Hybrid Battery Repair Ultimate Guide (Toyota Prius 2nd Gen 2004-2009) DIY

[@alduck954]

This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries batery.repair and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!

[@tobysarsi6864]

You are the man, Igor! Not only doing this repair in the wind and cold of winter with snow on the ground, and on your street (!) but also filming your repair under these conditions, wow, kudos to to you and thanks for the informative video!

[@andycrane551]

Great idea with the excel spreadsheet and multicharger, seriously best tutorial on KZbin for fixing hybrid batteries.

[@kurtrhoney6811]

This is probably the best video on reconditioning of battery modules that I have found to date online. Some other people have some decent ones, but you explained it pretty well and it's my reference video I go back and watch again and again to understand everything going on with the batteries I am trying to recondition and change out.

[@Luisjun91]

Hi Igor I just wanted to pass and say THANK YOU SO MUCH. You have been an amazing help on the process of refurbishing my battery and your quick response to every question I had in the process. I had 0% of understand the hybrid battery and even so I have plenty of family members that are mechanics nobody knew how to help either. I will recommend this video as much as I can to every Hybrid owner I know to help your channel grow and if there’s any other way I could help please reach out. Again thank you from the bottom of my heart sir you’re amazing in explaining and answering my tedious question. Wish you the best of luck in everything God bless 🙏🏽🙏🏽 And for anybody doubting they can do it stop thinking that way. You can best of luck and ask my friend over here he is the best.

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hi Luis, thank you for your kind words! I am happy that it worked for you!

[@johanippel7433]

I followed this step by step and my Prius is now running as new. This is a great piece of work. Well done and thanks for making it available.

[@kpk1014]

How long did you let the modules rest to read the "V after test" referred to on the spread sheet? Ty

[@johnnygdartenay1983]

Igor, as many others have said, WELL DONE SIR! It’s a very detailed video with a lot of relevant editing. Obviously you have put a lot of effort into both the video and battery reconditioning process. Thank you so much, it’s very helpful.

[@c.g.4392]

From a aerospace engineer, thanks so much for an excellent teaching and most of all the spreadsheet.

[@ziggyc4474]

Nice job aerospace engineer

[@alexandres8846]

Hello, for hybrid or nimh batteries to work for many years, they require passive and permanent balancing due to their low cell tension, they will not be the same. This is solved by connecting a shunt zener diode with its current limiting resistor. It balances all the cells at the same voltage. It is not perfect and a small percentage of capacity is lost, but it is better than a dead battery after 3 years. This method is highly effective, reliable and easy to integrate, achieving triple the useful life of a battery.

[@AJTarnas]

do you have a video or link to instructions?

[@eugenevosko7832]

Can you please provide details of how to do it? Thanks

[@TheSiyouFS]

Hi, any details about that it's kind of a good idea?

[@alexandres8846]

hello everyone on the internet there is a lot of information on shunt balancing methods.

[@8lazingSaddles]

Dear Igor, I wanted to thank you for your video which along with the Prius Chat threads enabled me to do a good job re-balancing all the modules in our 2006 Prius. I only had to replace one cell! She's running great now with no Triangle of Death nor any codes whatsoever. I did forget to push down the handle on the orange service plug which resulted in the car not going into drive, reverse or even the motor starting. So I wanted to emphasize this step for others considering this process. BTW, I wanted to mention that I used the Hi-Tec X4 AC Pro AC/DC 4 Port Multicharger which performed flawlessly and didn't require any external power supplies to keep up with the load.

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Thanks for feedback, Bill! I am glad you fixed your battery. It's funny, but it happened to me too, even though it's not on the video, I forgot to reinstall safety plug and it would not start. I even got upset that I would have had to disassemble it again, but then I realized my mistake and fixed it quickly :) Thanks for the tip about the charger. The one I recommended is not available anymore

[@kerem54545454]

Bill Byrd can you rebalance this hybrid battery until draining all the cell till the lowest cell? To even out the modules? I’m just trying to learn how to rebalance.

[@AJTarnas]

how many hours did it take you to refurbish your battery?

[@8lazingSaddles]

@@AJTarnas I was working on it for about a week during the day. I'm still on the same battery 3 years later.

[@jerrygillgren5324]

Most excellent comprehensive and well documented video for Hybrid battery on KZbin! Thanks Igor. I did reconditioning in the past but your methodology was superior! Great Job!

[@pritambissonauth2181]

One of the most extensive video on the subject, you are covering the module balancing which is rare. Thanks

[@dancook188]

Igor, this is an EXCELLENT step-by-step video!! Thank you for taking the time to walk through every part so thoroughly, very much appreciate by me and no doubt many others seeking reliable help for doing this job. Keep up the great work my friend! =)

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Thank you Dan! Really appreciate your feedback 🙂 I am glad I was able to help

[@ThetaPower]

Best tutorial on KZbin for fixing hybrid batteries. Thank you. One comment: With the Ideal grease on the contact, your torque may be too high as the grease will make a slippery surface.

