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[@Brmbaz1]

Solder the copper to the strip first then spot weld too the battery.

[@Bikesandrones]

Awesome I'm impressed with the results andy mate defo looking at these cells for my next battery build 👍👍

[@dbmiller5881]

well that is just awesome Andy! What a great build! I see lots of comments about "top speed" - but I really don't think that's the point at all. Getting above 40mph on a bicycle is always going to be sketchy at best. However, the acceleration, torque/pull, ability to climb steep terrain, all kinds of cool trail riding stuff... that's real fun of a setup like this, IMHO.

[@christopherroberts22]

Get yourself a DECENT Weller solder station ! Accurate temp tips ! I used a weller to do a whole 1.2kwh 14s HG2 lilo pack (before I bought the same spot welder as you have... ) .. The weller was so accurate and fast at getting the solder done !! Your beast is ok for power soldering but there's little controllable soldering accuracy ! ;) You spend shed loads on gear! I'm sure you can afford a couple hundred on a decent solder station ;) ... My HG2 pack is now 3 years in and still going strong ! Mountainbiking extreme tracks ! up steep lake district climbs ! its a beast !

[@rhodesianwojak2095]

Hmm

[@ferosofranek8817]

Hello, I have a mixed feelings when you soldering on these cells - one bad move with soldering iron or cable and your battery turn to fireworks. But I must say one thing: these nickel strips are more than sufficient (for 3cm length it has 1mohm and you have 3 of them parallel), for all 19 connections it is 7mohms - for 50Amps it adds only 0,3V drop. Adding more material will not help anything. Welded spot is more critical - make sure that is done properly. Overall voltage drop depends mainly on battery cell internal resistance, which makes the cell hot. For 10V drop and 50Amps current, you have roughly 500W turned to heat inside the heat insulated battery pack. Be careful, because excess temperature can blow off your battery. Sorry for my English, I am working on it.

[@Dana5775]

Fero Šofránek agreed the worst thing you could do to your brand new pack is expose it to that much heat! Heat is the number one enemy of these cells. There are many other alternatives.even a low voltage spot welder is better. Also that solder has a high failure potential and if the solder comes loose you could have denigration to neighboring cells!

[@Dana5775]

Jon Doe ,I have built dozens of battery packs starting as early as 2008. While it may not ruin the entire pack one cell out of the pack is all it takes. it is risky and will result in a higher percentage of cell failures or diminished capacity. Once one cell has lower capacity the BMS will charge the pack to its lowest common denominator ( Weakest cell) compromising the packs potential. Then after a number of charge and discharges the weak cell runs hotter the the others .the increased resistance stresses it further as it cannot keep up with the pack. And of course this failure can cause thermal run away of the entire pack. If I build packs for friends family or clients I do not want to take on this liability. I have been soldering, brazing and welding over 40 years. NOT ALL ATTEMPTS ARE SUCCESSFUL despite proper preparation. Second attempts surely cause damage! AS I SAID HEAT IS THE ENEMY THATS WHY TESLA HAS an ENGINEERED COOLING SYSTEM! I have had cells fail for no apparent reason at all. When Building a pack always order 5% more than you need and eliminate the weakest cells from the beginning by charging the individually to compare capacity and voltage. Eventually after building a number of packs I can make a pack from these discarded cells as long as they are approximately the same capacity. ( use smaller packs for auxiliaries, lights etc if you leave an accessory on it could drain your whole pack leaving you stranded.

[@ferosofranek8817]

@Jon Doe Are you responding to my comment? Because I never say anything about heat from his soldering iron - but I say it now. Li-ion battery cells 18650 without tabs can't be connected by soldering directly, because they can be damaged. Spot welding is commonly used for this purpose. And about that heat - you can clearly see, that he edit video at 3:41 (he probably burn his finger first time, so he cut this out). Metal is generally very good heat conductor and lead-free solder is fully melted above 250°C. Soldering process takes about 2-3 seconds - don't tell me that this cell is stone cold. And YES, 7mohms on battery internal connections is nothing to worry about, battery cells has much bigger internal resistance (about 30-50mohm/cell). And when I saw those connections between battery packs, I fell pity about these battery cells. Why he don't let nickel strips longer and solder on the end???

