I'm calling it... House Wrap is DEAD

[@ts-handyman]

For those concerned about the nails through Zip sheathing, how do they fasten their house wrap?

[@buildshow]

Totally!

[@SpecialKthx]

@@buildshow I think house wrap is still good in northen place like here in quebec, we need the wall to breath with the outside

[@Davey768]

We fasten our house wrap where our strips for rain screen is gonna be, leading to no exposed fasteners.

[@RustyGotBanned]

Plastic cap nails, which have a gasket that seals the paper to the wall. On Zip, you can have a ton of over or underdriven nails that are far more susceptible than the plastic caps. Again, it all boils down to the installer and how well they are trained. All systems work if installed properly.

[@HistoricHomePlans]

@@SpecialKthx Of course there are some housewraps that may be vapor impermeable, but they are not the norm. It is my understanding that there is little to no difference in terms of vapor permeability between housewraps like Tyvek and Zip sheathing. "Breathing", if necessary, must only pertain to vapor, not air, especially in a cold climate. You don't want your wall allowing the passage of air but that will carry moisture into all the areas where it will do the most damage when it cools. I encourage you to look into this much more. You might start with the articles by Joe Lstiburek, if you haven't read his work already.

[@toddr3644]

Just retrofitted my house and used Prosoco Fast Flash on all of the OSB seams, doing that with a layer of Tyvek over it, and then 3 inches of Rockwool. Heating costs have dropped 80 to 90% in zone 6. Much better siding now, too. Did a lot of it after 5 when the contractors were gone for the day. Took a lot of that from Matt. Thanks!

[@KennyFlagg]

What roof style you have? I have an incredibly leaky attic lid with no duct work but need a new roof. Thinking of sealing the original deck, 6” of rigid insulation, then metal with furring strips for venting. This over-roof design seems legit, but more certainly more work.

[@saophaixoan7861]

It's great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan's kzbin.infoUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.

[@damham5689]

I'd be interested to see blower door test done on a house 5 or more years after its original test to see if it stays tight ..

[@timbehrens9678]

Dunno about the American wood framed houses, but German low energy houses keep their airtightness for nearly 20 years and counting. Given how insanely expensive to heat a house in Germany is, they take a very close look at their heating/electricity bills.

[@BK-dq5yk]

@@timbehrens9678 In 1965-68 RAF Wildenrath Germany base housing had a coal furnace downstairs that had some type of convection delivery through ducts and vents. I don't recall an electric blower. The hot water heater, we called "the bomb", was in the kitchen and used charcoal bricks or briquettes (whatever was delivered and dumped into the coal chute to the basement) for a fire in the base of the water heater. Fun times. I was age 7 to 10. My dad was US Air Force. I had to separate the bricks from the coal and stack them and keep the coal pail filled at the top of the basement stairs. No cooling in the summer.

[@wjthehomebuilder]

That's a good idea!

[@luke9822]

Are you thinking there's a possible defect in the material, or in the structural engineering that would cause movement or separation in the WRB? If the material is the question, I'm sure this is all being tested and can be extrapolated to the same environment. If the engineering or application is a concern, you'd likely see other signs of movement, like cracks in sealant, etc. That said, it never hurts to check it again down the road for science, if someone wants to pay for it.

[@RustyGotBanned]

If they rolled the tape properly, I'm positive it will test just as good as Day 1. If they didn't roll the tape, I could foresee complete failure of the system.

[@Junior-zf5ed]

I'm a fire inspector in my city and get to see alot of new construction. Since watching your channel I have learned so much. It's funny when I see new homes under construction now with tyvek wrap falling down because it's not even put up correct I cringe, especially since these homes are selling for $350K and up

[@Off-Grid]

It rarely seems to be installed correctly

[@MrTexasDan]

How do you think those same "craftsmen" would do with Zip tape and liquid flash?

[@Off-Grid]

@@MrTexasDan liquid flashing more than the tape. The tape really isn't that great

[@cranberryeater7459]

What kind of a fire inspector uses the word “cringe”; must be a trendy millennial ?

[@raystraining3206]

DR Horton

[@williammorris3303]

It’s nice to see someone building houses right. It has been a real long time since I’ve seen anyone even try. Most home builders are just trying to get them built fast with very little attention to doing it right. Most new homes have issues right away

[@mrtopcat2]

I have seen this type of taping in so many videos already and it looks great when installed. But I have been always wondering how many years the adhesive will last.

[@RustyGotBanned]

A long, long time. They have done testing in TX where they have left the Zip panels and tape exposed for 10 years with no signs of deterioration. Leave a housewrap exposed for just one year and see how it holds up.

[@Tjocksnorriss]

@@RustyGotBanned Thats exposed, when hidden behind a wall it will last alot longer.

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

Basically forever. It isn't really tape, it's more like glue, and very high quality glue at that. Zip is a much better and more resilient system than standard Housewraps.

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

@@RustyGotBanned Do you have a link to this testing? I would really like to see it.

[@bertruttan129]

@@Bob_Lob_Law kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6K4n4qum7yjp9E

[@raulcrod]

Good point matt.. I thought it was interesting that you said air tightening is the most important thing.. it very well may be but I've become a huge fan of radiant barrier lately... Had a new house built in 2016 I won't mention the builder in Texas but it was basically wrapped in a foam board with a radiant barrier foil face.. I first thought wtf was I buying but after the wrap it was fully bricked no siding anywhere.. this was was close to 3000 sq ft 2 story with all electric everything, furnace, 2 boilers etc.. and I seen bills as low as 40 dollars some months, keep in mind I had zero gas in the house, all electric stove and all... Blew my mind a house that big was that efficient especially because I highly doubt it was air tight as the brick has weep holes all over and the foam wrap was damaged in many spots I witnessed it myself lol but after recently researching and adding radiant barrier to my now 90 yr old homes attic and feeling the difference and seeing the 10 dollars a week savings I now realize the brick home had an inch or so air space between the brick and foam foil that made it one huge effective radiant barrier and air leakage didn't matter as much.. def a different approach but extremely effective.. would love to hear your thoughts on this matt

[@ktm3850]

In my dream home I would definitely use ZIP. My exterior would be 80% stone. I am so sick and tired of looking at vinyl siding.

[@srt4b]

Stucco? Wood?

[@0Fidel0]

How about building houses with brick so you don't have to worry about any of that crap?

[@srt4b]

@@0Fidel0 You still have to frame the house sir. Brick is merely a facade that sits in front of the structure be it wood, steel, CMU, etc.

[@MrJramirex]

Back when OSB prices were normal it made no sense to use house wrap over Zip system. Right now wood suppliers are ripping people off with their ridiculous prices so people will go to whatever is affordable.