[@IgorKadulenkov]

That's a good point, thanks. I guess you could decrease the torque in this case

[@ilovedacupcakes]

Actually, it is just the opposite. The lubricant allows the proper torque. Lawson Products studied this and came out with a lubricant for lug nuts on HD trucks so that the proper torque is achieved.

[@iskoos]

I congratulate you for your dedication and hard work. You cannot get this kind of service from anywhere no matter how much you are willing to pay. Good job...

[@rivan0]

but you can buy brand new battery :)

[@IgorKadulenkov]

@@rivan0 ~$400 vs $2500-3000

[@tombukt2]

New Dr Prius gen 2 lithium conversion 1600

[@hoonetic]

My God! I'm freezing just watching this video, and I'm in sunny Florida! LOL So much RESPECT to you for doing this in 28-degree weather with possibly a wind chill factor! Great job!

[@snookwhaler]

Great video man! I'm about to do the same to our 2008 Camry Hybrid. I have done tutorials like this in forums and it's not an easy thing to do. I really appreciate the detail and time you spent!

[@davidkendrick213]

I totally enjoyed this video. Very learning experience. I learned enough to know I don’t want to work on it. I was a project manager for the DD on the F16, F110 engine in Turkey. I’m retired now. However, some of the same principles apply to the electronics on the engine and the engine test stand.

[@Zipadelli]

In your section where you give the links to the equipment used I would discard the trunigy 4x6 for some other charger. They did away the capacity results after doing the discharge/charge cycle. I thought I was doing something wrong and finally reached out. Turns out they updated the firmware on this unit and it no longer gives you the capacity report on each charge/discharge session at the end. Total crap imho, as I will now be returning the unit as we bought it for this vital function that is no longer available due to their firmware update. I mean you can watch it in live action and try to catch it when it switches cycles, but some sessions last up to eight hours and I don’t really feel like sitting there staring at this unit. Any suggestions on what other charger can perform this would be appropriated.

[@grahamh3500]

Brilliant video as I’m having problems with my hybrid and wanted to know the work involved in reconditioning the battery. You sir have the patience of a saint very meticulous and methodical which you need on a very time consuming job. Impressive to say the least 😊

[@فكّرلِغدٍأفضل]

Best hybrid batteries repair tutorial. Thank you and we are waiting for more batteries repairing tutorials!

[@michaelmarks1391]

Hello Igor, thank you so much for the effort you put forward into making this video. My wife's car needs this service and so I will be trying it myself soon. You've helped me a lot. Cheers!

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hello Michael, thanks for your feedback and good luck with the project!

[@kpk1014]

@@IgorKadulenkov How long did you let the modules rest to read the "V after test" referred to on the spread sheet? Ty

[@cawag98]

@igorkadulenkov How is your battery 3-4 years later? I followed your steps (except I didn't match internal resistances in new blocks by the repaired/replaced modules very scientifically) and got errors that Dr Prius (the actual guy, Jack!) suggested mean either resistance in the orange harness (replace?) or a failing battery ECU (the rectangular thing wit the (dangerous) orange plug going into it. Once I reopened the battery metal cover, I could immediately see bad green/brown corrosion on the copper bus bars - much worse than the car had when I removed the battery 3 years ago - when the battery was 17 years old. I used NoAlox like you did, so I'm wondering if that was not helpful for you either? Another problem in my car is water intrusion. Though I caulked and sealed what I thought were all the rear area leaks, it appears there are more of them than I thought - and shockingly I can day light through the driver side rear wheel well area above a few inches above the rear strut! So when driven in rainy conditions, I assume quite a bit of tire-spun water was getting in to the area close to the battery. I will be using some Rust Reformer and Bondo or something on that, but that might account for some of my corrosion. However, I wondered if others had bad corrosion after it. As for the condition of the HV Battery, Dr Prius (the app) says the battery itself is at 88% (OK/Good) after 3 years, though I've not dug into the module checking (grrr, not looking forward to that weeks long process again) yet...

[@HankHill1]

This video is so amazing!! If i were to put a value in dollars worth of information provided in this video it would be many thousands. I've read that reconditioning is inconclusive/unnecessary VS. just swapping them out (if you know which cell is bad!).. well this video clearly showed why it is not only good to do, but wise to extend the life of *all* of the cells. Having said that, I think the logic still stands that if you are buying a reconditioned battery off ebay/online - that battery should theoretically match your current cells. The refurbished cells have been discharged and recharged, basically to match the rest of the cells. So things should be all good by simply swapping them out. I realize the technical guys might disagree, but I think it makes more sense to me IF the person is not able to do the extra work like in this video.

[@maloosecat123]

I just got a quote for a new battery pack at my local Toyota dealership for $1,600 (June, 2022) marked down from the original price of $2000 ...so now watching this video.

[@backwoodsbungalow9674]

That is good news. I have seen some hybrid repair shops in England got some new battery packs from Toyota in 2022 and are selling them for about $1600.

[@Azarie03]

Thanks for taking the time to film this while doing it... in the snow and wind.

