How to Test & Replace the Heater & Pump in a BOSCH, SIEMENS, NEFF and more Dishwashers

E09 fault code showing on the display?
Here I show how to Test the Heater element BEFORE you order a new part.
No power to the whole kitchen? Dirty dishes? Warm milk? E09 appearing on the Dishwasher?
You have a faulty dishwasher...
This is the moment I reached for my Multimeter and screwdriver.
I like Bosch products, so decided to repair this once-reliable dishwasher that we bought in March 2013 (it's now Feb 2020).
Here is what I cover in this video: -
Pre-rinse check to see f there are any other issues.
Top and side cover removal.
Electronic Control Module removal.
Heater/Pump Removal.
Heater test using a multimeter.
Ordering a new unit.
Electrically comparing the old and new heater circuit.
Fitting the new unit.
Re-assembling the Dishwasher.
Running a test wash.
NOTE: It may be worth removing the top cover of the control board to make it easy to remove. Thanks for the feedback Alex 👍.
Please see below Dishwasher List that this video may help with.
I don't cover how to load the dishwasher correctly, as this would generate too much debate...
If you have found this useful, please like, consider subscribing and please check out my website for some interesting projects.
www.dev255.uk
Music: www.bensound.com
This video may help with the following models: -
Bosch SBV50E10GB/21, SBV50E10GB/28, SBV50E10GB/29, SBV50E10GB/31, SBV50E10GB/32, SBV65E00GB/50, SBV65E00GB/51, SBV65E00GB/52, SBV65E00GB/55, SBV65E00GB/73, SBV65E00GB/75, SBV65M00GB/01, SBV65M00GB/32, SBV65M00GB/35, SBV65M00GB/38, SBV65M00GB/43, SBV65M00GB/44, SBV65M00GB/51, SBV65M00GB/52, SKS50E11EU/04, SKS50E11EU/05, SKS50E11EU/08, SMI50C02GB/01, SMI50C02GB/02, SMI50C02GB/03, SMI50C02GB/04, SMI50C02GB/06, SMI50C02GB/07, SMI50C02GB/10, SMI50C02GB/13, SMI50C02GB/14, SMI50C02GB/18, SMI50C02GB/19, SMI50C05GB/01, SMI50C05GB/02, SMI50C05GB/03, SMI50C05GB/04, SMI50C05GB/06, SMI50C05GB/07, SMI50C05GB/10, SMI50C05GB/13, SMI50C05GB/14, SMI50C05GB/18, SMI50C05GB/19, SMI50C06GB/01, SMI50C06GB/02, SMI50C06GB/03, SMI50C06GB/04, SMI50C06GB/06, SMI50C06GB/07, SMI50C06GB/10, SMI50C06GB/13, SMI50C06GB/14, SMI50C06GB/18, SMI50C06GB/19, SMI50M05GB/21, SMI50M05GB/28, SMI53E05GB/44, SMI53E05GB/50, SMI53E05GB/51, SMI53E05GB/52, SMI53E05GB/55, SMI53E05GB/57, SMI53E05GB/73, SMI53E05GB/75, SMI53M15GB/01, SMI53M15GB/32, SMI53M15GB/38, SMI53M15GB/43, SMI53M15GB/44, SMI53M15GB/51, SMI53M15GB/52, SMI69T05EU/21, SMI69T05EU/28, SMI69T05GB/22, SMI69T05GB/28, SMI69T15GB/01, SMI69T15GB/32, SMI69T15GB/43, SMI69T15GB/44, SMI69T15GB/50, SMI69T15GB/51, SMI69T15GB/52, SMI69T15GB/55, SMI69T15GB/57, SMI69T15SK/32, SMI69T15SK/43, SMI69T15SK/44, SMI69T15SK/51, SMI69T15SK/52, SMS40A02GB/01, SMS40A02GB/02, SMS40A02GB/03, SMS40A02GB/04, SMS40A06GB/01, SMS40A06GB/02, SMS40A06GB/03, SMS40A06GB/04, SMS40A08GB/01, SMS40A08GB/02, SMS40A08GB/03, SMS40A08GB/04, SMS40A08GB/06, SMS40A08GB/07, SMS40A08GB/09, SMS40A08GB/10, SMS40A08GB/13, SMS40A08GB/18, SMS40C02GB/01, SMS40C02GB/02, SMS40C02GB/03, SMS40C02GB/04, SMS40C02GB/06, SMS40C02GB/07, SMS40C02GB/09, SMS40C02GB/10, SMS40C02GB/13, SMS40C02GB/18, SMS40C12GB/01, SMS40C12GB/03, SMS40C12GB/04, SMS40C12GB/06, SMS40C12GB/07, SMS40C12GB/09, SMS40C12GB/10, SMS40C12GB/13, SMS40C12GB/18, SMS40T32GB/03, SMS40T32GB/06, SMS40T32GB/07, SMS40T32
#WelcomeToMyGarage
#dev255

[@richardjjack]

Thanks! Fantastic video, helped me confirm the problem (RCD trip) and fix the dishwasher - everyone happy. Removing the heater+pump unit would have been difficult without knowing that you actually do just have to pull really hard. My heater had 20ohm between live and neutral (about right for ~2kw) and variable resistance to live and earth. Initially about 150K, but varied a lot and when removed there was no connection at all. So it seems that the problem (current leaking to earth) can vary a lot and stil cause the problem. I think the resistance would have had to drop to around 20k for it to trip the RCD - which I assume it may do when heating up and changing shape etc.

[@Dev255]

Thank you, I'm glad the video has helped. It is a bit disconcerting at first when you pull these out, especially if they have been there a while. Yes, the RCD should trip quicker than 300ms at 30mA leakage to earth, and 20k at 240V would be 12mA, so at least your RCD is working well. It could be expanding slightly when heating up and causing limescale build-up in the seals, thus allowing water to get to the element. Thank you very much for the Super Thanks, I will put it to good use on future content 👍

[@jamesbro77]

Just want to say that not being confident of any type of success I followed the vid and unbelievably now have a fully working dishwasher with hot water! I'm never one to comment, but it really did work and didn't drive me as mad as I thought it could've Thanks Neil.

[@Dev255]

No worries, glad you got yours sorted, well done on the fix. You may alao wish to increase the salt usage also (follow instructions in the manual) as this reduces the hardness of the water and can increase the life of these parts.

[@bilivino]

Many thanks for this video, it’s enabled me to confirm with absolute confidence the fault with my dishwasher. Like one of your other commenters, the fault in my element is next to one of the solder joints of the connector, and I’m weighing up the safety risk of scraping the silk screen off the next 3mm of track and bridging with a solder joint, or whether to play it safe and buy a whole new pump/heater unit - shame I can’t find just a new element on its own for sale on the Internet. Many thanks again.

[@Dev255]

Glad it has helped. If you do go down the route of scraping and resoldering, you may encounter issues with earth leakage from the element to chassis and would be altering the resistance of the element, possibly reducing the elements resistance and reducing its life. Entirely up to you, I like to air on the side of caution. Hope that helps and good luck

[@SanjayPatel-el7oq]

Thank you very much for this video, it was really helpful. I was experiencing occasional tripping of the RCD over a period of several months, but the dishwasher was working normally. Then one day the dishwasher tablet stopped dissolving and the dishes were not clean - the full dishwasher cycle ran as normal but the tablet didn't dissolve. I realised this was due to the water not heating. I came across your video and tested the heat pump with a multimeter, however, it tested normal (i.e. the resistance between the live and neutral was 20.6, and there was no resistance between live and earth or between neutral and earth). The motor also tested normal with the multimeter. Nevertheless, I decided to change the heat pump unit as the water was definitely not heating. To my luck the new heat pump was fitted and the dishwasher operated like normal. Thanks again for this video!

[@hunts318]

I can appreciate how much editing it took to produce this video. That being stated I must further say that this has been one of the most well produced and informative technical videos I have ever seen. If I was still teaching videography (which I am not) I would easily have given this an A+. Thank you.

[@Dev255]

Ah thank you, I don't think I've ever received an A+. It did take a while to edit this, I wanted to answer as many questions as possible without going too complicated.

[@Dave984]

You legend! Followed exactly this on a slightly different model Bosch. You saved me a new dishwasher. Thank you from Australia.

[@arturmaziarek5186]

Thanks Neil! I was about to buy a new dishwasher spending 300 EUR. Not much though, cheapest from Siemens. However, I felt sorry that potentially fixable equipment will end up on a landfill. Then I started to look for a solution on YT and I have found this video of yours! Thank you once again for helping saving our mother Earth!

[@Dev255]

No problem, glad to help. She's worth the effort 👍

[@KISMETWEDDINGS]

Glad to see you remembered to put the rubber suspender link back!

