Controversial Nutrition & Climbing Tactics, Explained | Hype vs Reality

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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
➡️Category 1: Nutrition
00:18 Creatine
03:11 Diet Tracking
07:33 BCAA Supplements
08:28 Collagen Supplements
10:07 Animal Protein vs Plant Protein
11:57 Why We Can Make These Videos for Free :)
➡️Category 2: Recovery
13:12 Deload Phases
15:34 Avoiding Downclimbing
18:05 Ice Baths & Cold Showers
➡️Category 3: Climbing
18:44 High-Angle Crimping
20:45 Ending Climbing Sessions "Before Fatigue"
23:08 Warming Up
25:05 Moonboarding
26:01 Board Climbing / Spray Walls
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 135
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
videezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

(Timestamps below!) Update 8/8/2024: Based on several comments, there seems to be some significant confusion/misinformation floating around about creatine. We encourage anyone that’s interested to browse this article as it will clear up a lot of questions: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5469049/ We got so many great topic submissions from you all that we're working on Part 2 right now! Will Dan get his signs right this time? Subscribe to find out! (And follow us on IG @hoopersbetaofficial if you'd like to participate in future videos.) 😋 Huge thanks to Thrive Market for sponsoring this video! Visit thrivemarket.com/HoopersBeta to get 30% Off Your First Thrive Market Order AND a Free Gift Worth up to $60! ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro ➡Category 1: Nutrition 00:18 Creatine 03:11 Diet Tracking 07:33 BCAA Supplements 08:28 Collagen Supplements 10:07 Animal Protein vs Plant Protein 11:57 Why We Can Make These Videos for Free :) ➡Category 2: Recovery 13:12 Deload Phases 15:34 Avoiding Downclimbing 18:05 Ice Baths & Cold Showers ➡Category 3: Climbing 18:44 High-Angle Crimping 20:45 Ending Climbing Sessions "Before Fatigue" 23:08 Warming Up 25:05 Moonboarding 26:01 Board Climbing / Spray Walls

[@ThriveMarket]

💚

[@lacklustremedia9192]

would love a “popular boards merits and best uses” video. maybe comparing, kilter, moon, tension, spray and then maybe some newer (or more recently popular) boards like grasshopper and decoy

[@HoopersBeta]

Great suggestion!!

[@MSHNKTRL]

@@HoopersBeta try to get some sponsorship, though!

[@jeremiahjahn]

As a follow up to this, I'd be curious what you all look for in a good spray wall.

[@MSHNKTRL]

@@jeremiahjahn Tension's got a good idea, mixing wood and plastic varieties of holds.

[@JesseLira]

Also maybe what to try if your local gyms don't have spray walls, but want to do spray wall-esk climbs?

[@tjrpiwingert188]

I find hip mobility is underrated in climbing. I'm relatively new to climbing, but focusing on hip mobility/position helps take pressure off my arms/shoulders, improves my footwork/balance/reach, and helps me find more restful positions on pumpy routes. I've also noticed reduced hip mobility impacts how older climbers approach climbs. I'd really appreciate a whole video on hip mobility and strength training. Thank you for the informative videos!

[@HoopersBeta]

We actually made a full-length video on hip mobility a while back titled something like "the most underrated climbing skill" haha so we are in agreement on that! You mind find that video interesting/useful. -Emile

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

As an old person who throws some incredibly high heels I am offended by this post.

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

As a psychologist, I'm very impressed by the accuracy in information and care I see put in sensible topics like eating disorders. Very cool and informational video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you; much appreciated!

[@drstrangelove85]

Looking at Alex Megos' performance and considering that he's a vegan, I guess this sets the bar pretty high how well you can perform without animal products. I think the video is very fair: You can take animal products but if you know what you are doing, you don't need them.

[@La0bouchere]

True but he probably uses PED's

[@danielbeall7725]

@@La0bouchereC’mon now 🙄

[@alexgalays910]

It's amazing how this channel is still very relevant and awesome after so many videos. Dan + Hooper best couple.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind words of support! It's our goal to constantly be improving so that's good to hear! It's really a trifecta though. Emile is a core part of our success! Not just with editing the videos, but editing scripts, organizing thoughts, coming up with ideas, and making sure what we want to say is relevant and understood by everyone!

[@paulgaras2606]

I’m glad to hear someone finally giving a solid critique of the moonboard.

[@thenayancat8802]

On the topic of downclimbing, the biggest issue for me is that it can really exacerbate knee problems. More downclimb jugs please! Especially for boulders that finish at the top of a tall wall

[@thewateringwiz7118]

Thanks for the video ! Tons of very good info !

[@IzzyIkigai]

For me basically nutritional tracking started to become too much work when I also started to care about buying fresh foods and cooking myself instead of buying industry products full of crap that makes me feel bad. And honestly, the best I've felt about myself, my mental health and my progress was when I started to learn how to listening to my body instead of dieticians and just ate what I craved. And I've seen many a climber and especially boulderer go through the same thing because the whole "don't do this if you have a history of disordered eating" applies to way too many of us after we told people for decades that you gotta be lighter to climb harder, essentially gaslighting a whole group of people into being constantly RED-S and at least mildly anorexic. See for that also the German national team's doctor talking about the insane amount of climbers in RED-S in the high-level competitive range and how he makes a point that basically something like (iirc) 2 years of that kind of disordered eating and it might already become a permanent psychological issue with very real, very chronic physiological issues..

