I 3D Printed a $13,238.95 Camera Arm (Again)

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[@AW_DIY_garage]

Do I need this. No. Did I think about buying the plans just to have, yes. Did I watch this entire video and sit amazed the entire run time? Also, Yes.

[@antronk]

+1 to the "buying plans/parts and never build it" club!🎉😂

[@rajatsawarkar]

me 2

[@j_de_s]

Not sure what's more impressive - the execution of the final product or the determination it takes to work through 4 months of problems

[@toddlawrimore3577]

Amazing work indeed. Don't forget the production quality of the video itself. Massive accomplishment!

[@elhnston6589]

42:04 The most impressive in this, that you trusted that bucket handle...

[@AntiVaganza]

Yep, I was cringing and expecting the next video to be: "How I broke by tail bone...". Glad he didn't though.

[@MaxionWang]

That bucket handle was doing the lord's work

[@ScottWalshWoodworking]

I built your first camera arm, I love it! Access to the40mm square aluminium tube in Canada was tricky, and I probably paid waaaay too much for importing it, so using the extruded stuff for this one was a good choice for North Americans. I also had to remodel everything for the counter weight system so that I could use 4" sewer pipe, instead of the European equivalent. Old window sash weights work great for the counter weight itself and fit neatly into the 4" sewer pipe. I have two cameras, one on each side on mine which works great for filming A and B rill simultaneously.

[@lescarneiro]

If this project had one name, it would be: FEATURE CREEP. I love how you go deep down on each feature you imagined (along the way) for it, and this is only possible when someone has the available time to do it, and that's why I love independent creators, this powers the magic of creativity without strings attached, bravo!

[@TheAuxLux]

But on a more serious note. I think there is a lot space for improvement with reducing 3d printed parts amount and replacing them with available hardware stuff (like PVC pipe before). One idea I have right away is that instead of building enclosure, you could simply add guides for weights to slide on. Either rods or tensioned steel wire. Anyways, amazing project, and really inspiring!

[@Maex2k]

Just like on a gym cable machine. Swapping weights in and out would also be a lot easier that way.

[@ft.moder001]

50:15 amazing work and yes absolutely a 2nd upgrade video would be amazing...

[@MiroSays]

Yes please!

[@professionalhomeowner8465]

♥️❤️‍🔥

[@ShopNation]

I'm making one of these. Finally putting my 60 Bambulab printers to good use... Alex, massive respect dude, this is incredible!

[@scrager4]

please put more in to it. make the locking mechanisms out of wood some way. it's long straight pieces with a series of holes. That's perfect for wood working. Even if the granularity is less, consider how much plastic and time would be saved with a couple pieces of plywood.

[@billbyrd9845]

That's powerful praise Alex, coming from the man!

[@dannyvannierop805]

LOL.....I was was watching the video and thought of exactly same thing. Would be a nice very asset in your new workshop. And please make a video about it......I bet Alex wouldn't mind.😇

[@Penguinishy]

@@scrager4 FYI your responding to a channel that is a literal print farm. They have fleets of printers to pump out the parts needed in just a few hours. The amount of time he would save spreading the project across multiple workhorses vastly, vastly, outweighs any amount of time saved woodworking.

[@timaboon4610]

Gosh, man we MISSED YOU!! GLAD you are alive:)

[@flippnorge7105]

Bro same! So happy to see his video pop up!

[@Q.7]

Why? Did something happen to him?

[@timaboon4610]

​@@Q.7 no, but he usually posts at least once a month. And now it was like a 3 month period

[@Q.7]

@@timaboon4610 And how long this project took him?

[@timaboon4610]

@@Q.7 First, "glad you are alive" is more of a joke. Second, did you know that he is working on a project that took him 3 months? I didn't. So if I was seriously concerned, and not jokingly, there is no way for me to know if he is okay or not.

[@tomstaunton1804]

As someone who uses a Linhof Studiomatic column stand all day in the studio, it's genuinely refreshing to see someone in the space doing anything except for reproducing the same 70s design over and over. By all accounts it seems to be a direct upgrade from our trusty cast iron, although I'd be curious to see what the max camera weight works out to be. If I had a little more carbon petg lying around I'd love to give it a try, but for now I'll leave it to the professionals. Much love from Ireland!

