I Installed The Cheapest Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner On Amazon In ONE DAY

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[@josephkirkland3152]

What is a typical price for an install like this?

[@diyhvacguy]

I have them a great deal on this install so I could make this video and it was $3000 equipment and labor. Other companies had quoted him $5000 If you feel confident doing this yourself, the equipment was about $800! Let me know if you have any other questions!

[@josephkirkland3152]

One more question: I thought I saw in a previous video you gave tips on how to find an independent HVAC contractor. Could you link the video or make another with any updated info you can think of?

[@garysilver718]

Great job. Really like watching your videos. I worked in the vending machine business for 58 yrs. Changed jobs 4 times and never missed a paycheck. Took a corespondent course in refrigeration and made a good living.

[@TFB795DSB]

Depends on who you hire and what type of quality you want.

[@josecornell293]

@@diyhvacguygreat upside. I been doing HVAC since 18 for my dads company. Now 26 getting ready to test for my contractors license. Started in residential and commercial installation. Did almost 2 years refrigeration and large commercial at a prison. Moved into industrial last few years. it’s crazy how much people pay for simple work.

[@bgib23451]

Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) kzbin.infoUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.

[@FishingWithHoang]

I bought the 24000btu OMO brand on Amazon. Paid around $1300 but now is $999. Never installed A/C before and never ran 220v before, but had it done by myself total of around 5-6 hours. Most of the time was trying to find where to mount the units and reading directions. They say you can install without pulling vacuum, but I pulled vacuum anyways to check for leaks and to make sure the lines are clear. Line set was installed with Nylog Blue. 1 year later through winter, freeze and now summer, it still runs like a champ! Really quiet too..

[@wokewokerman5280]

...those cheap units are all over the world in the millions....they do work

[@freecheese4143]

Vacuum isn't for leak check. It's to remove atmosphere. A N2 pressure test is best for that.

[@josephwhitaker9365]

You're a true pro for pulling the vacuum.

[@freecheese4143]

You will find out soon enough. Then recheck the Pro comment later...after leaking.

[@vroor32]

​@@wokewokerman5280😂 ikr? Millions and millions of people outside of good ol' U.S of A use them every day.... Yet if it's not made in 'Murica, it must be junk 😂😂

[@mattp4079]

Homeowner quoted $5000 to install an $800 unit. That price is criminal. Yeah, I know contractors have expenses but that price is robbery. I especially like these DIY videos because theyre upsetting to the supposed tradesman who make a living ripping people off.

[@howlingcommandose]

I agree if parts cost them $1000 ok mark it up 25%, then include the full hourly of the tech and any office warehouse personnel who are paid a living wage. Also be sure to add in the owners pay and retirement cost plus wear on equipment and future replacement cost also remember to percentage in insurance, taxs and utilities plus anything you like to do nice for your employees from time to time. Oh wait another thing you need to factor in a cash reserve during down/hard times so the business can survive and employees are maintained. If you don't understand you have probably never run a business with employees or one that had a future.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

I don't think I can purchase a unit cheaper than $1800 through a distributor. I can't sell any. I charge about $500 to install a mini split. However your insurance company will have a fit if it's not UL approved unit. And I require a waiver..

[@michaelrodgers435]

Diy away then man. I love coming in on those calls. I get to charge an idiot fee. See the above comments to understand to a degree why units cost so much. Not trying to be rude but I don’t think you really understand the gravity of overhead.

[@babakfiroozi]

How about the cost of the company vans and their upkeep? The majority of repairs that are company does on mini splits, is due to bad installation. This guy takes an 8-hour training class and gives it to you in less than an hour. Never mind the year or more the technician spend at school...

[@Utubeisazzho]

How much was that flare joint tool? Lol.

[@chucksmalfus9623]

If you’re using 2 wire Mc you need to red or black tape those whites so they don’t get mistaken as neutrals.

[@426superbee4]

I didn't want to go to Refrigerant School to install the dam thing

[@alishatruman]

I got one of these heat pumps because of your video and I love it! It works beautiful in our little 500 square foot extension. My favorite part was installing the line set through the wall. I have never seen that before. It makes everything look super clean. I am so happy,! Thank you!!!!

[@waynedrummond6583]

You didn't mention the refrigerant pipe lengths which will give optimum performance. The spec sheets would have given a minimum and maximum pipe run.

[@fiehlsport]

The guts of this definitely look to be the same exact ones as the Mr. Cool Advantage line. I think I got my Advantage for $700 a few years ago. My only complaints were that it didn't have good temperature sensing on the indoor unit, so it would swing wildly during the night while we slept. (The temperature sensor in that clear PVC tubing isn't very responsive or accurate to the actual room temp) Swapped it out for a Mitsubishi in 2021 and the room holds temp perfectly now. The Advantage is doing A/C and heat duty in my garage now, can't fault it in there when you just need full heat or full cooling.

[@catdash4390]

I installed a 18000 btu mini split several years ago myself if they're installed correctly, these little units are fantastic, really hurting the HVAC contractors they hate them🤣 and trash talk them unless they are installing them for a rediculus amount if a homeowner has any mechanical skills whatsoever they are very simple and work amazing on heating/cooling and electric bill. Great video!

[@dirtwhisperer658]

My wife and I lived overseas in S Korea for a few years and the Koreans use mini splits exclusively for cooling in summer. We loved them in our korean apartments because you could pick up the remote and set any room to whatever temp. you wanted. They also put out good heat in winter. These things are awesome. I am in the process of installing 3 of them in our house in Florida right now and already have one up and running. I will be turning off the big energy guzzling central air system very soon. It's about time the USA caught on to mini splits!

