I built these beginner tools because they told me not to

Big thanks to NorthOne for partnering with us on this video! Use my link to apply for NorthOne and get a FREE $10 credit when you open and fund your account: bit.ly/Lincolnst
There are certain tools and jigs that you can either build, or buy. Some you might not need at all. Lets find out.
Table saw safety refresher: • 60,000 injuries per year
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[@lewisdye1002]

As a "retired" cabinet maker with 50 years experience, I watch a lot of videos to see if really useful info is being passed down to the newcomers, and finding quite a bit of not really true and some outright WRONG. Your rundown in this vid is truly helpful and well organized and will be recommended in my upcoming article on the best 15 advice video sources currently online. Best to you on your continuing success.

[@rpor984]

Hello, where will you post the article ?

[@FrogNamedKitty]

Same, I'd love to see that article

[@lewisdye1002]

@@rpor984 I am in process of establishing a YT channel, hopefully very soon. Probably titled "The Wood Butcher".

[@brewtalityk]

wow thanks for finding the WRONG information.

[@pocket83squared]

In defense of the KZbin presenter, nailing down just what's "true" can be a slippery process. First of all, explaining the truth means mentioning lots of details, and that takes time. Nobody wants to watch an endless explanation. Not all procedures can boil down to one simple solution. Second, it takes some, well, hyperbole to survive here. In terms of views (if you want to get any), you'll have to use _some_ combination of clickbait, sponsorships, and novel presentation ideas. Old-school woodworking shows that spend full minutes on chisel procedure simply don't grab here in the attention economy. We want lots, fast. But providing it often means truth-stretching. Finally, experience is not always a solid indicator of truthful content. With 50 years of cabinetry behind you, you're carrying a whole lot of _shop specific_ procedural biases with you. Don't take this as an attack: if you still have all ten, then you'll already have some of my respect; but it _is_ possible for one to have 50 years of doing some things "WRONG" behind them. You'll find serious differences about how to do things around here, but the one thing that has almost certainly become dated is procedural dogma. Sorry to say this, but truth ends up being relative to some extent: find me an 'always,' and I'll find you an exception to it. *Edit for italics.

[@halsonger1317]

For miter slot runners I buy plastic cutting boards at the thrift store for a dollar or two each, then cut them to width on the table saw. They are fairly slick so slide easily and never wear out or change width with the seasons.

[@starseeddeluxe]

The metal shops also sell nylon and will cut strips for you. They also have graphite impregnated nylon, which is much more slippery and it's designed for heavy wear, sliding applications or bushings. You can just look up your local steel yard that sells bulk metals, they will have the nylon on the shelf. If you can't find one in your area, you can visit Alcobra Metals, I'm sure they can ship it to you. I've purchased some strange materials from them, and they've been very helpful. Alcobra Metals has "precision laser" cutting of the materials you buy, so you can give them the exact runner width.

[@rickhayhoe]

Yes! Although I recently bought a plank of HDPE of a length that allows use on some large jigs or to get multiples of shorter length runners with one cut. I'll have that plastic plank for a good while before using it all up. The cutting boards I looked at before ordering the HDPE were too thin and often warped, recent developments made in China, plus they were too short for a larger crosscut sled I needed to make.

[@B_Van_Glorious]

I came to say the same thing. Decent cutting boards, like you see in a restaurant, are UHDPE and won't flex with humidity. One cutting board from the restaurant supply store and I made 15 pairs. I made every jig I could think of, gave a couple sets to neighbors, and I'm still got 6 or 7 of them in a drawer. I pull em out to act as Rubio sticks every now and then. Now I'm upgrading past that, and building in linear rails so I just have a sliding table top when I want it.

[@johnnichols8553]

@@rickhayhoe Same here I bought a small piece of HDPE off Amazon, which was enough to make runners for my crosscut sled, plus leftover for anything in the future. I did the hardwood route on an old sled, and they did indeed get tighter in the summer (no AC in garage, in Houston area).

[@markoesterling5257]

Corian makes excellent runners. I bought a vanity off Craigslist that had a Corian top for $10. I just wanted that piece of Corian. Slice her right up into runner blanks and took half of it to be a router table top.

[@prongATO]

I'll give you this, that's one of the best ad-placements/reads I've ever seen. I really appreciate when creators advertise with companies and products their viewers might actually use.

[@kingofcastlechaos]

In the 70's-80's we built a lot of our own shop machinery. Fine Woodworking even has a book about it called "Making and Modifying Machines". The new CNC routers and stuff like that are mind blowing for those of us in the business over 40-50 yrs. Cool video, thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@numberkruncherr]

My DIY circular saw guide has rubber non slip strips underneath it. Festool rubber strips to be precise. I routed two 1.5mm deep channels for it so the guide can squeeze it enough to come into contact with the workpiece. It works very well.

[@chasm9557]

I think that two overlooked jigs for when you're working with longer pieces of material are infeed and outfeed extensions for the table saw. If you don't have much shop space, you can make the extensions with support legs on hinges to allow them to close flat and store in narrow spaces.

