How to test cam/crank actuator solenoids (P0010, P0013) 2008 GM 2.4 L

[@amadoterte1714]

Mr Paul Danner, thank you for patiently doing a handwritten diagram for the purpose of illustrating clearly what is written in the flowchart, for the benefit of your students and a beginner like me. God bless you, sir.

[@ScannerDanner]

You are very welcome, thank you!

[@ColeTanner88]

Someone else may have mentioned this, but, I'll share my thoughts anyways. My theory on why the bias voltage changed is due to the solenoid initially not being a complete open. Then once you commanded it, there was probably a small ammount of current that caused the windings to completely open. Just a theory. Great lesson on bias voltage and how it can be so beneficial. Wish flow charts included it. Thanks Paul and the rest of the Danner family.

[@aviationist]

Dude, it's been a minute since I've visited your channel. I was researching an issue with an 01 b5.5 1.8t AWM passat and this video popped up. It was very enjoyable to watch and I love that you hate flow charts and troubleshooting trees as well! I just realized that you have a book out, and I will be purchasing it and make it my recommended literature for my airmen. The air force loves troubleshooting trees and flow charts, but that means that you end up with bad troubleshooters and technicians. I am going to do everything that I can to break them of this toxic relationship. I will never forget your act of good will, helping me out remotely when I was stuck in Florida as a young airman with an 03 Lexus rx300. Thank you for your hard work and hopefully I can use some of your educational skills to hone the skill sets of the air force's next generation of aircraft mechanics and technicians. Love your channel, have an awesome week!

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad to see you back and thank you!

[@anthonyfili11]

One of the best people on KZbin to watch if you are learning the automotive field. This channel alone has made me top of my electrical class and leads to many great discussions.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks Anthony!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great stuff, Paul! Love how you can come up with 40 minutes of material for a diagnosis that literally takes only a few minutes to do. I also can't stop playing with my scan tool bidirectional controls...really cool! The more ways you can verify a fault, the more confident you can be in the call and guarantee no comebacks :)

[@ScannerDanner]

I know, there are so many little things to teach and these little things can be a huge asset to us. How about that manufacturer flow chart having you jump the control to the ground wire and then check the scan tool for a fault!? Crazy wasn't it?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah that step was exactly what you teach not to do lol. At least it was better than just the standard ohm/continuity checks. But a couple voltage checks is way faster, easier, and more accurate. Flow chart testing procedures have a long way to go for sure. Maybe back-probing wires is not recommended by the factory?

[@ScannerDanner]

motoYam82 that is correct, most frown on backprobing

[@NullH3ad]

The one thing that you didn't cover, and the one important thing that your scan tool didn't show you, was what GM calls a "symptom byte" or an addendum to the trouble code P0013. For example, it might be P0013 0D displayed on a factory Tech2 scanner. I'm a GM tech and see these darn solenoids go bad all the time, but sometimes it can be enormously useful to look at those symptom bytes in the scanner and watch the DTC change when you unplug it, basically telling you almost instantly that the computer is capable of monitoring the circuit, the computer detected a manufactured open (unplugging it) and the computer changed the DTC's symptom byte. Great video, Dan. You could have also just ohm tested the solenoid itself, then jumped straight over to using a test light on the circuit. Just google "DTC symptom byte" and click the first link on Camaro5 to see a great example of how the GM scan tool displays engineering info. That info is also usually listed in GM service information.

[@Discretesignals]

If the solenoid is open and you have byte of 04, would the byte change if you unplugged the solenoid and reread the DTC? You would still need to find out where the open is at. Now if the byte went from OD to 04, you can pretty much conclude the solenoid is faulty. Nice dirty test.. : )

[@ScannerDanner]

That is great information! I have never seen what you are describing. Must be a factory scan tool only thing? I will be looking for it for sure! Thanks for the tip!

[@ScannerDanner]

Discretesignals I would think the answer is no to your first question. But this would still tell you something, and that is, the solenoid is NOT the problem.

[@Discretesignals]

ScannerDanner If you look at some of the newer GM vehicles in your service information source, the DTC look up description section may have a symptom byte chart listing the definitions. I found it in Alldata under a 2013 Camaro. Byte 04 is open circuit, so if you have a open anywhere in the solenoid circuit, including the solenoid windings, you should get that byte. The PCM won't know where the open is, but will know there is an open. I guess it can be used to further define the DTC.

