“I HAVE MADE FIRE “🔥 FINAL STEPS ON THE E4OD GUTS !

[@michaelluft2732]

I have saved every video for future reference

[@vincentizzo8408]

Hi, I love Tom Hanks. Your videos are helping me a lot to make my fire. Thanks so much.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Very welcome

[@michaelluft2732]

I am so thrilled with all of the information you have shared and for your input in the comments you sent I had known nothing about rebuilding a transmission I use to work in garages many years ago bit just as a general mechanic I am so great full for you and your knowledge. Thank you so very much

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thanks for watching your really studying up on the E4OD/4R100. Appreciate All the support!

[@Ryevan91-dk6bn]

I'm rebuilding an early E4OD (91' or 92') gasoline application for a 1991 E350 Club Wagon. I have a rebuild kit with all new seals and gaskets, new clutch packs (steel & friction plates), a rebuilt solenoid, and new bushings, thrust washers and needle bearings, etc. I also have the Superior Shift kit, which I believe has some upgrades to the pump and accumulator valve body. I have watched your video where you explain some of the upgrades Ford made to the E4OD/4R100 over the years and how to implement some of those improvements when doing a rebuild. I recently purchased a 97' diesel E4OD core hoping to farm some of the better parts for my 91' - 92' gasoline rebuild.But I have a few questions. 1.) If using the Superior Shift kit, would you still recommend removing a spring in the reverse engagement control valve body to help bring on reverse faster? 2.) Is there any way to use the pump from the 97' diesel unit in a gasoline application? I don't know if the TC was a triple disk or not to go with a pulse width modulating pump 3.) Can I swap in the 97' overdrive ring gear assembly as long as I get the cup plug for the output shaft? or can I swap the output shaft from the 97' diesel as well? 4.) Can I swap in the improved center support assembly with overdrive pistons from the 97' unit? 5.) Can I swap in the forward drum from the 97'? 6.) When adding a clutch to the 2nd gear drum, using the thick steel plate from the forward drum, what is the snap ring I need to get the correct clearance? I think you say it's a GM part. I assume I can use the extra thick steel plate to put the forward drum back together? Or do I need to make adjustments to that clutch pack as well? 7.) I thought all the planetary gear carriers in late diesel E4ODs were steel. It appears the unit I bought only has one steel carrier and two aluminum ones. 8.) Recommendations for a torque converter? Billet?

[@marshallsanders5672]

Yeah that 91-92 unit definitely needs upgraded parts. 1) Yes remove the engagement control valve spring on any application. 2) The pump on the 97 diesel will work fine in your early unit as long as its NOT A PWM STYLE LOCK-UP SYSTEM and is actually preferable because its an upgraded style. As far as the Hard Parts go just about every part in the 97 unit will go into your early unit O/D section, Center support, Planetary's , Drums etc. You just have to pay close attention and make sure your endplays are perfect (O/D section) and (REAR section) when you assemble it. I show this in one of my videos in detail because i had a problem with the lightning transmission endplay and had to correct it. You can just use the diesel DIRECT drum and get 5 clutches which is upgraded from your 4 clutch GAS direct drum. You can use the 97' Forward drum as well Make sure your 2nd clutch clearance is correct as well and I also show this in one of my videos on how to check it. The only thing that can't be swapped over is your valvebody's, separator plate, and case they must all stay together. As far as the superior shift kit goes I have heard of a lot of problems out there with some of the stuff they put in there shift kit.(removing some of the low reverse return springs) (adding Cup-Plug in the low-reverse case passage) (drilling a lot of orifice holes bigger in the pump) Some good some bad. Depending on your intended use of the transmission i would recommend just putting in the Trango "Tugger" kit but not sure what superior kit you have and what all there doing to the trans? The mid year diesels did have Aluminum front carriers and I would recommend the steel 6 pinion there and you should be fine with the aluminum 4 pinion Rear Carrier unless your doing really H/D towing with this thing. Transtar sells a thinner pressure plate now for the direct drum instead of using the forward plate to get an extra clutch in the direct drum if necessary. It is a bit of a pain getting the direct drum clearance right without interference issues on the diesel direct clutch stack-up. I would think you would be fine just using the diesel direct drum and having 5 Direct clutches in most H/D applications. A billet Torque Converter is always a good upgrade over stock And as with any rebuild make sure all the parts your swapping are in very good or like new condition and just pay extra close attention to detail when swapping in different parts.

