How To Use Beam and Jack to Raise Multiple Floor Joist - Crawlspace Repairs

www.homebuildin... Click on this link for more videos on how to repair parts of your home as well as new construction tips. This video is part three in our series on how to raise floor joist in a crawlspace using a large beam with a couple of jack's and blocks. Make sure you watch the other videos and remember this job could be hazardous to your health. Jacks can fall, lumber can break and if you're underneath any of this when it comes falling down, you could get injured. I'm not trying to scare you, but you need to take every safety precaution you could imagine and all of the ones I mentioned in these videos seriously.

[@gregvancom]

Here's a video on beam sizes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Znuzh4adg76orKM

[@MrAnderson5157]

Just use the adjustable support jack, thats what it's made for. Using bottle jacks is a no no. The correct item isn't that much more in price.

[@jimmyschmidt14]

Your channel is a godsend for me and my old house. i've watched a ton of your vids. i have learned a ton and a lot of this info is very hard to find. thanks Greg! you are saving me tons of money and time! much appreciated!

[@gregvancom]

I always like to hear wonderful comments like yours and sincerely appreciate them. Thanks for watching and I'm glad they're helping.

[@AdamBogan]

Thank you for all the great content, Greg. I hope you're doing good

[@adormiehoopes1897]

Best video I have seen yet on this subject. I love love the cad imagery.I need to do this same procedure on a 2 story house that is sagging under a load bearing wall. I plan to use a 2 x 6 with metal jacks on either ends of the new beam. How do I determine how long of a span for the new support beam, And. Where to position it in regards to the low joist? I plan to raise in very small increments. Maybe raise it 3/8", then wait 4 months before raising a gain. The only access to the crawl space is a trap door under the stairs. No outside access. About the longest timber I can get under there is 8-9'. I would also like to know how to sister 2 beams together? Thanks again for a great learning tutorial!

[@KalvinistKyle]

Can you make a video that shows how to replace the rim joists? That seems like a more complicated area to work on and i bet a lot of people could benefit from that. Thanks for your videos they are extremely clear and helpful.

[@gregvancom]

I put it on the list.

[@imnotaloneheswithme7061]

There’s so many variables involved in raising or leveling a house. The one we’re working on now was done by amateurs. They must’ve used a four foot level and just raised it where it looked bad. The backside was an addition to a two story house. Where the new floor tied into the existing floor, they only blocked up the new side so there was lots of sagging. It’s important to find the high and low places with a water level line first. Then you’ll have a reference to work towards. If the house is only low in a few places work on bringing those places or Vice versa

[@MrAnderson5157]

Riiight

[@BICHETO]

When jacking joists always use blocking in between them at the points the beam pushes up, as they may flip laterally.

[@gregvancom]

Definitely some great advice.

[@kjamesjr]

I have to do something similar in an old timber framed house (c.1770’s). The kitchen I think was added on later. Both the kitchen and living room were built around big center chimneys. Previous owners had removed the chimneys to below floor level leaving the giant hearths in the basement. The house has settled around the hearths so my floors in the kitchen and living room sag around the edges and bulge up in the middle. They also did a hack job replacing the timber sills around the front of the house. Used undersized PT lumber to replace 8x8 oak sills. So the house has been literally been rolling off the new sills in the front of the house. Whole wall leans outward. I got lots of work to do. Good thing the house is only a small story and a half cape.

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for sharing and wow, a home built in the 1770s, I would love to see some pictures.

[@3yearshardcore1]

Love your channel, Greg. Preparing to start first project. Thanks so much for the solid advice.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@alastarwolfe1338]

I have to do this soon (98 yr old 2 story house) the floor has separated from the wall along one of the exterior walls in one room. the floor is sagging about 3 to 4 inches, looks like it about 2 feet from the wall so I'm hoping a beam didnt break. But seeing as how the floor seems sturdy ( my mother used an elliptical machine on it) and it's been like this for the past 10 yrs and hasn't gotten worse I don't think it's broken. But thank you this video has helped alot

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@Wis650]

Thank you so much for these videos

[@gregvancom]

You are so welcome!

