Hummer H2 2005 - Drivers Door Module

This video covers the DDM removal, disassembly, button contacts cleaning and reassembly.

[@Cookefan59]

Nice video. My problem is actually on the passengers side but I enjoyed taking in the fundamentals that you showed here. Thanks!

[@hummerfixes]

You are most welcome 👍

[@reginaldotto4411]

Thank you for answering back I looked on Rock Auto but I wasn't able to work through items other than window motor when I wanted a switch. 'thank you for the advice.

[@hummerfixes]

Roackauto is an amazing site, truly. You didn't say what year you H2 was, they are sure to have one. For example here is the link for a 2003/4 www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hummer,2004,h2,6.0l+v8,1431816,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624 and here is the link for a 2005/6/7 www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hummer,2005,h2,6.0l+v8,1431821,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624 alternatively post your model year and I'll find it for you. BTW I have no connections to RA, I live in the UK

[@reginaldotto4411]

Thank you for getting back to me... I am sorry I didn't mention that I owned a 2003H2 Hummer. I have it in the shop today because the a/c doesn't work and it's 90's and has been in the 100s. Also my rear door hatch spring shocks quit working and it's a heavy door. Ever worked on one of these? Reggie

[@hummerfixes]

Good luck with the A/C remember it needs exactly 1.6lbs of R-134a refrigerant. So check it holds a vacuum for at least an hour, if the shop can determine how much PAG oil was removed,they should at the same back in. Yes I've had to replace the rear gas struts, as I recall it was easy to do.

[@reginaldotto4411]

@@hummerfixes found out that the drivers side gas struts is shorter than the passenger side strut. It will wear out both struts sooner if the right ones are not installed.

[@hummerfixes]

@@reginaldotto4411 Interesting, actually though they were the same length, however I see that some suppliers stock left & right part numbers. You're right, def need both.

[@MichaelG508]

What did you use to clean the graphite tabs? Alcohol and cloth also

[@hummerfixes]

Thanks for your comment, indeed IPA and cloth, but nothing abrasive👍

[@reginaldotto4411]

Thank you so much! I did what you said and I lived in Arizona so many of the plastic tabs snapped but it worked when I was finished. Where can one buy a new switch if it happens again?

[@hummerfixes]

Well done for fixing your module 👍 , sorry you lost some tabs 😌 Rockauto carry stocks (www.rockauto.com) Select HUMMER -> MODEL Year for your H2-> Electrical-Switch & Relay -> Power Window Switch -> Right or Left. I would go with GM Original, be sure to select the correct MODEL Year for your truck (not date 1st on road) For example 2005 onwards have the Global Windows Up/Down electronics, using an earlier module may result in these buttons not working (note the buttons in a separate panel in the door, not visible in the video) I bought one last March and it was 100% OK, no programming required.

[@reginaldotto4411]

Colin, I found out my A/C problem was that mice or rats got up under my fuse panel and chewed up the wire from the switch to the compressor. so let your fans know to look there. My divers door module switch quit again. So I need to know where to buy a complete Drivers door Module? Where is the easiest and quickest way? thanks Reginald Otto

[@hummerfixes]

Good work on the A/C - those pesky critters 🐀 For me Rockauto is the quickest and most cost effective source here's a link to a 2003 LH door module but please double check before buying. Also how much do you want for your old one? www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7492772&cc=1398562&pt=4624&jsn=809&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS4kQ4ZFqctuXoVauwVeFXZZPyH34YRhCpnqMmRiyR6RMR0pvfZNrVqiA6sPgcyYzvJsZ17H8OuKTAlYcnmha0IuUocRkde2KIEbzoMxQJ7%2BDmfklZ9hK9ZWz5tgmrEON8kRZocJGiMfCZJ1XO%2FqVtY9CT%2FI58vBJx%2FN9TgyfhTvanngCBkIk1QwHsxQnogEMNSznES7lksddu2jehwgS6u41bjXElfawtIGWt3agzLN4RGFoiGihkV%2Fsv93lX6LJNzhHL8onfsFAJpCkVhcOMpcmPqK9U7QMXF36Pe%2BvVbAqEkfbRsXiXQZNPiHLutgVE%2FOgKXDWvX0P

[@Rebel66666]

