I don't want to work on a Fiat again

This Fiat 500 TwinAir hasn't been an easy build for me. It's physically easy to work on due it's small size, but the complete lack of documentation is a real hindrance.
Oh, and I can't get the engine started. I'm getting error codes related to spark plugs and the fuel pump relay, but I've no idea where to begin.
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[@TommasoBocci]

Hi, I'm a Fiat tech from Italy. Twinair module needs to prime in order to open intake valves, you need to continue cranking the engine until oil reach the twinair module. But you also need to remove spark plugs several times and clean them, because they will soak with petrol, until engine finally starts. Alternatively, you can crank the engine without the plugs for ~1 minute to build oil pressure. Anyway, I remember that even brand new cars with this engine, when standing still at the dealership for some time, would have this problem 😅 good luck!

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Grazie, Tommaso! I'll give this a go and see what happens 👍🏻

[@krisztianmicsko3790]

Hi Tommaso Would you recommend to buy a 500 fitted with a twinair? Im a VW mechanic and looking to buy a 500 project. Found one but its a dualogic auto. Engine runs good but gerbox not selecting gears at all. Also has a high pitch noise coming from bellhosing area. Something like when sandwitch plate catches on the flywheel. Noise goes away once revs up or over 1500. Dont know much about these set ups would be a great help if you could tell me if this is something worth to deal with or just forget about it? Cheers in advance. Chris

[@robbalinski1606]

@@NotEconomicallyViable Also for future reference, usually running a turbo with out oil destroys the turbo..... and piston rings don't get stuck from lack of oil, they aren't supposed to even see oil. I figured as Tommasco said that oil primes the timing side of the engine which sets engine timing.

[@roccol3110]

For any U.S. viewers, this also applies to the 1.4 MultiAir

[@jameznm]

That was very nice of you to share that Tommaso.

[@antonia4722]

I worked as a mechanic for many years and I never lost the nervousness upon first startup after engine work! I really love your channel..I love your humour and your tenacity to just keep going. Modern cars are so complicated these days that its a minefield for mistakes. Well done you! x

[@vytas5584]

You can do coolant flushes with distilled water, drive it for a couple of days then refill it, do it again until it drains clear. Saves you pouring out more coolant than you have to

[@armouredtrend7404]

It might be advisable to 'reverse flush' the radiator, so as not to force the shit further into the rad (IE push them back out the way they came in)

[@dannylayton5470]

For the oil on the floor, the best thing to use is jizer then jet wash it hope this helps you

[@PandaMobileMechanic]

brake cleaner to get oil off surfaces, spray then dab oil off better when fresh and jetwash off after

[@vytas5584]

I’m not surprised by the title. In Australia, mechanics moan whenever you reveal you’re bringing in a European car 😅 A lot of them go “we don’t work on those”

[@johnreece3882]

The Hydrolic lifters are between the cam shaft and the valve stems, these replace solid push rods and are operated directly by the cam shaft the engine oil acts as a buffer between the cam and the cylindrical lifters.

[@grahamleiper1538]

Realise it's been a while but what worked on my driveway after the sump went on an old Jeep was sprinkling old fashioned soap powder (laundry detergent) on the stain every few days, replacing after it rained. Just a light sprinkling, not shovelled on. Worked well, no real work, was not instant though. Was a month or so before I couldn't see the stain.

[@doraexplora9046]

Oil viscosity is also directly related to climate. So here in Australia we need higher viscosity oil because we deal with high heat and rarely cold and never freezing for 99% of the country. So typically we would go up at least one grade higher ie. 20W-50 is a pretty thick oil with a narrow temperature range. Most 'rice burners' use 10W-40 here ie. Hyundai, Toyota, Mazda etc. Specialist engines like Alfa, BMW, Merc etc have their own oils and typically are expensive 0W-60 to cover ALL basis and all climates but cost serious bucks. A Castrol Edge version cost like $120/5ltrs or around GBP55/5ltrs. Where as narrow temp range oils are half the price. Using a high viscosity oil in a cold climate won't work. ie. 20W-50 in Northern England or Scotland would not be good for the engine. It will give you great compression, but might end up fouling plugs. With cheaper oils you need to be spot on with the 'viscosity-to-weather' ratio which is a little guess work and manufacturers recommendations. Every Hyundai Owners manual has this info in them because their cars are sold to EVERY climate and have the most experience with that issue.

