How to waterproof your house with Prosoco R-Guard System

[@bryansweeney4562]

I like Matt's videos for the reason that I enjoy hearing of advancements in building science. Having said that, nearly all of his videos are nothing short of infomercials, pure and simple.

[@skillpointglobalinc.2890]

Price shop and look carefully at coverage...this sytem is much more expensive than OSB + Siga Wigluv + Tyvek OR Zip System plus seam tape. Matt, thanks for bringing us a wide array of products, but please always give us a price range/comparison against equivalent solutions. Most builders/clients are still looking for the mostest for the leastest! :)

[@tsicby]

You think it would be cheaper to just put up Zip sheathing and maybe use the liquid flashing for windows and nail holes to get the same effect?

[@Hedgehodge-]

This system spreads way easier than the zip liquid flashing. I'd use this at only critical areas and tape the rest of looking to cut cost. My house is built into a ledge so some 4x8 zip sheeting is being covered on the bottom foot of the panel ... After seeing their 3 year old cardboard box still holding water just fine... That sold me

[@sebastiantevel898]

@@tsicby You have to pay for the plywood, the liquid flashing + someone to roll the thing over it, you bet the ZIP sheathing would be cheaper. Although this compound may be more durable than the thin water repellent layer on the ZIP panel.

[@jerrymcintire7902]

I did price shop. For old work/ranovation, this is hands down the least expensive and best performing system. Less labor also than a wrap, tape, flashing all the windows and doors. The final step can be sprayed and backrolled, makes it really fast.

[@koogleyou557]

I just paint around all openings (drs/windows) with redguard - 1 bucket 50.00 got a whole house, rolls on w a reg paint roller (3 or 4 inch) beyond that there are roll on waterproofers that have to be cheaper - on that note Id hit all sheet goods on the ground 1st THEN hit nail patterns and joints b4 tilt up of walls.

[@dynajenenterprises]

Cost for the sausage tube is about $25 a tube, or $1 a square foot of coverage. The cat5 rollable is about $525 a 5 gallon bucket or $1.40 per square foot of coverage. so a 30x40 single story house would cost 2720 square feet of wall x $1.40 for cat5 = $3808 to air seal, plus detail caulk, plus labor if done by someone else. Super rough estimate as well btw....

[@jakeb5815]

I'd say thats on the high side, depending on what the substrate is, and where you buy the material. Labor to install and elimination of construction delays for weather or sequencing is where that cost is made up

[@MD-cd7em]

SO BASICALLY...ITS NOT CHEAP!

[@nmotionproductions29]

4.25 per square foot is a good starting point for pricing. Prosoco makes great products don’t cheap your installation cost.

[@johnlee7085]

A 30 x 40 foot house has 140 lineal feet of perimeter. If it has 8 foot walls + floor joist, etc. = 10foot tall walls, that's only 1400 SF of wall, or off by a factor of 2, and cost about $1,900 it would seem.

[@grendelum]

Sure, it’s more expensive than a wrap product... thing is, this stuff actually works.

[@modernflyfisher5091]

I like this system a lot. I have used it extensively and I've found that after a little training it takes less time then you might think. There is also a spray version of the cat-5 called Spray Wrap MVP.

[@bobbygetsbanned6049]

Can the spray wrap MVP be roller applied too? I been looking on their website and it doesn't specify. The CAT 5 is way more expensive.

[@chrisspeer3257]

My question is about Fire and the products flammability and how it reacts to fire or heat

[@peterdarlington4117]

Keep fire away from your house at all times👍

[@135SoHc]

Used the joint and seam filler to prep a rough opening for a door install, not enough area to use an entire sausage pack of product so I just used the one product to cover everything. A bit messy for the first time user but I was liking the end result. Much nicer than tape and once dried this stuff does not come off the plywood. Let it dry in nozzle and it peel right out, nothing sticks to that hard slick plastic.

[@michaelsites1498]

I can’t help but think that this application has to be better than any house wrap Tyvec Commercial D or anything I’ve seen.... No nails to cause failure water/air penetration!!!!

[@zachfisher5594]

Can it be applied to ICF block?

[@peterkizer6163]

Water proof and air tight - really hard to beat. I see Travis' cost estimate below, which is good to know (thanks Travis)!

