How to use Yeti Link to charge Yeti Lithium from Sprinter Alternator - Two options

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Video showing two options for using Yeti Link module to charge Yeti Lithium from 2018 Sprinter alternator. Links to products used are below. Also check out our video update on the EC8 recall, which shows in more detail how I connected the EC8 to AWG6 feed to starter batter: • How to address Goal Ze...
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Use these parts for all options:
Yeti link expansion module: amzn.to/2IGWIBS
80A circuit breaker: amzn.to/3j5YKrx
To build your own cable get these parts:
Male EC8 to Ring terminal adapter cable: amzn.to/4cQNr3w
25 feet red and black 6 AWG wire: amzn.to/2IFHrBk
Sleeving: amzn.to/3j5ZgFZ
Butt splice connectors: amzn.to/3k8vGRR
Only for option 2 bus bar connection:
Dual bus bar: amzn.to/35eW4TU
100A fuse: amzn.to/2H7pXNC
If you don't want to build your own cable, and just want to use Goal Zero parts then get these two things:
12 foot EC8 extension cable: amzn.to/3ka5h5U
Female EC8 to ring termal adapter cable: amzn.to/3nZQygg
Note: If you are going to include use of the 80A circuit breaker, you will need to build a couple of 6AWG jumper cables
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[@LongLiveIvanna]

Thank you so much finally someone made a video on step by step how to do this thanks 🙏 bunch

[@DadsVan]

So happy to help! Good luck with your build!

[@DadsVan]

Hello. See my new comment about a recall Goal Zero did on some of the products used in this project. Hope this helps

[@DadsVan]

I just received a recall notice from Amazon today for the Goal Zero 12 foot EC8 extension cable and the Goal Zero Male EC8 to Ring cable. I used the Male EC8 to Ring terminal cable for connecting my Yeti Lithium with Link module to the car battery for alternator charging. It sounds like Goal Zero will provide a replacement for free. Here is the link to the recall info: www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2021/Goal-Zero-Recalls-Power-Cables-Due-to-Fire-Hazard

[@DadsVan]

I just called Goal Zero and they are processing replacements through this form on their website: www.goalzero.com/product-features/ec8-recall/

[@DadsVan]

Wow, I submit the form a couple hours ago and already received a response from Goal Zero (see below). Looks like replacement parts are on their way! "Thank you for contacting Goal Zero. We appreciate you filling out a form concerning the EC8 cables. We have initiated replacements for the EC8 to Ring Terminal and EC8 Extension Cable, and will be providing a Link Lock with instructions on how to install. These replacements should arrive within the next few business days. Upon receiving the cables and Link Lock, please dispose of your recalled products with a local electronic waste company. Let us know if you have any questions or concerns regarding the recall or the replacements. Best, PRODUCT REPLACEMENT TEAM"

[@briannath8919]

I used a lot of the info you had in your video over the past week, so thanks a bunch! I bought the Yet i Link module back in 2017 and just now July 2022 decided to install it in my 2017 4runner. I have an older Yeti 1000. I did order the recalled cable(s), fuse from GZ and received them back in May. I finished the install today, and my GZ charges just fine but I'm curious about the LEDs that you see once you turn your vehicle off. At first, all four LEDs are lit on the Link Module for a minute or 2, then just the bottom 3 are lit. Leaving the vehicle off and unplugging the back cable I see flashing red on the module LEDs for a few seconds, then nothing. If you leave everything plugged in, and simply turn off the engine - what LEDs are lit, for how long, on your Link Module? I can find any documentation on what is normal. Thanks!

[@DadsVan]

I don’t have access to it right now, but my recollection is the stack of green LEDs stays illuminated at all times. I did experience the red LEDs once when I left the vehicle for a couple months. I think the starter battery was drained too low. It didn’t resolve until I got the starter battery charged up. Was a bit frustrating cuz I expected the solar to keep the house battery and this starter battery charged. It was winter though so perhaps lack of charge

[@RileyCaron]

Great and super helpful video. I'm a little confused on your voltage drop math. 65A at 12V on AWG #6 results in a pretty unacceptable 10% voltage drop. Is this taking into account the fact that the alternator will really put out 13.5V to 14.5V and the yeti link really only needs a minimum of 10.7V to function, so a higher than normal voltage drop is acceptable? I consider 3% to be a maximum voltage drop in these situations, which is why 12V DC systems require such large wire for longer runs.