[@marneecarter7092]

I have a question about a broken floor joist. It is in a 2 story house right at the staircase. It is an older house, I have jacked up that joist at the break. Placed a 30 inch metal angle iron in the spot. Do i now go and put a beam along the other joist also. It is in the middle of the house and the rooms to each side is 20 feet each. Thank you for any additional information you have. Marnee Carter

[@nedparrott4689]

Great video I love your 3d modeling. What about supporting the outer wall parallel to the joists? I understand the placement of the beam perpendicular to the joists but what if you wanted to lift a corner. Wouldn't you need to support the wall that sits on the foundation? That is the wall I will need to lift. It doesn't have joists that tie into it because they run parallel to the wall. The house was built in the 40s and it doesn't even have a subfloor. Just hardwood floors. The perimeter wall with no joists are supported by a 2x4 on the bottom, a 2x4 on the top, and 2x4s cut to the height of the joists.

[@gregvancom]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmm7pouXlJihZ5o see if this link helps, if not visit our website and click on the repairs tab and then click on the framing link for framing repair tips.

[@hillaryalbaine5533]

Love these videos! I'm a 27 year old woman, trying to fix a sagging floor where weight was shifted off the main center beam of my small ranch house by work done by a previous owner. An engineer said I could fix it by placing a beam down the length of the house a few feet over from the original where the weight is falling, and add piers underneath. I'm doing this myself and don't feel equipped to build proper piers but I'm wondering if I can make a repair that would be semi -permanent by using several 6 foot beams along the length supported by jacks. It is about a 2-3 inch sag. I could use advice! Would I jack the sag to be level prior to placing the long term support or can I adjust the jacks to lift slowly so the house can adjust? This is an intimidating job for sure, but it's a single story ranch and I've been assured regardless of the sagging it's structurally sound, at least for now.

[@gregvancom]

Yes, that sounds like it would work as a temporary repair. Don't forget to visit our website and then click on the repairs tab and then click on the link for framing. There are a few more videos I've made that might be helpful.

[@pillcosby9601]

Sagging may be caused by beams being to far apart he's right add another beam, concrete piers would be better but if you don't know how to make them you can always use a pad 16"x16"x4" and block, solid blocks will be more better than the hollow ones. Place the pad and block every six feet along the beam and if you need more than one beam splice it over the center of the pier or block. When you use Hydrolic Jack's to pick up the beam always pick up underneath a floor joist to prevent from breaking the beam, if your ground is soft or wet place a piece of plywood below the Hydrolic jack to stop it from sinking into the ground.

[@MattSeals]

Basically had to tell you I am delighted I came in your video!

[@gregvancom]

Well then that might be a first and thanks for watching.

[@eliterrazas4138]

Ewws

[@mikepeerdata]

I have an issue on my kitchen. Unknown water damage caused rotting. The center of the kitchen sags a lot. Would you recommend scabbing to the joists already there, or replacing? Either way, should I consider setting a beam like in this video with some floor screw jacks as a permanent added solution to either scabbing or replacing? Your video depicts about exactly what I will be looking at when I tackle this job. About a 2 foot crawl space, yay for my back. I have helped build homes, however new construction is different from repairs like this... Thanks for your videos. They have given me more insight to how I need to tackle these repairs.

[@gregvancom]

+Michael Petty It's hard to provide you with exactly what you need to do, since I'm not a structural engineer and don't really have a good idea how long the joist are and if they're undersized, but I think the beam placed in the middle of the floor joists span sounds like a good idea, if the joists aren't sagging more than an inch. If you want feel free to take some pictures and email them to me for further clarification. You've given me an idea of another video and will make one within the next month on problems you could encounter if floor joist sags more than an inch.

[@mikepeerdata]

gregvancom I will post you with some before and after pictures. Thanks for the reply. I believe I will be putting a beam along the center of the kitchen. Can't hurt that is for sure. I think as for replace or scabbing, I will tackle that as I come to it. Replacing one at a time if needed.

[@richardyan5888]

What should I do with the frame attached to the crawlspace cinderblock?Should I separate them first then jack the beam up? And concrete the gap? Please advise! Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

I don't see why you couldn't use cinder blocks or lumber to fill gaps after raising beams.

