Hunt Couplings on Trial at Chadwick Model Railway | 156.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

On further investigation of the "Back to Backs" on the Dogfish, measured with a vernier caliper, they all measure around 14.1mm. Hopefully this is the derailing issue. What are the "Back to Backs on yours?

[@lasseystad3266]

Only have one 00 gauge wagon and it has boogies. Measure 14.3 and 14.4 between inner flanges.

[@RobA500]

Like you I run on code 100 rail and use a 14.4 Markits back to back gauge to check things. I do have a 14.5 one but found on some older stock that extra .1mm caused problems, you’d never have thought.

[@Mark_W_L]

Charlie, I use the NMRA HO gauge to check wheelsets. This uses 14.55mm back to back. Anything down to 14.37mm or up to 14.6mm will still pass.

[@miketreehouse]

Isn't the back to back misleading? Thicker flanges would give different results on the key value, which is rail to rail.

[@RobA500]

@@miketreehouse I'd say both yes and no to that question. You are right about thicker flanges which is why I use code 100 rail as it's not just the rail depth that is slightly bigger I believe the gap for the check rails is a bit more forgiving though I've not done a side by side comparison to confirm this. That is where the back to back is important as if it's too narrow then the wheels will ride up on the check rails and inner parts of the frog on points.

[@tonyslight826]

Hi Charlie I have shown great interest in hunt couplings. Chris is bringing out hunt couplings that pivot. I spoke to him on the phone about 4 weeks ago, I said I would need at that moment 30 pairs he told me to give him a week and he would have them ready I haven't heard a word from him since after several phone calls, very disappointing I must say. He is also had a mention in the Hornby magazine about these pivot ones. I have about 40 very nice mainline wagons that I have converted to Nem pockets I looked at the price of kadee and are far too expensive for me it would cost me a small fortune to change over to them as i have loads of modern wagons to convert. I deed like them after seeing your review on them some time ago.so I wait with bated breath for some response from west hill wagon works or Chris. Thank you Charlie for another great video.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Tony, perhaps it’s worth checking out the website because I thought these pivoted couplings were available. Regards Charlie

[@tonyslight826]

did I say deed oops

[@garethparry7633]

I’m not a railway modeller but really enjoy the videos. The skill demonstrated, great explanations and excellent presentation gives me hours of relaxing pleasure. Even when you make a mistake its a good watch!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting Gareth. Regards Charlie

[@trafficface]

My Autistic son will absolutely love these couplings, we have so much trouble and frustration usually locos get shaken about, this is one step towards a more accessible railway that we can both play with. Thanking you!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

What a brilliant comment Adam. That’s something that I hadn’t considered. Regards Charlie

[@aspicer15]

I love Hunt elite couplings tried them on a rake of carriages on my garden railway as I was having issues with the old couplings fitted so impressed changed all my rolling stock to them great for fast change over of rolling stock or locos and if you happen to have a derailment or packing away.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes Al, generally they are brilliant. Not so good in a shunting environment but still very useful. Regards Charlie

[@alvanspicer3539]

yes I agree no good for shunting but perfect on my layout where I only run rolling stock

[@rogerstonham3631]

Informative as always. However you forgot probably the most important part of getting the right coupling - reversing. It is relatively straightforward to pull wagons through a set of points reversing is a different matter and would have liked to see how the dogfish train coped with the reverse running through the points the same way as they failed with the original couplings. Am almost set on changing but would much like to know how they work in reverse.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’ll sort that once I’ve sorted the back to backs Roger.

[@Midsussexrailway]

In my experience you can literally drive trains in reverse for whole circuits and shunt with thight pointwork on my steam fleet, it's called the train set test Dragon junction did it on camera!

[@grahamthompson6622]

Thanks once more for an informative video. As a long time (more than a year) user of Hunt couplings I thought it might help some of your subscribers if I added a few more observations. First the positive ones. They don't ever uncouple in normal use - and this includes hauling eight heavy Pullmans with lights up a long tightly curved 1 in 40 gradient. As your video shows at 22.20 they will, however, helpfully uncouple following an accident and often prevent further damage. Second, they self-align when recoupling on a curve, something that can be quite difficult with more traditional couplings. They also self-align vertically and avoid the problems all too frequent with vertical alignment mis-match on too much of my proprietary stock. The biggest (for me) disadvantage is that they form a fairly inflexible coupling which can itself cause derailments with longer wheelbase wagons (and this includes some loco tenders) on tighter curves including radius 3. Hunt have now introduced a jointed coupling to overcome this, but I have not yet been able to acquire any of these to try out. Finally, I should mention that Hunt is not the only supplier of magnetic couplings and I have had equal success with the alternatives. Keep up the good work. This is still the best forum on KZbin.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

An excellent comment Graham. I have seen the swivel headed version but I have no experience of them. I still believe in solid couplings between permanent coaching stock and Kadee’s for loco connections. It’s still early days for me! Regards Charlie.

[@terryrobinson7371]

I’m also experimenting with Hunt Couplings, I would however be interested in the details of the alternative magnetic couplings you refer too. Thanks

[@grahamthompson6622]

@@terryrobinson7371 The other magnetic couplings I use are Chunk couplings from Porter House Models (IIRC). Ebay will find them.

[@theelectricmonk3909]

@@terryrobinson7371 Another option is GL magnetic couplings - I had no idea these existed until I saw a video elsewhere which compared the original Hunt couplings (polarised) with them. Now that Hunts are non-polarised, IMHO they look a little bit better. I've been experimenting with these on old Triang/Hornby/Dublo stuff (using NEM pockets from The Rail Works): my old Dublo Deltic can cheerfully pull 13 various vintages of Triang/Hornby coaches around with little bother, despite some of them being quite poor on the rolling resistance. Most of my steam trains just sit there spinning their wheels with that train, though!