[@billsmith9249]

Im an IT field engineer and unlicensed electrician for a little over 20 years. Your videos and some other HVAC videos make me want to change professions.

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

@@denverbraughler3948 could you be more specific ?

[@wirenut3020]

@@LemonySnicket-EUCyou can see he has 240 volt bare wires coming into the back of the disconnect with no connector. I’ve no idea why he couldn’t line up a connector and then mount the disconnect, but it’s shoddy.

[@EarlHayward]

@@wirenut3020 Hard to tell, but does not to appear to be in line of site, but distance seem fine… Frankly, I hate when the are more than 4-5 feet away…

[@MrCoolJaybo1]

Nice looking install and cool tools! The only Issue I saw was with the line volt, there should have been a fitting on the end of the mc cable to connect to the back of the disconnect, at minimum a bushing. Also the service disconnect is supposed to be within sight or reach of the unit. you could have came out of the wall to a wp j-box then seal-tite to the next level and place your service disconnect there. Some places only allow 6 feet of whip but it just depends.

[@leonardj1058]

As someone who has been installing these for 12 years he did about 6-7 things that me and my employees would laugh about

[@sh0ckwaveVR6]

This unit is build by Midea, a Chinese white box mini split company, they produce for a dozen of "brand" Like Senville, Mr Cool, Lennox, Goodman, Carrier, and many more

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

They have some top notch equipment too.

[@Turtle-sz7sk]

I had good luck with Midea. Have comfortstar now

[@HobbyOrganist]

Yeah and pretty much all these mini splits LOOK the same no matter what brand they are, like they were all manufactured off one set of drawings and given different paint colors and badges, so you KNOW its like they are ALL made in the same big factory in China.

[@Honestandtruth007]

Lennox, Goodman, Carrier and Many more...... No Way Dude. Your info is Wrong. THESE brands are from different Companies and have their own manufacturing

[@timcat1004]

I installed a mini split 13 years ago. All I did was purge some of the 410 through the evap. It's been working flawless since.

[@extraart1]

What brand is it? Thanks

[@timcat1004]

@@extraart1 Air works.

[@tejonBiker]

Nice install, I always make a quick check with soap+water with low nitrogen (20 to 50 psi) in the flare connections, after that I raise the nitrogen pressure to the desired target (150-200 psi) check again and left the time leak test run.

[@MikelWheeler]

As a certified HVAC instructor here in the northwest I have so many questions. For the most part I like your ambition and your dedication to precision. On the other hand, you really need to learn how to use your tools properly and with the right procedure. Don't get me wrong I'm not here to do any bashing I’m just here to give you more encouragement in the right direction. Nylog is not a good lubricant for flares refrigeration oil is. Good quality tubing bender will help you in the future just in case you kink a fitting and have to start all over. Crescent wrenches are directional using backwards defeats the fulcrum effect actually can cause stripping of the flair nut. When tightening a flare tighten it down snug point to point back it off and then tighten to your final tightness. This will allow you to have a nice solid connection without a torque wrench. Mini splits do not have any type of line dryer for moisture therefore all manufacturers require a triple evacuation which means you put a vacuum on the system to somewhere around 1000 Micron break it with nitrogen then evacuate somewhere 800 break it with nitrogen evacuate down to 400 break with nitrogen and then to your final evacuation. Also most manufacturers require under 400 micron stable. This ensures there is no moisture in the system. My target is always under 120 and of course it’s always a good idea to get as low as possible. This ensures there is no leaks and no moisture. The disconnect you installed has wires going through brick that have no grommet or insulation that is required by code. The wire colors you chose is nonstandard but the endpoints are the same so wire color doesn't matter. Nice choice on the field piece manifold. To properly do a pressure test you need to hook up your suction temperature probe to the line so you have your differential reading accurately. Overall, I love what you're doing I wish I had your knowledge when I started out back in 84. The way I was taught was just do it with no explanation and I was taught wrong until I went to school and learned the correct way to do things. Keep going on what you're doing heating and air conditioning technicians at your caliber are well sought after.

[@AK-oz4ew]

"all manufacturers require a triple evacuation" it is a false statement, here is straight from Pioneer below. Also not a single word about nitrogen, just FYI. " under 400 micron stable" - he had 250 microns if you watched.... Turn the vacuum pump ON to start evacuating the air from the line set and indoor unit circuits. Run the vacuum pump for at least 15 minutes, or until the Low Pressure Gauge reads -76cmHG (-100 kPa or -30 In Hg). (Negative value) Close the Blue (Low Pressure) valve of Manifold Gauge, then turn the vacuum pump OFF. Wait for 5 minutes, then check that there has been no rise in Low Pressure Gauge reading. If there is a rise (Vacuum Loss), refer to the Gas Leak Check section for information on how to check for leaks. If there is no change in vacuum reading, unscrew the cap from the LIQUID Side Service Valve (Fig. 6.2) Insert hexagonal wrench into the service valve (LIQUID Side Valve) and open the valve by turning the wrench in a 1/4 counterclockwise turn.

[@EarlHayward]

You cannot charge or check variable speed units by sub-cooling, so no need to measure low side temp… You also forgot safety, NEC requires the disconnect to be “in sight from”…

[@guruofendtimes819]

I used through the wall Frigidaire and don't fool with any split systems.

[@krisdphillips]

That unit has a minimum lineset distance of 10ft and a maximum of 25ft, I believe, so while it'll work with the precharge, at 3-4ft of lineset it should have some of the R410a pulled out for max efficiency. That said, that's a very clean install and well done.

