I FINALLY got a 3D Printer for custom PC parts... Let's make something!

[@DanteSech]

Just a suggestion, its better 90% of the time to run prints from the SD Card, a crash o disconnect from the a laptop or computer could cause a print fail. You can connect a laptop still to send commands to the printer but to keep it safe, use the SD card :)

[@MandicReally]

This, you are one "Windows Update" away from ruined print. Run off the SD card not a printer. If you really want to run with some remote control, look into OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi. Pis are more reliable.

[@AAO-Falcon]

Yea get him running octoprint from a laptop but print of the SD card

[@KriLL325783]

Or octoprint of a pi, lets you remotely monitor/control/upload g-code and have a camera for remote monitoring.

[@DBRONCOSfan]

I run a raspberry pi 3 b with Octoprint. Never had an issue, rock solid.

[@PabzRoz]

was going to say the exact same thing. except i have a raspberry pi running octoprint and have zero issues but that's a different ball game. otherwise definitely print from sd card. much faster.

[@MortismalGaming]

Random but 2:39 those plastic straps are meant to be cut diagonally that's why you're having trouble. Used to work in retail a lot and it seems like no one ever realizes that's why they have those diagonal striations.

[@TTony5891]

The bed levelling is the number one thing to get perfect. Everything else might change the quality a bit but making sure your bed is level will give perfect first layers, and will make every other tuning process so much easier

[@Drayton2k]

This 👆🏽

[@mrfrieday5632]

this and surface bed are the 2 you need to nail asap!

[@MrTrilbe]

or microcenter could have given him a modern printer with automatic mesh bed leveling... like a few $4-500 chinese printers have

[@Grimmwoldds]

@@MrTrilbe ABL isn't really that great, and some of the ABL printers(looks straight at the CR6-SE) are worse off for having it. The lulzbot is actually pretty much at the top of what Microcenter Tustin has. It levels to the four corners automatically(and far better than the cheap Chinese printers). If your print surface is warped, you buy a new one(because it's NOT a 200 USD printer) And the most important thing(with regards to physical printer geometry) isn't bed leveling. It's actually squaring your frame(and if applicable your print gantry). Bed leveling is the step after.

[@MrTrilbe]

@@Grimmwoldds four corner bed leveling is also pretty useless since it's mostly the center of the the bed that moves because the bed is constrained at the four corners and most of the heat is at the center of the bed anyway

[@tylercollins4125]

As someone that has been 3d printing for the last 3 years, it’s so nice seeing how excited people get when they finish their first print, and how proud they are that they made something

[@volgdawg9420]

I already feel ashamed becouse the printer does the work after all.

[@thetimecapsule1680]

For as expensive of a printer that is, I'm amazed that it doesn't use silent stepper motor drivers. My CR-10 V3 came with silent drivers and the loudest part of it is the fans.

[@jhughesca5]

Creality is one of the most underrated brands.

[@MandicReally]

The TazBot Workhorse is a bit of an "older" design, I think it was released in 2018 or 2019. Quiet drivers weren't much of a thing then. More industrial focused things people just don't seem to care about quiet drivers. (There are disadvantages to stealthchop, but it really isn't a big deal.)

[@MrTrilbe]

@@MandicReally 2016 it was released, by old you mean prehistoric in printer standards lol

[@booogs]

its possible that a firmware update for the marlin software will take care of that. there are marlin updates that change the sound output (somehow) of the motors on my ender 3 and made them pretty much damn near silent.

[@MandicReally]

@@booogs it isn’t just a firmware update. Stepper Motor drivers have to be able to support StealthChop. You cannot enable it via firmware if the drivers cannot handle it. It isn’t that simple on a Creality machine either. Say an Ender 3 needs the 4.2.7 board with TMC2208 drivers or an aftermarket board.

[@3sotErik]

This is my favorite video I've seen from you in a long time. Have fun learning. It will stress you out beyond belief but it becomes its own hobby. 3 causes of frustration. 1- Learning all the settings of your sliver & what are the best plugins. 2- Learning how to fix the printer when things aren't working & deciding what to mod/upgrade. 3- Learning CAD software that isn't intuitive at all. Best of luck.

[@dersebbler9452]

For 3D printed parts right on the gpu aka where it gets warm, I would recommend not to use pla since that softenes at 60C, instead go with PETG it can withstand temperatures up to 80C without losing its form. Needs a bit higher temps and something on the glass bed (like glue stick) since it can weld itself to glass. It’s also a bit more stringy but not much (as long as you keep it dry). Also a bit more expensive but not as brittle as pla. Some good channels to learn stuff about 3D-Printing are: Thomas Sanladerer, CNC-Kitchen, makers muse and many more. Also a good resource is the beginners guide to 3D-Printing by Prusa and the Prusa knowledgebase.

[@dersebbler9452]

Also i would have recommended a prusa to start out since it just works and not much tuning or maintenance is needed. Also if something goes wrong they have extremely good costumer service and are willing to help with any problems of the printer or even printing aka correcting user error.

[@Pleasiotic1]

Jerry and Joel are friends, perhaps he could introduce him.

[@mikh9202]

Nice printer! To level the bed, print a one layer square border and measure the thickness with digital calipers. You can get it perfect that way.

[@KevinBein]

That's a brilliant method. I may have to try that.

[@BennyColyn]

Look into octoprint for remote printer control over the network, all you need is a raspberry pi which takes up much less desk space than a full laptop. Bonus points for installing the octolapse plugin to make time lapses of your print.

[@Drayton2k]

Only problem is finding a raspberry pi @ a retail price 😭

[@DBRONCOSfan]

@@Drayton2k Was going to make a comment about not needing a Pi 4. Holy shit... Pi 3B+ for 200!!!! WTF... I paid less than that for 3 3B+ Canakits a few years back...

[@viraxclone]

This. I can't remember the last time I touched the printer to begin a print, probably the week I built it a few years ago

[@ShaneWymore]

@@DBRONCOSfan what!? That's nuts! I got my Pi 4 for much less. This was about 8 months ago though and I haven't looked at prices in a while

[@DBRONCOSfan]

@@ShaneWymore Yeah, I'm still in shock after checking Amazon...

[@ensuredchaos8098]

Just a heads up, the exact type of filament you choose can make a huge difference depending on the use case. PLA tends to melt at a much lower temperature then say PETG or ABS, so if you plan to do a lot more PC parts in the future, you may want to purchase something that can tolerate the heat a bit better.

