I Lost my VTEC!...Honda Limp-Home (+ Pressure Transducer GIVEAWAY!)

[@ForgeKnife]

Ivan thanks for fixing my Honda Element, I was able to get NAPA to give me a refund instead of a replacement part.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great to hear, Ernie! Napa should be ashamed of selling that Dorman junk haha

[@DanielSan-ch7dr]

This Dorman in the USA seems pretty dodgy and probably should stop being sold of they are so unreliable that you don't even get 12mnths use out of something so simple fails out of the box

[@federicovaca5072]

It happent to me also , i ended getting a oem from a junkyard, dorman make it worse, in the same type of engine, oem the best

[@hooptierescue2540]

Great diagnostic as usual. It always blows me away how far some people will travel to get someone competent to work on their car. It doesn't bode well for the industry landscape.

[@teekay_1]

The problem is that we've moved away from a mechanical era to one where you must be able to think abstractly about problems. Thinking abstractly about a problem is a rare skill, and as much as people want to believe they can do it, it's beyond many. The skills are similar to those of a computer programmer debugging a computer program.

[@Auto209]

Or it shows the industry what it’s missing. Now we just need some viewers across the nation to get into high skill diag

[@htownblue11]

NPR KING folks. Ivan is an humble master diagnostician. And he has a passion for teaching / sharing his knowledge. I’ve learned a lot from his methods and approach. If the world was about to explode if we couldn’t get a Volkswagen No crank no start diagnosed, I think as President we should likely call Ivan first…Keep doing what ya do Ivan. Always great to watch the master.

[@elnivekify]

No Dorman parts required. It's awesome to see Ivan go through the troubleshooting steps even though a lot of this is way above my head. It's cool to see a master at work.

[@whatsnewonthemountain]

Purchased my PHAD pressure transducer in April 2021. Have used it as a DIYer for fuel pressure and oil pressure with my Pico. I’ve been tickled each time, thinking how cool that tool is! Thanks Ivan.

[@Walczyk]

Most DIYers aren't rich lol, we're poor. A diyer with a picoscope.... yeah I'm still using a 2ch hantek, dmm, and test light

[@scrappy7571]

Excellent video! As an Element owner, I know all too well about VTEC codes. I linked this to Element Owners forum, so it will help many folks there. Fortunately my '07 has been trouble free, but years ago I added dielectric lube to all the underhood electrical connector pins as preventative maintenance.

[@r.weaver3769]

I would love to own one of your PT, but I'm sure there are so many more who could put it to far better use than I could being a disabled tech, I have to pick my battles and sometimes farm out jobs that I would have easily knocked out just a few years ago. Just another over qualified, physically challenged DIYer now. Good video. I love dielectric grease, fixed many issues. Once had a similar problem, customer stated a solenoid would need to be replaced yearly, I fixed with DG, and gained a life long customer. Gotta love them No Parts Required...

[@robbflynn4325]

Fantastic diagnosis! One big takeaway from your videos is to never rely on non OEM, especially if they are relatively complex in nature. My son's 2003 Accord has the same engine so especially interesting to see this. He had a problem with the engine bucking at higher RPM's. Auto-zone did the free diagnostic, they recommended changing the oil and filter which solved the problem. The problem was related to the operation of some kind of VTEC pressure switch. All this obviously cost the customer a lot in fuel and time, but going to you works out cheaper than the dealership or anyone else for that matter, because you always get to the bottom of the problem first time round, well most of the time, lol!

[@nickmalone3143]

Wait ... car bucks ...change oil and filter...is that really a fix ?

[@robbflynn4325]

@@nickmalone3143 yeah, Autozone said it was a common problem and relates to the VTEC pressure switch. I learned that low or dirty oil can cause it not to operate properly through lack of oil pressure. The diagnostic print out recommended changing the engine oil and filter, if problem persists then replace the VTEC switch. Changed oil and filter only, one year later car still runs great. I was really worried at the time as we had only just purchased the car so I was relieved it was such an easy fix.