[@AxelKenji]

Great content! Thanks a lot guys, keep up the good work

[@eurekaflows]

I realize this is beyond the scope of this channel, but I'd love to see Dan put up a video about tips & tricks when setting a board/home spray wall. From personal experience with my home wall, it's definitely much more than just "put a bunch of holds randomly, and set around it".

[@HoopersBeta]

Absolutely! Putting up a *good* spray wall / home wall is an extremely underrated skill that doesn't get talked about much. I will try to convince Dan to make a video about it ;) -Emile

[@AB-fh9zh]

@@HoopersBeta That would be great!

[@boulderingace7952]

Ooooh I’ve been waiting for this one!!!!!

[@christineabercrombie1697]

The subtitles BLUFs are super helpful!

[@denislantsman7254]

Suggestions for future under/overrated: - online strength assessments (you take measurements, submit it to a site, they tell you where you are wrt. other people who climb your grade). - online pre-packaged plans, like the crimpd app or the powercompany "proven" plans (that do not come with coaching). - rice buckets - "trying hard" / "to the death" / etc... as a key to getting good at climbing (as in, an oft-repeated line in a lot of climbing media is that the pros just try much harder than everyone else. This being a factor vs. genes & access to facilities, coaching, etc...) Also, the recent nugget episode about critical force seemed to be difficult to reconcile with a lot of advice one typically gets (critical force as useful for boulderers, the only way to get critical force being massive amounts of volume). So it would be interesting to hear your thoughts about - developing critical force and its usefulness on one hand, vs. "junk volume" and fatigue management on the other. At least for us non-pros who can't spend that much time at the gym.

[@danielbeall7725]

We’ll keep that in mind, thanks!

[@alexpdream677]

Thank you! Awesome format 👍

[@JesseLira]

Great video, love all the well explained breakdowns.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@eineperson3496]

suggestion: tight shoes

[@snake_plant]

Agreed - definitely an interesting debate between "increased sensitivity" and nerve damage/injury/numbness. And downturned shoes too. I think slightly downturned shoes have their place on overhangs but so many make smearing and standing upright on holds unbearable. But I'm part of the flat shoe crew so biased!

[@snake_plant]

@@juliusarneberg7592 thats a factor although I find outside of extremely soft, well-broken-in downturns (debatable if they can be classed as downturned by that point) I can always smear better in flat shoes even with thick stiffer (XS Edge, RH etc) rubbers. The shape gives a nicer amount of surface area and the angle means less pressure through the knuckle when flexed.

[@samdunkksu2b129]

I think body composition is a great one. I’ve seen some really bulky muscular, or just generally heavier people pull off some fairly technical beta and pull through some fairly hard crimps and holds

[@danieldangelo6166]

Thank you for having a reasonably, healthy conversation about the benefits of diet tracking.

[@nathanyoung3483]

After stretching, I like to warm up by climbing easier climbs with different types of holds. It really helps me go into the harder climbs

[@justinjakimiak1998]

Your editor is killing the game y'all

[@TheDeltaStation]

Hey Hooper, love your videos and have recently been looking into the climbers hunch and nerve entrapment videos. Do you think poor scapular and upper back mobility could cause issues in the forearm flexor group? There doesnt seem to be a direct link in your videos however I suspect that there is?

[@Michael_Schmatzberger]

great video, thanks!

[@oldi6btm6t9d4]

Great video!

[@simonrobbins815]

Really looking forward to a video on "deload weeks" and "accumulated fatigue".

[@Quilt82]

I would really like to hear your opinions on rowing as a climbing adjacent activity or as a warm-up before climbing.

[@HoopersBeta]

Like a rowing machine? It’s fine as a partial warmup, but that’s about it. Definitely not a great training tool for most climbers IMO. -Emile

[@jonkrause6714]

Great video and this video is under rated. 🤘Enjoyed the commentary. Funny memes/snips 🤣 Things I know work for me: creatine, eat what ever I want in moderation combined with fasting (all diets are a farse-we lost sight of how and where food is made: hence all the chemical toxicity and diseases), simple 2-3 minute warm-up with knees over toes related, taking days off from all activities 1-2 days/week (primary climb, down hill skateboarding and weight training (former natural body builder).

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed the video :) thanks for the kind words!

[@GuyLNelson]

Incredibly informative video, thanks a ton!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad to be of service :)

[@georgealexanderp]

PhysAdvantage is real triggered by this vid. Also Emile is killing it with the edits. So funny.

[@HoopersBeta]

Ayee glad you enjoyed it!! :) -Emile

[@masterpropper2485]

I hope you deliberately misspelled that brand name there 😆 . . . They must not be good friends with Eric 😂 On the other hand, good friends can tell each other the truth, right?

[@alexgalays910]

Worst study I've ever read, dumb protocol clearly to serve the needs of a salesman.

[@fliksn]

​@@alexgalays910 Dude where is the study? what are you mad abt. Honestly wdym salesman? Tell me a section in the vid where they sold. You something.

