How & Why To Adjust The Headset On Your Bike | Maintenance Monday

[@gcntech]

What other maintenance videos would you like to see us make?

[@guest_informant]

General creaking. I think Si did one a while ago. You've probably done other ones since, but might be worth updating?

[@larsdohmen6796]

How ro clean and re-grease headset, bottom bracket and wheel bearings etc. By taking off the dust covers from the bearings and then cleaning and regreasing them

[@KenSmith-bv4si]

Alex how to replace wheel hub bearings, say I wanna upgrade to "ceramic" or swapping out a threaded DUB bottom bracket with a Ceramic Speed threaded bottom bracket

[@guest_informant]

Jobs you *really* should do every 6 months or so, say, eg remove and re-grease pedals, remove and treat seatpost to stop it seizing, etc. What are the simple jobs which have the potential to save you a major expense, potentially up to a new bike if, say, the seatpost is totally seized. I remove and re-grease pedals periodically about 6 months and this has turned a job which used to be very stressful into one which could not be more straightforward.

[@larsdohmen6796]

@@KenSmith-bv4si thats quite easy.... Tap the old bearing out if ots pressfit, then press the new one in

[@chones_]

This was such a clear, concise explanation of how to disassemble your headset, adjust, and then troubleshoot any issues. A truly comprehensive video. Well done, Alex.

[@gcntech]

Hope you found it helpful!

[@morningtidefilms]

I have to agree. The quickest, simplest explanation. Would love to know a little more about the expander bolt

[@klarkolofsson]

@@morningtidefilms Yes. For example you should tighten the expander a bit before installation, sliding it in with a small bit of pressure

[@OldDavo1950]

You forget to mention the most important part, that when the stem is placed on the steering tube. You should have at 2mm of the stem internally above the steering tube. This allows you to put the pre load on. If the stem and top of steering tube was flush, you cannot tighten anything.

[@yonglingng5640]

2 mm is too little for a handful of top caps, 3 - 5 mm is more ideal.

[@davidgoon1978]

@@yonglingng5640 winspace slc disc and extralite stem doesnt go easily.. upper stem bolt are almost on the edge thus streerer tube has to be cut at precise length

[@yonglingng5640]

@@davidgoon1978 I worked with one before, I forgot how close the top pinch bolt is away from the top of the stem, but there's nothing wrong with adding a 5 mm spacer up top with the steerer tube flush with the stem.

[@Bum_Chikka]

5:43 to 5:59 Thanks for that advice. It solve my issue.

[@toddh4491]

This was very helpful. Headsets have changed so much since my 1980's steel frames.

[@gcntech]

They really have and it's sometimes hard to keep track! We're glad you found this video useful

[@albullit]

Helps to turn the bars 90deg when checking the headset for play. That way you eliminate the play in the brake pads inside the calliper. So many folk feel a knock and keep tightening when it’s brake pad play and not the bearings.

[@yonglingng5640]

I usually place my fingers between the head tube and headset cover. I also check if I can rotate the spacers by hand, which shouldn't happen if there's proper preload.

[@americusdeville865]

Amazingly good video on bike headsets.

[@savagepro9060]

Damn! All along I thought a headset was the rider's mental attitude! Thanks Alex!

[@jamesbianchi]

I swear that 75% of you videos are directly related to me. First time ever took a spacer out of my bike to lower it a bit 3 days ago. No idea I wanted to tighten the cover bolt first. Will be correcting that tonight. Awesome stuff. Thanks!!

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

lower it? you need to swap it to the other side of the stem, something else that Alex fails to mention. Or cut the steerer, which is waaay beyond this casual tweak.

[@gcntech]

Mind powers..... ooooooh!! 😵‍💫

[@demand61]

Great video to explain the workings of headsets. If I could add 1 thing that would be to check for play after your first ride. Oftentimes something in the headset will be seated and there might be some play in it.

[@gavinimages]

Thanks! I’ve been struggling with a tiny bit of play in my steering tube for a while now. Not a real problem just very annoying. I hadn’t been loosing my bar clamp when trying to adjust it “problem solved” :-)

[@gcntech]

Sounds super irritating! Glad we could help

[@RandyASilva]

Perfect explanation. The brake test was genius. Thank you!