[@Ram14250]

Always good to see a Honda live on! :-) No parts required as a bonus! Ivan … impressive as always. thanks for the great video!

[@willemstreutgers1154]

As i live in a very humid country(the Netherlands) my favorite solution is using Vaseline(Petroleum jelly) to avoid "green crusties"" .in and on electric connections. It works for years.

[@Nudnik1]

Stabilant 22 and anti corrosion grease we use near salt water on marine engines in NY .

[@tonyfox1434]

Damn your good! You remind me of myself when I was a shop foreman at BMW hundreds of years ago. ha ha , Basics, basics,basics I would shout at the poor apprentices . I like your approach to the problems and what we could have done with your knowledge and equipment in the early 80's! Keep up the good work, retired now but watch everyone of your video's!Thanks O ya as you say , aftermarket parts are almost always unreliable.

[@AP9311]

Dorman strikes again!! All that oem was needed a clean up and put back again! It's great to see the owners hang out and learn something in your process! This is awesome video to see your transducer in action! Enjoyed every bit of the video!!

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

I reported it. See if it helped in a day or two. Hate those guys. lol

[@nickmalone3143]

Dorman = cheap chinese crap

[@AP9311]

@@JimmyMakingitwork hate people who copies my comment. Grrr!

[@baxrok2.]

Methodical and efficient. Well done Ivan!

[@djb4069]

So nice of the wife to send you a thank you car

[@duanebuck193]

It's interesting (and sad) that Dorman has so many issues, yet on a few other items they are the rock stars (I have a 3.2 Jeep with the oil cooler housing issues), and for Eric O they stepped up to the plate to fix something that wasn't even theirs. Consistency obviously isn't one of their goals! This does reinforce your "powers and grounds" logic in that connectors are part of that loop and should be looked at as well. Nice job, Ivan!!

[@blueskiesmobileauto4253]

Suuuper interesting diagnosis and explanation of how this system works. 👍👍

[@mikefoehr235]

Ivan, that guys wife sent you a personalized thank you. It illustrates beautifully if you give a customer great service you will get rewards and repeat business and most important, word of mouth business. I laughed when you said that Doorman part was a 50 cent made in China part. That is the sad truth.

[@craiggoodwin9704]

Ivan, my Sunday morning coffee always tastes better while taking in one of your video's! Watching a Super Bowl Champ like you gets us ready for viewing other events this day. Thanks for Sharing!

[@miket1322]

Hi Ivan, I have several old Hondas with VTEC. What suprised me was how the VTEC pressure switch opened at about 20 psi. The spec for my old '97 B18C1 is that the switch opens around 50 psi. The test is to rev the motor to over 5,000 rpm for the switch to open. The Element is lower revving but the switch (Dorman), as you determined, was not working properly since it appears to be an incorrect switch for this purpose. The VTEC pressure switches are 5 X the cost than a regular oil pressure switch (ie, they are not the same). There was a Honda Service News article from April 2002 (found on my old desktop) that said "oil pressure should immediately turn off the the VTEC oil pressure switch. But if the switch stays on (because of low oil pressure), the ECM orders fuel cut off and shuts off the fuel injectors. Normally the ECM turns on the MIL and sets DTC 1259 (VTEC system malfunction). But if the oil pressure switch turn off BEFORE the ECM sets the DTC, the engine hesitates and then runs normally" Not sure if this last part is relevant but any oil restriction can cause a problem. So I guess it was a combo problem of a bad contact on the original switch followed by replacement with a part with the incorrect switch.

[@weldingjunkie]

Awesome story these are the best videos and outcomes that earn loyalty. Customer for life. Thanks for sharing Ivan.

[@fieldsofomagh]

After market introduces faults at a premium price. Buy trash, live with trash. Knowledge is priceless but not applied, is worthless. Loved the video and a lovely acknowledgement from a decent lady.

[@fieldsofomagh]

Tried contacting the number above with no joy so far ?

