HOW TO TEST ALTERNATORS IN TODAY'S MODERN CARS AND TRUCKS

[@Eremon1]

If ever there was a mechanic deserving of a fully loaded shop with all the conveniences, it's Eric. I hope this channel explodes into millions of subs.

[@garyisaac5634]

I ran across this site yesterday. This young man doesn't hesitate when he is working and explaining. He leaves no doubt that he knows what he is doing!

[@crosslofttipplerspigeons8227]

You literally killed it. The most easiest and informative video about alternators. God bless you from Palm Bay, Florida

[@alonzogreen1527]

Very educational video, I learned a lot about ecm control alternator. Your a good teacher.Thanks!

[@gregjones8501]

Man Eric you’re a whole nother level of a mechanic! Great video bro! We really appreciate you!

[@leondaniel1556]

I’m an electronic technician, and I love the way and knowledge you have. how you describe the function of every electronic diagram combining the practical testing and replacing a part in a car. an A+ from me.

[@steveburgandy2680]

“A few moments later…” that always makes me laugh. Thanks Eric for another great video.

[@albertjanse8109]

Finaly somebody explains the modern alternater connections, TOP video!

[@speedy_pit_stop]

I watch a lot of diagnostic videos on youtube, but your teaching is quick & topnotch. Keep at it, you will succeed.

[@robertmedina6875]

Big Eric I love the way you do your videos and how you explain everything! Even showing the connections you make! Great video as usual! Thanks for working hard on these videos we appreciate it!

[@billneu9520]

I feel like just left my tech school class great instructions Never miss your videos best on y-tube BN LINY

[@rickrogers2649]

LINY here also. Agree about Eric's videos. Side note- do you have a Nascar connection?

[@jgeorges3061]

AWESOME Eric, I click like before i watch the video because i know will be good with great info as ur other once thanks for sharing brother and now i am going to check the battery tester 50% off that is a great deal thanks and cheeeers .

[@rfans4]

Here, mostly people try to change Alternator IC instead change whole alternator module. anyway this Great video bro! We really appreciate you! now I understand alternator system

[@billrimmer5596]

Super vid. Will refer back to when checking alternators. Thank u!!

[@cpcoark]

Very good at explaining how these systems work. With that discount, I ordered one of those KINGBOLEN BATTERY ANALYZER TESTER

[@beverlyroemer5161]

The timing with the thunder clap was epic

[@fredsalter1915]

0:57 Nope. Didn't hear a thing :-P Great vid again, sir!!!! Keep 'em coming!

[@kingbolen_official]

Thanks for sharing Eric,good tutorial to show HOW TO TEST ALTERNATORS

[@99andrianmonk]

Ran into same situation when testing the battery in my wife's BMW. 900 CCA however at the posts under the hood got less than 400 CCA. Repeated test at battery terminals and got a solid 900 CCA. Initially I was concerned however in doing research on this have learned that it has something to do with the resistance in the cables from the battery to the posts that causes the test meter to provide a false reading. Apparently the battery tester has a high level of sensitivity to resistance such that the additional resistance from the cables running the length of the car creates a bad reading. Bottom line - best to check battery at the battery. Great video, especially your patient explanation of reading the wiring diagram.

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Great diag Eric! The extra checks so worth doing so you can be 100% right that it needed a alternator. Not checking the connector by back probing could cost big bucks if you threw a alternator at it, but it actually was a broken wire going to the computer. Until that check, you really can't make the call to change the alternator. Thanks for the video!

[@jlowell55]

It would be even nicer if he had shown how to tell if we had a feed signal from ECM to alternator when we do not have a wave form meter such as he has. Does anyone know how it can be done?

[@angelp9658]

Very very good job esse !! From Sarasota , Florida ! The sunshine State and where The Best , never Rest !

[@scroberts9316]

That was really, really cool. It's awesome to learn something new by way of your videos. I love that you get straight to the point. Thanks for the info and I hope you guys are diggin' the new house?

[@sulemanhabib1743]

Nice one and good work, I love your video intro all ways (A L A) Thank you. Habib Auto all day way from Ghana Accra West Africa

[@projecteli_]

Consider yourself a specialist and start charging more. You’ve got the knowledge, experience, and work ethic.

[@Ottonic6]

July 13-Lightning discount still being applied, so couldn't use this one. I'll wait and try later. Another great video Eric. Thanks!

