How to Time your Mazdaspeed3/6 engine (step-by-step guide)

In this video, we will guide you through the process of timing a Mazdaspeed engine.
Timing your engine is an essential aspect of maintaining optimal engine performance. It involves setting the timing of the camshaft and crankshaft to ensure that the engine runs smoothly and efficiently. Failing to time your engine can lead to poor performance, misfires, and even engine damage.
In this video, we will cover the steps involved in timing a Mazdaspeed engine. We will demonstrate how to locate the timing marks on the engine, which are used to set the timing of the camshaft and crankshaft.
Next, we will show you how to adjust the camshaft timing using the adjustable cam gears. We will also explain how to adjust the timing belt tensioner to ensure that the timing belt is properly tensioned.
Finally, we will go over some tips and tricks to help you avoid common mistakes when timing your engine. We will also discuss the importance of timing your engine regularly and how to troubleshoot timing issues if they arise.
Whether you are a seasoned mechanic or a car enthusiast looking to learn more about maintaining your vehicle, this video is sure to be an informative and educational experience. So, sit back, relax, and let us guide you through the process of timing your Mazdaspeed engine.
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[@KevinDuncan-ys7zh]

One of the best videos i have watched

[@ghostz28]

THANK you for running thru this so well and fast! Very thorough! You have helped me so much!

[@MEC.LUISFVD]

The best video of timing explaining

[@Dopeink-byTonyB]

Appreciate the video. I feel a little better about doing this job. Not 100% but better than I have. I’m hoping I can save this car for a lil bit longer.

[@deebee9751]

Thank you sir for this awesome detailed video which just helped me save thousands in labor on my Mazda speed 3.

[@josenava3656]

Perfect explanation

[@autohelp6504]

A+ job on this video. Best one by far.

[@baxrok2.]

Good job. However, I think you missed showing arguably the most important, and confusing, part of the timing process. That is, bringing the flat spot on the crank up against the timing peg. Most people just don't get what's going on with the timing peg and a small error there leads to problems especially if they inadvertently turn the crank more during assembly or installation of the pulley. (You did say not to turn it counterclockwise.) Before and after final tightening of the pulley, you should verify that the crank is up against the peg with the cams locked in place. It's way easier to check it now then in the car later!

[@jmquickfix]

Forget that use your head. Especially if the motor is out of the car. Use the flywheel as a reference. Get a screw driver in piston 1. Look next to tensioner with all the parts off. There's a window where you can see the crankshaft. There is line from the casting perfectly point 12 o clock. Mark your fly wheel. Use any tooth you want. When you tighten everything back all your marks will match. If for some reason your off you can at least verify. Cams are dummy proof. You can not be a tooth over or under. The back of the cams will line up. Without specialty tool you can eyeball this. Once everything is together use you hand and squeeze your tensioner guide and timing guide together. As long as the top lines up your in time. The crankshaft pulley is what needs to line up with piston. So if piston 3 is up the timing chain is still correct as long as the cams are straight. Timing cover goes on put piston 1 up thanks to your own mark on flywheel tighten crank in position to the crankshaft sensor and torque. You can use a marker and time this engine. Your welcome. I never bought a specialty for this junk that bends valves less than 100k for no reason other carbon contamination cause these motors are junk

[@graveyardperformance]

Please refer to 7:00 in the video 😁

[@YourFavDieselTech]

I understand exactly what you’re saying from your first video where you did the timing in the car and then redid it in your 4 part video. He didn’t have to do that here because he left the timing peg in the whole time and never turned the crank counterclockwise, only clockwise so the weighted spot never had a change to back off.

[@JoseRamirez-yh2ll]

​@johnnysolano1025 exactly, nobody wants to use their logic anymore and want everyone to show 100% of steps smh

[@raquielcross5757]

Amazing video with all the details, u guys rock!

[@kevrock80s]

Excellent tutorial, thanks.

[@michaeltyang4375]

Great video! And step by step! Love the support for the speeds!

[@CuanAbrahams]

thanks buddy ....the best video by far

[@hashtagjustadad5110]

That looks like a massive job!!! Glad i saw this video.

[@carltonsproston9378]

Really good explanation and easy to follow enjoyed watching it.

[@runningon-dinosaurs1569]

what can I say ,thanks guy really appreciate this video .

[@trw_53]

thanks for this this video. this is going to help me greatly . great job !