[@lamothe87]

I do love the number of tools listed as unbuildable because it is crazy while Mathias Wandell says "hold my meds" building hilariously complex machine tools that work great 😂

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

That becomes a core question though; do you want to build wood working projects or do you want to build wood working machines?

[@houseofkendama2930]

Why not both?​@@barrylinkiewich9688

[@Lincolnstww]

Anything is possible. I’m of the opinion beginners should learn to build before building tools though

[@aberba]

If you know how to build without building tools, then you already have tools. Why build tools again?​@@Lincolnstww Tool build is for those beginning without tool budget

[@Hybridog]

I don't want to build tools - ever, and that includes jigs. I would much rather buy something made by a company, something that will be straight and accurate and maybe have a warranty. I made a cross cut sled and don't really like it. I plan to buy one from Incra or similar to replace it one day. I want to make things, not tools.

[@nolandenton1224]

Absolutely agree on the router table issue. I got a work anniversary gift card right when I started woodworking. I sank several hundred $ into a Kreg router table top and fence, a DowelMax lift lid, a Bosch 1617, and a purchased portable router cart plan that incorporates dust collection, bit storage, etc (you know the one). Eight years later, I have used the Bosch once (needed the plunge base), never built the cart, and have used the crap out of my Dewalt trim router I later got on sale at Big Box. I’m cutting the Kreg table top down to fit into my table saw and adding a JessEm lift because I’m just now getting into a series of projects where I need a fixed table. I sure could’ve used that cash for better quality cordless drill/drivers and jigsaw, and a high quality table saw miter gauge.

[@kevinbourke7800]

Appreciate your crisp, frank and honest info & opinions!

[@Lincolnstww]

I appreciate that!

[@hoboactual]

Ditto.

[@rickhayhoe]

@@hoboactual -- Aaaand . . . Ditto.

[@nehennings]

EXCELLENT video, and I could not agree more with each call. I went through this video twice, and I've personally either bought, made, or didn't buy every single one of these tools. Totally nailed it!

[@Lincolnstww]

Thanks for the double watch!

[@davidcurtis5398]

I've had my saw guide for over 20 years and it is still as good as when I made it. It's made out of 1/4 inch plywood with a 1/2 inch saw guide and 2 clamps. My table saw's push blocks are all free and made of either a 2 X 4 or a 2 X 6 with a removable handle. When they get all tore up, I take the handle off and make a new one. Been wood working since I was 10 ( now I am 76 ) and have yet to make my first cross cut sled. I've never bought one either. Again made the router table and it has lasted through 2 routers over 20 years and is ready for a new router. And no I don't have a lift... Hey, the first clamp I saw had a shaft on one end. Where did you get this clamp??? Please!!! Got my corner clamps from Rockler. Plastic but they do work... Do wish I had a drum sander but I no longer do that much work and it wold be a lost money item now!! Actually, I would like to have a small drum sander rather than my thickness planer. I have 2 benches. One was my Dad's and is over 75 years old and the other one I made many years ago. Both are made from 2 X 4 and 2 X 8 lumber and have hard board tops. When they get dinged past using, all I have to do is add another top piece of hard board. Ought a new jointer 30 years ago - no bath when I sell it. I would like to convert to the newer cutters but a set would cost me about twice as much as I paid for the unit new... Nice video and one that I actually like.

[@rhshel]

The gripper is the very best safe tool I have ever seen. I saw my first one at a wood show and bought it. I later bought the second one after using it. I recommend it to everyone!

[@Stacky18]

Im with you, its one of the best tools I have ever bought.

[@Scoob609]

Yup, dangerous clickbait implying otherwise with his title and thumbnail.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Has a fatal flaw. Does not work with a blade guard. And you should never rip without a blade guard. Never. Ever.

[@Marcus_pePunkt]

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Exactly!

[@billm9775]

For the times when you need to run without a blade guard the gripper is a great safety tool. I love mine. Horrible thumb nail though.

[@JasonEllingsworth]

one important thing is considering why you would even build a cross cut sled, compared to using a miter saw. What is much more valuable, is a jig like the one you had along the wall, that can ride along the fence and hold material at whatever angle you need, or even just give you a square edge for joining. Rip on a table saw, and cross cut on a miter saw. Cut curves and rough cuts on thick lumber on a band saw. Every tool has its place to keep you from losing a finger doing something dumb. I can't think of a single use case for cross cutting small material on a table saw.

[@coolbugfacts1234]

"you can't build a jointer" matthias wandel: "hold my Molson"

[@kd9856]

No the average person can't but if you own a machine shop you sure can I know

[@coolbugfacts1234]

@@kd9856 Matthias doesn't have a machine shop, he only recently got a metal lathe.

[@kingofcastlechaos]

In the 70's-80's we built a lot of our own shop machinery. Fine Woodworking even has a book about it called "Making and Modifying Machines".