[@drewcress]

To help make the locking mechanism more reliable, a dry graphite lube is likely better here. Fluid films collect dust and can jam up surprisingly quickly inside the housing. Having a good clean cut on the cable housing and using ferrule end caps help quite a bit as well. It would be worth checking out a couple of bike mechanic videos on the topic, as there is a lot of precision cable pull knowledge there. Some nicer cables sets have a Teflon inner coating, but I've found these wear out a bit too quickly with tight radius bends. For the cost (and especially for prototyping), a clean cable cut and graphite has been great for solving those fitly little friction issues.

[@JBLewis]

I was also thinking about eliminating the loop in the cable assembly by using a pulley. exit the sleeve, go around the pulley, and go back into a sleeve.

[@martylawson1638]

Also, 1x19 cable is WAY stiffer than 9x9 or 9x19 cable so you get much more precise movement even if it needs a larger bend radius. (and a strand of music wire can be even stiffer, but needs larger bend radius)

[@sculptormills]

To make this even better, exchange the ball head for a MANFROTTO JOYSTICK HEAD. It makes pointing the camera where you want it, almost instant. Yes, you need a different foot plate, but I find the Manfrotto foot plate on their photographers tripods more versatile the the ones traditionally used in video production, so that is what I use on all my video equipment.

[@sNEAKYnIGHTmUPPET]

the most impressive thing you did was keep me watching for nearly an hour without skipping anything other than the ads. I have no interest in making or owning a camera arm, but you do such a great job with videos that you keep me subbed, and you got my Like. Thanks again, great video.

[@Haddepe]

For the counterweight you need material that don't stretch, steel cable will also stretch and work harden with movement (it happen a lot with machine in a gym). Use something like aramide or kevlar. You can also use this for the locking mechanism. And for prototyping you can use assembly in most CAD software nowadays. You could have solve a lot of issues just in the software checking if it fit or go together and move freely.

[@dizzystick9]

Yes Dyneema rope

[@EvilGenius.]

Would like to see you make a smaller desk version of this arm for an office studio.

[@1mon_3dp]

I agree. this would be awesome as a microphone boom arm

[@EujenSandu]

@@1mon_3dp Well, the problem is that microphone boom arms are already widely available, and are very cheap.

[@jeremyllewellyn]

ya maybe with single extrusion pieces perhaps or same design with 2020

[@Plastikman99]

I’m pretty sure it was your first camera arm that led me to your channel, and I’ve been hooked ever since! I truly admire your creativity and the way you bring your ideas to life. Huge respect for your work, and thank you for sharing these amazing projects with us!

[@Miniac]

You're an absolute champion, Alex. I absolutely want to see more awesome 3D printed camera accessories!

[@Nerdforge]

Insanity. I love it! -h

[@Helveteshit]

Make a video of printing it and building it for your set-up. Let us see how Difficult it is to build for some novice!

[@robindonnolly3261]

hello!

[@Bob_Adkins]

The video left me drained, but happy.

[@DominusFeles]

Maybe you could inherit the old one? 😇

[@somewhere-else]

warping: often it helps to create and print “heatsink” blocks of a kind, giving your model some thermal mass to live next to (small small gap) as it all prints. helps transmit heat up through the heatbed and give everything some heat buffer.

[@CraftComputing]

And here I was thinking you'd outdone yourself with V1. What an amazing evolution of an already useful bit of kit.

[@Newmeishu]

There is a way to prevent warp on big pieces like this. Use an internal grid in the model. This will „cut” the parts internally and give a structural reinforcement at the same time. Even adding small channels perpendiculary to the length will reduce warp.

[@atomicsmith]

Amazing work! Small suggestion: maybe the counterweight should slide on one more 8020 piece. I think it might be easier to fine tune the weights , and should give the tower additional stiffness. Another thought: possibly just a brake on the pulley would stop vertical movement. The cross beam shouldn’t move on it’s own so shouldn’t need a brake for most uses. You could squeeze a bike brake lever at the camera head to make vertical adjustments, and when you release it would go back to locked immediately.

[@ConorMcclafferty]

Honestly, thank you so much for showing all the failures and iterations! I could have watched this for 3 hours!

