Husqvarna 455 rancher rebuild bolt for bolt part 2

If you are looking for aftermarket chainsaw parts, please support my channel by buying from:
www.hlsproparts...
Disclaimer: ladies and gents, this is a CHAINSAW, working with, building and fiddling with these can KILL YOU, I am not and will not be responsible for improper technique or accidents even remotely relating to this video, please view for entertainment purposes only.
In this video, I am rebuildling the 455 rancher. It likely was straight gassed. Towards the end of the video I have some discussion of whether or not this is worth it. Please feel free to leave a comment in the comments section below.

[@trudyburns86]

Matt, i learned chain saw repair watching you, i have a part time chain saw repair job at a salary of 500 per week thanks to you, Lewis

[@matthewolson8875]

Wow!!! Thats great! Glad I could be of help and inspiration.

[@colomacountry]

You've given hope to humanity, finally a no bullshit video direct to the point, no music no fluff, no shitty edits. Thank you and great job!

[@matthewolson8875]

Thanks! Sorry the vid is boring but I tried to stay on point.

[@mepheston1]

I just finished replacing the plastic crank case on my 455 with the help of this video. I wouldn't have even thought about the flywheel spacing. This video and part 1 were both incredibly helpful. The plastic, where the chain catch is located, snapped off after a tree fell where it wasn't supposed to. Without this walk through I would have messed up something for sure. Thank you for taking the time to record this and thanks to your sponsor.

[@matthewolson8875]

Michael .Clark glad it helped! and you are welcome!

[@kbdelong7649]

Great Video, just heard back from a repair shop that my 455 is leaking at the crank seals. After watching your video I understand how to check this out myself and confirm if they properly checked it out. I will be trying this after I pick it up from the shop. The cost to repair was quite high and I decided to not do so until I saw you video. I am good with mechanical repairs so I am going to try the repair myself. Your detailed bolt by bolt video is tremendously helpful, thank you for the video and all you do for us out here in the YT world.

[@matthewolson8875]

Welcome!

[@rottanwelding]

Never rebuilt a chain saw before, watched this VID, and went threw my 455 top to bottom,, RUNS LIKE NEW,,,,,,,, THANKS MATT...

[@matthewolson8875]

Welcome!!!

[@patriottoo2revelle331]

Just fixed a dead 455, thanks to your excellent tear down, and rebuild videos. Friend's saw had a stuck piston ring that I was able to free up, and put back together. Laborious job, but learned a lot about this saw.

[@matthewolson8875]

once you've done it... it gets easier. my job is to give ya some ambition in the first place to go for it.... glad I was able to do that! :) congrats!

[@mcporter03]

I have built and run 3 455’s , upgrading 1 to 60cc. I have added handle scrench holders on all 3, painted a felling line around all 3. I have seen double dogs on eBay and Amazon, but was too late as they were cut from larger saws. 2 have 24 inch bars, as I like standing for limbing and it gives my felling saw time to cool. It’s also nice to have a backup if I ever pinch my bar. I also put them on my quad to cut trails that have fells. It’s a great model, not really pro, but gives great power and rpm’s

[@ronownbey1033]

Mathew. I was very impressed with your presentation of the rebuild . Your speed and descriptions was excellent. I’ve watch a lot of learning demonstrations. YOURS WAS THE BEST. THANK YOU 👍👍👍👍👍

[@matthewolson8875]

Welcome!!! Happy to help!

[@micmichaeladflak6373]

IRONY: I ordered fuel lines carb rebuild filters and bulb from h&l 20 minutes ago. started looking for a rebuild video to educate myself and clicked on your video . Just had to share with you... And thank you for investing your time and expertise to share with the rest of us who need guidance when it comes to maintaining our own equipment. God bless

[@matthewolson8875]

welcome!

[@budgillett9535]

You are such a clear and understandable teacher. Watching your videos bring some joy and excitement to this old geezer’s life. Thank you very much! Bud from Nebraska the land of limited trees.

[@matthewolson8875]

Bud Gillett thanks Bud....glad u enjoy the content!

[@JasonM69]

I say it is worth rebuilding. I bought a used one for 100. For some reason it ate the piston (I always measure my fuel well?) Bought a new piston and jug for 70. Simple to do as well. New saw is 500 CAD plus 13%tax. I watched these rebuild videos as mine would bark but not run... realized i messed up the pulse line.

[@TinCupChalice40]

The most complete tutorial I’ve ever seen. Thank you so much.

[@matthewolson8875]

No problem....welcome

[@ButcherNumber1]

Great tutorial matt, worth every penny to rebuild these saws, if you can do all the work yourself, and buy the aftermarket parts or oem parts reasonably. Rebuilt alotta Stihl, McCulloch& Homelite chainsaws this way that other folks would have rather just throwin away! Almost pitiful, the throw away society we live in today. Keep up the great work matt. Really enjoy what you do here for the people!

[@matthewolson8875]

thanks for the comment Chad!!! appreciate it!

[@djmatthewsol]

Thank you very much for producing this video. My 460 Rancher had a tree come down on the front section of it. I would not have been able to repair it so quickly without your video!

[@jasonhill3902]

Sir, Let me start off by saying.. Great job with your videos! As a Ebay junky and saw nut myself I agree 100% on the point you made about parts saws on Ebay. I have found that if you look around for the correct saws (saws that have good AM and OE parts support), avoid over paying and correctly use the aftermarket industry in your saw builds it can help increase your profit margin. I will say that I personally would buy a $300.00 saw on Craigslist that had been gone through, before I spent $300 on some old used saw that had nothing done to it other than putting gas and oil into it! Congrats on picking up a sponsor like HLsupply, they are a good company to deal with! I hope you are able to find a cost effective way of maintaining your quality builds.

