Hydraulic Cylinder Repair Part 1

[@CheetosMUFUKKA]

I’m glad I found your channel. Just got hired at a shop that services and repairs cylinders of all sizes. I’m going to be a trainee and I can tell your videos will help me a lot.

[@jamesjohnson4982]

Adam Great info, I have a man lift with leaking hydraulics, will use your information to make the repair. Have never been afraid of working on something new, but have never worked on hydraulics before. Your machining knowledge is fantastic, We need more people who have this ability, your channel will help. I work with high school students (not a teacher), and will have them watch.

[@popps48]

Glad to see this video. Long time ago I worked for a machine shop that built hydraulic cylinders. This brings back lots of memories. Wish I would have stayed with it. Loved the work. Thanks.

[@eddiekawecki2510]

I like the hyd rebuild videos, nice job. Many times in the field when a cyl. rod would get gouged but still straight and not leaking I would clean up and grind out the damaged area and fill it with an epoxy product called Belzona to keep things running without damaging the seals till we could shut the machine down to repair it properly . Many times the repairs lasted for years like the side shift cyls. on the blade of a grader that didn't see a lot of use. Just reminiscing about day gone by. Thanks, Ed K. Cleve. Oh.

[@vastylebbq5203]

Great work as always Adam. I would be very interested to hear you talk about the measuring process and procuring the seals. Your a great communicator and I'm sure others would appreciate it as well. Thanks for your hard work on this great channel.

[@taxedtodeath3610]

I find it so amazing that you can make threads like that. One would think it could only be done with one pass or with a die, multiple passes seems like it would cross thread or try to make new threads in a different spot each time...especially since it is at high speed like that, crazily amazing!

[@jodysanders1111]

Great job. I like the idea of doing my own work. But a machine like that would set you back a couple of dollars,not to mention training. Very informative,knowledge,and skills. Looking forward to part 2.

[@karlknapstein4250]

Craftsmen like you helps make a great America! Thanks for sharing!!

[@nineringsh]

I've enjoyed watching you grow in your presentation on camera. Your workmanlike production of videos is impressive. Thank you for all your effort. Always look forward to ABomb Saturdays!

[@peterjones6945]

I like your vids, reminds me of stuff I used to do. THis takes me back to when I worked for CBL Ltd. They never had a machinist working for them before and were sending cylinders out for repair until I came along. Saved them £170.00 a time (in 1996 in Britain) Mini excavators get severely abused, I spent a lot of time repairing them (Site Service Engineer sounds a lot better than the reality-LOL) Oh, 9.3 thousandths isn't a measurement (even though I know what you mean) should have said just over 9 or more accurately 93 ten-thousandths (Semantics, can't help it I'm British)

[@blacklabrador1580]

I can tell you have been doing this for while, as you make it look real easy. Nice video.

[@AlwaysHopeful87]

Manual lathes are amazing machines. Great workmanship too!

[@eddiekawecki2510]

Thank you for the video. Just used it for a refresher because I am doing the same repair and rod fab as you for my son's BH stabilizer cylinders. Ed.

[@krzykris]

As a metallurgist, machine work fascinates me. I wish I could have been a helper when I was young.

[@mannycalavera121]

Love the hydraulic videos because it's something i don't really have much exposure too. Always good to learn a new aspect of the trade.

[@Abom79]

+Manny Calavera Thanks. I'll show all the work I had to complete on this unit for a repair, something anyone with a workshop and proper tools can do themselves.

[@mute8s]

It always blows my mind on how little damage will cause a problem and the environments that these machines work in. They are tough. It must have been hit pretty hard to give the gouges in the rod that we see here. Great video.

[@goltzhar]

Great video, Nice to see a guy on youtube who actually knows he's stuff..

[@chevy1986]

It's awesome how u make everything look so easy man.