[@johnwalker9750]

I bought a pack of Hunt Couplings to be fitted to old style wagon couplings (Bachmamn bulk grain). Sadly it turned out to be a disaster as the train kept derailing as the couplings were too rigid. Looks like the new pivoting Hunt Couplings would be the solution, but in the meantime I've refitted the old tension lock ones!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Gosh, a real step backwards there John.

[@johnogden4840]

Hi Charlie, They look fine but they don’t appear to fill your criteria for couplings, in so much as shunting. They’re permanent magnets so they won’t uncouple unless you pull them apart. I can see them being useful for fixed rakes with a Kadee at both ends. Cheers John

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes John, that’s exactly my intention with the Hunt Couplings. My rakes which needs breaking up, will always use KD couplings. Regards Charlie

[@pmichael73]

More practical problem solving! Thank you!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re very welcome mate, regards Charlie

[@charlesrussell8137]

Great video and so I ordered a starter pack of Hunt couplings to see how they were. They are excellent. The problem I had was a mismatch of height between couplings on various wagons which is exacerbated by the start of a slope and a join in the boards. This causes some Kadees to decouple. The Hunt couplings cope with movement in a vertical plane without any problem at all. Thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes I found that to Charles, the Hunt Couplings are much more forgiving on vertical curves. Regards Charlie

[@AJSAN1971]

As someone who is returning to the hobby I find this kind of video very helpful. I've not had a "train set" for over 30 years and things have moved on a bit shall we say.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it interesting AN. Regards Charlie

[@zodzod9378]

Well done Charlie more things made easy and ponder over ? I guess we all need like a fine screw adjustable magnet fitting from short to long 1 click 0.5 mm out or in to cover the full spec needed ? Im on it ! see you soon loved it as always mate ! John from Chichester..

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie

[@Culreoch]

Thanks for a great video Charlie - My first use of Hunt couplings was on my HST sets and was delighted when sets ran equally well in each direction even up and down my helixes. I am now replacing all my tension lock and Kadee couplings with Hunt couplings and all stock so far completed have run perfectly in either direction.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s great news, regards Charlie.

[@44662dc]

Hi Charlie well I do have to say that I absolutely love Hunt Couplers. Like you I have had to use different lengths but overall I am very pleased with them . They can also be used on old Bachman parcel vans where there is no NEM pocket only the original Mainline pip at either side and a retaining screw. I do however compromise with the loco's as I do like KD's attached to the loco and lead vehicle purely for coupling/uncoupling purposes Superb Video Charlie always helpful and informative.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Dennis, we’re clearly singing from the same song sheet. Regards Charlie

[@WhiskeyGulf71]

I know it pushes up the price points but i am a big fan of rolling stock with sprung buffers that allow buffer contact coupling. The Hornby Sealions & Seacow wagons came with said sprung buffers.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I do understand your point of view. However, it does help to push the price up, which doesn’t suit younger modellers trying to break into the hobby. Regards Charlie

[@briansa]

Thank you again Charlie, very good and informative, as always. Getting the right couplings is a huge subject and so important. Chucking triang horrors is important of course, but it is an expensive exercise changing them all, so any information on the various alternatives is very useful. Easy to fit is one part, close coupling is great, but performance in both directions is vital, in order to cope with all aspects of running, like push-pull trains, top and tail, shunting and uncoupling. Finding which suits your own requirements is a minefield.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I couldn’t agree more Brian. We are extremely poorly served by the manufacturing community. Regards Charlie

[@michaelmiller641]

The plastic wheels seem to attract dirt, and it's important to get rid of that, I use kadees on my passenger stock, and as all my wagons are fixed rake, they are coupled with Smith's 3-link and screw link couplings, with all the fiddling involved if one wagon separates, thanks for the video, Charlie

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Michael. For my fixed rates of coaches I opt to use the Bachman loop type couplings. Regards Charlie

[@gregoryhale2202]

Hi Charlie, a very interesting video. There is an old saying "there are horses for courses", so I guess the same applies to couplers. It is a matter of mixing and matching to get a result the works for your rolling stock. I use three different types of couplers to get the result that works for me. No more derailments makes me a happy modeler. All the best.....Sincerely Greg

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes very true Greg. My shunting of goods wagons will always revert to KD couplings. Regards Charlie

[@kennethmcintyre2847]

Enjoyed your comments on Hunt couplings. Started off with the original design then moved over to the Elite type, dual polarity. All my stock which runs to over three hundred locos and hundreds of passenger and freight cars are all Hunt units. I spoke at length with Chris at the Glasgow show, as you can read by my comments, I have bought scores of his couplings.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you have a workable solution Kenneth, but blimey what an expense! Regards Charlie

[@johnmassey7687]

useful information Charlie. I use a 14.3mm spacing on my wheels and haven t had any derailing problems with code 100 track k

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks John, much appreciated. Regards Charlie

[@Mustang00007]

I clean my wheels with Inox and cloth,cotton buds with the Inox.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Mustang, yes good choices.

[@bill1047]

Two packs ordered - thanks Charlie!

[@4dads823]

A very good video Charlie, one thing I did note is the magnetic couplings also take the concerns surrounding slightly uneven benchwork out of the equation (your second from the top loop of the helix is an example where it flattens significantly).

