THE BEER IS POURING TOO WARM

[@PuddinJr1993]

Morning crew. May your coffee be strong and your on call phone be quiet

[@jasonjohnsonHVAC]

Amen rev

[@thomweg6468]

Thank you good sir!

[@ErickHernandez93]

Haha 😂 dope saying man if only it were true🥺🥲😂😂😂

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Comment of the day!

[@CM-ou4zr]

You jinxed me bro right after reading this comment the phone rang

[@austin4626]

As an electrician/ technician that watches your videos, your troubleshooting/ diagnosis/ analysis/ re-work is mint. Well done!

[@Jilocasindragon]

At this point I just gotta say thank you for putting all these videos up. I know your main goal was or is to provide insight and knowledge to your techs. Though I wanted to say, as just a form of tech-related entertainment and "out in the field work" curious" viewer, I highly appreciate you going to the effort of recording all this, clearing it up for a broader audience and just giving some very interesting insight into your work life. Every time your OCD makes you fix a contacter plate upright it gets a giggle out of me, since I would be 100% doing the same. I can relate so much to your way of thinking and approaching things the sane way, the "big picture" way. As a last piece of story, when I was visiting the US last year to see a friend and we went to a bar, they had one huge - I believe it was either a Crane or Carrier unit? - standing right next to the stairs you took when going to the roof lounge. It was such a cool and bizarre moment for me walking past one of the ACs that I watched hours and hours of video content of.. and then suddenly standing next to one. That was a crazy random moment, but so very cool! Glad your brain works the way it does, Chris! If by a random fart of the universe I ever get to meet you for some reason, I'm gonna buy you a drink. 😎

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Thanks bud I look forward to that drink!

[@tonitighe4008]

Hey Chris, happy to hear you are feeling nice and in the mood to fix air conditioning units

[@markbeiser]

On shaft up motors like that, I'd highly recommend installing rain shields on the new motors. Cheap measure to prevent water running down the shaft, or sitting on top of the motor in general. I get a lot more rain in my area than you do though.

[@Buczo997]

3:55 fuse on the left is completely bypassed

[@jasonjohnsonHVAC]

#bigpicture diagnosis. Nicely done Chris. I've seen a lot of fan motors that people forget or didn't know to relocate those plugs in the motors. You cleaned up that panel nicely too. Lots of good advice in your videos...i hope people take it to heart and implement it in their day to day lives as a tech. I especially like how you constantly repeat that what you show is your way.....not "THE WAY", to do things. I don't like when you are told to do things only a certain way.....most things we do have multiple ways to achieve the same goal.....find your own way/ style to get er done.

[@lonewolf1401]

Great video one thing I like about you is you explained everything in layman's terms what you're doing and it really does help understand what you're doing

[@carloshilarionvazquezaranda]

Realizaste un trabajo excelentísimo gracias por todo tú tiempo y enseñanzas para todos tus seguidores. Saludos y nuevamente un trabajo estupendo.

[@ILOVECALGARY2024]

If these are just your highlights in a 30 minute video, my heart goes out to your poor back and knees, because you spend too much time in the field but I also want to thank you for helping me set my career path

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@craigerickson8712]

Great stuff !. I am way green and this helps so much . " Trust your gut " . Love all the detail shown . Drain plug , wire rub , better to do a homerun when you can , hub position ect . A little hvacr 101 with my morning cup of joe .

[@dyl4446]

I love how thorough you are.. I aspire to be like you

[@takethe101totarzana4]

Sunday and HVACR VIDEOS. Its gonna be a good day.