[@Ryevan91-dk6bn]

@@marshallsanders5672 Thank you!!! I tried rebuilding the 91’ unit that came in the van I bought with no success last winter. I definitely used that shift kit you described-swapping springs in the accumulator valve, new boost valve and spring in the pump, drilled out drain back passages, drilled the 1/16 hole in that area near the boost valve in the pump and removed low reverse return springs. I’ll try to send you a photo so you know exactly which one it was. Someone gave me a 92’ gasoline E4OD for free, so I’m thinking I’ll just start over on that unit, upgrading it as you suggest. I’m not planning on towing really at all, but I will rebuild the 351w (new intake, heads, cam, flat top pistons, etc) so I want the transmission to be able to handle the increase in power, but I also just want a super reliable unit probably more than anything. I have watched all your E4OD videos, especially the “Loading the guts” one where you had endplay clearance issues and ground the center support like 20/1000s. Feel free to follow along @ryevan91 to see how bad a butcher everything 😂 But seriously, thank you for the info

[@dieda-unterwegs6253]

I love your videos Marshall, they are helping so much. One question. I had to take the plug out of the output shaft (minute 28:06) as it had a crack. Now i dont get a new one. That one i ordered has a bigger diameter. I think it is for the older shaft with pilot bearing if you change to the newer version. But i already had the newer version. I can not find anywhere the partnumber or where i can order it. Do you know if it is available? Outer diameter is 0,4. Thank you so much for helping

[@marshallsanders5672]

Thanks for the comments ! From your description you just need the correct Output shaft "CUP PLUG" NOT a "BUSHING". If so "WHATEVER IT TAKES" transmission parts show it as part # A36484E. Give them a call and ask for this part #. Hope this helps

[@dieda-unterwegs6253]

@@marshallsanders5672 thanks for the answer. Unfortunately that's the part with the bigger diameter. I need not the part to convert from bushing to cup plug. I need just the OE typ cup plug which is smaller in diameter

[@connersawyer6743]

what kit did you buy, also can you post the teardown video on your channel?

[@CoreyLangworthy-xc8lh]

Do all e4od's have that snap ring by the center support i can't find any video with it there but this one were you talk about it. If that makes sense.

[@marshallsanders5672]

No E4OD’s come from the factory with that snap ring. From the factory the aluminum center support rides right on the aluminum case which causes wear on both the center support and case which in turn causes the center support to flex back and forth when clutches are applied. Sonnax makes a steel snap ring that rides right on the case and a few aftermarket companies machine .052 off the back of the center support so the snap ring will fit in there between the center support and case. A lot of companies sell it as a kit machined center support and snap ring. It’s not always necessary to do this but it’s a judgement call on how hammered the case and center support is and always a good upgrade if it’s going to be a super heavy duty build. Hope that clears it up!

[@timwagerer6111]

I noticed that your one piece bushing for the output shaft has 1 grove back and 3 groves going front and the one I have in the case from teardown has 3 front and no grove to the back. Should I upgrade it to the 3 front 1 back?

[@marshallsanders5672]

I believe it’s just updated with the one groove towards the back to help lube the back park paw thrust washer/4R100 bearing. I’ve never seen either be a problem with or without the groove. With no groove a little oil still gets by the bushing and lubes toward the rear if that makes sense. It’s a judgement call I’ve always replaced that with the 1 piece bushing with one groove towards the rear. That bushing is very important in keep the fluid in the output shaft to distribute lube oil the the proper places in the geartrain so I always change it. Good Question thanks for the comments!

[@connersawyer6743]

where is the video before this one?

[@marshallsanders5672]

If you click on the purple icon in one of my videos all of them come up, The teardown video is the one with the F-250 pic. Literally my first ever You-Tube video so its not the best but it does get the point across