Thank you for the comments. The choice of Dex6 was made after researching, however you may wish to follow the GM manual if you're unsure. Changing the solenoids is perhaps a step I would not undertake without a specific reason for doing so. Re the exhaust gasket, yes I would and did replace at the time. Hope all goes well 🤞

@ no specific reason other than I have them all. (Don’t ask) but also just watched your fuel pump video, which I will have playing when I’m doing that same job. Very informative.. I do love this car !!!!

​@@jamesallen5627Hope you video the solenoid change, be good to watch. Just to add, I had a request to do the same job, glad I didn't as it turned out to be a PCM issue.

@ will do my best to film …

@@youngak47man1 Thank you for your question. The module can be erased using plastic panel trim tools, they cost a few dollars on Amazon 👍

Thank you for your valued comments, glad you had some success👍

Thank you again for your comments👍

Thanks you so much for your very kind comments. You are right about the effort, it did take quite some time and with YT there's no going back, apart from updating the comments. Again you're words are very much appreciated 🙏

Thanks for the observation. The shocks are dampers rather than load bearing plus the road wheel was still in place. The jack was only used to lift up/ down should a bolt need a little movement to free it, which it didn't.

@@vvampire6099 Email is [email protected]

Thank you for your question. The order details were "Electroluminescent (EL) Panel - 10cm x 10cm Aqua" and it came from "The Pi Hut" however ice blue looks to be a pretty good match👍

Thank you for the mention, hope all goes well🤞

@@alvinbarrera Thank you for your comments, hopefully this video was of value 🤞

@@travr1131 Thank you so much for kind comments, glad you've had success 👍

Thank you for the update. If you google "IRFBA1405P Buy" you will most likely find some on eBay, for example:- www.ebay.com/itm/144883965065 Hope you find some 🤞

Thank you for your very kind comments, much appreciated 🙏

Thank you for your comment 👍

Thank you so much for your feedback 👍

Thank you for your comment. The aluminum mounting-tube corrodes causes the plastic to swell, crack and leak water into the electronics. If the corrosion was removed, the internal electronics dried-out by some method and the unit re-sealed it might be resurrected. I tried doing the same thing, but had no video to guide me, perhaps the information here may put the odds in your favor, you have nothing to loose by trying I guess 🤞

Thank you for your comment. Please can you elaborate or be more specific🙏

Hi , i replaced backlight panel working great. Can you confirm how you adjusted lcd top screws / cams. I adusted i screw from top and fell out so now know you adjust them from under pcb. Did you find to remove any of the lcd clips when adjusting the screws as wonder if you need to remove the lcd pressure while adjusting screws ? Thank you

@@540satnav Thank you for you question. From memory I seem to recall removing the clips, aligning the display against pictures/videos taken beforehand, a good starting point would be to align it centrally then work from there. Think I was lucky in that the 50/50 start point worked 1st time, but it could take a little trial and error. Hope you manage to align it 🫰

Thank you for your comment, glad this video helped 👍

Thank for your comment. If you could please post some links, they may help others having issues, thank you👍

Thank you for your question. The sensor's mounting hole is only partially-threaded hole and also has a chassis locating peg. The sensor's special screw has an unthreaded portion which can pass through the sensor's threaded section. The sensor's locating peg pushes into the framework leaving it's threaded section outermost. The special screw winds through the sensor hole and into the chassis, it's unthreaded section means the sensor is fully clamped against the chassis. Perhaps the screw has been replaced with a standard screw, or the sensor has been mounted upside down? If don't have the original screw you could modify a standard screw by removing enough thread for it to almost pass through the sensor. Hope this description helps 👍

Actually to answer your question, the sensors should be fixed with no play, if you can please keep us posted on anything you find🤞🏼

I had some pretty bad markings on the gold parts and gently used a pencil eraser to clean them, then wiped again with the alcohol.

Thank you so much for your comment, hopefully it will continue to work for many more years to come👍

Thank you for your comment, appreciated. Good points, the O-ring did appear OK, and certainly next time won't be changed. However for my 1st time, given the vehicle's age, mileage, sevice history, oil cost, time and effort required, to be 100% certain the O-Ring is OK and not degraded or damaged seemed worth it. Regarding battery disconnection, this step could be omitted, however it's all about safety, reducing risk from accidental shorts or running the battery low etc and it only takes a minute to do, so again seemed worth it. All viewpoints are important so people can decide how to do a job and do it safely.

Thank you for your comments. Apologies, no direct experience with H3, the motor itself looks to be a different animal, one imagines the work would be similar.

Thank you for your comments. As promised a copy of the guide has been emailed to you👍

Thank you very kindly for your comments and for subscribing, a beer sounds great!

Thank you for your comment. The choice to change the oil pan depends if you want to add a drain plug. To perform the progressive series of fluid changes it would ease the workload considerably. Sadly it's not possible to drain all the fluid in one visit without special equipment, or should I say it's not easy.