I'll make my own heatsink - Just add Blackjack

[@dimitriid]

I love the logic of: "I don't trust this janky cooling solution, well not over *my own* janky cooling solution"

[@CraftComputing]

With blackjack! And hookers!

[@cortburris9526]

@@CraftComputing If you can afford blackjack and hookers, You can probably afford some VHB tape to hold things down on your cnc. Could probably find some uses for it with the hookers too...

[@Jay-ik1pt]

@Kevnev Katfute Well that, and the fact that a pair of heatpipe air coolers aren't going to leak water all over his server in the worst case.

[@Mr.Leeroy]

I'm with the man, don't trust water in unattended server even with EK waterblocks.

[@classic_jam]

@@CraftComputing Scratch the blackjack.

[@RubyRoks]

This channel has come a long way from Chinese X79 motherboards and i love it

[@rett.isawesome]

Buckle up boys and girls. We gonna use the whole buffalo in this bad boy.

[@novellahub]

There was still meat left on the hook.

[@Fishbait075]

That's engineering that would make Asus and Noctua proud right there!

[@josephravu5039]

"But for you it's going to be...And testing is done!" Smooth!!

[@gamesandsoftwares1441]

this gave me a good laugh

[@RussSirois]

22:35 "...but for you, I guess it's gonna be-- And the testing is all done" Not sure if you unintentionally cut yourself off, but that was perfectly executed

[@soniclab-cnc]

holding down your material is paramount... you already have the tool for making hold downs. Use the cnc to make your hold down fixtures. cut a pocket in mdf and fit the part in...

[@dbooker3182]

exactly, if you cut the fixture in the machine you know exact position & orientation

[@OldMadScientist]

Hey Jeff, you might want to check the attic of your garage. Most likely there is no insulation above the garage. Adding R30 insulation in the attic above the garage will help keep your garage cooler in the summer months. Just a thought.

[@ForSquirel]

grinder.. and I'm not talking about that dating thing. Making your own parts is a learning experience and I applaud you.

[@trevordoeseverything219]

Now this is what I want! More pls!

[@DrSpanky]

For the heatsink for the VRM, cut wood strips with a chop saw to block up the fins and make it solid. Then CNC and tap out the wood.

[@jb2590]

New MDF is a much better spoil board as it is essentially perfectly flat, ply wood is far from perfectly flat. You can test with a straight edge and shine light between the straight edge and board to see where light shines through is not flat and when clamping will cause discrepancy to the Z depth of cut on the part.

[@stucorbishley]

Great job dude! Especially on the CNC work, that stuff seems to be way more difficult than a people who've gone through the learning gauntlet make it appear.

[@Hardwar3_Hack3r]

Red shirt Jeff - wait, what, wrong channel! Excellent work 😃

[@CraftComputing]

LOLOL

[@Neuther1]

Pretty sure the table saw your c&c is on would cut the fins on aluminum. Just FYI for next time!

[@VelcorHF]

Dude, dude, my dude! I love this. Zip ties need to go. The next step in Home Lab is Home Fab!

[@NickyNiclas]

You really want a more powerful and higher RPM spindle with a HSS tool for alu and a bit more rigidity depending on what precision you're looking for + coolant or the alu starts gumming up, I suggest getting a better spindle then using your CNC to make upgrade parts that'll make it more rigid.. That's a fun process!

[@michaelthompson9798]

Hi Jeff, great video and impressive to see modders doing their craft and enjoying it. Great work!🥰👍🎉🥳

[@TuMusicaTV]

Next time use a grinder and it will be your best tool for this custom work. its the best tool for all shops from mechanics and auto body shops and more. A cutting disk with protection will do more then you need. :-)

[@TheNefastor]

LOL when I saw that 200-buck Wish CNC router I immediately started placing bets on which parts would explode and in which order :-D

[@jameswubbolt7787]

Having fun is the best part. Nice work .

[@ArizonaVideo99]

I'm a home CNC guy. For CAM use Cambam. Your mill is really weak so it will be a challenge. Your bit looks like a cheep one. A two flute carbide should work better, get a spare you will need it. I would get a 6 pack of 1/6". WD40 works well for lube. Feeds for you mill might be around 10 to 15 IPM but the DOC should be low like .030". For the heatsink I have had the same problem. They are soft and ring like a bell. 3d printing a support to go between fins might help. I would use a slot cutter and put them in a vice sideways but you cant do that. A better hack saw would be a move up. Nice work BTW.