[@LSV575]

That engine stand held on for dear life when it came to the bLancer

[@channkrp]

Great stuff

[@redawgleader]

Thank you very much for this excellent video. Quality takes time and dedication. Question: I am freaked about the whimpy looking aluminum crank locking pin failing when I torque the front pulley. I am thinking I should add the 6 mmm bolt into the pulley/front cover. I also have a crank pulley holder I can use to counter the rotating force on the pulley. Is that overkill?

[@KamaraA-f3w]

Thank you i get it

[@fernandoflores6136]

When is it applicable to thread in a bolt thru the pulley and into that threaded portion in the valve cover for tdc? Leaving a bolt in during the crank bolt torque sequence may possibly snap it ? Bout ready to finalize my vvt .

[@marcbelec6403]

If the exhaust cam is 180 off the plate still goes in, like Nick said make sure the lobes on cylinder 1 face eachother

[@GoliathCarCulture]

Ayy buddy I didn't see you tighten the oil pump sprocket bolt at all, other than finger tightening and then ended up installing cover. Hope you didn't forget to tighten it.

[@chucky2682]

Hopefully I’ll never have to do this but good info in case!

[@SirBrass]

Excellent video! I assume these exact procedures apply to the NA mzr 2.3L & 2.5L engines as well, right?

[@graveyardperformance]

Concept is the same but parts and timing tools are different

[@matthewturgeon767]

Great job I just finished Mazda 3 speed but now the car bogs and bucks like turbo wont engage? Also the starter is internment sigh 😞

[@dr_tal]

Only thing I would say is that to not have the timing tools in for the 90* turn. Need a crank pulley holder as that 90 as u can snap the timing tools

[@graveyardperformance]

@@dr_tal have done this method on 150+ engines, no issue. If your engine is at the appropriate 90°, there’s no reason for it to break.

[@pingpong9656]

Do any of the timing cover bolts require any sealant on the threads?

[@LectricLetus]

I just want to know if the chain slipping one or 2 teeth will definitively cause irrepairable damage.

[@vikijimbinaLoL]

yes

[@pFbSpecV]

Great video!!! I bought the vvt kit from you guys and at some point I plan to just pull my motor and do the vvt kit and clutch and flywheel. I think I need to buy the alignment tools tho.

[@الامل-ت2خ]

The crankshaft gear is broken and the vales is waeped for car a2012 mazda tribute car what is the reason?

[@connorgreenwood480]

Few questions, is it recommended to replace the oil pump chain and tensioner while you are there or is it not a huge deal. Also does the focus timing stuff for a 2.0 work for the timing tools or is there a small difference?

[@graveyardperformance]

Not a huge deal. I’m unsure if the timing plate works, I know they are different when comparing the two for the cams, however the pin for the crank is the same. Typically, we do not replace the tensioner or chain for the oil pump unless there is a visible failure to the oil pump tensioner

[@modeljetjuggernaut4864]

If u dont replace the oil pump chain, you should at least replace the diamond friction washer on the oil pump sprocket on the crankshaft side.

[@redneck048]

Just sharing a thought here, so no haters please. Every video i watch says to make sure the crank sensor is at pin number X, this video is number 20 and another video is number 5 (one factory and one aftermarket by the looks). My way of thinking, there is no way to change what pin is at the sensor. The camshafts are held in place as is the crank at tdc and the balancer being held in position with guide bolt that goes though the balancer and into the timing cover. The crank sensor has very little adjustment and should only have a single pin that is in range of the sensor, and you should just need to line up that pin with the adjustment of the crank sensor. Am i just confused or am i just missing something?

[@GoliathCarCulture]

I did what he said and my 20th tooth does not line up with the sensor at all, mine would be the 21st tooth

[@Chr0nicPvP]

What happens if you turn it a bunch counter-clockwise? Edit: I mean not when anything is locked, just when engine is car and you decide to turn the crank counter-clockwise. I accidentally did and want to know if I damaged anything or loosened something

[@graveyardperformance]

@@Chr0nicPvP the crank needs to stay at TDC with the cams until the crank pulley is installed

[@Sleepin6]

Do you need to spin the chain around a couple times before you tighten the cams down for even tension?

[@graveyardperformance]

No, as the chain has different tension at different portions of the stroke cycle.

[@BIGHERMZ]

god the video i needed XD

[@enchantedape8180]

Fantastic video! Not sure if i missed this but does the vvt have a specific orientation on the cam?? As i know there are oil galleries for the vvt. If so are there any alignment marks or things to set that orientation? Ive read alot on both sides of the argument. Looking forward to doing my timing. I just purchased this kit.