[@Ashitaka1110]

Most people are genius Canadian tool wizards though.

[@waterbuck]

For a new woodworker, a table saw is probably the most intimidating tool. The Gripper Ripper makes the table saw less intimidating. For that reason it's a buy. Safety tools/devices are one area that you don't or shouldn't go cheap or skip.

[@halakon666]

32 here, i got into wood working as a hobby and i bought one of these since i always buy PPE. First day of using it, i got distracted and it caught the blade, flung across my basement, and my wife looked at me surprised. “This is exactly why i always buy safety equipment,i don’t care if i look dumb.” Is something I’ve always told her. That day, she understood why i have so much respect for the machines that we use and never get comfortable around them. I have youtube to thank for this xD Guns, construction, diy, i got lucky to grow up seeing people that did things in a safe way.

[@WoodNerds]

Great video for beginners! “One is more ultimate than the next” gave me a chuckle.

[@debandmike3380]

two years ago I bought 106 inch festool rail from US tool and fastener for $345, free shipping. that exact same product at the exact same store is now $465 plus $250 shipping so now it is more than double the price to order online. geeeeez. glad I bought it when I did.

[@BenNawrath]

Pro for the drum sander: anything you do is with effective dust collection! I made a high chair. A bunch of pieces the same length and/or width. All of them came off the table saw and went thru the drum sander with 100 grit. It was great.

[@FatTony071984]

My tip is to buy a used jointer handplane. It's the only handplane I regularly use. I mostly use sheet goods and the handheld jointer allows me to build the occasional rough lumber project. I pay premium at the sawmill for "prepared" pieces, but that's totally worth it for the time saved.

[@GaryT1952]

Going to be a good day if it starts with a LSW vid!

[@timcottom8397]

Nice! A video that gives excellent advice and is actually geared for the beginner. Nice job ST !!! Timothy

[@kurtporath9878]

This is great I am a newbie on a budget. Thanks for clearing up some of the confusion regarding what I need and will use, opposed to what I want (which is everything)

[@wesbrownmd]

I made my bandy clamps from $0.99 spring clamps from home depot plus a couple of bike inner tubes cut into pieces. The right size tube makes for a perfect friction fit over the jaw of the clamp, and now I have about 15 of them for maybe $25 all-in. And they have lasted me for years

[@markhutton6824]

A very useful video... I wish I had the space most American woodworkers have. In the UK I have a 12'x6' shed that stores all my materials and tools, the two luxury tools (mitre saw on a stand and a table saw, both DeWalt), so unless I am doing something tiny I have to work in the back garden which means relying on good weather and when it comes to having a flat surface to build gates, doors or fences then I am either on the drive way (which isn't good due to our traveler community living near buy) or using insulation panels to try and create a flat surface on the garden bench I built. I am rambling... love your videos... wish I had your space!

[@fogsmart]

25 years teaching adult avocational woodworking and making and teaching other courses on jig making, I’ve perfected my approach to some of these issues with respect to the tablesaw and safe, accurate cuts. Having tried a number of mitre slot runners I’ve settled on machined steel. I get my drilled and tapped by a local machinist that does it cheap out of his home. While I tend to use either Baltic birch or tight grained hard maple, I use as much aluminum as possible as there’s no annual movement. KM tools has a new jig to assist creating kerfs that are dead square to the fence. A bit expensive for me. They also have CNC machined fence parts. I still prefer a diy fully methodology. Jigs don’t have to be fancy but it’s all subjective. I make all my own push sticks as many of the commercial units have plasticizers that break down with time and UV exposure. I’ve heard of injuries and close calls on FB woodworking group comments. I did buy a Dubby Table years ago that I appreciated when still a greenhorn. My favourite tool I love is my Dowelmax dowling jig. I use it every day.

[@deeeeeds]

Great video but I think you missed one of the biggest downsides to using the gripper - you can’t use the blade guard with it. While I love the control it gives me, it does leave your spinning blade exposed after a cut where a a more conventional push stick with the blade guard may have it covered. On saws that take a bit to stop spinning I think it’s a real consideration. For me, the control is absolutely worth the downsides and the only time I don’t use one is if I’m intentionally pushing my push block through the blade like your showed.

[@cameronmcewen9553]

I love my 12" jointer planer combo sure switching it is mildly inconvient but damn that thing is a beast and worth every dollar.

[@kreech68]

Great video - and I agree with all of the verdicts! I still don't have a DIY workbench, but I was able to find a VERY usable commercial work-table, and have built a Moxon vise to sit on top. I allows me to do lots of smaller projects.

[@prrk47002]

I laminate two layers of luan 1/4” (which it’s thinner than) together for my runners. Once cut to size, I’ve had no problems with wood movement in them. And I almost always have scraps in the shop.

[@andrewmo49]

My gripper has a few nicks in it. It didn’t explode and I didn’t get blood on my saw. Totally worth it.

[@axdext]

Hands down my favorite woodworking channel! Keep up the good work, please and thank you 😊

[@Lincolnstww]

Wow, thanks!