[@ferosofranek8817]

@Jon Doe ok, take it easy, you aren't his advocate (or are you???) If someone make video like this, must expect some "not very positive" reactions. This video - it is just not very good example how to do things - that's why I wrote comments. But I like his spirit and passion :)

[@Dana5775]

Jon Doe , I have built my own breadboards back in the early days. A battery management system (BMS) is any electronic system that manages a rechargeable battery (cell or battery pack), such as by protecting the battery from operating outside its safe operating area monitoring its state, calculating secondary data, reporting that data, controlling its environment, authenticating it and / or balancing it. A battery pack built together with a battery management system with an external communication data bus is a smart battery pack. A smart battery pack must be charged by a smart battery charger. A BMS may monitor the state of the battery as represented by various items, such as: Voltage: total voltage, voltages of individual cells, minimum and maximum cell voltage, or voltage of periodic taps Temperature: average temperature, coolant intake temperature, coolant output temperature, or temperatures of individual cells State of charge (SOC) or depth of discharge (DOD), to indicate the charge level of the battery State of health (SOH), a variously-defined measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery as % of the original capacity State of power (SOP), the amount of power available for a defined time interval given the current power usage, temperature and other conditions State of Safety (SOS) Coolant flow: for air or fluid cooled batteries Current: current in or out of the battery Thermal Management. Battery thermal management systems can be either passive or active, and the cooling medium can either be air, liquid, or some form of phase change. Air cooling is advantageous in its simplicity. Such systems can be passive, relying only on the convection of the surrounding air, or active, utilizing fans for airflow. Commercially, the Honda Insight and Toyota Prius both utilize active air cooling of their battery systems. The major disadvantage of air cooling is its inefficiency. Large amounts of power must used to operate the cooling mechanism, far more than active liquid cooling. The additional components of the cooling mechanism also add weight to the BMS, reducing the efficiency of batteries used for transportation. Liquid cooling has a higher natural cooling potential than air cooling as liquid coolants tend to have higher thermal conductivities than air. The batteries can either be directly submerged in the coolant or coolant can flow through the BMS without directly contacting the battery. Indirect cooling has the potential to create large thermal gradients across the BMS due to the increased length of the cooling channels. This can be reduced by pumping the coolant faster through the system, creating a tradeoff between pumping speed and thermal consistency.[3]

[@jonathanevans2677]

Brilliant keep up the good work Andy 👍😊

[@Narinjas]

I would recommend you place an aluminium bar between the batteries and figure out a place where to fit a few minutes to disperse the heat (sides to have protection and have the textile pouch sides take the heat when you are speeding)

[@skater4169]

Looks like a serious bit of kit Andy and that Icom 7100 on the bench ain’t bad ether.

[@billienomates1606]

Watching the intro I just got a sudden flash back to the Delorean in back to the future with the flame tracks coming off the wheels as it time travelled, nice one.

[@DazzaDirect]

all hail the nutter with "insane mode" , stay safe Andy ;-]

[@keithwhittygmail]

That's very impressive. Your onto something there.

[@GaryC203]

DAM!!!!! Andy that is awesome i can`t wait to see more on this ebike :)

[@chrisw4248]

Hi Andy, have you considered fitting a Rohloff hub gear set up to this? Would be interesting too see how it deals with such power.. I'm sure Eric @ Luna Cycles built a powerful mid drive with one successfully. Love the channel btw, been a fan for some time now. All the best from Scotland : )

[@danielgreen4213]

Hi great video could you put up any live dash info on the screen in the video for us at all in your next video like live speed watts ect I think that would be a nice touch and would be interesting to see.