[@graveyardperformance]

No alignment marks, we’ve lined some up, others we haven’t, never seen a difference as the camshaft washer covers them anyways

[@enchantedape8180]

@@graveyardperformance awesome 👌 thanks for the quick reply! Great point about them being covered. I thought there were some oil galleries on the inside diameter off the vvt and on the outside of the camshaft (where they insert into each other). Nevertheless I trust your knowledge! Please keep the content coming.

[@zakura70jr]

Ayo that engine stand was holding on for dear life... i though the motor was gonna snap off... when i first did my timing i had my old vvt and timing set so i reused the crank bolt and friction washers and she held for another 10k + miles and a lot of abuse. But only do this at your own discretion

[@ironsmithy6487]

How did you stop the engine from turning over while you were torquing the harmonic balancer?

[@graveyardperformance]

We keep the timing pin in the block. You can also shave a transmission bolt down as well if you’re concerned about failure of the aluminum pin.

[@modeljetjuggernaut4864]

I also heard when u do the 90 degree thing, that much tension will shear the bolt off. You gotta have good samaritan to hold the cam lobes with big monkey wrenches to make that final torque.

[@pingpong9656]

I just installed new pistons on same engine - are the new piston rings meant to make a slight scraping noise when crank is turned by hand? Crank turns over easily, but I was expecting no sound and totally smooth movement... is this normal? Sure would put my mind at ease... I did pull the piston out to make sure I did not damage rings or wall, and it was all good, but when I reinstalled and turned crank over by hand, the same subtle scraping noise from the piston was there...

[@addpsi]

You will want to mic your cylinder walls to determine the piston-to-wall clearance which in turn should allow you to calculate the ideal piston ring gap. Make sure the piston rings are gapped appropriately, if you are unsure, we highly suggest to bring to a machine shop or engine building shop.

[@parolesgravees]

Thank you for the video! do you think it is the same process for the 1.6 liter engine ? And where can I buy the pin and the timing tool to stop the camshaft and the crank ? thanks

[@graveyardperformance]

For a NB Miata?

[@parolesgravees]

@@graveyardperformance actually no for a mazda 3 gen 1 (I'm in France) after some research i found that i have only one camshat, it's a little engine compares to yours. I'm not sure you have this type of engine in US

[@graveyardperformance]

Unfortunately we do not have that engine here so I’m unsure

[@parolesgravees]

@@graveyardperformance ok nevermind , thank you for the answer

[@vilhelmarnros9367]

I seem to face a problem that I would appreciate some information about. I put in the tdc bolt to stop at tdc, but now I can’t seem to get it out. When I start turning the bolt counter-clock wise to get it out, I just hear a metallic click and it stops being able to screw out. What have I done wrong?

[@mortysmith5556]

I hope you figured it out without issue. But it sounds like you started to strip it. Only one way to find out!!

[@pingpong9656]

Is there not a better way doing the last 90 - that looked like you bent the engine stand quite severely.... engine sit at complete lower angle after.

[@graveyardperformance]

Given the engine is typically in a car when doing this, you won’t have that problem

[@pingpong9656]

@@graveyardperformance Mine is on a stand right now - ready for pulley torque - I'm thinking it maybe better to take it off the stand and put on floor - mount the flywheel, lock it and then torque against engine itself... My mount is on transmission side, so it would not tolerate that at all!

[@christophercates5257]

This is the 2.3 DISI in the CX-7 right? How much is the kit?

[@graveyardperformance]

Yes, same kit engine and kit! www.graveyardperformance.com/products/oem-mazdaspeed-vvt-kit?_pos=1&_sid=e95276d30&_ss=r&variant=31950799339578

[@pingpong9656]

How do you align the balance shaft, when timing the engine? do the marks point down or up on the balance shaft?

[@modeljetjuggernaut4864]

The bottom hole on the crankshaft pulley should align with the hole on the timing cover. The timing pin on side of engine should be up against the cam lobe. The cams should be slotted to the timing plate on top of engine. Thats how you know the enine is at top dead center. This is where the crankshaft bolt should be torqued down.

[@pingpong9656]

@@modeljetjuggernaut4864 Yes, but there is also a balance shaft (not harmonic balancer) that is also attached to the crankshaft that must be aligned to the rest of the timing components... it offsets vibrations.