[@tracysellman1562]

I actually liked working on these refrigeration racks at one time I had 122 of them I took care of along with all my other units at different locations we had over 8,000 customer base with about 6,000 being commercial. OMG, I have two chains I hate McDonalds being one and Pizza Huts. The smell of putrid hamburger grease all over the roof used to make me about puke every time until I got painters masks and put Vicks on them, I learned this trick in the late 1980s from a friend that was a corner, lol and Pizza Huts uses Rice flower to make pizza dough, not wheat flour and the evap coils would rot, full of rice flour dust and then get wet and ferment, now talk about a bitch to clean and not puke. lol

[@oscalerup1129]

I’ve never thought about putting those hubs on that way. I will definitely have to keep that in mind, my usual thought is screw the hub to the blade then why would you want to mess with the set screw for the shaft on the bottom of the blade 😅

[@anoytech1758]

Brilliant professional technician...

[@aschmitt89]

awesome catch with the shorted-out wire in the conduit. Your Thorough run-down of the situation speaks loads for the quality work you do. keep it up!

[@sercasti]

At 7:37 you mixed up systems. You where testing system C but switched on the breaker for system B

[@throttlebottle5906]

le-whoopsie

[@kthwkr]

"1,2,3 Please don't blow up" That's now my favorite phrase to live by. I even use it when I re-boot my computer.

[@gregmercil3968]

Lol I say that phrase a lot too.

[@richardbartlett6932]

Forgot to say : Great work Chris a excellent find regarding the cable failure.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Thanks Richard!!

[@richardbartlett6932]

@@HVACRVIDEOS ​ I'm on your side Chris 100%. I may not always agree but that doesn't mean I'm right and you're wrong! I'm here because I fully respect you and what you're doing out there in the heat. I totally recommend all new guys to the trade (and those who think they know it all and those who know they don't) to follow your videos and take in how you approach fault finding and repairs. 👌

[@jeremyvandeusen4317]

I’m currently working on a 36vdc golf cart motor that has an open in it. Just got brushes in today to see if that’s the issue. I love your methodology and attention to neatness. I used to do networking and broadcast engineering. All my cables/wires had to be neat. As a medic now, I’m still the same way with IV lines and the heart monitor cables.

[@stevencossaboon3237]

Nice work as always Chris. Thank you for the knowledge.

[@MiguelNavarro-gs2tr]

High quality work. Good job man! Lovin your videos.

[@maheradous9257]

Very good job buddy. Thank you for this video.

[@badzioch64]

This video is a home run! Great job

[@markae0]

Love that you showed the rubbed out wire.

[@jasonwynn318]

This guy makes you want to work for him

[@keovongvilaykeo4799]

Always great seeing troubleshooting thank you 🙏

[@johnwalker890]

Good job Chris.

[@ВладимирИвашечкин-п4е]

Your investigations are very good. Thank you.

[@billmiller5075]

I’ve learned a lot from you Thank you

[@stephenbullock-yn3vh]

Excellent fix 👍

[@ATSNorthernMI]

What really sucks is being a worker that didn't have anything to do with it having management come down just chewing you out to go move it as fast as humanly possible to clean out an electrical room because they aren't going to pay the guy 500 dollars more in time doing it.

[@johnriff85]

When taking out fan motors that are mounted like that I've taken a few pieces of scrap cardboard and cut them in to strips with my knife and stacked tbem until they could almost support the motor just to be certain I wasn't going to pierce or damage the coil. Its a pretty effective method in awkward situations.

[@danpresson]

Awesome video

[@kevinp1904]

When he turned on the compressor the first time to test it did he turn on B and not C? At 7:40

[@DANGERTIM112]

yeah, i saw the same thing, he turned on B while working on C

[@keith_5584]

Glad I was not the only one. I was afraid to speak up.

[@gekkedirkie]

@@keith_5584 don't be afraid, its good to speak when something is looking wrong

[@kg4muc]

Good call on that motor being waterlogged previously💯

[@Kwaq84]

Oh, man, I would be repairing this motor so much. If windings are still good just replace the bearings. I love bringing stuff from dead ;), but I work as an in-house maintenance guy. I usually repair stuff and keep it as a emergency replacement, mostly of the equipment that's not readily available (or not available at all).