[@Dev255]

Yeah, almost forgot that one, good to do a final check, it's all still working well and daily 😀👍

[@alexlinklater4017]

Thank you for the very helpful video. I followed your very clear instructions and now have a working dishwasher. I would add that if the controller is difficult to remove or replace, taking the top cover off it creates more space and makes it easier to move.

[@Dev255]

You more than welcome, glad it helped you out and you can now relax rather than scrubbing dishes. Good point, I shall add it to the description to help others. Thank you.

[@rolandgower5434]

The control unit has to be lifted upwards so that the power socket slide clear of its locator slot. On the Siemens IQ300 I couldn’t remove the top of the control unit because it hinges at the left hand end. I thought that there wasn’t enough clearance to lift, but that was because a black box which runs along back of the machine had sagged down. Lifting that with my left hand allowed me to ease the power socket upward with a flat headed screwdriver in my right hand. I agree with an earlier comment about espares . To top it off the video on their web is useless: wrong pump, inserted by different method, into different design of machine.

[@FFC2009]

@@rolandgower5434 wish I had read your comment before changing my Pump, I spent a little while battling with the control box before realising how the black socket slotted in!! Pump all swapped and running a cycle now, all seems OK so far fingers crossed! My bosch unit was tripping the kitchen sockets.

[@paulfmcdaid]

I had the same problem. E09 and E10 error codes. Removed the combined pump/heater. Tested the heater element resistance between its power terminals and it was was infinite - i.e., there was no current flowing through the heater. Exposed the heater element by unscrewing and prying off the gray plastic cover. On inspection the connection between the power terminal on the heater and the heater element was damaged (bad manufacture? the remainder of the heater unit was perfect). Soldered the terminal. Measured the heater resistance which was now at 19.5 ohms. Reassembled and now the machine works perfectly. Great video, Neil, thank you.

[@Dev255]

Glad you fixed your own 👍, so yours has increased in wattage a little, hopefully it will be a permanent fix for the next few years 🤞. Did you manage to seal the repair with anything? I just have a concern that it could leak current to earth if water gets in while heating.

[@jamesthompson2522]

Thanks for the video Neil, I wish I had found yours first. I only found yours when I wanted to test the heater element. Once I read the comments, I checked out my element under a microscope and could see that it had burnt out immediately where it meets the connector. The rest looked fine. I used a scalpel to remove some more coating, and bridged the gap with solder. I then had 19.5 Ohms between the pins. Regarding your comment about protecting from water, I didn't have anything (since this is going to get hot). However the other pins for the heater are not protected or covered, (immediately at the solder point) so I reasoned it wouldn't prevent anything if water did get in. I note yours looked like it had water damage, so it is entirely possible water will get there. I have an RCD, so if I get current to earth, it will just trip the electrics, and that will be the first place I look. If it buys me another 6 months, I can at least start saving up and looking for a new one. Fitting it was quite easy - use a hose clip to replace the clamp if your not going to buy a new part. Thanks also to Paul above, as it was his post that made me pull it apart. I just went down and opened the DW, 30 mins in to its cycle. Nice hot water. (Pre wash to begin with is cold). Hope this helps others. I would only do this fix if you have an RCD.

[@MathijsGroothuis]

@@jamesthompson2522 i had the same idea with the connectors already exposed by default. Although I have three broken traces on the last winding somewhere, i have a hard time soldering on it. Any tips? It seems like it just doesn't stick.

[@cliffgrundy5846]

Perfect and clear instructions,helped me change over the pump today no more E11 codes. Thanks again

[@christopherhoneyands9252]

...and another thanks from me too. Saved £100's. Went to the same website, but only paid £86 (inc P&P). Refitting is a little fiddly. Found it best to remove all three internal trays and incline the dishwasher at around 45 degrees and then position the pump by 'feel' - went in almost immediately. The power cable has a socket, which is part of the circuit board. As you slide the circuit board upwards, the power socket slides up too, in a locator slide. Upon re-assembly, locate the circuit board so that the power socket locates within this slider and slide it downwards. Thanks again.

[@stephenmahoney6952]

What a top guy. I was about to get a new budget machine as the Siemens SN45e205 inherited with the house, has been perfect for 10 years until two days ago. No error codes, runs all through the cycle, fills and empties, but no spray and no heat. I assumed the heat/pump needs replacing. I did not notice any odd noises it just didn't work in the last wash. So unless it can be something else (?) I'll put the new pump/kit on. Great to see the detail/tips on wiring kit etc..

[@Dev255]

Hi, it's a good idea to test the heater element before you order a new one as it may be the controller. Good luck fixing your machine.

[@stephenmahoney6952]

@@Dev255 thanks Neil I haven't started yet. I watched both videos. If it's not the motor I probably won't fix it. Thanks for the reminder.

[@josunik2]

E09 Dishwasher not heating at all. I was insecure about the repair, I called a serviceman, he said it was maybe the pump or the computer. He would not fix it, did not charge me anything and advise me to buy a new cheaper dishwasher. After following your video, I got my part exactly as shown, changed it and problem solved! thank you, Sir, for the video although the part doesn't come any cheap is better than to buy a new dishwasher, my DW is a Bosch silence 4 series very clean and well maintained a shame to throw it away.

[@Dev255]

Well done on fixing yours, glad the video helped. These are decent dishwashers. It may be worth you checking your salt setting too, as if this is set too low in hard water areas it doesn't soften the water as much and can lead to early failure.

[@heinrichgrobler8880]

Thanks for the video. We have exactley the same machiene and issue. Thanks to you, we now have confidence to do this ourselves

[@Dev255]

Glad you found it and good luck with the repair. Please feel free to ask questions if you need help.

[@MrBilbo44uk]

Just fixed One of these. Don't buy from espares unless you have deep pockets. Laser electronics have same element for £70. However the issue is caused by calcium build up on one area causing the elements cooling to be less effective. This causes a hot spot and the element fails. The whole thing seems a bit environmentely unfriendly when you should be able to just buy the element. Especially considering the pump is completely fine and they have made you buy this complete unit when you only need the element.

[@Dev255]

Hi Tim, great advice, I have pinned your post to the top so people can read this also. Cheers for the info.

[@blablubbb0815]

I bought just the heater of the pump on eBay, used, but it seems to work. Just screw the pump open and pull apart and replace heater. Whey putting it back together, pull the seal out of the motor part and attach to heater first before pushing it all together again and closing it up.

[@Dev255]

@@blablubbb0815 Well done for fixing down to the heater, this would probably be the cheapest way to get up and running. 👍

[@blablubbb0815]

I just checked for calcium residue in my heating element and there was close to none. Only a very thin layer on one side, probably thinner than 10µm and it correlates with the current path of the resistive tracks and it is only present on the lower half (gravity?). There are 4 places where the resistive path can be shorted out by the manufacturer, probably to adjust the resistance and one of them was used and you can clearly see on the other side where the calcium built up that he shorted out part of the loop is missing the calcium. That is a clear pattern. The burn happened in my case directly next to the connection from the plug to the heating element and on the other side is no calcium built up visible, just a slight discoloration. My conclusion would be that the plug was not correctly attached at that point to the heater element and caused a hot spot which eventually burnt out. Nothing to do with calcium built up, but a manufacturing defect/weakness, which took over 3 years to cause a fail.

[@Dev255]

@@blablubbb0815 I love the detail you have put into your reply, I guess the manufacturers are not worried about the longevity of parts, just that they will survive to some percentage past the warranty period.

[@chrisgemmix0815]

Excellent, thank you so much for posting this! This was extremely helpful in finding out why my Bosch dishwasher stopped heating water, and how to fix it. A beer on me! 🙂

[@chrisgemmix0815]

In my case one of the pins connecting the heating coil with the plug socket had gone up in smoke. No electrical connection between connector and coil anymore. I was considering to try and make a big solder bridge across the burned bit, but decided not to because there's just too much power going into this for me to be comfortable with a kludge.

[@Dev255]

Thank you very much for this, I will definitely have a beer. You are a gent :-)

[@Dev255]

Very wise, I don't think the solder would have stood up to the heat and current flow.

[@pepos83pg]

Thank you for great video. Just fixed my dishwasher :)

[@Dev255]

Glad the video helped, well done for fixing your dishwasher 👍

[@jillscotney8290]

Thanks for this video Neil. so helpful to diagnose our dishwasher, test and buy the new part…

[@anonnona8099]

Replaced mine yesterday - pretty straightforward. I had no E09 error code - just the machine tripping the RCD when running any wash programme but working fine on pre-rinse, which doesnt heat the water. As Tim Hoad says it's bad environmentally that a perfectly good pump has to be trashed because the heating element has failed. I intend to write (not email - paper letters get much more attention) to Bosch to express my disapproval. Anyway - as I said, pretty easy job - the hardest part was getting the control module back in. Couple of tips: If you lie the machine on its side it is *much* easier to access everything and see what you're doing. The control module is easier to get back in if you take its top cover off and then replace it once the module is back. And looking at the rear of the space from the inside to understand where the mains connector part has to slide in makes the job easier, as you cant see it when you start to maneuvre the module back in. I bought my part from espares - the Lazer one isnt a Bosch one. Yes - I know it's 99.9999% likely to be made in the same factory in China, but for £50 I didnt want to take the chance of more hassle. And espares did next day delivery even with an evening order so I got it fixed quicker.