[@julianmuller9567]

Thanks for the easy explanation! My headset still sounds like crap though

[@Relevant_Irrelevance]

How to easily align the wheel, stem, and handlebars so they're all together proper?

[@mmmbetter55]

Hold the front wheel between your legs, and use the front plate bolts of the stem to align the wheel precisely between them. I usually tighten down the steer-clamp bolts (on the stem) to just above finger right, so you can adjust the angle but it won't be easily knocked out of place while you finalize the position. Most bars will also have hash marks around the stem clamping area to assist in leveling them and evening them out left/right.

[@stevemawer848]

Laser beam!

[@klarkolofsson]

If your saddle is centered, that's another hassle, you can take some string from the center back of the saddle up to the stem to center the cockpit.

[@jimmytherat88]

I normally switch grid lines on my phone camera and then you can use your phone camera and the grid lines act as a straight edge

[@bengt_axle]

Hold the wheel at a 45 degrees (to the right or left) and line up the opening of the clamp (the crack) with the center of the tire, looking through one eye at at an angle from behind. The trailing section of the tire lines up with the crack, while the leading section (in front of the fork) will be centred between the two top bolts of the handlebar clamp. Using both these references of the stem, you should be able to line up the stem straight.

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

You missed entirely that the No. 1 cause for loose headsets is that the loose expander plug is pulled up the steerer by overtightening and bottoming-out of the tension cap & its screw, and how to reset and tighten that down - often involving disassembly of the expander plug and clean/grease of its parts. You can't get preload if you can't tighten the tension cap screw into it. Also, a lack of clamping gap between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the top spacer (which you should pretty much always have on top of your stem, under the tension cap). So many of your maintenance videos are like this: do half a job and missing important points, which might one day come back to bite you.

[@truthseeker8483]

good point

[@neilcampion5265]

Amazing Alex. These videos give a lot of people confidence to do some diy maintenance. Keep them coming.

[@gcntech]

Thanks Neil!

[@hymen0callis]

Good video on quite a basic task, which I nevertheless got wrong as a beginner a few years ago. I might add information on the various common headset standards and dimensions, bike manufacturers' recommendations on spacer height above and below the stem, and the sometimes quite time-consuming task of getting your stem aligned with your wheel, but that is more related to the stem rather than the headset (and you probably have videos on that already).

[@LeesChannel]

It's funny, back when I had an 80's Panasonic bike, I brought it into the shop because of derailleur issues. They told me that my headset bearings were completely shot, and the ball bearings had worn into the metal. They were quite insistent that it needed to be replaced, but I never did it. I actually liked how it felt, the handlebars gently popped into place when centered, it honestly felt so natural it was like it was designed that way. Plus, it didn't affect the performance or efficiency of the bike (unlike that derailleur issue, which they were never able to fix.)

[@yonglingng5640]

A headset assembly should never feel indexed, they're right about having it replaced.

[@LeesChannel]

@@yonglingng5640 Some kind thief took care of that

[@fede1275]

I wonder why when the headset has been refitted the expander plug was left on the bench… 🤔 Maybe because the description applies to all the bikes apart from Canyon, as the one you have used in the video does not have an expander plug to support the stem clamp! You might have needed another bike to do this video 😀

[@mahadi8488]

This is a very useful video for home enthusiast. Thanks Alex.

[@yannicnoack5389]

Thank you so much for this video! I have recently struggled with fork play after my local bike mechanic could also not help much. *Cannondale and other bikes equipped with FSA expanding nuts* and top caps do not have a tension screw on the top. Instead, the top cap is screwed into the expanding nut and is therefore the tension screw in itself. Hope this helps somebody. Keep up the good videos!

[@g.west2372]

Also had a little clicking noise after slamming my stem... turns out... I did chech the top cap, but probably the expanding nut was not tight enough...

[@gcntech]

Glad you found it useful Yannic-Tim!