[@ScannerDanner]

Discretesignals nice! thanks

[@glen-ozzstarscars8474]

Complete, thorough diagnosis. Excellent. Must have been a long day, when you showed the fix at the end your voice sounded 'tired'. Staying busy keeps everyone outta trouble! lol.

[@dondangerous4553]

I never get tired of your videos Paul, this is another good one to illustrate how goofy the engineers are that write the test flow charts. A little circuit homework, common sense and a few quick tests with basic tools will usually narrow it down faster than their drawn out tests. I hope your son gets the bug, he will definitely learn from one of the best! Starting to learn at his age it will definitely stick if he can stay interested in more than spinning on chairs. LOL!

[@ScannerDanner]

Hey DD! How's it going. Haven't heard from you in a while. Thanks for the compliment my friend. Beau is definitely the mechanic type. He helped me build my computer desk yesterday! Oh and that was a goofy flow chart! I would never recommend that test to anyone.

[@boosted2.4_sky]

I have this exact issue.. I've changed half a dozen camshaft solenoids.. And it us not a solenoid issue... It's a wiring issue.. Your video has helped immensely... Because now I can stop looking at oil, bearings, pump, pickup, solenoids,...etc.... On to wiring. ...( and PCM)👀👍™ SUBSCRIBED BTW

[@brucegleim676]

Craig, you mentioned wiring issue. I have a '09 Cobalt that shows P0017, and I have replaced the exhaust cam solenoid. However still getting code. I tested the solenoid on a battery, and it clicks, however it does not when plugged and unplugged on the engine. Thinking I may have a wiring problem. I have checked the fuse. Any ideas?

[@boosted2.4_sky]

Try the cam sensor... The exhaust side will set off what's called the cam/crank correlation signal... It's most probably the cam sensor on that side that needs replaced...👀👍™

[@brucegleim676]

I have replaced the exhaust cam sensor, and also the crankshaft sensor, but still getting P0017. I even replaced the exhaust cam gear actuator (difficult job) and still getting the same code. I ran seafoam in the oil then changed it just in case I had a oil port clogged.

[@JonathanDamianBurr]

Really appreciate the detailed step by step. Not to mention how dealer flow charts will many times totally bypass common sense! I've said this for years. Also, next time u encounter a Cam Phaser noise (commonly described as a "Dieseling noise") on the Ford pickups, In the case where no cam guide plastic materiel chunks made it to oil pump sump, try a 1 to 1.5 quart Varsol oil flush and change (in models where phaser oil returns to pan thru an oil return orifice machined into the head, as opposed to models that return thru actuator solenoid). I see guys all over KZbin changing actuators, cam sensors and cam sets at Huge cost, when it's likely a sludge/carbon buildup in the return orifice.. worked for me (specifically an 06 F250 4.6L).

[@ScannerDanner]

good tip John. I have an 08 Expedition with a 5.4. Is this issue you describe a problem on my engine?

[@JonathanDamianBurr]

Cant remember if the 5.4 is designed like that. It usually strikes at around 100,000 miles. Best avoided by regular oil flushes. Most of my clients avoid oil flushes, mainly because they get overcharged for it.

[@jarinwilson9539]

TSBs are very helpful as well. I've fixed so many Passenger Presence System(GM) with very minimal time spent on diagnoses simply because the information available and some common sense has led me to straight to the fault. I look up TSBs(if available) before I even pull up a wiring diagram. Just remember people, on modern vehicles, there is a lot more calibrations that are done after a fault is repaired. Like on the PPS you have to re-zero calibrate the system, otherwise the work that you have done is in vain. Memory seats are another thing that I don't see a backyard tech being able to conquer, at least not very easily. Awesome video Paul and yes, those solenoids fail all the time.

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks bro

[@mike-yp1uk]

great video. i change those often,but usually ohm test solenoid and find out its open. never has it been anything else. this is part changer mentality.after studying with your program of diagnostic principles i see that going two to four steps while i,m right there and knowing for certain brings better quality that is what has changed my life. my pay is better and i get excited by electrical problems.going the extra mile. i told my snap on dealer to tell others about your channel because i wouldn,t have bought the modis if i didn,t have this channel to learn how to use it. so mention it to your dealers guys

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks bro. BTW the ohm test would have been good in this case but (and I know you know this) what if you cannot get to the solenoid, say it is in the tranny. Do you have enough knowledge to test the circuit? That was the direction I picked. Again, not really addressing you here, I am addressing the nay sayers.