[@solarfunction1847]

My battery pack I'm building once my spot welder arrives from Malectrics is going to be a 13s8p @ 3.35a x 8 = 48.1v / 26.8ah 1289.08 watt hr of 104x 3.35a cells for my mid drive motor. I got my new 700c wheels & 23c Thickslick Flat Guard tyres on my lightweight carbon bike, I'll only be using it on the street. My front chainwheel is a 53T & rear cassette is 9 speed 9 / 12 / 15 / x18 / x21 / 24 / 28 / 34 / 40 Tooth. Andy I remembered from my past competition cycling days why you are stripping cassettes all the time when you rip the throttle on your bike. You need to upgrade your chain to a better quality type such as a KMC X9E RB 9 SPEED RUST BUSTER HEAVY BIKE DUTY CHAIN 136 LINK GREY. Also you might want to look into buying this Molten Speed Wax - Chain Lubricant. What is happening to your chain is that it's stretching due to the 80 to 160 newton's force you are throwing on it & most normal chains are not up to handling an e-bike motor. Once the chain stretches it will then jump out of the cassette gear & go crunch very loudly. So every time you replace a cassette you should replace the chain as well. If you look after your chain then it should last 30000 km or more & the same with your cassette. So get the chain wax treatment, go online to find out how to clean your chain, apply the treatment & then after you ride you just rinse off your chain from any dirt etc & it will remain perfectly clean & lubricated. You can also go make your own chain lube with paraffin wax & paraffin lamp oil as well as Xylene to make up enough to have a squirty bottle to lube your chain every now & again to keep it running for 30000 kms or more.

[@icemanknobby]

Not sure if this is possible but worth a try next time, if you can try and solder the copper cable onto the Pre-cut nickel strips, then just needs the nickel strips and pre-soldered copper wire to be spot welded to the terminals. JOB DONE:-)

[@kurtischubb]

Great video man! You are definitely a mad scientist 😂

[@bramsoff-grid]

Got the same spotwelder. Hooked up on a car battery. Works great, I have over 1000 welds with it in 'auto mode'. I do solder the cables first and then spotweld them to the battery.

[@shifty277]

This is a batter process that you have described - Andy does not claim to be an expert battery pack builder but he has done a good enough job for his fun little screamer e-mtb. Specialized or Trek would want about £8000 for these types of bike and spec. No doubt he will improve his techniques the more packs he builds for hisself. Good comment 👍

[@BrunoPOWEEER]

Love your videos man... so much POWEEEEEEEERRR ohhh yeaahh!!!!

[@andykirby]

Hey man! Love your videos too man! We need to collab one day! So Much POWWWEEERRRRR!!!

[@FarmerFpv]

Bruno is a kook...

[@JoLe1991]

solar panel bus bars are the best connectors for high drain batteries. they are 1mm2 (5x0.2mm) tin plated copper strips you can just fuse them on to tinned battery terminals and double or triple them up for high amperage. the tin/lead alloy also melts at a much lower temperature

[@billienomates1606]

Enjoyable vid, didn't understand much of what you said about the battery build although interesting. But what a battery pack you have created, impressive. Looking forward to the next vid.

[@dietalkaa]

HAHA. Came here to look around the electric bike video, first thing I notice is the icom ic-7100 :D Good stuff!

[@rickb9238]

It would be nice to actually know the speed that you were able to obtain. Very nice work indeed.👍👍

[@flexo3333]

4kw mid drive should top out at about 75kph.

[@R3FL3X84]

fast enough lol very quick bike not just the speed its how it reaches it. looks so much fun in the woods

[@tyrone-tydavis5858]

First off, there's no such thing as too much power. 😱 You are wild. Love your channel.

[@steve_main]

Soldering Tip: I know I mentioned this in your other video but please heat your wire up first.. the the wire melt the solder don't melt the solder onto the wire. This creates such a bad connection at 4:28 see how you heated up that wire and you can see that solder just get pulled in.. this is what you want. Always heat the wire and let the solder get melted from the heat on the wire!!

[@jasonmilligan1726]

How much would it cost for a battery like that

[@syfikit]

great fun watching!