[@davecooper9170]

I noticed that too if you shorten or lengthen and go beyond the max min recommendations the unit might hunt or not keep up.. Removing or adding R410a is much more hassle than just coiling up the excess that came with it.. It would require weighing and proper evacuation as required..

[@jackromasanta4940]

It should have a 10ft refrigerant line or it will have a short cycle and may damage the compressor motor in the future.

[@TrungNguyen-jf2sg]

This is very true. On Daikin systems the manual says the minimum line set is 15ft. I had a service call for a minisplit not working for a lineset of not more then 10ft. It was going into high limit during the heating season. Also….. dude you gotta use a torque wrench bro. You got get those flare torque out at the correct TQ or NM. Most freaks don’t happen till months later because of over tightening the 1/4” mostly or under tightening the bigger size like 1/2” and up you need like 52tq and that’s some grease and elbow.

[@TrungNguyen-jf2sg]

@@Kevin-mp5of sorry meant lb-ft(pounds-feet) and NM. Not TQ 😂

[@EarlHayward]

@@davecooper9170 Looks cleaner with the shorter length… Also, if you coil the line set it would need to be pretty flat as anything else could cause trouble with the oil as you are essentially creating a trap…

[@csorrows]

This is a video of the best way to cause water damage of your home. DO NOT run your power/refrigerant lines like he did unless you like water damage. ALWAYS add a drip loop.

[@JasonKrasavage]

A tip: you should never use the flare joints that are pre-installed. They are always trash, especially on cheaper units, and will fail on you. Highly recommend you just re-terminate them during install. The tools and materials to do this will save you a lot of money and trouble down the line.

[@GizmoZR2]

YES!!!!!! I learned that the hard way LOL!!!

[@sprockkets]

Not necessarily. I inspect them, and sometimes they are just fine. Even Craig at HVAC Sevice tech channel didn't bother making his own in one of his videos.

[@charlieromeo7663]

@@badinstinctsyoutube7108 I prefer the eccentric flaring tool, just like the one he opted not to use. They don’t just bend the flare, they form the flare and leave a perfect sealing surface.

[@sprockkets]

Just did another mini split yesterday. Used again spin flares. The lineset had a thick lip which looked fine, but still cut just in case. Torqued on the lower end because I use a little nylog. Vacuumed and reached 55 microns, decayed to only 67 microns after 5 min. And yes, I vacuumed for around 1.5 hours because that's how that final vacuum stays low after isolating. And I have no choice but to remove the shrader valve because the appion tool I use doesn't have a part to push on that valve.

[@EarlHayward]

Much easier now that they have those electric flaring tools… Not that I need one these days… But, would have been nice a couple decades ago… I have on old Refco set and had to do it the hard way when I was a contractor…

[@Cuyose]

You could save a lot of time and potential for leaks if you just cut the insulation off the condensation lines like you were cutting a pipe then just slide the sleave off, rather than cutting the entire length.

[@jimprice1959]

The horizontal part of the wall mounting bracked has slots that allow it to be bolted into studs rather than the siding.

[@-JonnyBoy-]

Correct. He isn't in any studs.

[@michaelwerbick]

thanks for being respectable on install cost. Sadly, some contractors want people to pay their $500k mortgage, $100k truck and $400k boat payment with one install. Then, they bitch when they need to come back out and fix their crappy work.

[@Gunstar1986]

Minis Split defiantly are incredible. I wired a large fire station a few years back and while not exactly a mini split such as this it had 2 Daikin VRV units outdoor and many cassette units in the dorms,offices locker, lounge rooms etc. It worked incredibly well in the summer and the units also produced heat for the winter. Other than just a couple pieces of duct for bringing fresh air into the building there was no other duct work crowding and taking all the room above the ceilings (which as an electrician is appreciated). Thing that surprised me the most is how little electricity these things use. Normally a building this size i would be used to hooking up at least 3 or 4 60amp heat pumps out side and same amount indoors. I think both units had a max fuse of 45amps and put my clamp meter on them running on the hottest day of the year think they were only pulling 10-12amps on each leg.

[@EarlHayward]

Clearly you are a contractor.. Most people here probably wouldn’t know the difference between a multi-port unit and a variable refrigerant volume (VRV) system as Daikin calls it, or a variable refrigerant flow (VRF) as other manufacturers call it (Daikin trademarked the term as I recall)… It has been a couple decades since I worked as a contractor, but not only did you have to be licensed to purchase those units from a distributor, you had to have training within the prior two or three years to keep you authorization as a dealer… If a VRV/VRF was not installed by a technician with qualifying training most manufacturers would not provide the longer warranty, if at all… But yeah, the VRV/VRF systems are nice… I became friends with a guy I met at AHR that was an engineer for Panasonic and he did his home in Phoenix with a Panasonic VRF (and he did it all himself, one of the few engineers I ever met that could actually install equipment)…

[@felixmilburn4594]

I love your videos. I live on the Eastcoast, and I would like to add mini splits throughout my home. Is it safe to get rid of my furnace to use the mini splits for heating and cooling. Also, is there a way to sync all the mini splits?

[@daffyduck8244]

Funny how HVAC mechanics do there work so professionally and go substandard on electrical install. Go video on the HVAC side, though electrical suffers.

[@flinch622]

The challenge on these things is.. the condensate drain. Also, maintaining moisture barrier where necessary wall penetrations are made. If you collect drain to a rain barrel, water garden plants or something. But drain is in the wall, that needs a P-trap like any other fixture as a gas block but: add a [normally plugged] fill port for winter as evaporation demands. Personal preference on condenser unit? Keep it 3 or 4 feet off the ground. That makes clearing growth easier and also avoids dirt accumulation around coil that driving rains, bugs, etc sometimes introduce -- leave at least a foot clearance from eaves or overhangs to give waste heat space to roll out. The install as shown? I would run hose over to a rain gutter, or aquafunge will later start growing on the shingles. Won't hurt anything probably, but cleaning becomes an annual chore - do not use a pressure washer. Placing a biocide tablet in condensate tray of indoor unit will go a long way in reducing maintenance.