[@ΚωνσταντινοςΠορφυρης-η7τ]

Very nice.I am from Greece and I am happy that I bumbed into your videos.I have learned a lot.Thank you.

[@ScannerDanner]

cool, thank you!

[@stevethompson5518]

Another great video Paul. I liked how you started it off by doing your home work before you went to the shop. I do this all the time before i go to someones home to work on a car. Thanks again..

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

That was great showing guys how to do it on paper. "Do as I do, not just what I say."

[@TrailerAdventures55]

Paul - I have learned a ton from your videos. Thanks very much! I have spent thousands with service places chasing problems, and am glad to finally have a basic understanding of all of the engine/drivetrain management components. Hopefully in the future I can just handle them myself.

[@abcdefgh9138]

Just FYI, had a Chevy HHR in last week with the same engine, same codes. Having watched this video beforehand made for a fast diagnosis, didn't hesitate at all when recommending actuator replacement. Thank you for you awesome videos!

[@fredautos]

Very awesome technique every technician needs to know... Bais volts to the winn Thanks Paul

[@DJDevon3]

Very thorough diagnosis. Thank you for showing the world how to do it the right way.

[@verajavi12]

best thing to do is buy danners book and highlight the steps,study it and u will troubleshoot actuators and sensors like a total master.

[@paulfiebke3909]

Well tried getting on your super channel and keep using my old acc# and try seen how much month was. It never suprise me on your video I'll n see very be as good as you but I learn something new God bless you and your family ❤

[@ScannerDanner]

it is still only $11 a month my friend. Thank you!

[@51clarence]

even though retired,love your videos...this way I can still keep up to date...Thank Ya so much...

[@ScannerDanner]

+51clarence thank you my friend

[@stuartlade6611]

Excellent video again Danner! Over in Australia this vehicle is called a Holden Captiva. Most horrible car Holden ever made in my opinion anyway. Replaced hundreds of these solenoids. Found a few when you pulled them out to inspect they had a heap of metal debris stuck to them due to failing engines. So they bring on the DTC due to the engine failing but no other symptoms. But excellent work. Slowly but surely going through all your videos 👌

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@wyattoneable]

Hello again Paul. It was an honor meeting you Saturday. I wish I had more time to hang out after hours but it was fun just the same. I'm here looking for information on using the Vantage 2400. I just picked up a used one and I realize it's only a voltage graphing meter but I thought this tool would be a good start for me. In the mean time I'm enjoying this video because your breaking down the home work in a way that's easy to understand the approach you'll take on the car. I can't tell you how much I needed that. Thank you for all you do here.

[@ScannerDanner]

Good to meet you too Wyatt! Follow my vantage pro series on SD Premium. It is very similar my friend.

[@wyattoneable]

Thanks. I was hoping it would be because no one else on KZbin has anything on the old Vantage. Do you know if I can update the memory card? Mine is 2.1 version.

[@ScannerDanner]

If your lucky, you may find one. I just looked on eBay and there is nothing. Version 7.0 is the latest update they made ( I think) and it will take you up to 2003 for the component tests. But the meter functions are never outdated. Though the newer versions, ( I think 6.0 and up), they made the time base a little faster. Down to .5 sec total screen time. Your's is only 1 second.

[@wyattoneable]

Thanks. I looked on eBay too but nothing there. I'll keep checking. In the mean time I can use the meter functions. On to your Vantage pro lessons...

[@jessvaldez1407]

Awesome. ...I'm addicted to your channel

[@fomerrellero]

Hey paul I did found the problem on the 2003 hyundai santafe,,, the reazon why it still alive in idler is because evaporated selenoide was stuck open,,, after I fixed mi fuel trim number went positive, ,, second problem mass air flow sensor, I keep learning froom you paul,,, thanks ,,, customer happy ,,, am happy with coins in my pocket

[@ScannerDanner]

cool man, nice job!