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

Great job tracking down another intermittent electrical problem! I continue to learn so much about troubleshooting electrical problems by watching PHAD videos - thank you! I believe those of us who don't have access to expensive electrical diagnostic tools should consider an OEM replacement engine wiring harness. Hear me out: on my son's 2002 Honda Civic, I chased an intermittent "limp home" problem for a year with a crankshaft position sensor DTC. Despite having replaced both the sensor and the connector+pigtail, the problem persisted. Long story short, for $300 I replaced the engine wiring harness, and the car has been rock solid for several months now. In the larger scheme of things, $300 for wiring integrity peace of mind isn't all that much.

[@bernardaflores1720]

The initial problem could been caused by corrosion on a grounding point. Consider doing the big 3 upgrades and replaced the ELD/ electrical load detector fuse box.

[@wadesnider5254]

Dude. I swear you were describing my exact scenario. I have been to the dealership multiple times. Replaced the housing multiple times. Searched countless forums. None talked about the corrosion. Cleaned it up and everything is smooth. Thank you!

[@outofthinair1]

As always a STELLAR diagnosis .I've wanted to learn more about how the VTEC system works on the L4. Your explanation and demonstration of the principals of operation were outstanding thanks for sharing Ivan !

[@somerandomguy3868]

Great job Ivan, if doorman would have some quality control they'd be a unstoppable global juggernaut and everyone would insist on their replacement parts

[@TreyCook21]

Instead they've become the unstoppable global juggernaut that nobody can avoid. Either way, they win.

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Ivan good find! Tip: Also use a Acid Brush to agitate the Deoxit around the corroded pins. Rinse, blow out, and repeat as necessary. Dielectric grease is almost mandatory as those o-rings in the connectors start to fail with age.

[@kb2ehj]

Really good video. Been fighting it's sister code the P2647. Two years ago I got one of the two codes and went a replaced the the whole solenoid and housing problem went away for two years and just returned. Two years ago we discovered the front filter had a bunch of crude in the screen and after changing it the code went away but we kept the solenoid in place (not gone back to the original). For the last 3 weeks I've been fighting this. When it started no matter what I did could it get the code to reset. Watched a few videos and somebody had mentioned the symptoms I was having including high oil loss, so that sent me down the bath of changing the PCV valve which was slam full of crude. So after changing that if the p2647 code came on and I drove for roughly 15 miles, turned off the car and then back on it would not return. After watching this video it sent me down the path of checking the connectors for crude and i have cleaner on order but in the meantime I ran a q-tip in and around it and pulled a bunch of crude from it. Well driving in this morning ..... no error codes and my little dash scan gauge was reporting an almost solid 13.7 volts before it was fluctuating 13.4-13.6 volts. Think this video might have solved my P2647 error....Thank you!!

[@williamwhite5407]

Just found your channel today while looking up information on Mahindra 6110 diesel tractor won't start. Learning from your videos . Thank you . God Bless !!!

[@HotRod-wv4vm]

I had the same issue at around the same mileage. I too serviced my Honda Element at the dealership with synthetic. I changed the vtec solenoid and the problem went away. I now have 210,900 miles on it and no issues.

[@mattfoley6082]

I have a 2003 Element that's having intermittent VTEC problem. I changed the oil, removed the VTEC solenoid assembly, cleaned and reinstalled. Still intermittent. I will check the terminals again and clean thoroughly. Many Element owners experience this problem. Very hard to pin down the cause. I like how you explained your thinking and showed the live data.

[@mattfoley6082]

Update: Problem cleared on its own with no further action. Not sure why. Problem lasted perhaps 50 miles after oil change then cleared.

[@aldrinalmario1513]

Another great diagnosis and NPR fix Ivan! Agree that sub par components may throw you off in loop in diagnosing a problem since you think that said component is "new".. good thing deoxit and dielectric grease solved this issue. Thanks again for taking us along. Cheers!