[@leethomas1884]

Where should I get a nice carbon fiber frame? Tallboy what should I do either 1) convert to belt drive or 2) keep the chain. What do you think I'll be having to spend for mid-drive motor kit , battery and electronics. Where can I find a great frame on the cheap. I do want it to be as lite as possible so I can put it on a metro bus if need be.

[@k1ortia]

A man cave packed full of electrics and high voltage equipment with the potential to catch fire. Good job its made out of chip board and mdf... i love it

[@floppynorris]

That looks awesome, I may have to upgrade my bike with one of them batteries 😃

[@marccawood]

Like a mini IOM TT but off road and "pedal powered"! What motor can handle that power?

[@quimblyjones9767]

This is really cool! Glad I came across your channel

[@MVargabass]

Drinking game! Every time he says “like that”!

[@sageoz9886]

I suggest you get a Box Components 9 speed e-bike drivetrain. It's super tough and economical. $279US for the basic system and $379 for the nicer version.

[@davidamazing1853]

Can you please tell me Where you purchase those cells and your BMS?

[@kaywoodparsons1874]

That was insane! Love it!

[@HandyC]

How about, instead of the handlebar switch, you fit a hidden magnetic reed switch inside the bag / box somewhere and then just have a little magnet on your keyring.. Boom, hidden secure on off button, no keys required. ;)

[@sparkiekosten5902]

Now that's a idea I might "borrow" from you. I currently have to unzip my battery bag to turn my battery on and off!

[@emilen2]

I'm about to do this to my BBSHD tomorrow. I reckon you also need some iron to which the external magnet key can hold on to. I will try to see if mine can fit in the small Bafang control panel, and perhaps also make it impossible to use the + key without the magnet attached, so it essentially locks the bike in legal mode. An anti police switch if you will.

[@HandyC]

ECN you dont need to leave the magnet attached as its a momentary switch not a latching one but yea, I've often wondered how I could engineer a "it's 250w officer" mode with no button on show, I might be on to something here 🤣

[@MicRuLerZ]

@@sparkiekosten5902 rfid switch maybe

[@petertothRC-FPV]

Insane mode🏆 Hold on buddy

[@seeker7679]

I only started watching this channel today and you obviously know what you're doing but from my MTB days I would suggest only running components built for downhill biking. They're usually overbuilt which I think would be handy for that monster you've built! Keep up the good work!

[@andykirby]

Yeah you are right there, basically mostly everything is downhill stuff, the front forks are the strengthened ebike version of the Fox36, normally you’d use a double crown DH fork on a powerful ebike but I wanted to test these out on this build😁 I’ll be doing some more videos about this so stay tuned if you like this sort of stuff! Thanks for watching.

[@seeker7679]

Thanks for the response. Just subbed you so I'll be watching. Cheers!

[@andykirby]

Cool! Thanks for subbing😁

[@scoobytrap]

I would not use solder for your connections, I would use ultrasonic welds. Ultrasonic welds are impervious to heat, more secure under vibration and probably have lower resistance...not sure about this last point.

[@williamgoring7605]

I'll remember that you see a lot of guys on KZbin soldering them but there's one guy that does the spot weld I've watched so many of these videos cuz I'm researching which bike to buy I'm saving up but thanks for that tip no solder okay sounds good

[@yakz9885]

Andy, i had that iron if you leave it on for too long the iron gets too hot and melts and the handle and its starts to move about which makes it hard to solder.

[@andykirby]

Haha! Yeah I read some reviews about this, it was on another type. This is an Antex, was yours? I left it on 1-2 hours and it was fine.

[@technocrat7971]

If any one is planning on soldering a battery pack together or beefing up existing nickel strips get yourself some 5mm x 0.2mm Pre tinned copper Tabbing Bus Bar Wire/Ribbon. Its used for connecting solar cells but it's perfect for soldering battery packs it sticks so much easier than nickel strips or copper wire. You can find it on ebay for around £5 for 4 metres inc postage

[@joshuahuang07]

i used to like the liitokala 26650 cells but 9v of sag is just insane. I'm doing 20s3p pulling 40a.