[@sammy_1_1]

Definately true, although I don't think pc parts can get hot enough to severely soften PLA to failing point. Of course, it depends what you're making.

[@Interknetz]

@@sammy_1_1 Yeah unless like me you try to make a custom 3D printed heatsink to hold a shim + some heatpipes, it should be fine xD PLA would likely only warp within a PC if it's exposed to enough heat (yes 45c+ is enough most likely), but this really depends on whether the component will be under stress for it to do so.

[@sammy_1_1]

@Russell White same here. I've had no issue with my cooling blocks/part cooler.

[@GrafTrahula]

There is always a person who thinks that if part goes into places with temperature a bit higher than room temp, you need to change to super heat resistant materials)))) i even made fan holder for my chipset on an old MB because it was around 80C and i made it so it goes straight between the radiator ribs, 3 years it works flawlessly, so PLA can hold up more than people think.

[@sammy_1_1]

@@Interknetz for a sec I thought you made an *actual heatsink* out of pla lol

[@Isaard]

I would highly recommend going with a little Rasberry Pi running Octoprint to rather than a dedicated laptop. I've been going through the 3D printing rabbit-hole and this was one of the best additions to my printer by far. More control over the printer, print history, remote access, plugins galore, etc and very easy to set up!

[@Drn10n]

You can install octiprint on a laptop

[@Lethal_Bite]

Ever heard of klipper? It also goes on a raspberry pi and was the single best upgrade I ever made. It gives you the network connectivity and control like octoprint, but does something even better. Rather than having the little 8-bit controller on your printer main board dissect the gcode and send the instructions to the motors, it uses the much more powerful pi processor to organize the gcode. It makes your printer much faster and have better precision/print quality, by virtue of having much better calculations for the motors, and having the next steps all ready planned out.

[@ericbaker8807]

Agreed. Octoprint installed on a Pi 4 and it is the best upgrade I ever made. It makes the experience so much better

[@stevewest5397]

+1 for OctoPrint. I'm running mine on a 3 year old Samsung phone, mounted to my Ender 3v2. Works great, and the phone has all the functionality you'd want from the Pi version already built in.

[@loganhaynes5650]

Probably easier to find an old laptop than a pi at the moment.

[@herbert4247]

You 3 are the most down to earth....respectful....relatable, tech youtubers. Not only does everyone respect your honesty, but i can promise you.....they feel at home.....as if phil nick is a friend and phil is in the family room with a throw over chillin playin halo......your videos are therapeutic........have a nice weekend.

[@MakeItWithCalvin]

Thank you for making the statement early on about you the operator being responsible for making the most of what you got. I really wish people had that mentality coming into this, and other hobbies. I wish you the best with getting into this rabbit hole.

[@viseversa101]

This is what this channel is about, welcome back to your core and a happy new beginning journey to what you felt you lost months ago on content. I'm excited to see the upcoming 3d printing content. Struggles and all, I've personally adventured down the printing path within the past year and am up to 3 printers currently and would favor your words and content above all else. Calibration, profiles, projects, ins and outs, struggles, mods, the whole thing. Good luck on your journey and welcome to the club!

[@hergen3593]

Since you want to use 3d printed parts in builds i would recommend you use PETG rather than PLA and for controlling the printer instead of using a Laptop i would recommend a Raspberry Pi with octoprint.

[@tyswid]

Cries in raspi shortage

[@neptarclepuffin]

High temps?

[@v4lgrind]

Might want to try out PLA for a few weeks first though. PETG comes with it's own problems such as more stringing and taking chunks out of his glass bed. PLA is more forgiving while doing starter mistakes.

[@MauDib]

Raspberry Pi 3B+ or Zero 2 W are more than sufficient for OctoPrint. OctoPrint management really helps get the most out of your printer.

[@MauDib]

@@wojtek-33 PLA doesn't handle temps very well. It can begin to deform at 45-50°C, so anything that might experience increased temps, you're better off using PETG or ABS.

[@stevewest5397]

DUDE. I'm working on an antique radio cabinet PC, and your video on how to set up the tiny monitoring screen was EXACTLY what I needed for that build. Since then, I bought a 3D printer (3 months ago) and am preparing to print various bezels and mounts for the inside of my build, including my own screen bezel, so that my monitor screen will fit where the front frequency display used to be on the radio. Keep making this kind of content, I am SO here for it.

[@802Garage]

Exciting stuff! I wanna note it really shows how far technology has come when it's about as easy to get a 3D printer working now as it was to get a normal printer working in the 90s. 😂

[@racefreak9488]

Easy ?😂😂😂 U can fuck so much Stuff Up when U dont understand the slicer and its stettings

[@802Garage]

@@racefreak9488 Something tells me you didn't experience 90s printers... ;)

[@QueenSaffryn]

Congrats on owning the only working printer >< I've never encountered one that works as advertised, they always drop connection, uninstall themselves from windows etc, be it wired or wireless :P

[@TShearPhoto]

@@QueenSaffryn Prusa might be worth a try. I've never had a single issue with mine which has been blowing my mind

[@Lt.Shineysides89]

what's a working printer? never heard of that 🤣

[@spankyavalon]

Something that helped me when I was first starting out is to remember.. This is a Hobby. You will have jobs fail, you will have long 2 day prints, come back to it and see the filament had knots. Don't stress, and have fun. Some helpful things for me: get a PEI Sheet. I find they help with bed adhesion and much easier to replace a PEI sheet than your whole print surface, and it's cleaner than using glue sticks.

[@AnIdiotwithaSubaru]

Also, a raspberry pi running octoprint is massively better than the laptop that jay was saying he wanted to use for this. laptops are just bad for this application in so many ways

[@spankyavalon]

@@AnIdiotwithaSubaru I was going to mention that, but like 50 other people also did that already lol I wish I knew why mine keeps saying under voltage though.

[@AnIdiotwithaSubaru]

@@spankyavalon I feel you. All my pi threes have that issue. Only my pi 4 I have on one of 5 printers doesn't have that issue. I wish I bought more pi 4(s) before they became unobtainium. To others that are about to say "gEt a BEtteR caBLe ANd PoWEr briCK" I tried tons of good quality cables and power bricks and it didn't help

[@trayvibez399]

@@AnIdiotwithaSubaru part of the issue comes from the cable connecting the pi 3s to the printer port carrying power. To remedy this you can get data only cables or use a small piece of tape to cover over the power contacts.