[@ArtZ00]

​@@fliksnI think they mean that one study from that one collagen company for climbers

[@Jivewired]

Thanks for the great video! Request for this in either comments or if you guys do another round: training targeting different energy systems

[@AveEndGermany]

For warm ups the "gimme kraft" books had some good ideas. like climing cery low grades and try to touch the wall with your same side hip on every step up or trying to reach the next hold with your foot first before you're allowed to touch it. Also matching all grips or footholds on the way up is a good way to warm up and have a little bit of technique training. Funnily climbing up and down as a warm up on easy grades also made it in my routine as it also improves precision on holds and footsteps while climbing

[@danielbeall7725]

Good recommendation! The gimme Kraft books are great, and I’m a big fan of downclimbing :) Fun warm up “game” recommendations. I’m not sure they make it quite to the level of technique drills, but they do encourage varied and conscientious climbing, which is never bad!

[@timonix2]

I heard a rule of thumb for warmups as 1 minute of warmup for each age above 20. 20 year olds don't need warmup at all, while a 40 year old probably should warm up for 20 minutes and a 60 year old for 40 minutes. As what counts as warmup I would say anything that's aerobic. If that's doing laps on the wall or jumping rope that's all the same

[@jakobbauz]

23:04 "Don't do super intense stuff when you can't maintain acceptable form." Not that I know a lot or anything, but this sentence is what every passionate climber should get tattooed on their foreheads.

[@GourmetBurrito]

I think more than anything, doing my warms up with a focus on the muscle groups that I know I have to engage for a couple of the climbs I want to try that day have helped a lot prime me to make sure that's what I'm doing when I get on the wall.

[@bengallegos4961]

I have a back injury so a few months ago I started downclimbing almost every boulder (V5 and under.. can’t downclimb my limit) and trying to recreate body positions on the way down. My body awareness and stamina has gone through the roof, I have a way better understanding of where my limit is and falling is much more of a choice than something that inherently goes with the problem, again as long as it’s under my limit difficulty… and not slab. My goal is just increased strength and skill no comp climbing but the downclimbing has been huge.

[@__tasp__]

A video on spray wall setting would be amazing.

[@ebell3]

To add to that suggestion - specifically discussing how to read a spray wall to create your own sequences for different training styles would be appreciated. I feel like for me at least, I spend a lot of time creating problems on the spray wall that I have no idea if I'm actually utilizing it in the "best" way or getting the most out of it vs. doing set problems on a Kilter or Tension board. Thank you!

[@johanrodriguez7692]

@TomOHalloranAus has some really good videos about his home spray wall, how he uses it, and how he sets climbs

[@ebell3]

@@johanrodriguez7692 Thanks for the suggestion! I'll check out his channel.

[@apfiffner]

Can you clarify the collagen point a bit? Most climbers I know don't take it as a traditional protein supplement, they take it before climbing as it supposedly can help deliver the right AAs to connective tissue (which would hypothetically be in addition to the correct daily amount of protein from regular food). Are you saying it doesn't do that, or other basic protein supplements do that just as well? Most people are running off the info/studies shared on a lot of the climbing podcasts and youtube videos, but that's it. Your old video says it may or may not help, but isn't disproven. This seems to be saying your opinion has changed since then, but wanted to clarify. If you're just saying collagen isn't a good standalone protein supplement maybe I am overanalyzing it.

[@shokland]

Well you guys definitely aren’t afraid of controversy 😂 Directly from eating moderation to a meme featuring Woody Allen. I stand I awe. Nice, informative and nuanced video by the way 😊

[@giavannipicarelli5891]

that was a great video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!

[@Marks97]

I hav been practicing sports for 4 years now at an intense pace and train at the gym for 6 months.. 1kg of weight gain. I'm looking forward to check on my diet and eat more even if I'm quite an eater but feeling full stomach is not a big index of how much is the kcal intake 😅 love the content always informed and on point, learned a lot from you guys thanks!

[@Sam.Cordaro]

Will you talk about antihydral, and perhaps general skin care in the next episode? Thanks! Loved this video

[@HoopersBeta]

I'm not sure I'm the absolute expert on skin care, there are certainly more well-qualified providers than myself in that arena. But I will say that it's really important to make an individual decision. One person may need an antihydral and the next may have such dry skin they need to moisturize before climbing.

[@MiguelClimbs]

Dang Emile, I used that same song for my intro this week as well! 😂 When's your Artlist sponsorship coming?

[@HoopersBeta]

😂 Artlist, hit me up!!

[@4c107]

The only good thing about BCAA's is that you can throw it in a water bottle with electrolytes. If I expect to do something that's going to really beat me up I might throw in a scoop to drink during the activity and then do real protein after, but at $2 for 10grams it's such a poor value that I almost never use it and I probably won't buy more when I run out.

[@neilkurowski4991]

If you’re looking for a more watery/sports drinky protein there’s some pretty good flavored whey isolates out there. Still more expensive than regular whey, but definitely cheaper than bcaas

[@PaulKentSkates]

Collagen supplementation is not for muscle. It's to help reduce the disorganization of collagen (in your body). This is a crazy response for this subject to me as someone that helps people work through tendonosis. I'd say underrated, because people have no idea how to use it and thus seem to think it will help with skeletal muscle. It's an easy way to ingest glycine, proline and hydroxyproline.

