How to test Frigidaire Door Lock part # 131763256 & 131763202

[@DevinOtt]

Great video, it is notoriously hard to find any diagnostic information for appliances and this confirmed my suspicion that the door lock was preventing the washer from spin drying the clothes. I ordered a new latch after confirming the wax motor had failed so hopefully once the new one is installed, we will be good to go!

[@PartsDr]

Great! Let us know if it resolves your problem!

[@richardleos3784]

yes a little research through videos and found yours and it was exactly what I was looking for thanks bud

[@PartsDr]

Great!!!

[@markallen5866]

Thank you very much.

[@PartsDr]

We are glad you found it helpful! 😁

[@jayzee5144]

Thanks

[@terryg2160]

Hi, thanks for your excellent video! I have a couple questions/comments: 1. Why is it called a wax motor (which I noted on the schematic as well)? I opened the unit and it is clearly a solenoid, I think for the door lock. 2. Mine shows the wax motor the correct resistance per your vid, but the device also contains a relay coil that is open (between contacts 1 & 4), I believe to enable the door close switch. So it may not always be the wax motor. Thanks for your help and public service! Terry

[@PartsDr]

It's a motor powered by wax 🙂

[@Matt-bd2or]

Wax inside expands when heated, pushes actuator out, cools down the spring helps push it back into place.

[@WardCo]

Thank you for asking the same 2 questions I wanted to ask! My relay/solenoid coil seems open too and I've got a no-start here. Need to dig up full schematic...

[@terryg2160]

@@WardCo It’s been 2 years, but if I remember right, I took a leap of faith and replaced the unit, and it fixed my problem.

[@Aktar_Tech]

Good job

[@chrismuench9161]

Not sure if anyone still monitors this thread but I have a Frigidaire FFFW5000QW0 that started with an E47 Code. I replaced the door lock with a cheaper online store product. I am getting 1600 ohms across the new wax motor which should be good but I am still getting the E47 and no high speed spin and drum only goes back and forth after filling... here is the part that confuses me: I can still get the high speed spin when I run the machine in Diagnostic (Test) mode as well as normal one direction agitation. Do I try a quality OEM door lock now, or do I replace the motor control board?

[@17orkan]

Great video. I have e43 error code, some people say it is wax motor and some guys say it is control board problem. How can I know?

[@ct7625]

Look for data tech sheet inside of the machine. E43 Control board problem. Replace the control board.

[@joseaguilar402]

What would be de way to test door lock sw for a KENMORE frontal WASHER

[@gx1501996]

Mine has the red color, reads 1154 Ohms and I see the error. Will now order a new part to see if that resolves the issue.

[@PartsDr]

Let us know what you find!

[@brettmacdonald692]

I have same issue. Did replacing yours resolve?

[@SunWindowBlindsScreensIncMohsi]

hello, meter shows 1276. is this ok?

[@b.imsanta7486]

I have the same door lock. It reads 2000 ohms. Does it mean it's bad?

[@grunzasr]

I have code E41 and replaced door lock assembly before I found this video. New assembly wax motor is 1120 Ohms but still have code E41 and washer does not spin. Onsite service person said the motor control board needs replacing but the cost for the new motor control board and installation is more than the cost of a new top load washer. Is there any diagnostics I can do to find out if the motor control board and/or motor are ok? What is the test (7) shown for E41 at 0:23 in your video?

[@ct7625]

Test 7. Make sure the door is closed. Disconnect the plug from j2 connector on the control board and check for continuity between the pins in the plug. Open . Check the door strike. If good replace the door switch assembly. Closed. Replace the control board. Kenmore /Frigidaire 970-c45072 J2 is 2 pin connector. Found washer tech data sheet inside the machine behind back panel.

[@kenroberts7406]

Frigidaire affinity control panel only beeping when I press any button

[@veruchaurasia8904]

Nice

[@55chev4ever5]

The door locks ok but nothing happens slight humming sound. Do u have any other vids on testing these locks further? Thx for your help

[@PartsDr]

I'm sorry we do not at this time. We would recommend to start by checking the washer for any error codes and going from there.

[@bbperez6361]

I'm at about 1220. My washer doesn't read error and I can hear a click when I turn on the washer like it's locking but it won't spin or dispense water when I start a new cycle, however the display shows. Is it time for a new Door Lock Assembly?

[@PartsDr]

You would probably want to do some more troubleshooting before replacing the door lock assembly.

[@bbperez6361]

@@PartsDr Thank you for responding. I opened it up, there's like a hairline copper coil line inside it looks like it's not connected to one of the solder points anymore so I'm thinking I need one. Thank you for your video and for your advice 👍

[@PartsDr]

@@bbperez6361 👍🏻

[@ct7625]

Can the door lock be jumped?