[@quantumleap8888]

You may want to expand your horizons

[@cyberjohn44]

Excellent video. Surprise didn't mention the use of feather boards especially with the table saw.

[@fishhuntadventure]

I’ve come a long way in the years since my 1986 woodworking debut. Norm Abram provided some inspiration, though I couldn’t muster the budget at the time to mimic his tool depth. I didn’t even get a tablesaw until 1993. However, I did discover I could build jigs and homemade tool assists that had me reaching for ever more complex challenges. Of course there is no replacement for some tasks a tablesaw does so effortlessly and efficiently. And to this day I seldom use my biscuit joiner - but it is so useful for certain things I’d rate it as nearly indispensable- as I also feel about my Kreg setup (which is also seldom used unless I’m doing kitchen cabinet carcasses). There is very little outside of a tablesaw and mitre saw that you can’t make a ‘jig’ to do with no cost. 2:07 track saw I have several 1/8” x 6” lengths of aluminum for a saw guide, but the Jim Tolpin book showed me the “back to back” clamp and I built a number of guides/jigs for the router and circular saw inspired by his kitchen cabinet book. 4:42 sleds are so valuable to me but I’ve never found a manufactured one that seemed useful enough to expend the cash for. Tablesaw blades: buying $150-$300 blades did way more for my work than dropping $450 on a manufactured tablesaw sled. As far as jointers: a $200-ish hand plane jointer does what an electric jointer would do - better. Unless you are a production shop there’s no need. However!! Having not purchased any new tools in a long time, I’m collecting pennies right now because probably the most valuable productivity booster for my current work would be a surface planer. And there’s a crop of decent 8” and 10” combo jointers that incorporate the machinery for a thickness planer. I almost never need a 10-12” or wider thickness planer because it’s usually 1-1/2” to ~6”+ that I’m working with, or tabletops. So for very little (relatively) money $800-$1200 getting a combo thickness and jointing planer makes sense. Planing to thickness can be done electrically and then trued up in seconds with an antique smooth plane. Buying stuff stops you from building and discovering- and the discovery that you can hand tool or use a shopmade jig in 10 minutes for very little investment, versus 5-7 minutes with a high-investment machine puts money in your pocket and doesn’t make your work outcomes machine dependent. Another discovery with my now 30-year-old too small delta tablesaw is that with nice blades I consistently work and produce quality and précis way past the capabilities of that saw. Just buying jigs often keeps your work from being its best because tools and gizmos generally keep you producing at the performance limits of the tools. I learned that principle- not in those exact words- from Mike Dunbar in the 1990’s. Thanks, Mike!

[@PhillyFixed]

I got a great deal on the Makita 36V cordless track saw and used it with a cheapo Wen track when rebuilding my deck. Definitely one of those "why didn't I buy this sooner?!?" purchases.

[@Benoit83B]

Pretty new to your channel amd man I'm NOT disappointed! Love your content, honesty and "get to the point" format! Have a great day!

[@Dobilay]

The gripper is the BEST safety tool out there for a table saw

[@quirkygreece]

I use plastic chopping boards for tablesaw sled runners - just cut a strip (or two) and sneak up on the correct size as you wuld for wood. They are pretty frictionless, eliminate the problems of wood movement and they are cheap and easily obtainable. The only drawback might be the length if you want long runners, but they are perfect for jobsite saws and you can always use two in one slot if you want longer runners, of course . . . or, I guess any plastic would work if you can get longer lengths.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

Man I love your channel. This video was a perfect example of why. You aren’t pretentious & haughty, you are humble and straightforward. No fancy (read: distracting) music or speedy edits. No, you clearly explain your topic & stay 100% on point. Best of all, you speak from experience, with an emphasis on practicality. I’ve never regretted watching (almost) everything you produce. Thank you for continuing to make us better makers, and, in this video, helping us to make better tool decisions. Totally agree with the hidden value of making shop “furniture.” Making your own can be a real skills building experience. You can then apply that experience to making something nice for yourself, the folks you love, or your customers. It’s a win - win. But please don’t build your own workbench. Buy a bench customized to your needs, height, space constraints, etc. - from me. Sorry for my self promotion. Well, as you might say: #not sorry. Lastly, nice job showing the shots of Eric Spenceley (sp.?) & 731 Woodworks. They too are on my short list of trusted channels.

[@Lincolnstww]

Thank you very much!

[@robertbentley8669]

Good vid. For budget pressured hobby woodworkers, safety gear (like the Microjig Grrripper) make great gift ideas. Don't want to spend bucks on a Magsafe featherboard? Ask for one for your birthday! Same for jig gear like mitre sled runners, hold-down clamps, etc.

[@thewestendwoodworker]

Another great video Jon. I have used your other videos on shop tools to make purchases. So far you are right on! thank you.

[@JohnDlugosz]

16:00 having a clamp sled for the table saw can be used for more than jointing. The same jig is used for cutting an odd edge straight. For slabs, you'll use a track saw for that. But for small hardwood boards that are a little wonky after drying and storing, you use a clamp sled.