[@matthewolson8875]

+jason hill So far HL supply has been great. The only issue with that is that I've removed all of my ADSENSE ads from my chainsaw vids, in favor of my hlsupply affiliate link, but $$ wise I'm down by ....uh... a lot. Please use my affiliate link if you are going to buy from HL supply, it helps me out a lot. I gotta stop buying saws. I gotta stop buying saws. I gotta stop buying saws. hehe. The real trick is to not pay too much for a saw. Everyone thinks their saw is worth gold....its not. If someone is selling a saw, first thing I ask is when it last had a rebuild...not a "tune up" Then the best thing to do is consider how much the saw would sell for in nice running shape. So, around here, a 372xp in nice shape goes for about $500-600 on craigslist. So if you are going to rebuild one, consider the time, and the $$ that it'd take to get it running. THEN you can figure how much its worth to purchase. Thanks for the comments. Please don't binge watch me ... too boring :) Hopefully I've got THE reference on youtube for these saws I'm working on though. Take care.

[@budgillett9535]

Matthew Olson q

[@robertelson2564]

A friend just left one of these for repair ! great video Matthew thanks very much.

[@matthewolson8875]

Happy to help!

[@joew9392]

I'm rebuilding a 460 right now but decided to not use any sealer on the crankcase, I noticed it came from the factory without any. I did lube it up pretty good though.

[@Ozzyjunky]

Your videos are incredibly helpful! Thank you for taking the time to do this.

[@matthewolson8875]

no problem! remember, best way to support my channel is to check out the HL supply link in the description.... glad you like the vids :)

[@ojustinbillman4934]

Thanks Matthew Thoroughly enjoyed your breakdown and rebuild videos and I think I may have learnt a thing or two

[@matthewolson8875]

Great! Happy to help!

[@PBruske234]

Thank you for making this 2 part video!

[@matthewboerschinger4528]

I had two 455 ranchers trap out on me. It cost as much as the saw to have it rebuilt. Still I like the performance of the saw so rebuilding this saw may be doable thanks to your video. Thanks Info feel the saw should have lasted longer than it did.

[@matthewolson8875]

Gotta figure out what the point of failure was.... and go from there

[@silvergrizzly316]

Hey Matthew, new subscriber, I really enjoy watching your videos my friend. I have this same 455 rancher, I guess from 2009. It kept stalling out when it got warmed up, so I took it apart down to and including half of the carb. And left it on my work bench for about 6 months, due to my health, but watched your video and now know had a dry rotted fuel line, primer and impulse line. Thank you very much!!! Keep up the great videos my friend!!!

[@matthewolson8875]

Orange Rocket happy to help! !!!

[@dimitrijejovic2000]

my 460 rancher when it warms up it starts very hard, the compression is not very good, the mechanic says the carburetor is the problem and he is going to change the carburetor, how did you fix yours?

[@martinnewton6891]

I would love to see a video like this on case split, bearing and seal removal and replacement. I know you have videos with that content in but nothing that is start to finish complete. Doing it on a Stihl o28 or similar would be interesting.

[@jameswolfe9451]

Thanks for this info! made the rebuild quick and easy,started right up.

[@matthewolson8875]

Welcome! !

[@codycushman2738]

Thanks, man. Got her reassembled, will see if she fires

[@jureloar]

Felicitaciones. Muchas gracias. Excelente profesor-

[@Ecksterphono]

If one decides to change the crank side seals. Remember soak them in 2 stroke oil or equivalent overnight. Don't just oil the lips and put them on, otherwise they may spin on startup or cause premature failure. Once soaked just whipe them off a bit and leave the oil on the lip where the crank spindles go through.

[@martinnewton6891]

GREAT VIDEO, clear concise and in my opinion SO much better than the live streamed stuff that you do. This video does what it says in the tittle, I find all the streamed stuff is full of unclear content bad filming and distractions of unnecessary chit chat. Just my thoughts.

[@matthewolson8875]

These old bolt for bolt vids were a labor of love. I cant possibly tell u the time I invested in them for near zero return. Im not doing them anymore because its just not nearly as fun as the lives. The live streams are for hanging out with my subs and answering questions in real time....not as much for "how to" purposes. The odds of me doing more bolt for bolt vids in the old format is near zero. Its just too time consuming...sorry. please join for live though!

[@martinnewton6891]

@@matthewolson8875 I fully understand, and I truly appreciate the work involved. I have hesitated over 12 months in making this comment as I did not want to appear insensitive or rude, I have typed out comments twice and deleted them. The truth is that the bolt for bolt were clearly well thought out and delivered information that I could digest, the streams drive me nuts as a lot of the content is disjointed. You are a talented guy and I have learned loads from your channel its just that I find the current format not for me. That probably says more about me than you. Keep up the good work.

[@matthewolson8875]

@@martinnewton6891 the streams are for me ...for fun. Otherwise I'd just stop. I have fun with the streams and get to answer questions live. Editing drives me crazy right now and I just don't have time for it... which I knew would happen eventually. No worries....hope u join for a stream sometime!

[@philliphall5198]

It would drive me crazy to leave the plug loose 😢 I rebuilt them for my own use because there is no labor money in it, it’s just fun to fix them 😊

[@leadsmith5873]

I absolutely love the detail and effort to produce such a well made educational masterpiece. I do have one question... there is a clear rubber hose that goes from the primer bubble, under the intake and into a black rubber grommet that leads into the tank. How deep does the hose go into the tank? Is it supposed to submerge alongside the filter? Thanks!

[@matthewolson8875]

I dont remember... I think it just needs to pressurize the tank enough to pull fuel to the carb.

[@leadsmith5873]

@@matthewolson8875 Thanks. I'll try it both ways tomorrow. I got this saw from a buddy and have been trying to clean it up and replace some of the degrading rubbers.