[@mistere5857]

That's a bad call. Sacrificing the current for the future. House wrap with OSB will almost never get replaced throughout the life of the house

[@baxt1412]

@@mistere5857 are you saying the zip system isn’t going to last?

[@mistere5857]

@@baxt1412 no I'm saying the opposite. Zip wont need to be replaced, but house wrap will, but almost no one ever does because of the work involved with that

[@valkyriefrost5301]

From a price perspective, 7/16 OBS + cheap Tyvek will run ~$32 retail. 7/16 OBS + Vycor peel & stick will run ~$52 retail. 7/16 Zip runs about ~$42 retail. Your costs may very by region and discounts, but you get the idea. If you want a good installation, Zip can be faster, better, cheaper, as long as you get the details right. If you're just building as fast and as cheap as possible, which is what I see in my area all to often, you'll want to use the cheapest house wrap you can lay your hands on.

[@brettknoss486]

Prices for everything are going up because of inflation. But, wood prices are due to labor demands at mills, and changesyodemand because of covid, while eood has crashed from it's peak. One option is to hold off on new construction.

[@dannyh.7490]

The home we purchased in Utah was built in 2006 has exterior siding of OSB covered with Vinyl lap siding . Upon inspection by myself I discovered that there is no vapor barrier wrap whatsoever. I’m presuming that the codes were either lax at this time or the builder just got away with this error. I even contacted the inspection service hired by the realtor and asked why they didn’t catch this . They said that they don’t check for this but may now start since there are a lot of homes with vinyl siding and it’s easy to check for . My insurance Co .said that if we ever have problems with moisture damage that they would cover the costs of repairs.

[@daniellebonhoure5196]

Because it's not required and there is no code for it. Of course logically it's much better to have it but it's not a necessity. Many homeowners get new siding put on without it. Either because they don't think it's necessary or don't want to spend the money. Likely if you purchased a home from a previous owner they opted not to get a house wrap when they had the vinyl siding applied. In my opinion it should be a necessity if you can afford it. I'm just saying as far as building requirements there is no law or code requiring it.

[@keving4304]

Issue I see here in Michigan, house wrap installed, 2-4 months before exterior siding. Performance of house wrap degrades with time left to the elements. But it has house wrap per code.

[@NeilStansbury]

House wrap seems to be a pretty low level WRB as far as I can tell. We used Pro Clima's Solitex, which is a thick fabric with very good tear resistance, and is super easy to detail around doors/windows/services etc using stretch-tapes and not a staple or nail in sight! We had no problem with contractors puncturing holes in that, but we had no end of problems with our internal airtight fabric being punctured by trades. The problem with the Zip system appears to be that any failed flashing or tape installation and the water gets stuck in the OSB, with the vapour *impermeable* Zip tape then preventing it drying out.

[@MrBaconis]

Unless Huber starts making a house wrap and does a sponsored video I guess. Maybe show some properly installed house wrap?? Anyway, I know you got to make a living, I just find huckster-ism so unpleasant.

[@marlinweekley51]

Agree but America runs on hucksterism 🤪

[@jordanlip112]

Comes down to attention to detail. House wrap can be great if all the details are paid attention too. For example using enough cap staples vs just using staples. Each brand of house wrap has their own flashing tapes as well. Including flex/stretch tapes that perferm well with their products. It's all in the install details and the product will perform as expected. Either way house wrap and zip and weatherlogic are all great products........installed correctly

[@kevinintheusa8984]

I looked at ZIP on a remodel and had to go with Tyvek due to the high cost and lumber cost was killing us too. These crazy COVID prices will keep Tyvek going for a long while.

[@User-pb8pd]

I used Tyvek then xps on top of that. Everything was taped and wrapped. Totally air tight. Not that difficult. I didn't go for the zip because I didn't want to spend more money and it is easier to cut foam. Taping everything with tyvek tape and flashing tape I have a super tight house.

[@onlyscience7120]

Try the 3M All Weather Flashing Tape, best tape in the world.

[@User-pb8pd]

@@onlyscience7120 I believe it. But most of the tapes like tyvek ain't coming off either. I used caps and also capped roofing nails for the windows.

[@wjthehomebuilder]

I have got houses finished at 1.5 ACH with regular house wrap. But I would totally agree that ZIP is a better system. Mainly because with ZIP you can get ZIP R. (My personal favorite!)

[@123mjolie]

What kind of house wrap are you using ?

[@wjthehomebuilder]

@@123mjolie Tyvek or similar.

[@theoneaboveall8625]

Funny how now they think tape is the best thing ..idiots.

[@wjthehomebuilder]

@@theoneaboveall8625 It's way easier to get there with Zip. My only point was it's possible to get tight (but probably not passive house tight) with regular ol house wrap.

[@pieorion883]

@@theoneaboveall8625 what would you use?

[@jhornett]

Alternative? Tape the standard plywood or OSB sheathing to create an air barrier, then apply a house wrap and waterproofing detailing.

[@huntera123]

Excellent point I wonder if Z flashing could work?

[@jhornett]

@@huntera123 yeah flashings can be integrated with this approach. Plus there are loads of good tapes that can be used.

[@pterafirma]

Exactly. Sheath w/ 3/4" CDX, seal the joints _and_ all penetrations _before_ covering with lapped 30# bldg felt. Rain-screen clad around that, and it'll last a long-ass time.

[@dannymotovlogs4254]

i did this to mine

[@flyinpolack6633]

I have used both systems. If it didn't need tape the zipwall might be worth it, but at $30/roll + the sheets being double the price of regular sheathing it is not economical at all. Not to mention it takes me longer to tape a house than it does to tyvek it. I still use house wrap unless a customer doesn't mind paying the difference and has to have it. The "waterproof" aspect of it doesn't mean a thing. Once the house is sided it will NEVER be wet unless the builder effed up...

[@amv_pure]

The flashing installed correctly is vital.

[@hulkhuggett]

Thanks for the input!

[@GForceFitness1]

Your comment, "Once the house is sided it will NEVER be wet unless the builder effed up," is not true. All cladding (no matter what's used) will have some leakage.

[@SubaruWRXStiYamahaR6-AllGone]

Any chance we will be able to see how you would work on a remodel? Love the new homes, but there are a ton of crappy houses out there that need upgrading.

[@dosadoodle]

We're planning to buy an older home and do dramatic improvements on the energy efficiency side. I'd love to see a series on this topic to understand options, even if they are in a different climate zone it generates new ideas.