[@jlucasound]

You are a master. I know because you say, "I will have to check that to be sure..". The book smart engineers can give you mathematical figures all day long. Men like you, know how to do it. Let's get the job done and then we can give you the equations later. We see it in our minds eye. Some of the best cannot even describe what they are doing or what they "see". They just do it and they are really good at what they do. Articulation is in your favor. You are so good, Abom79.

[@philliphall5198]

Thank you for the information on the parts and stock rods

[@samuelluiscontreras6656]

Awesome job man. So satisfying seeing this.

[@richkellow1535]

Excellent close up photography Adam.

[@Abom79]

Thanks

[@roberthorner8494]

THAT WAS A VERY LEARNING VIDEO FOR ME. THANKS ADAM.

[@oksydeslidahs285]

love your vids abom! i see alot of these seal failures at work on my dozers, diggers especially as i work in a hard rock quarry. forever change seal packages hahahahah

[@MrADVANCEDTEK]

You mentioned using oil for a better surface finish when threading, where are you setting the insert height? Or would it even matter in this case? I see a lot of different thread pitches but no one talks thread depth or the different types used for stronger load hold. I used to measure my thread depth and thread hole to within .002" that way there's less movement when it bolts together. I just like that feel when I'm hand fitting them together plus I feel the load is not tilting the nut to one side there by giving me the biggest nut to surface contact spreading the load.

[@tobyw9573]

My floor jacks have just a slot in the gland intended for use in a press or with a jig. I think I will drill some holes for a big face spanner I may have to fabricate. Sorry for the double posting in part 2, the iPad KZbin app locked up and did not appear to have posted it until I rebooted.

[@crcdistribution878]

Another supplier of hydraulic rod and tube is CRC Distribution in Robertsdale, Alabama. They have cylinder components and seals too.

[@terryschramm9904]

Man you are good. When I grow up I wanna be just like you, only better looking.

[@lorenlieder9789]

Good project Adam and nice video.

[@vreppeto]

Could you turn the shaft down to eliminate the scoring then make a new gland to match? Would it save any time or money? How much?

[@marshallbell9354]

Awesome video - would love to get pricing on having you repair the tilt cylinder on my Cat 252B skid steer. Some of the chrome on the rod has come off and messed up the seals and it’s leaking.

[@ericlakota6512]

Where do you get the seels and o rings ? I have old case dozzer that need fixen i cant get the seels by case part # on line

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

Nice job! What would cause the rod to be so badly scratched?

[@hermanwulf6677]

Can you repair gouges in the rod by welding or spray welding, and then turning it smooth?

[@mackerr6914]

Adam, when you are describing the scratches on the shaft there is definite audio overloading and distortion. It's still there as you are describing the seal right after. Is there a way on your camera to adjust the audio level down a little?

[@Abom79]

+Mac Kerr Actualy I think I may have found a fix to that problem. The Audio is perfectly fine from the camera and mic, it's after rendering that its distorted. I rendered my next video last night with a different format and it seems to be good.

[@johansalusse6985]

maybe try to modify yoursettings (ONLY ONE T???)ON YOUR SOUND SYSTEM??? OR DON'PLAY IT LOUD...too much.

[@mackerr6914]

John, I have been a professional sound and recording engineer for the past 40 years. The distortion is not on my end. There are many places throughout the audio production chain where distortion can happen, stopping it at the source is the only cure. Adam seems to have found the source.

[@wolfgangtaferner3576]

Heyyy very nice projekt....why do you use hard jaws on a piston rod? Than you make again scratches in the piston rod.....i use only soft jaws.

[@Abom79]

+Wolfgang Taferner If you use the right type of jaws and the right torque it won't damage the chrome. I do this everyday. Some chucks have deep serrated jaws though and those you must use soft pads to protect it.

[@wolfgangtaferner3576]

Ahh ok also those one are hard jaws with the right diameter? I have didnt seen such type of jaws....i m too a turner and i make from time to time cylinders. But its intressting to see, how many ways there are to make those piston rods. I know how easely scratches happen. XD XD -_-' than you can throw it in the next scrap container.... XD

[@hemiram05]

Another great video Adam. I wish you would've mentioned something about your method of threading without a relief cut. Very nice job. Good luck on the 4 jaw at the bash. 👍

[@mrfrankbosh]

Very nice, thank you for sharing.