[@johndallara3257]

My dad used to use asphalt cutback dirt cheap and worked well

[@dhollm]

Thoughts on using the first two products to seal joints & around windows etc., but then use regular housewrap for the rest of the wall areas? Particularly for window sill flashing that could make a very practical and perhaps more cost-competetive combination. Thanks

[@jakeb5815]

Absolutely! We do that all the time. Check out the details at the link below where we show exactly how to do it. www.prosoco.com/r-guard-installation-guidelines/

[@modernflyfisher5091]

I've​ used the first two products (pink and red) then finished the house with Henry blue skin. But the Blue skin is kinda a pain. Now we use the complete Prosoco system. I like it a lot.

[@billderinbaja3883]

The problem is how you would overlap the Tyvek with R-Guard at windows... for Tyvek to work, you have to do overlaps starting from bottom to top... at windows, you have to wrap through sill, jambs & head in proper sequence to shed water. I don't see a good way for fluid applied and sheet applied system to work together.

[@workisfun...2438]

Great video! my question is the longevity of the product. I envision it like a butyl roof coating that as we all know, over time dries and gets brittle and with the movement of the house would it crack and allow possible water penetration?

[@jakeb5815]

While the product is designed to live much longer than we do, I guess the jury is still out on that. We have had it in performance for over 10 years to date and its still doing its thing just like the day it was installed. It is the Air/WRB on the Bullitt Center in Seattle where the expected life is 250+ years. Check back with us in 235 years and we'll provide an update!

[@sergiocastro1429]

Have you ever seen house wrap after 10 years, sometimes just touching it makes it fall apart. Rather this than wrap. If you have good siding and windows it shouldn't be a concern. It's more there as a last resort. And remember this is not being exposed to the sun like a roof because of whatever exterior finish it'll have. I'm sure it has very good expansion rates, more than wood. If the house moves more than this product can handle, then you've got a more serious problem than a cracked product. Either it was fastened improperly or the foundation research and execution was done poorly.

[@billderinbaja3883]

@@sergiocastro1429: Tyvek has been around since the early 60's and yes, the early stuff didn't last long when in improper contact with Cedar and other siding material. Dupont has worked out the kinks in the last 50 years. I would expect properly installed Tyvek, under properly matched and installed siding, to last for 100 years.

[@hybridamerica]

We do this - but we use silicone products. We also coat the roofing plywood before the finish roofing is installed. If it rains before the TPO or Torch-Down is applied - not one drop of water gets through.

[@eightfigs3508]

Is this for a flat roof or all roofs?

[@hybridamerica]

@@eightfigs3508 - For flat roofs. That's all we do - though we could do framed roofs... there just aren't any around here..

[@believerscc]

Glad I found your channel. I'm about to double the size of my duplex by pitching my roof because my flat roof and side shingles leaked unknown for years to the point that I have to reframe 15 feet of exterior bathroom wall due to studs and sheating rotting in my hand.

[@SpinyNormanDinsdale]

Couldn't I just spray my house with Flex Seal?

[@NarwahlGaming]

BUT, WAIT! THERE'S MORE! Spray ONE house with Flex Seal™ - and we'll send you a second house to spray for just Shipping and Handling!

[@Ariccio123]

For like a million $ 😉

[@VertigoGTI]

Only if your house has a lot of damage

[@stevepailet8258]

@@VertigoGTI only works if you cut the house in half

[@sprinkhole58]

But wait... THERE'S MORE!

[@zorc243]

Here in Norway we call the backer rod for sausage trim. When I was working in the northern part of the country tho, they called it cat bowel.

[@huntermac8970]

I enjoyed the video but wish you would have asked about any potential issues with nail penetrations from siding install and UV resistance when house is waiting on siding. Also, is the product sprayable?

[@toddr3644]

On their product page, they allow 12 months of UV exposure, state it self-seals around nail penetrations, and that CAT5 is not sprayable.