[@1Klooch]

Thanks for the upload. I own my vehicle. I too am sketchy about back-feed reading through the computers when I suspect the computer is not at fault. I took the simple route. Replaced the two cam sensors and the crank sensor on a similar EcoTech motor. Before battery hook-up I did the ohms readings on the sensors, (much thanks for ranges), old and new. The Intake sensor was bad. Crossed fingers and did battery hook-up. Bingo! Engine light was off, even after a 30 mile test run, all other undesirable characteristics, gone. Next project is the replacement of the timing/water pump components with a quality aftermarket set. Wish me luck, I do not have the fingers of a spider monkey.

[@ElectronicWorkshop]

Another great video Paul Simplified and explained well

[@fmbfla]

Sorry Teach, I'm Late for class AGAIN!( to much "Van Halen Hot for teacher" (but i'm not, I just know you are as smart as me and are helping me teach) Great Tip! .. Other viewers need to be advised that the short may only happen momentarily when HOT. I have used similar techniques and continued to DIAG and found Open Coils when hot only when running and for a few seconds after shut down. Unplugging using a DVOM to test Ohm's (Be Quick) and I was able to to Diag A BAD Solenoid. Another one, using pid DAT for CMP* Commanded and true and viewing a HANTEK 2 ch O-scope connected to the solinoid and CMP watching the command signals and the CMPS. The one I remember was at Idle it should be 16* scope showed command but timing remained at 0*. Command would go On/off and on then play the money light.( be cautious it could be a "Phaser"), pull the cover and verify it LOCKS. You dont need to do a chain if it has low miles (recommended) . With VVT, change your vehicles oil like you take a shower... AS OFTEN AS POSSIBLE

[@alexgardiner3977]

Thank you scanner danner great work I've learn so much from you 👍

[@bgregg55]

I've replaced more of those solenoids than I can possibly count. if i see a 10, 11, 13 or 14 code on an ecotec engine i just replace both solenoids without any diagnosis. they have a high failure rate. dorman makes a version now but i can't report on their longevity yet. nice video as usual.

[@ScannerDanner]

good tip thank you!

[@huggybryn39]

Video and your teaching methods are excellent, also I like the way you show the use of basic tools and scopes in the tests. You could never get this kind of training or experience at a dealership. With yourself and your brother teaching you are helping the small business's. Just one question, when testing the solenoid could you put a resistor( same value as solenoid) across the wires to fool the computer and reset the code?

[@ScannerDanner]

huggybryn39 I don't see why not. I fooled it with my test light. Thank you!

[@mightywu]

Thank you for taking us through your thought process. This valuable experience is not covered in most text book except yours.

[@tammykammes7026]

bgregg55 i

[@toyotatechMDT]

Great video as expected. I really like the field work. Thanks

[@RobVasqu]

Thank you, helped me test and fix my Dart.

[@cruzrv]

thank you so much for taking the time, very good class

[@paulfiebke3909]

Loved this one have to try it keep up the good work

[@mekkibilal1372]

I have draw battery in golf 7 After 3 hours the battery is dead I charge it full And I lock it after 30 min After I disconnect negative But when I put multimeter in Ammeter Between them I hear something work in engine I measure 5 A It is normal?? SD

[@ScannerDanner]

5 amps! No! 50milliamps max.

[@BaronRosenhein]

And here me thinking I knew what I was doing with a scan tool. Great video +1

[@guayaco-dm3vu]

OMG!!!!!No more t-pins LOL.. Another job well done Paul.. You and your brother are going to take over youtube automotive classes.LOL.

[@ScannerDanner]

:) hope so

[@jroman23]

Great video! There’s a bunch of videos with the P0010 P0011 etc. and they shows only how to replaced the Solenoid and that’s not Diagnostic that’s guessing. God bless you

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad it helped!

[@seekingknowledge99]

If we switch the two solenoids and we see that the problem switch to the author place (intake solenoid) it this method will help?......thank you for sharing the knowledge.

[@johnmckamy6398]

excellent video Paul

[@danpereira6009]

another great video keep them coming

[@dazeboy79]

This would work exactly the same on BMW VANOS soelnoids right? Thanks for beating these concepts into my hard head!! Crazy manufacturer's test..

[@ScannerDanner]

Yes, all solenoids! But you have to determine if it is power or ground side controlled as that affects your testing

[@stevegunderson2392]

I wonder why he is not inside the building? Excellant presentation skills very sharp guy!