Hi there...I got problem with mirrors,they doesn't work....maybe you got some idea how to fix it somehow.Maybe also that modul need to be cleaned....thank you for your answer

[@hummerfixes]

Presume BOTH power mirrors were working OK previously, reason is most issues are related to mirror motor mechanisms. Go to the 5.29 mark in the video, the IC on the extreme right hand side (IC1 P/No HC165A) reads the mirror membrane switches, check the components around and close to that IC. On the opposite side are the U-D-L-R pads, notice this group of 4 are connected together by a common trace (+5V) check this trace also connects to the above IC pin 16 which is the bottom right hand pin on the video. Check for corrosion and erosion of the tracks especially if water has got in. If all other DDM switches work and both power mirrors are affected then this is the only common point.

[@longlivechina7538]

My rear passenger doesnt unlock when i hit unlock, any thoughts mate?

[@logicalfixes]

Thank you for the question, just to clarify is it one or both rear doors as the term “passenger” could refer to either side? The DDM only signals the BCM to Lock/Unlock, so probably not part of the issue. Do the door(s) automatically lock OK? 1. If both sides, check the common “Locks” fuse in the I/P fuse block - lower left-side of dash, this fuse may also feed the lift-gate lock. It could be the Unlock relay (common to both sides) the Lock relay should be the same P/No Omron 12077866, so try swapping (Unlock is nearest the center) The Unlock relay is wired directly by the BCM so it could be wiring or the BCM. 2. If only one side and it won’t either lock or unlock, it could the lock itself or a break in the wiring. There’s a connector hidden inside the Left B Pillar, it’s hard to get at as I understand. However if the Lock operation is OK then it could be mechanical alignment, especially if any work has been done in that area. Please let me know if this helps.

[@longlivechina7538]

@@logicalfixes great post, thank you once again, Its the back passenger door sometimes opens sometimes does not. Was like this on other doors too, i switched in the dic unlock all doors after ignition pulled and that fixed 3 out of 4 doors

[@logicalfixes]

@@longlivechina7538 Could be a ground issue, check ground G203 (Lower Right Side of Dash Near Right Kick Panel) this links all 4 doors. G203 connects to I/P Junction Block Connector C4-A (Lower Right Side of the Dash) which in-turn links via In-Line splice S213 (no sure of location) to the I/P Fuse Block (Lower Left Side of Dash) via Black 12-Way Connector C3-D (black wire 3rd column, 3rd pin down) 12-Way pinouts (top to bottom): M L K J H G F E D C B A G203 though links to a whole load of stuff Stick a meter probe into I/P Fuse Block Black 12-Way C3-D (Black wire) and check this has a good low-ohm connection to chassis ground. This is the ground for the two Lock & Unlock relays (did you try swapping them over?) Similarly the 12-Way Brown Connector C4-K (twin Grey wires) is the 0V drive for the rear unlock operation, C4-E (twin Tan Wires) is the 12V drive for the rear door unlock operation. If you meter between these two you'll see the voltage for both lock and unlock cycles, this should provide a good clue as to what the problem is (if electrical)

[@reginaldotto4411]

Colin, I did try the Proton address it did not work.

[@hummerfixes]

Sorry, thought I replied already. It was a typo (yt=KZbin) should have been [e-mail]

[@user-su1ut4nr8z]

Hello, I live in Russia, I have such a problem hummer h2 2003, took off the window regulator module, the ignition was turned on, disassembled it into two halves, assembled it back into two halves, the module does not work, please tell me how you can bring it back to life?

[@hummerfixes]

Unplugging the module with the ignition on wouldn't normally be a problem. I would carefully dismantle it again and check there are no bent pins or misaligned pins with the membrane pad. Obviously difficult to diagnose from remote. Good luck I hope you solve it ..

[@reginaldotto4411]

When I order a new one, what do you think the old one is worth? How would I ship it to you. This is to public..Reggie

[@hummerfixes]

re Shipping, where are you? My offer would be 15 USD

[@reginaldotto4411]

@@hummerfixes I live in Washington, State, Pacific Northwest

[@hummerfixes]

@@reginaldotto4411 Thanks Reg, please send an email to [e-mail] and we can discuss from there - cheeers

[@hummerfixes]

My apologies, a typo, it should have been [e-mail] (YT as in KZbin, CB my initials) created the email address just for you👍