We got another 3D Printer! I have a new addiction...

Learn more about the X570 Dark from EVGA at www.evga.com/p...
Get your JayzTwoCents Merch Here! - www.jayztwocen...
○○○○○○ Items featured in this video available at Amazon ○○○○○○
► Amazon US - bit.ly/1meybOF
► Amazon UK - amzn.to/Zx813L
► Amazon Canada - amzn.to/1tl6vc6
••• Follow me on your favorite Social Media! •••
Facebook: / jayztwocents
Twitter: / jayztwocents
Instagram: / jayztwocents
SUBSCRIBE! bit.ly/sub2Jayz...

[@FilamentFriday]

Thanks for printing my CHEP Cube and CHEP Pawn. You can use my Cura profiles with the Ender 5 which should help you print better. I also have an extra fast profile to cut print time in half (with reduced quality).

[@alexzan3564]

Jay, listen to this dude!

[@Nareimooncatt]

Coming from the trucking industry, my initial thought when seeing your name is the pallet company.

[@Mystical_Zeus]

What a trip seeing you here. Would the profiles work on my Anycubic Mega X?

[@Gimpy17]

@@Nareimooncatt why would you bring back such painful memories, damn chep pallets.....

[@Nareimooncatt]

@@Gimpy17 hey, why should I suffer alone? Lol

[@dmans7707]

Been a 3D modeler for 16 years, and the moment I could hold one of my models in my hands for the first time was an overwhelmingly awesome experience.

[@Vatharian]

I agree, that's magical experience. Especially, when you're working with virtual assets your whole career.

[@C-M-E]

Same! I would put it up there when you go from high quality stills to animating your own movie and watching those first four months of work in motion for the first time.

[@creamofbotulismsoup9900]

I'm still a noob when it comes to CAD, but I understand the feeling. At least some basic modeling skills are almost a must if you own a 3d printer, it changes it from an expensive toy to an incredible tool.

[@yourhandlehere1]

@@C-M-E Ah yes, those first 4 months, ...of rendering....aaaaaand you have 10 seconds. *sigh. Poor little Core 2 duo...duoing it's best. Sure is different now.

[@dmans7707]

@@C-M-E I would love to reach that point, but right as I was figuring out character modeling in Maya, my school went bankrupt and left me to foot the bill. As much as I despise blender, gonna have to learn blander.

[@isaackvasager9957]

Just FYI Jay, you can pretty easily use modern Cura on a lulzbot. You just have to set up the "machine" yourself in the software. It's pretty simple though.

[@SolarityTechnology]

This and he needs to get OctoPrint/OctoPi. I cringe when I see people use the TFT touchscreens. He could have got 2x Voron 2.4's for the price of the lulzbot.

[@angelicsailor1st]

@@SolarityTechnology the thing is he’s getting all this for free from micro center so he’s not really “invested” I guess you could say, outside materials of course I do hope he reads your comments though it would save him time and money he is wasting right now just blindly printing

[@Revan_7even]

Modern Curac with tower or tree supports would would work much better for that Stitch model.

[@thefatmoop]

His lulzbot failing cals, I've never seen a lulzbot do that. Check the wiring harnesses, i think the cal wire is loose somewhere

[@isaackvasager9957]

@@thefatmoop no, I've used several lulzbots as well. He explained the exact issue perfectly. It relies on conductivity between the nozzle and the 4 touch points. If any plastic is oozing out of the nozzle it will insulate the connection point. This is very common on those lulzbot machines. Its a terrible design. I don't even use the auto calibration because of it.

[@marsgizmo]

3D Printing is pretty fun and definitely addictive 😎🤘

[@MakerViking]

Totally agree. And the community is awesome!

[@mrphysics2625]

@@MakerViking yea except for the IP theft :(

[@MakerViking]

@@mrphysics2625 True, that doesn't define the whole community though.

[@hoffybeefe]

3D Printing is pretty fun and definitely additive. I'll see myself out. ;)

[@askolds11]

Best tool for calibration: teaching tech 3d printer calibration He has some good videos for beginners, if you've got the time. You can pretty easily swap nozzles (and you should every few months, they're a consumable!), a 0.4 is pretty good for detailed models, especially if you've got curves, however I print with a 0.6, and for PC sizes I'd recommend that, or even bigger, even if only for prototyping. For bigger nozzles you'll get a little bit more rounded corners, also harder to remove supports (which also happens with bigger layer heights). For retractions (jumping between points without printing), pressure advance is very good, you should research that. I'm unfamiliar with the enders, but the Auto Bed Leveling should have an offset option that you can change mid print, so you can get a good/perfect first layer (very important!). If it isn't there, you should be able to enable it in firmware. Also for a studio environment you should make the printers silent(er), I know some enders have silent boards that you can buy, or you can buy stepper drivers separately, if the board supports it (the drivers should be TMC 2208 or 2209). It might have them for all I know, but it could be in the wrong mode, which I think is changed in firmware. I don't print with PLA, but direct drive makes a huge difference in "blobs" and "strings" with PETG, should be pretty major for other filaments too. PLA prints very well with maximum cooling (however that might come with reduced layer bonding strength), that should help especially with overhangs.