[@spankyavalon]

You don't have the issue with the PI4? Maybe I should swap the sd card from the 3 to the 4 I have

[@PeterFaria]

“We’ll go ahead and print this again…” Welcome to 3D printing!

[@Darkxfin]

i only got into 3d printing because new workplace has one and its been so much fun, planning to get one to myself in somepoint but gonna wait and see what new is coming because 3d print world changing alot in short time

[@PabzRoz]

literally lol. I have a giant box just filled to the brim with test print after test print. makes me wanna invest in those filament machines where you can blend up your prints and recycle them to make new filament.

[@PeterFaria]

@@PabzRoz my most used print is a vase I use as a trash/recycle bin for failed prints

[@PabzRoz]

@@PeterFaria lmao sounds about right

[@herbert4247]

Hi jay.....just wanted to let you know......your personality along with Phil and nick is very comforting.......thank you.

[@doziertech]

3D Printing Yesssss lets get real creative Jay love your work.

[@AironixHdx]

@Jayztwocents Cura has a setting called Ironing, that makes both the top layer smooth as well. (it takes a bit more time bc it just moves over the whole print with a hot nozzle to effectivaly "iron" it). Good luck in the maker community, looking forward to your mods!

[@pacboygamer6728]

i didn't know that. cool

[@EMILE12345678901]

I hadn't realized how far behind Taz printers are. This is using designs and parts from at least 4 years ago, can hear it in the motors and that hotend is the old titan aero that has been mostly made obsolete now.

[@Corndog1]

What would you say is the most "modern" company right now. I have an Ender 3 V2, and its way quieter than this one.

[@7shortofperfection]

@@Corndog1 just depends on the model. Creality has some good newer models and some older ones. There's a company called voxelab that makes an ender 3 v2 clone that's just as good for about $100 less

[@EMILE12345678901]

@@Corndog1 tbh nowadays even if there are a ton of chinese printers and all that, your only real options if you don't want 100% garbage is creality, prusa or the artillery printers. Everything else is just trying to copy one of those. Then if you go up in prices you have Ultimaker and Raise3D that make good stuff, but as you go higher in price, the ecosystem becomes more and more closed and it gets harder to modify the printer yourself and keep it up to date. So the actual sweet spot is 100% diy projects like the Hevort, Voron, MGN Cube, and other similar projects built by their open source communities. You can get kits for those printers online or source the parts yourself, so it becomes a platform that evolves with your skills and knowledge.

[@MR4tylelolHD]

And for that price... I was looking for this coment. The printer, in the website, is marked as 2 950 dollars... That's wayyy too much for that. Ok, microcenter had it, but he would be better off with a prusa, in my opinion.

[@MR4tylelolHD]

The goddamn prusa XL with dual extrusion is cheaper than this one...

[@fattomandeibu]

Great content on several levels here. Not only something new, but you being almost as clueless on the subject as me the viewer really helps IMO. All the professionally made 3D printing content I've seen are presented by experts who already have and assume a certain level of knowledge before going in. If this were a series of ongoing "Jay levels up his 3D printing technique" and a bit more in depth, I think you'll be on a winner.

[@Lumpydonut]

When you replace filament its a lot easier to just snip it close to the extruder, and manually feed the new filament in following the little chunk that's left. Keeps the melted shmoo out of your gears

[@ShadVonHass]

Dang that's a good idea, thanks.

[@Killerjack007]

Welcome to the Club Jay and don't worry the best part of 3d printing is if you're unhappy with how your printer is designed (Spool , etc) you can always print something to suit your needs. I'd say look into running Klipper on an raspberry pi 3 or 4 or a rpi zero 2 w which will handle it as well if you want faster prints and same or more quality , you can get so much more from Klipper than you can from stock firmware but it requires you to go one step further since its a bit more indepth to setup but worth in my opinion. Also getting a flexplate if you dont want to wait for your prints to cooldown is a good starting investment (you really dont wanna use the scrapper unless its a plastic scrapper) And even with lulzbot making good printers the one you have is a bed slinger (Cartesian) , if you decide to get a second one, consider getting a Corexy (RatRig v3 , prusa XL , etc) they allow more speed and quality in general.

[@Altirix_]

recommend looking into klipper and bed mesh. the bed level issue you have with one side being higher than the other could be the x axis sagging on the side that doesn't have a motor but cant really tell for that specific printer, just looks quite uniform to a single side is an indication it might be that ime.

[@joro7770]

He dropped thousands on his first printer... He's definitely not thinking that far ahead.

[@ThisOLmaan]

yeah saw a video on that sagging issues, definitely correct having to do with t he Axis

[@PandaPeej]

I got into 3D printing back in 2015, and watched a ton of Jerry's videos while I waited on my first printer to ship out to me. Love seeing you get into this about 9 years after I started watching your videos too. Looks like you're going into this with the right user mindset. You've got plenty of friends and mods that are heavy into this stuff so that'll be a big help going on too. Cant wait to see some oddities from that machine and more in the future from time to time.

[@crazyace63]

Keep an eye on the pla screen surround in the pc. The temps you can get in there might warp it with PLA. If that happens do another one out of PETG. I used to print with pla when I started but now it’s mainly PETG that holds up for higher temps.

[@broderp]

Been 3D printing for years. The Ender Series (Ender 3 Pro, etc.) are the best machines to learn on. My Ender was so good when my skill set got better, rather than upgrade to a new printer, I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro. Still hands down the easiest printer to own and operate. Use Cura and Fusion 360 and you can design and print anything, but be forewarned, there is a large learning curve to success, especially on the software side of things.

[@sizaint]

Holy cow so glad I got the ender 3 v2 silent drivers lol

[@zeke7515]

I mentioned something similar. For the price being over 10x-30x an Ender-3 pro from Microcenter ($99), you'd think they'd have made the shift to silent drivers by now.

[@microArc]

welcome to the makerspace! good to have you here! I'm very excited to see how your adventure unfolds

[@Strengenn]

One and a half idiot and Jay instantly goes "Im the half!" Jay you are so amazing and funny and im glad i found your channel 10 years ago. I've been following you ever since!

[@Dillinger86]

The first video I ever saw was him building a PC on a carpet.. He was too goofy not to keep watching. XD

[@earthtaurus5515]

@@Dillinger86 Likewise, didn't have a youtube account back then and thanks to his XFX RX480 Review I lucked out with my trusty XFX RX 480 GTR Black Edtion. Man, can't believe it's still chugging along nicely for many games to date.