[@benjamindraxlbauer]

I did a full battery reconditioning according to this guide! It is a great guide! Thanks a lot. I had to replace 4 cells and after cycling and reconditioning, the battery works way better than before :) But be aware of the fact, that it takes a lot of time (I spent about 1,5 week to do all the steps). Of course it is not hard work and not that difficult but My experience: I used a 4x Turnigy Charger and a 2x Skyrc T200 charger. The Skyrc T200 worked better than the Turnigy. Thanks anyway for this really great tutorial! It saved me about 2400€!!!!!

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Thanks a lot for your feedback! Stories like yours keep me going. DIY is easier than many of us tend to think. I am glad you fixed your battery!

[@jackjack4412]

Did you need an external power source for the skyrc t200? If so, what did you use?

[@cawag98]

Some thoughts for folks who just watched this video - this was what I did about a month ago before completing my HV battery work: This is a great video but you can improve on certain little bits of it - and learn details from other good videos and websites. For example, remove the rails/white blocks from the HV battery case and do your cycle rebalancing outside of the case. At the end, after you've made your module replacements, switches and swaps, you can easily bolt it back together on your bench - and then put it into the HV case - no struggling and squeezing - that might potentially break the tabs on the white blocks. Another thing: mentioned by Igor, balance all your cells by tying + and - together (thus putting the modules all in parallel for 24 hrs., after you bring their final voltages to within .05v of each other. There's an excellent HV battery assembly/disassembly video set by user Eletronautomotive, who do HV battery reconditioning professionally and made their video to help their customers remove and install the packs sent out to them.

[@manuel8617]

It is not a good idea to do your module cycling outside the case , in fact it is a very bad one , even with hobby chargers and plenty of ventilation the battery modules will swell and if not compressed they can and will expand. By leaving them inside the case this prevents any sort of expansion , if you are worried about the tabs on the white blocks breaking , you can always use ratchet bar clamps to relieve some of the pressure off the tabs. Also 'balancing' the cells by voltage does absolutely nothing for the battery , I am not sure how this idea got spread , but the only balancing that should be done should be dictated by the capacity , internal resistance and voltage under load, if the all of these parameters are closely matched then the voltage should naturally follow. This is like treating the symptoms instead of the disease.

[@robertrukidding3055]

What rails/white blocks are you referring to?

[@cawag98]

@@manuel8617I agree you shouldn't charge the modules outside of the rails/white blocks (whatever that vice-like structure is called). I was saying that the whole 28 modules in those rails and end white pieces can be removed from the metal battery case.

[@bariswheel]

That was a lot of work, thanks for putting this together and sharing it and congratulations for restoring your battery

[@paulcamalin5236]

@37:11 Will you please tell me if you see any voltage across the junction box terminals before connecting those leads from the car. I have a battery for RX450H. It's outside the car now. When I measure the voltage across those two terminals it shows zero voltage but I know the modules are good. I expected to see around 300 volt but I see zero. Is there any safety feature that makes it necessary for those leads from the car to be connected to the terminals before it shows any voltage? Thanks!

[@paulcamalin5236]

Here is the answer from JOSIAH DASSI and I am copy pasting his answer. He is totally right! "there would be no voltage there until the contactors are activated,,,,the contactors won't be activate with those frame wires disconnected...you'd get an AA6 code"

[@JamesAndersen100]

Igor, you’ve done the world a great service with this video. Thank you! But now that you’ve educated us on how to recondition our batteries; that it isn’t just a matter of one quick test on the cells before replacing one or two of them-and with the recommended Turnigy Charger now backordered for a month or so, I find myself in the middle of a lengthy process I wasn’t prepared for. So here’s my question: With the 1-cell charger I now have, my project looks to not be complete for a good month or more; when the Turnigy Charger would finally be available. So, would you recommend I just replace the worst of my cells right now, reinstall the battery, and then start the project anew when the Turnigy Charger comes in next month, or recondition just one cell a day for the next twenty-eight? And, are there any procedural changes to take, given the long timeline? Again, great video; great research you share! Thank you! I look forward to your reply.

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hello Jim, thanks for your feedback! For your question: i think it should be fine to just throw in a replacement module, if you already know which module had failed. This is a short term solution, performed by many questionable battery repair companies and it usually works just fine for a year or so until another module fails. If you do this, you need to level the voltage in replacement module to the rest of the pack. If you planning this as a temporary solution for a month or two, this sounds like a lot of work - removing and reinstalling the battery twice. Maybe it's better to get 3-4 more chargers from what is available? hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries-chargers/chargers.html?wrh=2%2C3&stock=1 I think some people were using IMAX B6 50W which is 25$ each. There is a bit of discussion about IMAX B6 on PriusChat forums. TURNIGY REAKTOR is really good, but it starts at 50$. You can also get Turnigy double chargers for 100$. You could also sell them on eBay later, once you've done with reconditioning.