[@fatlessauto3]

I HAD NO IDEA NOZZLES ARE A CONSUMABLE THANK YOU

[@Dirkxke]

Teaching Tech is my go to source for info. Before I bought my Ender 3 pro, after I bought it, when doing upgrades, when changing the motherboard to a 32 bit version, when adding a bl touch, when doing a 0 to complete calibration. All info came from him!

[@phimuskapsi]

Having gotten into this hobby about 6 months ago, I understand the addiction. Started with a stock Ender 3 Pro, and now I have more mods than I should (probably), but I love it all. Nothing like 'growing' your own stuff. You guys really need to get the Silent Motherboard, it gets rid of that motor noise entirely.

[@nwallace]

Lulzbot was always overpriced and is pretty outdated at this point. If you want to look at a plug and play mostly automated printer for a decent price, look at a Prusa MK3S.

[@PabzRoz]

Prusa MK3S is fire. I really wanted one but settled on an ender 3 pro because well the price. got one during microcenters promotion for only $99.99. So with the savings it only made sense I'de put another $200 of upgrades into it😂 addiction.

[@ge2719]

i cant believe they still try to sell that thing for 3 grand though, with how much better competition there is, at a fraction of the price. crazy. its not even like its more of a finished professional product either. it seems to require as much tinkering as the ender.

[@l33tsauce79]

@@ge2719 its not 3 grand though? its like 700 for you to build yourself so you can understand how to fix it when and if it breaks. if you arent willing to do that then this hobby may not be for you. my ender vs prusa is a no brainer on every front. Also for about 3k you can get their newest prusa big boi 5 extruder blah blah fancy printer so again idk where you are getting 3k from...

[@daltonmckee4788]

Get a Prusa to make a Voron 😏

[@ark_knight]

I am surprised how he has not got a Prusa. They make some of the top notch Printers. Basically made 3d printing a reality.

[@DIllybarification]

Just wait until Jay discovers the speed printing community and he specs out his own voron build to take them on. It'll be glorious.

[@galoki5654]

can't wait to see how he liquid cools it ;)

[@BennyVermeulen]

Voron! w00pw00p!

[@MatthewMiller315]

@@BennyVermeulen get him a V0.1 supercharged

[@jamieswain4888]

Tbf that ender 5 plus should have the capability to be fairly competitive

[@whatif8741]

@@jamieswain4888 I see alot of people turn ender 5s into either a voron,hevort, or vzbot adaptation

[@tomdgardner]

Creality is a reputable brand for FDMs; I use the Ender 3-V2 (with mods). I'm sure plenty have commented already, but here are some inexpensive/straightforward modifications you can do that really improve prints and reliability once you feel ready: - Dual gear metal extruder (reduces extrusion skips, more reliable and consistent feed) - Silicon Bed springs (once calibrated, it will never need adjusting) - Capricorn PTFE tubing (longer-lasting, less likely to clog) -Filament Runout sensor (you may already have it? It does require a simple software update) -PEI Flexplate (Really good for removing prints, good adhesion too. Added bonus, the bottom layer can be super smooth)

[@yannickgilbert668]

I would recommend that with every filament you get print a "temp tower" a "retraction tower" , then you print a "swatch" that will have tons of little test on them, best temps etc... and that you can keep on record for color and transparency. so next time you want to do a print you will have the swatches to color match and test.

[@EagleFPV43]

Much better choice jay! Another one i reccomend you try is the prusa mk3s. Also cura is the go to slicer and fusion 360 for cad

[@AllAbout3D]

As a 3D printing and pc building enthusiast I am thrilled to see you join the 3d community. If you really want to take this printer to its limits, make sure to install new firmware on it besides just installing the mods. It makes a world of difference and enables both faster and better quality printing at the same time because it unlocks higher accelerations and advanced features like linear advance and input shaping. Your modding project were already top notch, but I'm sure that with the help of your new printers you will take them to a whole other level. Keep it up

[@draskuul]

Yep, I got an Ender 3 a few years ago, and I've probably put 3x that price into upgrades...direct drive extruder among them. Worth it.

[@KazPeRinzky]

Did the DD extruder eliminate printing errors where the filament skips on the extruder cog? i have been thinking about getting a DD extruder but just want to scout "the road ahead". at the moment i am having some issues mid print where the filament starts skipping from the cog that pushed it into the nozzle and filament stops flowing through ruining a good few hours into the print.

[@draskuul]

@@KazPeRinzky I'd say the actual cog mechanism on the MicroSwiss DD kit is definitely an improvement over stock (or even the all-metal stock upgrades). I haven't had any issues with it so far. The only upgrade I do have an issue with is a dual-Z-axis upgrade, which has...something...going on with it.