[@MrJames226]

P traps are to prevent sewer gas from entering the home.

[@flinch622]

@@MrJames226 Normally yes. The trap is the thing: it blocks undesired airflow/backpressure

[@HobbyOrganist]

@@flinch622 and bugs!

[@Cfish613]

Is there supposed to be a minimum for linesets like 10 or 15 feet?

[@diyhvacguy]

No most systems are charged for UP TO 15’ of lineset. Anything under that is totally fine.

[@dew117]

It is a good practice to do... Back in my home country where mini splits are common, some manufacturers won't offer warranty, some units will make a weird noise and vibration, some manufacturers don't care about the min length.

[@brandoncoffey21]

I was gonna ask the same thing. I have a Pioneer mini split. Their instructions stated it had refrigerant for 10-25' of line set. And less it would damage it, any more and it would need to be charged.

[@blebekblebek]

I think every Air Conditioner, the split one at least, requires at least 3 meter of pipe, Short pipe is going to make compressor work harder and it's get overheat overtime, because there's no room left for the refrigerant to get cooled/hot enough. To make sure, check your manual says, however the information I get is kinda general rule of thumb, 3-5meter, 12meter is maximum. I get this information from technician not necessarily AC manufacturer. The other one is always place your Outdoor condenser lower than the evaporator so the OIL doesn't stuck inside your evaporator when it's not in use.

[@diyhvacguy]

I read the installation manual and didn’t see anything about a minimum blank on the lineset. So I don’t think there is any ill affect with having a lineset shorter than 3 meters.

[@blebekblebek]

@@diyhvacguy It's hard to give you a references without being filtered as a spam, if you read my previous reply with link, it was explained there. This was from the website: Pipeline too short If the manufacturers do not indicate the minimum length of the freon line in any of the available sources (paper or electronic instructions, video), focus on the generally accepted value - 3 m. In short, you can’t make a route in short. If we recall how the process of transition of the refrigerant from one state to another occurs, we will understand that a short pipe is simply not enough to completely transform the substance. Freon, which did not have time to turn into gas in the evaporator, enters the compressor in the form of liquid, which should not be allowed.

[@robertgregory2618]

@@blebekblebek Fortunately most splits have an accumulator, but checking with manufacturer probably best idea.

[@tomk0314]

@@diyhvacguy The manual for the C&H 1.5 ton that I'm going to be installing states a 3 meter minimum for the lineset.

[@blebekblebek]

@@robertgregory2618 I don't think this one have it. Accumulators are common in cars, I never seen one in Split AC, maybe not the one lower than 1.5 ton, idk what is metrics you use, we usually use PK or BTU.

[@charlesrichardson8635]

So was this unit high enough quality to install? What is your opinion about the unit?

[@diyhvacguy]

Yea the install went great. Everything worked excellent right out of the gate and i feel like it’s good quality. Will it stand the test of time and be reliable? Only time will tell.

[@jimmaltese1852]

Don't forget to pull that head unit apart once a year and clean the mildew build up behind the condenser and the barrel fan...

[@frankconte5545]

great job on most everything, i like that you give reasons why you do this or that as you go through the process. one thing I would note is your using two conductor cable w/ ground wiring (12/2) for your 220 circuit. You should technically put black (or red) tape on the white wire at each end to indicate the white wire is a LINE feed, and not a neutral.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks for the pointer. I’ll be sure and implement that! Need to pick up some red tape I suppose. Cheers

[@frankconte5545]

@@diyhvacguy black tape is fine to use on the white wire for this purpose 👍

[@jfowler702910]

Yes marking a white wire used as a line conductor is required by code. Also it was not necessary to leave a space between the circuit breakers in the service panel as every other breaker space is on a different 110v leg. There is no way to plug a 220v double pole cb into a panel and for each pole to be on the same 110v leg.

[@jfowler702910]

@@denverbraughler3948 it has to be within sight of the equipment and readily accessible. I believe that criteria is met in this application.

[@jfowler702910]

@@denverbraughler3948 code does not require "line" of sight. Only requires "within" sight and readily accessible. The AC equipment is within sight of the disconnect & the disconnect is readily accessible (i.e. there's nothing blocking access to it.).

[@BlaneHoover]

I installed the C&H mini 3yrs ago. The 10ft lines are flared from the factory. No flare tool needed for the DIY. I coiled up the extra line and strapped it to the side of the house. $900 mini split, $400 installation supplies and $250 for HVAC tech to vacuum test. I leave it on 24/7 with no issues. These are great additions to any small workshop or garage.

[@HobbyOrganist]

Yeah, you can coil up the excess lines, but some might want to do away with the coil, and personally I feel having that extra tubing wound up behind the unit is somewhat asking for an accident to happen where it gets damaged somehow or collects leaves and debris, I think it's probably better to eliminate the excess, but then you DO have to have a good flairing tool.

[@kgc1911]

I dont subscribe to channels but i am to yours. Not everyone can be a teacher, you have that skill. You explain every detail and miss nothing.. love it.. good job

[@diyhvacguy]

Thank you so much! That means a lot!!!!