[@ronboe6325]

Holy Moly! Peter Coulson (on KZbin, photographer in Australia) has a commercial version - no longer made, at least his model and I wish I had a studio or place to use one as it seems pretty dang slick. Now his version has the camera slide along the arm. It appears the arm just goes up and down. 6 of one, half dozen of the other - maybe that would not be as useful in your use case. But it would simplify the locking. You only need to worry about the Z axis. Making the column out of 4 tubes and making the arm wider would stiffen the whole thing up quite a bit - to the extent you could hang lights and modifiers off of it. But after all that development I'm afraid your sanity might be at risk...... :^). Well done!

[@Nbec95]

Tip for cutting all thread rods: Put a sacrificial nut on before cutting. Then cut and grind and then unscrew the nut over the cut. The nut restores a proper thread, but it may get damaged by this and should not be used for anything else involving any real load.

[@marsgizmo]

Alex, this project is a masterclass in 3D printing design! 👏😎 Your detailed walkthrough is perfect for educating and showing how important is to go through many iterations. This video is a must-watch for anyone looking to learn more about designing. Is packed with a lot of valuable lessons 😉 My personal wish, I would love to see some wooden panels on it 😌

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

Keep in mind depending on your Filament, Glue wiill not improve adhesion as glue will act as a releasing agent instead. The better way to get stuff to stuck is to have just a grippier Plate, something like the Qibi Glacier plate.

[@anurag_swain]

Hey man, I don't know if you ever see this comment or not. But the vamera rig video 4 Years ago, is the first video I ever watched of your. And after seeing that video I immediately subscribed to your channel and never missed a single video till then. Love your work. ❤

[@ZacharyDemars]

Never saw any of your content before. But clicked on this - not sure what I was watching. First one you showed - "that thing is pretty neat". And talk about re-designing it over a simple melted pulley. Thanks for taking us through your failures as well as the success - amazing build.

[@mitchellmnr]

Instead of having that whole tube for the counter weight, merge it with the center. You can make the center area bigger. Since you now have the best tubes to do this, you can do a lot more - You could just have a printed bracket that screws into the one side of the 45deg strut. The other side of the strut can guide the weight. If you added a 3rd strut (a few cm offset - so not center) on the other side or alu angle channel or what not - you can use that to hold the weight in Few ways to do this aspect, but the idea is that. Instead of having to print all the spacers in the middle to hold the structs and also the weight tube with teflon tubes, you minimize that area of the design. Also allows you to keep the arm lighter since less material. Heck, you could do a cable chain if you wanted too ... could pull power or whatever and have batteries at the bottom instead of on the camera? Then for the locking mechanism, rubber .... Think of break pads. Many ways to do this, but basically use the rubber (must have a 3d filament that can do that) to put pressure on the sides to stop it from moving. You could also use the structs for what they are ... they have a gap for a locking screw ... if you round down the piece that fits inside, you can make it slide easy. Then just have a spring that pulls it outwards, and you have another break :) Okay, so then the other part which you'll probs enjoy more.... The locking mech you have to lock/unlock the whole thing. Use like a break handle. Think of those tools you use to test your grip strength. Something like that on the end of the rail. So, you squeeze (grip) - that pulls the wire to release the break. So it means you always are in control and as soon as you release, it breaks. So it'll never fling to the top or bottom - no way too... it will be under breaking power. Now, what happens if its too weighty and unbalanced and really wants to fling up or down... Look at elevators - they've got this down already. They have a traveller wire which when it spins to fast, activates the breaks. In your case if you did breaks and grip like above, if you let go, it would auto start breaking .... But, you could do something similar with the pully at the top - if it spins to fast, it can just expand (centrifugal force) and do some slowing down ... but doesn't need to.... You could just add more resistance on it so that it can't move fast anyway :) Overall, that should minimize the amount of printing people (and you) need to do in order to build the device. By moving the main vertical struts a bit further apart, gives you a bit more rigidity. The breaking is simpler, break by default, pull to release. The side weights are easy to access and add/remove (oh... make the additional weights gapped in the middle so you can just slide them on top of eachother so easy to add/remove) And you can also add cabling if you wanted too (motorized?)

[@Tomary]

We just decided to build the first Version and just before we started you updated it! Amazing 😊 Greetings from Germany

[@Spanching]

Da wird dann hoffentlich auch ein Video draus :)

[@andreanizzola4645]

You could think about using a long hex rod for the locking mechanism. you just turn a knob where the camera is which rotates the rod. Look at how the auto-feed for a manual late works, it's a spinning rod that drives something on a moving carriage. Not sure if plastic will be able to transmit the torque over such a long distance but maybe you can find an aluminum extruded hex shaft.