[@CraftComputing]

Yeah, I have some two flute cutters, but they are 3mm. I needed some 2.4mm holes to tap M3 screws, and the only 2mm cutter I had was a 4-flute. I'll give Cambam a look, and hopefully that will solve some of my issues. I don't need a lot of complexity out of my rig, but I need to be able to cut simple parts like this in a regular basis.

[@ArizonaVideo99]

@@CraftComputing Cam Bam had a free version for years. It still might be there but hard to find. I have it somewhere.

[@ArizonaVideo99]

I dont see the free anymore. I think after the 40 day is over you can still do 150 lines of Gcode.

[@dbooker3182]

mecsoft freemill might be an option for simple stuff, we had trialed their paid stuff and it seemed alright, about on par price/performance wise with bobcad

[@experiment18a40]

i enjoy watching your projects. thanks for sharing

[@ozbusa]

Absolutely awesome stuff. Love it immensely. Def deserve a beer

[@SianaGearz]

Still the best "i made my own GPU heatsink" on KZbin!

[@JamieStuff]

Don't cut out the piece by routing a box. Do each of the four sides independently, or do the long sides and end as a "U", and then the cut-off cut last. The chatter is either cutting too fast, too deeply per pass, or both. A shot of lube may also help.

[@Prophes0r]

FIIIIIIINALLY! A video that uses 3D printing for EXACTLY one of the 2.1 things it is good for. Protyping and Art.^^ (^^ Ignore the 0.1 remainder unless you are a materials engineer and ACTUALLY qualified to judge whether or not something MUST be 3D printed, and why...)

[@GdotWdot]

Through my work contacts I know of a company whose assembly lines have some bits and ends that frequently need replacing; it has recently become more cost-effective to 3D-print them in-house than to hope the shipment from China might someday arrive.

[@CraftComputing]

3D printing absolutely is capable of creating structural parts. My 3D Printer enclosure is built with 3D printed brackets. I'm actually considering re-making the heatsink brackets out of carbon fiber reinforced PETG, which should be more than up to the task. While I see where you're coming from, not everyone has the tools to make everything 'the right way'. Sometimes if all you have is a 3D Printer, every problem becomes a 3D Printer problem ;-)

[@Prophes0r]

@@CraftComputing I'm not arguing that you CAN'T make things with a 3D printer. I'm arguing that you shouldn't, because 3D printing is almost always the worst option. The video itself supports my opinion that people should be making things with "traditional" methods when possible. NOTE: I get that you were using a 3D printer and CNC mill to get more used to them. That's fine. But you also showed that it was much more cost/time efficient to just knock out a dozen things using a drill press, file, and grinder. 3D printers aren't magic. They do some very specific things well. They just happen to either do most things poorly, or at best, equally well, with MUCH more time and expense. NOTE 2: Most "specialized" filament is a borderline scam. And the "Carbon Fiber" kind fits into that group. Does it TECHNICALLY have tiny carbon fibers in it? Yes. Does that make it stronger? Probably. (It is so slight that there are applications that it will make WORSE) Is it really bad for your print heads? Absolutely. If you really need strength in a 3D printed part, look into pausing your print and embedding reinforcing wire. But I wouldn't bother. If you are going to do any of this again, you would be better off using aluminum again, and using spring mounted screws to maintain pressure properly.

[@SianaGearz]

@@Prophes0r Why put more effort into things than needed? Why make things more inaccessible than needed? Why gatekeep? An ABS plastic hook that i had on my wardrobe broke. I don't have to order anything, i don't have to go through stores, i can just print myself one, and i did, and i'm fairly certain it won't break (PETG print which was beefed up compared to original ABS part in thickness, and printed in a fortunate orientation), and if it will, i'll just have the machine make me a new one, maybe modify it to be better, learn from the issues seen, and i don't have to do much anything myself, it just comes out of the thing fully made. The original mass produced part had stress risers, inconsistent quality, uneven shrinkage, it was actual garbage, i'm happy that i don't have to put up with this sort of junk, and it cost me the lot of a few cents. It's actually cheaper than going to the store or paying just shipping alone. I don't need two dozen of these things, just one, maybe two. So it takes... 40 minutes to spit out a 20g part. So what? I can be doing other things during this time, only ensuring that the machine hasn't caught fire. Still faster than getting to a store and back. Laugh at me as much as you want for having 3D printed stuff dotted around my house, i'll laugh at your superiority complex in turn. The thing with CF stuff is that it's useful, but not in the way people may naively believe. It doesn't make prints stronger, not really, it makes them substantially weaker in standard tension or load tests. It's also supposed to not clog your nozzle, so it's not true fibre material, but basically slightly elongated powder, you can't use the same anisotropy or aspect as in injection moulding, no way. BUT it does make the prints substantially stiffer, which is sometimes just what you need! How often do you need a metal part for its sheer tensile strength? Often it's just for stiffness. It also completely prevents shrinkage, peeling and splitting; so when engineering plastics are not printable alone, too dependent on conditions that you have a hard time meeting with a desktop machine, pumping them up with this sort of filler makes them printable actually very nicely.

