How to Winterize Your Irrigation System [Blowout Method]

[@kevinterry5746]

Thanks Rob! Excellent video. It saved me when unexpected cold weather hit us in early November. I borrowed a compressor and job was done in 60 minutes.

[@user-my5ey6ow7m]

there is a lot of bad info in this video. read further down in the comments

[@markeadie2421]

This was fantastic! Very well explained, and covered multiple variations of equipment to help as many of us as possible. Thank you!

[@user-my5ey6ow7m]

there is a lot of bad info in this video. read further down in the comments for examples

[@shutyoassup8377]

As a professional irrigation company owner here in Illinois we tend to get some freezing temperatures so in the first week of October we start winterazations and we take a Ingersoll rand towable air compressor which gets the job done correctly and in 15 or 20 you have the job done depending on how many zones you may have

[@billstrang8770]

Steve had the same problem Unscrew back flo top get a course thread cap and put on it make sure you have the right thread on cap

[@vic8189]

My “pro” used to connect to the test port that’s down stream of the BFP, seeing as that’s the only place to connect in my system. Now I save the $75 and do it my self.

[@ОляПолякова-х4с]

Прекрасное видио!!!Если бы таких было много - то ю туб был бы сокровищницей техничской информации.

[@nancydenver2200]

Thanks for the video. efficient yet had good level of detail.

[@craigorlikowski2507]

What if the air bladder on that unit (back flow preventer) that you connect your air compressor to keeps opening up and doesn't allow the air to go into the lines?

[@dickyleung5726]

Thanks Rob for the video. At 1:38 mark you showed being able to do this with a small pancake compressor, albeit more time. Can you please elaborate, because I've struggled with such unit. Every time the tank is depleted, it never builds enough volume to empty the water lines and the air has escaped already while the compressor needs to charge up the tank (if I'm describing correctly). Any tip would be appreciated. Thank you!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

I use this and a 100 hose. Your lines might be too long, try a bigger compressor or add a expansion tank. Remover to close zone while building up the air storage

[@larryhall7998]

Had the same problem, I put a shut off valve on the hose assemble so I did not have to disconnected the hose

[@alexrea6338]

Answered all my questions! Thanks a bunch!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Irrigation system "Blowout" step by step

[@Foreshay]

Hi Rob, thanks for this video. I'm trying to do this as described, but air keeps leaking out of the top. Seems to be coming out of the black part on top of the back flow preventer. Any ideas? Thanks!

[@paulj2204]

I’ve had that happen. Take off the cover of the back flow preventer and you’ll see the pin that raises up with the valve. Clamp onto that with a pair of vice grips to keep it sealed and you’ll be all set.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Sometimes the rubber. Ring needs replacing

[@ramtoughsoccer]

Agree to remove the upper cover, then I took the spring that was above the seal piece and moved it below the seal to push up and seal that opening, it works a charm and allows me to pressurize the system. Learned this after MUCH frustration and trial/error. Otherwise yes the air just escapes through this EASILY. Just remember to put it back to its place so it can operate naturally in the spring!

[@jeffdavidson7860]

Hi and thank you for providing the instructions for blowing out the system. I have a problem. I attached my air compressor and ran it. I blew out one zone but then air started to come out of the BFP. No other zones would clear. What did I do wrong and how do I correct this? Thank you in advance for your help. FYI I am using a big air compressor. It reaches 200 psi. I hooked it up to the hose bib.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@jeffdavidson7860 is the BFP closed

[@jeffdavidson7860]

I believe it is. I see a ball valve below it. I will close it again and try to do the blowout again. If that does not work, any ideas on how to close it?

[@jeffdavidson7860]

I turned off the valve to the BFP. Still no pressure going to the sprinklers. I tried several zones. Nothing. I'm connected to the silcock. Can we FaceTime video call? I'm glad to pay for your time.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@jeffdavidson7860 do you have a rain sensor on the system

[@husker1624]

Great video! What PSI do I set the compressor at?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Probably all way up - with smaller compressors you need to do this multiple times.

[@BroadwayJoe49]

Hi Rob, when running the air compressor to blow out each zone, do you leave the test cock open (parallel to the pipe) or should they be closed? Thanks!

[@rurydominguez]

God bless you sir! 🤙🏼

[@amandafeack3100]

What pressure do you set the compressor at for the flexible pipe?