[@Dev255]

Hi, I hope Bosch take note from your letter as you are right, it's a shame to throw the motor away, I'm looking to use my old pump in a different project (MGF EV Conversion) so it doesn't go to waste. You have made some good points in your write-up, it does make sense to turn it on its side. Glad you got yours sorted.

[@srikantagrawal]

Thank you for such a great informative video. Excellent job in showing clearly where is what.

[@Dev255]

Hi, you're welcome, I hope it has helped you.

[@poesface1414]

Thank you from darkest Africa for this excellent video, I was able to repair my heating element which had a open circuit track fault near the connection, by cleaning and soldering a thick bridge of high temperature solder from the track to the connector. I've tested the dishwasher and it works very well no flashing fault code. Noticed that my version was missing all the sound suppression fitted to the EU models! I wondered why it was called " Silent" .

[@Dev255]

Hi, you are very welcome, I'm glad it helped you and you managed to fix it. Maybe you could install some sound suppression.

[@vwairlines]

Many thanks for your video, fixing the dishwasher was very easy after finding your video. Much appreciated! Greetings from the Netherlands 👍

[@Dev255]

Thank you, glad you fixed yours. Hi from the UK 👍

[@darrenclahane7315]

Really useful, many thanks - would not have known where to start had I not seen this

[@melihcetin4112]

Thank you very much. I ll check mine and if i found it is faulty, get the new one and replace it by watching your detailed video! Many thanks.

[@Dev255]

No problem and good luck with yours. Feel free to ask questions, I always try to give helpful advice.

[@chrispyemont6632]

Fantastic video, got the job done in 20mins thanks to this. 👍

[@jmbainbridge1]

That’s very helpful ... I need to pull my pump out and check the element resistance.

[@Dev255]

Good luck, hope you figure out your fault, feel free to comment here if you have a question.

[@jmbainbridge1]

@@Dev255 Heater was open circuit. Now replaced and appears to be working! New pump was fiddly to install. I found removing the rubber support and using a finger to guide the back of the output pipe on helped.

[@Dev255]

Glad you got it on and all appears to be working, if there were to be any leek for the water connections there is a float switch underneath, so it looks as if you fitted it correctly. 👍

[@cage71-ho2sw]

Thank you replaced heating element and works fine now :-)

[@Dev255]

Glad it helped you 👍.

[@chrisnicol76]

Excellent guide - very helpful, thankyou. My issue turned out to be a loose pipe clamp where the heater pump connects to / discharges to the inside of the machine. I think this was causing water buildup in the bottom of the dishwasher, shorting either the heater pump or discharge pump - causing the fusebox to trip. Possibly not helped by some debris inside the heater pump impeller section. Anyway, working well now - thanks again. ps. as Alex Linklater mentions below, step 1 / getting the control box out of the dishwasher proved impossible on my model (a bit different to that in the video [SMS40m02au]), until I worked out how to remove the top cover. To do this, I needed to unclip the left top end clips on that top cover, which took a bit of brute force / a small tool to lever them undone.

[@Dev255]

Thank you - well done for fixing your machine, you have a sound diagnosis there with water getting into the electrical side after building up in the base, this would definitely cause an earth leak that trips the fuse box. Also give you confidence that you mains will trip on fault conditions 👍. Glad you found the video useful.

[@chriswebster5964]

Cheers fella. I had a slightly different issue, low recirculation water pressure and no hot water (but oddly no error codes). I knew the pump wasn't working so assumed the heater pump unit had failed. Ordered a new unit and installed using your video this morning. Working Dishwasher! saved us £550 for a new dishwasher. I'll drop a donation to your Patreon

[@Dev255]

Hi Chris. I'm glad the video helped you; no need for a donation though, just happy to help.

[@vicerruiz]

¡Estupendo tutorial! Muchas gracias por tu tiempo y tu ayuda. Me ha ayudado mucho

[@Dev255]

Hola, eres más que bienvenido, me alegro de haberte ayudado.

[@mohammedkadim6185]

Thanks for a great video. Helped me a lot sis the fix with no problems. Thanks again

[@Dev255]

No problems, I'm glad it helped you fix your machine.

[@jorenvandamme]

I was able to fix my dishwasher with your video. Saved me lots of money. Thanks!

[@Dev255]

No problem, I'm glad the video helped you

[@mazedaarChutkule]

how? the part itself is 150 pounds,how is that saving?

[@jorenvandamme]

​@@mazedaarChutkule It costed me €70. A new dishwasher costs €700.

[@daghetnie]

Big help thanks! And note that the 2 purple connections need to be connected, 1 to the pump and one left from the pump (not sure what it is). You will get E20 if you fail to connect it properly. You can see it in the video @11:15 it's behind the blue and 2 yellow wires.

[@Dev255]

Hi, I'm glad it has helped you. Yes, the one to the pump has 3 wires for the DC brushless sprayer pump and the one to the left is also a DC brushless motor, that one is the drain pump. Thank you for the additional info on the E20 fault.

[@arvischilf2950]

The only one out of many who really nailed it! Tnx!

[@Dev255]

Thank you.

[@Woodthreep]

Thanks a lot!! You saved my dishwasher :) 40 euros fix instead of buying a new one! Plus some knowledge about dishwashers 😅

[@Dev255]

No worries, glad I could help you 😉

[@mazedaarChutkule]

how did you get this part for 40 euros?

[@Woodthreep]

@@mazedaarChutkule I live in France and there is a huge second hand market on a website called Leboncoin!

[@alistairmcmeekin5382]

Excellent video. The symptoms seem to tally exactly with my problem - error code, RCD tripping etc. I will investigate with a multimeter. A new part is a pain, but the whole machine is at least £600 so money saved by doing the repair. Many thanks

[@Dev255]

Thank you, no worries. I hope you get yours fixed; they really are nice machines if looked after. Feel free to let me know how your repair went and if you have any questions.

[@alistairmcmeekin5382]

Hi, I have tested the pins of the motor/heater as per your video. No continuity (open circuit) and any combination of pins. I believe you got a few ohms between the earth and at least one of the other pins. Conclusion?

[@alistairmcmeekin5382]

I have just watched to the end again and noted that when the unit was dried out it was open circuit - like mine. I will source a replacement

[@Dev255]

@@alistairmcmeekin5382 Hi, yes there should be no short to earth at all, that would be why your trip is activating. It's worth opening the old unit up when the new one arrives (once the fault is fixed) just to see the damage. It's a shame to throw the old unit out with a decent pump though, although you could sell it for scrap at EMR or somewhere similar.

[@gashelio17]

Amazing vídeo! Helped me to fix my machine. Thanks

[@faisalkhawajah6852]

Great video professional mentor. Thanks for sharing

[@Dev255]

Thank you, I hope it helped.

[@adrianhaw4635]

An excellent and detailed video, thank you. The thick film heater elements seem to be failing prematurely. Although the heater elements is available freom China, min order is 1000 units, so you have to buy the complete pump and heater assembly to repair the E09 fault..

[@Dev255]

Thank you. Yes, they come fully assembled; there may be people out there who can refurbish yours, especially if they have ordered a number from China; this may be the cheaper option. It may be worth you asking a local repair shop.

[@Teleportcamera]

Bosch made sure that even if you manage to remove the blue heating element, it's not possible to put it back in. The seal around it is submillimeter precision - it's just not possible to get the angle right for it to fit back in. You will have to buy a whole new pump.

[@rogereverest5230]

Brilliant clear video many thanks helped a lot in explaining why the circuit breaker was being tripped at that point I had the same issue.

[@Dev255]

Thank you, I'm glad it helped you.

[@rogereverest5230]

@@Dev255 hi I have now ordered a replacement heater pump and removed the faulty unit as described. Unfortunately I managed to remove the three grey wires from the small pin connecter whilst removing the small heater sensor plug. I have managed to refit the wires but was not sure where each wire was fitted in the plug. As they are all grey is the position important and if so how can I find the correct order for fitting. I hope this makes sense and look forward to your reply. Many thanks

[@Dev255]

@@rogereverest5230 Hi, the wire order shouldn't matter as these wires go to a passive thermistor on the main heater plate. I'll take a look at mine and confirm this later today for you

[@rogereverest5230]

@@Dev255 thank you once again really helps to know how to tackle these repair jobs great videos and response best regards roger

[@Dev255]

No worries,@@rogereverest5230, I don't have the one that I took off of mine, although the component on the heater plate is a thermistor that is passive and changes resistance as the temperature changes. From the 3 wires, I would say there is 2 x thermistors, so one wire would be a centre tap and the other 2 go either side of each thermistor. You may be able to measure the wires resistance to earth (chassis) - With the Power OFF - before connecting it onto the new unit, you will be measuring back to the control unit. Two of the wires should read the same resistance and the other reads lower or higher. The one that reads either lower or higher should be the centre wire. It wont matter which way round the other two wires connect if they are matching thermistors. This is only my educated guess though, so you may want to seek further advice from a local repair shop. If the machine still brings up an error it may be down to these 3 wires and may need moving around to get it to work. Please be safe if you are testing the machine with the cover off, water and electric make for a dangerous environment, ensure you can switch the machine off from a breaker/fused spur without touching the machine. I hope this helps. Kind regards, Neil.