[@wkobayashim]

He bought a crappy home. Ended up tearing it down, but got a lot of videos before that

[@odyoddeller]

Still see a lot of guys with that transition at the bottom from concrete to zip sheeting… I set my wall back and have my zip come out flush with the concrete and have my facade go down an inch over the concrere

[@isaacbeckel2044]

Yeah it's really not that hard to get house wrap with peel and stick on window and door openings right. I definitely like the zip system but to say that housewrap is really complex and difficult to install properly isn't true. Think like water and take your time installing it and the housewrap will do what it was engineered to do. If the same crews that installed the housewrap in the pictures installed zip I guarantee you'd have many images also of things voiding the manufacturers warranty for the zip. My point is housewrap gets a bad reputation mainly from incorrect installation and not defective product. Whatever WRB is installed(wrap,peel & stick, impregnated, fluid applied) has to be done right.

[@RustyGotBanned]

Perfectly stated.

[@imacyclepath440]

That’s because this video was basically just a glorified ad for Zip system. Look how bad Tyvek is: proceeds to show hack job install of Tyvek. I’m not saying the Zip System is bad. I’m just pointing out the obvious bias here and the fact that Matt is for sure making money from Zip.

[@DriverDude100]

What do you mean house wrap is dead? I see it flapping in the wind all the time. I can hear the sound it makes blowing in the wind in my sleep. Surely that is not dead. Rolls of house wrap and house wrap tape seem to multiply in the mud pits of my area's construction sites too.

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

I think he might be calling it a bit early, but he is right. It's time to do better.

[@TheCookster64]

It depends on if you live in the North or South. In the North you want your home to breathe from inside to outside. If you use ZIP system on the outside and a vapor barrier on the inside you're going to trap the moisture inside the walls.

[@hilux0094]

I’ve done house wrap over the exterior sheathing and then ran insulation board over top of that, with extremely good luck in sealing up the exterior

[@geoffreymills9932]

I'm wondering what the point of the wrap was if you cover it with an insulation board, I think the boards are a vapor barrier anyway but they don't allow the wood to breathe when used on the exterior side anyway

[@billmongiello4885]

if you use wood siding over the zip are all the nail holes (in the zip) from installing the siding potential leak points. or does the green coating "seal" around the nails

[@robertrestemayer7554]

Might just be nitpicking but anywhere on the windows where the zip tape isn’t covering the fin completely on to the frame is a point where water can infiltrate. We’ve started running the tape flat to the 90 where the fin attaches to the window and caulked the seam between window and fin.

[@jamesortolano3983]

@1:44 seconds "It's just an origami of pieces,going in every direction" No description could be more true. We used tar pp.years ago. Oh man dont miss that. As always Matt your making us see the light,of the future.. Thanx

[@pterafirma]

Tar paper is great. The key is, do all your penetrations, window installation (leave a sill flap), and sealing of seams _before_ wrapping with the bldg felt. Then it's just a shingle job, with cap nails, and minimal exposure time before siding.

[@leafydialupking1]

It certainly isn't dead in New Hampshire. I still see it all the time at news construction on the side of the road with osb and typar. Even at the peak of pandemic lumber when Zip R5 was the same price as osb and cheaper than standard Zip people were still doing osb and typar or sometimes tyvek.

[@raffkaisa]

Another person from nh here. I have yet to see a single house built with anything BUT house wrap

[@leafydialupking1]

@@raffkaisa my buddy, who also watches matts channel, built in Durham where they actually do blower door and require continuous insulation and he did use the thick zip R. And I see maybe 1 in 8 houses bring built using zip, normally it's the 3/4 million and over houses.

[@CybekCusal]

These southern builders don't have a clue how we build in the North. I don't even like OSB because it's a vapor retarder. We don't put our vapor barriers on the outside in the north.

[@CybekCusal]

@@leafydialupking1 agree . the zip cost is absurd. Not worth it.

[@Off-Grid]

Man, If I could have gotten some ZipR at the same price as OSB I'd have bought a semi load.

[@RustyGotBanned]

My company is the oldest Weatherization contractor in the State of Florida, and we've done thousands of homes in housewrap and zip system. Both have pros and cons, but in the end, it all comes down to installation. You can have just as many potential moisture intrusion with zip system if not more, especially with the vast number of installers that don't roll the tape like Huber requires. Housewrap is much more forgiving in the event your installers aren't well trained, and most framers are not well trained in either system. I'd invite you to come take a look at our jobs in Jacksonville and see that there are none in the country that compare. More focus on the installation would be more beneficial than Tyvek vs Zip vs Typar vs Barricade vs Weathemate Plus vs.....well, you get the picture.

[@mrniusi11]

the superior system is Monolithic domes.

[@RustyGotBanned]

@@mrniusi11 uhhhh...ok. Find someone who does those, and then find the homeowners that can afford them. Totally unrealistic.!

[@RustyGotBanned]

@MG the problem is constant turnover. Framers will put the new guys on the housewrap or zip tape because they need their best guys to keep on framing. That's where a contractor like myself that specializes in Weatherization Systems comes in to the picture. It's all we do and all we study. Even if we get new guys, the experienced ones are there to train and guide them. We've had this in Jacksonville, Florida for over 20 years, and we should be the model for the rest of the country. I pioneered the industry here, and you'd be hard pressed to find a housewrap job like that anywhere in NE Florida. The issue with Zip Tape is that it can look great from the street, but all the details could be wrong and most wouldn't even know. When we took on adding Zip Tape to our services, we decided we would only do it 100% correctly, and we ONLY do Zip 1.5 or 2.0.

[@mrniusi11]

@@RustyGotBanned The build cost is lower than a stick home and the ongoing costs are exponentially lower. Anyways polywall seems way better than zip.

[@RustyGotBanned]

@@mrniusi11 most homebuyers don't want to live in a home that looks like a Mars settlement. If the demand was there, and the cost was acceptable, they would be building them. They are a niche product that does not have mass appeal. Also, polywall requires much more labor skill and costs, and can only be applied if the weather conditions are just perfect. During the rainy season in the Southeast US, you'd never get anything done during hurricane season. With the labor shortage, Zip System and Housewrap Systems with highly trained installers are still the fastest and most cost effective WRB systems to use.

[@IKonMann]

Can you share insights on wall/roof vapor drive concerns with OSB sheathing? My understanding is the OSB glues create a super low perm rating that can only be mitigated with dehumidification.

[@InspiredCraftsman]

Why not sheath normally, tape seams then spray or roll an elastomeric?

[@alwaysvacationing5341]

Matt, didn't you say that the Zip system without the foam shouldn't be used in northern climates because it will trap water inside the wall since northern climates tend to have more of a problem with water vapor trying to leave the house than enter it. Only seal on the outside if it is insulated enough to prevent the dewpoint inside the wall from reaching the point that causes the water vapor to condense.