[@edicnoba]

Protocol Spray Wrap MVP is their spray applied product. Cat 5 is the roller applied version. In either case it is important to meet the substrate cleanliness and mils thickness requirements to work properly. Both of these products and Polywall versions of same perform infinitely better than Tyvek wrap (which, further has been penetrated 10,000 by slap staples at installation)

[@andrewpage146]

best practice isnt spending money on cool new products, its keeping an eye on your laborers... I've been building for over 20years and have never had a "call back" that was something I personally installed...I've worked with other builders and have observed so much poor work but the builders never physically inspect their "laborers"

[@roflstomps324]

Yep. When our home was being built I literally had a contractor moan to the jobsite manager that I was 'there' again. Having built a number of homes for a company, I quickly learned to never trust home building companies. The one day I didn't come out (kid was sick), the next day I am checking out the island substructure in the kitchen. Down inside the framing there was about a dozen empty water bottles and coke cans. I made those fuckers clean it out.

[@kalijasin]

@Andrew page, if they didn’t skimp-on by using osb there would be No need for products like this.

[@lavrentichudakoff2519]

@@kalijasin Zip system and membrane tape works great for me. Just make sure windows are flashed and installed properly. I'm always looking over sub-contractors shoulders during window install.

[@jeffmathers355]

Hey Matt. How would you compare this or other liquid applied water barriers to the peal-and-stick or zip system? I would love to use this but is it worth the extra cost?

[@stewmeat9261]

Will this prevent STD's ?

[@roryhassett9581]

This sounds like a fantastic product...because it works as an air sealer, AND water & vapour barrier! It sounds like it would be perfect for building in conjunction with an R-2000 spec home. The only issue I could potentially see with using such an efficient product as an air sealer, is getting good clean air exchange from within the house to the outside.

[@MD-cd7em]

Rory Hassett RIGHT!!

[@japansh]

This system looks very nice. Curious why there is no R-Guard for roofs?

[@rockcrusher7000]

another gr8 vid Matt , I appreciate the links , all I have to do now is decide which product to use for window flashing , tooo many choices :-)

[@chasegreen5077]

Great video, Thanks Matt! What's their take on a rainscreen? Would you apply straight to the dried membrane? Also do all of the sheathing nail holes have to be sealed with the Joint/Seam Filler prior to the Cat5 product?

[@deronthomas7904]

Will this work with ICF?

[@nunya7065]

Wow, that's cool too. I gotta replace a bathroom window soon and may do this if not too expensive. She's really cheap. I like that better than just house wrap.

[@benjaminslayton4335]

Would this work well on a subfloor in a bathroom?

[@andygullion5182]

We have been using liquid or brush applied membranes in the tile industry for a long long time. I would think these systems and creating a drainage plane would be pretty effective if people will be through applying them.

[@nipper0012]

Cool product. What happens if you put a nail in after you put it up. Does it seal around the nail?

[@jakeb5815]

Absolutely! You'll notice that even the cured product stays sticky. That's an unreacted portion of the material that will chemically bond around the fastener to hold air and water out. Better than the compression gasket effect you get with most "self sealing" membranes!

[@jumbojoe55]

Wow, sounds like you can use it on roof sheathing?

[@sergiocastro1429]

Yes advantech has roof sheathing with it already sprayed by the manufacturer. It does a much better job than house wrap, I guarantee it. If the roof shingles are done right, the nails shouldn't ever be an issue. Same with siding, this product acts as a final defense and it also seals air gaps, making for a tighter home.

[@CAPCOM784]

@@jakeb5815 So I'm guessing it's not good for skin contact?

[@dhollm]

Why use shims at the window sill flange but then solidly caulk the bottom of the window? Doesn't that defeat the drainage-promoting effect of the shims? Thanks

[@seanmuller2999]

David Hollman looks like maybe the fella is just caulking the inside of the window and that may be the "air stop" that Matt refers to at the very end of vijeo as serving dual purpose by acting as a back dam to force any water that may leak through the window to flow out via the shimmed channel on the exterior of the wall/window.

[@dhollm]

Doh, you're right, he was caulking over the backer rod on the inside. not the outside. Thanks!