[@epicshadowkrazee]

It's interesting to watch someone I look up to as an expert in one area, come into another field as a noob and have such similar experiences to my own in the beginning. Welcome to an even deeper and more nuanced rabbit hole than PCs, Jay! Happy printing!

[@Ruby_2496]

Love watching you guys get into 3D printing. Bought my first ender 2 years ago and iv'e got and three printers now. Actually had never heard of Lulzbot before.

[@HerbertHWong]

You should check out Prusa Mk3S+. They made their own filament. Using their software and filament pretty much guarantee you a successful print. Can’t wait for their XL to become available the end of this year.

[@victakato]

I would give Prusa Slic3r a try as an alternative to Cura. I myself prefer Super Slic3r but that has too many options and would recommend for more experienced users.

[@mcswaggly1718]

I do a lot of 3d printing for cosplay so I know a bit about getting a pla print ready for paint. Start by figuring out your optimal settings (layer height, movement speed, retraction speed, temps) so you can get consistent, quality prints. Once you get a good print the steps I follow are; sand, prime, sand, polish, prime, paint.

[@CornFlakesPC]

What I can recommend to get even more out of your printer especially those like Ender 3s and 5s is to update the firmware (Marlin). Also to setup a monitoring software like Octoprint or Repetier is a good idea so you can send and start prints to the printers without even touching the one of them expect from turning them on

[@alphaadhito]

Since I installed Octoprint on my Ender 3, I've never touch the lcd and button to the point it was very dusty, lol (I only cleaned the bed and rail 😂)

[@P4P5]

Even better is to run them on Klipper and Fluidd/Octo. Personally i cant go back to Marlin.

[@hermannroets1452]

I was about to say the same thing

[@cajda55]

Defo would use the one from Insanity Automation, it has a lot more settings opened.. its just that the stock firmware is dirt crap

[@CornFlakesPC]

@@P4P5 yeah good point. My second ender 3 pro is running Klipper but it was a bit of a hassle to setup, at least for me

[@KarlM777]

Don't feel bad Jay. I've been doing it for just over a year. Started a side business and have 14 to 16 printers. That includes the ones that are down and possibly used for parts.

[@jesseandreasen5318]

Welcome to the rabbit hole Jay, you'll love it! I've got an Ender 5 Plus as well and it's a great machine. About to upgrade extruder to a Bondtech LGX Lite myself, one of many future upgrades.

[@mbr0wn950]

How have you gotten on with the 5 plus? I'm looking to get one at the end of the month, have you had any issue with prints?

[@mini1293blue]

@@mbr0wn950 I have one too, insulate the underside of the bed, it gets cold spots, so large prints can lift in places.

[@techdiyer5290]

So, Just saying, but you could export the printer profiles that were made for the luzbot, and import them into a newer version of cura... then you don't need to tune and you can take advantage of new features. Every printer except for proprietary ones like Stratasys can have g code sliced from any slicing software

[@0o0KING0o0-YT]

I feel you, Jay. I often would see these 3D prints and think to myself "I wish I could do that". I finally bought a Creality Ender 3 V2, and have been tinkering with it since. I've already dumped even more money into upgrades...it does get addicting!

[@cats_are_awesom]

I got the 3 pro and it already has been upgradet with the cr touch and direct drive metal extrouder xD I really recomend the cr touch level for the ender printers

[@FoolOfATuque]

Same printer I have. It’s so quiet too. I’m running noctua cooling fans and the silent stepper drivers are great. I’m very confused why Lulzbot is still selling printers that don’t have silent stepper drivers, but yet cost thousands

[@Qwarzz]

I go Prusa MK2 years back and now it looks nothing like it did when new :)

[@Sweeris]

I got the ender 5+ 2 months ago for my work. There's a lot of upgrades for the ender 5+. I upgraded the bed to magnetic and PEI. I took me about 2 weeks to tune the printer before I could use it for work. I had a lot of problems with bed leveling, bed adhesion and layer adhesion. After most of the problems is solved, the printer has been working very well. It printed 300+ models over 3 weeks running 24/7.

[@alexandermccabe556]

3d printing is awesome its actually easier for me to print complex things than a label from ups 95% of the time

[@trolling3548]

i just got a printer for my bday, 4/12, dude, i'm so freaking addicted. I love it. I got a ender 3, printed one thing and already have added a bl touch, new motherboard, v2 screen, compiled my own firmware .. etc...

[@owenwagner9017]

The rounded corners can come from the nozzle oozing while slowing down at the corner. Can be tuned out with linear/pressure advance. Also get some ipa to clean the bed frequently, that helps bed adhesion quite a bit.

[@cerealport2726]

ipa = India Pale Ale? I generally like to stay in bed the next day if I have a lot of IPA... as for isopropyl alcohol, I haven't tried drinking this, as I slightly value my life.

[@filthmaster9936]

What also helps is getting that direct drive on it to get really sharp corners, like mine can take out your eye lol.