[@IndyPhil]

You might be right on High Performance and Higher end custom homes, but Zip System still has a way to go to get to production builders. Especially in areas of the country where builders are reluctant to try new things because they've been doing things the same way for many, many years.

[@milwaukeemikee4063]

I think Matt is very smart and uses all the latest and greatest. Most people however cannot afford to build the way he does. Tyvek is a perfect example. Tape all the seems use less staples in the middle and it is EVERY bit as good as the zipsystem. Put the money you will save into other parts of the build. Love watching his show though to learn about what is out there. This is not meant to be a knock on him. Keep up the great work Matt.

[@blackmanops3749]

When cost is no object , I'd choose Zip. I like the green color. It does kinda suck that after 5 years exposed, Tyvek fades and deteriorates. I'd need Zip to hold up at least 7 years, since it'll take that long to save up for the siding after forking out for the Zip.

[@empressche333]

But why would you leave it exposed for 5 years? It supposed to be covered within a couple of weeks so it doesn’t get exposed to much weather.

[@empressche333]

@@Lenser yup, totally did. Though, I’ve seen so many people in my small town do that with the house wrap. But yeah, my bad.

[@MurDocInc]

When cost is no object, you go ICF.

[@josecito976]

@@MurDocInc ICF R30 🤑🤑🤑

[@ssoffshore5111]

@@MurDocInc The cost delta between framing with lumber and ICF has really made ICF look a lot more compelling IMO!

[@thereefaholic]

Was always doomed because almost no framer uses it correctly ever making it almost useless. Contractors almost always wrap the house AFTER the windows are installed rather than folding it into the rough open ring then flashing it. Then the other subs come in and jack in the mechanicals and electrical sand the GC does nothing to correct when they destroy. But Tyvek is a directional matériels meant to stop water in one direction and let it breath in the other. So not to sure where the zip method will develop trapped moisture problems. Time will tell.

[@MrTexasDan]

Any difference between Zip and Painted OSB? They're getting 16 bucks a sheet for the special sauce coating that you later punch thousands of holes in.

[@timothykeith1367]

I am considering an oil based primer on OSB

[@williamweatherall8333]

As far as air sealing in not sure. People have gotten really good results taping plywood. I imagine the main thing is how it responds to water. Zip seems to hold up better to water than osb does.

[@MrTexasDan]

@@williamweatherall8333 Hence the reason I asked about "Painted OSB".

[@nsbconstruction9698]

GP Forcefield is substantially lower in price. I am giving it a go on my next build.

[@williamweatherall8333]

@@MrTexasDan I was trying to answer the air sealing part of zip. Air and water are the two aspects that zip advertises their product as doing for buildersp

[@eduardorivas363]

According to the zip system website, it says to start the tape at the first horizontal seam. I always thought it was the shingle method. If I go by what I think it would make the seam on the foundation the first horizontal seam. If I go by what the website can make it sound like, it would be the the first seam the two zip boards meet. That would be opposite the shingle method. Which is the best way to start the taping? Does it matter?

[@BachelderMark]

I did repairs on a Tyvek-wrapped house with knotty cedar siding on it, and poor detailing at the window and door trim. All the places where the Tyvek had been wet continuously for a long time, the Tyvek fell apart. Tyvek is not a water barrier. 15# felt would not have failed like this. Of course the siding shouldn't leak like it did this windy hill, but it did and these things happen. Tyvek may be a good air-barrier (when taped) and a good vapor barrier, but it is not a water barrier. Just saying.

[@elgringoec]

Matt (if you see this) I built my house thirty years ago before the sealing craze but what I did was silicone caulk every OSB seam on the exterior sheathing. I also used the newly emerging superior walls. I expect my "blower door score" would be on par with all today has to offer. Cheers!

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

I could not believe what I saw a couple of days ago. A $4M build using Tyvek flapping away in the wind. As a builder, it's like hanging a sign "I don't give a eff" and 'buyer beware'. Sadly, proper air sealing is still the exception on the multi-million builds I see in Norcal/Hawaii - a price point where you'd expect the minimal added cost to be standard building practice. Sure would like to see a longterm durability test on Siga Fentrim when used at sheathing/foundation interface - that's typically a high moisture/UV exposure location.

[@pterafirma]

Ever been to Calabasas CA? $15-20M cheap-ass cardboard shit-boxes everywhere. The pop stars, NBA players, and porn execs who live in them don't know the difference.

[@WorkshopGreg]

Sadly, membrane integrated sheathing will be the fodder for high end homes (at least in the pacific northwest for the foreseeable future.) Every spec house here is built with Tyvek. You can bungle up the installation and it passes inspection. Until quality of work inspections and grading are part of the already expensive permitting process, most Americans will continue to live in homes built haphazardly that they paid WAY too much for. I'm rebuilding my tool shed with Zipwall - I look forward to avoiding the time + hassle in getting a very tight envelope.

[@chatonlaveur]

For a new home, zip system is absolutely the best choice. But for retrofit applications (rewrapping and siding an existing house, removing and patching window openings, etc) building wrap is still useful.

[@terrencesauve]

I forego the wrap for 1" silver board R5 and a couple of box of tuck tape fromy siding contractor. Did the blower door for the EE retrofit $, dropped from 5.5 down to 4.5 ACH@50Pa. I'm glad we did it, even if we sold 3 months later. Would do that again, just for the extra 1600$. Better insulation, air sealing and noise reduction!

[@MrDavez]

This summer is tear off siding,,, buck out window frames 1.5in,, Fix/Patch up what ever house wrap is under the siding, then 1.5 formular150 from rafters to base sill. Sealing foundation joints with Siga fentrim tape. Then new u24 windows, doors, patio slider, and screen doors. then extra insulation steps will add about 1600 to the bill,,, but I should recover those cost in 3-5 years. Replacing cheap builder quality parts with Energy Efficient ones, should keep this Mi house more comfy year round. Matts work has helped me a ton, in the info gathering stages and installation techniques.

[@kenbrown2808]

tyvek in my climate was dead in a couple years - when houses had to be completely resheathed because they were rotting behind the siding. second gen housewrap is just getting to the age when we will be finding out if it is just as bad. and all adhesives fail over time. and yes, I've seen sheathing rotted all the way to the top.

[@4philipp]

And where are you located?

[@kenbrown2808]

@@4philipp on the west coast

[@pterafirma]

Bldg felt over CDX would've dried out as fast as it got wet, and would still be intact. Low-perm woven plasticky shit over wafer board is a perfect recipe for trapped water and mush.