[@barriobarranco]

Once you think you've nailed the headset stem cap pressure and nipped up the bolts, apply the back brake and lift the front wheel with the bike standing up in front of you, bars turned 90 degrees in line with the frame, and try and rock the bars (12 and 6 o'clock) gently, it will show up any looseness...

[@charlesmansplaining]

Thought for sure you would have gotten more into details of what dirty sweat corroded and rusty bearings look like so people have some idea as the reason to take this apart and do maintenance to begin with. I sweat a lot and it tends to go right in the headset. I have an expensive Chris King headset that I look after on a schedule of every two months and the amount of crud in there would kill that headset in no time if I let it go. The grease doesn't keep sweat from getting in there. sweat is very corrosive. This is also another reason why hidden cables and hoses is a bad idea because your only option is to ride the bike until your headset bearings fail.

[@fogrider4607]

Great, practical explanation. Bravo.

[@gcntech]

Thank you! Hope it helps!

[@Kimberly_Sparkles]

Alex is back--with small scabs! These are recent--the video and the scabs!

[@GCNalex]

very good attention to detail there, haha

[@Kimberly_Sparkles]

@@GCNalex I've been trying to guess what's been in the can for a while vs, recently shot. The bandages are a dead giveaway. It's like an Encyclopedia Brown mystery.

[@truthseeker8483]

I want to know how he heals so quickly?

[@GCNalex]

@@truthseeker8483 I'm not sure i would say 6 weeks is quick, feels like ages

[@Kimberly_Sparkles]

@@GCNalex seems normal. They looked deep.

[@ranjitrakhra8427]

An excellent tutorial reference the Headset Assembly... I had mine apart recently (only for checking it out) and was horrified to find there was no 'Crown Race' installed on the bottom of the steerer tube and that the lower bearing was sitting directly on the fork itself.. Am happy to know the set-up is fine. (the cycle is Boardman TeamC road machine).

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

You don't always need a crown race seat: CF forks have it moulded in, usually.

[@PeteEllson5656]

Thanks for this video. Really helped me out. Your channel rocks.

[@123moof]

Bought a road bike built by someone who managed to be almost as bad of a mechanic as I am. He had a lot of spacers, but ultimately the steerer tube was a tiny smidge too long for the number of spacers, so the top-cap hit the steerer before the bearing got a proper pre-load. Replacing one small spacer with one that was another 1mm thicker solved the slight movement. I will chop off the chimney soon, once the fit is finalized.

[@markowsley4954]

Nice explanation on how threadless headsets work. I still use threaded headsets so this was educational.

[@simonm1447]

I use bikes with both, however A head headsets are far simpler to maintain and to adjust, and offer more stiffness

[@gcntech]

Thanks Mark!

[@Sammmo51]

Really good video!!! 👌👌

[@Samsonmetaphysical]

I use an expander plug on alloy steerer tube too, I don't like using the star nuts. They seem to damage the inside of alloy steerer tubes.

[@truthseeker8483]

good idea

[@yonglingng5640]

It's just some gauging, alloy steerer tubes are more resilient, you don't have to worry about them getting crushed by a stem. The pinch bolts would snap or the threads on the stem body would strip first. But yes, they're designed not to be removable, which is indeed a pain unless your fork has a hole at the bottom for the old star nut to be punched through.

[@tflspitfire]

Great video. This is why i subscibed to gcn in the first place!

[@gcntech]

Amazing to hear! Glad you found it helpful!

[@toweringtrio]

I could still see some rocking when he was checking the last time. Not enough torque on that bolt or that race on the frame is off by a mile.

[@klarkolofsson]

When I changed my stem I didn't take stack height into account so I did get minor headset play, couldn't figure out why at first. 2mm spacer fixed the pre-load! Maybe this can be useful for someone out there.

[@123moof]

The goal should be to recess the top of the steerer about 3mm below the top of the stack (stem plus any spacers). It is also not a bad idea to always have at least a 3 mm spacer on top for carbon steerers so there is plenty of “meat” left of the steerer to clamp onto.

[@tomahoks]

As a bike fitter James states Slam Your Stem!