[@rjkulman8990]

there are many eco-friendly degreasers you can use in your driveway Ive stained my driveway, and it cleaned up very well, scrubbing it with a bristle brush helps

[@b4tm4nrubin33]

Great little series here matey

[@johnkatakowsi9907]

Thanks for all your videos, besides being very informative, brought back many old memorizes, helping my buddy line up his pressure plate!!! at 2:00am in the morning!!!!!😀

[@johntickle3120]

I use auto washing machine liquid for flushing ,one cap on a small engine ,bring up to temp works a treat but flush with fresh water afterwards and before adding coolant.

[@bogdangiurgiu3952]

Hi. You can clean the engine coolant system with water mixed with two dishwasher detergent "pills" and let the engine run for a few hours or if you can drive the car let that coolant for @ 100 miles. All the best wishes from Romania!

[@andrewreynolds2647]

hi, just caught this video, i have subscribed, i love the calm and common sense way you do everything . Thank you for sharing, i thoroughly enjoyed your video, i shall be spending time now catching up on your past videos. Cheers. Andy. Scotland.

[@terrortorn]

I've had good results on concrete driveway with NEAT green fairy, its a pretty powerful degreaser. Apply neat, brush in and then cover with a plastic bag or upturned bucket. Give it time then scrub it off, repeat if it yields a result. Its so cheap its worth a try.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Someone else has mentioned that, so will definitely give it a go 👍🏻

[@damienoneill4355]

I always use undiluted Fairy Liquid on tarmac Nino. Squirt it on, pour boiling water on it and leave. Then rinse off. It won't get rid of the staining...but it does get the oil out.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Ahh ok. Will try that out 👍🏻

[@scottfrancis1765]

i know its late but when i worked as a cleaner one place we cleaned was a garage and we used rubicon to clean up the oil on the floor dont know how well it would work on road surface but it worked in the garage floor

[@richardmorris7210]

Undo the little bolt what holds the oil pressure valve for the cams pull the pressure valve out slightly crank over till you see oil coming out refit and try start it

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Cheers, Richard, I'll give that a go 👍🏻

[@londoncentral]

For your next purchase Nino !!!! A set of quick jack's 😉👍😎

[@johncallaghan4616]

Keep at it Nino,! Comments from PD Tech make total sense (especially having the boost pack connected!), as does Richard’s (and others) comments about the Allen Key/Ball-bearing ‘manual-prime’ - I was actually going to suggest the Bump Start method (to force pressure increase through the resistance) but you beat me to it, and cannot use this method in any event. I am sharing your pain but you’l get there - attempted an Engine Oil Change this evening (note ‘attempted’) on my 2012 1.4 500C, a simple enough job - 6 bolts holding the belly plate off…check, ‘cept that 5 were 1” and the 6th was 1 1/4” length. All guides advised sump plug was a 13mm head with a ‘from-Factory’ O-ring fitted that didn’t need changing if in a malleable state - wasn’t a 13mm, wasn’t even a 14mm, 15mm, or even a 16mm - f$#%^ng 17mm with a Crush Washer to boot. Why (just like your finding on the gearbox bell housing dowels) do Fiat a) not allow anything to be published, and b) keep changing so much on the design ? Tell you why…..to keep everything in the dealer workshops and keep that cash coming in! Oil on Tarmac issue - as it’s not fresh spillage, rather ‘soakage’, cat litter won’t absorb it (but do note for future). This might sound a little odd, but ‘fight Fire with Fire’ - get a few cans of WD40 (you’ll always have a use for them anyway), spray liberally (maybe do a test area first), allow to soak, then jet it away - “G101” might also be a good option. Looking forward to the next instalment and keep those “Whhoshes” and “Pah-Chews” included !