[@mmcnama4]

Love this. One suggestion: for the locking mechanism, it would be sweet if you could do that whole movement one handed in a handle at the end oh the arm/boom. Maybe a squeeze on a large button on the inside of the handle or something smaller like a trigger mechanism so you don't accidentally hit it when you don't want.

[@JBLewis]

Regarding the camera mount platform and the bolts that compress the printed layers. I was just thinking about how I used that same principle myself when I made a custom RAM Mount ball for my ham radio. I needed a "B" ball with an m5 thread, which they don't make. So I printed a sphere on a stem with a clearance bore through both and a hex-shaped hole to capture the head of the M5 bolt. So when it installed the bolt threads in the factory M5 insert on the radio component, and compresses the print layers on the stem, so even though that stem's OD is only about 8mm, it's plenty sturdy!

[@10suo]

Consider using electromagnets for the locking mechanism for version 3. When powered they unlock, so without power it would stay locked.

[@berkertaskiran]

What's by far the best is if the thing just stayed in place without any locking needed.

[@dizzystick9]

Oh yes and a magnetic break with copper and an electromagnetism...I also was saying on my comment using Dyneema rope like used on robotics as it is super strong and doesn't stretch

[@ilyas9104]

as someone with a short attention span, who has nothing to do with videography, who has nothing to do with 3d printing and knows nothing about it. not only you managed to hold my attention for 50 minutes, but made me wanna build one of these just because. congrats

[@iaa66]

To fix the warping issues, change the first layer pattern to hilberts curve. The layer lines are no longer straight, resulting in less internal stresses.

[@Ninjadunet]

Next step is to add steppers on each axis and two additional one on the camera mount to have gyro control and you have a programmable cameraman. You could also add a motors on the base for it to move and some ai software to have it litterally follow you and make sure you are always in the middle of the frame. That would probably be overkill but insane. Nice work !!!

[@colinsmith6340]

What an amazing amount of effort. Incredible! The only thing i can say is that all these structural parts made with PLA might suffer over time. PLA does creep under stress, so you will find anything thats "tight" now will slowly loosen. I learned this the hard way when i used PLA for a structural element on a shelf, and it slowly but surely bent over time. PLA creep is an absolute pain in the ass, so had to reprint certain things i have made over the years in industrial ABS which doesn't have creep.

[@MichaelOwens1972]

Awesome project, and I love the honesty of your process. Your online shop is really nice. If I could, I would suggest maybe putting the video where you make the item on the product page, either as an embed or a link.

[@ThePhilbox]

Awesome! I enjoyed watching this whole video. As someone who designs and prints their worn stuff its very entertaining to see you tackle such a large and complex project. Thanks for sharing the adventure with us. Good luck. hope you sell a ton of them!

[@CasparMacRae]

Marking a print with things like "sh*tty access", and reaching 'that' project point (over invested, no turning back) where you question your entire life decisions... . "Now this time, like quite a lot of other times I'm quite confident it will work, and everytime I think that I remind myself it's version OH_FFS". Subscribed!

[@Nbec95]

Really impressive project overall. I always start to design my own version of these things in my head while watching. However, many parts seem to be really material heavy. The total amount of filament needed is quite substantial. Many custom parts just don't seem to be necessary. Like the counterweight: Just fill a PVC tube with concrete. Guide for the counterweight: PVC tube or yet another aluminum rail.

[@davidbrennan7422]

I love watching these kinds of AC videos. All the design work, all the problems and solutions, the rollercoaster of emotions that anyone who has worked on a long term, complex project will recognize. Seeing how he does things and how I would have done them differently helps me to reevaluate my approach to this kind of problem solving, which is always a valuable thing to do. Great stuff Alex! Looking forward to your next video, as always.

[@_Funtime60]

There's probably a way to make the "counterweight" mechanically adjustable. A simple weight could take up most of the empty arm weight and then a series of block and tackle type pulleys could allow you to use a shorter (maybe) gas spring to take up the rest of the weight. The trick is you'd need some kind of adjustable constant force mechanism but I don't know enough about those to suggest how to do that.

