Quill Power Downfeed Adjustment

[@mcjust4049]

Just did this on mine last night. Worked perfectly! Thank you for taking the time to show the tips and tricks, it is appreciated! Been fooling with the clutch on mine for a few months and couldnt get the feed to work. Did this and it works great now. Thanks!

[@gordonagent7037]

Great video again Barry and after watching it a few times I picked up more and more. I like how you are so specific with the parts as I write down as much as I can, draw sketches of stuff I want and I have learned and understand so much better by watching your demonstations than I ever could by reading the manual. In the Mill Head teardown you also added the parts list as you went through, this was an awesome additionand much appreciated. I realise you do this for a job but I love some of the jigs you have made for holding your heads so reckon I need to make up something myself. Your'e a good man Barry to share your experience and time and responses with us, please know that myself and many of your watches truly appreciate it. Best regards from across the oceans my friend

[@babayaga4225]

I done the bridgeport head exchange. I now have the smoothest quietest running 1.5 varidrive ever. The guys are top notch.

[@workwillfreeyou]

Very nice shop, very nice job with all videos. Jim.

[@stevetaylor2445]

thanks a million,worked like a charm on my kent/bridgeport clone

[@ccfoam]

Hi Barry Thank you so very much for doing these videos. They are very much appreciated. Our power quill feed wasn't working so after watching this video and the other one on quill feed issues I tore it down, cleaned all of the parts up and put it back together. My issue is with the reverse neutral forward shaft assembly. Can you explain the operation of how that reversing shaft works and also the proper re-assy of the setscrews in the shaft. I need to mess around way to much with the tightness of setscrews to get it to work properly. Thank you!

[@jemijona]

Luckily I don't need this adjustment yet on my Bridgeport but the engage lever wasn't working due to the trip out block on the end of the engage lever shaft coming out too far allowing the spring loaded mechanism inside that block to drop off the boss near the tip of the trip shaft. The trip shaft was binding as well. Adjusted the limit stop bolt on the lever arm at the clutch housing and a liberal application of CRC all around and now the engage lever is engaging and staying engaged. This video certainly helped, thank you Barry, especially putting the quill half way through travel to not break gears if it ends up going backwards. And I can see how the circlip can be broken as well because I nearly did it myself. A great learning experience. All I have to fix now is the reversing mechanism on the quill feed, but that can wait for another day.

[@mog5858]

thanks for the nice video. keep up the good work

[@PLINKER]

How much of the set screw do you leave protruding inside of the clutch cover ? Then one puts a nut on the outside and tightens.

[@wjbirm]

Thanks for this. I bought a Webb Champ 3 (BP clone), and I think the clutch arm is tweaked. The clutch will not disengage. Rather than buy a new arm, I'll try your set screw modification and see if that works for me.

[@wjbirm]

Dude! You rock! 5 minutes of labor and a nickle's worth of fasteners and my issue is fixed! Thank you so much for the video!

[@Robonthemoor]

Do you know anything about the ram & quill on a gate G301D milling machine.

[@vijaydoshi9097]

Hey Barry - thanks for all of the videos. They are super useful. Quick question. The gear at the bottom of my cluster gear stack is totally stripped - I believe it is called the Feed Reverse Bevel Pinion. My question is whether there is a way; short of a complete tear down, to access the set screw so I can replace it. Thanks in advance!

[@HWMachRepair]

Unfortunately you will have to take the whole top half of your head off in order to have access to this. There is no other way to get it out except through the top of the quill housing. -Barry

[@everlast2658]

Thank you

[@mrhp434]

Mine had spring adjusted all the way in by previous owner because quil was bound up. I ordered new spring from you in my last order. I cant find and info on where to start with spring tension. Do you have a measurement for that? Or is there a torque measurement for clutch release at quil feed?

[@FKreider]

mrhp434 I’m having the same issue

[@MAsWorld1]

Soooo helpful 😅

[@davidschwartz5127]

What would cause the handle not to latch in the closed position, the handle just springs right back to the open position?

[@HWMachRepair]

Most likely the Feed Trip Plunger that is behind the scale is stuck in the up or kick out position. First put the quill handle down about 1” from the top so the Quill Stop is not touching either the top of the quill housing or the stop on the micro screw. Remove the bottom screw in the scale and see if you can then wiggle the Feed Trip Plunger up and down. If you can then you should be okay. If it is still not working it is possible the kick out set screw is too high or things are gummed up somewhere else. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 to discuss it further over the phone. -Barry

[@happylivelife8166]

I want work job your workshop dear sir . Nice work

[@larescats9228]

Hello Barry what would cause the clicking sound and ratcheting in selfie down it clicks stops and then goes again thank you Larry

[@HWMachRepair]

The clicking noise as the handle is moving down without the downfeed engaged would be the placement of the overload clutch gears. They are just barely touching and would have a clicking noise. It will go away after a little bit because they are so close to touching that it just might move enough away after a bit. You can give me a call if you would like to discuss your specific issue over the phone: [phone]

[@shawnhuk]

Guy rolls by on a scooter. Lol

[@larescats9228]

Hello Barry Mine in self feed clicks like it’s ratcheting. Would this fix it Larry

[@carrollprice1213]

What you are hearing is two gears rubbing together. I had the same problem which I think is common among Bridgeports and Bridgeport clones. This modification should solve your problem by allowing you to adjust (increase) distance between the two gears.

[@jesusisalive3227]

What causes this malfunction?

[@HWMachRepair]

Normally it is due to wear in the two halves of the clutch but sometimes it is a problem with the quill handle taking a hit and shifting slightly knocking things out of adjustment.

[@ebayollis]

Mine engagement lever isnt staying "out" when it try ro engage the power feed of the quill...any ideas?

[@HWMachRepair]

That could be a variety of issues. Could you give us a call and we can help troubleshoot it over the phone: [phone]

[@ebayollis]

@HWMachRepair I will when I get back home...thank you so much. I'm on eastern time. What time zone are you

[@HWMachRepair]

@@ebayollis We're also on eastern.

[@docokd7oco443]

Would have been really cool if you would have 1. Explained what you did and why 2. Showed what you did.

[@carlyleporter5388]

All these Bridgeport repair videos I've watched from H&W have been indispensably helpful. This one was the least well explained of the series.

[@atcmadness4351]

You give no explanation whatsoever of what this "mod" actually does but you warn us that unless the quill is down a bit you may ruin your gears. It would be helpful if you explained that it that setscrew is set in too far or out too far it doesn't allow the gears to separate enough?? and then they strip?? That's what I'm assuming, but I'm guessing.... Are we limiting the "throw" of the clutch?? If you could elaborate a teenie tiny bit it sure would be helpful...