[@richardyan5888]

@@gregvancom got it, thanks 👍

[@coryzirk5299]

Literally used a bottlejack to level a floor the other day ":-) Previous owner had added a basement window, and removed some brick to accomodate that. He failed to add a lintel above the window. A leaky roof caused the area around the window (above it) to rot, and break down the mortar joints in the brick. The 2 joists above, dropped about 2 inches and stopped on the 2x4 frame the window is installed with. Then 2 more joists beside that were compromised. One joist had a 10 inch by 6 inch chunk taken out to fit wires. Another had a 20 inch long, and 3 inch thick chunk taken out of it. Those 2 joists had begun to sag along with the 2 that dropped. I sistered the two compromised joists, and shored up the 2 that dropped while we wait for permits to fix that, and the undermined footing. (going to go with a small I-beam above the window. He could have gotten away with a 1/8" steel flatstock had he done it when he installed the window, but noe its too late for that.

[@selenanv859]

Hi Greg. I bought a 180 gallon glass aquarium (6 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft). Discovered my floor joists run parallel to where the tank must go, and the tank will be centered along a single joist. Joists are 2 in. x 10 in. with 16 in. spacing and span 13 ft. One end of the tank is within 15 in of a load bearing structure that supports the second floor of the house. I bought 4 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft Douglas fir beams, and Tiger jack posts and concrete deck piers to support the beams. To avoid some ducting and wiring, can I use two sections of beam (each 4 ft long), intersecting 3 joists (1 with tank on it and 1 on either side of it) and put a jack (4 total) where the beam sections intersect the two outer joists? Should I use a third beam with two more jacks? The jacks say 18,000-16,000 lbs compression load. Where should I put the beams/jacks along the 6 ft length of the tank? About 1 ft in from each end if I use only two beams? Tank will weigh close to 2,000 lbs when full including stand and canister filters. Thanks in advance for your help. Video was great.

[@steven-ui7sz]

Thanks for your videos. I want to jack up the corner of a 50 year old two story home about 1 inch to level a sill plate. The floor has a very pronounced slope. The sill sits on a concrete wall that has no cracks, which is level for about 24 feet but then drops an inch in the last ten feet. The other walls appear ok, It almost looks like they ran out of cement when they poured the foundation and never bothered to level the sill? Or if they shimmed it, whatever they used has disintegrated. It has a full basement and I have easy access to the joists, but the area is directly below first and second floor bathrooms. Should I disconnect plumbing to sinks and remove toilet flanges before attempting this? My plan is to raise the corner, and either shim with steel plates of fill with non shrink grout. Any advice would be appreciated.

[@gregvancom]

If the plumbing, electrical or heating is going to create a problem for the repairs, then it should be disconnected.

[@Airfun101]

I have a single story ranch type on a crawlspace, 26' wide, 40' long, 2X10 joists run to a beam running lengthwise in the centre. There is wood blocking every 10' along the long beam (3 of them ttl), it was excavated underneath the furnace to make room for ducting (right beside centre block). Over the years the pad (laminated 2X4s) has sunk, centre of the house had ~1" sag. On the other side of the furnace a joist was cut to accommodate it and it was blocked/boxed. Right beside that a joist was cut to accommodate a drain (prev owner reno :( ), plan is sister the cut joist with 8' 2X10, secured with lag bolts. I was thinking I wanted a beam like you show in the video to run under all 3 joists, that would be within a few inches of the repaired cutout and the end of the box by the furnace. Fellow I have working on this says between joist blocking is the ideal fix. He wants to do the blocking on the other side of the house to fix a bouncy floor in the kitchen - is this the way to go, or support from beneath?

[@gregvancom]

I'm having a difficult time figuring out exactly what you're doing, but as long as you can support these joist structurally, then you should be okay. Feel free to email me some pictures or a drawing of what you're thinking about doing for more information and you can get our email address at our website.

[@Poonty305]

Thanks for the video very informative. I just purchased a house it is about 90 years old. It doesn't have basement and problem with main floor is sinking about 10 to 12 inches down in the middle. That is pulling upper floor as well. Not sure how much space we have under the main floor but I am sure main sub floor needs to be remove to access. Is it fixable issue? Seems like this is in same condition for quite a some times and previous owner was living in same condition. Is it something fixable? My realtor told me about 10k max for fix may be less. Is it correct? Appreciate recommendations if someone can fix this.

[@gregvancom]

Since I don't know the condition of the rest of the structure, then I won't be able to speculate on whether or not this can be repaired, but here's a link to our website for more videos about crawlspace repairs. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html

[@Poonty305]

@@gregvancom thank you will see how is the condition once we are able to remove subfloor.