[@HistoricHomePlans]

Matt, a thought for a future video. 3:40 I like the use of a tape or a fluid applied between the bottom of the panel and the foundation. But how can this be integrated with a termite shield? Termites are spreading. Typically I use a sheet metal shield between the sill plate and foundation, which projects out. I often see nice details like at 3:40 that solve one problem but fail to address another, or sometimes even create another problem. It's the integration of solutions that is so important. So a video about all things termites, that actually works with other issues such as air sealing. I've seen your videos on Termi-mesh and that's a good start but we need more. Can Termi-mesh be used at the bottom of Zip-R panels, to seal to the face of the foundation? That's the most critical termite entry point. How does that integrate with an insulated slab edge for a slab on grade house? This is the kind of integration of solutions I'm talking about.

[@retiredperson4054]

I sure wish Matt would have answered your question because I have the same one -- with a new build for next year!

[@TP21138]

I haven’t had a chance to use zip system yet in any build I’ve been a part of, my area of Wisconsin is a little behind on new ways of thinking about our building. But I’ve really really tried my best to do as much air sealing as I can. I started cutting my rolls of tyvek in half to make handling easier, I only use staples where there are overlaps and then tape over them. I refuse to use the cheap woven wraps that are pretty much transparent. My biggest hurdle in the industry is getting guys to even look into these products like zip. They are so stuck in their ways and don’t think/care about any other option other than the ones they learned 20+ years ago.

[@TheCookster64]

You can't use ZIP system in the North. It will trap the moisture inside the walls if you do a vapor barrier on the inside as we're supposed to in the North.

[@benjaminknight9275]

I wouldn't be considering Zip for your climate zone, you need to be looking at SIPs. You want to raise some eyebrows? Pop out one of these plans and tell your framers you want them to put the house together like Legos! I spoke with residential WI builder last year, they're exclusively SIPs now.

[@TheCookster64]

@@benjaminknight9275 Thanks for this, this is exactly what I'm looking for! I contacted the company.

[@LightGesture]

Damn, Matt. You took your 'saying' like the boxing announcer at MGM. LOL I like how you did your sealant on the underside. looked MUCH more long lasting than that thin tape. If I end up using the zip on my home I'm building, if I did that tape, I'd double it. It depends if I hit those cuts as nice as you, and it makes it easy and clean. You put out good content.

[@GORT70]

They make good points on the potential problems with the wrap-if one is not careful or trained poorly it won’t end well. But this does look like more of a paid promo.

[@dannymotovlogs4254]

the picture screen shots were def worst case scenario ones, most ive are not done that bad at house wrap

[@aggiehorsedoc]

Matt, I'd love to see an episode on exterior liquid applied air/vapor barriers. Nitra-seal, air-shield, etc. Are they being used and can they be uses in the residential market.

[@GForceFitness1]

@James O'Bryan, Matt has numerous videos on fluid applied WRB's like Prosoco's system and Polywall's Blue Barrier products.

[@gman8260]

Problem is contractors will cut corners with Zip and not properly adhere the tape to the panels or the panels will be wet and the tape not stick.

[@zenrook1]

Getting ready to start a project in southern Utah and none of the local suppliers stock Huber Zip sheathing or its competitor Georgia-Pacific Forcefield. Looks like I'm going to have to source it some other way.

[@beckycrump8831]

What about LP Weatherlogic?

[@boedillard8807]

Matt - off topic from the current video, have you ever created a kitchen island that is a full on quartz or granit top 8 to 12' long that actually is movable? I imagine you'd have to put in serious wheels - maybe 6 or so and use lead plates on top of the bottom layer to create a low center of gravity. My issue is I really want to be able to move it so if I'm moving in appliances or working on changing out the garabage disposal etc. I suppose if you wanted the island wired, you could make the plug removable from the floor.

[@JohnathanBach]

I’m in the middle of a house rebuild project where I’m using Zip Sheathing on the bottom 2 ft, and standard 7/16 sheathing for the rest, except for the gable ends, where I’m using a full sheet of Zip on the bottom of the wall to get that extra water protection. All sheathing seams taped. Zip tape for all window installs. Matt, any concerns with doing this? I’ve talked to a lot of builders about this, and they have told me as long as I use a hard siding product (Smartside, Hardie, etc), I shouldn’t have to worry about house wrap. Wish I could upload a photo for illustration. Thanks.

[@maxmanx1294]

Good idea. I'd probably do the same. I'd like to find scrap pieces & build an animal house using it & remove the siding periodically to have a look. My animal house wouldn't have forces on capilary action & other conditions, but I'd like to test anyway.

[@JohnathanBach]

@@maxmanx1294 Zip tape is tenacious stuff. Using the Zip advantage on the bottom of the wall while taping all the sheathing seemed to be a good balance of cost. Also, I’m in east TN, so I shouldn’t have any concern of moisture buildup in the wall. Dries to the interior. And using Rockwool R15 batts. I plan to have a 3/8” air gap between the LP SmartSide and the substrate. So not worried about capillary action.

[@rcpmac]

I assume this detail is appropriate for a cooling climate. In a damp heating climate wouldn’t you trap and condense vapor in the cavity. In that environment the vapor barrier should be located at the drywall layer.

[@pterafirma]

Up north, _high_ perm WRB, covered with Rockwool.

[@mphuie]

ZIP is way too expensive. Plus, almost 1/2 of my ZIP-R panels separated from the foam. Next project I'm going double stud with a WRB.

[@maxmanx1294]

I'd love to see pics or videos of that. I'm considering Zip.

[@Off-Grid]

I ended up putting rigid foam on first then Zip. Basically like ZipR but not glued together.

[@FJB2020]

@@maxmanx1294 perkins brothers is sponsored by Huber and you can see the foam has separated from the zip. It looked like it was glued in 3 spots.. definitely not quality.

[@swtgrl2no]

Do you have a zip savy contractor on file for South Louisiana? Ida totalled our home and we have to rebuild, not fancy, pretty tiny but want zip

[@petermayiii722]

Buy a can of Flex Seal and use it to spray over your nail heads, super fast and super easy. No worries about water getting in then.

[@Off-Grid]

Used liquid flashing on all our nail holes. Super quick and easy.

[@aayotechnology]

Have you asked Huber if they are compatible?

[@fred1690]

I do remodeling , home improvement stuff, I always use #30 felt. Its better than all that junk imo.