[@raymondreiff8170]

I have had a similar problem with a 2005 Honda civic 1.7l crankshaft position-speed sensor, I found the engine harness plug defective and installed a new sensor after finding this very green connections, I personally think someone allowed coolant to get in when the timing belt and water pump were replaced👍, This caused a hot no starting problem randomly, After the repairs I haven't had a problem over 5 years now

[@martinzeddy]

Ivan the genius strikes again!! It must be overwhelming as an owner to watch the diagnostic process . . . with full confidence that resolution awaits!! In this case, the owner must have given a nice tip . . . looks like Ivan finally paid for a haircut lol

[@mkman164]

One of the best conductive greases is NO-OX-ID. 2oz. jar on Ebay is about $10. Its electrically conductive and eliminates corrosion. Also can be used on audio equipment, etc. You only need apply a very small amount, so 2oz. goes a long way.

[@byondead]

This is awesome. I had the same issue on a 2002 CRV, same engine and codes. I would be driving home after a good drive and would hit that limp mode. But it would only do it when it was really cold out. Ended up giving the truck to my dad and he mentioned it never happened to him. But I'll know what to look for if it does

[@jaygold4467]

Ivan, you are brilliant. Very high intellect. Bravo!

[@eldonerc2524]

Did you check the oil level? When the VTEC opens it fills the valve train an can lower the oil level, especially under acceleration when the oil moves away from the pump. That's why the pressure switch is there to deactivate VTEC if low oil pressure. It might just need another half a quart.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yes of course that was check #1 :)

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

Did you watch the video? He fixed the problem. What are you even talking about.

[@curtgirardin6093]

Hi Ivan, I had the exact same issue on my 2010 Element a couple years ago. It would particularly happen when the roads were wet. The weather-pack seal in the connector at the end of the wire had deteriorated at was letting moisture inside the connector, shorting the wires togethet. I found a connector with a good weatherpack seal at the salvage yatd and replaced it, using a small screwdriver to take it apart. I also covered the internal pins with dielectric grease for good measure, and slathered dielectric grease around the weatherpack seal where the wires entered the connector. Problem solved. I have a couple pico captures with notes explaining how I came to the conclusion of shorted connector if you'd like to see them.

[@tonytopbatz]

Great job man! I admire the way you diagnose a car and record it at the same time. That’s kills !!

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

Yeah, seeing the real time problem solving process is a great way of teaching people how to think about what they're doing.

[@keithanderson7007]

Ivan great work there on something that probably would have sent many mechanics reeling and eventually giving up! Amazing how so little corrosion can affect the circuit and cause problems. One has to wonder, how does this Dorman company stay in business with their superior quality control? Onto your tranducer: Timing is always the essence of life. I just bought Transducer No. 98. I had it lined up to use yesterday, except I forgot that I needed to load the conversion files into my Pico software and was out of the range of wifi. Ended up using a standard compression gauge to get the timing roughed in on a no parts repair for a 1976 - 515 Ford Tractor that had part of the aluminum distributor housing flake away so that the vacuum advance would no longer stay in place. Took a chance on welding an aluminum patch around the vacuum advance, which worked perfectly. Once I cleaned up the weld it was hard to tell at a glance what the initial issue was and the advance is working perfectly. Anyway, now I cant wait to try it out on the next job. Your channel has given me inspiration to look at repair differently and find ways, within reason, to repair things without having to buy parts. Thank you!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks for the comment Keith! You can use it on the regular voltage scale without the custom scales too :)

[@keithanderson7007]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I knew that too but I wanted to see it in its glory. Ivan I got a whats app notification from this thread, is that you or is that some sort of automated thing.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@keithanderson7007 SPAMBOT lol

[@Nudnik1]

Ivan check out " Stabilant 22" liquid which increases conductivity used in Aircraft avionics and marine radar. NAPA has it $70 for tiny bottle. It is not dielectric which actually decreases conduction. Excellent work.

[@bernardaflores1720]

I got the same engine on my 2004 CRV and please note following. Right behind the power steering pump, plate w/ a screen that needs to change. At the same time do the PCV valve that is just below it. In the fuse box, you going to find the ELD/ electrical load detector which causes of kinds of gremlins on the electrical system. This cars are prone to rust so at some point, I need to clean or replace all the grounds on the car. There is something call the big 3 upgrades that can be done. The product that you are about to received will be ideal for this application.