[@coolabahwoodworking]

As usual no bulsh*** kinda funny woodworking advice. Thanks man. Great video

[@CoreyShockey]

I used to fall for a lot of the "tools you need more than oxygen " type videos. I bet i fell for at least 741 of them. But I enjoyed your approach here. Some things can wait, and others are so specific that many builders will never need them. Thanks for taking a more balanced look at this expesive issue.

[@schechnera]

Excellent rundown, and I agree with all of your conclusions except MAYBE the runners...I've always made my own (lately from PVC trim scraps) and they work great. Thanks!

[@cinnabarsin4288]

Grripper I cannot recommend enough, literally saved my hand at least once when I screwed up my setup. Push sticks are still better for some situations but for most situations it gives so much more control and separation from the blade. Good featherboards are another thing that I can't recommend enough and had no idea how much of a difference they made until I needed to make a cut I couldn't manage to do safely without getting them and it opened my eyes. Safety and quality of my cuts went way up on my job site saw.

[@jimrosson6702]

Another great video always look forward to seeing your videos Thanks for sharing as a new woodworker it’s easy to get lost in all the tools you should or shouldn’t buy

[@davidattias4166]

Great video, so for the track saw, I’ve seen a video where they use an aluminum tile edging strip as the straight edge and attached it to a length of plywood.

[@ksnax]

I recommend building the GRipper as well. It's a very simple thing to replicate in functionality. I made mine from scrap wood and 1/4-20 hardware with nothing else special to it aside from the EPDM I used for the foot rails.

[@magmar7118]

I bought a mortising machine because I saw a good advertisement, it looked really cool, and I thought I’d use it a lot. Three years later I used it once! Still keeping it because I can afford the minimal space it takes up.

[@Lincolnstww]

Seems like a common theme with that tool

[@JohnDlugosz]

15 or 20 years ago, before tracksaws were the popular thing but there were a couple high-priced ones out, I bought a track kit that has a sled that can be mounted on your own circular saw. The track has other accessories such as an arm for your router, extensions, and whatnot. It's a middle budget intermediate between the shop-made zero-clearance fence and an expensive tracksaw.

[@inspiringbuilds]

Great video! I think I built, bought, or passed on all of these as you mentioned. A planer is more than enough for most and can serve the same purpose as a jointer with a little more work. I would add a table saw as I wish I would have bought one sooner. 👍

[@williamgates4399]

UHMW Crosscut Sled For Table Saw Sled Miter Bars 3/4" X 3/8" X 36" -Predrilled holes and 20 screws included For Jigs Fixtures or Miter Slots (size 3/4"x3/8") 2 UHMW Bars works excellent. I installed these when I made my crosscut sled over four years ago, and the bars are still tight and no wobble. On Amazon.

[@pinkytaylor5845]

Thank you for your sincere wish to instruct and generally help.😊❤

[@drunowakowski4880]

I been woodworking for 15 years. You touch on all good points on what not to do. 👍

[@Lincolnstww]

Right on

[@timothymbess]

If you're looking for a micro jig gripper or any of their other push blocks but are worried about the cost, there are some halfway decent knockoffs you can find online. Fair warning, some of the knockoffs are utter trash but you can generally see which ones are made out of the denser plastic and save yourself a few bucks. Or you can just add it to your holiday shopping list and let a family member buy it for you for Christmas or a birthday. I like to keep a wish list on Amazon of potential Jigs and smaller tools under 50 bucks so that family members always have a few ideas of things they can get me without having to drop 600 bucks on a planer

[@BeneWoodworks]

Great video mate, thank you. All your content is useful and honest, please keep it up! 👍

[@CompleteMisc]

I think you absolutely nailed this - spoken as someone who also made most of the mistakes!

[@arnehermann3417]

The Microjig Grrrripper is possibly the best Cdn$80 I've spent on my shop. Seriously, it is a wonderful tool and not just because when used correctly it's an amazing safety improvement but also because it ups your accuracy by an astonishing amount. No more does my workpiece jog off the fence when ripping and the thing just never slips. Be aware that it is not really intended for long rips though; for that you should use a bladeguard, featherboard and a grippy push paddle and shoe. Oh, and I really only use this where a bladeguard doesn't work; typically when you're ripping a small amount off a narrow board.

[@BuildwithMooney]

BUILD! I use mine more than the expensive ones for sure. Nice job on the video!

[@johnnyb95678]

Thank you for the very straight forward, common sense approach to help people make decisions. Thank you!

[@PuhChewEChomp]

I made my work bench from scrap construction wood, pallets, and a thrown out bunk bed that had crazy flat MDF boards.

[@mattelias721]

Of all the 'recommendation/wish I'd known' format videos I've seen, I like this best. Solid recommendations. The ONLY thing I'd suggest is that if you teach yourself to edge and prep wood without a jointer, then you've just enabled a lot of other key purchases in the meantime. It's time consuming and a PITA, but a worthwhile skill.