[@GuillermoFrontera]

I love too, but realistically, the motor may be cheaper than the hour man of being repaired, also, is brand new.

[@unmountablebootvolume]

In this case, it is not only the work needed to fix it, but also reliability. If this motor fails, the systems will shut off on high pressure, causing the freezers to warm up and trash thousands of dollars worth in food. While fixing parts is nice, it does not make sense in a critical application, and just makes more sense to trash a $100 motor than to risk loosing $2000 of frozen food because it failed on friday night and noone noticed until monday morning. Fixing parts makes sense if the part is unlikely to cause major damage if it fails, but things like walk-in freezer fan motors or engine oil pumps should go in the trash if they are in questionable condition.

[@Kwaq84]

@@unmountablebootvolume Very true. I forgot to mention I did repairs on ventilation and A/C fan motors, so in case of failure no damage is done. One of the fans was complete unobtainium here where I live, so it was either repairing it or replacing of the whole split A/C. Other ones are ventilation stuff, that's way too expensive to replace for my taste - the complete assembly of the motor with the propeller is 200€, when put into a metal shroud of roof fan (few pieces of bent sheet metal) the price suddenly skyrockets to 800€. Two standard ball bearings (SKF is my go to brand) costs around 5€. Labor is pretty much nonexistent on these - in one case there were four screws keeping both halves of motor case together, on the other there is a circlip on the motor shaft that prevents "falling apart". Bearings are quite small in diameter, so they don't pose much of a challenge to replace (I can do it while still on the roof). I'm not counting the time needed to disassemble the whole unit, as this is the same whether I would be repairing or replacing parts. In most cases there were bearings that went bad. On A/C unit it was a torn seal that allowed water to creep in and rust the front bearing. On ventilation fans bearings were worn because they work 16 hours a day. If after inspection I see windings are good and only bearings were cause, I give the motor a good cleaning and replace the bearings. If windings are damaged, smaller motors usually go into scrap bin, as it is usually worthwhile to rewind motors from 1 kW up.

[@enire8477]

I think you had an error there at 7:35 you were working on system C, but flipped breaker B to check if it was working?

[@GlenS123]

Great call on motor and wiring, that would have been a call-back.

[@throttlebottle5906]

is that a bypassed fuse on the far left at 3:34 red wire moved from bottom to top, direct unfused from contactor? lol. ** edit, you caught it later in video 17:06 😁 I'm good at noticing electrical, plumbing and other things that have been cluster-forked.

[@JackalJEB]

Another great video. It would drive me crazy too seeing 1 fan with one rotating in different direction. I don't know why they don't pick the right rotational motor as the preexisting motors. So the next tech doesn't go nuts.

[@EnderMalcolm]

Don't know if you caught it later yet, but during your test, you turned on system B, not system C.

[@hoggsoft]

Came here to say that And I believe the contactor he was working on was br B as well. The older looking contactor has a big "C" label beside it

[@clevilee]

Nice work 👍

[@Ernoskij]

I have not watched it all yet, so you might be addressing this at a later point, but at 4:23 you were looking at the contactor and the fuses for the fan motors, and you look at the output for motor 1, which is 201, but the red wire doesn't go from the output, that goes directly from the input on motor 1, seemingly completely ignoring the fuse. Isn't that a problem that it doesn't go through the fuse? EDIT: you did mention it later, didn't really talk about whether it was problematic though (I am aware that it aught to go through the fuse, more how problematic is it that it doesn't)

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@brushben22]

Hey Chris . Can you help me understand cut in and cut out on a dual pressure control specifically on the low side. I have a 404a Scrool compressor solenoid unit with a box temp at 15degrees. The box holds animals that are deceased. The solenoid is above the freezer and the condensing unit is on the roof top. Unit was short cycling even more as ambient temp rises.The cut in / cut out was set to 5-20 but the compressor was short cycling once in a while. What would be a proper setting for that temp? I moved it to 28/3 and my short cycle has completely stopped but it still doesn’t add up on PT Chart.