[@Lanka0Kera]

IPA (which he did mention in previous video) + some general bed glue. I've got 2 PLA glues at work, can't tell difference.. Students using the workshop add more glue after each print while I've noted that it works fiiine for 10+ prints or washing the bed with IPA.

[@owenwagner9017]

@@Lanka0Kera I use bed weld even on my textured pei for large abs prints. Makes bed adhesion so much simpler!

[@prdx8543]

Welcome to the 3D printing world. I bet, you'll never get out of it again. It's so addictive, and satifying at the same time. The privilege to materialize anything that we draw, is insane. Jay, if you want to break the support easier, I suggest you look at the support roof setting. I use 2mm roof, with 0.2mm height. Then you can make a less dense support, and about 80% roof density. The quality improved much. 50% should give you a very good quality, but I do a prototype work, and 80% gives me a very smooth surface. After venturing into FDM printer, and if you love action figures, go get a resin printer. It will take some effort to print with resin, but the detail is crazy. I printed something like Tifa Lockhart, and the details blew me away. Her belt, even her hair. I upgraded to a 4K screen LCD.

[@doogle4144]

Start researching into open source firmware for your printers, I've migrated my printers to Klipper and haven't looked back! Marlin is also a very good option as well

[@chwaee]

Get open source firmware that's compatible with OctoPi, and control it with a web page interface.

[@MDealer]

I tried Klipper on Duet Wifi a while ago. It was unable to maintain a stable USB connection. But, it did work sometimes and it was a breeze. I stopped trying at some point.

[@michaelentem]

I found the best way to dial in my flow for each filament is to print a calibration cube with vase mode in Cura and measure the wall thickness with a set of calipers. Adjust the flow rate based on the difference between your nozzle size and the actual thickness of the walls on the print.

[@FrancoCosta02]

I've found out to have the best results with prusa slicer, smoother prints, although all my printers were diy, ultimaker style, corexy (like your ender), and Cartesian (prusa style)... With the lastest updates I think prusa slicer is ahead

[@owenwagner9017]

give superslicer a look! basically a fully unlocked version of prusaslicer

[@FrancoCosta02]

@@owenwagner9017 will do!

[@matthewweinberger7023]

The ender 5 ain't corexy. It's just a square framed cartesian

[@V1N_574]

What firmware your printers are running on?

[@FrancoCosta02]

@@matthewweinberger7023 yeah saw that my bad .....

[@techdiyer5290]

also, for support material, i like to use 15 to 20 % support density because its easier to break away, uses less material, and you need less post processing.

[@theheadone]

Definitely check out Prusa Slicer, it's very intuitive to use and has some nice features like adaptive layer heights which would work nicely for that stitch model. I use it for all of my printers of various makes.

[@boogieman3719]

I recently switched to SuperSlicer from PrusaSlicer. It's a fork of PrusaSlicer with a few improvements/enhancements. They're both good, but I think SuperSlicer is a little better

[@Nimble_Bitz]

Agreed on Prusa I've had issues with Cura, plus Prusa pause function for changing filement for multicolor prints is awesome.

[@alexzan3564]

I won’t go back to Cura.

[@kuvos13]

Creality Slicer is amazing tho. Just choose advanced mode and you have a ton of good settings to tune with.

[@lir3832]

This is amazing. I love seeing you expand your nerdy horizons. I got into the hobby a little over a year ago and haven't looked back since.

[@oliversmeeton]

The bulging corners can be prevented by tuning linear advance. Also the ender has newer stepper drivers so should produce better prints and be quieter.

[@MrHeHim]

Should note, partially (arguably, mostly) caused by the spring load in the bowden tube. But yes! dead on. It's crazy to think that mechanically the original 3D printers from the 80's mostly work the same 😅 the huge jump has been in software, and arguably the jump to 32-bit boards (i still have a Replicator Dual w/wood frame that i got around 2012-13, prints just as good as a Prusa)

[@oliversmeeton]

@@MrHeHim yeah at the end of the day a FDM 3d printer is basically still just a robotic hot glue gun but they have definitely been improvements over the years, expecially to the lower end market.

[@idc2120]

I struggled with bed levelling for months on my Ender 3. I didn't have auto bed levelling. It wasn't until I learnt to do it properly and stopped using the paper method that I solved every issue I had. The method I use instead is, preheat bed and extruder and then homing the printer (setting it's height to 0.0), then using the menu set the height to 0.3. I then use a feeler gauge, a strip of metal that is exactly 0.3mm thick, and adjust the levelling screws in each corner until the nozzle is just touching it (should only feel slight resistance). I do this several times in each corner and in the middle, ensuring they are all the same amount of resistance. Its also super important that you preheat the bed and extruder to your intended print temperature as the metal will warp and expand slightly. (Obviously, no filament in the extruder at this point). Relevel the bed every time you move the printer, or after 2-3 prints or if there is a change in print temp. The reason this works is because when you start printing, you don't start printing at 0. It starts at whatever your initial layer height is. By using the paper, you are adding an offset from the start. Paper varies in thickness and it's not accurate. The characteristics of each bed may be different too due to manufacturing. Having a glass bed can help also. If issues with bed adhesion persists after having a level bed, it'll be because of a number of other issues. It could be your nozzle or bed temperatures ( too high or not high enough for your filament) or ambient room temp fluctuations causing the print to cool unevenly (this causes warping, usually in the corners) or the print surface itself. Adding a skirt to the print can help as well as a rough surface to print on. If using a glass bed, I like to use painter's/masking tape.