[@hookedonfractal]

I am going to be doing this in a crawl space for a house we are buying because the sill plate is rotted out. Would solid concrete blocks under the bottle jack leveled with some sand underneath do the trick? I'm also looking for some 1/4" steel plates to put between the bottle jack top and a 6x6 to raise the floor joists. I plan to pull the siding off and replace the sill plate and band joist. I will also have to sister some of the floor joists where they sit on the sill plate because those are rotted out on the bottom as well. Any thoughts?

[@gregvancom]

I would visit our website and check out the crawlspace repairs and floor framing repair videos for more information. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html

[@shawn0fitz]

I'm thinking this would only work in the case where the sag is in the middle. For example if the corner of the house has settled, this method won't work, even if you put the beam all the way at the end of the joist where the settling occurred. Because the end of the joist is nailed into the joist running under the wall, and also the parallel joist can't be lifted unless you get under the sill.

[@gregvancom]

Yes, you would need to use the beam and raise the joist over the foundation.

[@brettbaker2843]

Great video. I'm using this technique to support a fish tank. Quick question - is it necessary to dig a hole and put any engineered fill in the hole before I put down the base block, or can I just simply place the base block on the ground and put the jack on top of it? Thank you for the help!

[@mesutyenice1457]

Its better to fill in the hole with concrete cylinders or any engineered fill.Soil has to be strong.

[@Brandon-no3vc]

On a new build should you put those in so it doesn’t sag? Also how would you re level a house on a crawl space stem wall? Do you have a vid?

[@gregvancom]

Here's a link that might help. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html

[@Brandon-no3vc]

@@gregvancom I mean if you had a crawl space with a concrete stem wall

[@bullet0597]

This brought up a good question I have...i have a joist that is high (crowned) by about a half inch or so. The contractor talked about cutting the subfloor and planing the joist down but, there is so much that has to come out to do that, it isn't really an option. He suggested an old "trick" he has used before where he uses a steel bar and puts lags in neighboring joists then the problem joist to draw it down. Does this sound like a bad idea or, ok thing to do? I don't want to have him do it if it's not going to be good..

[@gregvancom]

If it's not going to take too much time, then you can remove the sheathing and plane the joist, but the second idea seems easier and worth a shot. As far as you asking whether or not this is a good or bad idea, whether or not it would lead to future problems, I cannot say for sure, because wood does move over time.

[@granny933]

How do you determine how much leveling a house can tolerate? Should you be concerned about damaging Windows?

[@imnotaloneheswithme7061]

Jared Gross Jared, you probably already have the answer, by now. Learn how to use a water level line, it’s easy. Just remember to read the water line correctly.

[@shaheedpak]

Greg roughly how much should I expect to pay for a job like this? give or take? Also, is there specific type of professional I need to call can you provide any suggestions? Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

I wouldn't even attempt to estimate the cost of something I haven't looked at or have no idea about pricing and materials where you live. I would contact a general contractor or framing contractor. Sometimes real estate professionals can also provide you with their favorite contractors.

[@mershymarsh]

What can you do if you also want to lift the parallel rim/end joist? Must the foundation be cut to get under it, or can some arrangement of bolts, beams, brackets, fletchplates, etc be used to transfer force (like a deck ledger)?

[@gregvancom]

You can get our email address at our website to email me some pictures of your problem and I'll see if I can provide you with more information.

[@stevenpeterman]

I think my pillars are to high causing a high spot along the length of my home. It is like this on every pillars. There is no wood shims, just brick. Do I knock the top layer of brick out and cut some wood and put in on the pillar to lower it. I have pictures, but there is no way to attach them . Thanks.

[@gregvancom]

Yes, you can remove some of the bricks to lower the pillars. Your problem isn't as common as the floor sagging. You can get our email address at our website. There's usually a link to our website in the video description box.

[@dabu2009]

Great video....I have a question. Are you required buried footers if the jack post are used a additional support along with shimming? Thanks

[@gregvancom]

You wouldn't be required to do anything that wasn't part of the original building design. You can do whatever you want when installing additional structural supports that aren't required by an engineer, but they might need to be checked regularly, every 3 to 6 months to make sure they're still doing what they were intended to do.

[@idratherfeedturtles]

Thank You ! !

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome!

[@charlesjenkinsjr.9769]

What length/size beam would you suggest to cover a span across joists 10 feet?