[@danielschulz4930]

Glad to see you taking this on! A couple of suggestions. 1. Using a dedicated laptop for this is a bit silly. It would be more reliable and less expensive to get a raspberry pi and install octoprint with an Octopi image. 2. NEVER print PETG directly on your glass bed unless you want it permanently affixed. Always apply something on it to avoid this. Have fun!

[@acdriisk]

Also you can turn on something called ironing to get a smoother top layer and you can also change the intial layer pattern to make it look funky. But you're completely correct on the deeeeep rabbit hole that 3d printing is.

[@sammy_1_1]

Might have to turn down the flow slightly... I've noticed that around 6-8% is usually better than the default 10%

[@Swesen]

I've had 3D printers and am even a trained 3D technician. The first thing I want to say is use an SD card, prints can take many hours or even days, and it just takes one sleep mode, connection loss or windows update to have to start over. And make sure the SD card is ejected or that you are sure that the file has been fully written, gcode is just a text file, and if the SD card is pulled out before the file is fully written the printer will go one for a while before reaching the write error. Some printers can recover from a power outage(unsure if the TAZ can) when using an SD card. If you feel like an SD card is a hassle octopi on a raspberry pi 3 or later has worked great for years. Levering the bed and getting the right first layer height is key. Print like a small cube, and if the nozzle is too close on the first layer the walls will curve outward at the bottom and if it is too high it will curve inwards. If the print isn't sticking unless you have it too close, increase the first layer line thickness to like 0.45mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle. Keeping the printer in as much of a closed space as possible can prevent a lot of warping issues even for PLA which many says doesn't warp. Things can warp more or less depending on geometry, larger boxes for example will warp in the corners and can sometimes be reduced or removed by chamfering the corner of the model even by a little.

[@Synard66]

Next episode Jay 3D prints a full custom case and water cooling loop

[@FoolOfATuque]

Jay, Teaching Tech is a KZbin channel and he has a good calibration guide. Running through this calibration has really improved the prints on my printer

[@zeke7515]

Wow, for how expensive that printer is, you'd think it would be silent. My Ender 3 is quieter than that thing at 1/10th (1/30th with Microcenter's new customer $99 deal) the price. Like the project though! Came out great.

[@drbeandog4209]

@@asanchez1000 so you don't hear it *Edit: I responded to someone saying "why would you want a silent printer"

[@elias5000]

I had the same thought. TCM2208 drivers aren't even expensive.

[@liquicitizendirk2147]

This thing seems weird. The stepper drivers are screaming and at this price point I'd expect a touchscreen, as well as some other small stuff. The print seems fine at least.

[@SlimPickins_07]

First thing I thought too when he fired it up.

[@Impecable..]

All he needs is silent stepper drivers (like TMC 2208 or 2209) and ittl be silent

[@PabzRoz]

as someone who recently got into 3d printing this year watching you go thru everything i had to go thru is kinda funny lol. 3d printing is a rabbit hole of information that will take you a little while to iron everything out where you're completely happy and can fix any scenario you run into.

[@theheadone]

I hope you got that printer for free. It's way too expensive for how old of technology it uses. Congrats on getting into 3d printing though, it'll open up a lot of doors.

[@GizmoTheGreen]

sounds noisier than an anet a8.. geez. we've had silent steppers for years now.

[@Skreamies]

This, I have a slightly older now Ender 3 that i've put a silent board into (now they come with it) only thing I can hear now is the PSU fan lol and it's like 1/20 of the price of this and probably makes better quality prints

[@frankb5728]

Yeah, that is incredibly expensive for what you get. Ultimaker is expensive but they contribute to the industry as a whole.

[@3DJLab]

Well. He can 3d print better 3d printer with it.

[@ge2719]

@eric yeah, and the one thing about this printer that seemed at first like might be helpful was the bed leveling, and from that first print, it seems to suck.

[@ChristopherKlepel]

As a 3D printer enthusiast, I love the way you described the quality of the printer and user competence, And I think photography is a perfect example. From now on when I talk to people about price I will compare it to cameras an expert can get a perfect shot with any camera but an expensive camera makes it easier and will last longer

[@briangardner6190]

I’m sure it’s already been said, but I loved using octoprint loaded into a raspberry pi VS using a SD card or UBS connection through a laptop.

[@outlet6989]

Excellent, as always. You are my hero. As in ASUS Hero MB. Definitions. Uninboxing: the opposite of inboxing. Inboxing: putting something in a box. That part showing how to insert the filament. Same as me attempting to load my Weedeater with a new cutting line. OMG. You have something I don't have! Yet. I'll need some help from my 10-year-old grandson when I get mine. So simple, even a child can do it! And, for your next video: "I uninbox my wife's new digital sewing machine." Maybe, on your trip back to the shop, you could have stopped at a bookstore and bought a copy of "3D Printing for Dummies."

[@WestCoastADV]

get octoprint :D then you can print remotely without needing a PC attached you just need a raspberry pi... then you can model and slice from your main PC and send remotely to your printer.. and for the top layers you can enable ironing ( feature in Cura ) and it will make it smooth.. and you also get auto leveling sensors... lots of content :P Dooo ittttt

[@PabzRoz]

i couldn't imagine living without octoprint and my bl touch lol. being able to slice a model on my pc and just click print and not have to worry about leveling the bed or running over to my printer to print everything is a god send. just lay back and periodically check the progress through the webcam. completely changes the game.

[@OddlyIncredible]

If you think 3D printing is a rabbit hole, I can one-up you on that: I built my 3D printer from scratch without following someone else's plans. That's a rabbit hole within which exists another rabbit hole in some twisted form of rabbit-ception. My machine is nice as hell, though - it basically has _almost all_ of the bells and whistles (direct drive, auto bed leveling with touch sensing, detachable build plate, 12"/310mm^3 build volume, dual Z drive, drag chains for all cables, total network control via Klipper/Mainsail, 7" touchscreen local control as well, 300C/110C hotend/bed capability, soft-touch pushbutton power control, and mine's much quieter than the Lulzbot), and I'm working on the last few features (currently printing a filament feed sensor slash jam/clog detector) now.