[@OleksandrPakhalchuk]

Amazing thing! I am so much looking forward to building one of these as soon as I rent my own studio space! One suggestion that came to my mind: why not make counterweights similar to those in the gym equipment, where You can select how much weight plates are needed on the go.Plus often they have fine tuning knob that let's You add 5-10 pounds without selecting another weight plate. That would make it easier to balance different rigs.

[@Penguinishy]

You could even probably set up some attachment points on the arm and use a modular system like gridfinity to organize and setup ease of use for accessories for camera and lighting and battery banks, that would make it even more versatile!

[@lorenworthington8739]

First off; absolute bravo! I would think you could hand over the files to one of the eprint farms out there, and someone who doesn’t want to spend the next year printing could order a kit that includes all of the parts. I’ve used 8020 for a number of projects. And I have found that the 10 X 10 is so much lighter but has virtually the same strength as the 15 x 15. If it is still flexing, there’s probably some flat strap you could add that keeps the weight down And resist in the two directions. But weight can be your friend when it comes to mounting cameras. I would also think you could make a friction brake that restricts the movement of the base It might also prove worthwhile to add some measuring marks along both axis so that you could easily re-create the same photo shoot by knowing where everything was locked in previously. Always a worth wild watch. Thanks for making such good stuff.

[@BillCarlson]

I'm not sure I'll ever get around to building this - but just in case, I bought both as a way to say 'thank you!' for making great content! As an idea, I'm also going to throw out that I was thinking of building a camera arm like this with drag chains on each axis, so that I could put a large battery on the base and power everything from there. But I think your idea of putting a small battery on the other end of arm is a lot more simple, plus it helps with balancing.

[@jonathan-c5h2g]

Thanks for sharing your design and how you got to it! You mentioned the locking mechanism being in "early phases of development"; Maybe consider a cam (as in camshaft) for locking the arm in place. I think, it would be less likely to break if you lock it while still in motion. You likely thought of that already, but for the bowden cable you could also add pulleys to decrease the friction. However, this is at the cost of complexity.

[@miege90]

43:30 Whenever the failure point is layer delamination, that's a good indicator that the part should be printed in another orientation

[@MaximvanWijk]

I now completely understand why factory camera stands cost thousands of €€€. 😄 Great work Alexandre!

[@sircod]

Watching this before going to bed just ended up making it hard to sleep thinking about how I would redesign, despite having no need for one myself. For the carriage assembly for connecting the two axis, instead of 4 pieces with two pairs each clamping over a rail you could have 3 pieces with one in between the two axis and one plate on either side clamping in. The great thing about having the rails rotated 45 deg is it doesn't matter which direction you clamp from. The problem with having the rails 45 deg off is it makes the forces involved much more complicated. Instead of that huge vertical torque ripping the part apart in one direction, now it is pulling it apart in two directions. I would just have the rails straight so that you can brace for that vertical force properly while the lateral forces become much more manageable. But then that would make adjustments more complicated as you would need independent adjustments for each direction. How long until you redesign the whole thing for the third time?

[@BitzboxTV]

I can't believe the first camera rig was 4 years ago!! Absolutely incredible how much time and work you've put into this

[@DCXTV]

I used the same slotted 4040 for my lighting rails in work room to store and move the studio lights, they work really well for this kind of stuff.

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Alex, this is so good. Love your commitment to getting all the details dialed in, even if it did include a little scope creep, lol. Well done!

[@FrankTuk]

As an engineer i really like your process of improving and iterating to get to a fully functional product. Seeing the whole thing does excite me to build a streamlined version. And this, ladies and gentlemen, is why engineers and designers will keep improving stuff until the end of time. we are never happy and are happy to keep messing around. :D

[@williamschultz298]

You dont need the long "bolts", you just need to move the start and end point to the "outside" of the part and closer to the gap you're trying to close. Kinda like a brim. You could also make the counterweight round and just longer, saving a bunch of print time by using a normal tube. An all in all better system is made by Inheritance Machining if you are interested, but yours has the advantage of not being stuck in the same room.

[@lukasvotteler1168]

Congratulations! As an engineer myself I feel compelled to say, YOU CAN NOW BE CONSIDERED TO BE AN ENGINEER. At least in my eyes. Very impressive work!!

[@Tandberg91]

As another engineer I support this comment 👍

[@keithviolette5870]

Excellent video & cool design. The locking mechanism could be done without the cable. If you have a rotating square extrusion between the horizontal rails, rotating it would engage the brake. You could also use a hydraulic bike brake mechanism to grip the extrusions to eliminate all of the black spacer blocks and the complicated bevel gears.