[@dr.monkey8385]

thoughts on suplementing withchondroitin/glucosamine and msm for joint health in climbers? especially those with chronic injuries

[@zack.projects]

I’d be interested in you covering HMB + Beta Alanine? What are your opinions on these considering the scientific evidence (if any)?

[@IanAgrimis]

Dog high fives? Under rated!!!!!!

[@MsAnalize]

It would be great to hear about most common traumas, apart from a2 pulley. For example few girl climbers have been saying they have romboids pain, i had trouble finding information if i should strech it or strengthen, or rest? Or then several climbers i met had scar tissue in finger tendon which has friction when bending and extending but cause no pain, or synovitis in joints.

[@danf8986]

Great video! I did not know anyone overdid warming up in the climbing community. I warmup for about 7-8 minutes. I do disagree about using ice. I have noticed massive difference in recovery. When I ice my hands after a climb, the next morning there’s significantly less aches and pain. If I go to bed without icing my hands, I’ll be in more pain.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! But to be clear: icing your fingers and taking ice baths ("cold immersion") are very different things. We were not discussing icing fingers. -Emile

[@danf8986]

@@HoopersBeta you know, that is fair. After I sent my reply I was like “they weren’t talking about icing fingers.” Whoops 😬

[@mahmoodem2849]

please also do one on "heavy weight lifting" and its impact on climbing (good or bad or neither)

[@Hopesfallout]

Yout gotta be more precise than that. Do you mean "heavy weight lifting" as in powerlifting? Or do you mean targeted accessory/antagonist workouts with weights specifically for climbing? They've talked about either plenty of times before. Answer? Largely depends. Just two extremes: Lots of advanced climbers don't do any of it because the stimulus they get from training is so universal they don't really need additional weight lifting to stay fit and healthy. The other end of the spectrum are people in their 20/30s who've never done a sport before, can't do a single pull-up/push-up, work a desk job, who need additional training to become strong and healthy in general.

[@jacksonshelby2460]

Most people just rage till they can’t anymore lmao

[@KevinAquino-gw8qt]

What about saunas?

[@WRCStudio]

Would really enjoy a video on how to use a load cell like the tindeq as a training, rehab, and auto-regulation tool

[@HoopersBeta]

Great suggestion; not sure why we hadn’t thought of that.

[@snefansson]

I think why people put the Moon Board on a pedestal over a spray wall is accessibility. Moon board I go up and open app, search for grade, try hard. With a spray wall it feels like, at least for me, you need a LOT of experience to get something good out of it. I sure as heck can't "build" a good route on my own, even if I know what I need to train. It would be very good to have a video on this subject. I can't find any that are for people who don't know how to start. Out of all the climbing gyms I've been to over the years I don't think I've seen a single moderate level climber on one, it's always only the climbers that already are really good. Feels like a very difficult video to make though.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah that would be a really interesting video but also pretty niche. I agree, one of the huge benefits of something like a MoonBoard is that you could set a climb in California, and have your friend in the UK try it out. Very fun in that sense. And yes, spray walls can be a bit more challenging upon first approach. I had a similar feeling when they first put the spray wall in at The Wall. I thought "pfft, I won't use this, I like that I don't need to create my own climbs" but the reality is I now drastically prefer the spray wall over the MB. It's fun creating climbs. You can do the same move off of two pinches and use a good foot to make it somewhat easier, and then choose to use a worse foot to make it significantly harder. And, you usually want to record yourself, or take notes, to remember your climbs.... which serves a dual purpose because now you are recording and watching yourself so you can see what you're doing well and what you aren't. Sorry for the long response! But thanks for the share.

[@snefansson]

@@HoopersBeta That was a very informative wall of text that! Thanks I might start the journey to figure it out

[@Barnaberz]

Could you elaborate on the plus/down sides of cold showers? When I started climbing, I developed pain in my shoulders and I found cold showers very relieving and potentially helpful with recovery. Thanks!

[@danielbeall7725]

If you feel like it’s helping, I wouldn’t worry about it at all! Main “concern” with ice baths relative to sports is that it can blunt hypertrophy, and potentially other adaptations from strength training. Shouldn’t be an issue with cold showers. There’s a lot of interesting, research being done on cold therapy as a whole, but it’s way beyond the scope of this vid I’m afraid. A lot of it is related to other health effects though, not specifically sports / strength related.

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

I am 100% in agreement about spray walls, but unfortunately my gym does not have one, (and the only gym in the entire city that does is bad) and so the Moonboard is the only option I have.

[@georgealexanderp]

I'd like to see a dedicated vid on how to set a spray wall.

[@bookofcopper6326]

@@georgealexanderpif you want one now, adam ondra has one kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGiokI1umrZ5mK8

[@matejnovosad9152]

our gym has a great spraywall but I am too weak for it still

[@hidden_sense9839]

@@georgealexanderp Adam Ondra did a lengthy video just about that. You should go check it out, it is quite informative!