[@truthseeker8483]

I was having trouble with my head-set..the doctor put me onto a great new medication 😁

[@tomrachellesfirstdance7843]

Was easy...now integrated cockpits have made this a real pain

[@gcntech]

They can complicate things 😅

[@yonglingng5640]

Only people who've worked on bikes are able to say this.

[@davegearing2707]

And what about integrated headsets? When the cables run through the steerer tube?

[@michaelb9664]

It would be good to use a headset that isn’t brand new perhaps for a video like this. Show us a one that’s full of grit and has seen some wet weather & dry dusty trails and had a few washes and is in need of a clean and re grease. 👍 Might be good to show how to inspect a carbon steerer tube for signs of damage from being ran with a loose headset for too long and also explain the importance of always clamping the stem where the expander tube is. Example don’t leave the steerer uncut if running the stem slammed as low as possible etc…

[@alansheard553]

That's all fine but what if you have one of those Accros collar type ones like on my Canyon, which adds pre load from the underside. It's also a crap system too.

[@PaulDoodes]

Any suggestions for what to do if (after loosening the pinch bolts) the bearings are still loose after tightening the top bolt firmly?

[@AnotherMrLizard]

Most likely you haven’t got a gap from the top of the stem to the top of the steerer. When you take the stem off (or spacers if you have any above the stem) you should have least 3-5mm gap between the top of the stem and the top of the fork steerer that’s in the centre. If you haven’t got this gap or it’s not enough then the fork bottoms out on the topcap before it preloads the bearings. If that’s the case an extra stem spacer will do the job.

[@rudolphpyatt4833]

How about a video on threaded headsets and quill stems?

[@stuart3744]

Do you recommend the 2 stem bolts with the heads at opposite sides, I noticed you tightened from opposite sides and daft question 2 what about quantity of grease

[@wspmjw]

#GCNTECH - Howdy Mannon and the Fellas. I'm preparing to move cross country (USA) and would prefer to transport my bikes inside the moving van which I'll be packing. What's the best way to prep the bikes for this journey with my household goods? Planning to remove the pedals and configure the handlebars parallel to the top tube (90 degrees from 'normal). Thanks for the knowledge.

[@whomstthouamme2155]

there are bike travel cases you can buy if your bike is really expensive, you slightly take it apart

[@wspmjw]

@@whomstthouamme2155 Thanks, but not looking to buy 3 bike cases and I'll be doing the loading/unloading.

[@RobertHopkinsArt]

Question: How many hours, or miles/kilometers, or any other measurement can we use to know the bearings life-cycle? How do we determine the bearings are shot?

[@mmmbetter55]

Modern headsets don't often go bad. They don't spin much and with sealed bearings, fat chance much is gonna get inside. That said, if you take the bearings out and they feel rough to spin by hand, they're easy to replace. But really, headset bearings just aren't gonna wear out.

[@RobertHopkinsArt]

Thanks for that explanation, Mate! I was just curious about that.

[@mmmbetter55]

For other bearings, there isn't a straightforward rule- depends too much on your maintenance habits, riding conditions and so on. If you try to service them and they feel rough, replace them.

[@deadly0078]

Depends on conditions of where you ride in and how much. I service my headset every 4 to 5 month. If you feel grinding in the bearing while turning then its time to replace it or them.

[@mmmbetter55]

@@deadly0078 Is yours an old-school loose ball type?

[@TheFloridaBikeVlogger]

i like how he had the euro style

[@jackcockle4796]

Have you (anyone reading the comments) ever thought about, or come across a cool mod that replaces the spacers? Like if you wanted to drop the bars down the steering tube, thus resulting in more of the tube being above the stem, without having to cut the steering tube and without just leaving the spacers above the stem, making the headset look stupid. For example, a part that reaches over the stem and adds more mounting space infront of the handlebars? Just curious to see what people have come up with.

[@lukepoon9729]

my bike has as much movement as the bike in the video at 06:59 , is this normal or should i have it checked out?