[@jonswisher8796]

Just a note for others doing this themselves. The hor horizontal rail is made to get bolted to the house, then hang the vertices off of that. The vertical brackets have the holes if you can just mount them directly to the wall without the horizontal. The way this was done, the horizontal rail does absolutely nothing for the integrity of the supporting of the unit and should have been left off. And yes, you should use a torque wrench, especially if you are new to these things. Not a bad install for a homeowner, not a great one for a professional, hopefully this is closer to the first one. Line set is way short, not sure if the book calls that out. We take a lot of these units out after less than 5 years old, but never installed low end minisplits

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks for the info on the bracket. I tried to explain that but I guess I wasn’t super clear. I thought it would be good to sandwich the horizontal just to kind of lock the three together but it really didn’t make any difference. The book didn’t call out a minimum length so Im sure it will be fine. Thanks for the other tips. Cheer man

[@Barracuda48082]

Same here, One 3 head system I encountered had two hiwall on second floor, third on the third floor (the ceiling height on each level was over nine feet) ! One of the units were leaking inside the wall since this system was located while buildout was in planning. Installers left no slack in piping to pull head off wall and re torque flares. Pia. After five years of topping off, or full recharges, owner decided to just replace the whole system. so far no call backs.

[@fieromike1]

Looks great, 😉 Hopefully those lags hit a stud. The top bracket is so you can hit the stud and the vertical legs can be attached to the wall sheathing to keep the legs stable.

[@jokersworld1819]

question,,,,,, suction line looks as if it almost kinked....... did you do anything to correct the flat spot????

[@teseract]

Did you end up having to recover anything from the system to compensate for the short lineset? Most of these seem to list a minimum lineset length of 9-10 feet. Just curious as I'm doing my first install of a minisplit this weekend and was planning on having to coil some of the lineset to make sure it hits the minimum length as I don't have recovery equipment.

[@scotts4125]

A lot of these do have a minimum. 3ft sounds short but possibly this company allows for that. I did the precharged Mr. Cool on my garage. I was lucky that I could put the condenser anywhere so I measured out the lineset so I wouldn't have any loops.

[@cliftonbig66]

Just vent it to atmosphere. EPA will never know

[@teseract]

@@cliftonbig66 My shortest run is going to be like 6' so I'll take a 3' loop over risking the Biden EPA taking me from behind with no lube. ;)

[@Popounited]

I install the diy mrcooler 3split 3ton took my 2 hours only 4k things works perfectly

[@philby49]

Excellent video, So are these re badged Senville units, or are Senville units rebadged C+H because they appear identical, I have fitted a Senville here in Canada and its awesome.Oh and what did it cost? Thanks Dave

[@diyhvacguy]

At the time it was the cheapest, but there’s a new brand that’s come on called Della that’s about 650 This one was about 850. So Senville is actually made by a notorious brand called Midea. Cooper & Hunter is made by a separate company. Thanks for the comment! Cheers

[@mikaelahyakuya3485]

They are all Midea.

[@aaronatwood9298]

@@diyhvacguyI also have a C&H. It is Midea. It’s even admitted by their own people. My unit functions well, but it definitely is midea with the same garbage manual as the other clones, Olmo, seneville, Mr cool, Delta, Perfect air, Carrier, the Lowe’s and Home Depot store brand mini split, and pioneer. Seneville does have the best customer service, and carrier has the only one with a “good” manual and isn’t just poorly translated.

[@TheLiddokun]

Here in Vietnam, you can have a 12k btu unit installed for you... For $250, including installation. $350 and you can get a nicer inverter type.

[@rhtservicesllc]

Would think that foil tape would be better suited after cutting the insulation than Gorilla tape. The Gorilla tape could succumb to the same problem that duck tape does, which it doesn't stick well after several hot and cold seasons

[@RobertMehrer]

100% how not to install a split unit. You always need to torque and retorque the lines. Literally read the manufacturer specs on line connections. Your bends on the lines exceed recommended radius. You need to use hvac tape on condensate lines, duct tape is water resistant and will collect condensate on the outside and drip. Your wires also need to be in conduit, j box, and in liquidtite.... Also never use zip ties on the line covers... use the manufacturer supplied tape... How are you licensed? This is cringeworthy at best.

[@vginy4427]

Did you notice the 20 amp breaker he used on this unit with the spec of 15 amp max fuse rating?

[@extorter]

Incredible job, only thing I would add is to change the zip ties to the outdoor rated black ones, the white ones get brittle very quick when exposed to the elements

[@diyhvacguy]

But the clear ones look better 😍 haha

[@TheWestcoastking1]

Nice job, I've heard of guys cutting the flared fittings on the indoor unit the minimize leaks for the future. They connect the line set by using copper couplings and brazing them. Purging with nitrogen would be necessary to prevent clogging of the filter driyers or check valves on the system.

[@jamesm568]

There's nothing wrong with cheap air conditioning units as long as you can find someone to service it.

[@1marcelfilms]

Time to invest in a recovery machine and a cylinder and a scale

[@williamcraft7696]

I like to use spray foam on the copper lines. You can mold it to the form you need to fit through the wall. Helps prevent condensation.

[@johntrejo9070]

Very sharp - install , and detailed explanation , people who knows basic terms on HVAC , and knowledge on the use those great tools - flaring , service valve adapters , it makes the job much easier , thanks for your video 👍

[@hitekrednek66]

Nice job as usual! Just a small constructive criticism sir. This is something a DIYER would do, would like to have seen ya do the manual flair on line set so we could see that. I know you do these all the time and using the cool tools you use are much more convenient but I would not spend the money for that. But, great install! I have heard these don't last long. What is your thoughts?

[@slidewaze]

I"m at well over 2 years on my pioneer 18,000 btu (self install) with my wife keeping the room at 67°F (Hot flashes living in the deserts of S Nevada, poor gal) so it's been running basically full time. Heat in the winter, major cool in the Spring, Summer and Fall. Zero issues. Cools like a champ. Keep the air filters clean.

