I FDM Printed a 40k COMBAT PATROL! Should You?

[@Painted4Combat]

FAQ: Printer: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (w/ 0.2mm Nozzle) Filament: Elegoo PLA Slicer: Orca-Slicer

[@MrHaak_HB]

Got the same printer but switching to the neptune4pro almost cut my printing times by factor 3 i highly recommend this one (klipper speed makes a huge difference). Thanks for all the fdm videos 👍.

[@HauntedCorpseGaming]

Great video. Before getting a resin printer I went down the rabbit hole of printing mini's with a 0.2mm nozzle and using a 0.05mm layer height to achieve some really nice quality but the one thing I always kept was 100% infill, now why would I do that? Because of how FDM absorbs paint, with 100% infill you don't have this issue ever creeping up.

[@Weird_Quests]

What settings or profile would you recommend for OrcaSlicer? I’m trying to swap to Orca for my Neptune 3 Pro but I feel like times are slower and getting inconsistent results. How would you recommend to tune/calibrate the printer? And what settings for OrcaSlicer would you recommend?

[@Painted4Combat]

@@Weird_Quests I have a full guide for my Orca-Slicer settings here! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqvJkKN5gM99hNE

[@Weird_Quests]

@@Painted4Combat lol - I literally just found it when you commented :) thank you so much :) I’m just about to start releasing tabletop content (my main industry) but I’m expanding into 3D printing to produce accessories and such too - so looking to learn and get into design alongside content :) based on Melb too :)

[@ajsommerfield]

Great vid! I picked up an A1 mini a few weeks ago mainly for printing miniatures and hobby related gadgets. I’ve been getting some great results. Print times are long but I don’t feel it’s an issue, not like you sit watching it. The minis printed in this video will have a longer print time than a single piece miniature. Infantry type models from one page rules take typically just over an hour each to print. 👍👍👍

[@Axiom125]

This is the first video of yours I've seen, that minis look SO GOOD for FDM printing! I've been fiddling a bit with my printer and minis on my .4mm nozzle and have been debating about getting a resin. Between this and not wanting to deal with resin I may have to get a .2mm and watch more of your videos. I know it won't match resin quality but that's more than good enough for tabletop quality! Cheers mate

[@Reaperking66]

Your videos had helped me tune in my printer to make my minis, the biggest help to remove layer lines was your .2 nozzle. I link your videos to anyone wanting to FDM print minis.

[@Painted4Combat]

Happy to help! 🫡

[@Weird_Quests]

@@Painted4Combatwhat other settings or profiles do I need to use for my Neptune 3 Pro for printing quality like this?

[@Dedalus94]

I like to compare print times to shipping times. Obviously it's cheaper, but it's roughly equivalent or better time-wise to shipping the part/model from a distributor or retailer.

[@Ranzarok]

I love PW minis. Based on your videos, these will be the next ones I try on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (using your setting recommendations). Thanks for the videos

[@Fymosis]

Nice result ! i would love to see you print "bigger minis" like walkers, vehicule, monster and the like. I feel like the optimised setting would be slightly different for those.

[@Chaoclypse]

Recently found your channel, and it's been incredibly helpful in my 3D printing journey. I got a Bambu A1, my first 3D printer, last week and have been printing non-stop!

[@Painted4Combat]

Awesome! Hope that you find some useful info in my videos 🙌

[@damomabb9321]

Hell yea I just got my first I got the A1 mini

[@jamesbarantor7094]

I'd love to see it done up to 1000 points, but also see the ones in this video painted up too. I think it's all well and good to see the prints, but putting paint on them sometimes is telling about details more.

[@PropaneProd]

Very cool! Love seeing more FDM content especially for combat patrols!

[@damomabb9321]

Im an ork player so I'd love to see you print some orks

[@Sebastian-fn1qg]

To be honest, I'd love to see you try to print something detailed from a company like DMs Stash.

[@alBoomer19]

I’m currently printing puppetswar strikers for a boarding patrol with 3d printed boarding patrol terrain. I’m using the A1 mini with .2mm nozzle and I’m loving the printing process.

[@NathanLazyBear]

Fun video, cool to see nicer FDM prints for miniatures.

[@armundojones]

Great job. Its the first video I found from the channel. A lot of people in the 3d printing community look down on filament printing minis but the gap is narrowing and not everyone wants to deal with the toxic materials in resin printing. 0.2 nozzles really seem to help. I hope my current resin peinter by the time it gives up the ghost will be my last.

[@andrewbratchell1715]

I'd love to see you print some more organic looking factions, like Tyranids. Curious to see how they would turn out on FDM. I honestly dont care how long it takes to print as long as the detail is a good as possible

[@kasparbaktat964]

The experiences you share are really invaluable!

[@citizenrico42]

I've had an A1 mini for almost a week just playing around to get comfortable enough to try this.

[@SomeGuyAsWell]

Right now I'm printing things for Rangers of Shadow Deep over a few days like in the vid. Using designs from Brite Minis, EC3D, Vae Victis, Monstrous Encounters, and Fat Dragon Games. Most are designed to be support-free and some are free samples. OPR has a handful of samples as well.