[@specforged5651]

How come you don’t do a little undercut these threads run into like you do on many others?

[@aserta]

I wonder if you could clean those gouges, burn them a bit to get any contaminants out, then put some kind of metal based resin (i used one once to glue an very, very old lamp, it contained brass particulates). I mean, in theory, since it's such a small area, it will never wear (not significantly) and at the same time, it will help keep pressure when the seal comes over. PLUS, that way no dust or crud can get back in the hole, and won't further score, or damage the seals. Compared to machining the whole thing, on the cheap, if it would work, that'd be a great quick fix.

[@Abom79]

+aserta A quick fix like that is to use epoxy. I'm sure some other metal bases epoxy would work just the same.

[@advance9572]

Great video. I used the same material for the cross head pump on my steam engine.

[@armelind]

To cheaply or quickly get someone going, you wouldnt do the spray metal technique? Take it down below scratches and build it back up? Just wondering. Talking about Fernandos hydraulic cylinders.

[@jonka1]

@9:22 after showing us how to slide the rod into the chuck without scratching it I waited for you to use soft metal to grip it but it didn't happen. Did the jaws not mark the surface?

[@tobyw9573]

Abom discusses machining new rod which is just the thing we need to drive down prices of a new cylinder. I'm getting ready to rebuild a pair of 30 year-old floor jacks since they raise higher and go lower than the nice aluminum HF ones. Where can I buy reasonably priced kits?

[@LordOfTamarac]

Hey Adam, total hydraulic novice here with a potentially ignorant question. If there are dings in the rod can they be filled with weld then taken flush? Would the heat needed to get good penetration warp then rod?

[@Abom79]

+Mike Strohofer I remember repairing hydraulic rods in my younger days where we had to TIG weld the gouges and scratches and machine them down. Shouldn't have much worry of warping.

[@LordOfTamarac]

Abom79 In this application you wound up making a new shaft for your client. What I was wondering is why go that route as opposed to doing something like building the shaft up in the low areas and re-machining and polishing. It seems like that would be a less expensive option intuitively, but I could be completely wrong!

[@Abom79]

Cases like welding up scratches or gouges would be a rod that is expensive and hard to replace, or the material is not available right away and the customer needs to be operating. A weld surface is not hard like the chrome and it's easily scratched. Another problem is that often times the rod may have a slight warp or bend to them from being used which is hard to true up for turning.

[@LordOfTamarac]

Abom79 that makes a lot of sense. Hey man thank you so much for all the content you put out there and the effort you go to in responding to the KZbin community. As someone getting interested in machining as a hobby I wouldn't be doing it if it wasn't for you and the other guys on KZbin.

[@bobsue3639]

i use thin brass strips between the jaws and stock, works really good.

[@Wolfeslayer]

i use emery cloth cloth towards the shaft

[@charliecziryak1940]

What was this cylinder off of what kinda tractor and what did it do thanks

[@momobadilak]

question: on the original rod with the dings in it - would it be an option fill the dings with a couple passes with a welder then machine them back down on a lathe? ..or is there something inherently wrong with that approach, for instance, the welding heat would weaken the part ..or something else? thanks - love the channel.

[@SynchroScore]

There are two reasons why that would be difficult. The first is the welding heat; welding just in one area of a shaft can cause it to bend. The other is that a hydraulic piston rod must be ground, not just turned on a lathe, as the rod gland needs a very smooth surface to seal against. And any hydraulic rod must be chrome-plated; the weld would rust, eventually.

[@jimaton58]

If the rod is not fully in the cylinder the leak increases. What does it means?