[@matthewolson8875]

@@leadsmith5873 tear it all down... get it clean. Enjoy the build

[@dons1493]

Thank you for posting this...VERY BIG HELP

[@chrisoxley7148]

My feelings too . Thank you .

[@rodkindel2998]

Sorry mathew. Very frustrating when the authorized repair center does not have the parts or the size. Did the ask army at Husqvarna, they said the screw is a 10-24 x 3/8. Bought one and it is the wrong size. Now have one messed up hole so may have to buy the entire clutch cover. Would like to document the actual size of the screw.

[@rtdoolinboys4758]

First off, Great video thanks! You used locktite 518 for the crank seals. What thread lock did you use for the cylinder head bolts? And is it the same thread lock used on the flywheel?

[@matthewolson8875]

Head bolts blue or red loctite is fine. Tx

[@williamcharles9480]

Matthew, I love the videos and appreciate what you've done to educate the masses, but may I add that WD40 is a terrible lubricant. Husqvarna says to use the Husqvarna synthetic 2 cycle oil as an assembly lubricant, but even a generic brand of 2 cycle oil will serve the purpose; the specific additives in 2 cycle oil sets it apart from automotive oil, so I thought that I'd pass that on. To equal the convenience that you get with the WD40's delivery, put the oil in one of those small metal squirt cans like you can find at Harbor Freight for about $3 or $4 and this should equal the ease of application. Please don't feel as if I'm a know-it-all because I was also under the impression that WD40 was a lubricant until I ran across some reliable information. Also, I don't think that it's necessary to apply any dressing to the crankshaft housing gasket of that specific design; if you decide that you need some kind of lubricant to get the gasket to seat properly, again the 2 cycle oil would be the way to go. The crankshaft seals and those crank bearings would be better lubed with the 2 cycle stuff, too. Again, thanks for making a really good and informative 2 part series; Husqvarna would be impressed or let's say they should be because their owner's manual can get vague at times.

[@matthewolson8875]

I know I get never ending crap about the wd40 lol. Thanks for the comments!

[@dt3510]

I took mine in to get carb fixed. Charged me $40 and they didn’t fix it. Said it wasn’t worth it. New carb amazon $12. Was your business card 0.20 thou ? Thanks for video learned a lot

[@matthewolson8875]

business cards around .010" ... welcome :)

[@petervankampen2332]

Thanks Dean for a very instructional video. It has been very helpful. I have a 460 Rancher which is the same just one size bigger. I have a query for I did not see you showing or mentioning it in the video. On the flywheel side of the saw just below the rubber carburettor jacket for adjusting the carburettor there is a little white pipe nipple with a grove for a pipe leading to a hole that go's to the carburettor compartment by the looks. could you beadle to tell me what it is or where it go's. plus the plastic plate that holds the spark plug and coil weirs also go's over the top and covers it. ? could it be the fuel tank breather pipe. I am not sure if your saw had a pipe or not. Regards Peter.

[@matthewolson8875]

Best to ask this type of question on a forum with pictures... try opeforum.com :)

[@oldrider816]

Thanks for your time and effort making this video; very educational.How close is the 455 to the 450 X-Torq to do the same rebuild?

[@matthewolson8875]

I don't really know how close they are. I haven't taken apart a 450 and dont' really intend to. I personally don't really see the point to that saw. The 455 is a design that has been around forever and isn't much different in prices from the 450. 455 is not my favorite saw, but its super easy to gets parts for, super common saw. why change to a 450? save 30 -50 bux upfront? anyway, I'd like to have time to do teardowns on all these and do vids, but I just don't and the 450 is kinda low down on the list for now. sorry I can't be more helpful

[@oldrider816]

It's what I've had for 5-10 years, and can't afford to replace it. But thank you for the prompt answer Matt!

[@matthewolson8875]

Mel Taylor best of luck....don't be afraid to tear into it ....lots of parts available and lots of forums for help if you get stuck

[@allenrolland2598]

Matthew, I appreciate your videos. I have 3 Husky 455's and maintenance is always needed on one or another. One quibble: WD40 is actually a cleaner, not a lubricant. You might be advised to pick a different spray lube, say from CRC.

[@matthewolson8875]

I use the wd40 because its convenient and popular...and it gets me over a hump until the 2 cycle oil in the gas lubes the motor and bearings... but I do agree with you :) and thanks for the comment!

[@timgile8144]

WD40 is solvent not lube. it will dry out

[@matthewolson8875]

again, the wd40 is just to get everything moving until the oil in the gas takes over... I've taken apart plenty of my saws, after running short times, and long.... and it isn't dry inside :)

[@lexiusnez6513]

I'm looking to replace my IMPULSE LINE because my saw is leaking fuel. I have changed all lines for fuel and the 2 grommets in the fuel tank. Would have been nice to see the attachment of the impulse line.

[@MrRockenbob]

Thanks for the video definitely educational well worth watching

[@matthewolson8875]

you are very welcome!

[@foldingchaise8387]

GREAT VIDEO, Thanks

[@twagner6155]

Though clicker torque wrenches are about all you can find, studies have been done that show they are inaccurate. Also leading to inaccuracy is no lube on the threads which you did with the Locktite. As long as it runs.

[@matthewolson8875]

You mean to say....as long as it holds :) and yes...so far loctite on the flywheel key and my torque wrench have yielded reliable results and removable results. :)

[@3rwparks3]

I have a rancher 55 with low hours. It hasn't been used in several years, but it was always kept inside out of the elements. And the gas was drained. The pull start works easily with the spark plug removed, but it is very very hard to pull with the plug installed. Where should I start looking??? I enjoyed both part one and two.

[@jeremybarker8331]

I tore down a a craftman saw that did that and there was rust inside it

[@Maxb49]

Great video! How many hours should a rebuild chainsaw last?

[@matthewolson8875]

I don't know. How many hours does a new one last?

