HS265 Vevor annular cutters review

[@le3045acp]

what you are calling a pilot pin is actually used to push out the cut off piece of material when the annular cutter is used as designed in a mag drill if used in a lathe or mill the pin or pilot hole is not necessary keep up the good work

[@HaxbyShed]

Hiya le3045acp, it's just that the pin in a pilot hole will stop my tailstock lifting when it is pulled along by the saddle. Cheers Paul

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Hi Paul. Those annular cutters performed brilliantly and sure do look like value for money. Thank you for an excellent review. 👏👏👍😀

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Andrew £150 is not exactly loose change but it's good value compared with buying individual cutters. I would struggle to find even pre-used individual cutters to make up that set for £150. Cheers

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I have a Vevor Mag Drill , it came with I think 6 cutters, I bought the setup myself, the cutters are great, maybe because you are using them on a lathe you might have to drill a pilot hole but with the mag drill you don't have to,, it helps to center your drill plus it pushes the plug out of the cutter.

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Vernon, nice to hear from you. Often with Vevor tools I have to make some adjustments/improvements but in this case the cutters were just great straight out of the box. Cheers

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Hi Paul, Annual cutters are very handy.. I add to the collection whenever there's a deal. Thanks for the review !

[@HaxbyShed]

Thanks Dean, those are super sharp and the lathe copes easily even at 2 inch diameter. Far easier than drilling and boring. And handy if I do want some holes in flat plate - using the drill press. Cheers Paul

[@bostedtap8399]

Nice bit of kit, 😊 One point if I may, normally its best to withdraw the parting off tool when rotating, but tool was working well 😀. Thanks for sharing.

[@HaxbyShed]

Yes true John, asking for trouble, I was getting over confident. Cheers

[@dennythomas8887]

Nice review. I have the 40 mm Vevor mag drill that came with a set of these Annular cutters. Just a word on RPM. My mag drill runs at 810 rpm, they make a single speed (mine) and 10 speed version. These cutters just blow right through anything I throw at them at 810 rpm so you can run your lathe at a lot higher RPM to take the load off the motor. Cheers!

[@HaxbyShed]

Ah right Denny that's worth knowing. It makes sense because I used 'drilling speed' as my starting point but a drill only has two cutting edges/flutes. A large annular cutter might have 10 cutting faces/flutes which in theory could run at 5x the speed of a drill. I will try that next time, Cheers

[@TheRecreationalMachinist]

Love your lathe Paul: Not so much as a wobble from the tail stock, even with the big cutter 👍 As discussed previously on your Vevor products, they seem to represent excellent value for money. Have a good weekend. Matt

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Matt, the tailstock was unclamped but having the pilot pin in a pre-drilled hole makes all the difference. Also, the tailstock drawbar I made has a 'shoe' at the back which runs underneath in the slot between the 'ways', holding the tailstock down so it can't tip forward. Works pretty well. Cheers.

[@lv_woodturner3899]

Thanks for the review. Very tempting. They cut very well. Not a surprise how much swarf is created, just the nature of the tool. Dave.

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Dave, they are very sharp. Obviously I've only used them once and it was mild steel, but I would hope they would keep their edge ok. Cheers

[@hqlion]

As a machinist, I would try and aim the coolant up the top flute and with a faster coolant flow (if possible) to keep the coolant at the cutting face. This will help with tool longevity. Also a brush over the cutters surface with a tapping compound at the start would also help.

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi hqlion, thanks as it happens I've just got some tapping compound (you will see it in this week's video). Cheers

[@coplandjason]

Very good review Paul, I’ve had my eye on a set of those cutters for a while now but they were out of stock for a while. I’d best grab a set now!

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Jason, apart from anything else they just look amazing. Cheers Paul

[@eyuptony]

Very impressive review Paul, well put over. A useful timesaver tool to have. Cheers Tony

[@HaxbyShed]

I sent you an email Tony, maybe check your junk folder. Cheers Paul

[@MotoRestoFL]

I have a Vevor 6” and 4” vice. Used the 6” for a couple years. I just picked up and refurbished a Kurt D688 6” vice and let me tell you, there’s no comparison. And this Kurt was well used. I bought new jaws from Kurt and they gave me new stickers. The Kurt is majorly superior.

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi MotoResto, I am certain you are right. The Vevor vice is definitely made down to a price. Problem here in the UK is even a very rough Kurt will set you back £300 to £400 (USD380 to 510) and a new one would be at least £700 even 'new other', as they say on ebay. I am wondering if I can make some simple improvements to the Vevor vice, mostly around the screw arrangement. Might be a nice little project. Cheers.

[@MotoRestoFL]

@@HaxbyShed that’s about what they sell for here. I paid $350 for this one, which was maybe a 3 on a scale of 10. But, it came with a dozen or more custom aluminum jaws they used for the parts they made, which I was only interested in them for the material. Probably 30+ lbs of material. Kurt parts aren’t all that expensive over here, so it’s not very expensive to restore one. Enjoy your videos. Cheers back at you.

[@carlwilson1772]

That was an excellent video and review Paul. Those annular cutters are superb. Great value for money.

[@HaxbyShed]

Thanks Carl, it was a bit like "how many innovations can I get into 1 video?". Cheers Paul

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very nice cutters you have there. I only have a cheap set.

[@HaxbyShed]

Hiya Rusty, I see part-used annular cutters for sale at the Autojumble all the time but even those are pretty expensive. I put my hand in my pocket to buy that 40mm you saw but I was still on the lookout for bargains for other sizes. I may still get some more metric annular cutters if the price is right. Cheers Paul

[@StuartsShed]

Great review - those cutters look really good. On your cart - absolutely! I made a similar thing and it’s brilliant. Some of those simple things really are satisfying. On parting under power - I think you did great. It’s difficult parting under power on a manual machine because breaking the chips is such an issue. On CNC machines they program the tool to “peck” which breaks the chips and clears them. I’m no expert but that’s what one of my machinist buddies told me anyway. Cheers!