[@Eft0n]

One thing that might also help with the concrete expanding is while pouring it in the prints, use a something that vibrates and move that around the 3d print, then the concrete will set better and without air bubbles.

[@diekellerwerft]

Now remove all the screws and bolts from the test parts. Dismantle the old arm and recycle it. Then the new project: A shredder for all the old printed stuff. Build a shredder. Make your own filament. Then you'll always have enough filament for tests and trials. About 1000€ for tests. That's definitely going to hurt your wallet... (Love your new Version of the Camarm)👍

[@timstratton9]

a very niche project but does it ever show off what the maker-space can make with some tenacity and ingenuity. Excellent work, i really enjoyed this.

[@AlphaMachina]

I ended up printing two long c-channel strips with a gap in them just big enough to fit the edge of my print plate (kind of like an L bracket) I attached these strips to the bottom of my printer on either side of the print plate so that the plate literally slides under the lip of the strips, holding it down on either side. Now it no longer allows the print to bow the plate upward along the edges. Your printed clamps were all separate little pieces, so that's why it still bowed. The more surface area you cover, the easier it'll be to combat the bowing, so this is why it's important to use an entire strip.

[@VirtualReality-zv5oh]

This is an unbelievably cool project. The amount of technology and knowledge you've put into it is incredible. All the little tricks with the weights. Great video!

[@cocoxcocoa]

I noticed you were using the default modifier shapes and manually moving them around in the slicer. Im not sure wheather you know this or not, but its a good tip for anyone that doesn't, where you can actually make a custom model and move it around in whatever CAD software you use, and export it as an stl/ step/ etc, then you can import that custom model as a modifier. you don't have to move it around or anything in the slicer to get it to line up, even if you've been moving the actual part around. Its much more precise than trying to manually get a cylinder centred on a bolt hole while fighting with the camera, and being able to use a custom model means you have way more control.

[@imviper]

This is such a great project. Love the engineering challenge and for me it just shows how amazing having a 3d printer in your home is, the only limitation is your imagination. Being able to manufacture complex parts at home for reasonable cost is such a game changer.

[@jessygonzalez6020]

we would love to see you make a video that focuses reusing previous prints to remake filament. reduce the waste and make it efficient.

[@jonathanmartens]

A very nice project. Regarding the locking mechanism, wouldn't it be easier to have the lock engaged by default and make some sort of pinching mechanism (like a bike brake, but operating reversed, pinch to release), that way you can pinch, move and release to lock.

[@ENDERSTIXgaming]

the old camera arm watching you slowly print and assemble it's replacement 😰

[@billbyrd9845]

Persistence, imagination, persistence, intelligence, persistence. All the great ones in history had those qualities.

[@S0lkin]

to take out the wobble u should put another extruded aluminum 45º off, because theshe geometries are more suported in that orientation (differently from a square cube)

[@matthewprince6157]

I watched your first one a few months back and was amazed. Seeing this one being built just blows me away even more. I don't have a space where this would be usable for me but it sure gives me ideas for what would work. Amazing project. I can't wait to see what you make next.

[@BenJeensWilliams]

This build was truly epic, and your dedication to completing it was incredibly inspiring! You must feel both delighted and relieved.

[@Shacklady1]

Great Project Alex, i was looked in for the full video! Loved seeing the problem solving. you should consider doing a Q&A for your fans and excited to see what's next

[@3dtagtraum]

crazy tool! also would be like to add dumper on all end positions for smooth stopping

[@0ut0fTen]

Your tenacity is admirable.

[@ghostdog0424]

If you want a cheaper solution to cable you could use Dyneema rope. It's often used as a lightweight replacement for steel cable, even the 3mm stuff is super strong if you get decent sk78

[@carlos.teixeira]

Add a grabbing handle bellow the ballhead with a pistol trigger to lock/Unlock the arms from your camera position. No more going around to un/lock it

[@XTJ7]

I loved your original arm and this is even better in every way, despite all the pains it caused you along the way. I'm sure it was a tremendous amount of fun solving all the problems whenever you did and beating this challenge must be hugely satisfying. It was not the sensible thing to do, it was "because I can" - and I'm 100% here for it. Hats off to you!