[@Prophes0r]

​@@SianaGearz I don't think you know what 'gatekeeping' means. You might also not realize that actual gatekeeping isn't a negative thing. In fact, I was doing the opposite of gatekeeping. I WANT people to make things. I WANT people to have 'maker' skills. If you have a 3D printer, I FULLY expect you to have basic hand tools. There is really no excuse not to. And since they have the tools, and those tools will do a better/faster/cheaper job, then why aren't they using them? Can you toast a piece of bread with a CNC laser cutter? Yeah probably. If you have a CNC laser cutter, should you also have a toaster or toaster-oven? Also yes. (I'm assuming you want to toast things) Could you STILL have a reason to use the CNC laser? Yes. But it's probably 'art'. When I was commenting on the CF filament, I was talking about how abrasive it is. It chews up print heads. As to the other stuff? If you enjoyed doing it, then it's fine. It's a recreational activity. But that doesn't make it a good way to do it. Claiming it is even an OK idea, without making it about entertainment is disingenuous. Your coat hook is a perfect example. You spent how much time and effort to make something that does the job of...a nail? A piece of dowel? I stand my my statements. Art. Prototyping. (And some real engineering edge-cases) I've been working with these things for over a decade now. Those are the 1 things they excel at. Not a single time have I run into a situation that even bends those rigid rules, let alone breaks them. But whatever. If people want to print a canoe or a flat sheet of plastic because it entertains them, it's fine. (But I am going to reserve the right to roll my eyes and/or snort derisively.)

[@RaidOwl]

I applaud the amount of work you put into this. I plan on splitting up some of my GPUs soon and while I wont be making a custom heatsink, I will be using your other videos as a guide. Cheers!

[@SteveBrownRacing]

Dremel or an angle grinder from harbor freight will do a decent job of cutting unsupported heat sink fins.

[@deechvogt1589]

Some good making Jeff. Really enjoyed. Thanks for sharing your passion project with us.

[@DemonicAnimatronic]

Great work, though be careful with grinding aluminum on that bench grinder, it will gum up the grinding wheel and then could explode if you try to grind steel on it.

[@SanHydronoid]

Nah I absolutely love it. May not apply verbatim but I can see how this can be a good guide for custom cooling solution. I'm about to make a custom GPU shroud so this was good inpiration haha

[@VinnyVidiVintage]

Pretty fun to watch you do this. Still wasn't sure it was going to work, but that made it more fun.

[@seths1997]

16:12 you and Wendell have a good choice in music 😁

[@metrotechguru5863]

I feel like I'm back in my high school shop class after watching this video. Very cool.

[@EatMyYeeties]

So, the CNC isn't the problem you were having! The issue is how soft Aluminum is. It's notoriously difficult to CNC because it's not nearly as hard as steel.

[@Squinoogle]

It's been a very long time since I modified a heatsink to fit something, so props for the mod. I did have a serious "d'oh!" moment when you ran into trouble with the CNC (though I hadn't seen the drill-press sitting there yet). New-toy-syndrome is a serious affliction, and you know what they say about having a hammer... I've learned a lot about CNC from watching Alex over at bit-tech, I've also forgotten about 90% of it :-D That said, I'd look at securing the part to the fixture plate from the inside rather than the outside. You may be able to fake-out the pathing software by splitting your cad file into two, 1 part with just the centre holes and the locating dot, the 2nd with everything else. Run the first one, screw down using those holes, then run the 2nd - pathing shouldn't be an issue and it should completely cut out the part without it flying off. And, hey, at least the beer was good this time round!

[@ToXXeRR]

and here is me with AC running in my homelab server room and ambient temp is 29c.... the joys of tropics. Cool concept, love the mod.

[@JimBloggins1]

I'm curious why not use the CNC to make the spoiilboard and jig in one? You could've used 19mm ply or MDF to recess the jig, a rabbet bit to create a channel to hold the aluminum stock and everything would've been perfectly squared and already oriented for homing as well.

[@cts006]

Craft "the hookers are implied" Computing

[@Space_Reptile]

"when my rack reaches about 85°c even w/ the AC on" god and here i thought Arizona was hot in the sommer, you can fry eggs on that rack

[@CraftComputing]

F

[@Fullion-CA]

You can use the tiny desktop cnc but learn Gcode and forget the "expensive" CAM software.