[@matejnovosad9152]

@@georgealexanderp adam ondra has one

[@Foxheart]

Not sure if this video is still monitored, but for diet tracking, how do you recommend quantifiying climbing? I'm a bit overweight and have gotten sucked into climbing and want to lose weight, but it seems impossible to estimate how many calories I'm burning through each session

[@adrienl4949]

For the warm up, i tried to experiment few times, and i definetely feel better lightly loading fingers on a hangboard until i can pull at max intensity. This makes my warm-up around 30-45min long, which is a lot, but I made great gains with this approach and i feel a lot better ! Last thing, i also eat before going to the gym now, and it was also a game changer 😊

[@HoopersBeta]

A good hangboard warm-up is my method of choice as well! In fact, I often do a variation of Dan’s “Mixed Hangs” protocol as a warm up because it’s so simple and versatile (and fun to play on different holds!). Glad you found something that works for you! -Emile

[@shanephillips4417]

came for the science, stayed for the goodest boi

[@HoopersBeta]

The high five was on the first take too. Crushed it! :)

[@oleshikaru]

great video, but the thumbs up was for the dog this time.

[@HoopersBeta]

Fair, valid, and well said ;)

[@stargazerbird]

Gastric upset from Creatine is real. I was only taking a low maintenance dose and had awful burping all day. I had to stop it and it took days to get back to normal. Not for everyone

[@VolodymyrBarna]

What's the effect of creatine on endurance? Both aerobic and anaerobic endurance. Some people report getting more "pumped" when using creatine hence failing to finish a route. Since I'm a route climber do you think I should take creatine? Are the any studies to support this claim?

[@joolsgrommers1466]

How about 'Block periodisation'? Especially for weekend warriors, or pure gym climbers, what's the point of blocks over DUP?

[@GumbyLikeMe]

BFR!

[@LSDerek]

ever since I started taking collagen supplements the skin on my fingertips has gotten tougher and recovers quicker.

[@petergbeal]

Nice one guys. One of the problems with proper spray wall setting is acquiring enough OG holds for small crimp problems. Newer shapes seem to avoid this style.

[@danielbeall7725]

100%

[@joolsgrommers1466]

Plenty of wooden hold manufacturers out there. Beastmaker, Hard Wood Hold, Silly Goat etc etc. Ratty crimps in between all the big volumes..

[@Josh653]

Regarding creatine, is there any merit to the claims/risks with hair loss? that's the only reason I haven't jumped on creatine! I think there was one study where it concluded an increase in hair loss.

[@HoopersBeta]

That one study had nothing to do with hair loss, and the DHT measurements in the study that made people think hair loss could be an issue do not appear to actually be relevant to how hair loss works. With current evidence (and our understanding of the mechanisms of hair loss), the answer is “almost certainly does not cause hair loss.” :) -Emile

[@Josh653]

@@HoopersBeta Thank you!

[@mongoose1804]

Eric Horst on ur head for this one

[@jMelo215]

Any specific kind of creatine or brand you guys recommend?

[@danielbeall7725]

I tend to use Dymatize or Bulk Supplements out of habit more than anything else. Both have NSF certs. Luckily Creatine Monohydrate is cheap (though the price has increased significantly over the last year, presumably supply chain issues) and relatively easy to manufacture, so you don’t need to stress too much over brand choice. I’d go with anything that’s competitively priced (~20-30$ / 500g seems to be the going rate at the moment), outside lab tested, and “micronized” (just a finer grind so you get a nicer solution and your drink isn’t gritty. Doesn’t change efficacy)

[@jMelo215]

Wow thanks for the quick response!

[@danielbeall7725]

@@jMelo215No problem, good luck!

[@mr.apartment]

always hear about finger injuries but never thumb injuries. crashed my mountain bike years ago and sometimes climbing makes my thumb sore especially if i’m doing intense crimping etc. any thoughts on this? maybe my thumb is in the wrong position when half crimping or finger boarding? is that possible?

[@tristanfletcher321]

Yeah I injured both my thumb's from crashing in a ski slalom race and still can't fully do pinches and certain holds without pain 6 months later

[@usul1987]

workout suppress hunger? I rarely feel as hungry as during the middle of my climbing sessions (started climbing 3 month ago). my body starts crying for food when i climb :D

[@JesseLira]

Curious you guys thoughts on dry saunas? I enjoy spending ~15 minutes in there after a session but only because I feel relaxed afterwards. Anything positive or negative issues with saunas?

[@HoopersBeta]

To be honest I haven't dug deep enough into Sauna research yet, though what I have seen makes me think it is likely a neutral positive (effects may be mild, but usually more on the side of mild benefit without any crazy negatives, as long as you rehydrate). Anecdotally, I feel the same. They feel nice, I feel happy and relaxed, so that's usually a positive on it's own :) - I'll have to dig into the research deeper one day. Too many other ongoing projects at the moment :)

[@MichaelEverheartt]

Hooper how would I get a Pt appt with you? If you have a link please send. Thanks

[@HoopersBeta]

There's a link in the description of the vid, but you can also go to www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions

[@ThriveMarket]

💚

[@snake_plant]

I think from experience many climbers tend to skew heavily to undereating from a calorie perspective, and like most amateur athletes (and public in general) outside weightlifting/bodybuilding don't necessarily meet their optimum protein needs (for me as a flexitarian with a sensitive gut getting my 1.6g per kg is a struggle to say the least!). I think part of this is as climbing (like with other "alternative lifestyle" activities like yoga and calisthenics) also skews towards veganism/vegetarianism (low calorie and protein density diets) - not sure why but it sure is true. This is why I think climbers might see more benefits than your average bear from increasing calories, protein, creatine (only naturally found in meat products), taurine etc. Saying that you then have Alex Honnold who will eat an apple and a smoothie then go scale El Capitan - but I think he's an outlier both mentally and physically!