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes you’re dead right. They do takeaway the harshness of vertical curves. Regards Charlie

[@tunsteadmoor]

My only issue with them compared to kadees is actually uncoupling them if you need to break up a rake. They are so strong they literally pull the nem clip out of the socket instead of decoupling at the magnet.. great for fixed rakes but the ease you can break up kadee rakes in the fiddle yard wins for me

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

An interesting observation mate, regards Charlie

[@barryturner2916]

Hi Charlie thanks for sharing another great informative interesting video. I use the wife’s cotton sticks (lol) with track cleaner on the wheels and a little liquid lead in the wagons and have found this works. Take care and please remember to stay safe 👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Barry and do take care as well mate.

[@mrbluesky2050]

spent many a year with two display/ exhibition layouts R & M Quarries and Linfit West, everything was Kaydee couplers, mostly body mounted, apart from some Bachmann 37 and 08, where the socket was at the correct height... never had any problems, AND unlike these magnetic / Tomy Trains thingys, I could shunt , couple and uncouple. as they say, Change My Mind....

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

But sadly Richard that’s not quite the whole story. In a previous comment a gentleman thought the magnetic couplings are ideal because his autistic son could use them much easier. His boy had trouble with tension lock couplings and I see his point. It’s horses for courses mate. Regards Charlie

[@LNERandBR]

I highly recommend Hunt couplings, they've not only brought my stock closer together but also made it far easier to pack away at shows. It's so much easier to just pull the trains apart than having to mess around with other types of couplings. As you mention, they take a little bit of fettling sometimes and could need a drop of glue to make sure they stay put but I've often had to do that for other couplings too.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

We are clearly in agreement on this one mate.

[@hellooldchap]

I've used Hunt couplings for a few years now. Get the odd duff fitting NEM and some magnets need a dab of glue, but all good, even with a 12 coach train.

[@nicholasbishop3300]

Great result Charlie Thanks for all the info very informative Nick Australia

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Nick.

[@barleyarrish]

now this is something I really must try! thank you Charlie.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie

[@StBlazeyModelWorld]

Yet another informative and enjoyable video Charlie. I hope you remembered to clean and replace Margaret's nail file before she returned home! I told my good lady that your latest video was about coupling. I cannot repeat what she said here! Cleaning our models, whatever they maybe, has become a bit of a focus for me, based on my last few adventures. Looking forward to the next one greatly as I have been asked many questions about how I go about cleaning. As always, stay safe mate.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Roger, I hope all is well with you. Yes these couplings are a real so-and-so! Sadly my cleaning solution is far from inexpensive! Stay safe mate, regards Charlie

[@petermayes1750]

Hi charlie thanks to you i am a fan hunts couplings,and inox.I have used buckeye style less magnet showing,on my coach stock with klinetic? couplings fantastic.As for inox after treatment all my sounded locos operate with no breaks in sound, previous use of a ROCCO cleaning wagon now redundant.PS hst gaps on gangways i have found FAIR PRICE MODELS that do gangway bellows worth a try 4.20 english pounds for 10 cheap as chips thanks again for videos

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that the couplings have brought you success. Regards Charlie

[@derekloudon8731]

A very useful video Charlie, thank you.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Derek, regards Charlie

[@donsharpe5786]

Thanks for the video Charlie. I am thinking that the magnet couplings may be the way forward particularly for freight stock. Couplings has been an issue for the last 60 years and I have standardised on different couplings several times. It is made so much easier now with NEM sockets, so changing is so much easier.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sadly Don, it’s still a nightmare.Some couplings will work for certain trains where as some are better for others. Regards Charlie

[@donsharpe5786]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Maybe I will fix link three wagons together with magnetic couplings at each end. I could even use chain link for the in between wagons, which are a nightmare to couple and uncouple.

[@neiloflongbeck5705]

David Jenkinson always said: if a vehicle derails at random locations then check the vehicle and if random vehicles derail at the same location check the track. But he made his own track.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

An excellent point Neil. It’s something we all should keep an eye out for. Regards Charlie

[@brenthopley874]

Hi there Charlie, another interesting TY clip, thank you as usual. You asked for comment on cleaning wheels so here's my penny's worth. I model in US and DB N, US O, NZR 9mm/ft (1:33.86 running on Peco O scale track) and dabble in US HO with a loco and 8 cars (the latter as part of a number of operating groups). The US O and 9mm trains are run on a 50x20ft modular exhibition layout where clean wheels and track are critical to keeping the public entertained for 12 hours over two days. I've replaced all the wheels across all my locos and rolling stock (in all scales) with plated wheels which has significantly reduced the need to clean them. As for cleaning them when required its just hard graft with a knife blade to scrape any heavy build up and alcohol with cotton buds to finish off and for lighter "dirt".

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Brent, for an excellent comment. Regards Charlie

[@carlward9523]

Hi Charlie, thanks for yet another informative video. I have experimented with a wide range of coupling methods over the years and found that Hunt couplings are great for only certain types or should I say uses of my rolling stock. For coaches I find them great as they keep a “respectable” distance between carriages and very rarely produce problems as long as you keep a careful eye on coupling length avoiding the buffering issues you point out. However, whilst undoubtedly they work just as well for weighted wagons I do like to marshall my wagons in the two yards I have on my layout. In this instance the inability to uncouple without the use of the “hand of god” I have chosen to stick with Kadee couplings. Sure these require more care in setting them up and ensuring things like back to backs are good and the wagons are correctly weighted, however I do find that they give me what I’m looking for when shunting wagons to build a new train. I look forward to your next video however as keeping wagon wheels clean I find to be one of the more tedious jobs. Personally I use a cotton bud and IPA. But I’m always willing to learn.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

An interesting comment Carl. I still use KD couplings for all shunting movements. Regards Charlie

[@philsrailway5910]

Hi Charlie good one, i use hunt couplings and kadee too. Plus I hide things from my wife too...... Keep it up mate stay safe.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

We sing from the same song sheet Phil. Regards Charlie.