[@BruiserActual]

Print some more factions bro! Those look stellar. Would also love to see follow up to this platoon after painting!

[@demonblood83]

id love to see you do a necrons combat patrol, i’ve scoured youtube and haven’t been able to find any videos showing them!

[@turtlecheese8]

All in all rounded up, 93 hours is roughly four days. Or about the same time (if not shorter) for a package to be dropped off on your doorstep. I think the print times are entirely reasonable, assuming all goes well.

[@hihu8741]

Reals hanging for the DnD Heroforge Bust tutorial!

[@michaelstewart7602]

Would love to see how those Xenarid proxies turn out in FDM

[@aslskfan1]

Yes, print the other factions and vehicles! I would like to have you help us print One Page Rules and Mantic Vault miniatures as well!!

[@arcanewhiskers2662]

oh these look great ! if you ever want some FDM friendly terrain designs i'd be more than happy to send over some of my sets for the channel !

[@Painted4Combat]

Nice to have you here ArcaneWhiskers! 🙌 Feel free to flick me an email if you'd like (you can find my details in my bio on the channel)

[@MrHattmannnen]

Really enjoy your fdm printing videos, not alot of discussion about printing on anything else than the bambu labs. Gonna test orca slicer and printing some minis on my ender 3

[@grim3897]

Very informative video, but maybe it's because I have always printed in resin that I can't understand why someone would print armies in FDM and not resin, new printers are blazing fast, the quality of the print is incredible even at .1 and it's cents. I understand it's messier, smellier and more tools are needed but even so... I still think it's worth it

[@Painted4Combat]

I didn't really cover it in this video in particular, but I live in a tiny apartment with no way to safely ventilate for resin printing, and I make these videos for others out there in similar situations! But yes you're totally right, Resin will always win in Speed and Detail

[@PaintballTaco]

What glue do you use for PLA? I’ve tried a couple and it always seems to either not dry basically at all, or take forever to dry enough where I don’t have to hold the pieces together without fear of them just falling right off.

[@Brickerbrack]

Best bet is just to use superglue.

[@etalon11]

Keep up the great work

[@rmfberry261]

im curious how painted terrain would look

[@ЧеловекЧеловек-п2к]

I really don`t like this alternative sculpts, but process is insane. Like.

[@CMWeaver]

Loving this, I have a Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro so this is all gold for me, I'm 15 space marines deeps so far (black templar) , Would love to see some vehicles like a dreadnaught or thunderhawk

[@edwardharman1153]

I'm getting an A1 Mini for Christmas (well, I have to share with my son). What are the trade-offs between printing separate parts and gluing them together, vs. assembling a complete mini on the computer and printing it in one piece?

[@Painted4Combat]

Exciting! Hope you enjoy the printer ~ I like to print in parts where possible, assembled minis generally have more pieces overhanging bits which often (not always) require more support material; when they do it means more ugly overhangs and scarring left by support material and more wasted filament. Being able to orient parts individually leads to much cleaner prints and easier support removal, plus it means if the print of a single part fails you aren't reprinting a whole mini! For a further explanation about the orientation stuff and getting clean prints from multipart minis, check out my Supports guide! I cover it all there kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJjLl4NulLFrhsU

[@edwardharman1153]

@@Painted4Combat Thanks!

[@cgm4379]

I would try this plus the acetone trick to smooth them out a bit or scale up. (I don't play tabletop wargames, I only like painting them)

[@TheSmuey]

Keep in mind that acetone won't work on PLA, which is the most commonly sold (and probably one of the easier to print) materials for FDM printing, though. It will also more than likely just melt the fine detail away if you do use a material you can use acetone on.

[@Contractkillamax]

Thx for the video. I am having the issue, that my support are pretty much welded to the mini. Any recommendations on setting or which filament to use?

[@DrXanatos]

How difficult would you say more organic minis, like tyranids, were to print in FDM?

[@markbrener1259]

Could I ask what tools you use to remove supports and cleaning up your models? As well as the glue you use to repair or make your fdm models. Thank you so much!! Great video btw

[@markbrener1259]

And if its not too much of a hassle, could I ask how you separated that arm and added a joint to it on blender? Thank you!!

[@timkline162]

Can you see layer lines in the models if you paint them with washes or drybrushing?

[@JustinePatrick-vq4ge]

have you tried printing a big mini atleast 4-5 inches or any big prints like vehicle and does it have as much details using the default nozzle?

[@ricks758]

It's still faster than I can paint them anyways 😂. Looks great!

[@rmfberry261]

thats my thought too.

[@ThisisDD]

Get yourself a polyurea/pez build plate and you'll stop having adhesion issues.

[@danielnor5508]

Thank you for an interesting video! A question from a noob who have not yet bought his 3D printer: What is the best way to print minis on a FDM printer - one at the time, many times, or print multiple models at the same time? If I would make the Warhammer old world project I was thinking about, I would need to print out close to 100 night goblins - and that would only be the start. Alot of work, but I like the look of the models that I could print better then GW:s models.