[@HoopersBeta]

Great points! I agree. Luckily I think the zeitgeist of climbing is generally shifting in a positive way - more education, more application of well-established practices from other sports (though this also leads to issues, but still…), more critical thinking, and a healthier mindset about weight and food (though we still clearly have a long way to go in that regard). -Emile

[@piotrorzechowski5761]

If you gain muscles easily and there is not much body fat to lose, what would be a good way to get rid of of muscles and keep climbing in meantime? The aim is to improve climbing performance.

[@totalmetaljacket789]

No one, I mean no one, accidentally becomes a big bulked boy. You literally will not put on any significant amount of muscle if you're not eating a high protein diet in a caloric surplus. Anyone who has a body that works differently from that should go be a lab rat because it would fly in the face of all fitness understanding.

[@La0bouchere]

Limit calories/protein

[@mechtar92]

If i'm a chunky climber who tries to fit 30-60 mins of cardio 3 times a week around 3 2.5hr indoor climbing sessions, what would a good schedule look like if climbing can only be done in the evening?

[@danielbeall7725]

Totally fine to alternate days. As long as you keep them a few hours or more apart it shouldn’t be an issue. Might be a little rough right at the start, as you acclimate, but within a week or few the load should be totally manageable. If you really push the running (high volume, high intensity, intentional overload) and you’re not careful managing your diet with it, you may run into some issues, but just trying to get 30-60 min of quality cardio on rest days should be totally fine.

[@sam-ys9pc]

one question, i understand the meaning of a complete protein source, but what does a high quality protein source mean?

[@zacharylaschober]

High quality protein sources also refers to how digestible these are and therefore how much protein and nutrients you will get. All high quality proteins I would mention are also complete protein sources, and the scale used for many is still based on Egg protein even though Whey now ranks higher.

[@haloknight1]

Hey guys! Any recommendations on creatine monohydrate and protein powder brands/products?

[@HoopersBeta]

Bulk supplements is a good recommendation for creatine and as for protein I always go with a brand that has hydrolyzed whey as it's easier for my stomach to digest.

[@snake_plant]

Definitely try micronized creatine (I use Applied Nutrition if that's available where you are). More expensive but far easier on the stomach - plain creatine has made me throw up in the past.

[@devnull2766]

This video would have been 100s of times better with them separated to avoid "peer pressure" and have real discussions on what they think - Amazing video though!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it! There was no peer pressuring going on -- they both voiced they opinions honestly and accurately; it just so happens that well-informed people tend to agree on a lot of things :) -Emile

[@JesseLira]

Ok last one 😅 for protein intake, is there an optimal time to consume protein or is it only important to have enough everyday?

[@HoopersBeta]

Companies will try to get you to believe there's some magical window for ingesting after working out. From my understanding of the research I've seen, it's 1) more important to focus on your daily protein amount and 2) getting minimum of 2 but preferably at least 3 good protein servings in a day and 3) the timing of say morning vs evening isn't that relevant and finally 4) sure you should probably consume some protein at least within 2 hours after working out but you certainly do NOT need to stress about immediately consuming it afterward.

[@JesseLira]

Thanks so much!@@HoopersBeta

[@mahdielamin98]

Should a person only take creatine during workout days or also on rest days?

[@HoopersBeta]

If you’re going to take it, take it every day.

[@LastAphelion]

I LOVE my gorilla mindwarfare HMB crea-nitro bcaa+eaa+cbd+abc+abs with pork rind peptides joker edition. I take it every day and I feel like I can do exactly the same as I normally do without it, but I just want everyone at the club to know I'm taking it and that's why I look so cool /s

[@HoopersBeta]

😂 if it’s got bcaas AND cbd you know you’re about to crush the gym set

[@xyzzy10000]

LMFAO YES THE "hIgH aNgLe cRiMpInG"... all of a sudden a few months ago everyone and his dog starts throwing around this term like it's some cutting edge new technique...it's just full crimping ffs

[@danielbeall7725]

💯😂

[@La0bouchere]

It's different: - main fingers 90 degrees -> half crimp - pinky at 90 degrees -> high angle crimp - all fingers > 90 degrees -> full crimp

[@sidious-dy9rh]

Having used and using creatine I just use it everyday. As for weight gain I did gain about a kg in weight but it evened out after a few weeks.

[@HoopersBeta]

Same. Personally, I stopped unloading/reloading years ago. I just use it daily.

[@snake_plant]

​​@@HoopersBetaI think with creatine it's important not to just focus on the sports performance as well. I actually take creatine primarily for chronic pain and fatigue which there also appears some evidence for. Similarly with collagen, although as indicated in the video it has poor research for tendons I do still take speculatively in addition to whey for gut health and potential sleep perks (due to the glycine content) - probably all placebo but it's cheap enough here to experiment!