[@alan051254]

Hi Charlie. Many thanks for the video. That was, I must say, very informative. Living in Canada, I would never keep up with things like Hunt couplings. I like them. Hope to try them out sometime. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Alan, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie

[@alantoms3263]

I have a lot of older / original Hunt's couplings - very original idea and nicely executed. Did you have any couplings 'pull out' of their sockets? I've glued in a few of my heavier / faster rakes - Bachmann 100-tonne bogie TEA and HST Mk.3 rakes for this reason. Alan.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Not on this latest batch Alan but, yes in the past.

[@johnlong3214]

Margaret's nail file? yeah right! Thank you Charlie👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Oh dear, my secret’s out!

[@maltnz]

Around 18:47ish as the wagons snake across the points one wagon jumps a little - but as you said, no derailment.

[@maltnz]

Oops - should have kept watching before adding this comment.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, it leapt off sadly.

[@colinrimmer789]

Very interesting Charlie I’ve been contemplating these couplings for use on my representation of the NR Structure Gauging train. Thanks 😁

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Colin. Regards Charlie

[@patmccarthy1624]

Fascinating info, Charlie! I've been stuck on Kadee couplers for so many decades that I seldom even look at the other varieties available as shows and such. I very much appreciate your opening my eyes (once again) to new products. Keep these coming! Thanks for the lesson! Can't wait for the vid on cleaning wheels!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Pat, the wheel cleaning is a massive challenge. Regards Charlie

[@davidsheriff8989]

One of your most informative videos.....great stuff

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks David, that’s very kind of you to say so mate. Regards Charlie

[@auxie22]

Great video Charlie, as always... I generally replace those wheels because no matter what you do they seem to always warp and derail. Once replaced I use cottons buds and Inox MX3 (The track cleaner you recommend).

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think that your right, I shall have to source some replacements. Regards Charlie.

[@timsully8958]

Lucky that you had your nail file laying around…I mean…lucky that you found MARGARET’s nail file lying around 😜 Yeah those couplings are great. Like I said last time around, I got some last year to use on some wagons which I bought cheap precisely because they were ‘used condition’ and many of the couplings were either broken or flimsy. I only bought ten pairs but will certainly look to get more I think, especially for fixed rakes of carriages. However, since I have suspended railway activities until we move, that will just have to wait for another day! 😄 I must say though that the system works well precisely because it is so wonderfully simple. And of course, as you showed, it is flexible. I also loved that in my experiments I was able to run a J72 back wards with 8 wagons on and once I had sorted out some wheel issues, it continued for about 10 minutes around my glorified test track in the garden (which has minimum third radius) without any further derailment! 😎 I was due to go to Ally Pally but couldn’t in the end due to work. A case of the big railway having to take priority over the little one you might say 🙄 But I shall most definitely be taking a good gander at his stall when I next go to a big show 🤔 Hope you manage to sort out the yips on those pesky wagons. Those Seacows really enhance that rake by the way. Once the wagons stop leaping off the track it will look great 😉 Cheers Charlie 👍🍀🍻

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A great comment Tim and much appreciated. Regards Charlie

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Enjoyed your lateset video you done thanks for sharing.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks charlie great support always.

[@samuraifool912]

Thanx for this Info Charlie. "A great Heads up moment..!" I have tried using other Couplings ( From USA) but find them Expensive and fiddly. These Couplings look like a Simple process to fit and Uncouple and at a Reasonable cost. As I have always hated the Drop link couplings. They look so unrealistic..! They Work in most cases but just look Naff..!! Will be seeking a Starter pack immediately. Australia can be a Little like the End of the World for new product. ( Probably because it almost is..! Well my bit anyway..!) So Thanx for the heads up..!! Cheers kim in Oz. 😎

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kim I’m so pleased that you found the video useful mate. Regards Charlie

[@andrewpalm2103]

Another informative video, Charlie. Early in the video I noticed the state of those wheels. I hope you have found an efficient solution. Off and on I've been going through my rolling stock to improve their appearance with more weathering on the bodies and repainting the trucks and couplers to include rust effects. Another part of this is to remove paint from the wheel treads to make them shine like the real thing. I've been using flexible sanding sticks and it is a real chore. Fortunately my layout and fleet are quite small, and I'd be looking for something much faster on a layout your size! Cheers from Wisconsin..

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks for your comment Andrew. Wheel cleaning is a real chore and the noise off dirty wheels is dreadful.

[@jazzman1626]

Excellent couplings and the loco has a great sound.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Jazz Man, regards Charlie

[@SuperRobertwillis]

Thank you for this vlog Charlie very helpful been having trouble with my couplings for years I let you know how I get on😂😂😂😂❤️❤️

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Good luck Robert, regards Charlie

[@bryanlane62]

And another thing…… Wheel cleaning - I use cotton buds and IPA (not the beer 🤣) to clean wheels. I also use the Tidy Track Roto wheel cleaner for locomotives. The problem with the Tidy Track Roto cleaner of course is that it’s only useful for powered wheels. I’m looking forward to seeing your discussion on cleaning wheels of coaches, wagons and non driving loco wheels because I have loads and don’t want to spend the rest of my life cleaning them !