[@richardtownes1350]

Hey Adam, a have a question on my cylinder rebuild. I'm rebuilding a 3 5/8 diameter mast cylinder on a Hyster H100XM. It is pressure in gravity down. The problem I'm having is trying to get the shaft back in the tube. Its like its vapor locked or something. I Had to use a come along on it to get it down the 4 inches its moved. I wouldn't think there would be a check valve. Any help would be appreciated.

[@bobandres5559]

Hey Adam, could you spray weld over the scratches then bring it back to size in the lathe? Or is that too much trouble for the money.

[@Abom79]

It's a patch job and for a rod that's easily replaced, no need it fixing it that way.

[@messenger8279]

Surely if the run out on that shaft before machining is 1, thousandth at the end and then close to the chuck. It must be the chuck running out ?

[@overboostn]

If you have time in one video, can you explain how you figure out and set up the lathe to cut the threads? Complete layman here, just interested in the process. Thanks

[@SierraMike396]

I’ve got a small farm mini excavator that has a cylinder with gouges, if I wanted to find a shop near me (or you, I’m about an hour from Tuscaloosa) I would love some advice on getting a replacement rod or sending off that cylinder

[@jerrylong381]

Hi Adam, Could you tell me what insert you are using for turning. I have a hard time getting a good finish on chrome rod. I have been using a CPGT with .015" radius, that gets a good finish when pushed, but on light cuts not so much. I am using a neg tool holder.

[@Abom79]

Jerry Long I use an ISCAR wnmg 431 ic 8250 TF on this job. At work I use the same only in CNMG shape.

[@jerrylong381]

Abom79 Thanks Adam, I'll give them a try.

[@jjs4x]

Abom79 what does the IC 8250 TF sand for Adam?

[@eddiekawecki2510]

Just Google IC 8250 TF

[@jerrycoleman2610]

Adam, really enjoyed your video thanks for sharing.!.!.!.

[@braddles345]

Great video as usual! Also, like the new intro and outro music

[@mustaphawahbeh]

kzbin.info/door/_GbYSHgKJL3g4J1aZ-RBSA

[@tszabon]

hi Adam, how do you manage to stop the tool that makes the thread in the same distance from the front face? is it possible to set the lenght of thread on your machine or you have to turn off the feed manually? I am just begginer.

[@DSCKy]

It's all timing and coordination (aka skill) on most manual machines. He's threading at a pretty fast speed... you can go a lot slower as a beginner.

[@TheMetalButcher]

You wouldn't want to do that with no relief groove. He is manually retracting the cross-slide when he sees it clear the hit the end of the thread.

[@DSCKy]

You could do it without a relief, but I guess it isn't a great idea. You could set a travel dial to 0 at the stop point and stop it as close to 0 without going past 0. You'd end up with a semi v shaped groove when done. You can also start on 0 and cut the threads away from the chuck...

[@normbarr2894]

OK im new to leaving a coment but wondering I have seen you turn down many shafts than them build them back up so why not turn that shaft down and build it back up and turn it to size??

[@Abom79]

+norm barr It's must easier and faster to machine a new rod and replace it all together. Welding the shaft won't give it the surface the same hardness as chrome.

[@BluesDoctor]

Not sure which lathe that is, but really sounded nice and quiet. Is that new bearings on the spindle? Great video as always.

[@TheMetalButcher]

How do you cut the case hardened Rod? I ruined a power-hacksaw blade in about 1 second on a chrome bar. Also, 13:49, man did you stop that perfectly.

[@myfriendhenry1]

Awesome. Thanks for the quick education!

[@jimtaylor248]

Can your cost effectively chrome the rod?

[@crcdistribution878]

We sell replacement chrome-plated piston rods by the inch.

[@BigMikeOregon]

Don't the chuck jaws mar the chrome finish? I didn't see brass jaw covers, so I'm curious.

[@Abom79]

+BigMikeOregon They can mar the chrome if your not careful. Depends on the type of jaws being used and how much pressure is applied.

