I Kinda Broke My Truck Already

[@y.a.salimu5601]

That comment at 12:00 where you talk about parking the truck on a boat and hooking it up to power the boat… genius.

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

It’s very handy to have a mobile fuel depot haha

[@jerryweaver2247]

Awesome. That’s very good information. You’re on the front edge of the wood gasification technology. I’m doing my manifolds today and will have butterflies on each port to experiment with.

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

Nah, it's long been said anything with a gasifier has already been tried haha the only thing I'll be doing beyond what anyone else has done is using a pcm to control timing in excess of 45° advance. The v10 computer can go way past that, but it is effectively cheating the compression ratio up. There are several guys that have purpose built high compression engines for woodgas, the problem is past about 10/1 ration you pretty well lose the ability to run pump gas. For my needs this is a dual fuel truck, I can't take gasoline completely out of the equation, but if I take it 99% out of the equation then we are looking reeeaaallll good!

[@jerryweaver2247]

@@BigBeavrSlayer I’m avoiding the tendency to copy anyone too closely with my build. With my extensive experience with similar devices I may accidentally find something new to the wood gas business . Just doing whatever makes sense to me. I’ll put this build up on the interwabs after it doesn’t work out and then you can see it.

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

@@jerryweaver2247 haha alright I'm looking forward to it!

[@MerwinARTist]

Love the rambles .. I'm surprised that you didn't build your cooling rails out of metal pipe of some kind. I guess you have a video about that maybe .. haven't looked .. been on my mind tho. 🙂

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

They are metal, but to keep it serviceable I can quickly disassemble it for washing out the soot that builds up. But you theb play the game of if the gas is hot, to keep in in the rails. By the time it gets to the corner post it's cool to the touch but the center post can get downright hot, 7-800°f while pulling hard. Funco couples are only rated at 200°f 🤣

[@nhhbbyloggr5022]

You need an air deflector wing on top of the cab to push air donw for cooling

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

I did think about that, but I kept everything below cab line to reduce wind drag on this build. This morning cross over got to 1100°f and silicone couplers took it like a champ. If I didn't have the mightered corners on the front I would have fully welded the front of the rack then just passed a hose through the tube for clean outs and not worried about it at all. By the time gets to the front corner post it's cool enough you can hold onto the rail as long as you want maybe 70°f so it's cooling really well. I think I maybe over pulling the system at highway speeds

[@darthgbc363]

I believe some air still comes though gasifier & that's why not much needs to be added later. ????

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

The idea is to not let any unconverted oxygen to pass through the reduction zone, but I'm sure some makes its way through. Ideally the ratio is 50/50, but that could be little leaks in the system that adds up to not being able to set a mixture well. Hard to say really

[@kittywampusdrums4963]

I saw a guy with a ball valve and then a fine-tuning one after it, I think a person could use a propane tank valve and really fine tune it.

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

The throttle body's that are on my toyota seem to work the best so far in my opinion, these non sealing valves I built for this one its seems a lot harder to get that perfect mixture

[@stevew1851]

Nice. Norman89. LOL, who am I?

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

Well I only have that username on the hunting washington, waguns, and the drive on wood forums so I don't have much to narrow it down by

[@mechanic_prepper]

Is your afr meter a wideband?

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

This a narrow band gauge that just t's into the stock 02 sensor

[@mechanic_prepper]

@@BigBeavrSlayer any plans on going wideband? I have one in my 2001 already and unfortunately have been stupid behind on my build . Im researching like crazy and doing the math and suspect stoich for the species of wood I will be burning will be in the 5:1 area. I know on my generator I'm at 6:1 to pull the same load as gasoline. I'm thinking your v10 is running extremely lean on woodgas and timing is proof of lower flammability and flame speed ...I know running extreme lean gasoline mixtures you need tons of timing at afr of 24:1 or higher. Which is polar opposite of say 16:1...at barely lean mixture the flame speed gets much faster and combustuin temps go up and need to pull timing....but at a certain threshold timing has to be brought back in as you get leaner and leaner. Your narrow band won't tell you much but you could peg it pig rich on the grave and see if you pick up some power. One downfall of running richer mixture will be much faster rate at which hopper is emptied.

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

@@mechanic_prepper I would like to upgrade the gauge later to match the others when money comes available. If I peg full rich on the gauge it looses all power completly and starts blowing smoke out the tailpipe black like a diesel. It wants to be lean at 35° timing for best felt power, it won't make power at all if the gauge starts getting rich its just a blubbering mess that idles and that's about it. My toyota acts the same way, it wants lean on the gauge and all the timing you can give it