[@pistamessi]

that old multimeter is *aesthetic* i love it

[@pingpong9656]

To do that diagnosis while the customer watches over you is even more impressive.

[@electrolineservicegreece8267]

Ivan ... i got No 32 PHAD pressure set working to at the shop dayli and i love it !! Thanks for the video Ivan

[@dustcommander100]

So the original problem was at least partly due to a very high impedance ECU input, with the green crusties providing an alternative "low enough impedance" path when the switch opened.... Good catch!

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

It's really weird to use 12 volts, and ONE milliamp as a high/low signal. I'm no expert, but that just seems odd to me.

[@111-c7x2t]

I do love how the scanner identifies a Honda Element as a truck

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

LOL, it's basically a Civic with a van body. And part time AWD.

[@JoesAutoElectric]

Great video Ivan. As always methodical approach to find the solution. Love it brother.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Joe! The oil pressure test was pretty neat, definitely proved the Dorman oil switch was JUNK!

[@VashthStampeede]

In my personal experience, I used dielectric grease on the headlight connectors of my truck. I also used it on the MAF sensor for my car. One day, I needed a high amp test light and pulled a headlight from my truck. The contacts were green and crusty. Being concerned, I pulled the connector off of my car's MAF sensor and it was green and crusty too. I live in a dry climate, so the only thing in common was the dielectric grease I had applied to both vehicle's connectors. Now, I might put dielectric grease on the weatherpak seal, but never on the metal contacts. Dielectric grease is supposed to be inert and safe, but now I know that it is not.

[@Stick1370]

Just so happens, my 2011 started having the same problem. I noticed that it seemed to do it after being driven for a while in the rain. After watching your vid, I waited until it happened again and pulled the plug off the pressure switch. It was wet underneath. Deoxit, dielectric grease, and a little liquid tape on the weather pack. Hopefully that will be the end of that problem.

[@zx8401ztv]

Oh dear, double trouble lol. it's a shame that most copy parts are rubbish. Well done ivan, you have saved the day again. 😀 Your high quality pressure sensors, what a handy gift to give someone 😀.

[@drewbenefield2001]

@Telegram @IvanTemnykh scammer

[@boilertech44]

Great video Ivan, I was thinking it had to be the PCM not seeing the signal, but you proved me wrong. Thanks for sharing.

[@stevewhite3424]

Remember the simple rule, it is almost never, ever the PCM :)

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

@@stevewhite3424 The only time I ever had a problem with a Honda PCM was when the connector got wet. I blew it out like a Nintendo game and never had a problem again.

[@williamwhite9767]

Great diag! No parts required again! You are amazing!

[@reweydewy]

I've personally had a 2003 accord 2.4 and a 2008 crv 2.4 throw this exact code due to aftermarket oil filters. Vtec solenoid didn't fix them but an oil and filter change did

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

There are several things which can cause this code, which is why it's such a pain to fix. Ivan took the time to diagnose EXACTLY what the problem was for this specific car, and then fixed it very inexpensively. That really makes sense, when it could be a dozen different possibilities. Spend your efforts on correct diagnosis, not buying $1,500 worth of random parts that never end up fixing the issue.

[@dougkelley1266]

Love all your videos. They are very educational and you have amazing knowledge and experience for modern day car repairs.

[@charleshenshaw9099]

Very interesting case study. Corrosion strikes again.

[@gianfrancoa]

You need to talk to Eric O he has an indsider within Dornan that will make sure all your Dorman problems go away. 😂😂

[@automotivated5934]

I still need one desperately!! I’ll buy one from you as soon as I can. Great lessons learned as always!

[@lonwillis783]

WOW JUST LIKE MINE I BOUGHT A 2003 HONDA ELEMENT SAME COLOR! 👍😁 New too.