[@billdlv]

Looks good Adam, good to hear your thoughts on feed rates.

[@thecargotsold]

Where are you located.. i have a cylinder from my roll back that is leaking. Do you do out of state work?

[@fixpaana]

I am new at this so please excuse me if I sound dumb. When you say chrome bar you mean a steel bar that's hardchrome plated right?

[@OC3OliverFan]

I have a hydraulic cylinder is really stuck together how would you get it apart

[@ShawnAndera]

Hey Adam. I work on John Deere Ag equipment for a living and have re-sealed many hydraulic cylinders. I have seen the ends of the rods broken off before and I don't recall ever seeing a set screw or roll pin in the end of the rod. What is the purpose of the set screw or roll pin that you mentioned?

[@WeirdHarold49]

A definitive answer should be in part 2 when he reassembles the cylinder. A SWAG is that with the rod and the rod-end both drilled an tapped in the center, a set-screw or pin will hold the rod-end in the proper position for welding without a complicated clamping arrangement.

[@Abom79]

It's to help with holding the parts together nice and square for welding and fixturing. Just makes the job easier. Sometimes I just machine a small nub on the end to help hold the eye center for tacking it on.

[@ogreunderbridge5204]

Would it be any good to weld damages and machine a new surface on a true rod ? I've got one with rust cavities on the most outer part messing up top seals and wiper

[@crcdistribution878]

You could buy a replacement chrome rod. We cut them to any size you want and sell them on our website.

[@shahzadkhan-hj7qx]

Hydraulic Cylider Repairing Very Deficolt Adam

[@tonybrock5288]

I'm not sure if I missed any comments etc. but surely the first questions should be about what caused the damage in the first place, and therefore how do we make sure it doesn't happen again, before we go about deciding how to fix it? We need to fix the cause first.

[@tonybrock5288]

Yes: the Engineers in us want to fix things, the Entrepreneurs in us want to bill for things but the System's Thinkers want to find out what's really going on... "Today's solutions will cause tomorrow's problems"...

[@roscocsa]

I've seen people hang off a 10' cheater while others heated and beat the cap off a jacked up ram from a dump truck. Hard work.

[@Abom79]

roscocsa We have our bad candidates in the shop. Sometimes no amount of heat and beating will will them apart. When a threads galls, time to cut it apart.

[@roscocsa]

Stuff like that makes me glad I sit at a desk for a living now. Sometimes. To be fair I was working in a really really reeeeaaalllly low end shop. So 90% of the day was grease and coal dust up to your elbows, sledgehammers, and cranes with broken brakes.

[@VinceCiotti]

Do you typically machine threads without a relief? Is one way harder than another? Thanks for all the great videos!

[@Abom79]

Vince Ciotti I do then both ways. Without a relief is just a bit faster because your eliminating one op, but you have to watch it closely and disengage at the right time each pass. If you use a mag base indicator on the ways you can watch the indicator and back out in the same place a bit easier.

[@pltmann]

What is the name of the Spanner wrench . Sounded like Fitman R . Couldn't find info online for that name . Thanks Dave

[@hishamchohan494]

David Mann I have one too ,its a Gedore ,caliper face spanner adjustable

[@zlindauer5315]

how many rods have you ruined learning how to make threading look so easy? nice video sir!

[@hidromecanicayconstruccion2599]

EMIDIO DE VENEZUELA GREETINGS WHAT TYPE OF AXIS IS USED FOR HYDRAULICS

[@cwmayes1580]

what was the purpose of the 1/4 bolt cut off in the end? i missed that part

[@tridium-go6hw]

I bet Adam is going to use it to thread the rod end on to hold it centered prior to welding.

[@johnburke7253]

Adam; good video again. Hey, I noticed you have an Enco tool post . I just bought a Harrison M300 lathe and it came with a Klopfer tool post. This seems to be identical to your Enco. I am looking for a supplier for the tool holders. Who are using to source your tool holders? Anyone out there with the same problem, the 40 position Multifix tool posts are great but who supplies the tool holders?