[@matthewolson8875]

It's a rhetorical question because the word "last" is dependent on the point of failure.

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

WHAT DID I DO WRONG??? I replaced the bottom chain oiler pickup hose and put it all back together per your video. I tested it against a piece of cardboard to be sure that the chain was getting enough oil and wasn't sure enough oil was coming out so I decided to take off the chain cover, chain, and bar to visually watch to see how much chain oil was coming out of the top chain oiler hose. Good news ... I had the chain oiler set to max oil because I run a 20" chain and lots of oil was coming out of the top chain oiler hose. I had the throttle fully depressed and then something really interesting happened: THE CLUTCH AND THE CHAIN SPROCKET DEPARTED THE CHAINSAW AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED!!! They were spinning rapidly and fortunately, they hit a tree, took a sharp left turn, hit something else and stopped. Fortunately, the needle bearing dropped near my feet and the clutch and chain sprocket weren't damaged. I had the piston stop in the spark plug hole when I tightened the clutch so I am dumbfounded as to why the clutch came off. Is it unsafe to run the saw without the chain and chain cover installed? Any ideas???

[@matthewolson8875]

Yup....unsafe to run the saw without the clutch cover.....especially after just putting the clutch on

[@matthewolson8875]

The clutch will self tighten over time....but it needs to be given time or risk flying off at an exceptional rate of speed

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

Matthew, That might be worth mentioning from time to time for us 73-year-old dummies with our first chainsaw. I'm not blaming you but it does seem that it would be worth mentioning from time to time when you install the clutch. Thanks for your quick response! Cal

[@matthewolson8875]

@@CALVINLNIKONT I've had the issue plenty of times. Often you need to run the saw without the cover to check the oiling but you do risk the clutch flying off. I'm pretty sure it's in one of my 262xp vids but it's a good point to mention in vids going forward

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

Matthew, I ran it for a minute or two with no problem but then I ran it with the throttle all the way open for about 20 seconds and then it came off. Well ... now I know but it was a real thrill.

[@mikeschleh7921]

I was working on dis assembly of my 455 rancher and I had a weird shaped metal looking cog fall from somewhere. Any help would be appreciated

[@ابوكرمللسيراميك]

Thanks brother

[@Jonasinc1]

This is a pretty good video. How does the manifold work? It looks like pure air moves through the top part and the charge moves through the bottom part. What is the purpose of the top part?

[@matthewolson8875]

It's strato.. I don't fully understand it myself. glad u like the vid though

[@johnbladykas4454]

How did you clean it with. Looks spotless

[@matthewolson8875]

John Bladykas degreaser....simple green....mean grean....ultrasonic. ..soap and water etc :)

[@This0is0pointless]

Wish someone made a tuned pipe for one of these

[@jeremybarker8331]

It was a good video but I have a question. How many times did you pull the cord to do the compression test?

[@matthewolson8875]

Until the needle stops going up... :)

[@stevegmaglione2402]

Good vids, Matt. However.....nothing said 'bout pulse line. Mine will run w/ether but dies . New carb etc. Can you do a vid about the pulse line? No gas...no run. Thx. Keep up the good work.

[@matthewolson8875]

Steve G Maglione iirc the pulse line is integral with the intake boot complex....but I forget lol.....if I remember I'll look at it later. U r right though....the impulse drives the fuel pump

[@theodorpresacar5524]

Thanks a lot for your video!

[@matthewolson8875]

Theodor Presacar welcome! !

[@kenskip1]

Matt, Great video. I am thinking about purchasing a 55-60 cc saw.Are you in the market for a closed port 55 cylinder that is in not perfect condition but usable? Saw had 165 lbs after I replaced the ring.Then suddenly saw stopped. Checked compression again and was at 120 psi.Before you ask I did everything the way it should be done. I am unable to spend $175 for a new piston even if they are available. I like your attitude during the video. Any Stihls in your future? Thanks again, Ken

[@matthewolson8875]

Lotta questions here...ok...uh...no thanks to the 55...rather not mess with those. I'm working on the stihl ms200t right now....but doubt I'll do many others. ..I prefer husky. I have a video coming soon on how to pressure test saws...I think you need to see it to work on your 55. don't forget to check out Hlsupply. ..they might have parts u need for a lot less. any other questions just ask!

[@sideshowbilly3755]

Great video! Thanks. Aren't we supposed to put some oil in the crankcase?

[@matthewolson8875]

Bill Walters you can lube the bearings with 2 cycle oil during assembly. ...which helps initially but remember. ..the mixed gas will spread oil inside the crankcase and keep everything lubed

[@sideshowbilly3755]

Understood. However, why go through all the trouble of using gasket sealant on the crankcase/cylinder then? Mine had no such tube-sealant from the factory... just the small rubber gaskets . It's not like a typical oil pan full of oil will leak out. In fact, Mine doesnt leak anything without the sealant (famous last words, huh?). So I dont see a reason to apply gasket sealant when it comes from the factory without it. If the cylinder is torqued down correctly, and the rubber gaskets are in place, no junk should enter the crankcase either. I know the older Husky models had actual crankshaft bearings that required some kind of tube-sealant or they would slip and slide around. But the 455 and the 460 are not floating bearings. Anyhow... just wondering. Thanks again for this video. Very informative. DISCLAIMER: Mine is a 460 Rancher, so maybe there's a slight difference in design that I havent been able to identify from your video of the 455.

[@matthewolson8875]

No difference in design. Those rubber gaskets are to prevent air leaks ...not oil leaks. I use sealer because I'm superstitious lol

[@winstonclarke9221]

Nice Video Olson. and very Knowledgeable.

[@matthewolson8875]

Winston Clarke thanks!!! Hope it was helpful

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

Since Husqvarna readily admits that the seal on the oiler line is a design flaw and is the cause for the bar chain oil to leak, I wish you would have replaced that too but I believe that you showed that on another video.