[@davidstokes8441]

Thanks again Charlie for an entertaining and educational program. I use Kadee's but the Hunt's certainly deserve consideration. I am looking forward to wheel cleaning (your program), but not the actual job on the Norwest Bend Railway in a few weeks time when trains again will run.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m pleased that you enjoyed it David, and hopefully the wheel cleaning video will be useful too. Regards Charlie

[@JamesPetts]

For wheel cleaning, I use fibreglass brushes. Also - I missed you at Alexandra Palace. I was on the Model Railway Club demonstration stand all week-end making up MERG kits.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sort James, I did visit your stand but clearly you may have been with another modeller. Regards Charlie

[@JamesPetts]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Ahh, this is entirely possible. I did take time off to look at the other stands. I hope that you enjoyed the exhibition!

[@patmcdermott4832]

Another fine video, Charlie. As Kadee's are expensive why doesn't someone manufacture "N" style knuckle couplings for "OO" with NEM pocket fittings? I ran "N" for years & also had old Dublo & PECO ANITA knuckle couplers for "OO". No problems & simple auto uncoupling. It was when Tri-ang took over Dublo they opted to use tension lock as standard. Maybe Mr. Hunt might oblige? ;-)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think you summed up the situation quite well Pat, couplings are simply dreadful. Regards Charlie

[@marcdempsey5850]

Hi Charlie, firstly thank you for all the one liners. Had me smiling throughout. A great interesting video, very informative. Interesting to hear how much fine tuning a modeller does to get where they wish to be. Things are never straight forward and many lessons learned, sharing is the best part. A this channel is ideal. Hope the rolling stock get sorted and work in the end. Looking forward to the next instalment, wheel cleaning. All best for now. Marc

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Marc, I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting mate. Regards Charlie

[@ianjames1352]

Thanks for the tips Charlie. I have almost replaced all my tention lock couplings as I don't like them (if have a lot if someone wants them).I have replaced them with huts couplings and kdees on the loco and first wagon. You make a good point on the distance between the buffers. So when I get my rolling on the board I look into that.(not long for putting the rolling stock on the board fiddle yard and helix are about to go in now and that will be fun and games.) If you have a cmx cleaner as I saw in everard junction he runs this a round the track then he take rolling stock with mucky wheels and send this just behind the cleaner and this cleans his wheels on the rolling stock.so I have tried this and it does work.no breaking rolling stock or locos because of fat fingers.l am pleased with the out come of the rolling stock.See what you think?. Look forward to your next video cheers 👍😀

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Ian, and thanks for the great comment. Yes I do have a CMX cleaner, but of course once the dirt comes off the wheels where does it go? Hopefully you’ll enjoy my next video. Regards Charlie

[@helmutsandner867]

Thanks Charlie for another interesting and informative presentation. Greetings from Australia.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re most welcome Helmut. Regards Charlie

[@richlawrence4160]

How do they uncoupled and shunt correctly. A quick backwards push for Tension locks over a ramp and for kadees over a magnet for example. Kadees can then be pushed back further without coupling (sometimes) while tension locks will recouple instantly. So how do these Hunt style work?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sadly, Rich, they require the hand of God. There is no uncoupling method for these. However, for getting stock on and off the layout it is much simpler and they do couple closer. Regards, Charlie.

[@richlawrence4160]

@@ChadwickModelRailway thanks Charlie, I saw in later comments you intend to keep them in rakes, so this makes for a perfect solution. With all kadees on short wheelbase UK style stock it is almost impossible to stop anywhere over a magnet without something uncoupling. Your videos are excellent too, thanks for the loads of well presented good information.

[@roystudds1944]

Really interesting video Charlie. Thanks for sharing. I’m in the process of considering changing my couplings and spoke with Chris at the stand on Saturday as all my coaches are about 40 years old and pre-Nem pocket. He told me that they are developing couplings suitable for my era of rolling stock probably available around June/July so I can wait to see what they produce. There’s some really interesting comments developed from this video that have given me lots to think about. Thanks for sharing. Roy.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you’ve had an interesting ride. Chris seems a very likable chap and I’m sure he will sort you out. Regards Charlie

[@onnomulder9775]

Very educational video Charlie!!! Thanks again for sharing! Cheers Onno.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Onno, regards Charlie

[@rogerbass6235]

Hello Charlie, not on Hunts but "Back to back" . DCC have just emailed me advertising their now in stock, "Brass back-to-back gauge for Standard OO and HO ready to run, plus models built using BRSMB wheel standards OR running on pointwork built using OO-SF standards for common crossing and related gauging.. Click to view other sizes in our back to back gauge range." together with a picture of a vernier caliper gauge measuring the external accuracy of their 14.5mm gauge, but I see that the vernier has two other calipers for measuring internal sizes of pipes etc. Can these not confirm the wheel width if there are running issues? Can't wait for Friday, thank you Roger

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes I’ve had that email too. I do use the internal measuring for back to back. I like to see what is out of gauge. Here’s to Friday. 🤞

[@daviemaclean61]

I'm in the process of converting all my rolling stock to Hunt couplings. The majority of my wagons are second hand, of widely varying ages and with different versions of tension lock couplings from the old rivetted metal ones to relatively narrow plastic ones. I have yet to come across an NEM pocket on any of them (I told you they were old!) so, once I have established the correct height and reach, I glue them on. I know this is sacrelige to many, but I don't have any intention of getting rid of any, and I'm sure it wont be beyond the wit of the next modeller to fashion something else if they end up elsewhere when I eventually shuffle off!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A decent strategy Davie. Regards Charlie

[@daviemaclean61]

Saw the Accurascale Class 31's at Modelrail Scotland and they're my favourite loco. However, I'm unsure about buying one as it'll make my other four look like crap!