[@gregvancom]

I can't provide you with information like that because I'm not a structural engineer, sorry.

[@zipzip8239]

Can I do that to fix a bouncy floor on a 12x32 building? It's on blocks but only around the perimeter. No support in the center, it's not sagging just. Just very bouncy. Or would you suggest a different way?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, a structural beam down the center might your problem or at the very least reduce some of the movement.

[@zipzip8239]

@@gregvancom thanks

[@alastarwolfe1338]

If Jack up a floor like this do you have to eventually put post up in place of the jacks or can you just use the jacks permanently?

[@gregvancom]

You can actually use heavy duty screw jacks and leave them, but I wouldn't do it with hydraulic jacks. Keep in mind that this video was meant to provide you with suggestions for what you can do, but might not work for every type of building.

[@gregvancom]

If it was me I would use posts with concrete footings to support the beam.

[@TheJerryskid]

Excellent 🙏

[@gregvancom]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@nonn4562]

se ve bien pero antes de levantar el piso deven poner un oyo de 1x1 con cocreto y un concrete pier 1X1 pie abajo del 4x6 para soportar el jack y al final poner un poste 4x4 para soporte' porque al final que ba asoportar la casa?

[@MegaThepow]

Hi Greg,Hope you can help me with this. Just bought a new construction home about 7 months ago, floor under refrigerator is sinking. Warranty guy is checking to see if he can order jack to fix it. It has been two months now since he came by, he told me it's going to be a few months until he can come to do stuff with me house. Anyway, I'm wondering if my house have enough piers to support my 2 stories house weight. Half of it my crawspace have piers, and another half of it (17.5 ft wide and 45 ft long) does not have a single pier to support beams. Should I be concerned about that? Are there any building codes that mention about you have to put a pier for xx feet or something like that? Thanks

[@gregvancom]

Not really, it would all depend upon how the home was constructed. Feel free to send me some pictures and you can get our email address at the website.

[@Lilmiket1000]

That's exactly how my foundation is made, except my house is a brick house. let me ask you, if you had to replace one of those rim joist how would you go about that in a brick house? those things are barely visible. its encapsulated from the outside. its under the exterior wall from the inside. from the crawl space its in front of the floor joist lol. So basically I don't see any way of getting at it without knocking a hole into the brick wall from outside right?

[@gregvancom]

If you can, send me a picture and you can get our email address at the website.

[@21gonza21]

How much ton load does the jack need to be for a single family home ?

[@gregvancom]

It all depends upon how much weight you're going to be lifting, but I like to use something between 8 and 12 tons. You can start with smaller jacks and if they don't raise anything, then you can always go to larger ones.

[@porkchop4604]

Greg I have a 80 year old 20x24 post and pier single story cottage with 2 x 6 floor joists that span 10' so its just above max for requiring no support however the floors have sagged and the center pier at the 10" x 12" point has not sagged and a quickie measure says its about 1/2" sag from that center pier point. Can I use 6 x 6 beams 8' long centered under the unsupported 2 x 6 beams and level and leave jack/supported with screw jacks??? Is 1/2" too much to move and cause wall problems???

[@gregvancom]

Yes, it should work, but let me know if it doesn't.

[@HitMan3385]

Can you permanently place these beams every 10 feet to fix floor sag? The contractors that built the house I’m in only used 3 rows of house piers for a 25x40 house and I’m naturally experiencing sagging floors.

[@gregvancom]

We cannot provide you with engineering advice, but can suggest that contractors have been doing what you're suggesting for years to make floor stronger.

[@josephsmylie7138]

Great video!

[@gregvancom]

Thanks

[@JonathanJubell-x7x]

I got a rotten floor and I want to change it 270 square feet how much is going to cost me

[@lukerichardson143]

We own a large 180 gallon fish tank and are looking to set it up in our living room. This tank weighs approximately 1500-1600 pounds when full. We are not looking to raise the floor, but would this be a good method to support it? And if it is how much weight could it support?