[@scottthomson120]

Awesome diag Ivan! Water intrusion from the windshield cowl?...If the male pins on the OEM sensor were corroded, the harness connector will have corrosion too. Perhaps the owner should cobble together a rain shield/water diverter for that connector (if it truly is water dripping from the cowl)

[@jamesbruno5896]

Very cool diagnosis Ivan!

[@CKBrutus]

Ivan strikes again. That’s one hellava video. Another job well done. Damn Dorman lol

[@ZAMBER88]

Good to clean little filter on front of the head behind steering pump on two screws 10mm

[@deweycheatem1474]

Great job on this, intermittent ones the worst. One MA of sinking current is just plain bad engineering. A little like proper wetting currents in relay logic, basically asking for problems. You definitely understand the nature of impedance in a circuit.

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

One milliamp does seem odd... I can't say, but I doubt that's how it was originally designed.

[@kastooMcFry]

Dorman can send you down a dark alley with a butter knife. It is all just horrible junk. I've used your pressure transducers a couple of times now. They are invaluable in certain situations and recommend anyone getting one. Thanks, Ivan.

[@keltecshooter]

Top questions for customers 1 - what parts were thrown at it ? 2 - are they Dorman ?

[@blakeworsham3026]

A fresh oil change and quality oil filter is always recommended as well. Low quality oil filters and dirty oil can cause problems with this system and have you chasing your tail.

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

Instead of throwing out random guesses, this guy diagnosed the exact problem and fixed it. Did you even watch?

[@jacobchick2197]

Thanks for the case study, this will help my 2004 CRV!

[@belowme4927]

THE THANK YOU CARD WAS WORTH MORE THAN THE FIX

[@billziegmond4943]

I have a PHAD transducer kit. When I need to check pressures it's the way to go. Sunday coffee and a PHAD video. Great day. BTW Ivan Monday is Valentines Day don't put yourself in the dog house my friend.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hey Bill! Haha I'll be out delivering flowers for the local flower shop tomorrow, doing my best to please the ladies ;)

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

Seems like Josh and A are on the same page...in the comments. Great video as usual Ivan!

[@joeyager5820]

I can't believe they use one millamp good job it's hard to find good mechanics not part changers

[@HelgatheHorriblez]

My 03 Element has a variety of issues… this is just the newest one. It started happening after my tune up and replacing the throttle body because the nipples rotted off. I am going to have my guy take a look at this for me and see if this is what is happening to mine. If not… I may have to make the 5 hour drive from where I am in NY to you for help. I wonder if you’d be able to solve the issues with my instrument cluster lights working intermittently as well as radio display- while these are less pressing since I’ve lived like this for 6 years… I am now wondering if the wiring is the problem- but nobody around here does diagnostics like this- this is how I do diagnostic in the lab I work in. It always amazes me that more people aren’t fixing vehicles this way- I’m SO over the guess and replace which ends up costing me thousands and never fixing the problem. 😢 I just wanna keep my E on the road as long as possible. Honda isn’t giving any indication that they will be bringing them back and I need mine for my hobbies. 😢

[@montestu5502]

Did you clean the plug side also? I would think that it is corroded too. That could be why the replacement part worked for a month.

[@vwbusguy1020]

Love watching and have repaired a few things learning from you thank you so much.

[@kenfromsilverdale5675]

Garbage in equals Garbage out, always has always will! OEM ONLY!

[@alrifainidal]

awesome diagnostic reliant man. i like watching your video

[@Paramount531]

Excellent video! As always I learn something even though most of the diagnostics go over my head. Today's knowledge: Never trust Dorman!

[@e.v.a.l.s]

oh man good on you for the giveaway. i'd love to try and gamble for the freebie but i'm poor. i'll buy the tool from you someday when i manage to save up.

[@e.v.a.l.s]

​ @Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics this looks suspect. should i do it??

[@madmike214]

I have this kit, works great!

[@volvo09]

Love the old pocket multimeter!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Beckman Industrial made in JAPAN! 30 years old and going strong!

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Americans taught the Japanese how to make things, after the war... and boy howdy did they learn good.