[@m4nikm4ti]

Most mechanics *(in the field)* normally don't mind getting dirty

[@markferraro5250]

thanks paul wonder if that flow chart would have smoked PCM being theres no load on circuit ? great video

[@oudijzergek]

The resistance inside the "ground" on the computer would be less then 5 ohms as stated by the fault tree. That would make it safe to short the circuit as with 12V availeble it will limit the current to 12/5= 2.4 amps (hence 3 amp fuse). assuming the actuator draws 1 amp the voltage drop on the resistor would be 5V. That would make for ample voltage to detect any abnormal current witch is use full in the trouble code department. It also means the abnormal high current when shorting it will trigger the monetoring circuit and it will self protect and switch of the high side switch whilst setting a code. If the switch is shorted (bad transistor) the fuse will blow as it won't switch off.

[@michaelb4780]

Great video saved me some cash

[@cwj9202]

Excellent stuff as usual! How about this troubleshooting procedure for that trouble code - back probe control wire at harness with harness disconnected; result, bias voltage. Next, resistance check solenoid; result, open (or short). Replace solenoid.

[@ScannerDanner]

I would still want to test the driver in the PCM for function too :-)

[@egyMag1990]

Grear video as usual Thank you

[@alexmessina3383]

Hey Paul. Top shelf teaching as always! Query. I'm wrestling a 2001 Volvo v70 2.4L, 320,000kms with inlet VVT, a new solenoid valve and an Actual cam angle variance constantly around 50% of Desired, setting a code (volvo 640A). It's a 12v ground side PWM system with 5ohm solenoid. I suspect a binding cam angle actuator hub. I want to test by disconnecting solenoid and manually full-fielding the solenoid coil with independent 12v supply and constant ground to see if cam moves its full range. I'm concerned this test may burn up the new solenoid coil, given I will have to full field it for a few seconds. Your thoughts??

[@ltkaffey]

Hey Paul,under the conditions for setting a DTC,shouldn't the computer have picked up a open on the ground when you used the test light to fool the computer and set a fault code?

[@ScannerDanner]

that is a great point! i believe that is what the flow chart said. most likely the full diagnostics are done on this circuit under normal driving conditions and the bi-directional mode changes this monitor a bit. That is the best I can do .

[@bkj242]

What I would like to know is there a relearn procedure when replacing the input solenoid? Thanks!

[@automedic9781]

Jerry B No there is not

[@jimbuford4147]

Paul, great video as usual. I linked to this one from your premium channel which is terrific. Question, can the solenoids be cleaned or should they always be replaced? Thanks

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

+Jim Buford replaced Jim. These are failing electrically not mechanically. Thanks!

[@Ashroyer86]

would ohming it out be a quicker way to test the solenoid?

[@SteveRobReviews]

Bravo- well done Paul. Is it P- (o) or P- (zero) for OBD2 codes.

[@ScannerDanner]

sorry, it is P- zero (not o) thanks!

[@frankgonzalez24]

Can you tell by using a resistance on the terminals if the solenoid is bad? If yes, what would the resistance be?

[@ScannerDanner]

+Frank Gonzalez yes, but every solenoid is different

[@gabet3754]

I work at a chevy dealership. that solenoid is common to go bad, usually the intake side. but anyway, replacing the solenoid pays 0.3 hr under warranty.

[@neverstoplearning382]

The best always. Thank you sir.

[@lgemin7475]

so do you just replace the 40$ solenoid and problem solved?

[@jonathanlessard5517]

Hey Paul i love your channel and i have subscribed to your prenium channel ! do you think that a noid light tester would have work for testing the circuit integrety ????

[@ashourtalia7016]

Could of checked solenoid resistance. It would tell you if it's open.

[@Akonmalik50]

@ScannerDanner could you please tell me where's the camshaft actuator for Toyota avalon is located ?