[@JamesAndersen100]

Igor Kadulenkov Thank you, Igor. At your suggestion, I look to get enough chargers to recondition seven cells at a time, and then probably resell the chargers. Easier to resell, though, if a power supply is included, so that may limit me to buying chargers with included power supplies. Crazy that power supplies aren’t more commonly included, or at least offered as a simple add-on. But, thanks again, Igor! I love the resell idea.

[@drgeeforce1129]

remove the bottom screws before taking the top bars/side plate off that way the pack won't slip off like 00:25:10

[@jcools310]

Bravo to Igor, Prius Chat, and all the comments here. I have a few questions for anyone/Igor. I have 2005 Prius and while I could do this and it would be fun, I might prefer to buy a refurb battery and put it in myself. Questions: 1)I’m in NY ( Long Island) does anyone recommend a place that has refurbed batteries or will handle the install as well? 2)if I were to buy a refurbed battery or a full install, what can I ask them to show me the battery strength or know if they took all the proper steps? 3)The battery is 80lbs, does anyone know if ebay or ppl ship this item? 4)Does anyone have any tips/experience in buying a stand alone refurb battery OR tips/thoughts on a person/company that HAS done work for you? 5)Is there any other tips on how I might be able to get someone just to do the removal/install parts if I provided the battery? 6)Are there sites other than ebay to find a battery? if it ships and if I could verify any aspect of that battery before purchase 7)I love my Prius as much as anyone and I’m looking to buy a gen 3. Any tips on that in the north east or via auction? Again, thanks to Igor and everyone. The Prius community is awesome and in a weird way most of us love the Prius line for a lot of the same reasons. Maybe it’s low maintenance, the environment, or just sweet gas mileage. I can’t wait to jump to a slightly nicer gen 3. Thx so much

[@jimchang911]

Thank you, Very Thorough. Helped my Friend with an 2005 Gen 2. Worked like a charm. He is quite happy :-). PSA: make sure you guys with Smart Keys push in the switch under the steering wheel or it will not Start.

[@markpennella]

A button or a switch?

[@jimchang911]

@@markpennella Sorry, button

[@Cardano_yogi]

Thank you so much for the detailed step by step process. It was a great help in reconditioning my own battery🙏🏻

[@davedennis6042]

Good work man. This is done right and better than other test and swap videos I've seen.

[@guidobraun2920]

Perfect Video. I drive since 2016 a 2006 Lexus GS450H. Since 2016 i have 4 hybrid errors. 2 times i use the voltages testing. But since 2019 i use your capacity testing. The first test was 2019. Now the car is in 2021 down. And the modules lost from 2019 to 2021 over 450 mA/h. But run 2 years without error. Thanks to your video !!!!! At the moment i thing that NIHM batterys lost capacity when they get older. So please don`t by a hybrid car that is older then, let me say.. 12 years. I bay 1 Prius and one Auris battery to find good modules to bring my GS back on road. Did you see in your analysis also a curve in the capacity when you repair your car? I found that the first and the last modules in the battery most are better then the modules in the middle of the battery. But realy Thanks for your video. It bring me back on track do drive this good car. It is like a couch.. perfect for 48 old people ;-)

[@Luisjun91]

I already replace the bad battery cell and measured every battery cell and there all around 7.76 and 2 cells are 7.80. Would you recommend balancing them again and doing the process of discharging and charging them back up

[@cesarquinteiro8071]

In the minute 17:20 you say that you will configure fo 5.0 A to charge, but in the image it shows 3.0 A, What is the real value did you use for charge 3 A or 5 A? using one or other will affect to finally mAh value?

[@IgorKadulenkov]

It's up to you, but in general - the lower the better, as it will put less stress on the module, but it will take longer to complete 1 cycle. The higher the current, the more likely it is that the module will overheat and expand. I started at 3A and then increased to 5A(or 4A, not sure). I think, the most gentle charge rate would be 0.1 * 6.5A = 0.65A. I don't think it will affect the final capacity.

[@albinjoseph8456]

Hi Igor I dismantled the entire battery pack and replaced the bad cells. After that, I was trying to reconnect everything. While trying to reconnect the yellow connection harness(single piece) ,sparks flew off. This is the first time am facing the sparks from this battery. I have done this couple times and there were no sparks. But this time not sure what went wrong and I tried to reconnect the yellow connection harness and sparks flew again. Can anyone please suggest me a solution for this?

[@michael47lamb]

Great vid! And doing it in the winter and in the street makes it double awesome!

[@vineshkumar7435]

Thanks for the wonderful tutorial! I have a question Igor. I am having the Torque (paid) app. But i don't know how to add battery information (individual cell voltage info) in the real-time information stats (one that you are showing in video starting from 1:25). Can you please tell me how to add this? Is there a plugin that we have to install separately? Please guide me. Thanks!!

[@matiasbickel4491]

Its an OBD2 scanner. Make sure you get one that works for ios if you have iphone

[@hoomanyeganeh3598]

In settings -> Manage extra PIDs/Sensors Top right corner -> Add Predefined Set

[@cawag98]

@@matiasbickel4491 I don't believe there is a bluetooth OBDII scanner for Iphone yet - at least most of the generic/cheap ones only work with Android phones and tablets. Then connect Torque to that...