[@MyLeoOne]

I'd advise against printing over usb from the laptop, it can be very spotty and cause issues. Load the gcode to the SD card so you remove one layer of possible failure

[@ge2719]

exactly, they have sd card slots for a reason. theres no need to also have a computer running 24/7 is just a waste of a computer and power.

[@corgano6068]

something to keep in mind with bed adhesion, the bed shrinks and expands differently than the part: The idea behind letting it cool is to let the bed shrink and let go of the print. With a heated bed you could even flip the glass over and print on bare borosilicate glass - as long as it's hot and clean, the pastick will stick, it will give a VERY glossy finish for flat shiny surfaces, and it's basically impossible to damage it with a metal tool / scraper

[@joshuahuman1]

welcome to the world of 3d printing instead of of dedicating a laptop to it get a raspberry pi and use the os octoprint. It allows you to control the printer remotely on any browser on your local network.

[@sfcoawol6273]

If your having a problem with your prints curling on the edges but don't want to build an enclosure i found draping a simple emergency blanket over your printer is enough to hold the heat in and helps mitigate that

[@kdb424]

It's nice to see what 3D printing was like 6 years ago. We've come so far from when that printer released.

[@keegantheveganat0r]

shit printer innit... im surprised he bought it tbh

[@kdb424]

@@keegantheveganat0r It's louder than my printer while it does 1000mm/s travels. I was getting used to that being the norm, so it was actually nice to see where we came from, but a sponsor spot for free stuff ain't bad. It'll print for sure.

[@madbull4666]

@@kdb424 Yep its amazing to see how far printers have evolved in the past 6 years. For someone that looks everything up to the very smallest detail I'm surprised jay didn't look this printer up at all. So many great printers out their, especially your VZbot, and he choose this.

[@TheStarfreak911]

I haven't seen it in the first section of comments, but a concrete slab and some foam underneath the printer (printer > concrete > foam > table) will make a noticeable difference in terms of sound. It isolates the vibrations caused by the stepper motors from reaching the floor. I know it makes a difference in a home environment but not sure about concrete flooring such as you have in the warehouse, but it's a really cheap option and worth the try. As someone else mentioned, it is a bit surprising the step motor/drivers are so noisy on what I imagine isn't a very budget option. But upgrading those is a bit more involved possibly involving a mainboard swap-out depending on firmware compatibility (no clue regarding that printer). Welcome to 3D printing. Will be interesting to see how you integrate the technology into future projects.

[@sarahskileth6925]

Congratulations! I've recently gotten a 3D Printer myself and it's a painful thing to learn

[@Jakob3xD]

No learning is the fun part.... fustration because something broke and you dont know what or the mod you did donwgrades your printer is pain

[@craazyy22]

@@Jakob3xD what mod have you done that downgraded the printer?

[@sarahskileth6925]

@@Jakob3xD true

[@SevenHunnid]

I got fired from my job because i almost fought my 50 year old coworker.. and It got toxic yo so now, i spend most of my time smoking weed on my KZbin channel now, meanwhile i get back to the hustle lmao

[@crawlerin]

Maybe it depends on what printer you got as your first ;-)

[@0x000a5]

The folks at that microcenter are the most knowledgeable people about 3d printers I have ever met!

[@AveryChow]

here's a few things I remember from using this printer myself: - try using Octoprint and a cheap little raspberry pi to run prints, instead of USB. I've had cases where the laptop connected to the printer died, and it ruined prints. not fun. - NEVER connect an SD card and Octoprint at the same time! I think it's fine if you connect a PC running Cura and an SD card it should be fine. it causes smoke if you have both octoprint and an SD card connected at the same time - it should auto level the bed itself, but sometimes it just doesn't, and you have to fiddle around in the menus trying to figure out manual leveling. for octoprint: - I couldn't for the life of me find a proper octoprint profile for this printer. don't get discouraged at the setup, though. look around on Google to see what values you should put in for bed size/whatever else. I bet it's fixed by now but I dunno - connect a camera to your raspberry pi, and then connect Cura to Octoprint. if you do this, you can send prints from Cura to Octoprint, and get a live camera feed! if you don't have a camera for the pi, then the whole Cura connection will still work, but no camera feed :( - the spaghetti detective is a pretty cool extension

[@justinmilam545]

I purchased my ender 3 and immediately replaced the control board with the big tree tech SKR V2 (I think V3 is out now). It does an amazing job for a total of $210! I would highly recommend it for those that don't want to or can't spend a lot of money. You don't even have to do the board upgrade right away or at all, it just makes the prints a little smoother and eliminates the stepper motors noise.

[@slaveNo-4028]

3d printer prints a test file that comes with the printer. Jay: "I did that!" - and is super happy Sometimes I'm jealous and wish I could feel as accomplished as other people do when they achieve even minor things

[@nickjanowski3200]

Welcome to the club!!! My interest into 3d printing was/is Flight Sim Cockpit parts! It's amazing what these machines can do for you!

[@frank6048]

Wait, you're gonna put that on the GPU? I hope that GPU is as cool as a block of ice unless you want that filament all over your PC

[@SlimPickins_07]

The GPU won't get hot enough to melt that lol

[@BeatsbyVegas]

It’s water cooled so it wont be above ~45C

[@YouStillTryin]

I know your mainly a pc channel but I’d love to see more 3d printing on this channel. There’s something about 3d printing that’s not only fun to do yourself but it’s entertaining to watch.

[@isaacreicin4836]

When it comes to filament, Polymaker makes some of the best out there. When your more acclimated to 3D printing keep an eye on Polymax PC-FR Flame retardant. It's super heat resistant and is flame retardant. Just something to keep an eye on when it comes to filament.

[@jamesbowling9293]

I've played around with computers/electronics since I was little(im 25) and I had literally never, ever, seen one of those Type B usb cables before, never even really heard of them, just kind of vaguely knew they existed. I now work repairing and maintaining ATM's. In my particular region most ATMs were made in like 08-12. I see SO FREAKING many of those usb tybe B cables now. Most of the modules use them on the older machines, and even on the new ones the main core components dispenser and acceptor and card readers etc, still use them. and have multiple of them within each module. Its a real kick to open up a machine and see all the new tech and old tech being mixed together, cause its cheaper to manufacture that way.

[@brendonv101]

Look into buying a filament heated enclosure to keep them dry. They absorb moisture and make imperfections over time. Some filaments are worse than others. If you ever want to print ABS for car parts, you'll need an enclosure as it needs high ambient temp and no drafts.