[@djtheg6819]

The felt deteriorates to fast. The jumbotex double layer paper is better then felt. The paper and felt seem similar but the paper lasts longer, plus having the extra layer is nice insurance that if it gets past the first layer, then you got the 2nd. Tyvek house wrap is and always was garbage. I have all the stucco ripped of my house and I used jumbotex paper to help get some sort of water resistances for the sheeting. The stucco has been ripped off for a couple years. And I have just had the jumbotex paper on the house and the sheeting has. Held up fine. Then I decided to take the paper off and put felt since it is heavier. It deteriorated QUICK. The paper never went bad but it was faded so I decided to try the felt. Had to take the felt off and put paper back on. The original felt behind the original stucco had turned super brittle. My stucco guy said that the felt gets baked and turns brittle over time. The paper holds up better for some reason.

[@fred1690]

@@djtheg6819 thanks for the info. I'll research it.

[@wth718]

@@djtheg6819 That's because felt isn't meant to remain exposed. I've seen 60+ year old houses with felt intact and in good condition. It's not sexy, but done properly is very effective still.

[@Nicksonian]

Not even any house wrap. I contracted with a community "builder" to buy a new house back in 1998. I checked out construction numerous times. Imagine my shock one day when I saw the vinyl siding being attached directly to the plywood sheathing. Not even any house wrap. That was a good example of how badly the house was being constructed. Found out later that they just slapped windows in bare-lumber holes. Gee, wonder why they leaked less than a year later. After just 14 years, the roof was failing and water infiltration had damaged drywall. Sadly, most builders are more like mine and much less like Matt Risinger.

[@AlAmantea]

You really should have cut back to Will's Outro at the end... I bet he feels a bit slighted as big as that smile was on his face at doing it. Great video as always, Matt!

[@stfhaha1963]

True ply and tar is all you need. I hate osb, so right or wrong zip seems cheap to me but cuts labor costs.

[@chrisdangelo1603]

I like the Zip system. BUT, I used this on a 3 story 400 unit apartment complex. Let me tell you it was a challenge to get the crew to get it right. And the house wrap work you showed was obviously done by incompetent crews. Both are good systems. I'm a fan of Zip but wrap is just as good

[@theinternets7516]

Where I live, lots of cheap split levels are still being built everywhere so I'm sure house wrap will still be alive and well for decades to come.

[@jaybrundege8767]

Matt’s comment about only seeing rot in the bottom of the house is lacking the insight that the water penetrates higher- the bottom is just where it settles and soaks the wood to start rotting. Just saying…

[@justinjimenez6960]

So my understanding is to conclude that areas where moisture is transient do not need as robust a barrier as areas where water settles -yes?

[@toddwilliams5905]

Bottom of walls gets splash back and less roof protection.Most rot I repair is down low. Next most is from bad roofs.

[@jaybrundege8767]

I agree with both of you, and we always see the worst rot in the lower sections, or anywhere that water gets dammed up. I just meant to point out that Matt’s comment would lead the average joe to believe that only the bottom 1-2 feet is worth focusing on when it comes to stopping water penetration. I felt like it would’ve been helpful to add that while the bottom is where the rot damage mostly occurs, the water can come in from every point on that wall/roof that isn’t protected properly. Hopefully that was more clear, thanks!

[@ledebuhr1]

Matt, I disagree that House wrap is dead. Huber makes a great product with Zip but being that they have a patent on it they seem to like to gouge the customer. Around here, (SE Michigan) I never see a high-end homes built with Zip. It is available at Home Depot and Lowes, but it's not selling. If the price was more competitive it would sell well and make house wrap obsolete. That won't happen until Hubers patent runs out. Yes Lp makes WeatherLogic and GP makes a similar product. But both those companies have to pay Huber a license fee to sell their competitive products.

[@alwaysvacationing5341]

I'm from Michigan also. I thought I saw a video where Matt said Zip should not be used in northern climates because we have more problems with moisture on the inside wanting to leave the home than entering it. So we don't want to trap the moisture in the wall. Sealing on the outside should only be done if it is insulated on the outside to prevent the dewpoint inside the wall from reaching the dewpoint that causes the water vapor to condense.

[@misterlyle.]

Are ZIP system panels basically OSB with a factory applied layer of paint?

[@skliros9235]

No. There's more resin and glue in the osb. It doesn't swell up like regular osb.

[@jessiehawes5062]

it is osb with a coating on it not sure what the coating consists of. you can also get zip panels with foam insulation on one side.

[@MrTexasDan]

@@jessiehawes5062 that "coating" is $16 a sheet here.

[@misterlyle.]

@@jessiehawes5062 Thanks for your reply. After a quick scan of available information, it looks like the ZIP system coating is an oil based paint product, with a perm rating of about 12. So it is somewhat breathable, more than if it had an acrylic coating. The OSB is described as having a higher stress rating, but I don't know what regular OSB is rated at.

[@misterlyle.]

@@MrTexasDan You must mean over the price of comparable OSB. If you were a builder, you would consider the cost of going back around to install a house wrap along with the benefit of a sheathing that is water resistant as soon as it is nailed up.

[@tranceformer110]

Still seeing new homes built here in Missouri and high end ones at that still using housewrap.

[@Aaron86v]

It's normal and cheaper.

[@samt5663]

High end: do you define that based on siding, interior finishes, square feet?

[@Ninjump]

Same here, Bay area

[@cruzmissileoutdoors]

@@samt5663 guess you have to sacrifice cost in things unseen for the things you can see.

[@Off-Grid]

Spec homes are still doing tyvek to save and make a buck

[@jonathanunruh9376]

I'd like to see how they would talk if Dupont would pay them more than Huber is. LOL I bet they would find better pictures of nicely installed Tyvek...

[@utubesj]

The reason I chose Zip for my own build is because there is such an inconsistency with house wrap. It's so highly dependent on installation prowess. I have rarely seen bad pics of houses with Zip. Just good or great, and I think it is because it is a better system design.

[@thebigpicture2032]

That was one of the worse Tyvec installations I’ve seen.

[@Off-Grid]

Seems typically of all tyvek installs I've seen.

[@MrTexasDan]

@@Off-Grid I just can't buy into the way-more-expensive Zip because you can't trust the workmanship of your own people. Zip is $16 a sheet more than OSB here.

[@Off-Grid]

@@MrTexasDan quality of work is a HUGE problem. That's they I did everything myself.

[@tullgutten]

Can't buy anything simmilar to zip sheeting here in Norway. Also it is cold climate rating se we must have moisture/vapor sealing innside at the hot side and vapor open outside. The only kinda similar is waterresistant plaster/gipsum. But that is really easy damadged.

[@3000gtwelder]

Do they have any way to test what chemicals are off gasing in a new house?