[@thomasrobinson4800]

Many thanks for the video. It gave me the confidence to do the job myself rather than get a man out, saving time and expense! If there's a way of me buying you a beer, then please let me know how

[@Dev255]

You've just bought me a beer by taking the time to comment on the video👍. I'm glad you fixed your unit, glad the video helped you out.

[@ianlyle-BMW-E46-F82]

Evening , great video 👍. I don’t have a multi meter and tested those 2 terminals with a battery and a bulb, bud did not illuminate so I take it this is an open circuit.

[@Dev255]

Thank you, a bulb and battery will work well to test the circuit as it should only be around 20 ohms, you can normally separate the front housing from the rear by bending the clips (takes a bit of force and can damage the clips if not careful) and pulling the housings apart, you can then see any damage to the tracks if that helps.

[@pinda4567]

Thank you for posting this video. It's quite helpful as I will change my heat-pump once the new one arrives. One question though: The plastic connector of the 3 purple wires was damaged. I got a new connector, but I'm not sure if I got the cabling order right. (Labeling on the pump shows 3, 2 and 1). Any Idea /help for connecting the purple wires?

[@Dev255]

Hi, glad the video was helpful. The motor is a DC Brushless type, so each wire would be 120º out of phase of each other, so the pump may run in reverse if connected incorrectly; if this is the case (IE no water sound through the spray rotors) then swap 2 of the wires over and this will be sufficient. As long as the wires don't short out the motor will run. Unfortunately, I don't have a lead to refer to. I hope that helps.

[@neilmorgan1382]

Thanks, your video saved me £500!

[@JP.708]

Great vid. Would all these bosch heater pumps be pretty much the same as yours on newer models?

[@Dev255]

Hi, I would not be sure on these now sorry, it may be worth you enquiring at e-spares or other suppliers with your model number

[@davzer3773]

Neil, appreciate your view on my dishwasher. No error codes, water fill and extraction fine, water heating but not washing the pots. Found that the rotary arms are not rotating which I assume to be lack of water pressure from the circulation pump. Pump out and found the spindle bearings have play. I am right in assuming this is the problem (weak pump) or is it something else?

[@Dev255]

There is a fair bit of play in most pumps normally and may seem to be too loose without water in there. You may find there is a blockage in the pipes feeding the rotors from the pump outlet or within the rotors themselves. If you are not getting an error code, then I believe the motor should be ok, I'm not sure if the controller monitors motor current when running though. Can you hear the pump when it tries to run?

[@davzer3773]

@@Dev255 Cheers for the reply. Rotors are clear, when I run the machine and open the door water is running out of the rotor arms but they do not rotate (they stay in the position I place them in to check rotation) which led me to think it is a lack of water pressure, hence my investigation of the pump motor. I can hear the pump running, I did think maybe the impeller had failed but that is intact. Any ideas?

[@burnsy180]

Hey mate, fantastic video, very informative. My Bosch dishwasher has been tripping the house safety switch (not the circuit CB), after running for about 2 mins. I assume this was from restarting the last cycle, then when the heater or pump kicks on, everything's off. I've removed the pump and tested the element, which seems fine (20ohms and no earth short). Any suggestions to test further?

[@Dev255]

Hi, thank you. I would check the circuit board (control board) for water ingress and all other electrical items, it may be that a cable to the motor or heater element is damaged at the bottom of the machine, where these can be found sitting in a pool of salty, dishwasher soapy rich water for years that may degrade the insulation. It sounds as if this fault is with some high power/voltage circuit that is leaking current to earth (hence the house trip), so it's unlikely to be low voltage items such as sensors around the unit; I would therefore look at the following: Heater element (although you have already checked this), phases of the motor (on resistance check, pins 1 to 2, 1 to 3, then 2 to 3, all should read the same and all 3 should have high resistance to earth (M ohms)), water inlet valves (water may be getting to the coil/connections), any part of the main control board. Hope that helps and good luck

[@burnsy180]

@@Dev255 hi again, so the heater element actually has a small arc across the element, bridging 2 lines. They're part of the same circuit and only take about 60mm of the coil out of the circuit, reducing it to 18.6 ohm at the connector. Would 1.4 ohm drop (from 20 ohms as per your new one) in the coil cause the trip? Otherwise the board had no water. I'm going to plug it back in and try on pre rinse (no heating) to see if the coil is causing this.

[@aysuhankubilay9823]

Thanks for the video. I repaired the resistor with solder. It has 17.5 ohm a bit less than the normal value but I think safety factor is around 2 so it is not a problem. My question is, where could water have entered the pump and damaged the resistance? I saw rust in the resistance housing. Thanks in advance

[@jcb8014]

Thanks for the video

[@Dev255]

No problem, hope it helped.

[@lyntonbell7604]

thanks mate, I did all mine but then getting e15 flooding warning (but e9 has gone now and heat pump works). I think it's due to my new pump not coming with a retaining clip as you show with your instruction. having a look to see if I can find one on amazon but otherwise I'm testing shoving the vertical up as far as I can go and pulling the old retaining clip down as much as I can

[@Dev255]

No dramas, I hope the video helped. It can be a little challenging to get everything back together and sealed tight in those small spaces. Also take a look at the sump water level sensor (usually in front of the removable filter) this sometimes gets knocked and can leak into the base.

[@bluetechn]

Very helpful video, I replaced the heat pump without issues. However I run a cycle and the water was still cold. Any ides what could cause this, if it's not the heat pump?

[@bluetechn]

I talked too soon. Water is hot. Dishwasher fixed. Happy man!

[@Dev255]

Thank you, glad you fixed it 👍

[@niallcallanan8909]

Hi Neil, I had E09 error, as heater wasn't giving a reading on heater I got new heat pump. The E09 error is gone but it's not heating the water even though I'm getting 20 ohms on element. Would you have any ideas?

[@Dev255]

Hi, was the old pump reading less than 20 ohms, you may wish to check your heater connection at both the pump and control board, if you have 20 ohms on the heater and everything is connected ok, take a look inside the control box (without power of course), you may have a faulty controller. Also, was your's tripping the mains when getting to its heat cycle before you replaced it?

[@niallcallanan8909]

@@Dev255 Hi Neil, I had no reading from the old heater and the new didn't work, so I took it out and checked the connections nothing amiss so I put it back together and it worked for the 1st go. Then it stopped working, so I tried to see if I was getting 220 going to the heater and i don't appear to have. Do you know how to stop the program so it doesn't have to go through the whole cycle? I'm getting 19.6ohms on element, I assume that's ok.

[@Basha12b]

Hi Neil, I have the exact issue you had, the dishwasher would trip the circuit breaker and the water wouldn't get warm anymore. However I got the E04, before I start disassembly I thought I'd ask, I've seen other videos saying a relay could be an issue on the controller. Is the controller next to the pump or on the door of the dishwasher? I don't have a multimeter so would it be fair to say if the relay on the controller looks fine, the issue would be the heat pump? The machine runs ok and the water level if good.

[@mr_bananas5131]

your hands are in front of the display throughout the video ! great video

[@Dev255]

I try to show all the steps practically, glad you liked it. Thank you.

[@staplejats]

In Aus this part is $123 delivered from Bosch Aus. Up to twice the price from other parts suppliers. I find the process of inverting the unit and removing the entire base to be worth the hassle. Everything gets a clean and a going over, dishwashers being grubby roach infested machines n all. The base just kind of clipps on and off without too much drama.

[@Dev255]

Hi, that's a very good point, although haven't tried it myself. As you mentioned giving it a good clean has got to be worth it. We had a mouse in our one at some point, probably nice and warm when they are on.

[@zt7489]

@@Dev255 Just looking into this, the grey plastic base appears to be all one piece and it hold the door spring counter balance. Did your unit just clip out?

[@Dev255]

@@zt7489 Hi, there are a lot of things attached to the base on most machines, so may be a little difficult to invert and remove. Sometimes it is easier to leave the base on, pull the machine to a large space, remove all panels and lid, then you should be able to get around the machine much easier. I hope that helps

[@zt7489]

After much struggling I managed to free the lid of the control box. That allowed sufficient movement of the control box so I could get access to the pump. Thx

[@Dev255]

@@zt7489 , No worries, glad you got it sorted. They don't make it easy.