[@stephenrushmer833]

Thanks for another cracking video, very interesting 👍🏻

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s very kind of you to say so Stephen. Regards Charlie

[@stevenbrindley2469]

Great informative upload again. I've noticed Kadee couplers are now much more expensive so the Hunt couplings could be an option for me.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

My thoughts exactly Steve, except for automatic uncoupling.

[@michaelimpey1407]

Charlie, Thank you for a very interesting and informative video. In Oz, we tend to use the Kadee knuckle couplers, and yes sometimes you need to change lengths. My apologies for the fat fingered reply to your facebook post about your find in the Antique Shop. The buttons on the phone are too small. Cheers, and stay safe. Michael

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I know the feeling Michael. I often dictate replies to avoid fat finger errors!

[@darrenmould8676]

Darrenbury Central Hi very imformative and enjoyable show i learned a lot.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Darren, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful.

[@stuartgoble]

Well, you've sparked the debate on this one Charlie judging by the comments. I've been using Hunt Couplings on my N Scale fleet for some time now and they have been a great addition. The older ones that were polarity sensitive were a bit of a challenge and I have an HST set that still has to be put together in a specific way for them to work. But having now moved to the newer N scale buckeye couplings they look a lot better and are so much easier to work with. In N scale we don't have Heljan thankfully, so no Danish over-engineered fiddly bits to fettle. Good find on your Sea Lions' I was going to rudely comment the other week that you needed to get yourself a Mermaid or two but thought that might have been taken the wrong way 🙂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that Hunt Couplings suit your N gauge layout Stuart. Regards Charlie

[@russrh]

This is perfectly timed, just bought a pack of Hunts for my APT

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Good luck and do let us know how you get on.

[@jamesbeckwith3639]

Hiya... excellent videos... Hunt couplings are okay if all you want to do is run fixed rakes of wagons, like in the modern eras, but if you want to do some shunting they don't seem to be any good as you will have to use the hand of god to uncouple the wagons or coaches or detach locos from stock, unless you do what someone has suggested in the comments on here and put alternative couplings between the loco and first piece of rolling stock.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes James, I totally agree. KD couplings are always my go to option for shunting operations. Regards Charlie

[@williamgordon207]

Very interesting video Charlie. Any replacement coupling appears to be an improvement on the tension lock type. The magnet types are simple enough but they don’t really look very realistic. The kadee’ s look very realistic but from your previous video, they look a bit fiddly to fit correctly. The ability to perform an ‘uncouple shuffle’ is a big plus for the kadee’s. It’s astonishing really that the big manufacturers will sell a DCC loco for hundreds of pounds, and then fit ridiculous tension lock couplings. When I get the time I’m going to experiment with all the coupling types you have shown. I do hope that when your Accurascale class 31 arrives, you will make a review video on it? I’m a big fan of the Accurascale stuff, and I have also ordered a class 31. I bought some Accurascale wagons last year and the detail was outstanding. Hopefully the class 31 will be equally impressive.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi William, many thanks for your comment. Besides the class 31, I’ve also ordered the class 37 which should be out this autumn. The couplings issue will go on and on but hopefully from the train to the locomotive the Kadee’s will always work. Regards Charlie

[@williamgordon207]

@@ChadwickModelRailway yes, I have a class 37 on order too. And I couldn’t resist their deltic s, so I’ve got that on order too. Been waiting 2 years for the deltic but it’s finally due for delivery any day and I can’t wait. Will just have to hide all these from the Mrs when the postie delivers!

[@thedorsetbear2921]

I’m using Hunt couplings with in rakes of coaches: very pleased with the results, and changing the the rakes is easy. They make a particular improvement to the look of the Hornby 4 wheel LBSC coaches. However shunting is a problem. I can live with the ‘hand of god’ for uncoupling tension lock couplings, but with the Hunts you have to separate the wagons by quite a distance or they pull themselves together again. Worse still, as you bring the loco gently up to pick up truck, it suddenly leaps forward as if by magic as the couplers attract each other. So it’s Hunts within rakes, but tension locks on wagons and end of rakes. As an aside, I find Kadee couplings ugly. None of the stock on my railway would have had buckeye couplings, and the curved hanger seems more obtrusive than the smaller tension lock versions.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A great comment Matthew, thank you. Of course you can always cut off the magnetic hooks from the K D’s. Regards Charlie

[@aleopardstail]

Wheel cleaning... oh gods wheel cleaning.. my stock is N gauge, mostly Lima from the 1980s, some Farish of a similar age. cleaning when it was bought second hand was cotton buds and IPA, and some music, and teas as it took ages but made a huge difference. coaches got the same treatment, have found anything with an electrical pickup or resistor for block detection gets dirty, unpowered stuff less so with metal wheels. plastic wheels are the worst by far, not got a reliable method of cleaning them yet

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s very interesting Dale. I shall check out my resistored (if that’s a real word) stock. Regards Charlie

[@simonbradshaw3708]

Hi Charlie, thank you for another interesting video. When you look to put Kadee couplings on the class 22, please share how you do that and any Hymeks as I have drooping tension lock couplings on my locos. I'm interested to see next time if you have/will purchase a track wheel cleaner.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Simon, I most certainly will keep you informed. Regards Charlie

[@kennethclark3933]

Very informative. I saw these couplings at Model Rail Scotland and was intrigued. I use kadees at present but one of us from Aberdeen bought a tester pack to try them out. My principal question is "how far beyond the buffer head should the end of the coupling be". Kadees are simple in that the jaw should be in line with the buffer head (I think). Isn't there a similar 'rule' for these couplings? A standard around which you can play for particular wagons? And what about coaches? Lots here for you to examine and report on here, Charlie. Look forward to it.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Kenneth, it’s early days but I’m going for 2mm beyond the buffers.