[@TexasTen]

Thank you so much for doing this, Igor! This is definitely the most thorough guide out there. I have used everything you provided to fix my Prius battery. I will be reinstalling it tomorrow. Wish me luck 🤞

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Good luck!

[@TexasTen]

@@IgorKadulenkov 7 months and 30,000 miles since I followed your guide, and my Prius battery pack is still running strong! I replaced 6 modules in total. Can you drop me your CashApp? I would love to thank you for helping me prolong my Prius battery. 200k miles and counting!

[@rangie944]

Scary watching you wave uninsulated screwdriver around. Apart from that this was the best start to finish video out there, thanks for posting so we may all learn more about EV'S.

[@GokameOnline]

this is the best video for charging the cells on your own! Great work!

[@shotakapanadze]

I am interested in such a situation, if we take 3 identical batteries, let's say they are all ideally 5000 milliamperes but charged at different voltages, for example 7.5v, 7.9v and 8.2v, if you run the recondintioning with the same parameters, will the device write similar results (I don't mean + - 10 and 20). It's like I noticed that the higher the voltage it starts testing, the more amperage it picks up, and that shouldn't be the case

[@qualmos]

Thank you for this very informative video. It's fantastic. I have One question. Since little more than 2 years has passed since you did this operation. How is the status for your hybrid battery today? I have a prius Gen 3. When using "DR PRIUS APP" it says that my status is 47% at the moment. This is after i have evened out the modules. In Juli 2020 i measured 65%. So i was little bit surprised getting that low rate after doing this even-out-operation. I did not balance the modules. i'll guess that i just can't skip this procedure.

[@saulcecena6293]

Hope ur channel grows its the best one i found so far

[@pixel_xo]

Is it possible to convert a ni mh battery pack to a li on battery pack on Toyota hybrids ?

[@alext8828]

Hey, a word to the wise; Dielectric grease is meant to be be applied right over the connection points. It will squeeze out when the connection is made. It's the clamping force that squeezes it out. Don't worry about the resistance. Use your ohmmeter to see the resistance is inconsequential. Also, check that there is good air flow coming out of the bottom duct. The air goes in thru the top of the battery and out from the bottom. The weather stripping gets destroyed and the housing leaks tons of air. That will not cool the batteries. Make sure the air flow coming out of the lower duct is solid before buttoning up.

[@baynzurh]

Hello, please tell me the name of the substance that cleans the battery

[@mustafanajm965]

Thank u for help my question how i can count from left to right or right to left 2007? Period please

[@miscbits6399]

if anyone's curious, the electrolyte leak from NiMH can be neutralised with a baking soda solution (this applies to leaking primary alkaline and ¨dry¨ cells too). It´s better to apply this before attempting to scrape off corrosion as it will make cleanup a breeze An ultrasonic cleaner makes cleaning small parts really easy

[@cdesoysa01]

This is by far the best and most comprehensive video I've seen anywhere, well done and thank you..... I do have a question though. At approx 32:13 minutes, you mention a better way of leveling the voltages. So are you saying literally connect all the positives together using a cable, then separately connect all the negatively together? Do I need to have a certain thickness of cable due to the increased voltage? Any advise would be gratefully received :)

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Thank you for the feedback! Yes, you need to connect all pluses together and then separately all minuses together, that will bring the voltages to the same level. Not sure what thickness you need, I would assume it can be similar to what you use for charging.

[@pavlob2]

So after you waited for 24hrs with all positives and negatives connected in parallel, did you have to discharge some modules with the charger? Thanks

[@IgorKadulenkov]

I have not done it this way, cause I would have needed to buy more wires. I just used the bulb. But others said it took them 6 to 24 hours to balance

[@alext8828]

The BMS leads that go to each module will have corrosion on the back surfaces that lie against each busbar. Don't neglect servicing them. Maybe some oxidizer on a Q-tip? I have to back and look at mine. I just kinda thought about that while watching this video.

[@cesarquinteiro8071]

Thank you very much @Igor Kadulenkov for the Video, I am now in the process to prepare one I got from scrap, then I can change the one in my car much quickly. Until now ( I process 12 modules) and I got values between 5454 and 6586 mAh of discharging, moslly over 6000 mAh, with that good values do you consider that is also necessary do a internal resistant test? I observ in the video that the #15 even that gots over 5400, you discard because was the worst in internal resistant test, by other hand you discard also #18 because has volts very low respect the others, In my case the #1 was even under 6 volts, after 3 cycling it gots 5891 mAh, In resumen is not mAh good values enough to consider that he module is in a good state? In the pass I mount a module that the internal resistance was very bad but after re-cycling It gots good values for mAh and until now is working fine in the car, Is not the re.cycling a way to recover modules , that are not so bad , Is true that other modules with bad internal resistance, never got good values in recycling .