[@damianbutterworth2434]

After weeks of looking on utube and the net I finally found some data on the PWM waveform coming out the car. Thank you.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

Good testing yields good call on the alternator.

[@wendellgreenidge3362]

Bro you are good and it’s good to see someone giving great advice and diagnosing the proper way. I love this channel

[@IBenZik]

Perfect timing on the thunder clap. I don't care for electric power steering and thought it was a God moment. :-)

[@davidwaters5348]

Can I ask if the regulator was faulty, am I correct in thinking you would have no square wave on the wire that talks back to the ecu?

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

You are correct! Thanks for watching!

[@davidwaters5348]

@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO thank for your time

[@vinces8974]

You are so intelligent for such a young guy Eric, great video

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Bought an '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee that wasn't charging. Previous owner had already replaced the alternator. Turned out the control from the computer connection on the alternator was loose. Tighten the connection, charging again!

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

Awesome!

[@Viper81766]

Great video brother. Love the tip on using a screwdriver to reach stud on alternator.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Eric thanks for sharing. All of your videos are excellent. Like how you give us a breakdown from the schematic. Very helpful to myself at least. Looks like a very simple yet helpful little tool to at least give you a quick understanding of what might be wrong. Hope you and family had a safe 4th of July Artie 😊

[@luis140500]

Great video man I really enjoyed it

[@stacydornan9765]

Your a awsome teacher bro,appreciate you and all your well explained vids,great job Eric,your the Man brother

[@orgtua4x48]

Thanx Eric...good to know youre still online...keep a good work yaa..still supporting you buddy..

[@frankdaiii6403]

UH...My Kingbolen should be here tomorrow...AND my THINNKDIAG dongle is working flawlessly on about 4 different cars so far. Thanks for the videos and demonstrating tools that work well without the "tool-truck" prices!

[@IAMNOSLEEP]

Thanks for sharing Eric,,, Cheers.

[@topitinti5258]

Hey buddy, always love your videos... Quick question, fair to say that when you do the voltage drop across BAT post and battery +ve, it won't show correct results since the circuit isn't loaded as the alternator isn't putting out any current?... What we expect to see is same or similar voltage at both but that wouldn't prove that the cable can handle high current without dropping significant voltage

[@simonparkinson1053]

At this point (4:35) the engine was running, Eric *could* have expected to find anything between 0V and 15V here, but 11.8 at the battery. But 11.8 was what he got. Refer to the diagram (6:20) there is a fuse and other intermediate connections between alternator B+ post and battery. As you say, no current flow means no voltage drop - but remember that conversely no voltage difference means that no current is *trying* to flow in this circuit - in other words you've ruled out the B+ cable from being the cause of the no-charge problem.

[@topitinti5258]

@@simonparkinson1053 @Simon Parkinson Hi Simon, thanks for taking time for such a detailed explanation. Really appreciate it. Fully agree with everything, however still struggling to see how we proved that the B+ cable from potentially ALSO being an issue. Hypothetically if this cable was also bad or corroded, we would still see the same readings and would have only found out after the same test was repeated with a new alternator. Then we would have seen a voltage drop from B+ on alternator to battery positive terminal.

[@simonparkinson1053]

@@topitinti5258 yes that is true, but the scenario of high resistance (fraction of an ohm) in the B+ cable causing a voltage drop under load would have caused a poor charge condition rather than a no charge condition. Where the alternator is externally controlled and monitored, the battery voltage may still be maintained - the field duty cycle would be increased to compensate but the losses would still show up as overheating terminals etc - which with the high output currents of modern alternators do tend to be easily visible. If the test was only done without the engine running, it would not be valid without applying a load. For a high current circuit like this though, even a headlamp bulb is not that much of a load and the best test is with a working alternator. Or as I mentioned in another comment, you could even use the battery tester to determine current capability of the circuit.

[@topitinti5258]

@@simonparkinson1053 Hi Simon, thanks again buddy... Just to make sure I understand, are we saying that if both alternator and cable were bad in this particular situation, we would have seen a different result on the voltage drop test?

[@brusk3978]

Perfect timing with eps and the thunder lol

[@abbasmohammed1306]

Thanks to everythimg you share. What is the best Auto diagrams software fpr all the vehicles? Waiting your answer. Abbas from Kurdistan region of Iraq.