[@matthewolson8875]

remember, I did this video twice due to most of the hours of video that I shot in the first place being OUT OF FOCUS... ugh. so I don't remember what part of the fuel line ends up defective. likely the one on the bottom of the crankcase. ... easy to replace once you have the whole thing apart.

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

Right! You actually flipped the case over and showed where the bulbous part of the oil line was supposed to seal the hole through the case but you didn't actually replace the line. My 455 Rancher leaks bar oil and Husqvarna sent me the new oil line and I haven't replaced the old line yet. I believe that you also used some kind of gasket sealer to make sure it wouldn't leak.

[@matthewolson8875]

yeah, i remember on one of them I used RTV black, though now I would definitely use 1184 instead.

[@arnoldromppai5395]

in the 1st part of this video you went to clean the case and said it was nothing wrong with it, but in this video you say this new chassy /case,, also in video one you said it needs a new jug but i see you used the old one why?you in Canada or usa

[@carlcap14911]

I don't think it's worth to rebuild this chain saw with complete tear down and reassemble but, look at it this way, you now have a brand new chain saw. So, if you can purchase this on after market sales, you could save yourself all this work to tear down and rebuild it yourself.

[@matthewolson8875]

Carl, you bring up a fine point, which I think I addressed at the end of the vid. If you are going to rebuild this saw, you have to get it cheap. I've seen 455 ranchers in fine shape on craigslist at $250. They just aren't worth much more than $300 all said and done .... if you buy new obviously you get a warranty but then they are $450 or so. Its a fine point though.

[@colbyc.6698]

You own hl supply I just ordered a top end kit for the old 51&55 husky shipped Monday headed to bama it was the April fool's sale

[@matthewolson8875]

I don't own hlsupply. ...just have an affiliate link ... best of luck with your build

[@cuzmike]

I have a 455 that runs ok until I turn the saw sideways. Then it dies. Any suggestions? Great set of videos by the way.

[@matthewolson8875]

Either something is funky in the carb....something weird with the fuel line ....or you have an air leak.

[@cuzmike]

@@matthewolson8875 Thank you. Much appreciated.

[@TheodeScottBand]

Mathew can you tell me where the Gas Vent is on a Husqvarna 455 Rancher

[@MrGordgord]

Hi Matt How much torque on the handle bar screws/bolts?? Very informative and much appreciated!

[@matthewolson8875]

I don't have a spec on those. ..sorry. I just do hand tight ....sorry I can't be more specific

[@MrGordgord]

Matthew Olson Thanks Matt, that’s what I do too..

[@DonovanAP]

Watched the videos hoping to see the other side taken apart due to I think I'm missing a removable plate. Unfortunately the other side was never shown when you took it apart. Good video but can I suggest if doing a bolt for bold video, you show every piece taken off and replaced.

[@matthewolson8875]

What side are you missing?

[@DonovanAP]

@@matthewolson8875 Sorry, the clutch side. Every saw Ive owned(crap ones like poulon ) there was a removable thin metal plate about 3in by 2 in. I got a 455 from a friend. It didnt work but I fixed it. Was looking to see if there was one of those on here. Or is that plate built in ?

[@matthewolson8875]

@@DonovanAP loose. Bolt on similar to my 350s.... look up my 350 videos and it'll be similar iirc

[@DonovanAP]

@@matthewolson8875 thanks

[@69kaveman]

What about the other fuel line that goes to the top of the primer bulb? Mine broke where it goes through the grommet/sleeve. How do you replace that one? I watched your Husqvarna fuel line videos and wonder which do you recommend to replace that primer bulb tubing. Thanks, Kevin

[@matthewolson8875]

69kaveman hi Kevin thanks for the comment because that is a unique line I would probably recommend replacing it with a original part

[@69kaveman]

Thank You!

[@ericwendle]

Thanks man!

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

Husqvarna tech told me that the bar oil pick-up hose going from the tank to the pump has had leaking issues and they sent me a newly designed one for free because my chainsaw was leaking bar oil just sitting on the shelf. It's a cheap part (less than $2) and I would have replaced it as part of the rebuild.

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

The new bar oil hose # is: 587417201

[@matthewolson8875]

new rubber as part of a rebuild is always a good idea :)

[@gannfarmraised]

I'm one of the idiots who straight-gassed my saw (on accident). I'm not sure I can do all that you've done in this video. My saw no longer starts.

[@matthewolson8875]

Love straight gassed saws... I know exactly what's wrong with them. But yes...its a lot of work. For most folks easier to sell it for parts and buy new. Lotta folks will buy your saws for parts

[@frankiejones4816]

I'm one of those stupid ones, I saw real dark burn piston, and the ring was stuck in the piston. So, I decided to rebuild it. Lord and behold once I took the cylinder of all the dark burn in the cylinder, and the piston fell off, and the ring came loose from the piston. All that was a thick deposit of carbon. How does that happen? Who knows I certainly don't know if someone knows I'm all ears and eyes in reading why it happens.

[@raysecoy9187]

Just put one back together and it will only run on choke, seems to be leaking air around the intake manifold, can’t seem to figure it out.

[@matthewolson8875]

Either you have a massive air leak ...or the carb is not flowing fuel. New carb?

[@billbanek5939]

Have a 455 and started leaking gas.Took off the air filter and notice the return line off the bulb going back to the tank leaking.On the gas line going back to tank does it fit thru a black grommet into the tank? Is this how it seal the gas line from leaking?

[@matthewolson8875]

bill banek I don't remember if there is a grommet or not. call Bob at Ashoken turf and timber in ny state....he will get you the part you need. should be an easy fix

[@Senna-xi1gr]

Brilliant

[@stevewhitsett7744]

While I really appreciate this video, since It provides very valuable information, I have to agree that buying and rebuilding is probably not worth it... I bought a brand new 455 Rancher for $385.00 on Amazon shipped Prime this past January.