[@hidden_sense9839]

Thank you for the informative video! Currently I am trying out both creatine and carnitine for the first time. It's always hard to tell, but I feel like it does benefit me. From the studies that I have seen, it's to be expected that the effects are not huge... just as you said. But what I was missing was any data on the effect these supplements have on vegetarians and vegans. I am a vegetarian with a mainly vegan diet, so my reasoning is that I am supplementing something I am missing in my diet. The dosage I use is relatively low (1g and 0.5g respectively) currently, since I am more or less mimicking what I'd get from a meat-rich diet. My guess would be that I benefit a lot more than someone who eats a lot of meat anyways. What is your take on this or do you know any studies?

[@MichaelDuke1]

If you're gonna do 1g may as well do 5g and feel the full effects.

[@snake_plant]

The studies on supplements often do assume an average omnivore diet. So there are things that without thorough diet planning or supplementation vegans/veggies may lack where people perhaps may benefit more than studies currently suggest from taking: D, B12, Iodine, protein, creatine, taurine, carnitine, DHA etc. Problem is many veggies/vegans dont eat the specific foods needed to fill in gaps (like tempeh as a taurine source...I HATE tempeh 😂), and then you have the added issue of some defensively shutting down any talk of common deficiencies as its taken as an attack on the diet (it can be quite polarised which helps noone).

[@totalmetaljacket789]

1g of creatine daily is effectively pointless as a supplement. You're adding the equivalent of like 1 6oz steak worth of creatine. You can get that amount from food readily. 5g is the given number because it's both studied as effective and a quantity that requires significant diet changes to achieve otherwise.

[@HoopersBeta]

If you're not getting much creatine from your diet then it's certainly feasible you could benefit more from a creatine supplement than your average meat-eater. A daily dose of about 2-5g is most common; we tend to sway toward the higher end of that range since a little extra doesn't hurt and it's relatively cheap.

[@hidden_sense9839]

@@totalmetaljacket789 so what? For more than a decade before I became a vegetarian, I have eaten less meat on average than what you just statet. For now around a decade I am a vegetarian. In other words, this is a significant diet change for me, so I'd rather take it slow, see how I react and slowly increase. The average natural production and intake of creatine for a human my body size is 2g a day (Walker et al, Persky et al), so I'd say if my aim is to get to average values, I'm more or less spot on. Unlike you stated, _I_ cannot get that amount from food readily. You know zero about my medical history nor about my goals in sports.

[@mikegaunt837]

can you suggest a Creatine? sketched out by the supplement industry :(

[@HoopersBeta]

Response copied from Dan from another comment: I tend to use Dymatize or Bulk Supplements out of habit more than anything else. Both have NSF certs. Luckily Creatine Monohydrate is cheap (though the price has increased significantly over the last year, presumably supply chain issues) and relatively easy to manufacture, so you don’t need to stress too much over brand choice. I’d go with anything that’s competitively priced (~20-30$ / 500g seems to be the going rate at the moment), outside lab tested, and “micronized” (just a finer grind so you get a nicer solution and your drink isn’t gritty. Doesn’t change efficacy)

[@mikegaunt837]

THANKS!!! @@HoopersBeta

[@Vaan4756346]

So, Beta-alanine, BCAAs and HMB are not needed for strength because you get these from high quality protein indirectly anyway?

[@olafbujny7326]

Beta-alanine supplementation has been shown to be beneficial when dosed correctly for a long period of time, but by no means has a substantial effect on training and adaptions. Otherwise, I'd say you are correct.

[@KarstenThoughts]

True Nutrition's vegan proteins have a better EAA profile than many commercial Animal Proteins. They use in house and third party testing and will provide a summary if someone asks. I do not have any association with them, just love their products.

[@sstrong42]

Oh wow, I didn't know about this new info about not having to load creatine.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah the newer approaches are seemingly much more tolerable for most as well.

[@sstrong42]

@@HoopersBeta It was the thing that stopped me from using it years ago. I got GI distress and lots of bloating. It was not a good time. I may try again with this new info!

[@user-sc9ud8wh3t]

​@@sstrong42was it a newer info? From my personal research done a few years ago, i didnt see any point in loading for climbing training. However, i did (and i am not medical specialist in any way) find that you seem to keep benifiting from taking more into some crazy numbers (over 50 gramms) if you can tolerate it, but returns do diminish and it gets kind of unreasonably expensive (and perhaps potentially harmful, didnt find any long term studies)

[@danielbeall7725]

Not new info really, but people do seem to bias towards a loading phase historically. There shouldn’t be any meaningful advantage to increased dosage, as muscle retention caps out pretty fast and depletion is 3g or less for most. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5469049/

[@funkyguy1996]

What about hair loss related to creatine/DHT produced?