[@bodanlunny1323]

Thank

[@dustinmeier9753]

I've got a single story pier and beam with a 14 inch crawl space. Room is 21 ft x 21 ft. They had a single 2 x 12 sitting on red bricks for the only support beam (in line with ridge)... That beam fell over. And floor now sags (obviously) as much as 4 inches in the center of the room (drop a marble, acts like it's in a bowl). Can't seem to find contractors to even give it a once over for a quote. So, we're tired of waiting for a professional, and the wife and I have construction background. I've leveled houses with basements, never crawl spaces with dirt floors. I ordered a dozen (12) of the 12 to 15 inch jack posts and a high strength 8x8x2 solid concert block for each Jack post. I'm looking to put 6 Jack posts evenly spaced down each side of the existing beam with the Jack posts on the blocks and a 1/2 inch x 4 inch x 12 foot steel flat stock between the Jack post and the floor joists (due to space restrictions). The intent is to shortly raise the jacks about a half inch per week for at least 8 weeks, drag the broken beam out and replace it with a steel H-beam, actually tie the new beam to the joists, and set it down level. Any suggestions before I get everything in hand and get started?

[@gregvancom]

Here's all my videos on these repairs. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/crawl_space/index.html

[@dustinmeier9753]

@@gregvancom looks like I need to get to watching. Thank you.

[@LSFprepper]

is there any building code that is required for adding supports such as these?

[@gregvancom]

It would be better if you check your local building department to find out what they require.

[@EveryDayTrucker]

Greg, I'm in Texas, have a 102 year old house on pier and beam. I can't get a loan to get repaired but it needs the back corner lifted badly. if like to figure out how to raise it 3' while adding solid support underneath. PLEASE HELP!!!

[@gregvancom]

Send me a few pictures of your project and I'll see what I can do.

[@patrickmccarron5059]

very good video

[@ambercutter4051]

Thank you, this helped.

[@gregvancom]

+amber cutter You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.

[@adamobradovic4148]

hey buddy great video! I was wondering on how you would go about jacking up a small 20'x25' single story house 3.5 " to replace 2x6 joists (9'spans) with 2x8 joists, also adding a sill plate as well. Basement has 80"tall concrete block walls, sitting on a concrete foundation . any ideas much appreciated!

[@gregvancom]

+Adam Obradovic That sounds like a video I will need to make in the future, but right now am backlogged, so it could be quite some time before I get to it. In other words it isn't an easy project.

[@dirtnib9743]

i have a single story house, 2x12 joists in the crawlspace. i dont know if this helps but the roof structure is all 2x4, the ceiling joists are one piece spanning from the front wall of the house to the back wall of the house with struts connecting the ceiling joists to the rafters. i am assuming this would be considered a light load. the flloor is sagging by about two inches. i plan on completely renovating the area above and even replacing all the sub floor once the joists are straight and strengthened. my question is would this be able to be corrected in a weekend? and if not how much would you lift the floor each day considering im not worried about dry wall cracking and other cosmetic defects that this may cause by going up too fast. also i plan on using automobile scissor jacks instead of hydraulic jacks (would love to hear your thoughts on the scissor jacks aswell)

[@gregvancom]

I would imagine it could be done over the weekend, but don't know how many people it would take to do it, because I don't know how big of a problem you have. However, I think any jack can be used as long as you use some type of blocking to support everything your lifting just in case the jack broke or fell.

[@coachgius]

What if the sagging floor is not the basement? (E.g. second or top floor) Where/how the jack is placed to avoid problems at the ceiling below?

[@gregvancom]

Definitely a good question and of course you could always install a structural load bearing beam in the middle of the room or remove and replace the floor joist. If the floor joist are removed, then you might want to space them a little closer together. For example if you have 16 inch on center 2 x 10 then you might want to change the spacing to 12 inches on center. It might also be time to contact structural engineer.

[@coachgius]

@@gregvancom would this procedure affect the ceiling below or if done with care it will be fine?

[@Masterseven77]

do you think that my house built in 1897 2 story school house will level out, it has already been started but not finished. now im in the bathroom where the floor is an inch out of level

[@gregvancom]

It's hard to say, because sometimes the lumber can be bent, bowed and twisted enough to where it will need to be replaced.

[@cdnrider6200]

great info...thank you for this

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and I'm glad you liked it.

[@kmfw1160]

great video

[@jaganreddy1647]

Hello Greg. My wife is under a contract to buy a 12 unit apartment property in south west Virginia built in 1963. External building does not any signs of foundation issues. But we notice couple of units wall (interior walls) cracks. Contractors think it is foundation cinder blocks are not good enough. There is already vapor barriers, dehumidifier, many sump pumps, still they think it is foundation issue. Any chance I can get your email address please? I can send pictures and ask a big favor. Can we really repair the foundation issue with just 2.5' height crawl space?. I want to own the property for long time.