[@jasonarnaldo8126]

Glad to see you got your first printer! You will now be sucked into this hobby and will enjoy it. There are frustrating set backs, but its part of the process. Always remember level your bed! You will hear this A LOT.

[@invaderjae]

Yeah, I know a few people have said this. But I would definitely print from the SD card over USB. The printer will work way better that way. And you have less chance of something interrupting the print on the PC side.

[@TheEthNick]

3D Printing always impresses me. I reckon this channel will invent stuff not seen anywhere else. I have a Print Request: GPU shroud with an inbuilt fan mount. It’s been done before & it worked big time in terms of lowering temps, so I’m hoping GPU manufacturers start making them, & if a channel like this can prove how effective they are, they may consider it!

[@dStruct619]

The Ender 3 is a really solid printer, not sure about the Lulzbot taz personally. What I can tell you from many years of first hand experience is setup and calibration is EVERYTHING, getting the settings right will make or break your prints. I setup, operated, and supported an entire fleet of 3D printers for years, and if you want really good quality, repeatable prints that come out consistent and look really good, then the most important thing to do is figure out a way to enclose the printer to shield it from the AC, even if it's across a room from a vent it will show in the prints, you will see is very visible shift in the print from when the AC kicks on and off, regardless of printer brand. Another huge thing is mmmmoisture content in the filament, look into building an air tight box that can feed filament directly to the bowden tube all sealed off from atmosphere, a good example would be a rubbermaid container with o-ring sealing lid, you can drill a hole for a pushlock fitting for the bowden tube, etc. Typically this will cause what look like bubbles over what should be smooth/flat surfaces. You can also set up something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi to monitor the humidity in the filament container, and decide on how you want to remove mmmmoisture from the filament. Those things will make a VERY big difference in print quality, and consistency. Also the brand of filament can impact print quality some but it's usually not nearly as big of a deal. Also something to consider is the actual drivers that drive the motors, to put it in simple terms the driver chips themselves cause the robot sounds the printer makes, and you can replace either the drivers themselves, or on some of the non-upgradable controller boards, you can replace then entire controller board with motor drivers made by Trinamic Motion Control aka TMC, they make a number of quality motor drivers. I hope that helps lessen the 3D printing rabbit hole. :)

[@jon2958]

Lot's of little variable to learn about for 3dprinting, but glad you are getting into it. Learning about different materials can be fun and what each material requires(temp, spacing, harder nozzle,). This can also branch over into other hobbies like your car stuff. As long as you use high temp materials like abs, you can print interior car parts. Recently i 3d printed a mount for ttops on an 82 camaro.

[@smite0568]

Octoprint Print on Raspberry Pi, been running it for years now and always rock solid. I hate using SD cards. It also gives you tons of control over your printer

[@Lethal_Bite]

I'm sure Jay has heard many times now to use octoprint on a pi for his printer, so hopefully this comment doesn't get buried. Jay, If you do go the pi route, rather than using octoprint, I highly recommend Klipper. It gives the wireless monitoring and control function that octoprint has, but with one huge upgrade. Instead of using the 8-bit microcontroller on the main board of your printer to do gcode calculations, it uses the MAGNITUDES more powerful pi CPU to do the calculations. It's like the difference between rendering a video with an athlon from 2003 vs a modern day threadripper. Your printer will be able to print BOTH faster and more accurately by virtue of having better instruction sets for the motors. It will save time and improve quality. Seriously the best thing I ever did to my printer.

[@PrivateInfo-c9q]

I would recommend a few things that folks said: 1) Print off the SD card, it is more reliable and (on some printers) allows you to do lost power recovery AND 2) Use PETG within a computer (or saltwater aquarium, ask me how I know lol). PLA has a lower melting temp WHICH may occur inside of a computer case.

[@jasonbecker86]

Holy crap, I don't comment often but this episode is exactly why I love to watch this channel. You guys produce great content, really dialed into an approachable and hilariously engaging format.

[@Xenon-rl1me]

you 100,000% should have contacted Makers Muse and asked him his perspective on that unit. Super super talented maker. Very knowledgeable on 3D Printers.

[@Deighvihd]

You can get specific bed-leveling prints that print large first layers, then adjust the bed while it is printing to get absolutely perfect first layers. The first layer is absolutely the most important one because it determines bed adhesion and quality of the rest of the print

[@rashkavar]

Going purely by what I know about the physics, if you want a scraper tool that will be very easy on the glass, you're going to want something "soft." This is in the technical sense of being on the lower end of the hardness scale, not in the sense of being squishy (that would be a low elastic modulus). You might know this from the Mohs scale - how diamond is the hardest mineral and basically impossible to scratch unless you're using another diamond? Glass typically has a hardness of about 6 on the Mohs scale, which means anything above that rating will scratch it, and anything below that rating will be scratched by it. Steel varies a lot depending on use, but most tools use hardened steel which is in the 6.5-8 range, meaning it will consistently scratch glass. Lots of other tool materials are even higher. Generally high hardness is a good thing for tools, so we tend to pick materials that are very hard. That way your tools stay sharp longer and don't get scratched to hell. And most things you're working on, if you're concerned about the final finish, you're going to do a polishing run on anyway, so scratching them is fine. This gets somewhat more complicated because glass is a thing that varies rather a lot. That rating of 6 covers basic silica glass, but there's lots of fancy things that we call glass. Borosilicate Glass (trade name PYREX) is a big one for cookware and lab equipment because it responds well to heating (ie: does not explode. If it's actually borosilicate glass, they've since diversified the brand to include other materials that are rather less unbreakable, having discovered that an unbreakable product does not generate repeat customers in need of replacements for their broken products. There's also the Gorilla Glass used in modern phones which is picked for a higher hardness than steel, so that phones carried with keys in one's pocket avoid getting scratched. (They're still scratchable with harder things, which can include some proportion of sand and dirt particles because those are just mixtures of really small broken bits of rock from wherever. They're probably not diamond, but there's a lot of really hard minerals out there that will scratch the heck out of steel and this new glass variant). If you want to play it safe, though, you'd pick a material that's on the low end of the Mohs scale. Most plastics are around 2.5 on the scale, while copper, brass and bronze are all about 3. Unhardened steels come in at 4-4.5, though you might have difficulty being sure that it's not hardened steel. The easiest way to test if it'll scratch glass is to take a piece of glass you don't particularly care about, and try to scratch the tool with the glass. If it leaves a mark, then try to use the tool to scratch the glass. If the glass scratches the tool and the tool does not scratch the glass, then you've found something that's the right hardness.