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

I think you're right about Fiat wanting to keep all the info in-house for profit purposes. It's a shame because it stifles any attempt at a vibrant community around the cars, and also limits what the aftermarket can/will do. I've learned from this one, though. Whilst it's probably no bother for an experienced mechanic to see to these cars, for someone with little experience who is trying to learn as much as possible on the job, it does make things particularly difficult. And also for the people who want to service their own cars like yourself!

[@nickgeorge5761]

Newto your channel great content as a home mechanic myself I feel your pain some great advice from some of your followers which makes sense good luck mate

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Great to have you on board, Nick 👍🏻

[@tonyphillips4858]

Great videos gives me confidence to have a go myself.

[@edwardkrarup8816]

With the staining in that tank you could put a handful of gravel in it and give it a good shake around that was scratch it all off.

[@karachaffee3343]

I only put Formby-Dimblewight Super Badger 30 oil in my Fiat. It is made in Upper Wootton just outside Basingstoke and actually contains 3% badger fat.

[@terrywilkins5266]

Try G101, it's brilliant grease remover on everything. You can get it from Amazon.

[@neilstanghanstanghan4980]

Hey Nino. Yes the others are right. Whip out the spark plugs and crank it for much longer. You need to draw the oil up to the top to activate the valves. It sounds at the moment like no compression. Good luck mate, love the videos..!

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Cheers, Neil. I'm gonna give this a go. I suppose I was just worried about the stress on the starter motor, but have got a lot of advice on how to do it properly without stressing it, so hopefully that works 🙏🏻

[@wil892-r4r]

Could also be worth removing spark plugs and cranking to allow the engine to turn over quicker, helping it suck the oil up

[@ezequielgueu8464]

Its a good idea

[@stumac869]

It probably needs to be cranked for a good minute (may need more) to build up the oil pressure from a dry engine. Taking the plugs out will certainly help turn the engine at a faster rate without killing the battery.

[@MiracleMitch]

Agree with you William, these little engines need fuller oil pressure to allow a start and this takes a while so would overheat the starter unless the plugs (and fuel pump relay) are removed.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

I'll give this a go, bud. Thanks for the advice 👍🏻

[@hlq2action310]

​@@stumac869without killing the starter too, it will run hot!

[@P4N15HR]

Hi you should have like a button near your gas pedal that turns off the pump...as a safety feature for crashes....i think...cause in my alfa and my girlfriends 500 it's there...continue the good work love your videos! P.s. all italian cars have frequent problems to be honest but they're pretty low cost repairable and can always find new parts for a good price (something that vw also have!). At the end of the day they forgive you a lot of unknowledge about the car in general and mechanical stuff...BUT ARE GREAT TO LEARN STUFF AND EASILY GET CONFIDENCE ABOUT REPAIRING ANY CAR IN THE FUTURE....all of the work on my two cars are done in the yard too :) ...keep it up! Big hug from Italian car diy mech community ;)

[@trevatkin4869]

I think on things like these everything must be under the official secrets act. Peugeots are the same, I have an RCZ and all I can say is don't buy one, they're great while they're running properly but if you get a problem it's hell on earth trying to find a resolution.

[@normanstephens5391]

Hi Nino. Some very good advice to follow from your subscribers in regard to getting the oil pressure up. Did you remember mine. put the heater controls to Hot to ensure the water flush reaches the heater matrix, which would probably have that brown rusty gunge inside. ps. also ensure the heater is not on re-circulate. See you in the next one. 👍👍

[@whitemonkey7932]

not saying you are wrong but many heater circuits are on all the time with temperature coming from air bypass flaps in the heater circuit.