[@odisy64]

FDM can do multiple models easily but that does make it take longer for every model you add, and if something goes wrong with one model the issue can ruin the adjacent models, honestly this is where resin has an advantage, its faster to print multiple miniatures on resin but the failed prints cost you a bit more on resin.

[@danielnor5508]

@@odisy64 Thank you for the advice, but I rather spend 100 times more time (or more) to not having to deal with resin. But timewise, is it big differance printing a single model two times then printing two models at the same time (using the A1 mini)?

[@odisy64]

@@danielnor5508 generally it would be faster to print 2 at the same time since you minimize the amount of post processing and set up you have to do but it also depends on how you have your print configured because if the head is having to travel to each model in between layer heights that may add a few fractions of a second that add up over time.

[@jimmhop]

Thanx!

[@Deathgazeroo]

Simple answer: No. Not because it's FDM, it's because its 40k :D

[@alexanderpopov3587]

Have been following along you videos while trying to print miniatures on the same printer. So far have mixed results. Would be interested to see how some of the Loot Studio’s Arkham Horror minies print out for you.

[@wyrdstoned4824]

You’re the man!

[@dankolord]

Which glue do you use for glueing fdm minis together ?

[@Painted4Combat]

Just regular cheap dollar store superglue for the most part!

[@tylerlawwill1761]

Dark templer combat patrol is available to download somewhere i believe (thats what the files call them anyway)

[@angelkirito7734]

It doesn't matter how fast you can print it. What really matter is how fast can you paint it😂😂😂😂

[@RealMomar27]

i wouldnt care about printing time, i paint only weekends, so i could print more than enought during the week.

[@javiermunoz419]

I’d love to see you paint these minis up!!! The layer lines are almost nonexistent and I’m sure they would look amazing! Great work!

[@alanjennison5039]

Is there a cura profile dont really use orca

[@kawkaventura-smith1886]

Hi. You are using a .4mm nozzle?

[@tylerlawwill1761]

.2

[@Painted4Combat]

A 0.2mm as has already been pointed out. You can see my full specs in my Print Settings video 😊

[@tjhayes9911]

I bought an A1 with this intention I have 30% of them fail, despite using all the settings provided by Fat Dragon. The minis are so brittle, it’s impossible to remove the supports without snapping something. I have decided the the A1 will be solely for printing terrain and bigger things like vehicles, as the quality is just terrible in comparison with the resin, plus I can use ABS like resin for more sturdy models. I have now purchased a resin printer as a results of my very disappointing experience in printing minis on the A1 Please, if you have the opportunity to print with resin, do that. If you go into this with an FDM printer expecting the same quality and polished finished product you will be sorely disappointed, I know I was. Thankfully the A1 is busy chugging away printing nicknacks and toys for the daughter- but no way is it up to the task of printing minis that are worth painting.

[@zi0]

I mean.... Yeah if you really don't want a resin printer, then I guess this can work. But the quality is extremely poor compared to resin

[@nopenope5598]

I used this video as a way to show a friend who wants to mainly print and paint OPR minis that he REALLY wants a resin printer. I love your videos and have used your settings myself, but for someone who menu just wants minis, and has the space to dedicate to a resin printer, an FDM printer really isn't a great choice.

[@kristofferroberg4670]

Really interesting with FDM prints but anyone into minis, who cares about printing time? Isn't it all about what quality you can achieve or if the quality deficiency will be seen after painting?

[@sofiasoderstrand3094]

Time is valuable. If I want to paint miniatures, I want to actually have miniatures to paint. Hope that helps

[@kristofferroberg4670]

​@@sofiasoderstrand3094well that's interesting. So if the print time would be 12h / mini which seems to be considered really long in this video. You would be able to print more than 10 mins per week. How many do you paint per week?? If it's more than 10 you should either be SUPER fast, careless painter or do nothing but painting minis 😅

[@crimson182]

Or you could get the Elegoo Saturn 4 and print the whole thing in about 1h40m with better detail.

[@FelixTheAnimator]

With a side of bladder cancer.

[@crimson182]

@FelixTheAnimator you don't thing melting plastic indoors isn't doing that?

[@johnchase7667]

Friends don't let friends FDM print warcraft minis

[@rosly_yt]

No discussion of painting in the video, unfortunately. If you only plan on spending an hour per mini painting, then a 63 hour total print time is pretty atrocious. But I think most people who want to paint minis want to take their time. At 3 hours per mini, you'd need realistically 2 weeks to finish everything to a decent standard, or most of a longer holiday break. I think that roughly 6 hours per mini is fast enough that painting speed, not printing speed, is likely to be the bottleneck to getting these table-ready.

[@S_R231]

Unsure where the imaginary bottleneck kicks in. A printer, be it FDM or resin, isn’t a instant replicator. What is required from the user is a series of self-generated skill sets which focus are time management, forward planning and patience. We don’t living in an instantaneous world, and if you are lucky to experience such events it’s due to the cost of others time, foresight and effort. No to mention depleting environmental costs

[@angryeric2961]

Came to see FDM printed 40k. Instead got FDM printed knock off 40k. Down vote