[@Mazzy3-OG]

Is this the same engine as the 2.3 in the first gen, I got a hatchback 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 was hoping this was the video for that LOL

[@graveyardperformance]

THis is not

[@Elnenezx12r02]

This is the same timing as the 2007 Mazda CX7? Looks like the same motor

[@graveyardperformance]

For turbo models yes

[@Elnenezx12r02]

@graveyardperformance Awesome, Turbo went out on my wife's CX7 and the valves are gunked with oil I am replacing the turbo, both catalytic converters, o2 sensors, most likely will be replacing the valves instead of cleaning them. Installing new timing kit with head gasket kit 😮‍💨 After this I will never do this again This is a mission 😅 Love your video and the step by step 💕 Thank you so much!

[@Focusonme99]

hey have a question are you able to put camshafts from a 2.3l mustang in a 2.3l mazda speed3 seines they are pretty simler

[@graveyardperformance]

Not to our knowledge

[@D.Ghost92]

P0016, what gives? All the timing tools are on point 😢

[@graveyardperformance]

That is a tough one to track down. Could be a variety of seals leaking, clogged filters in the head, low oil pressure, failed oil control valve, or failed sensor

[@D.Ghost92]

@@graveyardperformance True! Is it possible that cam slightly shifted and create chain slack?

[@stealth7640]

Do you need the Mazda tool when timing the crank position sensor? Or just lining up the hole to the threads is top dead center?

[@baxrok2.]

With the screw through the pulley and into the cover, that puts the pulley at TDC. You then align the sensor with the appropriate tooth.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

You'll want to check the alignment of the crankpulley also, while you're down then, if you haven't already or don't know who last did that part. If you know it's still factory original, then no issue... but, I would do it anyway. So, yes, you need that crank peg (aka timing tool).

[@baxrok2.]

@@copperkeyracing6167 Good point! Without the timing peg in (unless you put the #1 piston at TDC by hand) you have no idea if the crank is at TDC even with the pulley timed right. For the best possible outcome, you need all three items set properly: cams, crank, and pulley.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

@@baxrok2. I have a customer that seems to be getting robbed of a ton of power (20-40hp)... everything seems perfect. Timing is obviously correct, idle is good, no carbon buildup, no codes, runs strong but not as strong as it should with full boltons. So, in this customers case, no need for the cam tools, just the crank peg to check the pulley alignment, and then aligning the crank sensor with the m6 through the pulley, and counting the 20 teeth. Point is, you don't always need the cam tool, if you feel the timing chain is correct.

[@korhnllams898]

Where do I get the kit

[@graveyardperformance]

www.graveyardperformance.com/products/oem-mazdaspeed-vvt-kit?_pos=1&_sid=746c62502&_ss=r&variant=31950799339578

[@korhnllams898]

I a not sure if it is a gen 1 but it's a 2009 Bk5P-337723

[@kaybeatz647]

What holds crank in place while you torque pulley

[@baxrok2.]

You're supposed to hold it with a pulley holder and you can keep the screw in the pulley but you have to be careful as it might break.

[@asbelfernandez3598]

I was just wondering who started saying we're going to go ahead , I know Martin Lawrence started my bad , a lot of these automotive videos say we're going to go ahead and, now we're going to go ahead and, and now.... We're going to go ahead and 😂 good video though .

[@pingpong9656]

Is the new actuator locked in the correct position from the factory for install? Is there any risk it is in the retarded or advance position?

[@graveyardperformance]

No specific way it is set, it will be locked in a 0 position at install no matter its orientation. Advance and retard is adjusted via oil pressure.

[@pingpong9656]

@@graveyardperformance Appreciate that - I was just wondering that without oil pressure the rotor would just be free to be in any position it likes... without the oil, does 0 position come form the internal locking pin locking the rotor? I just want to do this job once, so really want to cross the Ts and dot the Is :)

[@graveyardperformance]

@@pingpong9656 installer has no control over position unless the cam is degreed. It is locked at TDC regardless of orientation until actuated by the oil control valve

[@willlong4258]

Imma just dremel some timing marks in fr

[@jmquickfix]

Diamond washers breaking?? Nah

[@cabito1223]

I think I will pay a mechanic

[@AfolayanSarafadeen-w8t]

Can you employ me to your company pls

[@x-movieclips]

what position does the vvt cam need to be in?

[@sonnybaker4097]

Everything is new so why is dude wearing gloves smh😂

[@_yungoz1520]

Oils from your hands create hot spots

[@freddieromero1836]

No keyed crank. Booo