[@diyhvacguy]

Yes I thought about that! On the next mini split install i will for sure show how to do it with the manual flare tool!! Thanks for the input as usual! Cheers man

[@hitekrednek66]

​@@diyhvacguythanks sir! Keep this great content coming. 👏 I am tickled your channel is getting the credit it deserves!

[@kjhnsn7296]

Five years on my Pioneer. 24000 but. Also self install. Runs great with no issues. Quickly cools down 1000sqft finished basement. Will also occasionally use for heat in the fall before it gets too cold.

[@revtmyers1]

I have a MrCool and yes it was very easy. I did not realize that other units were still precharged, just not the line set. Good to know.

[@HobbyOrganist]

That was confusing, because it seems Mr cools' LINESETS are precharged and the others are not- the charge is inside the condensor/compressor unit, imagine the surprise of having installed a non Mr cool unit and getting used to cutting the lineset shorter and then you start cutting the Mr cool lineset only to rudely discover its fully pressurized with refrigerant LOL!

[@user-yx4on8hx4w]

@@HobbyOrganist the Mr. Cool units don't have refrigerant in the line. The compressor is still pre-charged. The lines are basically pre-sealed with special connectors so you don't have to pull a vacuum.

[@LLCNet21]

I do this as well. I charge the cost of the unit plus 1500.00 to install. I work out of my house, no building overhead. It pays the bills and I have extra left over to live one. When a company gives a 8000.00 to 10000.00 to replace furnace and air conditioner. I will show the home owner the exact cost of buying the equipment. In and average house everything needed to replace this will cost on average 4000.00. This also includes additional material needed to install. During the summer the parts houses run specials and will sell everything in a package deal. That usually saves 300.00 to 500.00 depending on the system. That savings should be past on to the customer, but big companies do not pass this on. When they tell you they can save you 1000.00 if you schedule and install, they could actually give you 2500.00 and still make a profit.

[@KeepingItKeith]

They work great. Ive used that brand before. Less than $1000 and cools a large area.

[@1966badnova]

Very clean install except one thing. You need to put a drip loop on the lines so rain water doesn't follow the freon lines into the wall. That or maybe some sort of sealer or diverter on the bottom of the lines. Thanks for sharing the details.

[@VVMVVMVVM]

Holes are drilled at a downward angle, how would rain water run up the lines?

[@sharedknowledge6640]

I’d recommend spending just a little bit more for a Pioneer. Not only is the Pioneer higher efficiency with better specs and features but they honor their 5 year warranty on DIY installs and have a US based HQ for support and parts. You also significantly kinked the vapor line by not using a tubing bender or a spring. But in general you can install your own ductless for around one third or eve one quarter what the big companies charge for similar hardware and 4 hours of labor.

[@MrLangDog]

I noticed that too.

[@jsonkody]

this video is several levels above every else I've watched .. in professionalism ..

[@RussellHank-t3t]

The word 'best' is subjective. I can make the following claim with no concern for any harm to my integrity. T-Rex brand duct tape is far superior to Gorilla brand duct tape. I've used each to secure a DIY foamie camper shell to my pickup. The T-Rex did the job admirably while the Gorilla failed miserably. T-Rex also held a heavy-duty tarp to an old camper with no help from any guy-ropes. In each case, I was concerned that removing the tape would damage the finish because of the impressive holding power. The Gorilla brand couldn't even keep the insulation in place long enough to find a place where T-Rex tape was sold.

[@customdetailer0078]

Do you have any personal preference on the brand of mini split you yourself would buy or recommend to a customer? Thank you.

[@petersmart1999]

I can assure you that Mitsubishi are the best,Fujitsu is a close second! I have Mitsubishi units that cool switch equipment 24/7 365 in upstate NY,they are 26 years old! No major breakdowns! I have Fujitsu low temp heat pumps in my house,1 4ton and a 2 ton, 4 high mounts and 3 floor mounts! Saves alot of money!

[@petersmart1999]

P.S the best bargain units I have worked on would be Pioneer! Pretty decent!

[@customdetailer0078]

@@petersmart1999 Thank you for your recommendation.

[@diyhvacguy]

Daikin is one of the leading brands, but Mitsubishi and Jujitsu and great products as well. I’m sure I’ll be doing a Fujitsu mini split install video soon. So it will be nice to compare. AND to compare some of these a few years down the road would be cool but time will tell with this Cooper & Hunter 👍🏼

[@customdetailer0078]

@@diyhvacguy Thank you for taking time out of your day to respond to me. Much appreciated! Also I’m a new subscriber and love your channel.

[@48jimowens]

Created a potential problem by slicing the foam insulation on the head line set. Just bend it back as a package and you'll be fine. Installed my unit a year ago and I love it. Cheap to run.

[@williamgildea8348]

Nice install, but what about line set length. Isn’t there a minimum amount? Next time try mounting the horizontal bracket to the wall then you can adjust the brackets to what you need.

[@famousdude1239]

What is the mininum refrigerant lineset length? Could not find it on the engineering info sheet. I would not install an inverter w/o this data from the manufacturer. Remember this is PRECHARGED with enough EXTRA refrigerant for up to 30 feet. It looks like you built a possible oil trap in you system!

[@lukasgayer5393]

I wonder whath the size of the hole in the wall should be? Does anybody know the diameter of the hole? It looks to me like something about 3 - 3,5 inches. Am I right?