[@johnwayne2103]

Nice stuff. I have not seen one builder where I live ever do this. it's OSB, plastic wrap then on with the brick facing. Ta da! 800k please. 10 years latter they replace the roof, someone to redo the brick veneer, plumbing and electrical issues. As someone once said "these houses were meant to be sold not lived in" Pure shit. I will never buy a mass produced home. I have seen so much shadiness in that business. With the hosuing market in my area recovering they are back to the same crap work, unlicensed, illegal workers and inspectors who sign off on that crap. Oh and they have been raising the taxes on my home by 15%!

[@Justicejamesb]

Yes, couldn't agree more! I was fired from a framing job so they could hire three illegals!!! Anyone buying a "new home," ask to see all the licenses of EVERYONE that worked on that home, it's so damn common anymore for people to not be licensed. Then, just like you say, do shit work!

[@mikewidget7610]

My reaction exactly. This condition is a disaster waiting to happen if the exterior envelope can't expel moisture. Vapor control is a 2-way issue.

[@johnlee7085]

@Adam Colley They said it breathes like gore-tex. Water molecules are bigger than water vapor. Vapor passes through, but water does not.

[@loganpatterson4674]

mike widget in the south the inside is dry since its conditioned

[@grendelum]

Adam Colley - I built a net-zero house with structurally insulated panels (SIPs) and Prosoco all around (among other tech)... the house is indeed air tight to a terrifying degree. Thing is, that’s on purpose as CO2 and water vapor levels are constantly monitored and fresh air is brought in through an energy recovery ventilator (ERV) and dehumidifier (I’m in SW Florida). The house I replaced needed 7 tons of AC running 24/7 for a good portion of the year, now I have a 2 ton variable refrigerant flow (VRF) unit that is actually bigger than I need. So yeah, it’s always 72.2° inside regardless of conditions outside... a 3-phase PowerWall would let me be completely disconnected from the grid.

[@ClarksAddress]

Matt, how does this compare to the polywall, especially in SW FL.?

[@renodeify]

How elastic is the finish product?

[@rtheprizeisright7323]

Mr. Risinger could this be used in a shower enclosure wall? Sorry if this is a dumb question as I know you are a very busy man.

[@jeffreyferguson83]

I would like to See a cost breakdown of this product as well as cost difference between another product that achieves the same results. Is stuff flammable after application

[@tiendong7912]

Great shows! Do you know how much for 5 gallons as in your show?

[@jonathanklecka291]

Matt Risinger, I have been following your videos for a bit now. I am getting ready to remodel a 1200 sq ft 1960 farm house for my family to live in. In your opinion, how does this compare to ZIP? Thanks!

[@jerrymcintire7902]

If the existing sheathing is intact, this is less work and lower cost overall.

[@rheacecontracting]

How do you use backerod and air dam when you have shims, which prevents for a continuous run of backer rod and air dam

[@jerrymcintire7902]

The air dam product is like caulk, it will flow around shims. And where there are shims, don't need backer rod.

[@homeaudiobasics]

can this system be used to seal a sub floor inside the home to keep a potential water leak from spreading to the truss cavity and other areas of the house?

[@BrobMaryland]

Brian Abington use red guard. They sell it at Home Depot. One coat for crack isolation and 2 for moisture membrane.

[@patdowney9442]

Brian, I've used the FastFlash under dishwashers, under sinks, toilets, tubs, to protect the floors and subfloors. This product is waterproof.

[@MonzaRacer]

Personally for a bathroom id rather install Schluter Kerdi and Ditra to waterproof the bathroom floor. I know of one builder that uses marine grade plywood in wet areas then the Schluter products and proper water control and even after an earthquake forced bathroom off square(which they found a bit later while repairing a different walls damage) the bathroom had a pipe break for a different reason and because the whole bathroom had integrated drain system it never migrated to rest of house and when disassembling bathroom to find and fix plumbing, and structure damage that was hidden the bathroom had ZERO water penetration. While bathrooms cot owner extra $5k to build estimate the fact was all the materials came up enough they pulled sheeting screws out removed plywood, did repairs and actually reused about 75% of sheeting. Incredible products that work, they were even able to reinstall shower pan system partially as damage wasn't found on initial earthquake inspection (owner was compensated for earthquake damages enough that he had bit left over after fixes so unrelated remodel screw damage to a pex a pipe caused water leak. Owner came home to about 1 in of water in bathroom but proper materials and special water barrier at door for his son in wheelchair kept all water in bathroom and going down drains. They had an inexpensive vanity installed and contractor nicked a pipe, it breaks and water ran for 1 1/2 days.