[@BabuBhai-zx3cr]

John BURKE

[@redbutler751]

Can anyone tell me precisely what type of metall that rod is probably made of? And where to buy a rod with perfectly round circle (apart from scott industries) Thx so much! (Is it cromoly?)

[@Apollo1van]

I hve 855 JD lift cylinder gland nut cannot get loose have removed set screw any ideas will not move have made wrench with teeth wrench bent any ideas

[@JF32304]

Nicely done! I'm still amazed at thread cutting on a lathe, how do you get the timing correct? I know with CNC it's timed perfectly but on a manual system I have no idea.

[@tinker453]

Love your videos! thanx for sharing

[@hellomarlo]

Love your hydraulic videos! Very well produced and informative. If you need another supplier for rod and tube, look up a company in Alabama called CRC Distribution. They also sell seals and custom machined seals. Subscribed now so I'll catch the rest of your videos! :)

[@Abom79]

They’re a 45 minutes drive from me. We use them often.

[@tridium-go6hw]

Hey Adam, nice work as usual. Do you have any idea if Scot Industries will sell cut off lengths of chrome rod to individuals? I'm not too far from one of their locations.

[@Abom79]

+tridium6111 I know they do sell cut lengths of everything. Might have to call and ask.

[@craigkeller]

Great set of skills!

[@unknownium275]

What does rod stock cost approximately

[@powerbuilder0510]

This a prime example of when to and when not to. Unless they are damaged beyond repair they can be gouged with an angle grinder to make somewhere for weld to go and hit with a chrome-moly stick electrode and ground back and polished and look as good as new and call it repaired. like its only takes a moment of your time on an angle grinder gouge out the places needing repair, wipe it over with some thinners and clean the oil off, hit it with your chrome-moly stick electrode/s, grind and polish it and call it good enough. on a side note hard facing stick electrodes for repairing earth moving equipment among other things, they have a very high chrome and molybdenum for hardness and abrasion resistance and are ideal for said chrome rod in hydraulic cylinder. just dont go lifting your helmet up straight away to see your good job you just done the slag pops off very quickly after a weld and can jump in your eye very easy even like 2 - 3 feet away!!! ...

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

I wish I could send you the bucket tip cylinder on my Kubota BX... at full extension, the rod can 'wobble' a few degrees.. the bushing needs to be longer. At least it does not leak and the shaft is smooth... So far its just the rod gland that should be longer and carry a longer bushing to support the rod. Oh well, we are about as far apart as we can get and still be in the USA. One day I will probably have to just buy a new one.

[@DSCKy]

The bushing sounds like a small part... ship it to him?

[@Abom79]

+Jennifer WhiteWolf Sounds like the original rod gland is worn and needs to be either bushed or bore and install a wear band. As long as the gland and position are the correct fits it should be working as designed.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Abom79 As a low cost tractor, I am guessing there is either a plastic bushing insert, or perhaps none..just using the material itself as bearing surface. I am now careful to use the tip at less angle to not go to end of stroke as often. This autumn I will pull the cylinder. In the meantime i can buy the rod gland rotating tool I need and a seal/o ring kit. I learn SO much from your vids, really appreciate your training! This cylinder take down and rebuild video is a perfect example.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Abom79 Also really enjoy the food vids! I now subscribe to several BBQ channels thanks to your introductions!

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

DSCKy This fall i will pull it apart. I know how now! If it needs machine work I will ask Adam if I can send it to him.. Given the nature of loading on the cylinder, if the gland were longer, with more bush area between wiper and seal, it would be much better. There is still some rod length available when fully retracted, so it could theoretically be a longer gland for better support at full extension.

[@kennyprehn7115]

Hi Adam, was wondering what gloves (orange) your wearing.

[@kennyprehn7115]

Enjoyed the video as usual 🍻

[@Abom79]

+Kenny Prehn They are made by Gloveworks. Work sells them and we all use them there too. I meant to show them on video before.