[@bunkie2100]

I don't regret buying my Festool track saw. A few years back, I had built a plywood guide for my circular saw and then happily sawed up a whole bunch of sheets of maple veneer plywood for the kitchen remodel I was doing. Everything went great until I realized that my cut lines were curved because my plywood edge guide was bending from the pressure of keeping the saw in place.

[@tpolarich6039]

Hi. I highly recommend a Festool track saw and a PARF jig instead of a table saw. A track saw is safer, dust collection is cheaper, it is more accurate, gives a better cut and is portable. For a workbench built a portable Moravian bench. You can customize it to fit your needs and budget. You can make one 4' or bigger, just don't make it bigger than you can move. It breaks down into 6 components. And there is no need to make it out of hard maple.

[@autoguygl]

Once again, great advice with explanations of both pro and con. Thank-you.

[@TL-pb6sz]

I have to disagree with the router table 'pass'. Rail and stile router bit set along with a router table is a must have IMHO. Not just for making doors but I've made lally column covers and baseboard heater covers that came out awesome. Great videos, keep them coming

[@leanwoodworks]

This was excellent work! Finally a popular KZbinr is doing what we need to see

[@Funknwanker]

A lot of KZbin woodworkers do these types of videos.

[@hansangb]

I think people don't take into consideration how use the Gripper can be. The thin stock guide you showed, the adjustable height etc. Another great practical video!

[@abad_gtr1123]

excellent vid. as someone who just got into woodworking the past couple of years...really couldn't agree more with all of your takes. the track saw was definitely a game changer for me....having used those clamp-on type guide rails with a circular saw proved cumbersome and time consuming to set up. the gripper has also proven its value...it provides much stability when passing pieces through on the table saw but can also be used to push pieces when using the jointer.

[@williamstead6354]

If you're just starting out, I'd say buy a good track saw and don't bother with a table saw, miter saw, etc. You can do pretty much everything from ripping thin strips of hardwood to cutting plywood with just the one saw. Best woodwork investment I ever made.

[@guitarchitectural]

I'd argue you don't even need a mitre saw at all unless you are a trim carpenter. I've been woodworking for 20 years and have never owned one. A track saw and a table saw with a crosscut sled is all you need

[@davidfigueroa1969]

This was probably the most useful tool evaluation video I've ever seen. It was -exactly- what I needed to see.

[@Lincolnstww]

Great to hear!

[@tonymonaghan5993]

I disagree with the drum sander. I think it one of the most useful tools in the shop.

[@nicokwapper]

Thanks, that is hugely helpfull

[@richardducati]

The no nonsense approach tou have......so refreshing....and useful!

[@Lincolnstww]

I appreciate that!

[@TrevorDennis100]

I'll have to take issue with what you said about jointer/planers, because I find mine is one of my favourite tools. In fact, mine is a combination 10" jointer thicknesser with a helical head, but it spends most of it's time in jointer mode. I love that I can run a sawn edge through the jointer to make it perfectly flat and square ready for glue up. I love the beautiful finish the helical head can create. Another major plus for a jointer is that they do not snipe like a thicknesser. In fact, I always leave enough thickness from the thicknesser to make a pass with the jointer to remove even the slightest trace of snipe. BTW I consider helical heads to be essential in a home shop unless your nearest neighbour is a quarter mile or more from you. Helical heads are way quieter. They produce small chips rather than long strands, so they don't clog your dust extraction. They produce a better finish. You get four fresh cutting edges from a set of inserts (handle with care - they are surprisingly sharp).

[@AngieWilliamsDesigns]

This is great. Very helpful. I bought a used 6” jointer. It was at a great price. But I have quickly outgrown it. Glad i paid the use price since I will need to upgrade. I think an 8” would be the minimum I’d get.

[@squareandlevel]

Thanks for sharing your insight and opinions. I’m about to purchase a belt driven sander for the my shop. It has more uses than you mentioned and will be very helpful in the projects I build personally. I also feel of all the tools I’ve purchased, the one that increased the quality/precision of projects the most is without a doubt the used 8” jointer I picked up. Thanks for talking about buying used tools. I think people feel overwhelmed and discouraged from this craft due to the cost when it can actually be fairly cheap if you are patient and willing to drive a bit. Thanks again for all the information. Great video.

[@Danman1972]

Lucked out. My brother purchased a used ridgid table saw. It came with a incra sled set up and miter gauge. He didn't want it so he gifted it to me. I use a cheaper thin kreg jig push stick with a nice molded handle a magnet that sticks to the saw. Just wish my saw had a riving knife.

[@boldnotbald3705]

Thank you so much for this video it’s come at the perfect time for me as I’m planning my workbench right now and coming to most of these same conclusions. It was really comforting to hear your own thoughts on it echo most of mine.