[@elau1004]

Can we just use the liquid membrane to fill the gaps and only one single material instead of two? Or can i use just the CAT5 air barrier membrane to flash the rough window opening with several coats? I am thinking of moving through a project quick and not have switch material or tools.

[@eduardodedios8213]

Great video, who carries their product?

[@user-ne6gm8zq2k]

Do the inside corners of the wood shrink and crack the waterproofing ?

[@roflstomps324]

My thoughts exactly and yes, it does. It takes about a year for a house to 'settle'. In the end, nothing is water tight. This is close but no cigar.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

I have never seen this system before. I imagine that the risk with it is that it works too well. Is it popular in Florida? it seems it should be.

[@kpk6340]

Will the R-guard stick to bricks and mason? I will be removing vintage steel windows, then adding a wooden frame exactly like your demo. Difference is, my wooden frame will be resting on bricks and cement as yours rest on wood.

[@cjjames83]

assuming my set up is identical to the this mock up with the window being recessed in . when installing the window do i fluid apply the the bottom of that window as well. i usually leave it open and seal the inside so water can escape.

[@pauleohl]

What is the perm value for this coating?

[@nathanmrudd]

R-Guard Cat 5: 14 perms (ASTM E 96 Wet Cup) prosoco.com/Content/Documents/Product/RG_C5_PDS_071921_C.pdf R-Guard Spray Wrap MVP: 25 perms at 10 mils (ASTM E 96 Wet Cup) prosoco.com/Content/Documents/Product/RG_SW_MVP_PDS_031721_C.pdf

[@lawrencebeeler6273]

Wednesday September 16th 2020 I wish we had a quarter inch of rain today here in clackamas county oregon

[@rtmaples]

I am buying a shed cabin on skids. It comes with the exterior dried in. Painted siding and widows installed. My question is in this case would it be beneficial to use product on inside around widows,doors, bottom plate and wood tongue and grove sub straight?

[@greg925911]

how dose this compare to Grace products for new home construction

[@SJ-gd6bo]

I'm unsure if this has been asked or stated, but it looks similar to red guard? What's the difference?

[@hellobrandonscott]

From a cost standpoint, would it be comparable to home wrap? I have a 900 sq ft, one-story home I'm about to re-sheathe.

[@gracilism]

I just got Tyvek and fluid applied quotes and fluid applied and fluid applied was 2.5 times more. But for a 900 sq ft house the difference could be worth it to yo. Probably less than $1000.

[@WallStreetBeggar]

It cost significantly more for sure. CAT5 is about $500-600 a bucket and it doesn't really go that far. Depending on what sheathing you got. OSB is a rougher surface and takes up far more material. A 5 gal bucket probably gets you 400 or so sq ft of surface area to meet the minimum thickness. It's more of a high end product for high value homes trying to meet passive house standards. The only difference is that once it's on, your house is water tight. It is almost stupid proof which House Warps and flashing tapes aren't. It's stupid proof as an air barrier too.

[@jakeb5815]

I like to call it "idiot resistant" but I like stupid proof too! haha. If Cat 5 is too expensive then you can look into our other product called Spray Wrap MVP. Much lower cost and easy spray or roll installation. Great if you have warm dry weather. If rain or sub freezing temps are a concern, stick with Cat 5. www.prosoco.com/products/r-guard-spray-wrap-mvp

[@ArneJohanssonMpls]

Awesome video Jake. I live in Minneapolis Minnesota and it gets super cold in the winter. How cold can it be when you apply at it and do you recommend it for super cold and hot climates?

[@xavierlopez6673]

Can you build my new house, definitely stand by your product!

[@vettracer85]

on older homes where sheetrock is only removed, can this waterproof product be applied on studs and inner walls or will it cause problems?

[@jakemouser2214]

Can fluid applied flashings be used inside as well? If you have a bath window, can you apply this inside and out and apply thinset and tile on top of this on the interior?

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

For that situation you would want to use something like Redgard. It's designed to stop water entirely whereas the product he is showing allows vapor through.