[@ScannerDanner]

It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there. Paul Danner (ScannerDanner) www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html

[@somerandomguy3868]

so not about this video I have a CE light on in my 01 Isuzu trooper 147870 miles I don't have any Scan tool ( borrowed and not returned ) I suspect a misfire due to coil over plug or plug I believe I can check minimum and maximum resistance .4-.48 ohm to 2.6-3.8 k ohm at the coil these plugs have over 70 k of their 100 k service life I think I can rule out the coils with my multimeter and at least perform a visual inspection of the plugs just wanted to say thank you for taking some of the mystery away from OBD2 I feel like I have a clue now

[@ironwill04]

Your videos kick butt! I have your book. Where do u get the wiring diagrams? It is so hard to find diagrams for the stuff u need. Also when you say a p0013 is a wiring issue, is that only for this vehicle?

[@ScannerDanner]

Here is a DIY version of the service info I use eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1= For $20 you can purchase a months access to your car, giving you the same diagrams I use. You can also print everything too. I hope this helps

[@Discretesignals]

Interesting test in the flow chart about shorting out the circuit. I guess they figure the PCM is quick enough to turn off the circuit before the fuse blows. Guess the circuit is designed to handle more than 3 amps until smoke appears. I honestly wouldn't chance using that test myself, but the engineers must have faith in their designs to put that step in the flow chart.

[@ScannerDanner]

I honestly do not think the fuse was there to protect the PCM. I believe it is there in case the circuit is shorted to positive. I could be wrong. Either way, I would never feel comfortable with this test. In particular because I teach universal concepts and this one most certainly IS NOT! You do this on other systems and you will fry the driver in the computer.

[@Discretesignals]

ScannerDanner I definitely agree with you there. You don't want to get into the habit of doing something like that, because you might get a shocking surprise..LOL

[@eddielima7010]

i have a permanent p0012 code on my 2010 toyota yaris, i changed the vvt solenoid and there is no check engine light but when i scan all system modules there is still a permanent code p0012, what can i do to get rid of it? is the problem fixed? the car is running great and no lights are on the dash... Thank you in advanced !

[@JoelAutomotiveInaction]

nice video Paul, will you consider to upload in the future a video of testing over advance code or more testing into the fhacer and pasage?? thanks

[@jahrain1693]

Please where do you get ur wiring diagram?u always mention it but I seem not to get actual word.

[@ScannerDanner]

Shopekeypro.com or you can go here www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/16-need-service-info-check-here.html

[@verajavi12]

flow charts are good for average techs, they eliminate ecm and wiring concluding the part as the culprit. The best and fastest techs use danners stragedy,only problem to that is u must know ecm control and variables otherwise u might misdiagnose.Also true for either pulldown or pull up reference sensors.

[@contagiousFX]

awesome video!

[@John-rz6sp]

Paul, I've got an old Tektronix O'scope just sitting around do you think it would be usable for automotive testing if I mounted it to a cart?

[@ScannerDanner]

should be okay to use. is it digital or analog?

[@John-rz6sp]

ScannerDanner Analog, so it won't be quite as easy as a digital

[@John-rz6sp]

It's an analog so will not be able to just look at the numbers. Calculations based on the settings will have to be made.

[@dougwilson8039]

Thank you so much Paul for your helpful teaching going to get your book

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you Doug!

[@franciscoroche183]

Hello Mister Scanner Danner how I can buy your book. thanks for the videos.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

It is available at www.scannerdanner.com Thanks!

[@Poochie43124312]

Did you happen to check the bias voltage after the fix??

[@MikeSmith-nu9wt]

The bias voltage may have increased cause when you activated it moved a little inside , therefore changing the number ?? Just guessing though

[@MikeSmith-nu9wt]

Nope 36 minutes in , my theory got shot , the good selinoid changed too ??

[@PhattyMo]

I'd bet there's a small value resistor (maybe 1 ohm,or something) between the "Low Ref signal" and ground inside the computer.It will monitor the voltage drop across the resistor,and apply ohms law for monitoring circuit current flow. IIRC,it's called a 'low side current shunt',or similar.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, there probably is a resistor there but not for the computer to measure a voltage drop across it. The resistor is there to prevent a short from harming the computer and to prevent the solenoid from consuming all of the voltage (Kirchoff’s voltage law) so that the computer can measure the voltage drop across the solenoid to detect a short, open or bad solenoid. It measures the voltage going out on the power wire and the voltage just before the resistor on the ground side. If the voltage is zero on the ground side then there is an open. If the voltage is the same as or very close to the voltage on the power wire then there is a short. If the difference between the voltages (the voltage drop) is not within the range the computer expects using Ohms Law (since the solenoid should produce 8-12 ohms of resistance) then it knows the solenoid is bad or there is excessive resistance somewhere in the circuit. But that is just my guess on what its doing…

[@petrocksgarage]

After thinking about it some more, the resistor would be on the power side. Otherwise Paul wouldn’t have gotten zero volts on the ground side with the bias voltage (Kirchoff’s voltage law again). Either way, the purpose of the resistor is the same. It becomes the primary load in the circuit if there is a short to protect the computer and becomes a known voltage test point to detect faults.