[@Hvacserviceking]

Hello hvac world 🇺🇸

[@norcal715]

At 3:47 why did someone bypass the left fuse and land the terminal to the line side of the fuse block? Motor 2 has both load side leads landed correctly. This is how far I am into the video. Maybe you cover it later. Thank you. Edit, you caught it at 17:07 Great Job!

[@76queen]

In theory the motor is still protected by the correct fuse as current has to run though the other fuse. The only issue is no earth fault protection excepting the supply fuses above inline before the fan fuses.

[@ntsecrets]

I’d imagine having the fan cycling switches in extends the period between needed cleanings.

[@jackdowning3101]

Chris what're your thought on mounting caps upside down. I've heard that it's technically not the correct way but i've come across them upside down and they never seem to fail prematurely. @16:07

[@arthurhartwick7974]

You could have checked for current on the compressor when you first got there. That would have told you if it was off on overload.

[@jorgee910]

Awesome video 📹

[@garyr7027]

A food pantry in my town had two brand new walkin freezers installed not too long ago, but was only using one of them. Everything worked great until one day our town "supposedly" had a power surge and half the town lost power. Once the power got restored, that freezer refused to work. Since I know the guy who runs the pantry, he had me look at the freezers for my opinion on what happened. I'm not all that firmilair with the system, so together we concluded a bad switch at the control board to the pump. Later he had the guy who install the system come out and fix it. He replaced that switch and claimed that's all was wrong with it. However, now the switch constantly trips off and on every 30 seconds, once kicked on the pump runs, but then the cooling system inside the freezers never reach set temperature, it's always off by 12 degrees or higher, yet the switch and the pump constantly tripping off then back on. I still don't believe it's right to this day, even though the repair guy says it's normal. Even another guy said it's still messed up. Imo, if our town did get a power surge, I believe it's very possible that surge did something to the control board, since no fuses ever blew, or a breaker even tripped. So there's really no protection to that control board if indeed we did have a power surge, which in itself doesn't seem right to me. Never seen a freezer constantly kick off and on like that, and even the guy who runs the pantry said it didn't use to do that before the power outage. To this day as far as I've heard the system still constantly kicks off and on, I would think eventually something's gonna flat out quit or burn up.

[@alex6matias]

I would think in a high vibration environment like that they would use non metallic flex conduit so wire wouldn't rub out like that.

[@throttlebottle5906]

yeah, but the engineer probably thought and was taught, the metal type wouldn't vibrate and wear through from outside in as fast. probably taught that way! lol, it's a catch 22.

[@dashcamandy2242]

I wonder if the bad bearing produced enough internal heat to "boil off" most of the moisture ingress in that condenser fan motor? I showed my mother the photo I took of my walk-in's uphill drain pan plumbing today. Even she, with no mechanical experience or knowledge whatsoever, could see the problem with that! (Granted, her father was a plumber, but she wasn't really involved in his work.)

[@brettbuck7362]

I have nothing to do with this aside from watching the videos, but don't you need to clean the dirt out of the bottom where the compressors mounts? As soon as it dries out, it might get sucked back into the condensor. Or is it too thick and to muddy, so it dries solid?

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Yeah it would be a good idea but it's too time consuming and I don't carry a big enough shop vac with me...

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@Yuracirlce]

My god you just racked up the ticket on those customers and the hours from your company lol.

[@KingOfKYA]

Motor1 in panel has red wire bypassing fuse fyi. Oh nvm you got it :p

[@gekkedirkie]

saw that too

[@1mrhamel]

Hey Chris, if you tape air filters to the those grills on the rack, could that cut down on the buildup seen on the underside coils? If the customer has a filter changing company they can handle the maintenance, eliminating service calls.