[@chris_hertford]

I hope the 3d printing sparks more custom pc building content! I love that stuff and it's great original content too!

[@Lanka0Kera]

Now all Jay needs is laser cutter to make his own acrylic side panels.. Frame out of stock steel/aluminium profile with 3d printed end caps. :p

[@MD_Builds]

The corner bulging isnt because of the bed, theres better flow reduction settings in modern cura. It reduces flow rate at sharp corners and when it comes to the end of a layer to limit those bulges and end of layer lines.

[@Sizukun1]

I wouldn't say you're 10 years late; even the guys at LTT say the last 10 years of printers has been expensive and generally difficult to setup and keep running properly.

[@jamesbowman5062]

Me too bro, started with one last Christmas. I ordered my fourth one this week. I also have a desktop full of calibration cubes lol. Keep ‘em coming!

[@hey_how_are_ya]

I recommend using 10-15% infill on your prints, unless you need it to withstand a really heavy load

[@rentaspoon219]

Also little tip, try printing at 190 and work up every 5c till you get a preferred preference, then down every 2c till you find the right temp for *that* filament. I print PLA at about 192c, I've got some old PLA filament that was good quality at 182c

[@f1hotrod527]

Yeah, you can lose yourself in 3D printing. Sometimes my mind will wander for hours just thinking of stuff to print.

[@Chris_Bro_aka_MR_PLAT1NEM]

I have had 8 printers 7 printing at one time before. Constantly tuning and calibrating. I sold everything about 6 months ago. I went get an ender 3 S1 yesterday. This thing is so good it's just so good. I was printing in about 20 minutes and the very first print was flawless. Like almost zero effort. I highly recommend the ender 3 S1. Once they have a larger version I'm getting that also. It's just the most finished printer I've ever owned.

[@capt_p_shivers698]

Try using tree supports in cura on Stitch. Also, a couple light coats of filler primer and sanding before painting will help hide the layers

[@SyntheticFuture]

Yep filler primer and sanding. It always annoys me when people think you can just print the perfect finish. Maybe on some models you get away with it but you can save a lot of time and material by using fillers and sanding it to a smooth finish.

[@mariueg]

Was gonna write thise myself. Love tree supports as they are way easier to remove and faster to print

[@fenrir7969]

Ender 3 v2 owner here, totally agree with your assessment of the Ender 5 not holding your hand but in the end if you stick at it, you'll get much better results. Also, that 0.4 nozzle can be changed out anytime you need. If you want more speed less detail, try a 0.6 or you want more detail you can go 0.3 or even lower. FYI, Creality factory firmware is crap, install something else or even compile your own. I Use Jyers UI on mine as that is specific to my printer. Hopefully you'll do more 3D printing stuff as I'd enjoy watching your journey with the technology.

[@D.K81]

Being a car guy also, I used feeler gauges instead of paper to level the bed. I've since upgraded my Ender 3 with a BL touch. I highly advise that upgrade.

[@tukuiPat]

for my filament printer I not long ago got a set of feeler gauges because paper was starting to become more and more inaccurate for me that when I wanted to print something in filament it took twice as long just making sure it'll stick from a properly leveled bed.

[@jayyendole]

there ender 5 has a auto bed level already

[@vehasmaa]

Welcome to club. Recently replaced my DIY printer with factory made. Ans now im planning to build Prusa Mini+ clone next. Very addictive hobby this 3d-printing and its related things.

[@clicketyclack100]

As an avid Ender 5 Pro user, I definitely recommend printing the "super strut" bed supports.

[@geronimo5537]

Great advice I was looking into getting the ender 5. Seems it needs most of the key components replaced.

[@clicketyclack100]

@@geronimo5537 Stepping up to the 5 Pro addresses many of them. It adds upgraded, silent stepper drivers, all metal extruder, and Capricorn tubing. All you really need from there is the superstruts, and a Fula-Flex steel print bed.

[@geronimo5537]

@@clicketyclack100 could you link to the proper superstruts 3d model? I definitely appreciate your input. Some of the upgrades are quite pricey.

[@LostJasonR]

Jay, just a little tip from Channels I follow, many people say that using resin (that you would use for resin 3D printing) will help smoothen out the fdm printer lines sir.

[@D1craigRob]

This almost completely goes over my head but I’ve a feeling printing anything for your computer should be less than 10% as complicated as that stitch thing.