[@vernonbosshard9317]

Couldn't you ohm thru the solenoid to check for open?

[@bkj242]

The fuse is fast blow and will blow before 100ms. The scan tool rest will sho fault to confirm a short on the hinge switch side to confirm the computer is working to protect the circuit in this mode.

[@artsnow8872]

But, could the current flow be enough to cause damage in 100 milli-secound?

[@jesseruiz2337]

Great Video!

[@dominiclacavera1963]

Can you offer any assistance with a 2011 Malibu 2.4 liter gas. Had codes P0014 and P0016 with intermittent loss of power. Got worse last week to the point could not take on highway. Cleaned both actuators as screens were clogged. Now I have a no start condition and it is automatically popping the same codes after clearing them without the engine running. I'm thinking a cam sensor for the P0016 but why the P0014 to go with it? I using Carista app on Ipad to check/clear codes. I know that's primitive but have had good success with it for basic code results. Any help appreciated!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks again for your support. Unfortunately I cannot keep up with the number of technical questions I get from my subscribers anymore but I have created a forum for you guys for this very thing! www.scannerdanner.com/forum.html Thanks for understanding.

[@boosted2.4_sky]

Do you think it's random that the manufacturers recommendation was to use a 3amp fuse and jumper when tit were getting the 2.44 amp reading on the bias votage?.. (im not an electrician or automotive tech in any way)May be known that that was gonna happen and cuts to the chase... So to speak.... Just a thought... Great work...

[@m4nikm4ti]

2.44 volt reading* You do make a solid intro to a point of is it random. I believe it's intentional that the manufacturer flowchart steers attention in such a unique vas Direction that if in the hands of the consumer would definitely deter them being able to do their own diagnosis. And given they try it I mean... they might cook a circuit. They make money either way

[@vicenterangel6655]

Good testing

[@MichaelMcNeilg]

I am one of your students, out here in Internet land !!

[@ScannerDanner]

nice! thank you my friend

[@sivucit]

hi paul, when you connect the scope to solenoid with ground of scope connected to ground of card and another wire from scope connected to signal wire of solenoid( in my mind, i was expecting something similar to ignition or injector wave form) but i didnt.. am i missing something. to me this solenoid is same as injector or ignition right. in mor or less ignition or injector also have pulse width(turning off ground momentarily) in this case it is power..

[@ScannerDanner]

Good question my friend. And it would have looked more like what you described if I shortened my time base. The reason I did not show it on a smaller time base is I was just looking for on/off control, not detail. Does that make sense?

[@sivucit]

Yes Paul, Make sense.. I would be happy if you can show in any of the future projects that details the image of any solenoid wave form(apart from injector and ignition) curious to see how it may look like..

[@dazeboy79]

@@ScannerDanner makes it look more like square wave right? when u change the scale.. or zoom in on Voltage reading

[@nickayivor8432]

👍 My Mentor Sir ScannerDanner ACCOMPLISHED Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 20:53pm Good Evening

[@veterandd214]

I think there might be may have a circuit breaker built built into the pcm that resets when codes are cleared. International does this on engines they put into their school buses. When it does short out like that the pcm or bcm will turnoff that circuit. Let me know what you think or if I am right or wrong PLEASE!!!!

[@allensandven0]

Danner it been a while, great video as always , my in-laws 05 chev Colorado 2.8 had some codes that led me to this , I replaced the VVT cam actuator and the position sensor However on the mfg replaced part for the Vvt actuator instructions to test old unit recommended 12v bench test measuring the solenoid extension .0125 min ? Seems like a safer method to me ? Although didn’t fix the irrational timing issue , so I’m going to test the CKP before I commence my next parts sorties and littering the enemy part stores into submission with propaganda and my hard earned greenbacks ! Sound familiar?