[@KasraOskuie]

Hey Igor. I did all my settings exactly like you and almost everyone else on my charger. Did the exact same thing. However, I end up with 0000 for discharge and 3 digit numbers like 0106 to 0110 for charge for my capacity on all moduls. I check everything that I can think of. I just don't' get it. What do you think I'm doing wrong? What am I missing?

[@jimmyharris2006]

Igor, just wondering how how has it held up is still working okay

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hi Jimmy, 3 years, still going strong. No deterioration in any way.

[@jimmyharris2006]

Thanks igor for answering me

[@achiriu1987]

How long does it take to recondition (go through cycles)? Thank you

[@vasikholy4502]

Best prius video on KZbin - Well done!

[@Aurasex]

Thank you for this. Which OBD2 Scanner are you using to get the voltages of the cells?

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Any OBDII bluetooth reader would work with torque app for Android. You will need to download Prius profile for Torque app , then you will get all these additional parameters.

[@alejandrocg6914]

Hello! Great video and very informative, thank you so much; I’d like to know if it’s possible to get the OBD2 and the app that you use for it? I appreciate a lot your help with this video!

[@omaral-dulaimi4177]

Can I do discharge to charge because my multicharger only saves the last thing it does. So if it does discharge to charge it’ll only save the charge not the discharge value.

[@phil6296]

Great video. It’s been over a year since you’ve done this. Has the Prius battery held up since then? I’ve heard that only replacing a few battery cells doesn't get you many miles.But you seem like you’ve done everything properly.

[@AndysGeneral]

That's if you don't do the testing and conditioning steps he did

[@vitalys4029]

Уп

[@morr733]

Great video! Thanks for sharing. I have a 2 question, maybe possible tip for others. I have 3 chargers (imax rc6). In aim to save time I consider to do the following: Use chargers for charging only, discharge will be done with the hb4 bulbs (3) as mentioned. In that way I can save the time of the disharge. Question 1: any difference when discharging with bulb, comparing to charger usage (is it less effective?) Next thing :) , in aim to have three discharge->charge per cell: I think about doing 1 cycle on all the 28 cells, then second cycle, and eventually the third (last) , so instead of: 3 cycles * 28 cells * 1 iteration, I'll have: 1 cycle * 28 cells * 3 iterations. In that way I hope to prevent over hit of the cells (letting each one to" rest" befor next discharge-> charge). Question 2: Is it effective, good idea? Thanks again! Starting tomorrow 😀

[@ionut-cristianharnagea]

Hello. How was it in the end? Are you satisfied with the results?

[@morr733]

@@ionut-cristianharnagea Hi, Eventually I used the charger for discharging the cells. I've bought HTRC t240 duo. Excellent charger, 65$ from AliExpress, can discharge at 2amp. The reason is that I wanted to see the improvement in numbers, bulb can't reflect that. I managed to replace 3 cells and my car is working. Thanks.

[@jwhiz3219]

I see your voltage is a little over 8 Volts. my battery is over 8.6 volts. Is this too much?

[@אלעזרא-ק9ת]

I try to recharge the Toyota Prius hybrid battery 3 times but when it finishes recharging me once it hits an arrival message CAPA what it could be ?

[@nordintube]

i have an issue with the car, it only starts and works fine with a jump start,checked the Auxiliar battery and all the connection and all is fine to me, so I am really lost here, any advise.

[@gwernette5971]

Great Video. Thank you for sharing your experience. I very much wanted to see you start your Prius at the end with full bars :)

[@javiloguaixaic]

Hello with these setting on my first module i tried i get my module a little bit inflated. I see some people holding the module squeesed between to pieces of wood... If i squweeze it now it returns to its original size... Do i have to throw it? ... I set charge in auto 5.0 Amp like in the video and i observed 5 amps while charging, I expected 1 or 2 amp adjusting automatically but was 5 amp all the time... Maybe should I limit it to 2 amp charge? Thanks in advantadge

[@claudiagamino6499]

If I was to use these in solar, what should I set my charge controller to? Floating lead acid I use 14.5 volts but NIMH.?

[@viocaia]

May I? As long as they can go up to 16.8, little more often...14.5v like Lead will be ok, but no discharge lower than 1v/cell, that's minimum 12v limit! If you can set your solar charger to 1.4v/cell will be even better!

[@zap0808]

Hi Igor, very helpful video, thank you for your efforts. I am having some problems - I am using an IMAX B6 charger and did all the settings as per your instructions but I just can not seem to get through a full set of cycles and get any results from the device. I left the IMAX B6 to charge one cell for about 9-10 hours yesterday and the B6 had just frozen its screen. The battery cell had gotten warm and swollen, I turned everything off and the next day the cell had shrank. How do I use the IMAX B6 correctly?

