How To Use A Guide Belay Plate | Climbing Daily Ep.1184

[@jaywhiting4070]

These videos are really good. Can we get more videos from Adrian?

[@BarryChamberlain007]

It would be nice if you showed how to change the angle of the plate to help release the locking arrangement to help lower a climber if needed. Thanks for the nice video.

[@Ryan-yf5ds]

Before people chip in just have a look at what you need in your logbook to apply to be a mountain guide. I think he knows what he is doing

[@porororoborororo672]

More trad tip videos please :)

[@jaywhiting4070]

Can we have some more videos from Adrian please? These are very good.

[@rockclimbing3844]

Easy to fallow, Thanks cheers for Colorado

[@WellDinosaur]

Is a non-locker from the sling to the anchor good enough? or should you be using a locking carabiner.

[@vincentkrause7097]

Good enough Lockers should be used for clipping yourself into the masterpoint and for the Belay device

[@hill_skills]

So do you convert to a normal belay when the leader leads the next pitch? Presumably you don't belay a leader from a direct belay.

[@Ammoniummetavanadate]

I don't know if the fall forces argument holds. Maybe if your equalization is poor, but on top rope the fall forces are minimal. So maybe you get a marginal improvement using nylon slings or the rope, but unless the second falls right at the anchor there is lots of rope in the system to absorb that fall.

[@FerAdventures]

Yeah, the British have this argument straight from the top of Mountain Training but it does not hold. You have 10-20... 60 metres of dynamic rope but... hey! You are worrying because the last metre or two are static...

[@johntuttle9544]

Whatever the force the anchor experiences over body weight, when constructed with the rope it will be nearly 50% less than with Dynema slings. That is worth it when the anchor may experience the forces of a lead fall. In a TR situation no one cares, he's talking in the general sense when constructing anchors.

[@MrMatrixMinds]

Link to the series doesn't work

[@eastoncurtis6931]

Is it possible to belay from the top of an anchor with a device like the Black Diamond ATC XP?

[@marcosjuan3142]

No, but you can with black diamond "ATC guide" or "Reverso" petzl

[@beyondthepale2023]

@@marcosjuan3142 and a multitude of others.

[@richardeden1453]

Wouldn't it be better to use a quad-anchor with a cordellette ?

[@SurPhili]

Solid anchors should always feature tiny nuts

[@Martijn_Poot]

why was the dmm rhino not gravity loaded? this way your risking it vibrating open and you are damaging the rope part with the steel from the nut....

[@andrewwatson3777]

Shouldn’t an anchor be built completely with skrewgates for security?

[@mattiashofmann3695]

ya, that draw is a bad idea

[@Ammoniummetavanadate]

Ideally yes, but we all go into two bolts at the top of a sport line with draws. I think you can make that case if you are climbing above the anchor, but for this situation you don't need to worry about the sling coming down over the biner, so I would call it safe enough.

[@mattiashofmann3695]

Or don't have unnecessary risk and get proper gear. I mean, who am I, it's your life (and all the new climbers who watch this video)

[@Melanie-Shea]

screw gates are a great idea at the masterpoint where there is a lot of fumbling around, but there is no real need to use screw gates to clip the gear placements, nobody is messing with that part of the anchor and they are clearly in sight. As long as the wire gates are not having the gate pushed open by the rock it is fine.

[@Melanie-Shea]

on the right hand nut placement where it looks like the rock could push a wire gate open he uses a locker to safe-guard it.

[@williammaguire4871]

'pitFALLS' of the system

[@philipppuchner1115]

Ok, so, the disadvantage of the Plate (or the guide function of the tube) is when the follower is going to fall or falls. Why? Because the Plate locks. And? Is it hard to get out of? Because it's not easy to lower the climber back down he said in the video? Yeah, and why is he not showing what to do to unlock the plate to continue climbing? I Mean: every climber in the world knows how a tube works, or has started with one as his first belay devices. And with the guide loop you can clip it to the anchors and belay from there. Yes, that everyone knows and it is obvios. Or meybe not for everyone. And at the point in the video, where I thought the guy would explain how to properly operate the devices, what to do in case of a fall, what of you want to switch leaders at the anchor etc, the video ends. Like Alex Khazanov in the co commentary in the last Boulder Worldcup Final in Japan: "Whaaaaaaaaaaat???" ;)

[@bellini98-1]

It's not a complete instructional video... If you have all of these doubt, you should take part to a course, or you could read some guide book, or go outside with a more knowledged friend....

[@mattjustice5112]

Why has he tied a knot in a dyneema sling?? Has he not watched the dmm testing vids?

[@matscarensio1940]

22kN rated dyneema doubled up and tied with a flat overhand (roughly halves strength) gives you an anchor rated to 22kN. Compare that to cordelette (6-7mm) which has a breaking strength of around 5-7.5 kN.

[@davidcross30]

It is to make the anchors independent.

[@-theJoker-]

redundant protection and no shock load if one piece fails