[@44R0Ndin]

That's a good idea, but it's usually more trouble than it's worth with all the different kinds of "junk" that can be found in the air at any given time. In NY state, or at least my part of NY state, that idea would never get off the ground, because in the spring time all the trees bud out and there's loads of pollen in the air, plus later on in the year you get the double-whammy of normal dandelion fluff in the air, plus the dang Dagwood trees go to seed around that time and they have just the most obnoxious kind of filter-clogging seeds you can imagine. It's like dandelion seeds but 20x worse, because there's just SO MUCH OF IT. I'm an auto mechanic, and when the dagwoods go to seed is when I get most of my yearly crop of cabin and engine air filter replacement calls (mostly "why is my engine not making any power?" complaints for the engine air filter, or "Why is there nothing coming out the vents of my car's heating/ac system even tho the fan's on full blast?" complaints for the cabin air filter).

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@danielcarrera125]

Hey Chris, noticed you said you don’t like using the capacitor straps. What do you recommend?

[@44R0Ndin]

You'll notice in this video that the "capacitor strap" in question was in fact not even a proper capacitor strap, it's just a standard-issue worm-type hose clamp, the kind that no sane automotive engineer uses anymore because they chew up the hose too much and that leads to early failures. How do I know nobody sane uses those kind of hose clamps anymore? I'm an auto mechanic, and they switched pretty much universally to the "spring-wire type" over a decade ago by now (probably closer to 15-20y ago by now actually, I might only be 35 now but that makes me feel old). EDIT: In any case, the far superior thing to retain a capacitor is a proper bracket for it, situated far away from the vibration of the motor itself. Capacitors don't like vibration just like everything else doesn't like it. If it's severe enough, it can break the connection from the plates of the capacitor to the terminals, given enough time anyways.

[@briansmyla8696]

That roof access? I'd have told them to get it cleared, and I'd put them back into rotation for the next available appointment.

[@docdat3468]

Ahhh forbidden slushy out of the troth

[@sarah1390]

All that experience was put to work here. Yeah you changed some parts to nip the problem in the bud but in the long run with a business, I'd rather pay a little more upfront to stop that problem than suffer the bigger costs of downtime to the system, lost sales revenue over an extended period of time and depending on what the system served especially if it were a fridge or freezer lost product. I had my own personal experience where a tire on my car kept losing air. I would periodically fill it up. I took my mother's advice just to live with it. Well in the end the tire went completely flat and it turns out I had driven to work on a completely flat tire, Shredded the interior of the tire and bent the rim. If the problem had of been investigated earlier I could have paid about a third of the price to have the small bead leak fixed by a tire place then having to pay the cost of a new tire and a new rim.

[@FerrybigGaming]

22:21 motor 2, bottom left terminal has some escaped copper wire strands

[@myarchus1]

Kinda surprised you didn't wash the debris from the bottom of the rack to prevent it from being sucked into the condenser and plugging it back up once it dries.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@suezq74]

0:48 that’s a good one! “Let’s SCROLL on over here”

[@blessdstry]

As a maintenance guy I would have loved for you to leave my breakers in the cabinet.

[@retrozmachine1189]

I know running singles (wires) is recommended in high vibration situations but would it be practical to run double insulated singles, ie has an outer sheath as well similar to normal in-wall cable, to give more mechanical protection to reduce the risk of a rub through? This would cover wire to wire rubs as well as wire to metal conduit.

[@Monkeh616]

I would have thought running a cable rather than wires in these conditions would remove a point of abrasion on the insulation, that is the wire to wire contact. Seems to me a suitable grade of cable run between proper supports would have less mechanical issues than running through metallic conduit for the sake of it.

[@retrozmachine1189]

@@Monkeh616 It will be a regulatory thing. Some places require the use of singles in high vibration areas as using a bundled cable prevents you from being able to examine the individual wires for damage. It might seem strange but wires in a sheath can still jostle and wear the insulation.