[@cawag98]

The B6 chargers are known to often be fakes of the actual B6s, themselves copies of earlier chargers. I got one from a hobbyist and it was complete junk. I got another from Ebay new for $20 shipped, knowing it was a fake of a copy. It turned out to be mostly useful- the DSC level was 1.5A (higher than my multiport Turnigy charger DSC rate) but the darn thing refused to do more than one DSC->CHG cycle. If you're going to use these chargers you need to become familiar with the strange menus/button presses in them. Some of the settings are under User Settings menu and some of the settings are under the Battery [Nimh] menu. If you can buy a multiport charger that allows high rate DSC values. The Turnigy 4x6s helped me a lot, but you wait FOREVER with only .5 DSC rate (although it claims up to 3A...)

[@gregdrmax]

Igor, 4 yrs later how is this battery pack doing? How many miles on this car? Thx and great video

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hello, I sold the car this year, 5 years later with 238K miles or so. There was not a single issue with the battery or any signs of deterioration, even when rarely driven and parked outside in the winter. Technique from this video had proven to be very effective to me. I am glad that I saved so much money and I would recommend this DIY project to anyone

[@donberlin3835]

Thanks Igor for the great video. It allowed me to get my prius 05 back on the road. Your video was very good.

[@hossenbaccuswakeel3189]

BEST VIDEO ON KZbin SOO FAR.what app are you using ???

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Thank you! I use Adobe Premiere

[@Christian-lt7wd]

Do you know why you could get a low reading from cell 24 & 25 on one side off the block facing you but the opposite side shows almost 16 volts. Its right before the breaker switch connector. Or 4 th and 5th from the ecu left to right. ??

[@fazbari3187]

Hi is normal for a cell to start sizzling a little after 30mins, how do you know when a cell is fully charged , my IMAX b6ac charger seems to go past 8.4v , when do I know its fully charged , or will it auto stop

[@ETPAK]

2005 prius was parked for 3 years. is there any way to charge up the hybrid battery? please help me on this issue. thnx

[@fussguss3011]

Is there anything else I can use to do the discharge/charge test if I don’t have the multi battery charge do-dad?

[@saadhaider7407]

Dear igor. Needless to say you have done the perfect job and addressed even the very minute but crucial information. However, at the very end you said you can balance charge by doing so n so... I seek your guidance in that active bottom balancing for all those 20 cells combined. Also in your sheet you marked module 15 as poor i which was a mistake i guess.

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Thank you Saad. Module #15 failed the internal resistance test. It was in the top of the resistance test list as the weakest. It was in the middle of the pack as well. Sorry not sure if I understand your question about the balancing.

[@saadhaider7407]

@@IgorKadulenkov my question is after doing resistance test and doing charge-discharge cycle there is another step to balance charge entire battery pack. Means all of the modul are at equal level of charge. This process is usually done by active balancing method using a balancing board. I need your help if you have any idea of this. I am starting a battery reconditioning service workshop and you deserve a portion of royalty from that earning. Share with me your email address please.

[@richard7059]

@@saadhaider7407how is your business going. I am very interested in learning how to do this and start my own business rebuilding hybrid batteries

[@z-collector7518]

I don't understand why you used vinegar combined with backing soda. One neutralizes the other to my knowledge. Please explain.

[@bobk9412]

Igor Bought 7 mods from ebay. cycled 5 so far. Discharge capacity for 3 cycles. Mod1= 1374 1534 1440 Mod2= 1962 1920 1885 mod3= 3804 497 806 mod7= 1708 2285 423 mod8= 2642 2547 1656. Ever seen anything like mod3 mod7?

[@IgorKadulenkov]

These seem really low , they probably pretty old. You may keep trying or just return them maybe ?

[@Michael_L_]

This was fantastic! Now I know what my options are once my 2008 needs battery work.

[@edwinbab705]

Dr prius shows prius 2013 temp3 high aroind 114 degree shall i move cells and tempnthree is that near fan?

[@kslats916]

Won't the capacity numbers change depending on what discharge voltage you use? Discharging to say, 6.00V should offer a higher capacity than 6.30V. This makes the no / no go decision a bit blurry.

[@Dreamers5736]

Hi Igor, Why blade voltage reduced when all other values (Pack voltage, IR, Block voltage) remain same. Same car after 7 months. Blade voltage shows now under 3.0v whereas 7 months ago it was 3.65v . But Pack voltage and IR remain same as before. As well as minimum block voltage is more than its nominal voltage 25.2v. Any explanation?

[@michaelguenther8397]

At 16:49 you are using a 12VDC Car Battery, then at 17:00 you are using the HP DPS-600PB B 575W Power Supply. Is the battery used to buffer the varying current drain or can you use the HP direct and alone?

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Please ignore the 12v battery setup. I tried to use the 12v battery and a 12v charger while I was waiting for the power source to be delivered. It didn’t work, but I already filmed that part of the video , so I included it

[@vitautoff]

Hi, Igor! Hi did you connect the power supply? I just got one from ebay and there is 5v and 9v, none of the contacts give 12v Is there a jumper somewhere to enable 12 v?