[@mdupar]

Would this be good on the outside of basement walls, or are there other/better things to use for that?

[@Corkfish1]

Could you cover an LVL beam for extra protection?

[@aramilnegron5040]

What would you suggest for a poured concrete flat roof waterproofer? Home located in Caribbean.

[@charlesmccullough1365]

Matt after the fluid air barrier is applied do tou still put a vapor barrier on before your siding?

[@craighearn747]

I used Proseco products to water proof products a brick commercial build and it was great.

[@whowawoo]

The obvious question, mold, with a waterproof exterior where would moisture go? Or is this only done near windows?

[@wildswan221]

Condensation from dew point and interior moisture will end up on the OSB/etc layer. But it’s a tricky concept to explain stateside

[@SamuraiJack44]

How does Prosoco R-Guard compare to Poly-Wall's Blue Barrier Liquid Wrap 2300?

[@buildshow]

Similar Technology but different formats. I’d recommend trying each to see what you like best. Prosoco has a great 3 step process. PolyWall simplies with just two. Each with different viscosity and workability. Get a sample of each.

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

@@buildshow Matt - what would you use on your home? Please don't limit choices to whatever sponsors you have. I have a hard time watching these vids when they are sponsors - you never give a clear explanation when the vid is paid by the sponsor, or f iit's an obligation you feel since they are a sponsor, or if it's something you truly believe in and use in your own professional work.

[@askthisoldtileman5401]

Matt been looking at your building methods. Keep up the good work.a wealth of knowledge to the public. I myself do quality work.i have done 100s of Shower, buy doing it according to the ntca.hand book.still doing the mud and lathe work.and big on waterproofing.please show a shower on one of your job.how you like to see your shower is done. Live in the dallas area.

[@BrianBriCurInTheOC]

This product seems more detailed oriented than the Blue PolyWall product also covered on The BUILD SHOW YT Channel. Why are there three separate products on this company’s product and only two for PolyWall?

[@trentslay255]

geocell makes a fiber reinforced product as well. how does it compare?

[@Guffb]

Could you just paint over this a the finished exterior wall?

[@scottwebber652]

I can see this being code at some point. Price / sq ft ?

[@tylerwingard5411]

Greetings, Matt. Are we going to see you use this on a job in the near future?I'd be curious to see comparisons of this product to Huber Zip System and maybe even Carlisle 705 that you often recommend.

[@buildshow]

+Tyler Wingard coming soon. Very much liking this system

[@rluna327]

How does it compare to Polywall?

[@gateway8833]

We have seen peel and stick and liquid application, what is the preferred method.

[@buildshow]

+Abby Babby depends. I like them both depending on the situation.

[@David_Mash]

Air and water sealed but not vapor sealed? Details?

[@chasecoffey6692]

Would a roll on followed by mineral wool outside insulation be a good combination for a DIY'er?

[@ducoh2093]

they are both products on the highest quality side of the market, so yes! However, make sure you use a mineral wool that is rated for exterior insulation, and make sure you have a cavity between your siding and mineral wool big enough to make sure any water can dry out. But i am sure after 2 years you already figured that out.

[@mattacosta4802]

I've used this system before on a house I've built. It's good but a pain in the as$ to do. The stuff is super thick, doesn't spread hardly at all, and takes forever to do per window opening. Pro tip: Your better off getting a fluid applied system, even if you have to apply 2 coats, would be 10x faster and easier.

[@mattacosta4802]

Fluid meaning...spray or roller/brush. But preferably spray. Could know out all the windows in the time it takes to properly do 2 windows with this system.

[@RM-ub4sl]

So is using backer rod and Air Dam sufficient for insulating a window or is that step left out? Most installers and others on the web suggest using low expanding foam around the window. In this install he just uses backer rod and air dam. On a window install with at least 3 inches of window to the inside, is it worth trying to fill some of the void with LE foam @R5/inch or will that just get in the way of the system for letting the water drain out from around the window. You often mention that all windows will eventually leak. I'm wondering if stopping air movement around a window is the best way to "insulate" it and then using a product that has some sort of R value just making it a little better?

[@AnthonyBrusca]

Low expansion spray foam will eventually crack and create an air-leak, negating all benefits from the insulation. They also don't fill the void, just on the back so if it leaks, the water can make its way out.

