I CUT A HOLE IN MY BOAT! Replacing a leaking propeller shaft seal

[@jcfgh]

Really good job. That new hatch is absolutely necessary. Not being able to get to the stern gear where it goes through the hull is very very dangerous. You have made a big improvement to the vessel and there is no reason why the hatch should leak if it is sealed well. Happy Christmas! James

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching, it was good to get this replaced. 😎

[@mikefriend7570]

I smiled watching you attempting to execute the removal and replacement of the dry prop gland in such an inaccessible place. I own an H28 and had to cut a massive access hatch in the cockpit floor in order to access the prop shaft and rear end of the motor and gearbox. I have built a raised lip with a rubber sealing fitting cover so that if the boat takes a wave over the cockpit area it will not enter the bilge area before draining away. I’ve never regretted this addition since servicing and checking parts through this hatch area is so much easier. Really enjoying your posts!

[@samsails9820]

Thanks, the new hatch should keep the water out if fitted properly.

[@nigelw512]

Great video and explanation of what you were doing. Thanks for sharing.....All the best for Christmas and New Year.

[@ianmckay954]

Nice Job. The one worry for me would be the hatch which will take a lot of hefty footfall when stepping from the companionway down into the cockpit sole. I have seen many boats with that type of hatch cracked and leaking water - most worrying when the boat is left between sails. I would look at a beefier hatch or some means of strengthening the actual cover plate. I think that the one you used is designed for a side wall mount position not for a heavy traffic area. The only other fix would be a flooring grate over the whole cockpit floor which would probably be more costly than a sky facing deck hatch.

[@samsails9820]

Thats a good point raised, i haven't secured the lid yet so will think about ways to strengthen it.

[@bl00zbr0]

Top work Sam, it’s an odd thing, boats don’t seem designed to be worked on 😅

[@BlokeWithABoat-uh8nf]

Excellent work. I have been following you for a while now since your trip around the UK in your Hurley 22. Having owned both a 22 and a 24 you proved how good Hurley's are and also your seamanship. Nicholsons are go anywhere boats but looks like yours has been neglected. Whats amazing looking at the pipework and other bits that were in such a poor state is that you were able to sail to Holland and back with no incident. Definitely the hatch was a must and I am having similar issues with my Trapper and access. Good to see how you removed the stern gland and rubber tube behind which joins from the stern tube. The rubber tube on mine has turned to mush, & probably should be changed every 10 years. If you are worried about the grub screws coming undone one trick is to put a second grub screw on top. Personally I would fit cap heads in there place with Loctite as grub screws hex easily round out and are nearly impossible to remove. Since your top sides look great since the repaint and your hull appears to be dry I would strip off the antifoul and then in the spring put 3 coats of Hempel high protect on which will protect against Osmosis. I also sail on the Blackwater. Keep up the good work. Stuart

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching, on this PYI seal the fixing grub screws are backed up with another grub screw with loctite applied. Probably won't have any problems but in case it does push its way forward, a shaft collar clamp will go in infront of the stainless seal

[@Sp3ktral22]

Great job on the seal and hatch work Sam. Got me thinking about my Sadler's access to the stern gland now, but it'll have to wait until I'm back in country to check it out.

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching 😎

[@Sp3ktral22]

@@samsails9820 yeah no problem. I'm watching from the UAE.

[@Sp3ktral22]

@@samsails9820 Yeah no problem, I'm watching from the UAE.

[@FIL357]

Good job done. I don’t know anything of boats but I do other engineering. It’s gone well : agree with earlier advice re fitting and securing things. Phil, Suffolk.

[@paulsharman]

Stirling effort chap, which should pay dividends in the future! 👍

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching 😎👍

[@iangowdy3263]

Hi Sam. Great video. I have a 1966 Nic 32 which had a hatch as standard at that time. I have the same rudder movement in the bottom shoe as you do so am looking forward to seeing how to fix it as I have been putting it off.......😂😂

[@samsails9820]

As long as the bolts are in ok condition it rwasonable easy to take the shoe off. Its just the other bit 😬

[@iangowdy3263]

That's the bit I am worried about. Lol Hopefully there is a Bush I can replace or I could over drill the hole and make one. Will wait till your next video before I jump in.....