[@hhead56]

Looks like more power cool thanks.

[@lawrencemunroe6798]

I want to build one ,makes my Zebra look slow ,although I am waiting to see what modifications I can make to my bike because I believe I have a good heavy duty frame .Naturally I will wear out the life cycle of my bike first before considering my options .Originally that is the way I should of gone .

[@LEO-xo9cz]

Nice build!

[@wtffy204]

I want to get more power out of my electric scooter its 48 volt 12amp 1600watt moter. Wud getting higher amp 12 volt battery make any difference???

[@warlockboyburns]

My shimano alphine 8 internal gear hub has served me well paired with my bafang bbs02

[@NetMillionaire]

Looks great FUN! and awesome bikes! How fast in MPH? I saw another ebike for sale that does up to 35mph for about £1,700 (on ebay) you have to sign a document and they give you a code to unlock it, but thats AWESOME! How does your bike compare? speed, options etc?

[@Denvermorgan2000]

Awesome build!

[@makarovkid9696]

You're insane. I love it

[@tabineshhtc]

Use soldering flux/paste as well.

[@XhristinaMacey]

Yes it cleans and makes a much better connection

[@LEO-xo9cz]

Get an old microwave and build a spot welder 😊

[@NaeMuckle]

Scratch up the surface before you solder too. It gives the solder something to grab.

[@girgislv]

prob will get one for going to work, how much better battery costs?

[@solarfunction1847]

8mm x 0.2 Nickel Strip is equal to 16 AWG or 15 AMP continuous @ 30 degrees Celsius, it will do much more amperage if you live in a cold climate & also if you are pumping heavy loads for short periods.

[@andykirby]

👍👍 so we are good for above 90A then! I’m happy!

[@solarfunction1847]

If you send me an email to [e-mail] I can send you the 2 jepg pictures that one is the equivalent wire guage ratings on nickel strip & the other is the amp ratings for awg wire.

[@AndrewEllisAndymanout]

Amazing speed on that one!

[@kaybeane7196]

Wish you could build me one. Absolutely love it. Very nice job

[@jamesgadd5322]

Hey Andy love your vids! This is an unrelated question but figured id ask here. Im looking at getting one of your 1500W hub converstion kits and im wondering if you have any preference of wheel size? I realise 26" will accelerate the fastest, and 29" will have highest top speed. Im mostly going to commute to work on street but i also mountain bike so may take it on an easy XC trail sometimes. As ive only tried 250W hubs before i was wondering your reccomendation as im not sure how the torque would handle a 29" or if one wheel size is better for batter use. Thanks alot

[@MartinSTI02]

How about 27.5? :D

[@shaneellasdaicastrestorati3675]

Have you ever tried lipo battery out of laptops? I'm putting together a e scooter and Iv made two 4s packs but not yet tested them

[@aaron1278]

If I gave you my whyte t129 how much could you make it in to that for me ? How many miles do you think you would get out of it

[@Strange_Brew]

I use pure silver in building my packs. Makes a difference. Cells seem to work in concert better.

[@sparkiekosten5902]

Looks like you hit the magic 4KW rating on that motor. I think 50MPH is plenty fast. but that acceleration must be insane. maybe you could get by by running a single sprocket at the rear. Kind of a waste though. you spend all that money on a mid drive and use it like a hub motor. Vortecks didn't upload a video last week. I hope he is ok. Hopefully he sees this video and helps you out with your request. Keep up the good work!

[@djshauny1264]

Hi mate. Im new to ebikes. I got a 1500w conversion kit from ebay. What would be the best battery to buy for the best range? Many thanks in advance. Cheers mate. :)

[@Luk1000slowracer]

Hi, ive a question, i have a 48v 10amh ebike battery with a BMS, ive come across an issue, ive checked some of the cells and they are around 3.1v and the rest are at 4.2v, my charger cuts out and doesnt charge every cell to full, im thinking my BMS has broken, also if the BMS is broken can i fix the problem by just simply replacing the BMS and then it will balanceall the cells? Thanks

[@texasspinesurgeon]

Do the hot part off the battery... then spot weld after?