[@TheBazbone]

2 questions: Does this require any mesh to reinforce? And what type of blower door test numbers improvements are realized

[@johnlee7085]

They said at least one of the products was fiber reinforced.

[@uoohoo99]

Can this product be used on concrete block as waterproofing? And can it be painted?

[@buildshow]

Yes and No

[@craftychinurse5240]

Can this Product be used inside shed?

[@alonzomartii]

This is just good for bathroom and kitchen.

[@ortofoncape]

Does this not seal moisture into the plywood once applied ? How does the wood breathe after application?

[@sergiocastro1429]

It still breathes a little. Remember, there are two sides to the sheathing. The inside humidity should be dealt with accordingly. if the sheathing is still leaking to the inside somebody did something wrong. Also remember that the sheathing isn't the final exterior finish. The siding or whatever is put on should also be a water deterrent. This is for that just in case factor and to protect from high humidity flow inside as well as making a tighter home.

[@johnlee7085]

It breathes like goretex.

[@Skfkf1393a]

How is this going to dry the cavity from the moisture created in the house?

[@johnlee7085]

It breathes, like goretex.

[@joedirt2207]

How do you flash in the bottom of the window when doing stucco?

[@daneapeterson]

What is the perm rating on this stuff?

[@nathanmrudd]

R-Guard Cat 5: 14 perms (ASTM E 96 Wet Cup) prosoco.com/Content/Documents/Product/RG_C5_PDS_071921_C.pdf R-Guard Spray Wrap MVP: 25 perms at 10 mils (ASTM E 96 Wet Cup) prosoco.com/Content/Documents/Product/RG_SW_MVP_PDS_031721_C.pdf

[@billderinbaja3883]

How would the cost of R-Guard compare to Tyvek, for both material and labor?

[@augustreil]

Tyvek is beyond cheaper. R-Guard is over 500.00 bucks for a 5 gallon pail, which I believe covers 500 square ft.

[@jumperjackflash]

This is like Red Guard!

[@jakeb5815]

But way better and WAY healthier for the installer and the environment!

[@jhealy3110]

Are AirBarrier and Prosoco's R Guard waterproofing system a one-or-the-other choice? Have you ever use both on the same job (seems like that would be cost prohibitive)? If not, when to choose one over the other?

[@fordrac1ng81]

They're different products for different applications.

[@ryanchaffee7243]

What is the cost per sq ft and lin ft for the sealants?

[@trickyrick8621]

Very expensive $1.50 plus sqft just for material. For residential to me it makes more sense to build with ICF

[@anthonytodd5308]

how did he not get any on him?

[@chasingperfection942]

Can this be used bro waterproof brick

[@dougwang9211]

How is it water prove and air tight, but still allows vapor to pass through?

[@johnlee7085]

The same way goretex is.

[@RiverPlaid]

Awesome content Matt.🌸

[@gw2macken757]

This product had me smiling the whole time.

[@sprinkhole58]

You should use it in a well ventilated area...

[@ajamudaniel]

Would it work on a concrete house

[@danbiss87]

The problem im seeing these days is over sealing a house. It has to be applied perfectly! If water finds its way into the home then it will have no way to escape, and that one little leak will turn into a major problem. Older houses lasted as long as they have because the houses were able to breath. These newer applications are a cause for concern yet are not.

[@sergiocastro1429]

If done incorrectly yes, but a true professional will know how to do it properly. This is more of a last true water defense. Technically the way you are supposed to do it, the windows, doors, siding and roofing shouldn't ever leak. But if they do, the builder makes it to where it should still be diverted out. I find this easier to install and more fail proof than the old house wrap and tape method. You should be more nervous about the old methods I've had to fix hundreds of times. I find this more reassuring than the Russian roulette of let it get wet and dry out and hope mildew rot and termites don't win. You can leave a gap between the sheathing and siding if you really want to let it "breathe". As far as the interior goes I'd rather control the "breathing" on my terms.