[@Lumber_Jack]

I wish they had zip when we built our home many years ago. It was a struggle getting the framers to put up the house wrap correctly and to detail around openings properly. Not only did they do many windows the wrong way, they weren't even consistent in getting it wrong. Don't know if it was lack of attention to detail or a lack of smarts, but it was a struggle. Zip makes it more of a no-brainer to get things right. I do believe house wrap will still have a long life ahead. There are structures (barns, etc) where zip is unnecessary and house wrap is perfect (think about putting up board & batten siding over wall girts -- house wrap is an ideal barrier and a big improvement over using roofing felt). And depending on cost and supply, house wrap will probably be a necessary alternative just based on economics.

[@amv_pure]

I’ve seen enough poor Zip jobs. Many areas for mistakes.

[@tavarisjones551]

house wrap isn't dead unless code changes. Its just too easy for framing crews to throw up house wrap. More care is required to properly install zip and properly tape & roll the joints. Yes, it is easy to do zip well, but its even easier to do house wrap good enough...

[@capedcrusaderforbuilders9671]

I am specifying for a new build in deep cold snow country, western red cedar shingle siding (chosen by owner), that the wall build (2x6 by local code), is 2x6, 24" centers, 7/16 OSB sheathing, flash and batt inside (2" closed cell, Roxul at 3.5"), and out, Benjamin Obdyke HydroGap housewrap, then the shingles. Obdyks's installation specs are for 4" overlap, no tape no seal, at horizontal joints, 6" no tape no seal, for the few vertical joints. So no, housewrap ain't dead, at least here when we want to do WRC shingle siding.

[@MurDocInc]

Calling it because he's paid to, but most of the guys in BC building passive houses that were featured here before are using plywood, taped seams and mento 1000 on top. Which he was cool with when 475 sponsored him. Just saying we won't get the whole truth if it affects Matt's wallet.

[@FJB2020]

He is a shill

[@powrrangr99]

To be fair, those builds are basically all using European house wraps - not Tyvek, not asphaltic paper, and definitely not department store-branded wraps. Ask the European house wrap manufacturer's and most of them will tell you the aforementioned are outdated too.

[@claireh.7605]

He sucks at explaining things too - and a salesman for premium building products trying to get into the market

[@donaldhampton5854]

I have seen a crapy zip install just as well . You guys show what 90% of builders should do but don't.

[@eldenbrady]

Last I checked zip and its competitors are not readily available at any of the big box store lumberyards. Until it is house wrap will still be the go to for DIY homeowners at least.

[@JohnathanBach]

Why doesn’t Huber or someone come up with a sheathing with the foam attached to the outside? I know that sealing would be tricky, but I don’t think impossible. You need some kind of a gauge to ensure the fasteners go into the framing members, maybe screws? That way you wouldn’t have the issue with shear strength diminished by having the foam between the structural panel and the studs. Seems to make some sense.

[@empressche333]

I just watched an industrial building go up in my area where the plywood sheathing was attached to studs with shear wall being done at that level. Then foam board attached, sealed. Then rockwool attached with capped fasteners, and channel attached to allow metal cladding to be installed. It was fascinating. I haven’t seen anything like that before. And I live on the coast..lots of wind and water.

[@dosadoodle]

Hi Matt, any update on when your podcast will return? It looks like the last episode was in December. I checked two podcast apps and on the Build Network website and don't see any more recent episode.

[@Off-Grid]

our Off-Grid home has Zip.... infact we still haven't covered it up. The tape did not seal on the roof and had leaks in several places but the walls seem ok. Videos on our channel.

[@seanm3226]

As long as Zip System’s price remains high, Tyvek house wrap will live forever.

[@natemartinez4595]

Its comparable in my area. No reason not to go zip. When you factor the cost of CDx plywood + houseware, it's no more expensive to go with zip

[@toddcurtis1377]

@@natemartinez4595 OSB sheathing for 7/16" 4X8 is only $3 less per panel than ZIP - That's close enough - my local discount Lumber store

[@luckyone9272]

$50 a sheet is stupid high for zip sheathing. Much higher than plywood or OSB.

[@jarrettambrose]

Evidently you haven't bought any plywood or osb lately.. Zip is within $4 a sheet around this area.. Wrapping a house is just stupid and a waste.. Never use wrap on any house I build.. The insurance deduct alone far out ways the up charge for zip.. Not to mention the deduction in the power bill every month.. Bonus

[@jarrettambrose]

@@toddcurtis1377 you haven't been buying any osb or plywood around here.. Zip has a huge cost benefit tied to it.. Just check your power bill every month..

[@allenlane5000]

We can't use zip system in Hawaii Matt, as they do not make a pressure treated version, and all wood has to be treated....so still not dead out here yet.

[@wsholt]

We have just chosen a builder for our new home. One of the factors why we chose this builder is because they used the zip system on all of their builds.

[@mrrnrob]

There's Delays On HouseWrap For Our New Build..Are You W Sha Hearing The Same Thing Out There Delays HouseWrap Material? Thanks Rob

[@Ariel-xz8lg]

Matt, Is the Zip system panels flexible? Think dome home. Can they be cut to fit a geodesic pattern?

[@MorryB]

Aren't geodesic domes made from flat panels?

[@alphabrett2502]

Finally a matt risinger video that features superior walls, but that's not what this video is about so he doesn't talk about it. Does he have a video I've missed? I feel like superior walls are something he would really like. Done in a day most times and has tons of perks. But there's like no KZbin videos on it. Any comments?

[@buildshow]

We did a few on superior walls a few weeks ago!

[@cheatcanyon1]

How do I use more plastic and oil derivatives to make my house more environmentally friendly

[@vezzarn]

I have watched your other videos on a drainwrap over sheathing to address drainage behind a foam layer, but what about when using the zipsystem? Would one still need to worry about drainage or would one just attach the foam directly to the zip sheathing?

[@michaelshettig7805]

Get content as always Matt. Good job and a good forum for discussion. Yeah, if you have money for a zip system for your house, it's a no-brainer, install it. But, if you are reviewing all of your costs for your house build, then in the value engineering vernacular, what are my life-cycle energy savings in installing this system. Let's say that the blower tests are better on this house than a house wrap system. You could estimate that in climate zone 3 that you may save between $5-$10 per month in energy cost for an 1800 SF house. An upcharge of a zip system may cost you an additional $3000-$5000 for this house. So, the payback would be around 30 years.

[@whatever_12]

Easy data that are often left out due to sponsor or not wanting to lose opportunity of future one, I understand ytuber get to make their bread but more transparency and showing alternatives is almost non existante now.

