HPI 15FE Rebuild!

[@todd2speedkski591]

Thanks for this 🐛 I have 2 of these that need rebuilding! Going to have them as, My Winter project here in Erie county ny .

[@thebug4046]

No problem!

[@mad_mechanic]

Awesome video ✌️

[@rcsendandblast1579]

Good video buddy. Such small little bundles of joy 👊😎

[@fabianv.7869]

Great Video

[@davidmayberry9335]

Great video. I love rebuild and tare down videos. I learn so much form them.

[@williamchisholm5776]

Another great video from the nitro engine wizard

[@elmavr]

Bad ass got this engine on my hpi nitro mt1

[@russtuff]

Nicely done. I used your process when rebuilding my pro 15, and it actually runs now!

[@thebug4046]

Awesome glad to hear!

[@russtuff]

@@thebug4046 thanks! Now to tear back down and do some port and polish :)

[@MRMechanicRC]

Dang… just sold my HPI 15FE thinking it was toast lol…. I’m subscribed now :)

[@thebug4046]

That sucks! And thanks for the subb!

[@a2rc]

Hey Bug..... Hope you see this question This topic maybe may also be helpful for others as well and if you haven't already and if it makes sense to, putting up a short vid about this topic wouldn't hurt either (if you have already, point us in the right direction plz/Ty). As you have mentioned many times and as we know, when running ABN nitro engines, it is important to have a "higher" concentration of oil in the fuel blend (12-18% approx. oil). Straight Castor oil use is what you have mentioned but, I am pretty sure there wouldn't be an issue with using "traditional" gasoline 2-cycle oil (or full synthetic 2-cycle gasoline oil) to mix into preblended nitro fuel to bump up the oil content (instead of straight caster). Right? Generally speaking, I know that the gasoline 2-cycle oil(s) have caster, synthetic oils, mineral oil, etc to make up the oil blend. Since, I haven't done it this way before, I wanted to ask if you have and/or if that would indeed deem it to be an acceptable straight Castor oil substitute for use? I would bet that there would be more folks that would have Gasoline 2-cycle mix oil on-hand, more so that straight Castor. This could help them out to know the “good/bads” of potentially using this type of oil to mix with their nitro fuel @Nitro&Gas Thanks for the help @thebug 404

[@thebug4046]

Yes with ABN engines they require a higher Castor oil content to protect the nickel plating as well as out to seal the top of the piston properly with ABN RC car engines about 16% oil if you start at 9% oil add 2oz klotz castor oil to 1 qt of your fuel. And basically no 2 stroke oil will work it has to be designed to mix with methanol!!! As for ABC engines I run 10% oil as for ⅕ gasoline 32:1 with a higher octane ethanol free fuel and a quality oil like klotz oils or maxima or golden spectro oil. As for aircraft engines 17 to 24% oil But again you cannot use normal synthetic tear stroke oil it does not mix with methanol or ethanol you will end up with a lava lamp that's it has to be specifically designed for methanol use... If gasoline does not really work very well in glow engines it will burn a very hot around 400ﾟ I have done testing on it before it's almost impossible to keep it running

[@montoyajj]

Trying to rebuild my 15FE and can’t really find much as replacement parts, mainly the piston and sleeve and seals were did you manage to find yours ? Also thanks for all the detail and commentary you give 🤙🏽

[@thebug4046]

Hey man yeah the parts are increasingly ever harder to find and very expensive if you do find them luckily mine I got in a parts lot a few years ago and was able to find some stuff kind of floating around eBay Other than that it's pretty barren

[@montoyajj]

Thanks for the quick response I’ll keep my eyes out on the good ol eBay! I heard you say the connecting rod you used was steel, do you have a part number on that guy? I’m I’m not mistaken the stock one was brass looking.

[@thebug4046]

@@montoyajj Hey dude no problem try and Google some of the parts or part numbers and keep searching them on eBay sometimes they pop up and you might get lucky but just make sure you have a couple extra bucks in the bank because sometimes you're not cheap and just keep searching part number after part number after part number after part number that's usually what I do

[@nitrogas5719]

I love these rebuild videos, brings back the nitro memories. Could you help me out with oil selection for my fifth scale? I’m not sure if I should go with klotz benol or super techniplate? I’m thinking benol because of the full castor but I’m not really sure. Thanks

[@thebug4046]

Thanks man and run what you like. The benol is always a favorite of mine. Or run one of each and see what you like better both are awesome the nice thing about the super is it doesn't fall out of suspension in cold weather and will mix easily in cold temperatures just play around you wont hurt anything. Go 32:1 mix with non ethanol gasoline 90 octane or a bit better no need for av gasoline like 100ll it won't make any more power just wasting money

[@nitrogas5719]

@@thebug4046 thanks for the reply man, I found some royal purple hp2c in my local oreilys. Had pretty good reviews, gonna be running that with the 91 octane.

[@thebug4046]

@@nitrogas5719 perfect should be good! Stick around 32:1 or 40:1

[@nitrogas5719]

@@thebug4046 I’m still a bit of a noob when it comes to tuning these things, would you say stick to 28:1 or try 32:1?

[@thebug4046]

@@nitrogas5719 32:1

[@Joe_Hutchinson513]

Huh huh huh... you said rod... huh huh huh

[@a2rc]

Hey Bug. What’s your suggestion on how to get a stubborn engine sleeve out of the block? Thanks for the help

[@thebug4046]

Heat man! It helps and a chop stick from underneath. I have video on it

[@a2rc]

Thx for taking the time to reply. I was using heat but, I was trying to get it from the top after that and it wasn’t working (hot lol). Good idea from trying it from the bottom. I’m wood worker as well so, I ended up making my own “push stick” thingy (that’s the engineering technical term LoL) with a handle so, I could get some push force on it. All the small wood wood stuff (like a chop stick wasn’t cutting for this sleeve). This sleeve did not want to come out with out a fight and I didn’t want to destroy the engine. Eventualy I got it with heat, my push stick and from the bottom. I hope to make this Nova Rossi C-12 purr again, sometime in the future. Thx again for the help 😁

[@thebug4046]

@@a2rc hey your very welcome! Glad it worked out! Push stick thingy lol perfect word for it haha

[@nitrogas5719]

@@a2rc oh man, C12! I had one of those, things used to rip man

[@philgrave8242]

Can somebody tell me if there is a little spring in the piston pin under the white cap .. and if there is one, for what is it ? Best regards from germany

[@thebug4046]

Nope not in the piston pin no springs. Hello from Vancouver Canada

[@321rowley]

Looks exactly the same as a tamiya engine

[@thebug4046]

They are the same both made by toki manufacturing in Japan

[@Nitro-Aaron31]

Whats up bug. Question the .15fe would it be the same as the .15ss? I'm rebuilding a .15fe and I can't find the piston and sleeve but I found the .15ss. Or if you know what else brand I can use for the 15fe. Your info would be much appreciated man!

[@thebug4046]

The 15ss takes a different rod and wrist pin then the FE if you can find those parts then yes. It's a match

[@Nitro-Aaron31]

Sweet so it will fit the .15fe crank? and I know the timing will be off because of the bore size in the crank if I can find a ss crank that would be even better.

[@thebug4046]

@@Nitro-Aaron31 i believe it should be the correct pin bore for the fe crank. The ss crank is a little different but it should still run

[@Nitro-Aaron31]

Okay man thank you!

[@thebug4046]

@@Nitro-Aaron31 no worries

[@jasonlangfield6155]

Is the spacing on the pull start more like a 30x30? Larger than the default?

[@thebug4046]

Not sure i don't have a mic

[@mrnoname3802]

lettuce lol