[@waynesbutler7834]

I have a question on alternators i hope you could answer . If you have a 105a alternator with a 10 gauge wire going through a 14 gauge fuseable link to the battery , with the vehicle running with alot of the accessories turned on the alternator may be putting out 50 or 60 amps maybe a bit higher or lower . Why doesnt the fuseable link blow , the capacity of a 10 gauge wire attached to a 14 gauge fusable link has a rating much lower then an alternator working hard with no issues . Maybe i am missing something but hope you can explain , thanks ..

[@131R30]

Great explanations! Thank you.

[@juanvasquez7148]

gracias Erick siempre buenos videos mucho que aprender con usted

[@fcoalbinomejia5345]

Excellent tutorial brother thank you for sharing God bless you

[@DJ-tn7vj]

Bro. What the hell. Eric, you beat me to the tool again bro. Lol. You ain't playing bro. Nice video

[@marathonfreak67]

Wait... I don't have that Kingbolen BM580... but now I feel like I really need one. Although I probably would have just replaced the alternator after measuring < 12v and been done with it. Or hopefully done with it.

[@Swenser]

Is the regulator module checkable and replaceable rather than a whole new alt.?

[@gabrielsolarte9310]

Sorry for my ignorance, but doesn't it affect anything to have the socket disconnected to test? I understand that you cannot disconnect the alternator with the car running, but I don't know if it refers to this or something else. Thank you.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Like #6 Thanks for the video! Life is a learning curve! Hindsight is 20-15!

[@luismarty1685]

Thank you. Another great video.

[@PhillyDee215]

Think I might check out that battery tester👌

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

I just updated the coupon code in the description. It’s 50% off during checkout!

[@billsmith2212]

Thorough diagnosis . I am not sure what the specs are on Ripple Voltage . Possibly a half of a volt maximum . I think it's what the diodes leak as AC voltage into the system . If the diodes allow too much through , the battery will go dead . On OLD cars that used a red light to show there was no charging , it would light red with the key off . The leaking current lit the bulb . Bad diodes . There was a drain on the battery .

[@aminmombini6882]

hi eric ,just a question i was wondering that could we conect a 12V direct cable instead of pwm on pin 2 of alternator ,i mean just for temporary or when we don't have access for brand new alternator??if not please tell me why. REGARDS.

[@martinboucaud679]

Awesome job my friend.

[@markoguberinic]

Nicely explained. Thank you

[@brucegalary1808]

Very Awesome video..... Thanks.

[@Jpilgrim30]

Those remote jump start terminals show a lot of added resistance to the tester causing bad readings. If the tester reads in the mega ohm range for internal resistance when testing a good battery then it wouldn’t take much resistance at all to throw off the test. That’s why you always have to test directly at the terminal.

[@nahunp10]

Nunca dejo de aprender de tus videos Gracias un montón

[@gilron9585]

I like those educational videos :)

[@metalillness5951]

Great job as always! Have you pondered why that the battery connections under the hood prevented an accurate test with the meter? That would have bothered me until I had found the answer in the wiring diagram, etc., and if you did, would you mind sharing? Thanks!

[@jonk6137]

I always forget the thumbs up ty for the reminder, done

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

Thanks for your support!

[@jonk6137]

@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO I still think you are an auto mastermind.

[@JoseRamirez-ie2bk]

Hey erick una pregunta, cuándo es obvio que necesita alternator,,siempre cobras por chekar ,,si es ,,,? En este caso

[@LubaLuba1]

I am not getting power from my new alternator how can I check signal to the alternator and the alternator itself?

[@mikecont9742]

Great video. Very informative.

[@guttaricangaming]

I have a code of P305F on chevy malibu 2015 and I changed the front battery and the auxiliary battery in the back. And the code went a away for a while and came back on I don’t know if it’s the dual battery control module that needs to be replaced what do you think? And now all of a sudden I got a battery saver active light that came on and the next day a new code came on and it’s a P058D. (Battery monitor module voltage monitoring performance) so now I have both codes any reason why you think I have these codes? and by the way I the change the alternator 2 times thinking that was the reason my battery not staying charged. So not sure what I should do. And now ever time I turn my car on it says service vehicle soon. Please help

[@50calops]

Great use of your tools! As always great video!