[@ge2719]

yeah thats a pretty serious early print to jump into.

[@stevewest5397]

I would recommend installing any/all upgrades right away, and then tuning the printer. If you wait, you'll spend all kinds of time tuning it, then have to do alot of it again when you upgrade. When I got my Ender 3 v2 I immediately changed out the bed springs, installed an all metal extruder, and got a better bowden tube. Then I installed the Jyers UI firmware with a 5x5 mesh bed levelling. Then I tuned the printer. The only changes since then have been a new spring steel bed, put the filament spool off to the left side, and mount a Samsung Galaxy phone to the front to run OctoPrint from the phone. Only the bed change required more tuning, which was just relevelling the bed, something you have to do periodically anyway.

[@karon_pcmr]

Hi Jay, just a quick note for Creality Ender printers: The stepper motors they use have a resolution of 0.04mm, meaning that especially your Layer height should always be a multiple of 0.04. You said your layer height is 0.25 which is 0.01 too high, which can introduce layer inconsistencies when printing bigger stuff. You should set it to 0.24 because of that^^

[@arkatub]

Not the stepper motor's resolution, the vertical screw's thread pitch, 8mm per turn or 360 rotation, but yeah, sticking to .04 gets you full or half turns of the screw per layer, which is a good thing.

[@reru_personal]

Hey, IDK if someone else commented this (or if you learn about it later in the video, only at 9:20 ATM) but I learned that if you use tree supports it is a lot easier to remove off of the model and takes a lot less filament.

[@JoeKeaveney]

I would recommend upgrading the mainboard for the Ender 5. The one you have has A4988 drivers (because the printer is loud in movement in the X and Y axis). The newer Creality mainboards use TMC drivers which are MUCH quieter. There are also other mainboards like the SKR Mini and others that also have TMC drivers.

[@paulsimonguy]

I would say that for both printers.

[@deathcube2006]

For the 5 plus id say the skr mini e3 v3 or skr 2. The skr 2 has 5 tmc2209 drivers so you can use g34 for z leveling

[@KilandorMyntel]

When Nick turned and gave Jay that look in the background when talking about nozzle size, I freaking lost it.

[@GuusKlaas]

There's also settings like extrusion width (as ratio to nozzle) in slicers, on a 0.4 nozzle I often prefer to use a 0.42mm extrusion width, just so the layers are more 'pancaked' rather than round. Depending on layer heigth you can get some real smooth sides that way. The thing with layer heigth and support (especially in Cura -- I moved to SuperSlicer for the most part, just tree support in cura in some cases can't be matched) is that there's also Z-offset in support, where it's often a part of the layer heigth. If I do real thin layers, I often add another layer extra between the print itself and support, because it'd be so thin it'd be hard to remove otherwise. On stupid stuff like a 0.05mm layer heighth (with a yolo 0.25mm nozzle possibly) I even triple it so the airgap between support and print is 0.15mm :D. For the rest... especially when printing PLA, cooling is all about drooping. On my printer I use EVA as carriage/extruder frame, (LGX + nowadays a Rapido HF hotend), and added a second cooling fan to just cool PLA faster. Especially when printing fast :D

[@mikejurisic]

@15:45 re weirdness in the 1st layer, usually has more to do with oils and contaminants, clean with ISO and let dry every few prints and try not touching the bed with fingers in between.

[@apollyon7573]

I am so excited for you guys with the 3d printing rabbit hole that you've just jumped head first into.

[@ShadVonHass]

Loving the 3D printing content. I've just started being interested again after last messing with it 6 years ago. I hope to see some great functional prints from the channel soon!

[@sammy_1_1]

If you want to get into laser engraving, creality offers a kit that lets you turn your printer into a laser engraver... pretty cool!

[@Townshed55]

My Ender 3 comes today and I'm looking forward to getting started in this hobby. I'm glad you're late to this because I am too!

[@nutronik9]

I look forward to seeing Jay start looking into printing high temp materials and going that rabbit hole.

[@OseanBigshot444]

(10:53) Jay: "It does pop in and out like a penis!" Nick: "...it's just a little electromagnet dude." ...OH! So like an electromagnet penis...?

[@Brunoku]

I can't wait to see the insane Core XY printer that you eventually build, or have built for you... I wanna see the 3d printer version of Skunkworkz

[@crotchrocket81]

Voron in his future

[@DBRONCOSfan]

19:00, freeze level hairspray!! Works fantastically.

[@gavinshams4631]

I use this printer personally, absolutely love it

[@jdhaggard562]

So much to do with the e5+. With some simple upgrading and tuning it gets awesome. Also e5+ can only do overhangs well on one side. Because the fan gets blocked on the other sides. Dual cooling fan upgrade with upgraded duct work that you can print solves that. Also, turn off energy saving mode. It turns the need off and prints release early sometimes.