[@pdtech4524]

Persevere with the engine cranking! It takes ages to prime the oil pressure to get the multiair unit primed up with oil, a lot longer than you will think! The inlet vavles will NOT function until the unit is primed, I guess there is an ECU engine cut off if no oil pressure getting to the multiair unit. It will turn over but feel like no compression. Crank it over for like 10 seconds, let it rest a moment, long crank again, rest it, long crank again, give it some gas and it will start to catch, if not give it a break and repeat. Make sure you have a good fully charged battery and you may also need the help of a boost pack, that's what helped to start mine!👍 You're correct about the 'which grade of oil debate' about this engine, my Fiat handbook says 5w 40 but I checked online, mine is a 2014 Fiat Panda 4x4, wish I hadn't really because much of it tells you to use the 0w 30 which is a much thinner oil. Which in theory would be fine in winter, you want the thinner oil to get to the top end and turbo quicker, so a thinner oil makes sense in winter. But let's not forget in warmer weather the engine oil gets thinner as it heats up so that's why I stick with 5w 40 and the garage I take it, checked that was the correct oil for mine!

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Lots of comments saying that the engine simply needs to be cranked for longer, so I'll give that a go. I just wasn't sure in this video what sort of effect that will have on the starter and didn't want to push it.

[@tapi0]

I don't pre measure the oil ether. I'll just pour somewhat close enough and check from the oil stick. After the engine has been run and oil light has been shut I'll check oil level from the stick again.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Yeah I need to check the level again before taking her on a test drive. Coolant too come to think about it...

[@MiracleMitch]

Alternatively, if the oil pressure light on the dash is not going out, remove the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and do your cranking again for 5 or 6 seconds, several times until the oil can light goes out. The ECU will not allow a start until the oil circuit is FULLY primed.

[@Cus7ate9]

You've earned my subscription, well done mate, keep up the great videos

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Awesome, thank you!

[@MyJon64]

I'd clean the inside of the header tank bottle off the car with a few Steradent tablets. The brown stuff is just hard water limescale! You really need to remove the spark plugs whilst you crank the engine to get the oil circulation and pressure before you attempt a start!

[@eddieMurphy11111]

to get oil of the floor as soon as you can put a lot of washing up liquid on it and get a yard brush and scrub it in and then rinse off.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Cheers bud, will give that a go 👍🏻

[@vicntez]

Under the engine cover in the middle of the rocker cover there looks like an allan key plug, remove it and under there looks like a ball bearing, push a screwdriver down there and have someone crank it over, will fill the actuator for the inlet valves with oil

[@MiracleMitch]

Will assist the oil prime for sure.

[@vicntez]

@@MiracleMitch we had this problem a couple of months ago, rebuilt one of these twinair engines, new head gasket, timing chain etc and could not get it started, tried turning it over and over and noticed the inlet valves were not opening, the valve actuator for the inlet valves could not fill with oil, we did what I posted earlier and the actuator filled with oil and she fired lol

[@MiracleMitch]

@@vicntez Had this a couple of years ago with a friend of mine's 500 that had sat for 6 months while she was overseas. Your method primes the top part of the oil circuit for those pesky actuated valves but overall the ECU needs to register a "Not present" for low oil pressure which it will do when most of the oil passages have had enough oil through them, and the oil pressure sensor at the bottom rear of the block, registers the requisite amount of pressure, the valve circuit being one section. Either way Nino should do one or both of our suggestions and it will start, of that I am sure.

[@ThorMotorWerks]

This 👌

[@user-re4jf2sb4q]

@@vicntez Will it show on a compression test if the inlet valves aren't working ?

[@huggybear1639]

Degreaser from screwfix, I use it for everything. Throw some on the ground and sprinkle some cheap bio washing powder kver it, then scrub it with a broom and jet wash off. Also for next time you swap an engine, try building it up more while it's off, watching this was painful 😂... I do this for a living so its second nature

[@manosgalanos2770]

double check the oil pressure sensor connector cable and keep on cranking

[@MrMaxeemum]

You need to put some (2 or 3) dishwasher tablets into the coolant tank and run as normal to clean the system then drain, flush and fill with proper coolant.