[@PartsDr]

No, not that we are aware of.

[@55chev4ever5]

Would the door lock switch prevent unit from starting and water coming in? My wax motor was reading 1265 is that too low?

[@PartsDr]

It could stop the washer from starting and water coming in if the washer didn't sense that the door was closed. The door lock could have a different failure beside the test shown in this video that could cause your types of symptoms. The test shown in this video is for if you are experiencing no final spin cycle or an E47 or related error code.

[@xiaojialc]

Mine read about 1250 ohms as well. My symptom on a Frigidaire Front loading washer was an alarm sound, and the door lock light did not come on, washer completely inoperable. No interesting error code or anything. Replacing the door lock module fixed it.

[@robertfries4656]

Hello Parts Dr., Ryan I have an issue with my LG front load washer with Direct Drive motor. I recently replaced the control board and everything is functioning normally. Ido not have the machine closed up yet because Iam still troubleshooting it. Yesterday I washed 4, 1 hour long loads conecutively. Up to the 3rd load, all was fine, no issues, error codes, mysterious odors, etc. I left the garage for the 4th load. The load finisshed with the chime sound. I entered the garage and there it was again, the same odor that was there prior to blowing the original board less thana moth ago. This time I located it, and it is emitting from the Direct Drive motor assembly, and the aluminum shield is extremely HOTto the touch. The control board is also smelling due to the heat it is generating. Disconnected the machine and emptied it. Do you have any ideas as to what may be wrong with this machine to be doing this, emitting this burning electrical smell? It is similar to the burned ballast smell from my light timer. Your thoughts will be appreciated. Thx, Robert

[@PartsDr]

Thanks for posting your question. This is a hard one to troubleshoot in person let alone over the internet. I am guessing the smell is just from the motor overheating or control board overheating. The first thing I would take a close look at is the hall sensor on the motor. They are pretty common to go bad on these washers and they will often act up intermittently when they fail.

[@gjergjidano5478]

Hello, I have an frigidaire affinity m# fafw3801lw3 it stopped in midd cycle and shows pause on display on every selection, I tried to to reset the fault code following the instructions on the manual but it did not work any tips would be helpful,thanks

[@PartsDr]

I'm sorry we don't have any tips for that problem. If you find the solution please let us know!

[@offroader694]

on the 20k setting i am getting a reading of 3.40...does this mean the part is bad? thank you

[@PartsDr]

That reading is far enough off that we would consider it bad.

[@offroader694]

@@PartsDr thank you very much! and for the speedy reply,,,am i correct in that this is 3400 ohms? if so, that seems so high lol! compared to what you recommend it being around 1500

[@PartsDr]

@@offroader694 Yes that would be 3400 ohms.

[@alexyemelyanov9164]

I'm having an issue where my washer would start and go though the wash setting then it gets to the rinse portion and it just sits idle and makes sort of a vibration noise. thought the door lock was failed but i put the multi meter on it and its reading ~1500 ohms. any ideas what should be checked next? Thanks in advance.

[@PartsDr]

Are you receiving any error codes?

[@alexyemelyanov9164]

@@PartsDr mine does not have a digital display so i cannot tell. the model# on the washer is FTF2140FS2. i have taken it apart earlier today and cleaned the drain pump and the penny catcher. the pump seemed to be able to spin without feeling jammed. I'm at a loss here.

[@PartsDr]

@@alexyemelyanov9164 Below is a link to the service manual for your model washer. This has directions for checking your washer for error codes. drive.google.com/open?id=0B03VGCZpsUSCUFFTTW9lTmRoUUk

[@elawads]

@@PartsDr My frond load washer does not start at all, we tested the door lock ( which has the brown end) it reads above 1600, what could be the reason for NO start at all. Appreciate your help if you can let us know what to look for.

[@badabing9234]

Would this be the solution for E41 where it thinks the door switch is open? Thx

[@PartsDr]

Yes, most commonly we see the E41 code being caused by a bad door lock switch. Although there are other things that could potentially cause this error code.

[@badabing9234]

@@PartsDr thanks for such a prompt reply. Would you elaborate on the potential causes? Thx again

[@PartsDr]

@@badabing9234 It is usually a bad door lock switch, but we have also seen a broken door strike, bad control board, and bad/broken wiring cause this error.

[@jamessullivan6679]

Hi i have replaced mine 3 separate times and each time the part seems to fail- it works on the final spin for about a months then stops again. My latest issue is now when installed the new doorlovk assembly, it makes a loud buzzing sound. If i hold it shut it goes away, or if i open and reclose it firmly it seems to go away. What would be the cause of this? It is definitely coming from the door lock assembly. Thanks.

[@deansabin4200]

No