[@Bertrp]

Just wait till he gets into resin. The detail is insane. Love having both options. Bigger stuff from fdm and detail in resin

[@zan_drox]

Came looking for a "time for an SLA" comment

[@NewAgeDIY]

That’s next month I believe! Resin printers a fantastic bargain. They are, as you know provided a much better print over others methods.

[@ugotznuked]

Part cooling fan upgrades are highly recommended on the Ender series- the default "blow air in the general direction of the nozzle" isn't great and can be greatly improved with a 1hr print. I'd start with something like Thing 3855884 or one of it's remixes, as it's a simple part replacement and quick to print.

[@Draxl2309]

I'd love to see Jay build a Voron v2.4r2 or Trident. Or even converting the Ender 5 Plus to Mercury One would be awesome.

[@My03corvette]

The printers you are using are good for printing parts and quick prototyping. If you're going to do models like Stitch you should get a resin printer. But you have two very good printers honestly. I used the Lulzbot in college and they run like champs. That Ender is another very good printer, especially for what you'll be doing.

[@RatchetBuildz]

I want to say thank you forgetting into this world. Goes along with my computer building , 3d molding and printing. Love this content.

[@ryanmaffesoli]

Glad to see you opted to switch to the ender! Knowing that you're a tinkerer it'll make for a lot more project ideas/content. Having a ender3v2 myself I may be a bit biased :) Also, for the supports, try tree supports, they save on plastic and are super easy to remove.

[@isaackvasager9957]

Jay is 10 years late to this hobby, but I'm glad he finally found his way! I've been printing for many years already and still love it. I now have kids old enough to start participating as well and they love it too.

[@StunnerAlpha]

10 years late? Who says? 3D printing has been around since the 70s and conceptualized before that. So I think it’s foolish to say that if you didn’t get in during the 3d printing hype train of 2012 you’re late.

[@isaackvasager9957]

@@StunnerAlpha ok, dude...calm down. I said "hobby". There was no mainstream 3d printing hobby in the 70's. I'm well aware that 3d printing has been around since the 70's in the manufacturing space. Thanks for the comment though. (insert eyeroll)

[@Matt3DMaker]

@@StunnerAlpha it was actually early/mid 80s, nothing commercial until late 80s, and the RepRap project didn't start until the early 2000's - which is why hobby/desktop printers became available

[@Steelsky]

Instead of sanding or filing you might use acetone fumes to make the outer most layer melt and flow together to make a smooth surface. Given your experience on cars and paint I assume you know hot to avoid inhaling the fumes.

[@andreaskvisler]

Jay you are not late you have joined at the right time. Now it is easier than ever to use a 3Dprinter

[@jonjames4281]

I fell down this rabbit hole a few weeks back too. I bought a creality cr 10 smart for my first printer. probably not the smartest thing but it's been going good considering. I have done a few upgrades, necessary improvements. It's like never ending, cramming for finals, taking all that info and forming a course of action that makes cense to me. I have no help, don't know anyone who does 3d printing. Everything I've learned comes from the web, youtube vids, blogs, forums, etc. I'm working my way through different filaments and how to use them now while still learning how to use the printers. I'm looking for used cr 5 now, not that it can print better, I can enclose it easier for high temp stuff. I've gotten pretty far and still feel I might know 3% of what I need to. I guess if it were easy everybody would be doing it.

[@TheDutchmanModifies]

The ender 5 doesn't not have bulging corners on the Chep cube because it's got a stationary bed, motion system type is irrelevant there actually. It's because the ender 5 apparently has a more precise linear advance value set as stock from the factory.

[@matthewwain9958]

Oh and...Vision Miner Nano Adhesive if you get adhesion issues. (Depending what you print... PETG 80/70 for the bed, and PLA if it warps drop the temp lower on the bed.). Good luck.

[@andiders]

You can get rid of visible layers on your 3D-print with acetone vapor. The setup is pretty easy. Full a glass with some acetone, put a tissue in the acetone to help it vaporize better, place a fan next to the glass of acetone that blows directly at the 3D-printed object, and place a container of the whole thing to keep the acetone vapor somewhat contained. Just 10-15 minutes and your 3D-printed object will smooth out.

[@3DJLab]

Btw.. that filament does take alot of moisture from air, if its left few days in room without drying the prints will come bad every time. Make shure its dried, buy your self good filament dryer.

[@dhtdht7191]

Ender stepper motors move in .04 steps. So try to keep your laters divisible by .04. This will help a lot.

[@Pr0toc01]

If you want to save yourself a TON of sanding, you might want to look into using Resin, UV light, and an airbrush for smoothing prints. You would spray the resin on using an airbrush. the surface tension should hold the liquid in the edges of the layers. Hit that with a UV light to harden it. Of course please use PPE. Respirator, gloves, long sleeves, safety goggles etc etc etc. This will save you TONS of time smoothing prints.

[@playmaka2007]

It's fun watching you experience this journey. Keep your eye on the new Anker Make 3d printer.