[@MrDavil43]

My pal and I spent the Saturday at Ally Pally, and now we both have Covid. There must have been a B.O.G.O.F. offer that we inadvertently signed up to! I'm feeling a bit rough, but as the family are keeping their distance from me I'm hoping to construct a kit or two. It's an ill wind etc etc

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You poor chap Davil, on our coach of 29, we seem to have gotten away with it!. Regards Charlie

[@MalcolmRadford]

Hi Charlie Thanks for informative videos. A subject you may not have covered. How do you get your wife to agree to turning a spare bedroom in to a room for model railway?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Tread very carefully, a happy wife is a happy life! Regards Charlie

[@gordonhanning476]

I am gradually changing all my stock to hunt couplings. I find them very reliable.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I do understand your thought process Gordon. However, my coaches are in fixed rates and I will leave the Bachman pipe type couplings fitted to those. Regards Charlie

[@beckster181]

I found more de rail problems were caused by the back to back measurements than simply dirty wheels but weight of wagon was the second most usual cause. Glad to see your views on the Hunt couplers and the need to make some adjustments to either the paired lengths or the compression gaps in them. To me this is not such a bad idea as it allows you to fine tune the coupler to the NEM box for a better overal fit and therefore effect, as for the mixing of lengths while it can be a pain to do initially the overall effect is to get the couplers to have a more realistic gap look which is always good. The other thing is the buffer lock situation which for some modelers is always a worry where others never need worry as they model stuff without buffers like US style wagons or modern Aussie wagons which all have no buffers and rely only on the couplers to take the hits and pull of the wagons. In my opnion this is what leads to many of the broken knuckles in the US real life stuff as this must efect the metal of the coupler knuckle. I have also noticed that US stuf at times looses the whole coupler rom under a wagon pulled from the depths od the undercarrage , this to me is likely a sign of less than optimal servicing of the wagons. Thankfully not something we need to model but need to think about as we do need to carry out our own maintance of both locos and wagons. Final thought does a real rail wagon or carrage have to have buffers?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A great comment BB. I can’t think of any new rolling stock that now has Buffers installed. Regards Charlie

[@rdrhouse]

surely it would be better for the customer to buy a single coupling of each length in a pack. These could be kept for checking new stock whenever they are bought. PS. sorry for calling you Shirley.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think that it seems to be a popular pack. Perhaps only time will tell, regards Charlie

[@martynbuzzing3327]

Very interesting, something I probably wouldn’t have thought about. My iPad is going wrong and the picture is misted. The vid of your train running around looked like running through early morning mist. I need a new iPad...

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I sometimes feel that early morning mist Martyn, is blowing through my mind! Regards Charlie

[@martynbuzzing3327]

@@ChadwickModelRailway You're doing just great Charlie. Your videos are always interesting. I don't have a layout myself so yours is making up for it.

[@modelrailwaynoob]

I'd had mixed results with magnetic couplings. On the face of it, they are fantastic and were great at connecting HO to 00, for example. However the plastics in 3D printers weren't brilliant and they sometimes pulled out of the NEM pockets. As time goes on, the quality of the plastics should improve, if it hasn't already (it is a couple of years since I bought some).

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You are of course right, they are not without their minor drawbacks. Regards Charlie

[@andrewellaway9086]

Hi Charlie, they look very useful, and here’s the but. How do you replace the original Hornby/Triang couplings which don’t have NEM pockets? Still very helpful. Cheers Andy

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Andy, if you check out the Hunt Couplings website, you will find they do make a magnetic couplings which screws into where the old Hornby coupling used to sit. Regards Charlie

[@andrewellaway9086]

Thanks Charlie

[@Cheadleridgelanetmd]

I clean my wheels with a dremmel with a soft wire brush attachment using it to spin coach or wagon wheels and clean them

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I shall certainly try that CRL.

[@Cheadleridgelanetmd]

@@ChadwickModelRailway works a treat

[@Andries1963]

Hi Charlie, great video (as always) I’m still a little doubtful as to the benefit of magnetic couplings, i mean for me I love shunting and the ability to disconnect rolling stock without the reaching in and manually doing it yourself ! I mean the little ramp we use isn’t ideal but it still give the Illusion of automation - it would be wonderful to be able to point a little remote control at our rolling stock and watch them uncouple lol but I think that far into the future…. Anyway stay safe and keep the videos coming, in these dark times there one of the few things we look forward to 💖👍

[@Mark_W_L]

DCC controlled actuators are available for Kadee couplers. Precimodels and Subarishi Models are two firms that make them. There are a few KZbin videos showing the couplers working. Not cheap but they would be OK if just fitted to a few locos. Putting them on rolling stock would be ridiculously expensive. I just use a skewer.

[@Andries1963]

@@Mark_W_L wow just checked them out , way way to expensive, I would want to fit them to all my stock lol - maybe if I win the lottery - it’s sad no one could come up with a cheep version for all of us who aren’t Rock Gods and Drug Barrons lol - thanks for you tip though, the video was interesting 👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think it’s really a case of fitting these magnetic couplings to Trains which really need that option. Shunting wise, I always use KD couplings on the locos.