[@FrankieLujan]

You're a mad man Jeff!

[@cpljimmyneutron]

FYI... aluminum is soft enough you could have sanded down the fins on a belt sander instead of cutting them with a coping saw, or a cnc.

[@TheNerdy1]

I LOVE these kinds of mods! Keep up the awesome work!

[@sliptap]

Awesome video - one tip on heatsinks. I've had a lot of luck using thermal glue. The cheap 1G tubes on Amazon work really well and definitely glue the heatsinks down...they won't go anywhere. You can also buy heatsink kits on there too with aluminum and copper ones. Just an idea for those who have, for example, motherboard VRMs that need cooling but don't have a CNC machine :-P

[@antoniocarlosgerminiani8210]

Epic! Keep up the good job.

[@draggonhedd]

if only manufacturers made gpu coolers this simple and easy

[@SianaGearz]

Apparently there's a guy in Russia and a bunch of guys in China who will make you a custom heatsink any shape you want for not a lot of money. So just now i bought myself a mainboard which i knew would have parts missing (but wasn't quite sure which parts), and it turns out to be missing the VRM heatsink. Thought of making use of their services, but i found a good heatsink where i had to only lop off a little bit of stuff and tap some holes, and if i didn't, i can still use the hacksaw, i have no shame. Next up, i'm probably going to need to rig up a mount for my CPU heatsink - i forgot to buy the AM4 conversion kits when those were available, and now they are unobtanium. It's possible to get some mileage out of a Dremel and hacksaw and files and stuff. That little inductor hole you made? There's no hard reason why it couldn't be a through hole in a pinch, and there are different ways to make a pocket. People shouldn't get discouraged from trying their hand at things just because they don't have a CNC or don't know CAD. Apropos CAD, FreeCAD or Fusion360 will probably do you good. They can generate toolpaths and you can have them done your way. I absolutely love the cooler arrangement you came up with! It has sensible airflow, should by all reason perform REALLY well, and is actually remarkably compact for having to make do with off-the-shelf parts.

[@streetmitch]

I'm pretty sure you are local to my area. I'm a CNC programmer and have access to full size CNC machines. I've always wanted to design and produce my own heatsinks and water blocks. Maybe we can work on something a little more "professional" if you do another project at some point.

[@gusstr20]

I've been trying to find a video on this for months. I made a design for my 5500xt to make it single slot. This helps a lot. Thanks

[@draconightwalker4964]

perfect timing, ive gotta make a new fan shroud for one of my gpus

[@dryster123]

Yes, I was saying "Why not use the drill press"

[@westonbean9674]

To help support the find on the sink you need to use a sacrificial material to use in between the find.. someone like stacks with 3d printer.. it will be messy but will help stabilize the fins so they can be cut.

[@SandwichAirsoft]

this would be an awesome cooling solution for the 690 or titan z and shouldn't require any modification.

[@H1KE]

That is super cool! At a glance it almost looks factory!

[@wultyc]

I had a quite similar project a few weeks ago. I had to make a custom bracket for a noctua nh-l9i to make it fit into my hp proliant microserver gen8 because the original cooler was not handling the new cpu I've put in there

[@Darkk6969]

Yep, I know exactly what you mean. No idea why HP decided to use non-standard location of the mounting holes for the heatsink. So I when I swapped out the Pentium CPU for 4 core Xeon I had to shove a couple of small Noctua fans next to the original heatsink to provide active cooling. It's been like that for three years now without issues. I would have loved to find HP OEM heatpipe cooler for it but eventually I'm going to replace the server with standard parts so I don't have to deal with this kind of nonsense again.

[@Hardware_Hermit]

You might be able to use a carbide burr in your drill press to grind/mill down the fins rather then a hacksaw. Really dig content like this.

[@mundanethings7719]

I've been using SheetCAM for over 10 years and it's great for 2,5D stuff. Free version has 180 line limit for generated code.

[@questionablecommands9423]

Ah! I should've been paying closer attention in Discord. That table saw I see under the CNC would've been able to cut through the fins on the heatsink no problem and would've left you with a nice clean cut.

[@engineerswife]

I just got my k80 running last night, and I noticed from my blower that the rear GPU runs like 15 degrees hotter at full tilt. This is a very tempting thing to do!

[@blainjohnson7777]

Craft, Try and using a very thin double stick tape to hold parts onto the waste board of the CNC. I saw that somewhere and was going to do the same.

[@CraftComputing]

I tested using carpet tape before shooting, and it did alright. Still my main problem was not having much control over feeds and speeds.

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

Your table saw can cut aluminum, and it goes pretty fast.

