I built my home pool heater a bit different. I used 1/4 (6mm) irrigation tubing. The feed is a 3/4 inch pipe run down the length of one sheet of plywood (8 feet). I made 33 connections into the side of the pipe to attach the tubing. The tubing sections are 17 feet (just over 4 meters) and were snaked back and forth to a 3/4" pipe on the opposite side as the outflow. I added a timed valve that allows flow every 10 minutes. The output peaks at 125 degs f (52C) and is about 3 gallons per cycle. If I cycle it through continously into itself it quickly gets to be scaldingly hot..hence I do not do that nor do I allow the water to sit without circulation for more than 15 minutes.

Hi Neil, I have the exact issue you had, the dishwasher would trip the circuit breaker and the water wouldn't get warm anymore. However I got the E04, before I start disassembly I thought I'd ask, I've seen other videos saying a relay could be an issue on the controller. Is the controller next to the pump or on the door of the dishwasher? I don't have a multimeter so would it be fair to say if the relay on the controller looks fine, the issue would be the heat pump? The machine runs ok and the water level if good.

? What if filled box with layer of of black cement would this make a storage heater if sun go in ?

In my opinion there is no suprice if you heat less ammount (84%=16l)of water faster. And compare dimensions of pipes etc

AHHLUMINUM. The USA way to say it

Know what else traps heat when the sun comes out? A pool.

I would have drilled a small hole in the chassis. To avoid air volume within the chassis to apply pressure inside the body due to temperature increase.

Any stats for the project? Like delta T?

How is the plasti dip paint holding up? I would think a high temp mat black paint would be more durable than the plastic dip varieties under high temps.

I wonder if your loosing some efficiency in the height of the side walls because it blocks a bit of light when the sun isn't directly overhead

awsome projects, i feel like you could have got a few more wraps in the center, is there a reason you didnt?

ZERO info about the most important things. Performance! Water in, water out (or glycol, whatever), delta T, aperture size et cetera... fcking waste of time.

You can replace heating element only I guess which will be less than half price you’ve paid for whole pump .

Really useful, many thanks - would not have known where to start had I not seen this

Very few of these lights are correct and legit for a WWII Jeep, however. There's only one red (normal) tail light/brake light and it should be on the driver side. The blackout drive light on the fender is the only one that operates properly. The blackout marker lights below the headlights should only glow two with dim pinpoints of light per lamp assembly. I realize these accommodations are probably to make the Jeep street legal.

One thing i noticed that will make a difference if you can put it on roof shingles or metal roof get hot better than a box on ground or stand will make a difference not sure how much

Hello, I looked for this video after the technician I hired removed the pump and ghosted me. I want to do this by myself and seems doable following your example. One thing I still wonder is that he quoted some sealing or gasket (Dichtung E15) but I do not know for what is this.

Se puede usar con agua de mar ???

Might be a better value to use aluminum tubing for cost savings and use that money for double paned glass. Glass is such a poor insulator that that’s probably the biggest weak link in the build

Don't cover the collector. It's a myth! For pool collectors where the pool water is about the same or typically lower than the roof temperature, such glazing insulation will actually prevent warm roof air from transferring to the pipes, but secondly about 10-15% of sunlight is reflected back into space by the surface of any glazing material. So you lose that much straight off the bat and then there are the potential overheating issues. Keep it simple don't glaze it, you'll get a better result.

Don't cover the collector. It's a myth! For pool collectors where the pool water is about the same or typically lower than the roof temperature, such glazing insulation will actually prevent warm roof air from transferring to the pipes, but secondly about 10-15% of sunlight is reflected back into space by the surface of any glazing material. So you lose that much straight off the bat and then there are the potential overheating issues. Keep it simple don't glaze it, you'll get a better result.

Nice video filled with good tips & trix. I'm setting up a solar powered pool heater right now and my goal is 30°C / 86°F in the pool. I'm starting with 250 meters / 820 feet of 20 mm / ¾ inch PEM hose in a flat rooftop setup. A 20V rainwater barrel pump (2,000 liters - 528 gallons / hour) will be connected directly to a solar panel, so it's a completely automatic system controlled and powered by the sun. No sun = no pump = no heating. Since I'm located at 60° latitude in the northern hemisphere, I'll guess it'll be some problems and math to solve along the way, but it'll be fun. Keep up your good work

Bosch made sure that even if you manage to remove the blue heating element, it's not possible to put it back in. The seal around it is submillimeter precision - it's just not possible to get the angle right for it to fit back in. You will have to buy a whole new pump.

...and another thanks from me too. Saved £100's. Went to the same website, but only paid £86 (inc P&P). Refitting is a little fiddly. Found it best to remove all three internal trays and incline the dishwasher at around 45 degrees and then position the pump by 'feel' - went in almost immediately. The power cable has a socket, which is part of the circuit board. As you slide the circuit board upwards, the power socket slides up too, in a locator slide. Upon re-assembly, locate the circuit board so that the power socket locates within this slider and slide it downwards. Thanks again.

So it's about the size of a 400W solar PV panel - would it be better to have that running a heat pump and giving 1.6kW of heat energy?

Nice job. ....comin' from a 71 yr old semi-retired carpenter. (we don't die, we just get hammered).