[@pashwesty3313]

You need to crank longer, it takes ages to build oil pressure, no oil pressure up top then the inlet won't be opening as you said it's all driven by actuators, hook up another car or jump pack to give you some more cranking speed, you should easily be able to hold the starter for 20 seconds leaving a break in-between without causing damage

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Cheers, bud, will give that a go 👍🏻

[@davidparsons7631]

Hi Great videos. Your so right about the lack of info online. Trying to find out the location of the fuel injectors so I can disconnect the cable to test as getting injector circuit fault codes. Assuming its possible to do that without dismantling the engine ?

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

The injectors are easily accessible from the top. Just need to remove the big plastic engine cover/air filter and you’ll see them

[@JimF500]

I agree with you on the oil spec, alot of nonsense goes on especially online debating about stuff like that. My"500" recently had a coolant leak from the top hose of the rad, and I topped it up with the stuff you have, and it's going to stay there. I am not going searching for some branded stuff which probably makes no difference anyway....,.. You can definitely hear the pump priming from the rear when you turn the key can you?? Unfortunately it is probably just a trial and error process to find the fault I suppose, I don't know what else to help, good luck with it.

[@OriginalMrMicky]

Try spraying easystart in air intake

[@paulvw4442]

Get a tin of easy start, or cold start spray into the air intake. it may take a couple of goes at it, should get it going

[@whitemonkey7932]

I wouldn't do that - inlets aren't opening and ether can do no end of damage

[@smurfsmurf2295]

Yes mate keep going

[@profemeritus534]

Was the Uniair filter (part number 71770205) also changed? It needs no change at every oil change, but swapping in a new one or at least cleaning the old one in fresh oil every 40-60.000 km is a good idea.

[@Dawscar]

What about the gauge on the side of the oil can

[@MiracleMitch]

The rusty powdery deposit is probably from a previous owner adding "Radiweld" or other ineffective, temporary at best, coolant leak treatment. Never use the stuff as it causes more damage than good. Used as a cover the problem up type solution when selling on cars with coolant leaks. Or it genuinely has a rusty block (usually caused by using water only not coolant and leaving the car standing for lengthy periods of time). Unlikely in this case though. Oil rating is to do with viscosity or how thick / thin an oil is at particular temperatures and whether it can maintain a lubricating film, that simple although the subject itself is vastly more complicated. Modern oils also have additives to reduce emissions (low SAPS for example).

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Cheers for that info. I'm gonna flush this coolant and see if anything else comes out. Hopefully that'll fix it

[@Mr_Springy]

I was going to comment that it looks like Radweld or Bars Leaks was added to the cooling system which is why it’s stained

[@robaustin245]

Did say what FIAT stood for. But I must say great content mate.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Lol I haven't forgotten. Fix It Again Tomorrow.

[@whydotufaqoff]

Give it a tow.... It’ll fire up... Nice video, thanks for posting it...👍

[@cal87249]

bro im italian! wrong it need really need with the multiair system is specific oil, (like you know and said)selenia or other brand but with the perfect specific of fiat for twin air! amd i also thing that the right graduation is 0w30

[@HowToSaveMoneyOnCarRepairs]

Go over the Work You Have Done..! Check all the Electrical Connectors and Other Connections...! Also make sure you have put the Right Amount of Oil in the Engine. The Best way to do this is Check Specifications and use a Measuring Jug to measure it out liter by Liter. Good Luck Mate...!😇

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

👍🏻

[@HowToSaveMoneyOnCarRepairs]

@@One_over_the_eight Because it Stops you from Overfilling the Car with Oil. This how you are Trained to do it at Motor Vehicle Collage, it is the Professional way of doing it...!😇👍

[@derekgb3780]

I agree with you about all the BS around on the precise oil to use in any car. Had you not confirmed, I would have guessed just any fully synthetic 5W-30 C3 (low ash therefore low carbon) oil - any brand.

[@eldodos83]

Dishwasher tablets in the header tank are a good job for cleaning that crap out

[@davewalsh2883]

FIAT , stands for Fix It Again Tomorrow, try and get it running and sell asap .