[@Monkeh616]

@@retrozmachine1189 Ah, yes, in a typical flexible cable the inner wires move freely in the sheath (one hopes). You can have them semi bonded so that doesn't occur, which makes stripping a joy and increases bend radius. Double insulated singles here aren't common any more or overly robust, but I believe you guys have.. is it THHN? singles with a hard outer sheath over the insulation, low friction.

[@retrozmachine1189]

@@Monkeh616 I'm not in the USA. We do have the wire type in Australia though. SDI - single double insulated. I'd be surprised if there is a country on earth that doesn't have the equiv.. and has an electrical supply too of course.

[@Monkeh616]

@@retrozmachine1189 Apologies, my bad assumption. In the UK we have double insulated singles, with a fairly soft sheath, known as 6181Y, which would fare quite poorly subjected to vibration abrasions. THHN, if I'm remembering rightly, has a hard nylon layer but doesn't count as double insulated, I don't believe we have a specific equivalent.

[@baxtergk1]

Judas Priest, it floors me to see how much hamburger maintenance goes on in the world. Run the condensor fans continuously, bypass pressure controls, water control plugs mis-installed - geez, how many more things can a tech do to compromise the features and robustness needed to ensure that the customer has a reliable system. Discouraging.

[@chucksmitleyv145]

Okay help me make sense of this… why have a single phase condenser motor when there is 3 phase power to the control panel? Is it a cost thing? I figure the 3 phase motor would be simpler and doesn’t rely on a capacitor to start 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@erg0centric]

I noticed the box by the motor has holes in the back and that liquid tight conduit has a low spot to hold yhe water that get in. I also noticed you mounted the new capacitor right side up. 👌

[@stephenhunter70]

One of the fluro lights was running only the filaments in each end of the tube the other wasn't running at all. I wonder if the fluro's had an under-volt supply problem?

[@44R0Ndin]

Could be that, could be a bad electronic ballast, or if it's a magnetic ballast it could be a bad starter. Lots of variables. EDIT: That's why I love ballast-bypass LED tubes, they fit in the same tombstone sockets as the existing tubes, you can get them that have a wide voltage input range (anything from 90v to 240v because they use a switch-mode power supply just like you'd find in a PC power supply or cell-phone charger brick or nearly all "wall wart" type mains supplied DC power supplies these days), and you can even get them that have the power feed set up so you can feed it into one end of the "tube", (2 wires to one tombstone), or any combination of a double-ended feed. Basically if you get the right LED replacement tubes, it won't even matter where you hook the hot and neutral wires so long as they don't just have a direct short before they get to the tube. The only real "hassle" with these kind of LED bulbs is that you have to entirely take the existing ballast out of the circuit, or it'll fry the tubes in short order from the "start voltage" spikes it tries to send to the tubes (because the ballast isn't smart enough to know that you've put something other than fluorescent tubes in there, so it just does what it always does). That's what they mean when they say they're "ballast bypass" tubes, you have to "bypass" the "ballast" to get them to work right. At worst, you might need some more wire nuts and some 14ga solid copper wire (some of black and some of white, THHN or THOW) for use inside the fixtures, in order to get them up and running. But I'm not an electrician, and it's simple enough for me to figure out, so IMO anyone who has a basic understanding of electricity and an appropriate level of respect for high voltages (aka anything over 48v) can do it. I just bought a 20 pack of 4ft LED tubes (ballast bypass kind) like this to use in my basement that currently has all its lighting taken care of by 4ft fluorescent tubes on magnetic ballasts. Quite an upgrade, and I might have to take out half the damn tubes because these new LED's are roughly 1200 lumens per tube, which is REALLY BRIGHT (an average tactical flashlight is 1000 lumens, but with a much more directional and not diffused beam of light). At least I'll have plenty of spares! If you're worried about safety, they say they're UL rated, and if you're worried about price, that whole 20 pack of 4 foot tubes, on Amazon, cost me less than $100 with Prime shipping (so it'll be here Tuesday or Wednesday since I ordered it Saturday). However, since they're replacing fluorescent tubes, it's pretty obvious to say that they don't support dimming, because 99% of the time you can't dim a normal fluorescent tube anyways so why should the LED thing that goes in the same spot support dimming? If you DO want dimming, they make entire LED fixtures that are designed to support low voltage dimming signals (0-10v) that will fit in the same spot as the existing fluorescent fixtures. But I wanted the option to keep replacing "just the bulb without having to re-wire the fixture" when the LED's eventually burn out (which happens far more frequently than it should, IMO, I shouldn't have to replace an LED bulb for 10y after I put it in, yet I can't seem to get an entire 3y out of it! Planned obsolescence at it's "best", I'm sure) The only thing they might not handle well is damp (bordering on wet) environments. And by that, I mean the kind of environment where you're already thinking about putting in waterproof light fixtures for the fluorescent tubes, so even my basement will not cause problems that I can't solve (maybe corrosion on the contact pins of the tubes, nothing a little sandpaper won't fix). I do have plans to prevent water coming into my basement too, because I know where the water's coming from.