[@matthewolson8875]

yup. ...I lost money for sure on this. on the other hand...the experience you gain from doing these projects yourself is invaluable. ...thanks for the comment

[@happydays454]

I got a 391 but can't find a cheap piston and Cylinder can I just put a ring it has no compression

[@matthewolson8875]

Did you diagnose why it has no compression? Ie....why the piston cooked?

[@caurod]

merci beaucoup. great vidéo i have New rancher

[@matthewolson8875]

Edmond Dantes DE rein sir :)

[@Normanb15]

Making money is always about losing some initially in the learning phase. Great video! Did you sell the saw?

[@matthewolson8875]

Normanb15 I assume so...I forget at this point lol....

[@Normanb15]

The best payment is pulling that cord and it runs..

[@matthewolson8875]

yep, that never gets old :)

[@rangerdanger766]

great videos. do u not torque the clutch? Having issues with my 460 not starting when it runs out of fuel, changed all hoses and primer still no go. can the coil break down after it gets hot? ideas? thanks

[@matthewolson8875]

Clutch gets tighter as saw runs.... self tightening. Whats compression on the 460? When was the last time u changed the bearings and seals?

[@rangerdanger766]

@@matthewolson8875 never done any kind of maintenance to the saw. sounds like I need another saw to get my firewood done and get back to this one later. got the truck tore apart now. r new 455 460 saws as good as the older ones?

[@matthewolson8875]

@@rangerdanger766 i would stick with pro models... 550xp will get your firewood done :) better power to weight But 455 rancher hasn't changed in many years far as I can tell

[@rangerdanger766]

@@matthewolson8875 Thanks for that suggestion. I did buy the 550xp. my 1st instinct was it was more than I needed, but I do cut 10 loads a year for personal use. So many saws to choose from. I will for sure try to get my 460 running again, really liked that saw. According to my son its alot older than I thought

[@Praybould]

Great video. I have a 455 Rancher and a 345 Husky. The 345 doesn't pull gas into the carb. Someone checked the gas line and it's ok. I was told that the seals might be leaking on the bottom of the cylinder block - which causes the suction to not work on pulling gas. It has 90 lbs of compression. What would you do?

[@matthewolson8875]

Paul Raybould I have lots of videos on the husky 340 345 350 family...check them out....that saw needs a rebuild and my vids guide you through it :)

[@Praybould]

Thank you and Merry Christmas!

[@matthewolson8875]

welcome! u as well!

[@Praybould]

Thanks Matthew. I posted on the 350 Part 1 when I saw someone in the comments with the same problem that I think I have. Looking for a shortcut to get to the bottom of the crankcase.

[@matthewolson8875]

Paul Raybould no shortcut....it's a full teardown. ...it isn't bad....watch all my vids....take notes....you'll do fine

[@kingxiety5463]

I just bought one slightly used it wont run wont hit while trying to start it at all its getting air fuel and good spark but no matter what I do it won't start even if I put fuel in manually you have any tips I'm finding nothing online that works

[@matthewolson8875]

Whats the compression ?

[@kingxiety5463]

@@matthewolson8875 I haven't checked it with a tester yet but it feels like it's just fine when pulling the cord

[@matthewolson8875]

@@kingxiety5463 pull the muffler snd check the piston. Make sure its not scored. Also. Questions like these are best answered on an online forum like opeforum.com

[@fernandog.aguirre2791]

excellent! Thank you very much!!!!

[@matthewolson8875]

you are very welcome!

[@keithwesley9880]

I just bought a 440 husky tht is dumping gas b the cylinder n will not start, what do u think it could b ?? Carburetor, or could it do tht if its bn run straight gas n it n fried the cylinder n piston ???? I ordered a new car 40 bucks, looks like ima have to buy cylinder kit as well..🤔😳🤣 but any help would b great bfore I just go to buying all new part.. the guy said it needs a carburetor, but I know he bought it like it was n he dont know what's going on with it..

[@matthewolson8875]

Pull the muffler off and look at the piston. See if it's damaged. What's the compression? Will it start with carb cleaner down the air horn?

[@keithwesley9880]

@@matthewolson8875 it only has 20lbs of compression, I haven't tried any starter fluid.. I ordered a new cylinder kit for it.. I'm pretty good at changing parts, but not so good at figuring out the problem. Lol so I just ordered the rebuild kit for it.. hopefully tht will fix it... But What do u think about them holzffarma g372 or g372xp saws from China?? I want to buy one of them dont know witch one to get, cause I'm definitely gonna get the big bore kit 52mm head for it later on, but not sure witch one I should get to build up.. I seen someone say tht the g372 is the same bottom end as the big bore 52mm saws ??? Thank u for ur help !

[@matthewolson8875]

HGC ...... youtube won't allow me to reply directly, so i'll reply here: "they just both lost compression and the cylinders were ruined" .... why? whats the diagnosis? before you label these crappy saws, you need a diagnosis...why this happened. you ALSO need to do a full rebuild ...seals etc. there are other vids I have put up... "last long" .... both of those terms are vague. so lets go one by one... "last" what do you mean by that term? a pinhole in a fuel line will put the saw on the shelf just as fast as straightgas. "long" ... define long? hours and hours of cutting? 10 years on a shelf? lots of different failure modes for saws, most of which don't deem the saw to be "crappy" ... I don't own a 455 rancher now, but wouldn't mind having one. they are super easy to fix, super easy to get parts for, and the parts are cheap. best of luck with yours!

