How to Treat Internal Rust in a Frame - Crazy Japanese Bike Restoration - EP09

Continuing with my Japanese vintage bicycle restoration...
My frame has been shot blasted and powder coated. This has got rid of the rust on the outside, but what about the inside.
Here I’m applying oil to the inside of the frame to treat the rust there, slowing down or even stopping the corrosion that has taken place internally.
(Kinki Cycles Company - Performance)

[@DRY-C0WB0Y]

In the vintage bicycle preservation world many people use double boiled linseed oil because it penetrates the existing corrosion and polymerizes when dry, essentially sealing it.

[@dunnotck1]

Hello, could you please explain this process? I have this linseed oil I use for woodwork and an old bike with rust inside the frame

[@DRY-C0WB0Y]

@@dunnotck1~ For the inside you’ll just have to get it in through whatever holes are available, plug those holes, and tumble it around until you feel like it has had a chance to touch every surface (which means you’ll need to use an excess amount). Then set it up to drain the excess for a day or so. Use a sponge to catch the initial drips if you are worried about it running onto other parts of the frame, but keep an eye on the sponge and remove it when the majority of the drips stop. Each section will have a different drain point so you’ll have to do it in pieces- likely top and down tubes, chain stays, seat stays, and seat mast will all drain in different directions. You may want to start the process by swishing some Evaporust around inside the frame also, draining, and giving the remaining Evaporust a couple of days chance to evaporate in a warm environment. However, I would only add this step if you feel like water has sat inside the frame. For the outside it’s just a matter of getting the patina to the stage you want it at before applying with a rag, wiping off the excess. It should be dried in a warm environment which may take up to a week or two to completely set. *DISPOSE OF THE RAG PROPERLY TO AVOID COMBUSTION. The oil is flammable! Do not ball it up and throw it in the trash, or you are asking for a fire. Open it up and hang over something to dry completely.* When the oil has dried, buff the surface and repeat as needed. It may only need some spot application and another buff, if anything. Finish with a coat of beeswax.

[@popcopone5172]

@@DRY-C0WB0Y first stage Evaporust for getting rid of the rust (hopefully have the rust flakes dissolve in the solution and will go out the frame when draining. second stage linseed oil the frame for preventing the rust from happening in the future. i get it. i wanna try it with my vintage 90s mtb.

[@JDM417]

We learn something new everyday. Thanks for the video.

[@Dino_Buk]

Boil the engine oil, pour it hot, and it will be baked to the metal for many years. It's the way how an old-timers would do it on their cars.

[@Superogobongo]

Is it safe to boil it?

[@federicomaraschi4438]

I usually spray some wd40 inside the frame through the little holes on the stays an the fork

[@Mavczers]

Best moment in this video is you saying "I'm going to drain the frame" with all the oil spilling on the floor :D I'm going to use my 10w40 I had left from changing oil tommorow. Thanks for an idea!

[@martynburns1833]

That amused me too. Sign that I'm a proper amateur at work. 😁

[@jamesniv8436]

Auto transmission fluid has a lot of anti corrosion properties

[@remembertheporter]

interesting.... not sure i'll go through all that (mainly cos I don't have the bungs...)... hmm... looking for ways to protect an old Reynolds 853 frame - it's in good shape atm, but there is a bit of rust on the seatpost when I pull it out. Great vid, now subbed, ta

[@bikeshaman-bicyclerestorat1194]

I'm lucky as I have a seat tube reamer. It's an adjustable reamer. In your situation I would ream the seat tube then spray some GT85 (or the like) further down the tube, keeping away from the area that actually does the clamping. Often, a bit of rust residue on the seat post isn't too much to worry about.

[@remembertheporter]

@@bikeshaman-bicyclerestorat1194 you are, indeed, a shaman! Thanks for the tips! RJ the bike guy cleans the tube with some wire wool on the end of a straitened coat hanger. Anyway, all bike guys are great. Ta

[@bikeshaman-bicyclerestorat1194]

@@remembertheporter I have actually tried that and it worked well. I stuck the coat hanger wire in a drill to make life easier.

[@NWforager]

Used oil works as good . i like linseed oil in a sprayer .

[@paulhaworth6399]

Never thought about engine oil

[@moe2222]

many bike do not made that way any more it just one part touch the other part and then just weld it so that mean no hollow pipe connect to each other any more i wish they do make like the very old way so that i can use wd40 to do anti rust on the inside of the pipes

[@xelseartheonlyone1267]

I actually wanna get a Cromoly gravel bike. But i worry a lot about the rust. I wonder if it is worth getting but i like steel.

[@martynburns1833]

Cromoloy is a good quality steel. If you have it from new and you look after your bike you shouldn't have a problem. (A spray inside the tubes with GT85 every six months or so.) If the history of the frame is more unknown I'd do what I've done, or one of the other methods suggested in the comments.

[@steveelkins52]

Why does he flap his hands about?

[@martynburns1833]

It's one of my traits, something I guess that I may have unconsciously picked up from one of my boyhood heroes Magnus Pyke. I guess it's one of the things that makes me unique, rather than trying to confirm to other people's expectations of how I should behave. Thank you for pointing out my idiosyncracy. I am now aware of it and proud of it. 💕

[@ministryoftruth8588]

You can Drill Small Holes in the Seatstays, Chainstays and Fork Blades and Lube up EVERY Nook and Cranny of the Internals of a Steel or Alloy Frame. Best Drill a Hole in the Middle of the BB Shell as Well, for Water Drainage. Also Best to Drill Holes RIGHT at the Bottom of the Fork Blades, Chainstays next to the BB Shell and Seatstays where they're Brazed/Welded to the Dropouts. This Way any CONDENSATION can Drain out.

[@midorimage]

I am always jealous of UK powder coating prices... where I live in New England they would charge $400

[@GreenJimll]

I've just done a Triumph (aka Raleigh) Twenty and it had those little drain holes all over the frame. In fact one job was freeing those up. It also had holes in the down tube to all the rear brake and gear cable to travel through the tube. Neat tip though - another to add to the bike repair/restoring toolkit.

[@SianaGearz]

What if one were to hide a sacrificial zinc anode down in the seat tube? Or does it not work like that?

[@aidavcomedy]

I use deodorised fish oil, cheap to buy in a spray form. Been used for decades as a rust inhibitor.

[@thyrassword9698]

Would it not be better to fill the frame with phosphoric acid, jet wash it out and then fill with motor oil after a thorough drying?

[@bikeshaman-bicyclerestorat1194]

Good idea, but have to admit, I was wary of putting anything acidic in the frame. I did actually try electrolysis, which worked really well in getting rid of the rust. However, due to storage issues I had to get rid of the tank I used before I had chance to do a video. ☹️

[@zolmajor]

Hi mate. Great video. Just started to watch you chennel. Could you tell me who has done the powder coating for you?