[@DadsVan]

Yes that is correct! However it may be that the Link works better if you can supply more voltage. It depends how their controller works. You may want to contact them to get more info.

[@skinbeater7168]

So dumb question...on the yeti link integration system, there is also a ground wire..where should i connect that?

[@DadsVan]

The green/black wires with ring connector should go to chassis ground point, such as the one under drivers seat. There will be other ground wires connected to it

[@Followmyleash]

Hi, I have a goal zero 1000 and just added an MPPT. Is it possible to connect the goal zeor 1000 to my car battery?

[@DadsVan]

Only if you have the Link module. Unfortunately you can’t have both the MPPT and Link module because use they use the same connection slot. You’ll have to decide if the MPPT is more valuable to you than the Link. In my build, I have 300W solar and sunny Colorado weather so the MPPT is not too important. I like the advantage of the Link for charging in winter and it keeps the starter battery charged.

[@scottriehm3890]

I'm curious, why bother adding the circuit breaker instead of going directly to the battery in the first case?

[@DadsVan]

I put one there to protect the cable run from battery to link module. The Link specs say it draws a max of 65A, but if anything were to short out or draw more than that, I wanted to make sure the cable run wouldn't overheat. It similar to why there are fuses protecting other cable runs coming off the battery. I just chose a breaker in this case.

[@scottriehm3890]

@@DadsVan makes sense. Thank you sir, guess I’m just so used to playing with residential power I didn’t think about that being an issue at this level. If I was installing it in a hurry, and skipped the breaker it shouldn’t be too hard to come back and add it in later right?

[@DadsVan]

@@scottriehm3890 It's easy to add later, you just have to get back into the battery box.

[@scottriehm3890]

@@DadsVan good. To my understanding, it will also send power back to the starter battery if it is drained, is this true? Will it still do that with the breaker installed? I’m looking at doing this on my fathers work vehicle and where the headlight switch is placed, he accidentally turns them on from time to time getting out and does not notice. Thank you for answering my questions.

[@DadsVan]

Yes the Yeti link will keep your starter battery charged if the Yeti is connected to another source like solar or shore. As long as the breaker is rated higher than max output of the Link (65A) it will not interfere. That’s why I chose 80A

[@AmberFrancesca]

:)

[@DadsVan]

I just uploaded a video showing how to swap out the old recalled EC8 cabling for the new EC8 cabling and Yeti Link Lock supplied by Goal Zero. That video also shows how to make the butt connection from EC8 cable to AWG6 wire feed to fuse/CB/starter battery. kzbin.info/www/bejne/boDHZX6PfNB0l7M

[@SamAminisam]

My experience with the link has not beenpositive. I eventually took it out after my alternator died ( granted I'm not sure the Link caused it). Charging with both solar and Link is a big issue. The combined input could exceed the limit of Yeti.

[@DadsVan]

Yikes! I'm sorry to hear that. I haven't had any issues yet. Yeti advertises this setup, so I would hope they stand behind it. The electronics should manage how much total input load it will accept. If I experience any issues I'll be sure to post an update here.

[@benjaminalamilla8226]

@samaminisam and @dad'svan. I also had a bad experience with the Yeti Link. I bought it last summer and connected it the same way you show in your video (similar vehicle too, sprinter 2500). It was working great for about 2 weeks (getting 700W into my GZ 3000 while driving, then during the 3rd week it kind of exploded. I smelled electrical fire smoke and took a look a the GZ, the back of the Link was now at a 45 degree angle and the end of the 12ft cable had melted and was stuck to the link. I bought it from a reseller on eBay so GZ would not work with me on getting a replacement. I had to go through the reseller. I just received my new one last week, since they've been sold out. But kind of scared to install it. Hopefully the new version of the Link (this one works with the X-line) will work better.

[@DadsVan]

That is a bummer. Hopefully the new unit works out. Did you use a fuse or circuit breaker in your connection?

[@benjaminalamilla8226]

@@DadsVan Yes, I used a 100 amp breaker. Now that I’ve seen your video I will try an 80 amp one.

[@DadsVan]

You might even try a 70A since the link pulls 65A max. How much the link pulls depends also on the size Yeti lithium you own.