[@TheMechanicman30]

Hook up two wires, one to 12v battery positive and one to a known good ground. Unplug connector at solenoid and put power wire on one pin and ground on the other for a quick second and listen for the solenoid to click. You don't want to hold the wire or wires on the solenoid for more than a quick second, but you will hear an audible click letting you know whether the solenoid is faulty or not. No click= Replace solenoid. If it clicks the solenoid is ok at this time. It is a simple two wire circuit, if you hear the solenoid clicking, check for power between pins 1 and 2 of the suspect solenoid connector with key on and active command for that solenoid turned on via a bi directional scan tool. In this case it is either a shorted or open wire or faulty ECM. Either way this is as simple as a headlamp circuit. What gets tricky are the Exhaust and or Intake cam over retarded or over advanced codes. In this case you are looking at Phaser, solenoid, oil pressure, oil level, top end and or bottom end issues. I work for a Ford dealership and you can bet your paycheck if a 3 valve F-150 comes in with 100k miles and a Valvoline oil filter on it with VCT codes, the cam caps are scorn and you are going to need a set of cylinder heads with phasers and solenoids at the very least. Most times I will sell a long block. VCT is a great advancement in automotive technology HOWEVER if you don't change your oil regularly, using a quality filter and oil, it will bite you in your behind down the road. In this case it was an electrical concern nowhere near related to vehicle maintenance, i'm just saying. =)

[@meltingpot1799]

.3 for replacement. but you have your time figuring out the prob;um

[@randy1ization]

can u do more vids with this scanner, I want to learn how it works intamately, as I like to work on 80s and 90s american trucks, Im going to buy one of these "red brick" mt2500s soon, thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

The "scope" I used was the MT2400 Vantage, you can find them on eBay, but I think I single handedly made the price of them go up lol

[@randy1ization]

thanks have you ever tried to update the unit as is claimed possible in the menu on the scanner, can these be updated to do obd2 as well as 1. to make the question easier, can you say what these scanners cannot do that the new ones can do. what im interested in is live data and wave form capabilities, o2 sensor reading, closed loop or open loop, injector voltage. bidirectional testing and sensor activation and de activation such as IAC Motor, tps signal, ect.

[@ScannerDanner]

The MT 2400 Vantage is NOT a scan tool!!

[@ScannerDanner]

The MT2500 "Red brick" is a totally different tool and IS a scan tool

[@AtomWin82]

automotive genius!👍

[@mrkzj2]

Awesome. Thanks.

[@zaheedbaksh9304]

Awesome!

[@the_retired_mechanic]

Paul at the very least you should be getting a payback from snap on. The amount on people who like me have brought their scanners after watching your videos must be massive. I told my snapon chap here in the uk and you are ny known about.

[@teristoledo]

great video once again Paul. great job. if yu continue like this i am going to make a tattoo on my hand with your name on it... and Snap-on's ''treasures''. i wish i could buy one :(

[@ScannerDanner]

look into getting a used Solus Pro from eBay. It will do all of the scan tool functions the Verus does. Thanks man

[@jHuff-dm7lz]

OMG...........so good.

[@plznotears]

Great tech

[@gvvq-pi5ml]

Paul loves 30 page flow charts and ohms testing, sorry must be the English sense of humour.....Fred uk.

[@ScannerDanner]

+Tom Smith haha yes, love both of those

[@artsnow8872]

I believe that SD loves Mr. Amperage more than he loves Mr. Ohms!

[@larryfine4498]

Mitchell is okay, but like Eric O. says, they really F up the color coding on their wiring diagrams.

[@ScannerDanner]

most of the time Mitchell is on point

[@LynxStarAuto]

I guess GM doesn't provide a bias value, because there is some other stuff happening behind the scenes they don't tell us technicians. Engineer dirty secrets! Lol

[@m4nikm4ti]

Precisely

[@ratbag359]

weird how the computer decided to send a higher test voltage.

[@ScannerDanner]

I know and I wish I could have explained that part better.

[@ratbag359]

Was clear enough for me but electronics is my hobby. Still was clear the solenoid was open you could have done ohm test on solenoid to show, but then it may have closed itself.

[@ScannerDanner]

Josh C yea, I actually meant to show the ohm test but forgot :(