[@smd_manny6036]

I have a question is it ok to wash the piston and bearings with water

[@matthewolson8875]

@@smd_manny6036 I was lots of parts with water and de greaser. For any bearings the get coated wth oil as soon as they come out of the water to avoid rust. The piston can be cleaned as well...but since it's aluminum you have to avoid certain degreassers. Overall I would not suggest re using the main bearings...just get new. They are cheap and you then don't have to wash them :)

[@lloyddelrie1491]

I have a 02 455 rancher chainsaw and I'm getting gas and fire but won't start any ideas

[@matthewolson8875]

this type of question really needs to be posted on the forum...either arboristsite or opeforum.com whats the compression?

[@gclaper1234]

Hi. Can you please tell me what you sprayed in the bearings. Was it WD 40. Thanks Glenn

[@matthewolson8875]

Glenn Clapperton likely yes wd40. just want to lube the bearings a bit before the 2 cycle oil in the gas has a chance to oil them

[@gclaper1234]

Matthew Olson Cool thanks

[@matthewolson8875]

Glenn Clapperton welcome!

[@jimtheriac7249]

Thank you

[@matthewolson8875]

Happy to help, let me know if you have any other questions

[@ianmartin7283]

I looked on hl, eBay, and anywhere else I can think of but I can't find a piston and cylinder for my poulan 330. any idea where to find one

[@matthewolson8875]

ian martin poulan 330? I know nothing about those... But you can post a wanted ad on opeforum.com and see what pops up

[@ianmartin7283]

+Matthew Olson poulan and poulan pro released a line of completely professional saws about 10 or 20 years ago. you have the poulan 3450 and 3750, and the poulan pro 305, 330, 335, 365, and 380. the saws ranged from 50cc to 60cc and we're very comparable to the Husqvarna 262xp. I just need to find a ring but if replacing the ring doesn't work I will need a piston and cylinder

[@alecrabedeau4788]

Can you replace the piston and cylinder without dismantling the clutch assembly?

[@matthewolson8875]

Probably. ...but it's not hard to get the clutch off and you'll have more manuverability with it off.

[@alecrabedeau4788]

@@matthewolson8875 Interesting. I am not a mechanic at all, but I want to replace the piston and cylinder on my 455 rancher. It seems to me the fewer things I tear apart, the greater likely hood Ill have of success. Thoughts?

[@matthewolson8875]

@@alecrabedeau4788 I disagree in general. What was the cause of the demise of the piston and head? A teardown is an opportunity to get the build right :)

[@alecrabedeau4788]

@@matthewolson8875 I believe the cause was running too lean. I have yet to tear into the saw to look for possible locations of air leaks. My usual small engine mechanic thinks that I put under-mixed fuel in it. Which is a possibility, Im capable of making mistakes. However Ive mixed many tanks of gas before and would be surprised to find that I did this one wrong. 99% of what I know about small engine repair, Ive learned in the last 24 hours due to this expensive mistake. And while Im not happy that I have to spend $170ish to fix it, I am trying to treat it as a learning opportunity.

[@matthewolson8875]

@@alecrabedeau4788 that's a good attitude ! same with me when I started. I'm no longer fearful to tear into things because its about learning. You've got my vids to guide you. ..worst comes to worst you go buy a new saw. If you straight gassed it ...it'll have a different appearance than lean running due to tune or air leak. Lean or air leak will typically just be damage on the exhaust side of the piston. Straight gas...or too little oil in the mix will be damage all around the piston. ...typically. best of luck!

[@harrycraviotto2375]

I have a 455 and the saw will not shut off blue wire grounds coil ?

[@matthewolson8875]

Blue and black wires connect at the switch to shunt the coil to ground. Somewhere in that loop something is wrong.

[@harrycraviotto2375]

Thanks again ,

[@ericneering6357]

What kind of WD-40 because WD-40 is not a lubricant it’s cleaner should be using oil

[@matthewolson8875]

Everyone gives me crap for the wd40....its just used to add lube for first startup. Once it starts the motor is lubed by the fuel. Not had a failure due to wd40 use yet.

[@TheDirtyBirchTrails]

This video is also out of focus. Always make sure your focus point is in the middle of the shot. Not on the floor beside your bench !

[@matthewolson8875]

Did the best I could...even bought a 2nd saw just to do the vid. Hope u got something from it anyway

[@almottram2189]

Nice job. I am applying this lesson to my 460 now. May I ask, what “sealant” are you using on the journal seals and the cylinder gaskets.

[@matthewolson8875]

Loctite 515 or 518 is anaerobic sealer and it's fine for metal and rubber but not plastic. Three bond 1184 is the other stuff I use

[@almottram2189]

The thanks for the prompt reply!

[@matthewolson8875]

@@almottram2189 no problem :) hope the vid helps you!

[@dimitrijejovic2000]

my 460 rancher when it warms up it starts very hard, the compression is not very good, the mechanic says the carburetor is the problem and he is going to change the carburetor,.?

[@matthewolson8875]

Did you pull the muffler and look at the piston?

[@dimitrijejovic2000]

@@matthewolson8875 which muffler??,, I didn't look at the piston, I took the saw to the mechanic and he will change the carburetor. Compression Is the 6-7 bars.

[@matthewolson8875]

@@dimitrijejovic2000 7 bar is around 100 psi. That's low for a 460 rancher. New is around 150 psi. I'd pull the muffler and look at the piston. There may be more wrong than just needing a carburetor

[@dimitrijejovic2000]

​@@matthewolson8875is the problem compression or carburetor or something else, are the seals on the crankshaft problem?

[@matthewolson8875]

@@dimitrijejovic2000 need to figure out what is wrong before you figure out the why. Did u pull the muffler

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

I'm in the market for a 1/4" impact driver and I noticed that you had a couple of DeWALT drivers but used (I'm guessing) a Bosch impact driver. What do you recommend?