[@FrostTrunks]

50 or less, is what I read

[@danielhausbeck9976]

That red electric Husky brand air compressor doesn't do 100 CFM. It might do 5 CFM. There is no way that that cute little electric engine is producing anymore than 6 CFM. 6 CFM is would be a liberal number. I bet you that it takes several minutes for that air tank to fill up. Am I right?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Yes on recovery

[@rfoster60]

Why do you unscrew the top of the BVP?

[@mariajuliaturner9232]

Hi thanks helped me a lot your video.

[@ОляПолякова-х4с]

Thanks!!!!This is Good good Good Video!

[@trevors8577]

Pretty sure that air compressor is about 10x less capable of 80-100 cfm, more like 5 to 7 cfm @90 psi judging by the small compressing unit on top. That and it's only 110 volt and not hardwired to a 220 or higher voltage system.

[@nickjohnson9704]

I was going to say the same thing!! My gas beast is only 24 CFM. That Husky is probably 6 cfm @ 90.

[@grunderlyme]

Yes. I was going to say. I have the EXACT compressor. it is rated at 5-9 cfm I believe @ 90. I've done dozens of SBO's with this and it would take over an hour to do a 6-zone blow-out AFTER set up, meeting with the customer, and draining; and would never keep the heads up to the point of blowing the system dry, having to let the compressor recharge more than once for each zone. I bought a new one which pushes 21 CFM at 90, which is, in my opinion the absolute minimum in order to keep those stems up and blow the water out instead of the air blowing over the water level in the irrigation lines, hence preventing from the stems dropping prematurely. Also, this guy doesn't know what he's talking about when it comes to introducing the air into the system with the valves open, so as to prevent "damage to the valves." My question for this idiot is how he is able to charge the backflow via closing the bonnet/poppet without having the downstream valve closed? Sometimes it will charge, but most often it does not, creating a loud fluttering noise out the top past the bonnet. You know, when it comes to charging the system with water one must have the valves closed then open them up systematically so that he can effectively charge the system. But according to this guy, it doesn't apply in the case of compressed air? LOL! Also, air will not damage a closed shut off valve unless it is a PSI greater than 120, in which case one runs the risk of melting plastic/rubber seals, that is, so long as it has been held at static pressure for a little while---even then, according to physics, once the air is released, the pressure drops dramatically thereby cooling the temp of the air, sometimes less than atmospheric temp as the air pressure temp as been allowed to dissipate while static. This is why some people will see ice crystals form after draining a tank. Also, I like how this guy taps into the test cock downstream from the check valve. One must tap the hose into the system as upstream as possible, especially upstream from the check valve. Reason is that the spring loaded bonnet inside the check valve maintains a positive pressure differential upstream-downstream, and it will blow air back into the back flow thereby trapping water upstream from the bonnet inside the check valve. In other words, if he blows out downstream from the check valve, he will not sufficiently evacuate the water from the check valve (being the most vulnerable part to freeze damage)as water can still be trapped even after draining. While draining the system usually is sufficient (for Colorado. I dunno about the NE), it will never blow this part out dry. Also he forgets to mention the proper PSI range (40-60) for effective blow-out without blowing shit apart. I've seen guys rocket heads 30 ft in the air at 80psi LOL, not to mention that quick-connect fittings are too restrictive to air flow. I just hook up 1/4 NPT straight pipe.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Guys ..... your right, my error. Thx for pointing that out

[@rubenpena2925]

I have bfp like you show in this video but my question is what do you did on it before blow the lines, minute 4:19 in video

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Manuel Medina open small drain valves and drained

[@rubenpena2925]

I know, but you turn to the left the top of the bfp like you unscrewed that part (i’m sorry for my english) do you disassembly the bfp?

[@rubenpena2925]

I did what you show in the video but when I try blow the lines the air come out for the top of the bfp, I need to do something else?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Manuel Medina you have to isolate the BFP valve by closing the ball valves and direct the air into the field

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Manuel Medina no I blow it out and then isolate it so the air will enter the system in the yard

[@MyAntonio43]

To the point. Nice video

[@phasst87]

I have a backflow preventer that looks exactly like the one in the video with the rust colored paint on it. I hooked up my compressor just as you described and opened the valves to the irrigation system and all the air goes right out the main valve at the top of the BFP. I unscrewed the big plastic cap and everything looks fine in there. What am I doing wrong?

[@RyanStille]

I had this same problem recently. I solved it by leaving the valve to the irrigation system shut. Then applied air into the BFP etc. Since the valve to the irrigation system was shut, there was plenty of pressure available to force the BFP closed. Then once it was closed (you'll hear a noise as it closes) I was able to open the irrigation system valve to continue blowing out the system.