[@danbiss87]

@@sergiocastro1429 I agree with you there when its comes waterproofing the exterior. However, when it comes to the house breathing i'm referring to the insulated space. The buffer zone/insulated walls need to be able to breathe to prevent moisture lock. This system will work when foam is used, however if using this system with fiberglass insulation then the air cavity will cause the moisture which happens when cooler air from outside meets warmer air inside or vise versa, that moisture needs to escape and can't. So its important for builders to choose materials that compliment each-other rather than against

[@johnlee7085]

@@danbiss87 They said it breathes, though you are correct that overselling buildings became a problem a few decades ago. Professionals now know that you have to have some air exchange to have a healthy building.

[@peterxyz3541]

Here’s a question: of all these roll-on or spray-on house sealer, what is the cheapest and best value system? +80% of America does not have +400,000/y income for a +500,000.00 house with a high end sealing product.

[@arcataslacker]

I'm planning on applying Prosoco Spray Wrap MVP onto my sheathing when I replace my siding next year. The spray wrap is much more reasonably priced, around 150 for 5 gallons. I have tongue and groove sheathing so I will be applying The joint and seam filler along every board. That will increase the cost a bit, but I think the efficiency to my home will be in a good place for the next couple years. From my understanding, this system does qualify for the home efficiency tax credit, and you will certainly want to install an ERV in your home as well to make sure you're bringing in fresh air and getting rid of the old stale air. Takes a lot of time and effort to bring a house built in the 30s up to modern standards but a little bit of work every year will get us there.

[@anthonypadilla8742]

Why only a 10 year warranty whats the point of the product

[@francescolemma5582]

I'm so confused.. I spend hours watching videos trying to learn stuff to build my own tiny house. So here they are using two/three different products to get it air + water tight? With the method shown in this video, does he need to paint the entire plywood surface all around the exterior of the house? I'm trying to compare this to the Zip R-Sheating + Liquid Flash system. Ultimately the result is the same? Pros/Cons? Thanks in advance to whom will help shed some light..

[@gorrozolla]

Francesco Lemma I’m also building a small house right now, and as far as I can tell, none of these new products are needed if you take the time, and layer your housewrap/flex flashing/flashing, and then siding properly. The irony of these products are, no house being built now in most North American companies, regardless of cost, are meant to last more than 30 years without major failure of some system. It’s all in how you build, and quality beats quantity. Build your own house and take your time and respect the layers of the building envelope and it will be A-ok!

[@sergiocastro1429]

@@gorrozolla that's the problem with builders nowadays is that they build to sell not to last. These products are meant for those wanting to build those 100+ year homes. If the waterproofing membrane is adhered to the sheathing, there is no gap for water to get trapped between the membrane and sheathing thus making a more true waterproofing. I've done hundreds of rehabs and fix to homes and buildings, most problems come up from the waterproofing being compromised. House wrap breaks down if it's continuously getting wet from poor exterior finish. Window tape loses it's adhesive properties and aren't even adhered anymore. Window tape also has to be cut. There are so many places things could go wrong. Doing it this way creates a monolithic membrane that is fully continuous even to the window sills; avoided having that failure between house wrap to tape, tape to wood. Also house wrap is extremely leaky, just think of all those nails that tore through from the siding. Now water gets trapped behind house wrap causing rot and mildew. Moisture draws termites. Moisture breaks down the wrap and tape. I could go on forever about this and just poor workmanship. To me, house wrap doesn't last 30 years even if installed perfect, but I'm sure this would. About the sheathing, this layer isn't meant to be the final exterior finish. If you really want it to last look up ways to create a gap between the sheathing and exterior finish to get true breathable layer for water drying in case of exterior finish compromise.

[@c4n4d4]

System looks very labor intensive.

[@adb99999999999]

Does it really look any more labor intensive than doing the same thing with a self-adhering flashing tape though?

[@WirelessHotShot]

Absolutely

[@renderwood]

Made me think if he used to curse a lot in the past, and replaced all those with absolutely ;)

[@josephhummel6200]

one of the issues is people don't install "insert any product here" properly - the products aren't typically faulty its the installation. This would increase labor costs 10x and maybe it's the same. I see lots of issues with this.

[@aaronpops4108]

where can I buy this product?

[@ulfedlund884]

- England used to have the pipes and pluming outside the house ... easier to fix when froze ... !

[@bobjoatmon1993]

And it froze because it was outside