[@Ranalla651]

I assume the blue wire was your gen control. Can you tell the duty cycle by viewing scope data and would the be useful? Reason i ask is in scan tool data on chryslers gen% is duty cycle. Typically when they read 8000% that is a failed pcm. Although that is pcm data not actual measured at alt. Last question the final wire(orange) you stated is a feedback to pcm. What does it send and what should you expect to see? Thanks love the content trying to better my scope knowledge

[@carmenjimenez8233]

Thanks .where do i find the electrical diagrams ??

[@robertfrancisco1193]

like that tester! good info

[@jimr549]

Excellent tutorial!

[@fredautos]

Nice diag Eric!.

[@jasonbissell9738]

First of. I love your videos and case studies. I have question about your thoughts on letting the alternator charge the battery up. In your video the voltage was 11.8v. That tells me your battery is very low. I was always taught to charge the battery with a charger. The lowest setting and with the longest time is best. My question is what is your opinion? And the reason I was told to do it this was because a alternator is designed to run the vehicles load and replace the voltage from starting the car and that a alternator is not designed to charge a battery. Because I very low battery will cause the alternator to run at a 100% duty cycle and its just not designed for that. Hopefully I made sense. Thanks for your great videos

[@MattyEngland]

Legend, thanks bro👍👍

[@Franz_giblet]

Great Video , well explained 👍🏻👍🏻

[@lupedelacruz4152]

Very helpful amigo thank you

[@anthonysova7117]

Hi Eric nice job and explanation . Does the battery sensor sense temperature?

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

No

[@tennaj1367]

4:08 Good idea,. would be good also to tape the rod and leave the tip exposed.

[@IBenZik]

How far we have come from the voltage regulator on the fire/fender wall.

[@anthonynicholls8010]

Great job 👏

[@stevenlkamara1436]

I like ur work bro

[@bwest-yq3uc]

Attempted to order the tester and it did not work on amazon...no promotion coupon allowed. what gives?

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

I just checked and the code works. During checkout under "payment method" it will have a box that says "add a gift card or promotion code or voucher". Type in WPMXAJR6 into that box and it will apply the discount. Thanks!

[@kingbolen_official]

If you are not live in USA,please check it in our global website kingbolentool.com/collections/battery-tester/products/kingbolen-6-12v-car-battery-tester-reversible-access-clip

[@coolgamerplays3417]

Awesome vid thanks for the help I will try that if an alternator gives out

[@radioflyer9490]

Great explanation of the circuits. Do you ever repair alternators or just replace? Would be nice to know what went wrong. Maybe a fifty cent diode.

[@victorpecina7137]

Nice video

[@alpine7840]

It is almost 1am and i have be up early for training.....but my brain screams one more ALA video....lol

[@PaulCTownsend]

Great video thank you.

[@AMGTOM]

Great video Eric. Btw, why you didn't check the brushes on the faulty alternator??

[@ozriblit]

Brushes? What brushes?

[@samrugtiv3839]

Good job eria

[@peterpeters2834]

WI need a mechanic like that in Belize

[@ahnilatedahnilated7703]

Eric, do you ever take alternators and just get them repaired instead of buying a reman? I have a place here in MN within 10 miles of my house that rebuilds them and they are very reasonable. They will even upgrade components in them to put out more amperage and fix any defects with the original design.

[@natashalewis6724]

Eric do u have a location or number trying to get my SRX looked at asap gas gauge and temp will not work key acts funny too i seen a video of one u fixed

[@Nellyyyyyyyy]

A vehicle running at 11.8v is a good indicator that the alternator isn’t working. Shouldn’t a good charging system be around 14.2v or higher? After checking fuse/relay, Simple diag in my opinion.

[@edwardjames6070]

great work

[@Santiago_Ordonez_]

Perfect...!!! 👌

[@WizzRacing]

Had one of these the other day.. They replaced the battery and Alternator..The light still come on.. Come to find out after looking at the Throttle Position at idle. It was reading 22%.> When it should be 3% or less. Cleaned the Throttle body. Light went out....

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

Wow! Thanks for sharing! This could definitely help someone with the same problem.

[@miguelquiroga5308]

Easiest way to test alternator is by turning engine on and disconecting negative terminal on battery, If the car stays on it means alternator is working fine.

[@julianarodriguez3635]

Can you test scooters battery whit this tester let me know thanks

[@Dinesh-il1hz]

thank you so much Eric