[@paultaylor9652]

Good luck, I'm sure someone on here will help you out matey. Great video's keep them coming.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

🙌🏻

[@billcunningham8485]

Hi Nino - keep the faith. Almost there. I do not know Fiats - that stated would it be possible that the trouble codes stored in the ECU you mentioned are preventing the car from starting? Like a "limp" or self protection mode? If you clear the codes will that allow for the ECU to run the needed software program properly? EDIT: Does your OBD2 allow you to see real time engine vitals - will it act as a way to display an electronic gauge cluster? I ask as this might help check the oil pressure using the OBD2 and the App on your phone - thus knowing that the oil pressure isn't the issue. I use DashCmd (Dash Command) app on my iPhone and I can display a detailed dashboard of engine data.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

I think my scanner may well provide real-time data, so that's a great idea!

[@colintx800]

Take the water bottle out again and try some steradent tablets over night. I know they clean out super stubborn stains in coffee cups toilets and lots of other stuff, Just make sure you give it a good clean before you put it back in the car. It's worth a try for £1 and some water.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Great shout 👍🏻

[@bigkev8949]

keep cranking

[@lolliedog363]

Where do you get all the torque figures/values. Tks

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

A combination of forums and third-party sites that sell workshop manuals

[@user-re4jf2sb4q]

Does the scanner not give you oil pressure readings ?

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Oooo that’s a great shout. I have no idea, but I’ll definitely check 👍🏻

[@jonathanfenne4948]

So. It sounds like your last engine sucked air instead of oil, going round that roundabout, lost prime at the valve module, which stopped the valves from being opened. Engine was probably fine 🙂

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

I sold the original engine (for very little money) to someone who was going to chance it in their car, but they said it was mangled. They ended up weighing it in 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@MunDad]

What happens if you put 5w 40 in a euro 6 car? Panicking 😮

[@markduncan3586]

Good old fashioned fairy up liquid and elbow grease 😅

[@VSTV1993]

Crank it with the plugs out.. no compression then and super fast oil pressure build up 😁

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Heard this a few times, so will give it a go 👍🏻

[@VSTV1993]

@@NotEconomicallyViable try and clear the fault codes prior too start up

[@johnj.bourke7959]

Sprinkle ordinary washing powder on your drive, add small amount water from watering can and brush off.

[@chrisshaw6997]

Did you swap the fuel injectors over from the old engine?

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Yeah - I never removed them from the old inlet manifold, so came over with that

[@michaelrejoinbradford1282]

I know the feeling

[@bogdan7826]

Neither do i ! I've worked on a Fiat grande punto and every bolt that I tried to undo has snapped 😳 🤧 it wouldn't matter how much DW40 I used still snapped even the bolts that should hold the clutch to flywheel,the bolts that hold the alternator the bolts that hold the Ac compressor and many other small bolts! That car was a nightmare 😫. In the end I managed to fix everything .and I said never again work on fiat

[@royburns7496]

I would have a word with the guy who dose love 500 channel if I was you

[@user-re4jf2sb4q]

Put stones in the coolant reservoir and shake

[@adamhewitt5713]

dish washer tablet in coolent tank and run keep doing until clean seen this done on you tube on a rover car

[@ianwiggins734]

Take it in and stick it food dishwasher if you get one I'll stick soap powder in it and put it through the washing machine on a cycle or the dishwasher

[@joshmerrick4716]

Full fav Coca Cola works well at getting oil stains off. It has to be the real thing though. Not supermarket specials

[@J.F.K.O]

it is because you put the engine cover on. It is a well known fact that when you assemble it too much there will be issues :P just kidding

[@ezequielgueu8464]

Sometimess, the ECU isnt compatible with the new engine!

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

I did change all the sensors and ancillaries over, so any inputs the ECU receives should be the same as before. I hope lol

[@ItZFlipz]

subbed

[@thomaspenman4101]

Hello my friend have you got a decent car my son could buy he is my carer am 68 he has a fieesta to px

[@ianwiggins734]

Get a bag of cheap cat litter not getting it upGet a bag of cheap cat litter not getting it up That's what I used to use anyway

[@neilaaitchison4473]

Stick with it mate you will get there .