[@maustin1965]

Great vid - what if you have a creaking in the front end - I’ve got a cervelo s3 - I’ve yesfiber gripped the handlebar and tightened to spec - still creaking - my next thought was the headset - I’ve got no free play and the handlebars move freely? Any thoughts - thanks guys!!

[@yonglingng5640]

Check your hub.

[@1afterthep]

I still don't know why there is never any sort of mark on the stem according to which you can align your stem and bar.

[@adambranson1095]

Even my 2020 Scott speedster has cup and cone, no mention?

[@buyabouzouki]

I find it difficult to use my brakes when I'm in the drops. I'm using Shimano 105. Any advice?

[@yonglingng5640]

First things first, are your lever blades too far from your fingers? Are the STI levers set way too high on the handlebars? Is there too much upwards tilt in the handlebars? Excessive upwards tilt will render riding in the drops impossible simply because the ergonomics over there are ignored.

[@genewhalen9264]

Nice video, Alex. #AskGCNTech, what milage interval would you recommend inspecting your headset?

[@chespa40]

Does it come with a kickstand

[@drfegg288]

Bloody awesome video. Making the complex comprehensible to a complete moron like me means you're winning at life. Chapeau!!!

[@bengt_axle]

Any benefit to replacing a stack of four 5mm spacers under the stem with one solid 20mm spacer? The logic would be that it would provide greater stiffness and reduce fore and aft flexing of the steerer as you go over bumps.

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

negligible, and you would lose the ability to adjust stem height easily. The flex is merely concentrated in a smaller area.

[@truthseeker8483]

Why not? Good idea but keep the 5mm spacers in case you need to make adjustments later

[@Aspireonthego]

Can I straighten my bars by loosening and tightening the two stem bolts without touching or messing with the top cap and the preload set on the headset?

[@billkallas1762]

Yes.

[@yonglingng5640]

When realigning your stem, the top cap bolt can be left alone.

[@lucitribal]

Can you make a video for quill stems as well?

[@truthseeker8483]

convert to threadless🙂

[@stevethistle7974]

any benefit to adding grease to the lower and upper bearing sets when installing if they are sealed?

[@yonglingng5640]

Grease on the headset bearing seats acts as a water-resistant barrier to prevent corrosion. A headset assembly should never be installed dry.

[@Seamanatorrr]

When I lower my stem to dial in the fit, do I need to have it cut?

[@yonglingng5640]

If it's just testing the new position during the bike fit, it can be left alone. However if you're sure you'll be going lower, make sure the stem is still clamping reinforced steerer tube. Otherwise, have the steerer tube cut until the stem is able to do so.

[@christophervergara2962]

Everytime I'm doing anything related with the headset, specially the expander plug, is a nightmare: that evil little bastard always gets loose and falls into the fork... is there any tip or precaucion for avoiding that to happen?

[@DjCringefest]

stop messing with the expander then.

[@truthseeker8483]

@@DjCringefest 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁

[@donwinston]

Threaded vs. unthreaded head set? Are threaded head sets an old design and not used anymore? I've a 9 year old Cannondale Synapse. No matter how tight I screw the top cap the load on the bearing doesn't increase for some reason. The steering does not get "sticky" and it still makes creaking sounds when I ride out of the saddle or ride over sharp bumps. Sounds like it is falling apart. I hate it.

[@keithreed5009]

It sounds as if the top cap is hitting the steerer tube, try adding a thin spacer or shorten the steerer tube by 1.0mm

[@chris1275cc]

If its an aluminium steerer tube Check that the middle part the star-nut is not stripped or spinning, (if it is bash it down out of the way or drill it out/ remove it and install a new one or an expander if you like) If its carbon check the expander plug is not loose and not just being pulled up the steerer. Also if it is a plug check that there is an air gap/space between the top of the plug and the bottom of the top cap of about 3-4mm if not all you are doing is squashing the top cap to the the top of the expander and not pre-loading it. You can check both plug issues by dropping a spacer on top of your stem and trying to set the pre load, if the creaks/movement go away then there wasn't sufficient gap, you can either cut 3-4mm off the steerer or put a short spacer on top. It the issue remains remove the top cap and spacer and you will be able to see if the expander has been pulled up, in which case fiber grip the plug and re-install to torque spec.