[@nicholasmistry4954]

The 3018s are not super rigid and have issues machining aluminum - also, try to use free machining aluminum stock for better results. The main problem is that the flutes get gummed up from the swarf from the cut and you get poor results.

[@prashanthb6521]

Loved this episode :)

[@Graham_Rule]

You had me worried with the bottle of Coke in the background but it makes sense I suppose to hold off on the beer until you've finished working with power tools.

[@brenolima7520]

You could've used the backplate too, right? Maybe a few mods would be necessary to fit it, but it might help with cooling.

[@soniclab-cnc]

that little cnc is adorable. my machines take up the better part of my shop they are 7 feet wide by 11 feet long....

[@JHess]

noticed you had a table saw there. could probably have cut some wooden shims to put between those fins to give them some support and cut the chatter.

[@emilekenberg3235]

Very cool project! :) Great Work!

[@KayJay01]

23:28 85C ambient with AC on? That’s quite extreme :P

[@CraftComputing]

-_-

[@ryanblackwell8321]

I love your videos and with your "cloud gaming server" vids, the windows VM vid has inspired me to make my own for my girlfriend, myself, and soon my nefew so that they dont have to buy an overpriced gpu! Keep the content coming and I can't wait!

[@Terablick]

Hello. What CNC machine are you using in this video? You mentioned, it cost just around 300 Dollars? I can't even build one by myself from Aliexpres parts for this price... Thanks.

[@largenlarsen]

And here I was thinking I needed a CNC to make a custom sized cooler!

[@deltadovertime]

I'm thinking these brackets would be a great way to expand the craft computing store :D

[@celuldor]

85C?! Damn you guys have some heat waves over there ;P

[@Raymond6494]

nice job well done

[@yuxianwang3238]

2:04 I thought your pulling out a sword.

[@TechnoLadz]

23:28 “85•C” Damn, how does it get that hot lol

[@colonelangus7535]

You can make more stl files, and run a series of programs in order. That would give you a little more control.

[@jasongooden917]

true. I was thinking just make it by hand

[@NexGen-3D]

Change the fans on those coolers, the ID ones suck, I used one on a mini-itx build and had to swap it for a good Noctua fan, was quieter and cooled better.

[@jb2590]

Keep up the good work! You might want to check into doing a simple 2D toolpath from a DXF file so you can adjust all the parameters like depth of cut. STL is great for 3D printing, not so much on subtractive machining, especially o simple 2.5D geometries. Keep practicing, your CNC skill will improve in no time. Good luck, and thanks for the videos!

[@Desvariosgeek1]

Hey! New to the channel and it is very interesting. Maybe try to use a tripod o friend? Thanks for great content!

[@accckiy]

This was fun and interesting!

[@jb2590]

you should be able easily edit the gcode with a text editor like notepad++ to change the Z axis depth of cut.

[@dbooker3182]

or reorder the cuts. this is a almost daily thing for me

[@MeOrNotMeWhoKnows]

Is it possible to undervolt these M60 GPUs? If it is, then could probably solve most of the overheating problems this way, potentially even without losing much performance. Either with something like MSI Afterburner in Windows, or Maxwell II Bios Tweaker.

[@holski77]

awwww yis great vid!

[@BobHannent]

Heat spreader on the back? For the heatsink filing, couldn't you set the CNC to drive over it very, very slowly? Perhaps having screwed the heatsink to a plywood/MDF board for stability. If you run very slowly, I would expect it to work.

[@camerontgore]

Plus one for the title 👍

[@auroran0]

My first question was, "Where's your beer?"

[@hlee594]

holy shit! this was great Jeff!

[@TheBekker_]

Nifty little CNC mill, what model/brand is that?

[@kitchenbriks3685]

Don't those banks of resistors in the center get really hot too?

[@harrythehandyman]

When I blacklist NV GPU driver in Proxmox, it seems that the Proxmox Shell cannot run nvidia-smi any more. Any suggestions on how to monitor GPU temp? Thanks!

[@greenprotag]

The dual ID cooling CPU coolers are awesome.

[@greenprotag]

Well done on the support and customized parts.

[@electrogaming8121]

Men i have to Built a Custom GPU Cooler for a GTX 1080Ti... Thanks ! You Give me Ideas how to do that :D

[@shadowmist1246]

So what was wrong with the water cooling system that made you question trust?

[@Artemis-zl5cs]

That’s pretty cool.

[@rodhester2166]

maybe using a sheet of stock would have worked out better for the brackets..great video.. thanks for sharing .

[@CraftComputing]

A sheet of 1/16th probably would have been no problem at all. This was what I could find locally though.