[@phasst87]

Great tip! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@phasst87]

I agree. I have since soldered a new valve ahead of the entire assembly so all the air goes directly to the system and not through the BFP at all.

[@mikejordan9903]

thank you!

[@stevend9053]

All the air just blows out through the back flow preventer when I try to connect the air at either test cock location. Any suggestions?

[@Jake-st5mm]

Try taking a pair of needle nose pliers and grab the plunger inside the back flow preventer. Pull it upwards to help create the seal.

[@kennethpappas]

what psi do you blow the lines out at

[@ConcordCarpenter]

110

[@JLa2r]

@@ConcordCarpenter 50 psi max for poly lines, 80 psi max for PVC... 110 psi is going to rupture your lines!

[@RyanStille]

Great video, thanks.

[@grunderlyme]

Um...80-100 CFM, really? I have the exact compressor. It is 5-9 CFM at 90-40 PSI respectively. Good for running an impact maybe, but not blow-outs. Compressors that push 80-100 CFM are more like the diesel tow-behinds, which of course can do your 2" mains, and 1" poly lines greater than 200 linear feet. Also, you should instruct your viewers what the critical PSI range is (40-60) for blow-outs. Otherwise, people will be blowing their manifolds a part and rocketing heads out the ground!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Gorsuch Landscapes your absolutely right, my error. Thx for pointing that out, great advice on psi thx

[@nickjohnson9704]

Right!!! Not sure I've ever seen an 80 CFM, but I know all the 100 CFM's I've seen are tow behind, some are gas but mostly diesel. And I 2nd the 40-60 psi, I've always heard 50-80 depending on the type of pipe, so 40-60 is playing it safe.

[@AlloyDiesel]

Yep, I was shocked. 80-100 cfm! I was just pricing out 20 cfm compressors and they are 2 grand.

[@Professorintheweeds]

185 at 70 psi every fall

[@Professorintheweeds]

Some systems require 120 psi but I will stress even if the system can handle 120 psi 80 psi may move the water better than 120.

[@27neverlose]

Using a small compressor and connecting to a test port is so wrong for many reasons . Hire a pro it cost about $75 depending on the size of the system and have it done properly. This is how you will truly save a ton of money....

[@ConcordCarpenter]

+27neverlose What are you reasons?

[@27neverlose]

+A Concord Carpenter I know a lot of people winterize there own systems but here's just a couple of reasons why its not a good idea to use small air. 1)A small air compressor and hose usually will not offer enough CFM or volume of air to push water out of lower pockets from under ground pipes.It may also leave water in the elbow of sprinkler heads and crack or split both.There's many low pockets of water through out irrigation systems with poly pipes because of the way its installed ( pipe puller). 2) Forcing air thru a BFP can damage the O rings. Air should not be force thru BFP the repair kits cost almost as much as new BFP. When finishing up leave ball values partially open is great tip people should know. Most homeowner close them tight trapping water inside. Good luck

[@ConcordCarpenter]

+27neverlose - Thanks for the comment, Is there a particular size of CFM you recommend? I was using a 30 gallon tank connected to my workshop.

[@27neverlose]

+A Concord Carpenter We use Airman 185 CFM compressors with the hose ball value open 3/4 of the way. Great channel, just started watching some of your videos lately.

[@justincase8239]

Says the pro who wants your $75! As long as you get most of the water out, it will be fine. The remaining water will expand and contract within the pipe's length. You just don't want it full of water, so that when it freezes it expands outward, breaking pipes and valves.

[@seanchristie2497]

I'm not mature enough to watch this video 😂.

[@FourthRoot]

Pro tip. You can use your hot water tank as an air reservoir.

[@thomas2732]

Sooo confusing. Why can’t someone explain which screw or handle or whatever, you turn off first. And why? And what order? Explain what direction the water is. An explanation of how to do it correctly for people that don’t understand this. All my friends say the same thing. They watch these videos and are more confused.

[@SilvioAlcantara]

don't have a compressor :(

[@djneedles000]

I know this is educational but this sounds so dirty lol

[@greenbymeirrigationinc.1191]

a ton of money the average system winterization cost $75.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

+dan ferrigno not in my neck of the woods

[@PlumbDrumb]

It's one payment though, and you're set for blowouts for years without having some guy come fiddle with your pipes. I just need to find a good deal on an adequate compressor.

[@raaah]

maybe in your area but here in northern NJ it is min $200

[@Bigsteve0091]

What does it mean when the air is coming out of the back flow valve on top instead of the sprinklers?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

You didn’t turn of the valve to separate it