[@adamanderson1212]

As the person who bought your old router table, I must say that I love using it. I've been redoing the cabinet section, but I've had to put that project on pause many times. Overall, the router table is fun, scary as hell (router), and a lot of work to redo the cabinet section to meet my needs

[@BriantreVino5]

Incredible video, I really appreciate all the helpful information!

[@RyanWattersRyanWatters]

Awesome video! Another pro on the track saw is easier and more accurate* plunge cuts. *Emphasis on “easier and more accurate.” Anything can be a plunge saw if you believe in yourself and aren’t emotionally wedded to your appendages.

[@dennisstahl7621]

I enjoy your videos and especially your great sense of humor. Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work.

[@guybowers9094]

Great video and lots of insight into the pros and cons of the need for these tools

[@mburke1211]

I'm just an intermediate DIY boomer, and I think a track saw is possibly the most important tool in my shop. In addition to breaking down sheet goods with it, I also use it to "joint" long rough cut lumber, to supplement my crappy benchtop jointer.😊

[@starseeddeluxe]

Did you buy a track saw? Which one did you get? I bought a Flex 7 1/4" right blade 24 volt circular saw. with 10AH battery, and a 50" "True Grip" clamp on straight edge guide. With this setup I can do perfect cuts without any blade marks at all, the cut is perfect. The key is, if you're right handed, get a right blade saw, so when you're cutting, try to position your saw (when safe) so the blade is facing away from your body, blowing the sawdust down, and away from you. Having the blade facing you is easier to see, but it's not necessary when using a straight edge, plus the new right blade saws have a clear line of sight to the blade. If you use a worm drive saw, it will work fine, but many of them don't have a dust port, and they blow all of the dust back towards your eyes. People who use worm drive saws are generally commercial builders who are not concerned with dust. Or they are left handed. If you don't like dust, checkout the Flex 6 1/2" worm drive saw with belt drive, it has an adjustable dust port which blows the dust away from you, or into a vacuum. Or use a right blade saw! I tried 2 Milwaukee 7 1/4" right blade saws, with a straight edge guide, and both of the saws had a misaligned footplate that was 0.030" out of alignment, so I had to return both of them. There was no way to adjust the foot plate, and it was riveted and stamped with non-adjustable brackets. I ended up buying 2 different Flex circular saws, the 24 volt ones, and the foot plate on those is 0.000" aligned and the cuts are perfect. Not many saws have a cast aluminum foot plate, but you want a cast aluminum foot plate (not stamped aluminum). The cast aluminum won't scratch your straight edge guide. Bora makes nice straight edge guides too. They also make 8 foot long clamp on guides. For $55, you can get a straight edge guide, then you have a crude track saw!

[@mburke1211]

@@starseeddeluxe I bought the Makita on sale. It sounds like you got a nice tool there, I don't know if that was available when I was doing my research a year and a half ago or so. I was cutting rough white oak for a barn siding project, and this saw fit the bill at the time. Since then I use it all the time for various projects.

[@starseeddeluxe]

@@mburke1211 Wow. The Makita seems to be a super high quality saw. That was my first choice. I actually wanted the Makita 40 volt cordless saw because it's such a beast. But it was about twice the price of the Flex saw I bought. I don't see much white Oak here in WA state. I'm not even sure what it looks like haha.

[@rickhayhoe]

@@mburke1211 -- Makita 36V track saw and guides here too. Lots of use out of it, including for straight edges on rough cut timber and even crooked S4S boards too long to correct with my little 6" jointer. Bought the 36V because I've already invested in a big variety of Makita 18V power tools over the past five or six years and have lots of batteries and multiple chargers because I use those tools heavily. And . . . I live in Japan.

[@my1lastword]

For push sticks I don't think the microjig is a replacement for a shop made. It's also useful to use at other saws and jointers depending on how much dust has accumulated on the pads. For a lot of cuts I use a hand made shoe for that bit of edge grip or support without worrying about chipping into my work holder. The microjig is for those awkward cuts, stuff that is tall needs to be dead square, repeated strips or other areas where the fingers and adjustments shine. I also will use the microjig occasionally as just a bit more grip on wider rips to hold the work down to the table.

[@joebrkic7060]

Keep it up! These little videos are great thanks

[@toddplager8676]

Yeah, I have tons of tools I do not need lol!! Great videos and your open mind is refreshing.!! TY

[@johnford7847]

A very interesting commentary. I think the last 10 seconds are the most important. Good job. Thanks for sharing.

[@CrPio167]

Getting a cheap-ish makita tracksaw was a complete game changer for me for diy builds

[@weldabar]

For those of use with job-site table saws, I'm not convinced that buying a runner is the correct choice. Most of these saws have a plastic top and plastic groove. The adjustable-width purchased runners have set screws, and I think they will not work well riding against plastic. So purchasing a strip of HDPE is a good choice. Cutting boards could technically work but they are thin and small. In video talking about jointers, "It's not actully making this from scratch; that would be crazy." Ha ha, indeed. But that has not stopped certain KZbinrs from doing it (not recommended).