[@RaduCiprian]

Got myself a 3d printer 2 weeks ago, love it. Love to see more content on this topic

[@bentibz2750]

Nice to know you started the 3d printing hobby. What I think about this hobby is we learn by trial and error, dont be afraid to experiment and ask other 3d enthusiasts, the community is very helpful. If you get the hang of it and decide fir another machine try Creality Ender 3 S1 youre gonna love it

[@corty1980]

Jay, funny story a neigbour of mine said to me if I could 3d print him an extension. Looked on line for a 3D model of said extension and could only find paid models, decided I didn't want that on my credit record. Some time passed by and decided to look again and found a free model, and decided to print it as big as my 3D printer could go, with my machine being able to print upto 17inches. Decided that my white print needed some colour, so painted said model. I then went online and found the details of an overseas adult store and printed a label and a receipt and made it look as if it was a oversea delivery. I spoke to my neigbour a few days latter and he didn't know it was me who had given him the package and thought it was an old army buddy.

[@g33z31]

Dude Phil, Jay and Nick, everytime I start any video of y'all and the slow vibe with the music in the background just brings me down so much, I love it. I'm getting relaxed and start to breathe deeply and I only relax and keep watching. Thanks for all your amazing work all these years, keep at it guys.

[@gatedfuzz]

ive been watching for about a month now. and youve been a great help. seriously. if you do more 3D printing videos, i wont have to watch ANYONE ELSES VIDEOS ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE

[@joeb5316]

For those plastic pallet straps, you can easily pop them by finding the heat-sealed ends, flipping the joint over, and then peeling the bottom one up. Faster than fetching a box cutter or knife, especially if it's dull.

[@ShaneWymore]

Welcome to the Club Jay! So much fun, I love modifications, upgrades, and 3D Printing in general.

[@Skyspace187]

Don't feel bad Jay, this is nearly what most of us walked through on our first printers, regardless of the brands we got. I've been doing it for 3 years now and I've grown to 5 printers, all with their unique challenges. I hope you discover speed printing, that TAZ-bot can print faster than that.

[@bummer6]

just a tip from a cosplayer who routinely 3D prints stuff and sands it smooth enough that you can't tell it was 3D printed; there's a kind of spray-filler primer you can use which will help fill in a lot of the print lines. You still have to do a lot of sanding, but it definitely helps a lot over just using a regular primer.

[@ShadeAssault]

Got into 3D printing a year and half ago myself. As others here have already said, those stepper drivers are LOUD! Best upgrade I have made so far is upgrading the stepper drivers on my Anycubic MegaX to TMC2208's. All I can hear is the fans and the bed belt squeaking now. Not sure how the Lulzbot TAZ is setup (Or how to upgrade it) - I only know of it from looking up the company after a 3D Printing Nerd video. Very expensive is all I remember. Now you get to learn how to 3D model so you can make custom stuff for yourself! Can't wait to see how you use this going forward.

[@ge2719]

with the way you got uneven line thickness on the right hand side of the first layer, either the bed leveling was off a little bit meaning the right side was closer to the nozel and so the lines get squashed more. OR this could also be a slight amount of over extrusion that creates a build up of filament that then gets pushed around and builds up as it goes along, so it starts off looking okay but as more filament gets over extruded it builds and builds and builds and the lines get worse. reducing the extrusion multiplier would be needed to correct that, theres a whole calibration procedure for ensuring its extruding the right length of filament. Typically you tell the printer to extrude 10cm of filament, then you measure it and check, and it'll likely be extruding 10.6cm or something like that, then you have to calculate a multiplier to turn that into exactly 10cm.. 100 /106 = 94.3% will be your extrusion multiplier, if the default multiplier was set to 100 also you said one side was lifting up, if its not the bed leveling with the nozzle being too far away from the bed on the left side, causing it to lift off. that could be down to another issue, the most rookie error of 3d printing, sitting and staring at it. and trust me, i did this many times myself, sit there and stare at the print as it going then start to get one corner peeling up and so you start getting in close trying to fiddle with things and poking at it, Its your breath. as silly as it sounds just breathing at your print can cool the plastic and the bed enough to create a curvature in the plastic and cause it to lift off on one corner, then the next layers get smushed into it and make it worse and worse and worse and you ruin an entire corner. Since learning to ignore my prints, and closing my sliding wardrobe doors over it, to create a sort of make shift enclosure, i never get that issue ever any more. But it happened a lot the first week i got the printer..... DOH. Build an enclosure, or once the bed is definitely level, learn to trust it, and leave it, and dont go near it. dont put it anywhere theres a draft, or human traffic, opening closing doors etc. also if you want to get a nicer finish on the top surface you will have to look into "ironing". i've tried it a few times myself, and its again something you have to learn and dial in the settings to get a goo result. As far as the first layer, sanding isnt really an option with pla. if you want a super smooth finish you have to high build primer it, and sand the primer to the finish you want and then paint. Sanding pla will just scratch it and dull the surface, it looks awful.

[@jwadie]

A couple of things that can help avoid the warping you had would be to use glue stick or hair spray, along with a brim. If you notice a hole seems slightly smaller than it should be, check out the "horizontal expansion" setting in cura.

[@GuusKlaas]

Jay, love the content. Welcome to 3D printing (though 2.85mm filament is wow to me). It's a fun hobby with a lot of ins and outs. There's motors, stepper drivers, voltages, speed, acceleration, and a tonne of stuff! There's a lot to learn, and once you go down that rabbit hole, there's no coming out. I've even started printing water cooling stuff! I started at an Ender 3, but worked my way up to a RatRig V-Core 3 high performance CoreXY printer. It rocks. It also has real nice motors, and because it can do 1.75mm filament, it can melt a lot of it real quick (2.85 is something 3d printers move away from because the large area means melting is more challenging). Good luck with the printer, and looking forward to what you're going to make! Just a few quick tips though: - Instead of printing with a laptop on USB, consider a Raspberry Pi with an OS called OctoPi (it's a pre-made version of Octoprint). It allows for some cool stuff such as not having to use a laptop, selective part cancelling, camera + timelapse mode, and it saves you having to use a laptop with all the dodginess about that. (imagine Windows Update during a 36 hour print and it going stand-by). - If you really want to go cool stuff (you're a car man... car men are in some aspect also 3d printer men as you can print parts for the car too with ASA/ABS/PETG), consider Klipper as firmware. It requires a Raspberry Pi but can do stuff like resonance/motion compensation leading to speedy and pretty functional parts (prototyping is all about saving time and making more parts right when you need them) - Building/tuning the printer is almost as fun as printing itself. You have a nice printer in its basics, but there's always upgrades. High flow nozzles, 1.75mm filament support, speedy firmwares, the works. And if you want to go further: make yourself a voron/ratrig/etc... though I can see how for now it's just about the prints, and not the printer. Been following you a while. Real glad to see you go this direction!