[@gregvancom]

It sounds like you need an engineer, but feel free to email me some pictures and you can get our email address at our website. Keep in mind that I am not an engineer and will only be providing you with my opinions.

[@kaleianderson4224]

Can you use this concept for a concrete floor...this is what I’m paying someone to do they say it’s okay I’m not so sure

[@at0mix197]

What do you mean use this concept? You mean raise a concrete floor? I'm not sure if that is a good idea, but depending on their method and experience in doing so, I guess anything is possible. The only raising of a concrete floor I've ever heard about was just to level a garage floor pad that had sunk over the years. That was done with pumped concrete under the pad.

[@gregvancom]

It's possible to raise a small sidewalk, but I don't think it would be as easy to raise a large concrete building foundation. Like Joseph said in his comment, you can pump materials under them and you can always pour concrete or cement based materials over the concrete to level it out. Let me know if this helped or if what you were doing actually worked.

[@MrTonytouchy]

I have 2 rooms that are sagging in the middle.. How much does the do it yourself job go for?.. Was quoted 7000

[@gregvancom]

+Tony De Los Santos I wish I could tell you that was a good or bad price, but have no idea how much work is involved. Contact at least three contractors so that you have three separate prices you can compare.

[@Philadelphia19147]

how do I figure out what size beam I need?

[@gregvancom]

It really depends upon how much weight is on the floor or how much weight the temporary be be supporting. It's really hard to answer that question, but you can usually look at the beams currently under the home and match them accordingly. For example if you have a 4 x 6 beam that's 8 foot long currently supporting a section of the building, then you could probably use the same size or a little larger for the temporary repair beam.

[@gregvancom]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Znuzh4adg76orKM This video might help.

[@johnnyg6827]

gregvancom thank you.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and thanks for watching.

[@ellonysman]

Rather the beam being slim like a 2x6, wouldnt something like a 4x4 be more reasonable?

[@gregvancom]

If it will work then absolutely.

[@danielgreer6704]

I seen some life up a hard hard wood floor board with no cutting I seen them using some type of weird ass magnate that push the screw up where there was a closet door the metal screws went up of were the closest door is then heard them hit something and made the wire or pins move with out fucking the floor up no cutting no drilling but some other weird stuff like that and no one was on top of the house to this they was under the house and got two floor boards up one in the living room and a other one in the bed room without cutting or drill or push the other floor boards up and all they did is move stuff around and hit and tap things under there so they could get to the pins or pipe so they could open the floor board up please show a video on that because I know it can be done with high power magnets and other weird tools I seen it be done but I don't know how they did it but it can be done then the floor boards pull back down with this weird tool and a very strong magnets and a very powerful vacuum to pull it back in and if I see them do it with eyes but they not know I seen them and don't say it can't be done I see it be done so can you try and make a video on what I just said if you can I won't to learn more on this and how they did this I know am not crazy my mom she see the same thing at the same time in her room

[@gregvancom]

I don't know what to say, I've never heard stories like yours before. If I receive more information about these mystical events then I will definitely make a video in the future.

[@Lilmiket1000]

lol dont wanna get crushed like a bug under your own house lol

[@gregvancom]

I hear you there. If you don't feel comfortable, have someone else do it.

[@carmelwine7610]

Lakario Davis I don't know why I'm laughing at this knowing I might be doing this myself and I'm a woman. 😂 🤔 😱

[@gregvancom]

You've got a good point, you might not be laughing when you're under your home and you forget something small like a screwdriver or screws and need to crawl all the way back out.

[@carmelwine7610]

gregvancom Actually I just came from under my house. I bring a rolling garden cart with everything that I can fit in it. Helps Alot!

[@gregvancom]

There you go, great idea. I used to drag a bucket and bags under the house and remember one time even thinking about leaving them there, instead of crawling back one last time to retrieve everything, but didn't.

[@dustyflair]

Much easier to show this in cartoon than to do it....

[@gregvancom]

Tight spaces definitely make project more difficult. I've had to crawl into 12 inch spaces and trust me after you do it enough you won't forget to bring everything you need.

[@michaelharper7390]

Ja k a flkor