[@chris1275cc]

Additional: Inspect the steerer especially around the bearing seats. The "ring of death" where the races bite/wear into the steerer tube is something that can cause this issue (even on aluminium ones).

[@Pesmog]

In addition to the other comments here, also make sure you are doing the final tighten on the ground as shown in the video and not on the bike stand. If necessary have someone pushing down on the handlebars so that the steerer and bearings are compressed with a real world load when you tighten the screw. 👍 I always re-check it after a few miles riding as that allows everything to bed in properly.

[@beedroneinsta]

Question I have a canyon aero. Trying to change the bearings which are stuck to the inner headset. Is there any sprays or techniques I can use to free up both bearings… left it to long need help please

[@yonglingng5640]

You might need a punch and a hammer to lightly knock them out. If in doubt, best let a reputable LBS help you out.

[@ld22d57]

Hi there I keep destroying my wheel hub on my Cannodale synapse. Any advice on how to stop breaking it please.

[@truthseeker8483]

lay off the Oreos

[@simonkos2480]

I recently just washed my disc brakes. I now have some problems with my rear brake. When I am descending my rear brake work for few seconds, then I hear some weird noise and my brakes stops working. After I release my brake for few seconds, my rear brake starts working normally. Anyone now to solve this problem?

[@sooryanandanans236]

Try cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol....

[@simonm1447]

On my MTB there are two ways of solving this problem with squeaking brakes - cleaning it with alcohol, sanding the pads slightly and reinstall everything - or descending a hill steep enough to get the brakes near 230 to 250 ° C (colour of the rotor: yellow to brown, blue (300°C) is not necessary) and the squeaking is gone Method 2 makes more fun

[@garys628]

would you be packing a load of grease in there as well ??

[@MrTuxy]

I do, water repellent grease is a good idea if you live somewhere where it frequently rains.

[@ESDavey]

Smear grease I suggest

[@Elbrunosh]

Yes!!!

[@sourpatxh253]

I’ve bought a used bike with a super slammed steerer. My only option to rise it to add only about 20mm of spacer, been thinking of adding more but it will result having the steerer to be halfway in the stem. Is that ok or not advisable to do?

[@yonglingng5640]

Totally not OK, don't do it, you'll kill yourself before you know it.

[@fastasasloth]

ALU stem and ALU steerer on one bike, once adjusted never comes loose. Carbon or ALU stem with carbon steerer tube on other two bikes, and after every 5-10 rides I'm having to re-tighten to take the play out. Have tried assembling with/without carbon-paste, makes no difference. Is this just a "feature" of carbon steerer tubes......?😞

[@yonglingng5640]

Sounds like there might not be enough preload on your bikes with a carbon steerer tube. Have you tried adding a shim or two underneath the headset cover? You might want to check the expander plug too, see if it was pulled up. I'm now riding a bike with a carbon steerer tube and an aluminium stem. The last time I lost some preload is because I barely had enough preload due to the lack of a 0.3 mm shim, so with enough bumps on a ride, it'll go loose. Now I have it installed, I'll need to see how it goes, which I don't think will happen again.

[@kodiakrider7612]

No grease?

[@GianCRO9597]

#AskGCNTech Is it possible for a bike with mechanical groupset to be setup fully integrated (all cables hidden). What could be the possible downside of doing that? And can you do that to any bike frame as long as you will use an integrated stem/handlebar?

[@yonglingng5640]

It's only possible if: 1) The frameset runs integrated internal routing in the first place. 2) Said frameset is compatible with your mechanical groupset (not all mechanical groupsets are compatible with all framesets with integrated internal routing). Otherwise, don't even try.

[@cindycindy4536]

No issues with assembly for me kzbin.infoUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".

[@thomaskuhn6541]

I've always worked with aluminum frames and steerer tubes in the past, so any headset work has included the application of grease. Is it correct with carbon frames and steerer tubes that everything is assembled dry, no grease or any other compound? Can a small application of grease to act as a moisture seal damage the carbon?