[@stephanguitar9778]

Exactly what I had to do to repack the tiller post stuffing box on my Hurley 22 which was leaking.

[@stevenwatsham5973]

Use a copper/ hide mallet Sam!!.. Also Makita power tools are much more robust..

[@philoutdoornut5476]

Hi Sam just to say you are doing a great job love your videos.i have the exact same boat that I'm currently refitting in Cornwall .I've had all the same issues that you have had and good to see you resolve the issues in the same way as me .I'm probably six months further on than you but like you work gets in the way and slows things down .would be great to get in touch .cheers Phil

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching, feel free [e-mail]

[@alaneverett2531]

I feel ya pain sam 😂😂

[@mikepaget-tomlinson1916]

Sam wonderful job you are doing however I am amazed at your choice of stern gland I have been using a Radice stern gland or even a Volvo drip less one for 30 years on my Westerly so much easier to fit and and half the price of the one you use. There must be some advantage to yours? Mike

[@samsails9820]

@@mikepaget-tomlinson1916 its a good point. This one was advised by a marine engineer due to being a low to zero maintenance gland. Caught this on a weekend deal so didn't pay usual market price.

[@mikepaget-tomlinson1916]

I am sure he will have his reasons.

[@melrobinson2111]

I learn so much from your channel, thanks Sam. You didn't show the final, belt and braces clip ....was it a jubilee clip? Do tell!!

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching, haven't bought it yet but I'll probably use a stainless shaft collar clamp.

[@simonjames46]

“Detergent liquid” is Radox a specialist cleaning product for prop shafts 😉🤭

[@samsails9820]

@@simonjames46 it is now 👍

[@rickgordongordonellissteel3761]

Wow, that looked like a bit of a pig of a job. Well done. Rewarded with a pint or two at the Butt and Oyster I hope!

[@Jackanory222]

I think putting the clip on the shaft is essential. You can also use a shaft collar zinc or the stainless collar PYI sell. You do not need to connect a waterline to the shaft seal fitting on a sailboat but you do need to terminate that nipple. PYI also sell a vent device that connects to the tube nipple via a tube to allow venting of the bellows else you need to burp the bellows by compressing them by hand for a few seconds when you relaunch. Did you replace the cutlass bearing? I bet you would not have crossed the channel if you had known that nipple was in that condition!! Anyway a job well done

[@samsails9820]

No didn't replace cutlass bearing, not much play in it. The split clamps are a great unit for this. 👌

[@ianrees3231]

well done

[@shotmegoo4032]

Avid follower of your channal Sam - there is always something to learn when watching you! It's great. I was wondering what level of insurance you are hoping to get - i.e. Third Party or custom cover? Dont really know much about boat insurance other than the simple third pary cover I have on my Longbow - interested to know.

[@samsails9820]

The recommendation is generally minimum third party fire and theft and 2-3million liabillity cover, if you're in a marina surrounded by gin palaces probably want some pretty robust insurance

[@peterreeve8663]

Hi Sam, that looked like a struggle! Just wondering if you can get the boom aluminium welded. I’m no metallurgist but a skilled metal worker can work wonders. The other possibility is a wooden boom, would that be a cheaper acceptable alternative? Best wishes for Christmas and the New Year.

[@samsails9820]

I've been experimenting with braizing aluminium rods on a few scrap peices if aluminium, it is successfull and very strong however heating up the area on the boom to 350deg will probably be quite difficult if using a standard gas torch

[@peterreeve8663]

@ I was thinking Mig or Tig but I have no real knowledge tbh.

[@sligeach]

Have you left a 5-7mm clearence between front face of prop and aft end of cutlass housing for thrust on shaft which will move it forward under load?

[@samsails9820]

yes shaft is in identical position to before it was removed. I didn't show it but this was marked up before hand

[@gingerbard2607]

Great job. Those PSS seals are pricey though! Hope you factored it into the purchase price?

[@samsails9820]

It wasn't but then there are always things to pay for. There are cheaper seals but this was on a 30% discount weekend sale so it was an easy decision made. Thanks for watching. 😎

[@sailawayteam]

Slime and grime. That sums up any work in the lower aft part of a boat.

[@monaghanpete]

What length boom do you need?