[@HistoricHomePlans]

Of course all costs need to be considered as much as possible. With Zip sheathing you are getting both sheathing and "housewrap" in one step. So it needs to be compared to the material/labor costs of standard sheathing AND housewrap combined. With IRC 2021 more places are also going to require exterior insulation, which is yet another material/labor component. Zip-R provides this as well. So with a product like Zip-R you get all 3 material components installed with single labor component. What I think we really need is for some real competition. Right now Huber dominates way too much of the market. Other companies need to be expanding into this product category.

[@macleanclassics]

@@HistoricHomePlans There is competition... ICF. When you start getting into the cost of zip R...you start pushing towards the cost of ICF. Then all steps are really done in one shot, and you have a home that is energy efficient, noise, fire , earthquake and hurricane proof at the same time. Log home would be competition as well.

[@razashah360]

@@HistoricHomePlans actually most jurisdictions done considering ZIP R exterior insulation because its on the inside of the sheathing

[@michaelshettig7805]

@@HistoricHomePlans I had the zip system in a design-build 1800 SF house on the north shore of the Sam Rayburn Reservoir. A passive house design with R40 walls, R60 ceiling. The owner was cost-conscious, The Zip system along with reducing the insulation to R20 walls, R30 ceiling, which is code, was considered in a VE item. I estimated that he would spend roughly an additional $8 -$10 more on electricity per month with this reduced design. We'll build it as a quasi-passive house by sealing it tight like your yeti cooler strapped to the back of your ATV and we'll also install an ERV so that he can breathe. I'm a boomer, I chuckle, gone are the days when you just opened a couple of screened windows, and along with a couple of circular ceiling fans and the breeze off the lake, you could cool your house.

[@FishNDoogie]

That’s what they are using on my garages. Hope it helps keep the garages better sealed.

[@Off-Grid]

It is only as good as the rest of the system. Zip is meant for air tightness so if you have leaks around your doors and windows then installing the Zip was pointless.

[@MrTexasDan]

You are going to be quite disappointed with the sealing performance of your garage doors negating the benefit of your Zip.

[@Natedoc808]

Air tightness for sheathing comes from the inside by sealant to studs at seams of the sheet to the studs, caulking the inside of the sheets in the stud bays before insulation. Flex taping house wrap around windows/penetrations is a cake walk. Tycek would be the absolute hero of products if DuPont paid as much as Huber for marketing their product. Cherry picking damaged or poorly applied house wrap isn’t honest, I’ve seen houses with Zip with the tape dangling off everywhere

[@dannymotovlogs4254]

this was very well said, this video was more marketing here than anything else

[@Oldhogleg]

I'm not convinced because in Northern climates the vapor barrier is on the interior side of the insulation to prevent condensation within the walls, creating mold; wich is why you want a vapor breathable wrap on the exterior side of the insulation. I don't know, but maybe it's the reverse for southern climates?

[@rvfix2211]

I have been looking at the zip sheeting with the foam insulation on the back. Is it a problem when nailing the foam into the studs , does it compress the foam into the stud enough to make the osb "wave" where its nailed? Seems like it would be more prevalent on the joining studs.

[@000OO0OOO0]

After hearing that "Oooon the Build Show" in the end I really want to see Matt singing "Staying Alive".

[@snuffyupagus2216]

How would one "vent" moisture if using Zip? The main benefit of housewrap to me is the ability to be vapour open and ensure nice dry walls.

[@macleanclassics]

Was thinking this as well... in a cold climate, you better be using spray foam cause the vapour transfer (even with acoustic sealed poly) is going to be trapped.

[@captkirkoakes]

ERV or hrv for ventilation

[@valkyriefrost5301]

It depends on the Huber product. The normal Zip board is just coated OSB which provides a vapor permeable moisture barrier that blocks out water while allowing vapor to pass. Zip-R is a Zip board with poly-iso attached to the inside of the board, making it both a water barrier and an air/vapor barrier. With the Zip-R product, you'll want some type of ERV/HRV system to handle indoor air issues. In this video, it looks like Zip-R is being used on that house.

[@JohnathanBach]

If you’re drying to the inside, it doesn’t matter. In northern climates, the key is vapor control layers. I think Siga has a “smart” vapor retardant membrane that basically works where the vapor can only pass through in one direction. Gives the benefit of poly, but still allows drying to the inside when possible. A big part of the Zip is preventing the water in the wall in the first place. If you control your moisture inside, you have a lot less vapor to be worried about. Big benefit of a dehumidifier separate from your air conditioner. It works all year long.

[@rabbytca]

@@macleanclassics In a southern climate where cooling is the predominate conditioning inside, the interior is going to have less moisture than the exterior. The structure therefore is passing moisture to the inside to dry out. In a northern climate is where the opposite is true. There must be more insulation placed on the cold side of any moisture barrier product than inboard. The dew point must occur on the side which has the predominately lower humidity levels and therefore drying capability.

[@rickyclark9052]

Excited to see you in Alabama. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks.

[@cw6410]

I mostly use peel and stick (blue skin ) thought it was pretty idiot proof with their tape. More expensive though, but it’s a great option for renovating and residing a house

[@isaacdelagarza6352]

4x8 Zip $78.99 vs OSb $39.99. Hard to justify the $11,000 difference for the whole house. Wish it was in my budget but i couldn’t do it.

[@yoho1021]

Pay now or pay later…

[@Off-Grid]

You really don't have to Zip the garage as it is about impossible to air seal around garage doors. That might save you some money.

[@MrTexasDan]

@@Off-Grid Haha ... I have a friend that built a big shop, and he was all proud of himself over the zip sheathing that he paid dearly for. I asked how he sealed up those huge garage doors ... dead silence.

[@isaacdelagarza6352]

@@yoho1021 how long before I would start seeing my return on investment? How much more would I be saving in energy cost per month? some of the questions I couldn’t answer to the boss lady lol we went with Tyvek.

[@FJB2020]

@@isaacdelagarza6352 ROI just isn't there.. also no one builds a forever home anymore and when it comes time to sell, no one is going to pay a premium for zip.. It just doesn't happen..

[@gdelete8098]

A home in my neighborhood (2001 build) currently has a builder grade 1/4" cardboard type sheathing product on it. I'm watching the remodeling contractor put 1/2" plywood overtop of it, then they put GAF feltbuster synthetic roofing underlayment over the plywood. Tar paper installed around the new window openings, and now they are installing new hardieboard siding. I don't want to butt into the neighbors business, but I think he is getting ripped off and don't know if I should even open my mouth...just seems really wrong. Any advice?

[@meme7591]

I'll tell you this when prices go down and supplies are better I'm definitely going to try to see if I can get a loan to take the metal siding off my old house and put the zip plywood And around it. I don't know when I'll be able to afford it but I'll tell you this thank you for confirming what I thought.