[@derkreisende9335]

imo you should also grease up the area around the bearings on a carbon frame, correct me if I'm wrong!

[@whatwelearned]

You want grease on the fork and carbon paste on the expander bolt

[@iryankali2041]

Set my Headset top cap at 3nm is this still acceptable force on a Carbon fork?

[@yonglingng5640]

There's no specific torque spec. As long as you don't feel any knocking, the spacers can't be turned by hand and the cockpit can steer freely, that's enough preload.

[@mavinlewis9460]

Hi I have burning qtn What type and name of headsets do modern track bikes use or have. Coa they look cool and weird

[@truthseeker8483]

Completely different design and different frame design

[@mavinlewis9460]

Ya but I need the name

[@pablolopez584]

Does it make any sense applying carbon paste to the expander bolt? #AskGCNTech

[@yonglingng5640]

The bolt itself, never makes sense. But if it's the expander plug's outer wall you're talking about, it does help as some of them just won't grab the steerer tube well on their own.

[@stevemawer848]

Not exactly everything we need to know about headsets - what about us old school riders with threaded steerers and quill stems?

[@guchypoo]

Go to park tools page..they have everything

[@billkallas1762]

You can find info on other KZbin channels.

[@richardbridges7664]

Maybe qualify the video title with unthreaded?

[@truthseeker8483]

convert to a threadless fork and be happy

[@deadly0078]

I cant comment lol because im a mechanic myself.

[@cube730]

So i can take out as many spacers as i want?

[@billkallas1762]

It depends on your flexibility. Until you are sure that you can ride with a lower stem, you can just move the spacers to be on top of your stem, instead of below it. After you are positive you can live with a lower stem, you can remove those spacers and cut the stem. (once you do that, there is no going back) Just in case I become less flexible, I kept a 2mm spacer above the stem. Some people keep a 5mm spacer there.

[@cube730]

@@billkallas1762 thanks i was wondering what you do with the "rest" of the stem but cutting makes sense. Good idea ill try to ride lower with the spacer above to see how it goes :)

[@LG-lt6di]

I had to go to my local bike shop😅🤣😂

[@danielsekera3525]

around the 7 minute mark after the second adjustment you can literally SEE there is still too much play in that headset

[@JoelSzymczyk]

there are days when I really miss cups, cones, loose ball bearings, and grease.

[@truthseeker8483]

loose ball bearings flying across the floor and grease on your hands...😁😁😁😁.

[@reubensteel4632]

Please don’t try to manual pre load a carbon steerer by hand it’s to easy to damage the steerer always use a torque wrench and if it’s still lose then check the bearings

[@yonglingng5640]

There's no specific torque spec for headset preload. Once there's no knocking and steering is still smooth, proper preload has been achieved.

[@reubensteel4632]

@@yonglingng5640 all my carbon steerers have max torque figures that can be applied so I don’t know where you get the idea they don’t. Are you buying no name open mould from Ali ?

[@yonglingng5640]

@@reubensteel4632 No, I know I don't even hit 3 Nm on top cap bolts. This bolt doesn't even need a lot of torque as far as I remember. Never have I once damaged a carbon steerer tube.

[@everjit]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYXIn5Zma5ekpas can see little play in HeadCap Is this fine? same with my cap. If I tighten the extender screw further then steering starts showing noticeable resistance. Please help

[@HShango]

When I see a road bike that costs £2k and up honestly that is a ridiculous price tag, if it was a car I get it, bit a bike...🤨, Yes I'm a cyclist, people will agree to disagree on that price topic but either way the prices of road bikes on the higher end is insane

[@wilsonyg]

Straighten up the handlebar is the hardest part 😣

[@simonm1447]

Just line up the wheel with the frame, and measure the distance from both ends of the bars to the seat tube. If it's the same length your bar is perfectly aligned

[@xandrovangoethem4081]

but why is a headset squicking ?

[@truthseeker8483]

squicking....sounds bad 😁

[@denoredo]

First

[@mavinlewis9460]

I was bt I got distracted

[@truthseeker8483]

@@mavinlewis9460 Last