[@HoopersBeta]

There’s currently no evidence to suggest that’s an issue

[@robertpeschke7746]

when are we going to discuss dan's blue fingers? Also Jason should match

[@HoopersBeta]

Nothing to discuss -- it's the simple trick to climb V17

[@danielbeall7725]

They’ve worn off at this point I’m afraid. Back to the mild mannered version 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@robertpeschke7746]

So dan will go back to projecting v4s like the rest of us with plain nails 💅

[@robertpeschke7746]

@@HoopersBeta blue nails under rated for sure.

[@sstrong42]

Two supplements that actually work: creatine and caffiene.

[@HoopersBeta]

Fair! Though I'm not sure I can call caffeine (or more accurately coffee) a "supplement" at this point. More like a deeply rooted part of my happiness.... 😅

[@sstrong42]

When I think of it as a supplement, I'm thinking of it in high dosages, like 200+ mg. It also /feels/ like the high dose caffeine + beta alanine has cognitive benefits when they're paired, but I'm pretty sure most of that is placebo. Oh snap, maybe you could do beta alanine in the next video?

[@zacharylaschober]

beta alanine has no immediate effects and no synergy with caffeine. However, I do supplement with beta alanine, simply needs to accumulate the way creatine does. A video on this for climbers would be useful since the research is of near no effect unless performing tasks for >40sec.

[@danielbeall7725]

There does not appear to be a definitive consensus on beta alanine at this point. Interestingly, there is good evidence (from agriculture) to suggest that most if not all human trials have been using an inadequate dose. Should be interesting to see what if any new research surfaces in the future.

[@snake_plant]

100% on caffeine. Coffee is climbing juice.

[@laurindamasonrealtor1925]

I deload because I getting achy and I feel like it's my body's way of saying take it easier. I would like a video explaining it more

[@HoopersBeta]

Sounds wise! And absolutely, we are working on a video that goes into more details about deloads currently :)

[@isaarunarom7830]

I down climb every Boulder for the challenge

[@peterl0815]

I have problems with this protein shakes and stuff since they are all processed food. Isn't it possible to get it done with just normal healthy self made food?

[@HoopersBeta]

When making dietary choices, individual preferences are always important to factor in. Yes, it is possible to meet daily nutrition goals without protein shakes/powders.

[@HoopersBeta]

What do you mean by “processed?” A loaf of bread is also processed, does that mean it’s unhealthy? Whey protein powder is literally just milk protein in isolated, concentrated form. Sometimes it is hydrolyzed to make it easier to digest, but that doesn’t make it less healthy. And yes, you can absolutely get all the nutrients (including protein) you need from homemade and whole foods. Protein powder is just convenient as it’s high-quality and low-calorie, but it’s certainly not necessary. Hope that helps! -Emile

[@totalmetaljacket789]

Processed is not a bad word.

[@La0bouchere]

A weird bodybuilding alternative to protein powder is to just chug cartons of pasteurized egg whites throughout the day

[@peterl0815]

@@HoopersBeta Yes it helps. Did brighten my view a bit. I often have the impression, that only this protein shakes suitable to meet the daily protein needs of a sports person. I personally would rather grab the piece of tofu, can of chickpeas or beans instead of shakes. This feels more natural for me.

[@molomono9481]

Can you distinguish a bit more the reason creatine isnt overrated but bcaas are? From my understanding they are commonly consumed from the same food sources, (red meat being an obvious one) and in both cases can easily hit saturation levels in a healthy diet. It feels like because of a measureable increase in water weight with creatine you can establish if you had a low intake in your diet. But if you are low in BCAAs you dont measure anything but will potentially shortshooting your recovery. Since mechanistically both are understood i dont quite understand why one is considered good and the other isnt. Since both only do anything if you have a low dietary intake in the first place.

[@molomono9481]

Especially because the importance of leucine is stated multiple times, how is it overrated when it is stated to be important in tissue recovery?

[@totalmetaljacket789]

​@@molomono9481Because you don't need a separate supplement specifically for leucine?

[@totalmetaljacket789]

Getting 5g a day of creatine from diet isn't exactly simple. You would have to eat a plurality of lbs of meat per day every day.

[@molomono9481]

Thanks for clarifying. Is that true for all diets accross the board though something ill look into later just out of curiosity. Idk if it is in high ammounts in say plant based protein diets. I always thought it was misleading because people claim it is shown to not work. But that insuates that bcaas dont work, if interpreted that way is harmful imo. It seems like a faulty conclusion based on in vivo studies to say it doesnt work aparantly the diet must be tracked to be able to determine if that is the case. Since in vitro the mechanism is well supported. Because they are essential proteins for tissue recovery.

[@molomono9481]

I guess where i differ in philosiphy is that not having enough bcaas is hugely harmful, but not having enough creatine isnt that bad at all. And my mindset is to find longevity rather than peak performance.

[@zacharylaschober]

While the stimulus to fatigue ratio of downclimbing for endurance is low, you should absolutely downclimb to the pads and be fine with circuits on a spray wall which have some descending movements. I think the no downclimbing advice has come around more recently for climbers wondering how to stay on the wall for 15min for aerocap sessions, with the best solution being to simply lower and get back on. As well, while being able to downclimb to a found rest on an onsight climb is a great skill, many climbers downclimb reflexively when not certain of a move and expend a tremendous amount of energy not climbing. This is something to also get rid of.

[@morgan7a]

This video, not brought to you by PhysiVantage :)