[@fv7765]

Me too I hate the new Fiat, so a bad design. My 1.9 Multijet 8v glow plugs are right in the back of the engine, required to lose the EGR pipe. Horrible, glad I no longer have Fiat now.

[@bikeman123]

15:25 wouldn't it be easier to just pour the oil in 😂

[@stevenfrance6648]

Don’t ever let me see you with your neck under a disc again that’s bad even with axle stands (faith in metal ) 😢

[@worldhello1234]

That is an engine for people who turn fuel saving into a form of art. If spirited driving is your thing, this engine is not the ideal choice for ye.

[@francescosantangelo6614]

In italy this motor is a flop commercial and give many problems after 100.000 kilometers.......in italy sells more 1200 69 cv fire

[@pdtech4524]

Not really a flop, just needs more regular oil changes than Fiat suggest, also needs the correct grade oil, many problems with this engine are to do with the multiair unit that controls the inlet valves.

[@francescosantangelo6614]

@@pdtech4524 of course

[@pdtech4524]

@@francescosantangelo6614 You're right of course, the 1.2 is probably more reliable long term, older design so all problems have been ironed out by Fiat. But the 1.2 is much less fun to drive, the Twinair follows Fiat's 2 cylinder, small capacity heritage of their brand, the distinctive sound makes the car unique and adds to the character of the car.👍 I've had a Fiat Stilo with the 1.2 very revving, full of go but them gives up just when you need a bit more grunt!! The Fiat Panda 4x4 I have has the twinair unit and I much prefer the higher power and more torque etc the little turbo adds to it. Plus less road tax, cheaper to service, lighter engine plus less moving parts equals less friction and better fuel economy, hopefully!! 😲⚠️😁👍

[@GeorgeAusters]

Not a good idea to drain coolant on the floor mate - animals like to lick it but it's poisoness

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Yeah I always make sure to clean it up for that reason. Got a cat myself, so I'm especially motivated to sort it 👍🏻

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@NotEconomicallyViable Ahh good stuff!

[@whatsdavedone104]

Make contact with chops garage here on youtube, he knows these fiat's inside out...he is also on Instagram

[@whitemonkey7932]

looooh...he's no mechanic at all, just enough to be dangerous

[@neilus99]

NO NONSENSE HEAVY DUTY DEGREASER 5LTR screwfix use neat let it soak in then wash away

[@NeilD163]

Apparently cheapo coca cola is effective to.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Nice one, will grab a load a give it a try 👍🏻

[@alanbedford9989]

Don't let the merc beat u up just rewire it your self one at time get on with it come on

[@garydod6212]

Have you missed an engine earth?

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

I did think that initially, but I was careful to count how many I removed when taking the engine out (three) and I've put them all back...

[@whitemonkey7932]

take the plugs out mate and stop being frightened of it....you'll make it worse. you think that's bad, I've got a Honda CBR1000rr and if someone just pokes the starter it will foul the plugs and they won't dry out on their own, even after changing them a few times it takes me the best part of half a day and loads of cursing to do it - you won't do any harm by taking the plugs out and spinning it over for a good few seconds and repeating before trying again. if you listen you'll note that the engine has little or no compression, it sounds dead, that would be the inlets not opening.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Yeah lots of people saying take the plugs out, so definitely gonna give that a go. I was just worried about stressing the starter too much, because I just don't know about these things, but after getting all this advice I'm confident I can get it sorted 👍🏻

[@dddiy6347]

Car litter

[@WhiskyMechanic]

Cat litter? I've used it and it does work well. Not quick and you have to crush it down into powder but it's effective. Cement dust is what is used at race tracks oil spills btw.

[@Dearjohn999]

If you’re serious about what you do you need a decent workshop

[@themadcoachman]

Contact The Love 500 channel , I'm sure he'd give you advice , he knows loads

[@LifesAbe-ach]

Fix It Again Tomorrow.

[@Nothingeverhappens84]

Fiat = Ferrari In Alternate Trim

[@EdgyNumber1]

Two cars not fun to work on. These, and BMW Minis. Especially the latter.