[@CubasAutomotive]

After hearing the heater in person, and now on video, it's not as bad as you think, at least not while viewing on the phone. Not distracting, I can hear you and the customer clearly. Now back to the video.... 😅😅😬

[@CubasAutomotive]

Man! I am fascinated by all the methods you come up with to test things. Fantastic diag, as always. Scope doesn't lie. I'm also amazed by what low amount of current that flows through that sense circuit. Extremely sensitive. I love it when I learn from your jobs. Stay well my friend! 😄🤗

[@CubasAutomotive]

Reach out to me if you still have the old switch. I know ppl at Dorman interested in knowing their failures in effort to fix their horrid reputation as well as improve their parts. Too little too late, but I get what some of these guys want to do.

[@lvsqcsl]

Dorman strikes again? Great video!

[@dealerauctionnightmare4689]

My daughter's CR-V is doing the same thing. I've done all the testing possible. I have no crusties, I'm thinking bad (new) switch or pin fitment issue.

[@VedafoneYT]

Nice work Ivan

[@Kntryhart]

Lordy...a 10-hour drive for green-crusty's? Glad the car is repaired!

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

It makes sense for codes such as P2646, which could be a dozen different things. What is your plan? Go to the dealer and buy random parts that never end up solving anything? It's far better to drive to a real mechanic who will actually take time to exactly diagnose the real problem and solve it once and for all. If it's something simple, and obvious... just fix it yourself.

[@johninerie9251]

Nice repair

[@mikegudenkauf6125]

Would it also be a good idea to check the tension of the terminals on the female side of the connection?

[@ivandrago2557]

Excellent job as always, how were you sure that mechanical part of the switch didn't cause this occasionally fault.

[@volvo09]

Very nice! Only problem I have is you said the dorman pressure switch was made in China for .50c... That's not true... It was .05c 😆

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

Fifty cents today was 5 cents, back in your times.

[@volvo09]

@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 it was a joke, I was calling the part even cheaper than Ivan was.

[@neilmurphy845]

Always use OEM parts when working on electrical problems

[@hamham4547]

Great job Ivan, very instructive video, your follower from Algeria

[@jonnycando]

I imagine in the snow belt corrosion is a given….somewhere there are going to be green crusties!

[@DonLemelin]

Awesome video. We have a race car that due to a modified oil pan is losing oil pressure in a very long left hand turn and when we attempt to go to V-tec it puts the car into limp mode. Until we resolve the issue with the pan can you confirm that if I disconnect the oil pressure sensor and run a wire from the blue/black to the brwn/yellow on the switch that I'll essentially bypass the oil pressure sensor avoiding limp mode? I of course assume all liability for running the car with low oil pressure :) Thanks

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

Great idea. I have no idea if it will work, but it sounds like you're thinking about it the right way. Cut out the middle man of the solenoid turning on a switch. Hell, while you're at it, disable VTEC altogether and just go with a badass cam. VTEC is for increasing MPG. You don't need that on a 'race car'.

[@atxjax1]

I'd be curious to see what the pigtail connector pins look like. They probably have some corrosion on them also.

[@gillgetter3004]

Yay NPR what contact cleaner is your fav. I’m low been using CRC is that good?

[@agmc4me]

Auction car claiming known good maintenance? Auction cars are not usually a diamond in the rough. Repos. Great diagnosis Ivan

[@ForgeKnife]

I should have said good maintenance since I bought the car. Unknown before.

[@hxhdfjifzirstc894]

@@ForgeKnife Just fix it, as needed. An Element can last forever, especially if you have a good mechanic like this guy. And spare engines are cheap and plentiful, if it ever gets to that point. That's why I bought one.

[@pwirg]

This is off the point a little bit, but I am impressed with the thinktool scanner you have been using. I am trying to decide between a Launch and Thinktool scanner. Do you recommend either?

[@vinces8974]

How does Dorman stay in business? Great work Ivan!

[@jameswood9764]

Did you clean the connector plug also? Baa baa fluid film?!