[@Andries1963]

@@ChadwickModelRailway I think your right Charlie, until someone comes up with a reasonably priced working remote controlled couplings that looks like the real thing the KD Couplings are really the only answer, thank you 👍

[@davidstead4048]

Hi Charlie, I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I have a analogue layout. What I would like to know is, can I wire a Hornby 8014 point motor and a Peco PL10 point motor in tandem so that both points change together using 1 switch. Regards David

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I really don’t know but I’d be surprised if it didn’t work David.

[@TATICMOOR]

The coupling issue is a mine field to anyone that has an ample and diverse collection of locos, wagons, and coaches etc. This video should enlighten many just starting out about the pro's and con's of the several types available on the market, especially if they watch your other videos on the subject.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Wise words John, yes it is a minefield! Regards Charlie

[@TATICMOOR]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Boom!

[@NarrowGauge1]

Excellent video thanks Charlie. I had decided to go full Kadee and have started to retrofit all locos and wagons and passenger cars with them, with the idea that I would install neodymium magnets railside for hands free uncoupling. My goal is to run the layout operationally with a car card system which obviouosly involves a lot of switching, and uncoupling. I like the idea of the Hunt offerings but how do you think they would go on an operational railway where there is a lot of uncoupling? Have you found a good way for this? How hard is it to uncouple the cars realistically? Thanks, Rick

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Rick, No, my magnetic couplings are used in fixed rakes. If uncoupling is required then I use Kadee’s. Regards Charlie

[@birgit1646]

Well, I never have seen those original couplings, but my first thought was: "Why isn't he just shortening the original ones?" Do they need to reach down that far until they meet the rails? I would have tried, if possible, with a file or a clipper to cut a little bit off. Maybe some will say that is an absolute no-go. Then maybe you let me know why.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

The droopy couplings derail when shunted. They rise up over each other.

[@kiwitrainguy]

That's what I was thinking. Clipping them short would be better as filing would tend to move the whole coupling around and possibly break it. The tab hanging down only has to be as long as the hook to allow it to clear the other coupling bar.

[@dgattenb]

awsome vid as always. You should try do the coupling on N gauge .. its sooo much more fun ! .. Most of mine are the default ones, however, i have diversed into Kato and Tomix stock from Japan. They are far cheaper than paying 300 pounds for a uk locos etc and run sooo well!!. The link they use is not so harsh as the default Rapido couplings . Dapol do magnetic ones, like yours , but at N , unless you are a crazy rivet bod, it won't make much difference , to me anyway .. and to be honest , I have bullet trains and class 22s .etc . so i am not ones of these people ..

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A great comment David. Many thanks, Charlie

[@pierre-de-standing]

A very informative video Charlie, thank you. So completely unrelated, every time I see you with your Dremel, I get scared. Just to let you know, in Lidl there is a Parkside equivalent, that is battery powered and with a variable speed control at 19.99 I think. Two other things, I am surprised you are running with code 100, I'd always imagined you would have opted for code 75, but so what if you are. Your railway, your choice. And finally, I am not getting Patreon notifications, I don't know if that is the case for your other subscribers, but I'm also not getting notifications from some others too, so maybe it is a problem with my account.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Jane, I think that the problem is at your end. You should definitely receive my notification on the Thursday, prior to the Friday release. Regards Charlie

[@davidberlanny3308]

Aahaa, the cunning plan is revealed!! A very informative video as always very enjoyable. I caught it whilst packing up some Hornby Dublo and some O gauge rails for my funicular railway. I would sign off wishing you good luck from Spain but today I wish you good luck from England as I am here to collect the aforementioned Hornby stuff .... Small matter of a wedding tomorrow .... Not mine though!!!!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks David, and go easy on the booze tomorrow!

[@jouebien]

What are the options for shunting? or is it like L gauge magnet couplers where you have to use the had of god to split cars?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, shunting is not achievable with these couplings. Thanks Charlie

[@basilschwegmann7395]

What happens when the magnet lose there magnetism? Just thinking about motor magnets that require remagnetising at times.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

It hasn’t happened yet Basil, but I shall certainly let folks know if it does. Regards Charlie

[@Chris-BognorRegis]

Hi Charlie - Likewise I thought it was a brilliant show at the Ally Pally, lot quieter than the Sunday show prior to Covid. It was nice to say hello to you and shake your hand. You cracked me up when you said he should produce a pack with different lengths, I immediately thought, he has cos I have a packet in front of me that I have had for months LOL. Anyway I have yet to take them out of the packet and found it very interesting watching this video. More to putting magnetic couplings on wagons than you think. I wonder how many ballast wagons you eventually want in one rake? Oooh the next video sounds interesting, thanks Charlie. Regards Chris

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Chris, it was great to meet up at the show. Good luck with your couplings, regards Charlie

[@keithdonnellan5564]

Thanks as usual Charlie great stuff.

[@graham33freeland59]

Hi Charlie..another great video..you have a great knack of making railway problems seem like good fun.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@martinclitheroe]

Just seen this, literally the day after I’ve bought a rake of 13 Heljan Dogfish second hand 😂 Guess I’ll be changing the couplers

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Do let me know how you get on with the brass wheels. Regards Charlie

[@RobA500]

I have thought about going down the Kadee route, I have got sample kit but now having seen the prices they are going for I’m having second thoughts as it would be around £300 just for my locomotives before getting to the rolling stock. Hunt couplings might be a slightly cheaper option.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

These are difficult choices Rob.

[@mick9885]

Hi Charlie, Have you found a way of fitting them to the Freightliner wagons,

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I haven’t looked Mick, but I don’t imagine it will be easy. Regards Charlie