[@YoYo-di4rl]

Where did u get that dirt bike like casing mate? Looks amazing

[@curtisbtw1810]

Love ya videos x

[@ahaveland]

Huge amount of work to make a decent battery... I'm still staring at my half built 14S48P pack for months now! Surprised you got so much performance out of just 3P, and hope they'll last! Wondering if a triangular 4P pack would have fitted in the space, but I'm pretty sure you're not going to redo it after all that work!

[@gerardjachymiak5822]

48p?

[@Home_made_ch]

You sure it is 48p?

[@ahaveland]

@@Home_made_ch Yes. 14S48P = 672 cells, about 30kg and about 5.5 kWh. To go in a trailer.

[@gerardjachymiak5822]

@@ahaveland sexy

[@Strange_Brew]

I use the same soldering iron (it’s for stained glass!) I use military silver wire and silver content solder. Silver is the key to my

[@PiotrBagniewski]

What turned out to be for the max speed after all the mods?

[@nickbigg84]

Very cool Andy..

[@UToobSteak]

Is it skipping a tooth, or is the motor rocking? I've seen mid drives move back and forth a bit.

[@Fellafoe69]

Its a bafang ultra it cant move back and forth

[@peterdewey3395]

Hi Andy, where did you buy the cells from? Cheers

[@jorgelara-dw6ke]

excellent job🔥

[@noorbabelli]

Kindly question dose this work with 12speed bicycle (marline 8 3rd gen ) 2023 ??

[@alesaxasilva9173]

Obrigado amigo, vc é o cara

[@andykirby]

😁🤝

[@themagicillusions]

You’re supposed to route the brake hose on the inside of the fork legs or it might get damaged/crimped in case of a crash

[@jaytothesun99]

Phil Rossetti Do you really think this man fears damage?

[@a-aron2276]

Yanno i had my doubts with that tape on the last pack you did, but yanno what yourself and Tony V are on to something with it, its tensile strength and abrasion resistance is off the friggen charts, just finished building mine too, a 14s 9p pack made with 35e cells, my bike can now rip the streets for about 85-95km, and i mean Ripping, i had to get a new motor already, i started to pop spokes😂😂 I'll fix it up but im the meantime getting a 3kw motor, the 1.5kw was getting too much mechanical abuse, it's electrically fine though. And that bike is Unreal, its the kinda thing where a e enduro bike is fine but that power in a bicycle is something else👍🏼

[@andykirby]

Sounds like a lot of fun! Yeah the fibreglass tape is extremely strong, we used to use it on our FlightPower LiPo packs back in the RC days.

[@a-aron2276]

@@andykirby that bike though holy shit, looking forward to finding out how you're gonna do the cassette, cassettes are the one thing thats holding me back from a mid drive, I'd go direct to the hub but i like the freedom you get with the gears to up some serious hills. Just realised too that the end of my first message i was talking about your own bike not mine👍🏼

[@andykirby]

Yeah I all honesty you don’t need gears with this much power if you find the sweet spot between acceleration and top speed. It’s difficult to get both as every motor/controller setup has a max RPM but you can probably do it with just 2 gears. Hub motors are a great all round solution and I love my 14kW hub bike but there’s something cool about how a mid drive feels. I think it’s the bikes balance and the fact the rear wheel isn’t heavy.

[@112deeps]

Belt drive with internal hub gear! Nice vid

[@VoodooDewey69]

This guy is the Dr. Frankenstein of e-bikes,insane .🚴🚴🚴🚴🚴🚲🚲🚴🚴🚲🚲🏁🏁

[@dtiydr]

Take some say 320 grit sandpaper on the surface of the place you would solder on and it will wet perfectly since there is a lot of oxides on them.