[@Shiny_Error651]

NIce Video. I can't wait for the next part. But i would recomend some Loctide on the STruckture holding selfmade long screws. I used this technique also some time ago and had the problem that the nuts unscrewed them self over time. I dont think that this is an problem soon but it can be an problem in some years. I alway love your videos, keep doing what you do and stay creativ.

[@thomas11malinowski]

Whoa whoa whoa steel cable has a really large Bend radius if you continue using it the cable will snap in around 1-3 years depending on uses.There are two solutions 1.use larger wheel for the counterweight like your last design, or change steel wire a quality rope vectren. The locking cables is probably good enough

[@christosvolikakis1523]

45:50 Put playground sand, in Ziploc bags Inside of a small gym bag or cloth shoe bag to use as a wait. Sandbags, you can have never enough sandbags on a film, production set, and you, sir, have a great film production set now! Subscribed.

[@spchaurasiya43]

Loved it. Imagine the horizontal arm could be rotated like a scissors when not in use for storage or transportation!

[@JohnMGibby]

Incredible, incredible project Alex. Your ingenuity and persistence is admirable! I am wondering if your next version is motorized with a remote control. You would be able to drive it around and move the mechanisms! I could see you working with Ivan Miranda being a great collaboration.

[@athornton1974]

Dude, well done! Super impressed. You hit the sweet spot of showing enough of your design process to be helpful with keeping the overall build going. Thank you.

[@Rockhopper1]

if you put a motor on the step part on the column, and a rack and pinion on the arm, you can make it robotic, just saying and you can programme movement on the arm, so whilst doing a time lapse or filming the system can auto move,

[@JeffYantha]

Great work on the design and even better on the timing. I’ve recently decided to start my own KZbin channel, and my Bambu printers were just delivered last week. 100% I’ll be building one of these!

[@AnthonyHitmanFiore]

Surely that's also a testament to the longevity and reliability of the printers, to knock out that much material and for that many hours. Tempted to buy the base model just to make some darts holders to sell and light rings 😂

[@pixelbat]

Now can you make it with motors to move the axes for nice smooth panning and tilting shots? Power it with an Arduino, add some code to program your shots beforehand, or maybe rig it up to a game controller for live movement :)

[@andryh.3779]

the camera arm was the video which introduced me to your channel and since then, has been my fspurite, watching it multiple times! I just love tge DIY Factor combined with functionality! Using your mind to make life more fitting for yourself, instead of always making yourself fit more to your specific life is just somehiw satisfying! Chapeu!

[@fi5ke]

I'm 38 min and just watching like this: 🤩... forgetting it's almost been 40 minutes watching some Norwegian guy build a camera rig. This is so awesome 🥳

[@NMRoeten]

For the wire you could use technora. Stronger then steel cable with the same thickness and as mendable as rope. But maybe expensive.

[@celsoaz2]

very nice final product, but I couldn't stop thinking that some of those parts could have been done using plywood or MDF. That could have reduced the amound of printing time and plastic material on the overall project. I think the structural plates from the arms, you could just have printed the "geared rails part" and sloted them in place of a plywood section.

[@refsvik]

Obsessive, but amazing. Love to see mistakes and problemsolving. In awe about the time spent to design and build an amazing camera crane. ❤

[@elijahfifita1122]

50 minute video! I need some popcorn. The first one was one of my favorite videos. I’m pumped for this next video.

[@hunterdail]

A thought i had at the end when you did the wobble test and im sure its probably easy to overlook this during such a sick project, we probably wont even see it wobble because of image stabilization

[@leoberges1705]

If you want to reduce de vibrations of the arm you can fill the 3D prints with small steel balls to allow vibrations dissipation.

[@SuperDavidEF]

How small? Would just cheap BB's for BB guns work?

[@DCXTV]

PETG would take stress better than PLA. I've printed all the structural parts in my studio work room with Sunlu PETG. I've tried some Frontier Fila PETG but that one seems to be varying in diameter (or is slimmer) because those prints were lacking material, and I heard a friend got brittle parts with some PETG so I can only vouch for Sunlu.

[@Heffie01]

Alexandre, another awesome project and fantastic design. I love watching the design process of projects like this. To many people just cut to the final without showing the intervening steps and design process you've gone to and the reasoning as to why you made those changes. Keep up the awesome work.