[@stufish4040]

Excellent video. Ours doesn't trip the fuse so maybe something else. It's a shame that Bosch don't build them properly in the first place. Ours is only 7 yrs old. Previous Bosch lasted 18 years!

[@Dev255]

Thank you. I think Bosch has slipped a little in production, where they use the same parts as Siemens, Neff, etc. They are all made for rapid bulk production these days, rather than well-engineered machines, unfortunately.

[@juhaeske]

Thanks!

[@Dev255]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate this 😊

[@insanlarafayda8696]

Hi, what must be resistance of the ntc pins ? Near the heater sockets.. Thanks a lot..

[@Dev255]

Hi, I haven't got one to hand to test, although thermistors normally operate from around 1k to 10k ohm,

[@jamesthompson2522]

There is a resistor from the centre pin to each outer pin. So each centre to outer measures about 11k at room temperature. If you measure across the outers you will see this in series - about 22k.

[@bostjancelan9624]

We have also replaced pump, but have another issue. Grey cables on the pump were accidently pulled from connector. Is there any solution how to put cables back in connector in right order...there are some numbers (1 to 3) on it. Thank you in advance.

[@Dev255]

Hi, the plastic shroud around the connector on the motor comes off quiet easily and then you can solder on new cables while off the machine, my machine is under the worktop now so I can't check the order of connectors. Could someone else opening their machine help with this please? Unless you have sorted it already. Hope that helps

[@algrainger]

I've mine open to fix right now if you are sill unsure. Purple wires go to white block and numbers are on motor, 1 highest up 3 lowest. The have photos of you need them.

[@M1K3L-98]

Hello, very nice video. I replace it and also i replace the heat axchanger valve and i have the same problem

[@Dev255]

Hi, thank you. You may still have a leak from somewhere into the electrics associated with these parts, it's worth looking over all the areas that could leak. Try letting it sit for a week to get it nice and dry, and then run the machine on a basic rinse so that the heater doesn't come on, then switch everything off, disconnect the machine from the mains and investigate if you have a leak. Failing that it may be the main controller board. I hope that helps and good luck

[@timbrooks2763]

Thanks, perfect !

[@Dev255]

Thank you, I hope it helped

[@timbrooks2763]

its still working :)@@Dev255

[@SMBzrocker16]

Our dishwasher was not generating any steam and thus was not flashing the sanitized light we just watched the video and replaced the heating element and so we are hoping it works again.

[@neildevonshire2434]

I hope your machine is now fixed, the heater is a fairly common fault. Thanks for watching

[@lingottodargento7711]

Ciao grazie da Italia per il video molto utile!

[@Dev255]

Prego, spero che ti abbia aiutato a riparare la tua macchina 😉

[@lingottodargento7711]

@@Dev255 Si grazie mille sono riuscito a cambiare la pompa e sostituire i fili , 150 euro, ora funziona benissimo!.

[@Dev255]

@@lingottodargento7711 prego. Sono contento che tu abbia funzionato

[@alandutch7536]

I bought a replacement heat pump after E09 error code on my Siemens, looks very very similar but not exactly the same as the old one (it was much cheaper!), and it won't heat the water either 😕 do think you need EXACTLY the same heat pump??

[@Dev255]

Hi, they should be the same pumps as long as your machine is listed in the description below this video and may well fit new machines. It's worth checking connections with a multimeter to check that the coil resistance of motor coils match your old motor and the heater element of the new unit measures very close to 20 ohms. Failing that you should have 14 days to return your item to the supplier. I hope you fix your machine.

[@neXgen78]

Hi Neil I got the E02 error, have you seen that before? We've got a unit where there is also an airdryer thingy inside (glastube blower). The washer does not heat the water and does not dry. No fuse tripping this time. It was repaired 2.5 years ago, where both these units where replaced. I had to send it in, as I gave up on getting the airdryer thing out. Any idea on what could be wrong this time? Thanks in advance

[@Dev255]

Hi, hopefully I am not a little too late in replying, we have just moved house, so playing catch up. The only things I could recommend is testing the continuity of both heater elements, you should be able to do this from the end of the wires (connected to the main board) both should read fairly low resistance from 20 ohm (12A, 2.8kW element, usually water heater) to 120 ohm(2A, 500W element, possible air heater element), if these test ok through the wire it may be a control board relay (Solid state or electromechanical), if this does not test ok you may have to test at the heating elements; this will show if the element or wires are at fault. If all looks good with these tests you may be looking at the thermostat side. I hope that helps.

[@neXgen78]

Thanks a lot for getting back. Already bought a new unit though :) But maybe it will come in handy, when that one fails. Thanks again ;)@@Dev255

[@ianstewart2643]

Super video. Well done. Can I pick your brain re a faulgvwith my Busch SMV53M00GB built in washer. It has stopped working after running a cycle with Error Code E15 and the water symbol flashing. Looking in the tray the float had been lifted up by water collecting and consequently trigger the shut off safety valve. I dried out the tray and the error code etc had gone and I was able get the machine to work, so it seems the auto shut off valve and trip switch is working perfectly. The fault would therefore appear to be a leak. I wasn’t able to see where this was coming from when I was drying the base tray so in your experience what would you suggest are the main areas or components/pipes to check for leaking. Cheers

[@Dev255]

Hi, thank you. It's fairly difficult to diagnose a leak unless you can see the machine running with all the panels off, but I would be careful running a leaking machine with covers off, not to touch the machine and to ensure you can cut the power without touching it. Although the thing id suggest is to make sure everything is seated correctly in their seals, the level sensor within the water sump/reservoir (the part your filter fits in) can get knocked out when taking the filter out, so it could be an easy fix. Other issues could be a build-up of calcium deposits on seals, especially around hot water areas such as the water heater/main pump. I hope that helps

[@ianstewart2643]

@@Dev255 Thanks for your reply and safety advice and suggestions.

[@Dev255]

@@ianstewart2643 No worries, feel free to ask if you have any further questions.

[@dashnima]

Many thanks for the detailed video. I get E10 on my Neff Zeolith dishwasher. Neither get hot water nor dishes get dried a the end of the cycle. Based on the documentation, E10 is due to Zeolith mechanisms failing. But how is that related to hot water? I kind of think maybe the error code is misleading me here. If the water is not getting heated during the wash cycle, there won't be any steam to be sucked/pumped to the Zeolith container at the end to produce drying heat either and that will kick in the moist sensor which trigger E10. I will test the heat pump first I guess, but wanted to get some opinion from the experts here as there is not much information about Zeolith Dishwashers online. Cheers

[@carmacom]

I’ve got the same fault. E10 when drying. But I tested and it doesn’t heat water either. Tested heating element and it seems fine 20 Ohm. Temp sensor about 10K 0hm in room temperature.

[@dashnima]

@@carmacom I had to replace the zeolite heater as it was physically damaged due to exposure to water(I think) for some reason, the whole process took around 5 hours!, the machine is back to life now, cheers.

[@carmacom]

@@dashnima yes I found the same thing. Weird that the Zeolite heater stops the heat element in the “heat pump” from being activated. But I read somewhere that the first cleaning cycle uses the zeolite heat and when the water temperature is high enough the heat pump takes over. I think the zeolite heater got defective because of debris from the dishes. It takes the air from the right inside of the washer and this vent/ hole is also used when the machine rinses the water storage in the right side. I ordered a replacement heater, still waiting for it.

[@Dev255]

Glad you got your dishwasher fixed @dashnima, and hope you get your part soon @carmacom. It's nice to see this video is still helping, if it did that is ;-)

[@dashnima]

@@Dev255 7 months passed a now I get and E09, is that related to heat pump? time to replace that I guess?

[@kabu6198]

Hey Neil, love the video, it's also exactly what i needed to show me how to replace the pump in my Siemens dishwasher. However, i need advice, my pump, which i bought from the UK, BUT, when i removed the old one the 3 grey wires came out of the sensor connector, so now i'm stumped to figure out which grey wire goes back to the connector, relative to the connector on the board. Any ideas how i can figure out how to make sure the wires go back in the same holes? The plug that it goes into on the board is a 5 pin, and has 2 yellow wires, positions 1, 2 and the 3 grey wires, from the pump, positions 4,5,6. cheers in advance.