[@graemewhite5029]

Back in my apprentice days, the old turner would power part off using Eclipse HSS blades and the swarf would pile up like a "gramophone record" on the tool ! He also said, if you do dig in and snap a blade, don't look up straight away, the others in the workshop will have heard the bang, but won't know where it came from !😂

[@eyuptony]

​@graemewhite5029 I'm no professional, but I snapped one of those Eclipse HSS parting blades off a long time ago. It was like a shotgun going off, my lathe seem to jump up off the ground. First and last time. I snap the TCT inserts in half now lol.....

[@StuartsShed]

@@eyuptony it is indeed a very dramatic event when it happens. 😃

[@HaxbyShed]

That's a great comment Graeme 🤣 We can all think of similar situations like that. Cheers

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Stuart, having the multi-fix blade holder (rather than an adapter block clamped in a normal tool post) makes a lot of difference in terms of rigidity. Yes a multi-fix blade holder is expensive but it's improved my parting off mental health and stress anxiety no end! It worth worth every penny for that. Cheers

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

Very good annular cutters

[@HaxbyShed]

Thank you, yes they are. 👍

[@le3045acp]

oh and the annular cutter design makes them work very efficently on low horse power machines

[@HaxbyShed]

Yes that's proven because my lathe made easy work of that whereas it really complains when I use the trepanning tool you saw, cutting out a 4.5mm wide circular channel with flat-end carbides. Cheers

[@le3045acp]

@@HaxbyShed they really are a great way to make smooth finished big holes in the lathe or mill i use them quite regularly but i dont have my carriage retro fitted to pull my tail stock so its not an issue to not use the center pins i dont think ive ever used one to be honest

[@chrisstephens6673]

Does it say to drill a pilot hole, are the pins not for ejecting the core plug?

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Chris, nothing says to drill a hole for a pilot pin but I know from experience it helps when the tailstock is pulled along by the saddle and not clamped and it has such a long 'stick out' with the length of the quill and the cutter. On a mag drill all the distances are short so I'm sure no pilot hole required in that case. Cheers

[@michaelnoyes4817]

Hey mate, you only have to put a centre punch mark for the pin

[@chrisstephens6673]

@@michaelnoyes4817 even on a lathe?

[@michaelnoyes4817]

@@chrisstephens6673 yes

[@chrisstephens6673]

@@michaelnoyes4817 isn't the centre pop just for locating the hole when using a mag drill or a drill press? On a lathe it is completely redundant as location is set by the lathe axis.

[@HaxbyShed]

Hiya Michael, on the lathe when I'm using the powered tailstock it is unclamped so there is nothing holding it down except its own weight. Using the pin in a hole as a pilot just stops the tailstock rising up. I understand your point about pushing out the slug normally and it would do that also if I cored all the way through. Cheers Paul

[@paulhammond7489]

I've not seen one of those used on a lathe, but I have seen them in Mag-Drills, they're extremely effective on plate steel and RSJ etc. So it's nice to see them perform well in a lathe as well. If that pilot is spring loaded, you may only need it to start the cut, after that it may be possible to remove the pilot when in a lathe? So a shallow pilot can be drilled?

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Paul, I don't think a pilot would be required for a mag drill because everything is close up and tight (the distances are short). But with a lathe there is the length of the cutter, then the tailstock quill and then distance to the tailstock clamping point so there is a lot of stick out and opportunity for deflection. More so if the tailstock is not clamped - i.e. free to be pulled along by the saddle. The pilot hole was only perhaps 1CM deep but it stopped the cutter/quill/tailstock combination deflecting and running off course. The holder has a disk and spring behind the pin so as the cutter moves forward into the workpiece the pin is pushed back into the holder. Cheers Paul

[@paulhammond7489]

@@HaxbyShed Thanks Paul :)

[@graedonmunro1793]

can't complain about those!

[@HaxbyShed]

Yes they seem to be very good Graedon. Cheers

[@davidberlanny3308]

Hi Paul, no lights dimmed in Halifax with this one, your lathe seemed quite comfotable with the load. What are you going to do with all those rings I wonder? Have a great weekend

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi David, the annular cutters take a lot less horse power than the trepanning tool for sure. Cheers Paul

[@huibhoogendoorn503]

Paul, how works the powerfeet on the tailstock?

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Huib, I hope this old video explains how I made the tailstock power feed kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGrKZ62smdlsatk

[@huibhoogendoorn503]

@@HaxbyShed Hi Paul, great idea for short holes but how to take out of the drilling dust every time to clear the drill when the holes need to be deep?

[@HaxbyShed]

Hi Huib, I only use the tailstock power feed for big drills or cutters on deep holes. Normally a big drill will clear itself, especially with plenty of flood coolant. If the drill does clog then just drop out the power feed lever on the saddle and slide the saddle and tailstock back together to clear the swarf, then push it back up to the work and restart the power feed. I does work. Cheers

[@kimber1958]

Outstanding

[@HaxbyShed]

Thanks Kimber, I see you are getting very excited about your mill and coolant. I found the semi-synthetic makes a massive difference. The soluble mineral oil stuff just seemed to make a mess - kept the tool cool but did not help the cut as much as the semi. Next you will be wanting a refractometer to check the concentration but if you do be sure to get the right range (0 to 15% I think). If you want to know more send me an email, and apologies if you across all already. Cheers

[@Warped65er]

Thx for the vid.

[@HaxbyShed]

Welcome 👍