[@browntigerus]

Those plugs are always bane. You would not believe how many times I have seen them not removed at the bottom and new motor is tripped and full of water.

[@xgeorgexstar1913]

I noticed when you turned the breaker of the problematic system on you thought you did ,you actually turned on systems B breaker to see if it's compressor would run ,not system C

[@MultiPureEnergy]

Yeah, I saw that too, but on going back to look he was testing for continuity on the system C contactor.

[@RESISTAGE]

was it budlight beer?

[@deineroehre]

Why didn't you rinse of the bottom where the compressors are mounted? This black dust/dirt will dry and sucked into the condenser in the next few hours. Perhaps it would be a good idea in general to mount the compressors higher than the rest so you can rinse thoroughly all of the device.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@armenmanoochehri7959]

Nice

[@evolvingguy2766]

June 15th 2023 !! That’s the day I got my GED

[@throttlebottle5906]

blade hub on top side, easier for them to tighten set screws or they just didn't give a fluck. 🤪

[@ntsecrets]

Could the fan motor over amp due to lack of airflow + extreme temps? Edit: saw you found the short!

[@76queen]

Strangely enough lack of airflow caused by blocked condenser reduces current!

[@ntsecrets]

@@76queen I thought that too. Like when a vacuum cleaner clogs and speeds up due to lack of air - less load.

[@jackdowning3101]

Pluggo Buggo @1:05

[@tonyking9235]

BUDDY NOTHING LIKES TO KEEP GOING OFF ON THERMAL OVERLOAD . TIMES I HAVE HAD AMPS IN HEAR FROM NIGHT CLUBS THAT HAVE BEEN GOING OF ON THERMAL OVERLOAD. COOKS THEM JUST NICE .

[@Goldstacker1972-kp2bh]

Why don't you turn your 4 wire motor onto a 3 wire that way you can run your cap back into the control panel instead of leaving it exposed inside the condenser area.

[@amoni1959]

How’s life in Southern California.

[@41Zman]

The heat is on its way were predicted 4 days of 107 in my area

[@NeighborhoodDada]

PF Changs?

[@rezz5700]

My guess Gary W wants this changed out.

[@wtfux]

When are the customers gonna get back on the preventative maintenance train again? That condenser was plugged...

[@denverbraughler3948]

A continuously running fan pulls more dirt.

[@daveyt4802]

Those ladders will F you up. AMHIK

[@michaelhaiden6718]

Did you know that clean blades move more air?

[@mathdj01]

Thoughts for why meg test passed even though there was worn insulation on the wire?

[@richardbartlett6932]

when a wire shorts it often jumps away from the point of contact if 'free' as the part of the wire that touched vaporizes and causes a small 'explosion' . Its usually if cable tied etc that it remains in contact.