[@Dev255]

Hi, thank you. I'm glad the video is helping. The grey wires go to the thermistors, there are 2 of them, and they should read around 10k ohm at 25ºC. The centre pin, I believe, is ground (but is certainly common), so you may be able to test this back to the control board on the wires to determine the centre wire. Both the other wires should read the same value to the machine's chassis, where these 2 are the outer wires. So you would end up with pin 1 - thermistor 1 sense, pin 2 - common for both thermistors and pin 3 - thermistor 2 sense. It won't matter if pin 1 and 3 wires were reversed as they rise and fall at the same rate with temperature (assuming no-fault), although if pin 1 or 3 wires were incorrectly connected to pin 2, the temperature reading would be off, and you may get no heating or heating too much with an error. I believe the pair form part of a Wien Bridge with matched pair in the control unit, although I don't have one here. I hope all that helps; please let me know if you get it fixed and good luck.

[@kabu6198]

@@Dev255 Hey Neil, Thanks or the quick reply, dishwasher was in the kitchen in bits for most of the day and morning,. However, with your help i managed to fix it (so it seems after testing). I was fortunate enough to have one of the grey wires come out of the connect with the metal clamp thingy (from the connector) still attached, so i only needed to figure out which 2 grey wires were where. Also fortunately, the one with the thingy attached was one of the sensors rather than the power one. (It was number 3 on the connector - that wire going to number 5 on my board connector - only 5 pins on board connector). So opening up the board and looking at where the grey wires went, i was able to determine that, the 'pin' with the transistor was the power controller, and so therefore the other was the 'other' sensor. So with a little bit of logic, and with your comments above, that the centre pin on the pump connector was the centre pin on the board (so that was the power connector with transistor - common) and so it fit into place. Seems fine now after a test wash, it heats up, no E09 code and stops when it should, and more importantly no leaks! Cheers!

[@Dev255]

@Ka Bu Hi, no dramas at all; I'm glad you got it fixed, it sounds like you are a true techie. Well done 👍

[@kabu6198]

@@Dev255 I am an Engineer of the design/development variety, not really Electrical Engineering though, but know enough to get myself into trouble!. Was fun. Again thanks for the tips.

[@oliviere1215]

@@Dev255 For anyone with the same issue with the grey temperature sensor wires: the center wire on the connector (common) is also the center wire on the board. The position of the 2 other ones doesn't matter

[@biker1011]

Hi Neil, After E09 error, i fitted new pump. and old were damaged . i already tested old and i am sure that was heat pump issue. Now after fitting pump, no water in dishwasher and also it is giving wired noise. so what i can do now. thank you so much.

[@Dev255]

Hi, sorry I didn't see your response until now. Have you managed to fix your machine?

[@willdudo7044]

Hi there, thank you very much for the video. Perhaps you could help with a question; I’m just checking resistance now and I measure 19.4 ohms across heating element, but then when I check on 2M (my meter doesn’t have 20M) setting I’m getting reading fluctuating around 0.300. Any idea what this might mean? I should add that what led me to this point was the machine tripping the main fuse at the same point during its cycle. I then tried the washer on a rinse only setting and it works fine, hence I thought it might be the heat pump. There was also an e09 alarm at one point, which I dealt with. Could that be linked to pump problem?Th ank you very much in advance

[@Dev255]

Hi, yes that sounds like water has got on the element and caused a leak of mains current to earth, hence the trip. Also, the heater element and earth plate underneath will setup a voltage potential if there is a liquid in between (kind of like a battery, dissimilar metals), this will throw off your meter in certain ranges. Try measuring the element after it has been off the machine for a few days, it should read ok when dry. Also, with water getting in to the element, it's a good idea to clean all around the rubber pipes that it connects to so that the new pump seals ok and it doesn't ruin the new one over time. Hope that helps.

[@willdudo7044]

@@Dev255 thank you very much. I have ordered a new pump, do you think that is necessary? Thank you so much for your help

[@Dev255]

@@willdudo7044 I think it's good practice to clean around the seals, just with a damp cloth as grit and grime can stop it from sealing and you'll see the same issue sometime later on. No dramas, happy to help

[@willdudo7044]

@@Dev255 brilliant, sorry I meant do you think I will need a new pump? Thank you

[@Dev255]

@@willdudo7044 hi, no dramas, yes it all comes as one unit, I wouldn't recommend any kind of repair either as there could be something else that is causes the part to fail

[@imaj1c]

Hello, I looked for this video after the technician I hired removed the pump and ghosted me. I want to do this by myself and seems doable following your example. One thing I still wonder is that he quoted some sealing or gasket (Dichtung E15) but I do not know for what is this.

[@quetzalcoatld9710]

How do you know that the heat pump will be ok with your dishwasher since you didn't added a part number to the spareparts website? Is every heat pump going to work the same??

[@parth_0521]

Hi , thanks for great video. when I replace heat pump. Dish washer giving wired noise. Then I stopped it. Any idea? What could be issue. I am suspecting water connection issue.

[@Dev255]

Hi, does the machine come up with any code before you stopped it? You should initially hear the drain pump switch on when it first runs a program to remove any previous wastewater, then a click and rush of water as the main water solenoid opens and water fills a chamber on the left side and the sump within the main washing area, then the main water pump should operate (this is when you should hear the arms spinning, and a rhythmic sound as the water is sprayed around at the dirty contents). Any other strange noises should not be heard, although the drain pump can sound fairly noisy if there is no water to be drained initially, as it will be running dry (this is normal). It may be worth double checking that everything is seated correctly underneath and that nothing was knocked out of place. I hope that helps.

[@parth_0521]

@Neil Devonshire - Dev255 thank you so much for reply. Yes, initially due to dry sound I got scared. But when I keep it run then all becomes normal. It is working fine. Thank you so much

[@Dev255]

@@parth_0521 That's good to hear, glad all is working well

[@MrPhiltodd]

Hi did the change out which although a bit tricky manged to get it done, however when I turn the power back on there is not power to the unit, any ideas?

[@Dev255]

Hi, I'd recommend checking everything that was touched during repair, plus the external items, such as Power cable connected correctly (this can look like it's connected although may be slightly out), the fuse in the wall switch/fused spur, RCD that feeds the socket (if testing on lone ring main), test on another ring main/socket via extension (13A one) all the connections are connected ok inside to the main circuit board. Failing all that, there is a possibility that the fuse on the main PCB has gone (if it has one, depending on the model). Hope that helps and good luck. P.S or it may just be a lose/disconnected soft power button inside the machine.

[@MrPhiltodd]

@@Dev255 Neil thanks for the reply It seems the AC power lead was not fully inserting into the white control box, bit of jiggery-pokery and got it fully in so all is ok now, thanks for the video dishwasher is back up and fully working now.

[@Dev255]

@@MrPhiltodd Glad you got it working, those power connections can be tight.

[@JohnAK72]

13:50 I believe that’s the turbidity (soil) sensor.

[@Dev255]

That makes sense as I believe it drains and refills when heavily soiled. This is an optical sensor (photodiode and phototransistor pair) that would be able to determine the opacity of the water.

[@JohnAK72]

@@Dev255 Exactly.

[@TrevAlexander]

Ok. So my lower arm doesn't move. Checked using a dirty bowl and placing arm in a fixed position. So far. 1. Replaced lower arm. It did have bits inside which I could get out..and seemed like a potential quick fix.. no joy 2. Followed your video, did resistance test on the heat pump, read less than 10 ohms .. so ordered spare, replaced no problem.. definitely getting hotter water now. Still the lower arm doesn't move. 3. You mention the controller - is that I assume the white box you remove to reach the pump. If so how to test and do you know part no..? Note. I have no error codes on my Siemens iq500 dishwasher.. which I would have thought if the controller had failed then I would have a code.. The machine operates just lower gets no water and so arm never moves.. any thoughts?

[@Dev255]

Hi, I would try a good dishwasher cleaner on a maximum temperature cycle, and if you can set your dishwasher to the lower arm wash only (normally heavy pots and pans mode) then this should focus the lower spray arm. It does sound like a blocked path before it reaches the arm and may need pulling through or could be dislodged through the cleaning cycle above. The spray arm seat should be easily accessible from inside the machine too, so this can be removed and cleaned, plus you could check the spray arm rotates in it when it's out. There should be 2 torx head screws to take out to access this. I don't believe the arm has an separate control to worry about the controller, but yes the white box that you removed to get to the pump is the main control board.

[@leighreid5480]

Diverter valve

[@videoraver]

My pump has failed after 3 months, E09 error again! Also mine came with a grey plastic clip part, no idea where that goes, inside the pump?

[@Dev255]

Hmm, maybe you have another issue too, are you getting water leaking onto the outside of the motor/heater? It may be worth you checking the front optical sensor hasn't been knocked as it's easy to do when cleaning out the space where the filter sits. I don't know of a grey plastic part for the unit, the pump and heater should come as one assembled unit. You can send me a picture of it if you like, I have a contact part on my web page here: www.dev255.uk

[@videoraver]

@@Dev255 Thanks for your quick reply! No leaking, I think the pump is faulty again. Sorry, its a blue clip, the 4th image on this site: shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/12019637-dishwasher-heat-pump

[@Dev255]

Ahh, that clip goes inside the dishwasher compartment, underneath the removable filter.