[@kennyprehn7115]

Abom79 Thank you bud! I'm a mechanic and usually use diamond grip or raven but like the grip texture on those. For sure will give em a try. Take care!

[@Shockedbywater]

Thank you for the videos.

[@DoRC]

I'm glad he decided to go with a new rod. That old one is junk.

[@dentedrobot635]

Love the vids abomb. How long would this whole job normally take once it's on the bench off the machine? Thanks.

[@Abom79]

Dented Robot it all depends on what all has to be done.

[@robert574]

Hope you're still reading these... How are you backing off that threading tool so fast? Good video by the way.

[@stevesprouse2388]

Could you metalize the rod and then turn it down?

[@Abom79]

+Steve Sprouse They say you can but I have never tried it on a hydraulic cylinder rod.

[@OldSneelock]

Steve Sprouse I worked as the Manufacturing Manager at Douglas Corporation in Tekonsha, MI from 1992 to 1994. We did a lot of flame spraying with 420 stainless, bronze, and Diamond Jet carbide. The flame spray will work. But for a hydraulic cylinder replacing the rod is more cost effective. 420 stainless was $25.00 per square inch. Diamond jet which is much stronger was $100.00 per square inch. If it was a part that had a unique shape or size that wasn't easily found we would have the shaft hard chromed and we ground it back. You can buy Thompson rod for much less than the material and labor to repair the shaft. If it was my cylinder I would first look for a used replacement. Failing that I would check price from a dealer against having one fabbed up. Not knocking Abom or anyone else. Time costs money and machine shop time is not cheap.

[@eddiekawecki2510]

I believe Adam is doing it for a good friend so I am sure they trade off labor. I am doing the same right now for my son's BH stabilizer cyl. new rod. Price of 1-1/2"1045 induction hardened chrome rod 30" lg. was $35 and my labor is priceless but free to him so it is much cheaper this way if you can do it. Hyd. shop quoted 3 hours labor@$85 per hour with me doing the welding of the end. New for this older ARPS backhoe was not available. Total $ for our rebuild, rod, seals, shipping not counting my labor is $95. So I feel Adam's job for a friend and mine was a quality, justified and inexpensive way to go. By the way, I did it at home on my Atlas/Craftsman 12"x4' lathe. Just my opinion. Thanks, Ed

[@drubradley8821]

That was a good show again

[@oliverdenniss557]

Quite surprised you didn't use any packing for the chuck jaws. Hardened jaws on a chrome rod. Any damage from them and you are back to square one. But good accuracy from the chuck. I use some ally strip's between the rod and jaw :)

[@Abom79]

+Cnc Appreciator I machine chrome rod everyday and know how not to scratch it. The smooth jaws are safe unless you get stupid with the cuts. The deep serrated jaws do needs pads between them and the work though.

[@StreuB1]

I am not surprised Fernando went with a new rod. He knows hes got one of the best working on it and that cylinder will be better than new once you're done with it. Side note, what is Fernando that you rebuilt those two red cylinders for many months ago or was that another buddy?? I can't recall. Going to be a fun little series again! Thanks Adam! Side note as well, I am impressed with that chuck Shars sent you. How are those calipers holding up? I am thinking about picking a pair up.

[@Abom79]

+Brian Streufert Yes it's the same Fernando. He has 4 tractors and other pieces of equipment. You could consider him my step dad even though he and mom aren't married. He's always there to help me when I need it and safe for me. Example, I recently had to do some remodel/repair on my patio and he let me borrow his large dump trailer which was perfect for hauling off all the debris. This repair is my payback for that. The chuck is doing good so far, but we need more time to see how well it maintained. The Aventor calipers have been great! No problems, smooth silky feel.

[@nocarebear8301]

I think some states have outlawed oil dry because of dust. I think Arkansas being one of the states.

[@goodboyringo9716]

Great job on machining . A great way to make money too.