It does seem to make sense that the newer oils (TCW3) could use less. If I went to 48:1, and my engine doesn't like it, what would I notice? Rough idle? Less power? More noise? Thanks.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Paul Samarin The bearing are in the connecting rods with the pistons. its difficult to say what immediate affect you would notice going 48:1 you could try running it for awhile then pull a spark plug and see what the end of the plug looks like. if the end looks white and ashy its running too lean. if it looks brown or even a little black its getting oil. just remember in a two stroke there is no other way the motor gets lubrication other than whats dumped into the gas. good luck!

[@jacklowe3788]

hotrodtiki200 They have needle bearings back to '58

[@paciencia0956]

Any chance you got a jhonson 75hp 1965 wiring diagram?

[@juniorgalicia5909]

I have a 1964 model and I’m having issues with high rpm. When it’s in the water can’t get the boat to go high speed. Acts like it’s missing and doesn’t want to go top speed . Runs good on idle though. Any suggestions?

[@kenmartin3011]

Super sweet boat and motor! I have the same exact motor on a 1960 Johnson wooden boat that I bought recently. I was wondering if you know how much gas you use in an hour at full throttle, or at half throttle? Just trying to get an idea for how long I can stay out on the river.

[@hotrodtiki200]

a lot!!! haha, these old motors are not known for there gas efficiency. I would say in an hour at wide open your gonna suck down 6 gallons easy. I used to take mine from the launch down the river slow about a quarter mile then blast around the lake for an hour or so and by the time I was half way back up the river id have to switch to the second tank. they are guzzlers. good luck!

[@paulsamarin4988]

Well, I ran her at 48:1 (TCW3) and I don't think she liked it very much. I mixed in a few more ounces and I think she ran a little smoother. Ocean was too rough to get a good test done, but I think I'll try something between 48 and 24:1 next time, then go to 24 to compare.

[@otm646]

What mix did you finally settle on? More oil leans out the mixture as you know, so many people are afraid to run it at 24:1 per the manual which means they're running it excessively rich.

[@hotrodtiki200]

24:1 like the manual says. theres a lot of debate about modern oils being better and running 50:1 ,,remember when this motor was built they just dumped regular motor oil in the gas, so that might be a valid argument for 50:1. my opinion is these motors don't have the best bearings in them and probably need all the oil they can get. plus its really about tuning the carb right more than anything. Thanks!!

[@hotrodtiki200]

Hello. this runs 50:1 ,,i believe it works out a quart of oil for every 6 gallons of gas. without the model number its going to be tough to pinpoint the year. does it say sea horse? i believe they called them this from about 1958 to 1965. the v-4 sea horses are all pretty similiar, though they did have an electric shift version too. good luck with yours and if shes running too rich and wont tune, its the cork float!

[@paulsamarin4988]

BTW, should I be extracting the ethanol from my gasoline. Lotsa tutorials on on youtube on how to do this.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Paul Samarin ethanol can be damaging to older engines mostly to any rubber parts. ethanol is hydroscopic meaning it attracts and absorbs water from the air. so being in a boat surrounded by water it can be an issue. there are additives you can by that counter acts the effects of ethanol. Stabil I believe makes one as well as other companies. ethanol can swell and damage older rubber products and it can also corrode things like the carb bowl because of the water it attracts. so an addictive will help combat that. just make sure it says it can be used on a two stroke.

[@hotrodtiki200]

Thanks,,glad i could help!

[@michaelpingatore3275]

greetings,,,,,, great video.........pulling my hair out trying to get my 1962 75hp v 4 al 14 running after many years........question can u do a carb rebuild video.......and how to set up the timeing on a battery distributer model

[@hotrodtiki200]

Thanks!,,wish I could do a carb rebuild video but id have to pull my carb back apart to do it. number one problem with these carbs is the cork float. modern gas eats the shellac off them and they sink. I tried different coverings but the gas ate it everytime. I ended up adapting a carter brass float (the carter carb that uses two small floats). soldered it to the original arm. it took a lot of fiddiling and I had to reset the jets (brass is heavier) but I got it to work. your carb is probably gummed up from sitting too. not sure on the battery distributer model. Thanks!!

[@michaelpingatore3275]

hotrodtiki200 greetings maybe we should make a custom brass float l.o.l

[@1kurt1smith1]

@@hotrodtiki200 not sure you still read this post but superglue also works and is not as heavy.

[@michaelpingatore3275]

greetings from seattle.... any one have the 1960 thu 1965 white color code that Johnson used

[@michaelpingatore3275]

hey,,,, hotrodtiki200 can u do a video on timeing set up please.......

[@keithdowny1515]

hey i hav the outboard motor repair and tune up guide, by harold T Glen,