[@videoraver]

@@Dev255 Thanks, so this is an extra part, does it need to be replaced too?

[@aahanasharma4997]

Hi I have Bosch SMS69L22/55 GB dishwasher. I had check water and rinse aid lights flashing and dishwasher stopped in the middle of a wash cycle. Checked the filter hose and flow switch, they were all ok. Tested the heat pump and I am getting 20.8 ohms reading. Is this heat pump good or faulty? Thanks Raj

[@Dev255]

Hi Raj, the heater should be fine at 20.8 ohms, mine reads 20 ohms and is working well. It may be worth checking for water in the water catch tray (the bottom cover effectively), there should be a polystyrene float roughly in the middle at the bottom of the machine that rises when water gets onto this catch tray. This will operate a switch to stop the machine. Hope that helps, kind regards, Neil.

[@aahanasharma4997]

Thanks for getting back to me. There was no leak at the bottom. The reason I suspected short on heat pump is that the mains cable plug was getting hot despite dishwater not running and in error mode. There was short between positive and negative, reading 180 ohm on multimeter setting 200k. Sorry not good at units. All the other people online are pointing out the main board at the bottom is faulty when check water and rinse aid lights are flashing. After watching your video I decided to check the heat pump to rule it out. I don't think there is a way to test the main board so I may have to take a chance by replacing it. It is £120 fully programmed from Bosch. BTW when I pulled out the main board and disconnected all the cables to identify the short, it just disappeared, I mean it sorted itself and now there is no short. Thanks

[@aahanasharma4997]

Hi Neil Rechecked the main power board. Between positive and negative terminals it is open circuit on all multimeter settings except one. When multimeter is set to 2M then I get 0.436 ohm reading. As I said I know just a little about electrical and electronics. By profession I am a mechanical engineer. The main board seems to clean although one resistance is flakey. There are two electrolyte capacitors one small 16v 470 uF, which is holding the charge, the other big one is 400v 100uF, which is just going to zero on all 3 points. Do you think it is right to try the new main board even if it is a gamble or should I do something else. Please advise. Thanks Regards Raj

[@Dev255]

@@aahanasharma4997 Hi Raj, ah if it starts working again it may be because it has had time for something to dry out. If it's the circuit board, then you may have a leak near there, although this has a water channel built in to its case. if the heater fails it can allow water to get to the live element and cause an overload or short to earth, where this could trip out the earth leakage circuit breaker in your house

[@Dev255]

I just spotted your other message, the 400v 100uF should be the one just after the bridge rectifier, hence the 400v, it depends what is in the circuit with it, you mentioned 3 points on this on, although there should only be 2, plus if you are measuring resistance on the same junction as capacitors it will not measure correctly if it is charged, and may be charged up by the meter. It's hard to tell with components in circuit. If it works and then doesn't work, it's an intermittent fault and may be due to water getting in somewhere, or higher humidity causing the fault. Hard to tell without looking at the machine.

[@janvrto4822]

Where did you get new heating element from ?

[@Dev255]

Hi, just spotted your comment, I got it from e-spares, although there are cheaper alternatives on ebay apparently

[@MrBilbo44uk]

Try laser electronics on Amazon as I got one for £70 only last week .

[@russellharris]

Thanks for the video. I replaced the pump in our Neff the other day and its got unbelievably hot, when i tested it. However, it is now only getting Luke warm. Any ideas? Thanks again. Russell.

[@Dev255]

Hi, no dramas, I'm glad it helped you. I would be tempted to take a look at the element again and possibly spray some switch cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) on the connections and ensure the seals are free from scale and foreign objects. You may wish to test the element to see if it's around 20 ohms too. If it turns out to be faulty, then you should be able to return it under warranty. If it tests out ok it may be wiring or even the control board, wiring should not be too much of a problem to resolve, although the control board may be fairly pricey to keep an older machine going, although there are plenty of people getting rid of machines with other faults so you may be able to get one with a decent board, they are pretty robust. Do you get any other fault codes?

[@russellharris]

@@Dev255 thank you so much for making the time to answer my query! Massively appreciated. Ok, so its a series of unfortunate events: one error code after another! I fixed the first two errors and foolishly tipped the machine up to get a better look and flooded the base. This damaged the heater. Replaced the heater, put it on test and as i said it got mega hot. Like i couldn't believe how hot even the outside of the machine was. Always, i reinstalled it as thought all was well and then noticed the next day that the glasses weren't drying, but the water was getting warm, but not hot. I am wondering if on the first test, the thing got so hot it partially burnt out? Maybe the heater is in sections and only one section is working? Or could it be the thermostat? I will take another look and thanks for the help :)

[@Dev255]

@@russellharris Hi Russell, no dramas, happy to help if I can. The thermostat is built into the heater pump, so it's worth checking the connections there too, it should be in the 5k ohm to 100k ohm range, so it's worth checking that its not gone open or closed circuit. I would also recommend looking for water ingress into other components underneath too and possibly leaving the machine to dry out over a few weeks and see how it performs then, it might miraculously return to life when everything is dry. The heater element is one track that snakes back and forth around the circumference of the heater tube, so the only things I can think of is either a high resistance heater track (greater than 20 ohm (lower Wattage), water ingress (although this normally causes a mains trip as power leaks to earth), damage to wires, or faulty control board. I hope that helps.

[@russellharris]

@@Dev255 bizarrely, when set to a 70c wash it gets phenomenally hot! We usually use a short 30min wash, when the water only gets warm. Strange! :)

[@Dev255]

@@russellharris It sounds like it's working ok then as a 30min wash would be ok at 30ºC or so to clean lightly solid crockery, plus most detergents can now work down to 30º too, to save the energy bills. It's constant hotter washes that can cause calcium build-up and reduce the effectiveness of seals.

[@krisdas6556]

How do I fix E11 error, the heat pump terminal resistances are fine and brand new for your information

[@Dev255]

Hi, that sounds like the circuit for the thermistor, or thermistor itself, when measured this should read several k-ohms and will be part of the same unit. If it is new and you still have the same fault it may be the wiring or control board.

[@krisdas6556]

I managed to fix it, issue was lose sensor grey color wires due to broken 3 plug pin, I made a direct color instead and worked.

[@Dev255]

@@krisdas6556 Well done, glad you fixed it 👍

[@JohnnyMotel99]

I think my d/w tripped the RCD last night, but running today it didn't. I don't have a digital display on mine, so no error codes. Could I simply connect the hot water to the inlet and skip the heating element? There are these pumps on eBay for a lot less, are they copies or something?

[@Dev255]

You can run a hot feed to the dishwasher although you get a fair amount of cold water come through first before the hot gets there, so chances are the heater will come on anyway. This sounds like a classic case of water getting on the heater and drying out over night and working the next day. They may be reconditioned ones, but as long as you get a decent warranty you should be ok.

[@JohnnyMotel99]

@@Dev255 I think the elements is blown, ran at 50 and it was cold inside when it was finished. A couple of leds were on as well. Shame really, unit is only a few years old. Have to get on my hands and knees now😩

[@Dev255]

@@JohnnyMotel99 Good luck, it's not too hard when you get into it

[@JohnnyMotel99]

@@Dev255 Do you have any ideas on how to identify a model when the sticker has come off? Is there another sticker on the chassis. It's fully integrated.

[@JohnnyMotel99]

@@Dev255 are the ones on eBay refurbs? they are about 1/2 the price than eSpares!

[@carlosafonso7265]

I tried to fix mine, i have a bosh series 6 zeolite, and everything is clumped tougher inside, there not space to work on it, took me 1 hour to find a way to take the board out, to reveal the pump.😢

[@x91w]

My dishwasher is 6 years old and the heater/pump failed for a second time. I always used to repair my white goods, but now older I'll probably get a new machine as the heater pump is now £200 and the local chap wants £100 to fit. What machine would you buy in 2023? I want 24hr timer, quick wash and auto short run times.

[@Dev255]

I must admit, I do like Samsung features and design. Although expensive, the Series 11 DW60A8050FB machine has 3 shelves with the top one being for cutlery, so you can fix more in. Most machines use the same parts, but over the years Samsung engineering has been top notch in my opinion, with Bosch being a close second. It's worth looking at the Samsung website to see more features there.

[@mikele8476]

Which camera name and model you are using? thank

[@horill123]

Hello, it seems that I had this exact problem (heating element was faulty due to calcium burn or whatever it’s called) and I replaced the motor (new one measured 20 ohms) but it still wouldn’t heat. I then put the new blue heating element into the old motor, took out the wires from the white box and put them back in (I made sure to take a picture to make sure they went into the right place) and now my machine is acting really weird - it won’t start the wash and just makes water noises or humming noises, and sometimes goes silent for a while. Does anyone know what’s wrong with it?