[@akaifriendly7209]

wow. you should send me a ike to test in my country. lots of hills and terrain in the Caribbean! interesting vid

[@roysmid2137]

Good show ,be carful !

[@waelkmail6133]

Can i add a front electric wheel to my assist rear e bike?

[@leeedwards6791]

well done andy

[@jonneilsmyth9107]

was going to go with thease cells andy advised but am looking for a 74v 21A and 74v 30 A SET UP configuration as im alittle confused andy said them two packs its a 9AH abattery but can pull a fast 100 ah can anyone explain please as i dont want to waste money doing the wrong thing should i just phone or contact andy ??

[@ericmcginnis9413]

Hello, new to your channel and to the whole thought of going electric! I had plans on motorizing a bike but because of the laws here in my state I have decided to go electric! That said, what hub motor would you recommend ! G would like to spend as little as possible but still want better quality! I thought about viola but I'm all out honesty I don't know enough about any of them! I have heard that the yescomm only last for about one year! No the other hand others are just so pricey!

[@louloup4607]

some of you knows about theebiketor 3000w 72v kit ? is it good ? i'm looking for this kind of motorisation for my bike you think i can go on this ?

[@bobpatty2937]

Your enthusiasm has ruined me! The energy you put into your vids is inspiring. I believe my craving for torque was finally satisfied when I complimented your mid drive setup with a Qs 205#3 fed by a Sabo 72150. Two 72v30ah batteries in parallel feeds the monster. Keep up the good work!

[@2kMario]

For soldering this thick cables you need at least 100Watts , 150Watts is more proper one . I am using 200Watts 8 years old soldering rod. And for good custom shape battery pack use 18650 Battery Spacer in that bag I can easy put 14s7p 52V 23Ah pack

[@JoseRodriguez-en8bo]

Hey kirby,I I was thinking of buying that 8000W rear bike rim and a 72V battery and then the controller (I think it's called) and install it all on a regular mountain bike.....is it doable? And what do you think the rate of speed would be on a regular bike? ..please help me....

[@Surfratglass]

Excited for the new tesla batteries to make their way to EBikes. One cell will be great as opposed to all these cells to have to solder. Good work! Excited to see the outcome.

[@msahakim]

Andy, I want to learn to build e bikes like you.

[@jamiehammond7401]

Very nice off road machine.

[@saruch1859]

Where can I buy this power switch link please

[@ashtonzanella6971]

Finally a vid with no ads I liked

[@recumbentrocks2929]

What do you mean, that you only like videos with adverts you don't like?

[@BH4x0r]

that 35A cable is meant for permanent constant draw home/industrial installations, if you don't care for a tiny bit of extra heat (it has no insulation on it) even 2.5mm² would be fine for 35A thicker is always better obviously (less voltage sag and heat)

[@mariuszanfir2298]

Is this with the original motor? The one that comes with the kit? If so, electric motors confuse me... How can it develop so much more torque without breaking?!

[@Andaeldiabloitsomar]

Whats the max you would say you can get from that bafang ultra mid drive motor?

[@battery_solar_ev]

goes to show when the battery is built for the load good things happen. You may be able to reduce the voltage drop a bit more by doubling the ground to the bms like it was to start with and double your output wire as well a 2 volt drop is not that bad but i think it could be bit less with a few more adjustments. If keeping the XT60 is necessary let that be your only weak link in the build rather than anything to do with the battery. Nice work by the way!

[@andykirby]

Thanks man, good points, the battery cable to the XT60 isn’t too big either, that could do with being doubled up too. Maybe later down the line I’ll use a bigger controller as this clearly isn’t stressing the motor or the battery... the drivetrain on the other hand 😂

[@yakz9885]

I put xt150 on everything.

[@andykirby]

Yeah I would if I could but the controller has an XT60 socket.

[@MegaNayton]

@@andykirby you can buy an Xt60 to xt90 connection I believe I've seen them on amazon as well as ebay rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F133041580319