[@abouyusef]

@@vitautoff here is a link that explains which pins need to be shorted together in order for the power supply to provide the 12 volts So if we are connecting the jumpers it would look like this on a DPS-600PB.....(X represents the pins we want to short out or "JUMP" ) 0 0 0 X 0 X 0 X 0 X 0 0 www.dronevibes.com/forums/threads/power-supply-for-chargers-dps-600pb-you-can-do-it.17055/

[@AlanEdlund]

I have tried doing this to 3 cells and had the opposite results to your video each time. Each cell had 3 cycles of C

[@mike75479]

Does it really matter the voltage number you put on excel? Do I have to put the voltage of the cell before stating the proces of discharging

[@ssj22vuofficial]

When you discharge and charge cycles, is that like when sellers online refer to as "reconditioning? the cells?

[@derekhougland3750]

How long does the full process take on average? This question does not include removing battery / installing battery in car.

[@IgorKadulenkov]

At least a week or about 10 days for me, because I had to order additional modules

[@徐博洋-d4l]

Hi, I used IMAX B6AC chargers and the same discharge/charge settings. But my modules can not be discharged to 6.0V which is said to be necessary for fully discharging. My charger reads “DRY” at about 6.5V and stopped the discharge. And my modules discharge about only 3000mAh, but they can be charged in 7500mAh until auto cut-off. What do you think is the problem for my modules? Are the numbers I get correct? Thank you so much in advance! :) I really need some help.

[@carlosgomez3886]

Thanks for posting this. You've helped alot of us to save money and learn

[@tigersnigel]

would balance charging at a say 2-3amps instead of 5 would be as effective in restoring capacity of a cell? just thinking that if I have the time to cycle the cells slower it would be nice to reduce heat and potential swelling of the cells

[@IgorKadulenkov]

It would definitely be as or even more effective, less stress on modules, less heat.

[@ThetaPower]

Igor, would it be possible to charge and discharge all blocks simultaneously with lower charging amps? In other words, in your opinion, would this be possible and not overheat the blocks? My thought is to use 7 Turnigy Quads with 7 HP power supplies (or the equivalent)?

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hi John, I think it is possible. The best charging rate would be 0.75 amps for a module. At this rate they should not overheat or expand. You could try to raise it higher, maybe to 1.5-2 amps and run a single module to try it. I would still discharge at highest rate your charger can do (usually 2-3 amps). Also, if you going to use the same power supply as I did, you will probably need only one. It can handle 40-45 amps. It should handle all blocks simultaneously 1.5amps X 28 = 42

[@ThetaPower]

Thank you Igor

[@pavlob2]

I wonder how much longer it will take to go through 3 cycles at ~1A charging current

[@cybcarr]

Hi Guys! Do you have any information about where can i buy a smiliar charger in Europe, like that, which Igor used in the video? @16:56 ?

[@IgorKadulenkov]

Hello, I would check Hobbyking.com . I am sure they ship to Europe, they have European warehouses. People saying good things about Reaktor chargers , they’re more expensive, but you could sell it after, perhaps hobbyking.com/en_us/turbo-charger-1200w-4-300w-synchronous-balance-charger-discharger-version-2.html Or you could try some other hobby charger

[@cybcarr]

@@IgorKadulenkov Thank you. I'll take a look. :)

[@cybcarr]

@@IgorKadulenkov There were the rewievs, and some said its not that good as yours, and also some minor disadvantages, so started to look after similar products. In my case the hobbyking stuff is too expensive, but found a similar: Ultra Power UP100AC DUO 100W on banggood. not 4, only 2 ports available, but 1/3 the price approx. on youtube found some reviews. but, in my country there is a guy, who renews prius batteries for that ~100$ price, ( check hybrid system on google maps in budapest area) and does the cleaning too for the tipical prius odour, and stuff like that. :) respect Igor! :)

[@tangytea8452]

is there a guide on how to connect the turnigy charger and the multicharger with the car battery? also is it necessary to have a car battery and a power supply? Thank you very much

[@IgorKadulenkov]

It's pretty straightforward. You need to get a set of clamps and male banana plugs, then build 2 charging wires per charging port. Then you just connect + and - on charger port with + and - on single battery module. You don't need the car battery. I've used it while I was waiting for power supply to be delivered.

[@ras52017]

@igor Kadulenkov Thank you very much for this detail video. Very informative for newbies like my self. Can you please explain how one can tell if the charging or discharging is complete for a cycle. I am using the imax B6AC v2 and just following your settings. it just keeps changing from discharge to charge or charge to discharge. But how can I tell if cycle 1,2 or 3 is completed. I have my setting on discharge/charge 3 cycle. After over 6 hours, I press on stop and I only see the reading CH1 5866mAH, DISC 1- 4366 mAH, CH2 6975 mAH, DISC 2- 4645 mAH, CH3 0000 mAH, DISC 3 - 417 mAH Working on a prius hv battery

[@mohmedrabih5830]

Please were can I get the wire Load. Thanks

[@georgegermisashvili9338]

Igor, Thank You so much for Best video in Internet!!!! It helps to save a lot of time and money!!!!