[@RJStockton]

The first time I saw a track saw I thought, "why the hell wouldn't I just get a circular saw and a straight edge?" I didn't realize at the time how many KZbin woodworkers were sponsored by Festool.

[@pcs5852]

I'm another member of the circular saw & straight edge club. I've been breaking down sheetgoods like that for 40 years. I like the tracksaws but they don't provide enough of a savings in time/ease of use to make them worth the money. To each his own.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

This. It's even crept down to the people who have maybe 30 or 40 minutes experience as "woodworkers" with a whole shop full of Koolaid colored tools. And if you want to see me riled, tell people they need a $1500 "domino" gizmo... Haha.

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

Ok, I'll be the guy who says that they're apples to oranges. Yep, both are fruit and both can get the same job done but if I needed to do a lot of rip and cross cutting on sheet goods (and couldn't use my unisaw) I'd shun my 3 circular saws and go buy a Kreg track saw in a real big hurry. Much quieter, much more consistent cuts, easier set up, better dust control, way way safer to do plunge cuts. You don't need to throw money away with both hands buying a Festool or whatever boutique brand but track saws do have their place.

[@nikburton9264]

KZbinr plywoodwoodworking has dozens of diy tracksaws. I've made a couple, and used a festool, and can't really tell the difference. Festool is way overrated

[@stlwoodworking]

Agree with almost everything. I am an outlier because I use my router table A LOT lol. Good video sir.

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

So much great advice thanks it’s appreciated

[@paulhunt598]

You did a good job on this video. I own both extensive wood shops and machine shops. I am almost 70, and I am still collecting tools, machinery and building my skill sets. Your suggestions are very good and helpful to me, and I already own some machinery that outclasses what you demonstrate (while you outclass me too). You didn't even get into drill presses, lathes, bandsaws, jigsaws, mitre saws, radial arm saws, pin routers, over arm routers, dust collection... I am on my 5th table saw (will probably keep my heavily modified and upgraded Delta), a PM66. I am on my 3rd wood lathe (PM90) and have 3 metal lathes. I have given away 3 premium drill presses, but currently still own 6. Currently own 7 bench/pedestal grinders, tooling grinders, but still don't own a track saw. I am on my 2nd jointer and 3rd planer. I own 4 bandsaws and have culled 3 entry level saws. I currently own 6 belt and disc sanders, but still don't own a proper oscillating spindle or belt sander. I have about a dozen premium routers, but no high end router table or lift, but I do have and used homebuilt router lifts/table and an entry level Delta factory built router shaper machine and a fancy over arm router. My 4600sf shop building upgrade allowed me to separate wood and metal shops. The machine shop is my current passion, and the woodshop is suffering neglect. I started acquiring shop tools and equipment around 1971. I have made many mistakes of inadequate and over purchases. My problem is that I want to do all subsets within several major disciplines WELL. That translates to mostly professional grade and often industrial grade tools and machinery. It also translates into a jack of all trades and master of few. I was an industrial maintenance technician (electrician/mechanic) in my career. I am purchasing and expanding my shop capacity at far greater rate in my retirement than I purchased for my professional career (and I I was known in my plant for owning the largest and best tool inventory). Your advice is applicable and welcome to me. Even though I already have 1T and 3T gantry hoist capacity, my son tempted me last night with a potential bridge crane addition opportunity. We may be in a shop soon dismantling the bridge crane! I collect, but also use, a wide variety of tools and equipment. I also take pleasure in setting up younger folks in their shops. I currently have 26 male offspring that I am buying for. The 27 girls get things that I make. I have made 9 hope chests for the girls with 12 more currently in queue. I have yet to build a tablesaw sled or proper out feed table. Too many hobbies and pending projects...

[@kingofcastlechaos]

Do your family a huge favor and do a walk around video talking about what absolutely everything is named and what it is worth in your opinion. The people we leave behind are stressed enough after we die, leaving a massive shop only compounds the pressure. Also, consider mentoring some young people outside your family to pass along your knowledge. You may very well change lives. I am over halfway in my mortal journey on this rock, but I learned early that disposing of loved one's belongings in a respectful way is really tough, best to have a person in mind to handle it all for them.

[@paulhunt598]

@@kingofcastlechaos I am trying to do your suggestion well. Passing on a legacy well has been one of my core values since the night that I became engaged to my wife. We have the will and estate transition planned and legally in place. I am involved in formally mentoring most of my tribe on at least a weekly basis. I have also written the beginnings of my life story on the off chance that some of my brood may care!

[@plawson91]

Track saws are also useful in edge jointing boards if you have a long enough track

[@deskbreaker]

Undersold track saws, imo they are a game changer and the saw itself is much higher quality than a normal circ saw. I get better cuts on mine than even my cheap table saw can do.

[@scottmorris4914]

Whats great with this video is, you give information, pros and cons, then your preference. But you leave it up to the woodworker. And they have enough information to decide.

[@Lincolnstww]

Thanks for noticing

[@jay-in-az]

You do good work! Excellent communicator