[@SandBarioth]

If you wanna do/have more printers, try out the PRUSA ones. At work we use the mini one and for the cost of it I think it does a really nice job.

[@Xyz-ij6rh]

Over the Years i learned that if you are making parts that are more Industrial Design language and not that Arts figures you can rlly go high on Nozzle size as long as you work with linewith toleranzes and there are enough lanes per layer you dont lose precision but you gain a lot in Speed and its overall less flaws due to less ways the printer has to make and you can work with higher temps cause you have more overlap on overhangs if you print pc parts i would recommend to try a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle than you dont lose as much time if you crank up wall thickness and you gain room to make it beautyfull :D ive build a Matx case this week i went with rlly ruff print a lot of epoxy

[@BLACKSYNTH]

You can adjust the z gap in Cura between the support and model, the rough drooping overhangs under the chin is due to improper support settings / poor cooling from the part cooling fan, you can 3d print a new better fan shroud to focus the air flow. Blower fans are best. been 3d printing for 6 years, I think you need to slow down a little bit and learn more of why print artefacts happen. Tree supports are pretty good.

[@kerrodframe9681]

I have an Ender 5 Plus myself and I love it! I haven't modified mine much but I highly recommend installing the silent board that has better drivers. The printer is soooo quiet now minus the loud ass PSU fan. I also recommend getting a metal extruder; the plastic one is crap 👍 Have fun with your new hobby! I look forward to more 3D printing videos! 🤙

[@rylanwintle7610]

The roughness under supports is totally normal. I think your setting your expectations way to high because that’s about as good as it gets.

[@OddlyIncredible]

I finally got my 3D printer operational about 4 months now, and I've printed _so many_ Benchies and calibration cubes. _SO many._ I literally have a _box_ full of calibration prints. Upside is that I now have working configs for PLA, PETG, and TPU, and I'm producing usable prints. That said, I opened filament spool #7 yesterday - you're gonna blow through an insane amount of filament until you get both the calibration and your initial list of things to print done. Also, needle-nose pliers are your friend when it comes to ripping off the supports. Get three pairs: one straight, one with a 45-degree curve, and one with a 90-degree curve. BTW, once you get PLA down, based on what you said your intentions are for 3D printing, I'd recommend jumping to immediately to PETG. It's a tougher, touchier, more temperamental material to work with but it's also a more durable material, and if you plan to make pooterparts the added durability will be useful.

[@mephistopheles3902]

Hi Jay, little tip from me: you should think about controlling your printers via Octoprint. It makes the management of your printers much easier and more secure. I upgraded my Ender 5 to Octoprint with a Raspberry Pi 4 last year. And I would never work without it again.

[@spinner4life2]

While my creality experience is limited to the ender 3 I will caution that with my ender the leads from the power supply to the board where nothing short of a fire hazard, raw twisted wire straight into screw posts. Machine ran well for some time before those screw posts lost their grip causing some particularly nasty issues. If I were to go with creality again (other than that one issue it was a machine that performed very well) I'd definitely double check the wiring and install ferrules where necessary

[@istayhighi1540]

I just got the same one a few weeks ago. Great printer. Currently building the iron man helmet. Decided to try out pla mixed with carbon fiber and its printing very well. Only thing I recommend is the silent board upgrade.

[@Floreum]

If you're gonna print intricate figures, or anything that needs detail, You should consider getting a resin printer. There are cheap options out there, like the Elegoo Mars or Saturn, that are about $200-$500. You'll need a well ventilated room for the fumes.

[@iownyounoobs]

If he hasn't already went through the teaching techs calibration steps he NEEDS to, it's extremely helpful when setting a printer up!

[@roadtrip1098]

You can change nozzles all the way down to .1 or even smaller, then there's nozzle types like stainless or ruby that don't wear out as quick as brass.

[@futurepsyborg4332]

I actually picked up the exact same printer, not working 100%, at my local GoodWill for 100$. Threw some new thermisters and a new motherboard in and got it working at its prime. still in the same stages you are in this vid with getting it tuned. upgraded to a PEI sheet for the print bed and have not had any bed sticking problems since. The glass is nice for how flat it is, but with the 16 point bed level, I figured it couldnt be that bad to run without it.

[@PhilipPetkov]

Jay , you don't need the rebranded cura software. If the official cura software has a profile for the printer you will have a good experience with it. I have a CR10 v2 at work for large prints and a personal Ender 3v2 and I use Cura because it's easiet than most other software solutions and work great for creality machines in my experience.

[@Rico0chet]

honestly all of your complaints/frustrations on your printer is why I got myself a Priusa - yeah its not as expensive as your Lulz and doesnt print massive parts like the Lulz but I rarely rarely get ruined parts. Ive been using it to print with Carbon Fiber PC and Nylon X with a Ruby nozzle. I started out with a Da Vinci 1.0 - modded to a Franken-vinci with a Mega board. thinking about tearing it apart and making a CNC machine out of it. good content non the less