[@ozzy4219]

Never , never= never install your condenser on the wall !!!! Learn bad ways my self !!!!! So much noise and vibration on your exterior wall we’re driving me nuts !!!! Don’t hesitate to spend just few more 💲💲💲💲💲💲💲 to do concrete pad !!! And remember , your system will be perform as good as installation performance of the yours installer !!! You cheap up on your contractor , you will regret it in the future !!!

[@chrisalister2297]

@33:35 you shouldn't be doing electrical work. You're a licensed electrician? Did you pull a permit? Inspected? Guessing not. No way that passed.

[@RMartin631]

How long will the Cheapest Mini-Split on Amazon last? Do you know? We installed a Mitsubishi Mr Slim 12 years ago and it has worked flawlessly.

[@robertjavior4339]

In thailand you can buy a 12,000btu Samsung A/C for $396.00 and the installation is free !! No joke

[@wheeliedart]

Wow you didn't Give any Air temperature or weather it even cooled the room or not. That video was about you, Or at least your point of view Only. Really what was the point? They make thermometers.... I guess it's all about the view count

[@joeroe2839]

In Mexico there best brand mirage we buy em for 350 bucks complete and install in the us total of 600 😂..those prices are way upp

[@wga4164]

Dont like C&H minisplits, Daikin all the way. Also for the Techs out there if you ever walk into a home with a WABAN minisplit just call it quits right there.

[@dalepres1]

Wouldn't it be smarter to cut around the circle of the pipe insulations, pull them off, and then have just that butt joint to tape them back up instead all along the length of the line. I watched another video of you doing this where you did a much better job.

[@RMartin631]

Are you just drilling into studs and cutting 2-1/2" holes in the wall blind? What about electric wires and plumbing?

[@georgezardecki2545]

In 1980s I was in air-conditioning business .Watching your videos I'm impressed that young person like you have so much knowledge .You always doing thinks right .In my HVAC days there was two basic refrigerants R12 and R22. 30 pounds of R22 was 65 $. Thank you for showing home owners that HVAC is not rocket science.

[@JustNobodyButME]

Now you can't get R12 and 1 pound of R22 is $100.

[@dd_ranchtexas4501]

@georgezardecki2545: "I'm impressed that young person like you have so much knowledge" The knowledge that the CONDENSER goes inside??? [0.11]........

[@christopherscott8853]

A couple things....1. In every building jurisdiction I've worked in, the disconnect must be is sight of the appliance it serves. 2. I've installed about 180 mini-splits, mostly Bryant but Fujitsu, Samsung, and Daikin. They all have a minimum line set length of 10 feet. 3. Drop a drop of oil on the back side of those flares

[@christopherscott8853]

​@@JustNobodyButMEI have a competitor here in town that is charging $600 a pound for R22.

[@JustNobodyButME]

@@christopherscott8853 Wow! We need to up our price! lol

[@GmGarlo]

my dehumidifier fan motor has 2 black , red ,white and blue wires . I know the 2 black wires goes to the capacitor but which of the remaining wires goes to my power cord ? my powercord has the standard black , white and green wires coming out of it ? Note, on the fan motor the red wire has an H in brackets and the white wire has an L in brackets .the blue wire has no letter in brackets . would like to here your thoughts on that, please and thank you .

[@peterrogers1616]

That's the only U.L. listed mini split available which does mean something. Even Mitsubishi is ETL trash

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

How did the head unit lineset come to be almost insede the wall? Thats nuts.

[@LordFalconsword]

I'm a full time RVer and keep hoping the industry switches to minisplits, and root top models suck.

[@desiredkid]

You left the line set short in comparison to other mini split manufacturers. Did this manufacturer give specs for the maximum and minimum lengths for the line set?

[@diyhvacguy]

They did not. I looked through the install manual and didn’t see anything about minimum length. I’m going back to maintenance his other main system so I’ll check the charge then.

[@mtvjackass74]

Have you ever installed a Daikin vrf cassettes, I swear I'm about to pull my hair out!!!

[@phillipm3799]

What wire whip did you use for this? The dude who sold me mine sold me one with that braided wire and man it sucks. Also what’s the wire cap called you used on the communication line?

[@MasterMayhem78]

That sure is a big open hole in the outer wall. Won’t rain run down the cables into the wall? Shouldn’t you have sprayed some foam inside and sealed the hole up?

[@trombogenic]

well done. great video. i like your use and explanations of the modern tools and equipment. thanks!

[@CandBLawnCare]

Nobody ever shows how they seal the hole around the lines going in the house and how to make it look nice. Yes you can use expansion foam but that looks terrible. What’s a better option? Silicone?

[@officerkrupke4966]

You spent the extra money and got an auto flare tool for your linesets, but you bent your tubing by hand. You left a damaged flat spot on your outdoor suction line due to this. Always use a tube bender for this.

[@berettaboi]

Is it kinked? No, damaged? Not really. Preferred? No. Will it work for the life of the unit - and not be the leak/failure point, most definitely. The line set directly out of the back of the head unit is already pre-bent, you can spend the time weakening that spot, bending it back straight to get the bending tool on the bend it again another direction, or careful hand bend it/twist the bend to the necessary position. You're not going to know how weak the copper is, and how it reacts until you try I suppose.

[@officerkrupke4966]

@@berettaboi Do you own a simple tube bender? I just thought it ironic that you spent all that money on an automated flaring tool, and left a flat spot on the tube by bending it with nothing but your hands. Slip a piece of flex tubing over line, it will prevent you from kinking line. Is it criticism? Yes. Is it constructive? Yes. Take it with grace.

[@berettaboi]

I have a tube bender. It would definitely work for the outside unit work, but not for the inside. I guess you only get one shot at kinking a line, so I would have used my tube bender, but didn't look critical here, it's not kinked...