[@samsails9820]

Total length including the goosneck fitting and outhaul is 4.8m, extrusion on its own 4.5m

[@MG-qo5ge]

Great job, I'm having to do exactly the same job, but I have bitten the bullet and cut a sensible hole as I have to get to the back of the gearbox to align the prop after an engine change properly , I think the manufactures should be brought back to work on their boats or maybe they have Victorian ideas of sending little people to do these jobs

[@samsails9820]

@@MG-qo5ge i think Stowaway has had a new cockpit sole fitted at somepoint. Original design drawings shows there was an oval hatch. Thanks for watching 😎

[@mattdouglas5570]

Great video Sam would be easy to get carried away spending money on that old girl nut you're keeping it to a minimum

[@tetleyk]

Nice job, but I am so glad my boat doesn't have an engine!! 🤣

[@DM-tn6jd]

Hi mate, cracking video as always. I’m only 2 years into sailing and my first boat so might be a dumb question…. Why did you get a survey for insurance? I have full insurance through a top name company in the UK and I specifically asked them and they didn’t require a survey. I had one from when I bought the boat but they didn’t even need that. I specifically asked so I didn’t have a claim denied if that ever happened. My boat is only 17k insured value though so is that the difference here? Cheers mate.

[@sligeach]

I have had my boat 18 yes now and insured with same company, they used to require a survey every 7yrs but changed that to 10yrs after my last survey. They guarantee to payout stated value in event of total loss.

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching I doubt I'll bother getting fully comprehensive. The survey was insurance in itself, some of the points raised and are being or have been addressed already. A failed exhaust hose or PSS seal would be quite an issue. If you are overseas likely more of an issue to fix. From an insurance company perspective its very difficult to find insurance for a boat older than 50 years without a condition survey at least within the last 10 years.

[@brumboru]

How much do you pay for your moorings, I’m about to start sailing lessons inspired by people like yourself. Buying a boat is only half the battle getting a reasonable moorings on the south coast proves just as hard

[@samsails9820]

32ft, 10 metre, boat about 2k per year for a river mooring and storage ashore. Its paid in increments at certain points in the year which helps I find. Boat yard owned river moorings generally cheaper than marina owned river moorings. Thanks for watching

[@anniem8262]

The Nic 32 should have had a circular access hatch on the cockpit floor to provide access to the rear of the engine, prop shaft, etc. Did the previous owners seal it up? I saw pictures of Stowaway after her "refurbishment" and they seem to have done a pretty shoddy job on many things, apparently believing paint covers all ills :( It's good to see she has a more sensible owner now.

[@samsails9820]

I didn't think there were any cockpit hatches on the early nicholsons. Unless the cockpit sole was refitted at a point in time with no thought to install a hatch.

[@anniem8262]

@@samsails9820 The pics I've got of Nic 32s are from 1963, 1964, 1965 (Mk1-III?) and all have a circular hatch, screwed down onto what seems to be a gasket/seal in the cockpit sole, about where you cut your hatch. It's hard to believe anyone could install a new engine or rebuilt one without that hatch giving access to the prop shaft and stern hull fittings, but then it's hard to believe anyone would use cheap steel hose clips on hoses that go through the hull. A bad thing to economise on.

[@samsails9820]

​@@anniem8262 next video is the rudder pintle shoe inspection, it was carried out at the same time as this job but thought it best covered in a separate video for reference purposes. Mostly ok but some interesting finds.

[@oldjack3023]

What is it with blokes called Sam cutting holes in boats?

[@samsails9820]

That reminds me, i need to check my spreaders 😉

[@coljhall]

I like the idea of a backup clip. Is that just a standard stainless jubilee?

[@samsails9820]

@@coljhall jubilee clips or a small ball anode, anything that can clamp to the tube and won't interact with the prop shaft too much.

[@sickgit66]

Looking good, I'm sure that hatch will be helpful many times over the next few years, sods law states that if it goes wrong it'll go wrong at the worst time in the hardest place to reach, this'll help no end. Will any boom the right length and diameter do or is it going to be specific to that boat? Keep up the good work fella.

[@samsails9820]

Thanks for watching, yes as long as the length and diameter is sufficient and a track for the stack pack available then it should be fine, the tricky bit is the goosneck fitting. Obsolete units without the goosneck mast fitting may require a custom section made. There are some second hand Z spars booms available but they no longer support the parts for that model.