Perfect and clear instructions,helped me change over the pump today no more E11 codes. Thanks again

Hey just wondering, what if you submerged the copper coils in water? Like, obviously not in this frame because it could be damaged but wouldn't that make it absorb heat more easily?

I build it like this and mine did the exact same thing. I am thinking just normal garden hose tubing next. Any other suggestions?

I call this a fake. Getting straight cuts with a jigsaw online happens in fairytales.

How do you know that the heat pump will be ok with your dishwasher since you didn't added a part number to the spareparts website? Is every heat pump going to work the same??

Great video's thanks!! I went to your web site and tried to access your product links and It wont let me click on the amazon links. I'm thinking about making a roof top solar hot water system or adding a heat exchanger to offset my high electric bills from the electric hot water tank that I have. Do you have any interest in building a system like this? I just found you so I don't know if you have already, I'm going to check now. Thanks again for the way you explain things it is very good!! Rush

So, what were the dimensions of your collector? And your 500W power - was that power into the outflow water? I'm very interested in this - I've been thinking about making one myself and "overall efficiency" is something I'm not well calibrated on. My situation is kind of hard - I have a 19,000 gallon pool, and nothing I can reasonably build is going to heat that very fast. So I'm gathering data on how much heat my pool loses on the average night - my only real hope is that I can make SOME GAIN during the day and then not lose it all overnight, so that I can gradually build up to my target temperature. I've got a little Bluetooth temperature monitor submerged out there right now, and my daughter just headed back to college post-spring-break, so I just turned off the heater. First cool-down data coming soon.

Yeah, I've thought some about this, and in every way except pump power it seems that the faster you can move the water through the better. You're getting a fixed amount of energy into your collector, and you want it OUT into your water as fast as possible - doing it slower means more temperature rise in the collector and that means more loss to the outside.

What would be "ideal" would be to solder or braze the tubing down to the aluminum along its entire length, but wow, that would be quite a job with 75m of tubing. You used a lot of tape, though, so that's probably pretty good.

Again, smaller tubing doesn't change the heating capacity. That's set by the area of the collector. Smaller tubing puts more water close to the metal. Again, it's about getting the resistance between where the heat is first collected to the water (the "average" water) as low as possible.

The point of the aluminum is actually to provide a fast metal heat conduction path from everywhere the sun strikes to the pipe - to the WATER, which is where you want to get it to. You would still capture just as much sunlight without it, but if you just painted the wood black it would move much more slowly toward the water and you'd lose more of it to the outside. You're making the thermal resistance from "everywhere" to "water" as low as you can make it with the aluminum.

How did you measure the watts???

Good job man , i watching you from Algeria !

I think they get over-hyped, based on the videos I've watched today. It's worth keeping in mind that even at noon on a very sunny day, sunlight brings you about 1 kW for each square meter of collector area. And you won't get all of that - your system will always have some inefficiency. But you can use it as a "theoretical limit." Give the size of your pool (gallons) and how much temperature rise you want, you can figure out how long it would take a kW to do it. And if your pool is a "real" in-ground pool, you'll probably be demoralized at how much collector area you'd need to "decisively" heat it. So, if you're really interested in this stuff you should go through that calculation, just so you realize exactly how big a dragon you're trying to slay. There's a reason our gas-fired pool heaters cost a lot to run. But... "do they really work?" Of course they do - they do exactly what it is reasonable to expect of them. A well-insulated, well-sealed box with a transparent lid can get way up over 200 degrees F if you're not flowing any water through it to cool it. If you send water through there, it WILL come out warmer.

Really would like to have seen more measurements made of the panel in operation. Temp rise vs. flow rate, etc.

complex and copper has become expensive. This can be done with a roll of PVC 16 mm black garden water hose where the connectors are all the same. if you really want to do crafts z.B. Gardena Micro-Drip Verteilerrohr 50 m, ³⁄₁₆″ 1 m = o,38 cent = 18,89 / 50 m

Has anyone replaced the element inside the heat pump? It is possible to buy them, but I cannot work out how to get it back into the tight rubber seal. Bosch.

Interesting! But I wonder if there's another development to be made here. Solar PV panels work best in bright sunlight, but their efficiency drops off when they get hot. So... is there a way to use recirculating water to cool the solar PV panels, and make use of the heated water as a valuable by-product? This could be as simple as trickling water down over the panels and collecting it in a gutter at the bottom, at for starters. Then maybe fix a sheet of plastic to the underside of the panel to create a 25mm deep water reservoir...

You would see a significant temp increase by bringing the pipes no more than 6mm away from glass. I would also be using sand on my backboard before painting to reduce the risk of rays bouncing straight out the box. Try it. You will notice a big temp increase in low, weak sunshine.

Very informative hopefully it will work well

I tried to fix mine, i have a bosh series 6 zeolite, and everything is clumped tougher inside, there not space to work on it, took me 1 hour to find a way to take the board out, to reveal the pump.😢

Would like to know if the glass that looks like it has small magnifying lenses all over it would actually magnify the amount of sunlight passing through it?

Thanks for this video, one tip: don't forget to remove the 230V connector before removing the power box.....afterwards you can see it in the video, I only found out 15 minutes later....😤

Can I ask you what flow rate of a pump did you use?