[@FoxHollowBuilds]

I recently killed my micron meter and called customer service. They stated that it was no longer functional because it got refrigerant on the sensor. This was considered user error and now I am out 1 meter. just a word of caution.

[@peterrogers1616]

That CPS vac gauge is not rated for positive pressure. I blew that cps into the neighbors yard

[@richlikeg3722]

Great views of the mountains, all flat here in Texas. Good clean install

[@alanbain5779]

none of the roof flashing is correct on that roof. The step flashing doesnt have a counter flash installed over it. Any water running down the siding will get behind the step flashing and into the house. I would have told the owners about the site condition. Cheers

[@darksider7791]

The issue I find with these type of ACs is when they get clog. Water spill out on whatever is below them.

[@MrSaabviggen]

those white linesets will eat the copper.. and you want to torque it 13 ft lbs and 33 ft lbs.. read the manual and never ever ever trust the oem flare on the lineset..

[@jackbenjamin2703]

I understand that you have to have a minimum of 10 line to operate properly.

[@davidroman4483]

Does the manufacturers warranty still cover if i buy it from amazon?

[@johneldorado]

Installers want like $5k in labor to install these. Like a half day project.

[@danlah1303]

Would like to hear more pro and cons from your perspective on the cheap units that require pro install vs Mr. Cool self-install.

[@redsadventures5654]

No units require pro install just Mr Cool caters to DIY installation moreso than mainstream brands

[@jimmypautz]

@@redsadventures5654 Mr. Cool has the pre-charged lineset that doesn't need any flaring or special tools, that's really the main difference.

[@mr.c6674]

​@@jimmypautz, true, but Mr. Cool charges a lot for that. DIY "could" be better served by renting/buying the necessary tools.

[@jimmypautz]

@@mr.c6674 there's also a lot less skill involved in those precharged linesets. For someone who does this once or twice, it may be worth the extra money.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

Your fire Insurance company is the biggest issue.

[@alexfriedeck1978]

A much better setup would be to throw away the factory provided pipe wrap that needs to be Gorilla taped tight to the line to prevent condensation is to use Prestite cork impregnated adhesive tar tape that is used in automotive A/C applications that can be bought at Napa, AutoZone, Oriley, Amazon to prevent condensation from forming on the vapor line inside automobile interiors. Prestite adheres directly to the piping with adhesive so no air that has moisture in it can get to the piping thereby eliminating any condensation potential. I would also be beneficial to use Prestite all the way from the expansion valve to the condenser on the vapor line because it acts as an evaporator also stealing BTU's from your indoor evaporator that has a fan on it to pull BTU's from the conditioned space because you only have so much condenser to pull the BTU's from the recirculating refrigerant. Two wraps of Prestite would give you a huge R-value increase over that flimsy pipe wrap insulation provided.

[@AK-oz4ew]

"Piping and fittings for refrigerant vapor (suction) lines shall be insulated with insulation having a thermal resistivity of not less than R-3" where I live, many locations call for more. your cork tar tape is R-1, sold in 2" wide rolls, and pain in rear to apply

[@DeVoNmotorsports]

premium or efficient air conditioners should measure and use outside air to cool the area when colder and to a set amount most thermostats don't even have a setting to change the amount of temp rise before it turns on to stop short cycling... the fact that almost none do this is absolutely absurd and a glitch

[@CatheysKid]

Thoughts on angling the air handler slightly toward the drain discharge side?

[@426superbee4]

They suppose to be better than a window unit. But they cost way more! All i do is open a window spread the siding out and set it and seal around it. Plug it in and ready to fire it up

[@keithanderson9606]

Thank you. Love your videos and sharing your knowledge. I would love to put a mini split in my camper van and run it off solar. Video Ideas for the future? Cheers

[@diyhvacguy]

I’ve seriously contemplated this. I wanted to install a cassette ceiling Mount unit in place of our existing ac, but I haven’t decided to pull the trigger on that yet. Ours works pretty well as it’s a 2021. But I’d love to do a video on that in the future!

[@JayBoThurston]

gg kinking the pipe when you bent it by hand to the unit, probaby should have spent the 6$ on a spring bender

[@renaissancemaneric8019]

High quality video. Most appreciated!

[@DigitalChiselWorks]

whats the best mini split you would recommend for the money, that also has a heat pump?

[@wogfun]

That conduit on the roof wall almost ruined your morning, lol, nothing is easy!

[@alezm00]

for that unit with those short lines you could have problems with a very low superHeat that could damage the compressor in a few years... check that and eventually recover a part of gas from the unit

[@sprockkets]

That's not the reason. You need a minimum of around 10 ft lineset so that the refrigerant has room to expand before hitting the coil. Removing refrigerant won't solve that. Though you do what you can.

[@alezm00]

@@sprockkets yes that's right... Thats why you always have to respect the specs in the manual

[@EarlHayward]

⁠​⁠​⁠@@sprockkets It is not that the refrigerant needs to expand before the evaporator coil, there is no expansion before the evaporator coil, it is a liquid to the expansion valve which handles that (hence, the name expansion valve)… The problem is with too short of a suction line as it will cause compressor floodback where not all of the refrigerant has evaporated (particularly if there is low superheat)… Thus, some liquid still exists on the low pressure side in the suction line and that causes damage to the compressor… It will also impact the “oil in circulation ratio” as you might have oil retention in places you don’t want it if refrigerant flow impaired…

[@sprockkets]

@@EarlHayward Incorrect. Expansion in a mini split happens at the outdoor unit. All mini splits have accumulators so liquid return is expected and not an issue.