[@denverbraughler3948]

The short was a momentary contact caused by a vibration.

[@richardbartlett6932]

@@denverbraughler3948 vibration caused the rub through of the wire.

[@denverbraughler3948]

@@richardbartlett6932: It seems that you didn’t follow through on your explanation. After the first explosion, if the circuit was reset, a momentary short would repeat under vibration. It’s not like the wires separated permanently. The question was why the megger didn’t detect the short. It would have had the wires been subjected to the same vibrations during the test that wore through the insulation during operation.

[@mathdj01]

@@denverbraughler3948 A meg test is looking for voltage leak through the insulation. What does the vibrations have to do with the meg test? The insulation was gone so voltage was leaking, it must have not leaked to ground, because that is where the meg looks unless the test was done to something else other than ground? Maybe HVCAR can better explain his Meg test procedure?

[@Nyarly_Relyeh]

Wire had stripped itself in the conduit.. Hmm. Why you can't throw this kind of conduit away, use double insulated wire in a plastic corrugated sleeve for outdoor use? I do not know the codes, but to my very unhumble opinion, power circuits should run in double isolated wires.

[@44R0Ndin]

That's a good idea, but the likely reason he couldn't throw that kind of conduit away was that he was trying to get the thing working again as quickly and affordably as possible, while still "doing it right". EDIT: I've just thought of another reason, it might be as simple as he didn't have any of the right kind of non-metallic flexible conduit in his van at the time. END EDIT In this case, that wire probably won't rub thru for the remaining life of that whole rack, it looks like it's been around for 5-10 years so in another 5 it's gonna be time to start looking at a whole new rack (or a bunch of discrete units, depending on what the customer wants of course).

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this live on KZbin this evening 6/26/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) come on over and check it out kzbin.infoYfxH9CHqIz4

[@kaib1125]

that unit said ur the turd ! 🤗

[@carlyleworkman1928]

👍🏿

[@calvinthompson5398]

Corn silk

[@Blubkuh]

you can see that the fuse for the fan motor 1 is not in use and the fan is wired into 201V directly at the top of the fuse. that should probably be fixed. I assume the fuse kept tripping and instead of swapping out the fan motor someone decided to just wire it into 201V directly (kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXOpk5upr62ro80)

[@Blubkuh]

And now i reached the 17 minute mark of the video and saw that you noticed it yourself. Good Job 👍

[@44R0Ndin]

@@Blubkuh If you're doing this on a PC, you can edit your comments pretty easily in the future. I'm not sure how easy it is to do on the mobile app for KZbin, but there still should be a way to do it. EDIT: Oh boy this is funny, now I can edit my comment to tell you how to edit your comment, because I forgot to include that the first time I posted it! Anyways, on PC, how you edit a comment is you hover over the comment with your mouse, and you should see 3 dots pop up to the right of the comment (between the text and the recommended videos feed). Click on those 3 dots and you should get a menu that pops up, then click on "edit" to start editing your comment. This is also how you DELETE your comments if you later decide you wish you hadn't posted them (because the other option that pops up is "delete", which will pop up a confirmation dialog asking you if you're sure you want to delete it). END EDIT Also, if you want to time-stamp something in the future, you can just state the time as Hours : Minutes : Seconds (no spaces) and KZbin will parse that into a link you can click on that will jump you to the right time. For instance, for your time stamp, you'd just put in 4:01 and KZbin should take care of the rest (at least within this video).

[@jssteve119]

First, love the vid. Keep up the good work 🎉

[@michaelhaiden6718]

If it ain't broke don't fix it .for some reason you get fixated on none issues

[@glennschlorf1285]

Cant have Warm Beer... or melted Ice cream....

[@daveyt4802]

Costs too much for a maintenance contract.

[@shine-cg9uf]

🇺🇲💪👍❄️ nice work