[@matthewolson8875]

i like my bosch drivers, but I like my dewalt driver too. the bosch ones are so small and compact... the dewalt for the bigger stuff for sure

[@twagner6155]

I have a Husqvarna 440 II, 2017 and I replaced the coil, plug and carb. I took everything apart down to the cylinder and piston, cleaned it, blew everything out. The cylinder and piston look like new. I took off the tank vent to try it. It starts, runs for a few seconds then dies. Do you have any ideas?

[@matthewolson8875]

Did you check flywheel timing? What is carb set to? Oem parts or am ? If you put some fuel down the throat does it start? Is the plug wet?

[@twagner6155]

@@matthewolson8875 How do you check the flywheel timing? The parts are AM except for the Autolite plug and it does start but won't keep running. The plug isn't wet.

[@matthewolson8875]

@@twagner6155 so it's not getting fuel... it's getting a little but not much. Gotta figure out why it's not getting fuel. Am carbs are really hit or miss

[@twagner6155]

@@matthewolson8875 It is doing just like it did before the am parts were added. I agree that cheap parts don't always work.

[@twagner6155]

@@matthewolson8875 Thanks for your help. I will try OEM parts.

[@markleclair4182]

I just bought a 455 rancher 2nd hand and it cranks, will idle high, then I wind it up and when it comes back down it rough idles then shuts off. While investigating, I found the two Allen screws on top of carb are not there. Could this be the issue? I have tinkered with low screw on carb and hasn't helped.

[@matthewolson8875]

Missing intake screws can indicate an air leak. Air leaks can wreck pistons and heads....make sure all screws that are supposed to be there are there. While you are at it...pull the muffler and check the piston to make sure it's not scored

[@markleclair4182]

What does that look like? And if it is what should I do?

[@matthewolson8875]

@@markleclair4182 if the piston looks smooth ...u r fine and lucky. If it looks all scratched up....need to do a full teardown

[@markleclair4182]

@@matthewolson8875 I messaged the guy who sold it to me in hopes that he would let me bring back the saw. He is nice enough that he is buying it back from me. I never took muffler off, but thanks for your advice. Had he not been so nice I would've definitely needed your video to get it to run right. Thanks!

[@matthewolson8875]

@@markleclair4182 well...fortunate for you! But now ya gotta point the seller in my direction hehe

[@John_D2]

Is it ok to buy aftermarket carb for this model ? A husky carb is $90 from my local dealer.

[@matthewolson8875]

Flatzout I have only used oem....ebay cheaper I think for oem

[@John_D2]

Matthew Olson thanks i’ll look for them.

[@jimtheriac7249]

Have a 346 xp can I rebuild it with a 355

[@jimtheriac7249]

Sorry 455

[@matthewolson8875]

? I don't think husky makes a 355. The 455 is a completely different configuration than the 346xp. I have plenty of husky 346xp and 350 vids on my channel, bolt for bolt ...will show you how to rebuild. also, lots of discussion of what cylinders to use. the 455 rancher is a completely different saw

[@vadenfamily5447]

Proper torque requires a torque wrench, not just a t handle allen wrench

[@matthewolson8875]

That's true

[@joshflint4268]

No. A torque wrench is just one method of proving you have reached a particular torque level. One could also check torque by measuring bolt stretch. Or you just learn through experience how tight to tighten something. You can still tighten something to a correct torque with the T handle. You just cant demonstrate it to others as easily.

[@vadenfamily5447]

Can you measure bolt stretch with a t handle? You can torque to a spec and than do so many degrees but you need a spec for that too.

[@joshflint4268]

The point is/was it doesn't matter what you use to tighten it. It's been torqued to some value. It could very easily be incorrect torque whether too tight or too loose. Per the statement "Proper torque requires a torque wrench...." I was disagreeing with. You or I or anyone else can only prove that it was within the correct tolerance by having something that is repeatable. Emphasis on prove. I can tighten something to the correct value with a T handle. I can incorrectly tighten with a torque wrench. If you are using a Torque wrench and it's sliding the nut/bolt and you reset/rachet and all of a sudden it clicks even though you hadn't moved the nut again, are you at the correct torque? Or is the breakaway torque just higher than the wrench is set even though the sliding torque is below the target value? Wet torque vs dry torque? Does any of this even matter in the given situation? The purpose of torquing anything is to ensure that the tightness of the bolt is not overcome by the loads in use, without exceeding the strength of any of the related parts, whether its the strength of a bolt, an aluminum body that's been tapped, crushing the parts trapped by the bolt etc. If loads are shear loads, then clamping force may not even be wanted. The specified torque would then be finger tight and back it off a flat. It has been properly torqued without use of a wrench. Or I could torque it to the proper level by use of my calibrated elbow. But the question then is how do I know and or prove that I'm tight enough with it, but not too tight. And does it even matter? Sometimes yes, sometimes no. But it can still be torqued properly without the use of a torque wrench.

[@vadenfamily5447]

It can be tightened sufficiently to do the job yes but properly torqued( per specifications) maybe if your lucky and then only occasionally. My point was simply that maybe he should have said sufficiently tightened rather tham properly torqued seeing as how he wasnt using a calibrated torqing device. You can also overtighten a fastener, particularly in aluminum and cause it to pull threads and susequently cause the unit to fail. I have no doubt he knows what he's doing but to tell the general public that you can properly torque something like that is dangerous. He should have stated the proper torque spec. That way anyone trying it on their own could figure out how to reach that spec. And not just try to wing it with a thandle allen.

[@jimtheriac7249]

How much time did you spend on rebuild

[@matthewolson8875]

Takes me about 1.5 hours to tear down, a few hours to clean, and a couple hours to rebuild usually. Takes a while to clean all the parts well....which is probably the biggest time sink

[@joew9392]

I never give much over $50 for any parts saw because you never know what's wrong inside the engine...

[@joew9392]

The last one I bought was $30 and it didn't need a piston/cylinder, still ended up well over $100....

[@matthewolson8875]

Smart