[@ChristianBehnke]

I finally bought a Prusa i3 MK3S+ and have been going wild printing all these small ridiculous things, from readily available models for cable clips and hooks, to custom designed cabinet latches, a stand for an LED tube light, and I just started my longest print yet -- a custom LED sign! The first of five letter bodies is on the bed now with 12 hours to go, then I need to also print diffusion inserts. I have more ideas than I have print capacity. I see why these things are so addictive and why those who buy a 3D printer often buy a second one.

[@barrettdent405]

Congrats! Welcome to the fun! Definitely hope to see some collabs.

[@zachcrawford5]

I find to level the bed, what works best for me is: First heat the print bed and extruder up to your printing temperatures. Then, "home" the z (up/down) axis (basically telling the nozzle to touch the print bed) near each of the 4 corners on the print bed. While the nozzle is moving towards the bed, slip a strip of normal paper between the bed and the nozzle so that the strip gets pinched between the nozzle and bed. Once the nozzle stops moving, try to wiggle the strip of paper, if there is no resistance then the bed is too low (too far from the nozzle) in that corner and that corner of the bed needs to be raised up more, if you can't slide the paper at all or it's difficult to move it without damaging it, then the bed is too high (too close or is even colliding with the nozzle) and that corner needs to be lowered. Do this for all four corners, adjusting as you go until all 4 corner offer a slight and equal resistance to the paper being slid between the bed and nozzle. I have never had a print pop off the bed of curl up when I've done this before I started printing. You won't have to do all of this every time but it is good practice at least heat everything up and check that your bed is still level before every print. It really sucks to find that you lost a 30 hour print and $10 worth filament 25 hours into it because the print came unstuck or warped from the bed because you got complacent and skipped the 3 minutes it takes to check that the bed was set up right. Yah, this totally happened to me before.

[@brown224422]

I’m sure someone already said this but looks like you have a PEI sheet on top of the glass bed. Be careful when scraping prints off as it is just a plastic sheet and will only last so long. The glue stick that it came with is for 3d printer ring PETG. PETG is a much more durable material but will fuse to the PEI bed. If you put a couple of layers of glue stick down the PETG won’t fuse to the bed and you will be able to get your print off. Also, I assume it came with the purple glue stick. Once you run out only replace it with the purple glue glue stick. LUZ bots used to come with a bed leveling print that will make a one layer print around the printer and you can visually see the line width to help leveling. For post processing if you wanted to paint the parts you can use a primer and filler spray paint that will fill in the layers and make it smooth so you don’t have to sand everything down. Then you can paint it whatever color you want. Good luck 3d printing is a fun hobby and you can do amazing things with it.

[@450bigpat666]

YAY!!! I can't wait to see what you'll do with it!! I've followed you for 5 years I think and always asked myself what customization you would come up with a 3D printer! Long shot in the dark, but if you need 3d modelization Im a CAD designer by trade! Ill do whatever you want for free! Thanks for all the content Jay! Patrick

[@custom3dm363]

Congrats and welcome to the world of 3d printing. Can't wait to see what you come up with when you get more comftorable with 3d printing.

[@Deadmisfit]

I would also recommend the Scotch blue Painters tape to glue stick . I have been 3d printing FDM for Over a year and the blue tape is such a time save on bed adhesion vs glue stick

[@My03corvette]

There will be a ton of comments from all us 3D printer guys. Get Octoprint set up on the printer. I'm betting you have a Raspberry Pi sitting around somewhere. It will prevent crashing and you will be able to run the printer from literally anywhere, including an app on your phone. You also have a super reliable printer. We used 6 of those while I was in engineering school. They ran pretty much non-stop every day that the building was open.

[@Fisheiyy]

You have a lot to learn Jay, 1. You should probably setup a 3D Printer Monitoring/Controlling software called Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi 3 or 4 (doesnt really matter) so you dont have to dedicated a whole laptop to the printer rather, you can just go to the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and via upload the gcode via its web interface and start/monitor the print as it has support for a webcam so you can watch the printing to make sure nothing goes wrong. 2. You can stick with the customized version of Cura that Lulzbot provides, but you can also install normal Cura 4.13.1 and setup a profile for it and tune it yourself as you can customize more to your specific printer rather than the large amount of different printers that the stock profile is meant to work with. 3. Filament matters, you might not think so but bad filament can be really stringy and inconsistent, make sure to get good filament like Overture, eSun, Polymaker, Hatchbox, Prusament. 4. You dont have to be super carefully when trying to scrape prints off the bed, the bed can handle some damage but it takes quite a bit of force to even cause a little scratch. 5. If you are going to be printing functional parts that are going to be used quite a lot and potentially dropped or under heat then you will want to print with PETG or ABS rather than PLA.

[@Interknetz]

Recommend using soapy water to clean the glass (not easy under a sink mind you), and then refrain from touching it. There's no need for the glue stick at all if you do this. Avoid using the scraper, it'll scratch your glass in no time; have patience and let the glass cool, even eventually the print will just unstick itself. Spray painting the model afterward could aid in tidying up the lines (not done this much myself but it can make for darker colors)

[@DBRONCOSfan]

3D printing is an addicting hobby for me. I bought an Ender 3 Pro and have upgraded it to the point I could have bought a Prusa printer. Duel z axis lead screws, all metal direct drive hotend, glass bed, stiff bed springs, metal bed leveling wheels, bed leveling probe, new mobo for quiet stepper motors, hundreds of dollars on filament, etc... Even flashed a custom Marlin firmware. The rabbit hole isn't a joke and it is deep, I'm not even close to the bottom either...

[@Easiermarlin33]

If you ever want to modify your printer, I would suggest getting some silent stepper motor drivers. One of the best upgrades I did to my printer IMO.