[@adiemcc14]

Hi Thanks for the video, replaced faulty pump, but still no joy with heat. No shorts happening. Dishwasher still runs full cycle but with no heat. Flashing water tap light when finished. I did have a faulty pump as did a complete check as you described, had open circuit and new part tested good? Any suggestions before I buy new washer? Anybody want a new heat pump for a Bosch?

[@Dev255]

Hmmm, a couple of things to check. Firstly the connection for the heater at both the heater end and controller end. You could always take the lead off the controller end and measure to 20ohms through the lead, that way you are testing the connector also (at the pump end). You could also check the thermistor with your meter, this should be in the k ohm range at room temperature. I can check mine and let you know if needed. There is not really a lot else you can test without power applied. I would insist that a fully qualified technician checks the following for you: Connect an AC voltmeter to the heater output (while connected to the heater) switch on the machine (not touching the meter) and running through a program to see if the problem lies with the control board, it should show near to your local mains value when attempting to heat. Under no circumstances should any unqualified person attempt live testing (especially where water/high humidiy is present). I hope that helps

[@adiemcc14]

@@Dev255 Thanks so much for the reply. I had the same problem as another commenter with the little grey wires leading to the heat pump coming out of the connection clip. Before your reply and after I traced the correct combination back to the control box and took a punt on not getting a great connection. Striped the wires back a little and made sure all secure. All working again mainly thanks to the heads up of your video to look at the heat pump and test! You have (for now) help saved me dishing out for a new machine. Thanks for the video upload!

[@Dev255]

No dramas, happy to help, glad it's fixed

[@666dogg666]

@@Dev255 Amazingly, I seem to have experienced the same problem at the same time - I replaced the pump (it had failed - open circuit on the heater) and yet still have no heat with the new pump (except, bizzarely, on the Quick cycle, on which the heater runs for a few minutes to make the water lukewarm as opposed to cold). Relays on the board still functioning so am about to read the last rites unless someone is able to advise any way to bring my dishwasher back from the dead...🤔

[@Dev255]

@@666dogg666 hmmmm the relays may be energising, but are they making a decent connection, It may be worth spraying the contacts with switch cleaner if you can remove the caps, leaving for a while then trying again

[@JoseEarthDolera]

Thanks for this video but I think you forgot to put back the rubber holder🤭

[@tomkolodziej3786]

You can replace heating element only I guess which will be less than half price you’ve paid for whole pump .

[@mihamaker]

Shame that there is no option to order and change heating element separately. I had problem with one pump part wearing out, ordered used one complete unit from newest dishwasher by searching part numbers and comparing the date of production. Now 2years later E09 :-(. Back to dismantling. My current machine overall life in use is 13years.

[@Dev255]

Hmm, bay be an idea to clean the seals around the pump input pipe as you may be getting water seeping out to the heater element. Still a pump every 2 years is still better than a new machine I guess, unless the next new machine makes it 13 years too.

[@mihamaker]

@@Dev255 I need to see if water is leaking. Tried washing on eco program 50 C max and no fault so far. It seams that it goes to fault only on high temp. Maybe there is still life in it if take a look soon enough. Old heater did not had any problems. So if nothing will switch those and continue washing :-) need to search the garage trough the accumulated stuff for it :-)

[@Dev255]

@@mihamaker Good luck, sometimes everything dries out and there are no issues until it gets wet again, checking for leaks is the best option for intermittent machines

[@choudharyrk2404]

where is diverter motor placed??

[@Dev255]

Hi, the diverter motor should be at the rear of the machine behind the rear cover, although this machine featured here does not have one.

[@mazedaarChutkule]

why is the pump not repairable, why do we need to swap the whole part?

[@christiansson100]

Hi i thought to check if you in help me a little, My girl used dishwashing liquid instead of dishwashing tablets then There were a lot of bubbles and we got the code e15, I wiped the machine clean and it worked again without error code. After we washed with it twice, the earth fault circuit breaker went off, after about 3-4 minutes, I opened up the machine, measured the heater and I got 20 Ohm so I cleaned a few more things in the machine and then put everything back together. Now the earth fault circuit breaker does not go off but the water does not get hot at all. Do you know what could be wrong? /Christian

[@christiansson100]

?

[@Dev255]

Hi, sorry for the late reply, it can take me a while to get through all the comments. It may be the thermistor on the same device and on the same connector as this could be telling the controller that the temperature is high, so it wont switch on. You can measure the resistance of this thermistor, where it should be in the 5 to 100kohm range. If water had found its way onto the heater, it may have also reached the the thermistor too. Plus you may wish to check the cables leading to it and the connections at both ends. Please feel free to ask further questions.

[@rowanjames9026]

Has anyone replaced the element inside the heat pump? It is possible to buy them, but I cannot work out how to get it back into the tight rubber seal. Bosch.

[@cp5472]

Mine seems to read 19.7ohms, it's displaying a 04 error code and the water is not heating.. any advice? I think it tripped the electrics once and since then it never did it again but it hasn't heated the water too. I had a visual inspection of the pcb and nothing seemed burnt

[@cp5472]

Any help?

[@Dev255]

@@cp5472 Ah sorry, yes, normally a heating issue would be 09, although 04 can relate to heating and/or flow rate, I would be tempted to check all the pipes and sprayers for blockages as a matter of corse. To me, the trip would indicate a common problem with the heater element shorting to earth through a small water leak around the pump and a damaged track on the heater, especially since the resistance seems a little high too. If you take a look at the heater tracks you may be able to see a few very small blisters forming where it starts to fail.

[@cp5472]

@Neil Devonshire - Dev255 Hi Neil, many thanks for your message. I had a look at blockages and didn't find anything, the machine runs through the cycle normally but it doesn't heat up the water and shows the 04 error at the end of the cycle. It's strange as it only tripped the board once and never did it again, I think it was since it tripped the board that it stopped heating it. Should I remove the pump and take it a part and have a look inside to check for any damage?

[@Dev255]

@@cp5472 Hi, that does sound like the heater, you can take it apart to have a look, although the clip retainers may break when you take it apart, but it will still go back together. The trip normally happens when water seeps through the seal and comes into contact with the element; this causing current to leak to earth and trip the breaker. If the heater is no longer heating it has probably gone open circuit. Also, the machine may not trip again if the heater has dried out, but could pose a risk if water seeped through again. It's good to know your earth leakage breakers work, that's a nasty fault if the earth was faulty also. Please feel free to ask more questions if you decide to open it up

[@cp5472]

@Neil Devonshire - Dev255 the strange thing is that it didn't go open circuit, I still measured 19.7ohms. But yeah I'll open it up tomorrow and try not to break the tabs and see what I see

[@MathijsGroothuis]

How the hell you open the casing of the motor? I broke all 4 clips (the device is broken anyway), but still it seems to be stuck. I wanna see how burnt the heating device is.

[@Dev255]

Hi some clips can break, although should go back together and hold as it's the retainers behind the clip that breaks, although always best to replace the whole unit if you can. The test of the track using a meter is all you really need to do, I pulled mine apart to show what happened to it. They can be hard to open

[@MathijsGroothuis]

@@Dev255 i opened it, and see some broken traces. I'm wondering why I shouldn't just bridge them again, and use that for now? Only the inside from the heater is supposed to get wet right? If the whole thing would be able to get wet, then the connectors that are already exposed would be have a problem right?

[@Dev255]

@@MathijsGroothuis hi, the water is supposed to stay inside, although if water was able to get to the element or connections it may cause a fault to earth, this could be hazardous to you if you touched the machine if your earth leakage was not detected. The element has a coating on it that should prevent water contact with it, although a broken track suggests this is compromised and soldering/bridging the gap of an element will reduce its resistance and increase current flow, so could potentially be a fire hazard. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I would just recommend a replacement unit. Hope that helps

[@MathijsGroothuis]

@@Dev255 i already bought a new pump, because I couldn't find the separate heater on sale anywhere, and the solder doesn't stick to the broken traces. I'm less worried about the water issue, as the starting connections to the heating elements are exposed by default as well, as well as the connectors. But it mainly seems to hard for me to fix the broken traces. And the only sources of actually repairing the device that low level are eastern Europe in language, so a bit hard to understand.

[@Dev255]

@@MathijsGroothuis Glad you got a new one, hope you are all up and running again 👍

[@thomastyler10air]

you need to go back and fit the support bracket connecting the motor to the body as this helps with vibration

[@Dev255]

Very good spot, it also helps to prevent further leaks from that vibration ;-)

[@KingArthasI]

New pump-heating element assembly cost 125Euro...new integrated washer start from 375Euro. Track burn off just in the beginning next to pin leg, due to minor leak from pump casing gasket... Just solder it again and swing a bit the gasket during assembly, to prevent leak again. All OK.

[@Dev255]

Hi, sorry I thought I had replied. I hope the dishwasher is still serving you well.