Why I Stopped Using House Wrap

[@rexmundi8154]

Having done my fair share of old house renovations and repairs here in Kentucky, I’ve never seen old fashioned tar paper fail when properly installed. I’ve taken down walls with 100 year old tar paper behind poplar clapboard and the tar paper was still like new.

[@markmartin7384]

What about house wrap, what was your experience?

[@nicholasimhoff9230]

​@@markmartin7384I've re sided houses with cedar siding and tyvek wrb. After 30 years the cedar was tired, the tyvek was stained, but the studs and interior were just fine. Nothing wrong with tyvek afaik

[@DiscoFang]

Yeah it is amazing what free airflow can do to preserve a wall construction. Start to restrict that with retrofitted insulation or exterior sealants and the trapped moisture does destroy building papers. I've been renovating old houses for 38 years including a few years working as a builder doing external weatherboard and window repairs for a friend's fairly large painting business. It's amazing what you start to see repeatedly and consistently with old houses when modern sealants and ideas are forced onto them. I'm still a fan of heavyweight, self-supporting building papers.

[@rexmundi8154]

@@markmartin7384 I haven’t done a lot of work on newer construction but I have noticed that the real problem isn’t so much with the WRB but with the quality of the wall material itself. The older OSB is just terrible and the 2x material is so much less dense like it’s just sapwood. They both crumble and rot if even a tiny amount of water gets thru.

[@rexmundi8154]

@@DiscoFang I still feel like a house has to breathe. I know that the new code and new methods call for the house to be sealed up like a can but I don’t trust all the adhesives, caulks, and tape to last. Especially when applied indifferently. I’m about to retire and build a house for myself and I’m trying to strike a balance between old construction techniques and modern thermal performance. It’ll be a small house, so it’s not like I’ll need to heat and cool 6500 sqft of 20’ ceilings. I’m doing a ground mount solar system so my summer cooling will be free since there will be overproduction as the system is sized for my winter needs. I’m going to do in slab radiant hot water heat with a combo electric / propane boiler and a small wood stove. I think I’m going to use rock wool insulation. Modern houses are an industrial product with planned obsolescence, apartment complexes built 10-15 years ago here in Lexington that were "upscale" look like government housing now.

[@toddwheeler1526]

Retired GC and Sr Inspector. The biggest problem today, IMO, is the failure of the trades in understanding the basic materials science and following the manufacturer s use and installation instructions. Piss poor management and oversight of the projects by the modern GO FAST, TIME IS MONEY, attitudes. Almost always, the Approved Plans have all of the details required for a decent understanding about proper work. Of course, you have to read the fine print as well as study the reference materials noted.

[@primeracalidad8320]

When the installers cant read in their own language, much less in English. Instructions are useless.

[@toddwheeler1526]

@primeracalidad8320 AMEN, exactly 💯

[@motsy15]

Problem 1 the plans are in English. Problem 2 most builders think putting a copy of those plans on the job is supervision.

[@stubeast4031]

Many, but not all general contractors, are careless dicks.

[@marcusb7446]

Well I’m sure glad that the diverse new American construction people are studying all the fine print and all the reference materials, since if we know anything, we know that they are a very studious and diligent people, as is evident by the wonderful and successful societies they came from.

[@canucktheory3271]

As a long time EIFS contractor and installer specializing in complex and intricate installs, I've been beating this drum for 15 plus years. You hit the nail on the head regarding the pros and cons. The guys here are still doing the mechanically fastened system over tyvek and every siding guy is doing the same. Keep up the quality content!

[@overlordsshadow]

Where in Canada are you doing installs? We had some out of country guys staple with 1/2 crown 1" foam on a gable and finish it with acrylic and it blew off in the wind a few years later. lol

[@garyenwards1608]

What are your thoughts on BP Canada R-1.5 Panel Wall Sheathing Panel 1/2IN. Costs 9 bucks Canadian here locally. Its an asphalt outer coating. The old neighbor has something similar that his house is made of from the 1930s. Claims its great stuff and hasnt deteriorated in the close to 100 years its been in the house his father built and he now lives in.

[@narmale]

@@garyenwards1608 asphalt board was the only thing that saved my parents house from my dad refusing to do any care and painting on the house, kept the moisture from wicking through the rotten wood cladding and to the studs and drywall

[@garyenwards1608]

@@narmale Thanks man Good to know

[@jamespike5670]

One thing you need to consider, if you have a vapour barrier on the inside of your house, which is the norm in cool climate places, and you seal the outside, then any moisture on the inside has no place to escape. You get whats called double bagging, which is a problem. You need to keep the weather out of your building structure, but do not double bag your exterior assemblies. Tyvek wrap is semi permiable to the outside, IE it breathes moisture to the outside. With a non permeable barrier on the outside, what happens is, there are dew points on the inside of your wall assemblie, which builds moisture over time.

[@bn880]

housewrap doesn't seal moisture

[@Supercharged111]

Zip sheathing in particular is vapor permeable. I'd be surprised if the rest weren't too. This double bagging you speak of is why I have no interest in a layer of foam board insulation on the exterior of the house. To get enough to not need a vapor barrier inside would call for 3" of it and I don't want to build around that. Any less and you've bookended the wall cavity and moisture has nowhere to go.

[@Gjehcyekcgev]

Stop adding "music"

[@baldclub]

Not your video, is it?

[@whymindsetmatters]

Turn your volume off

[@dobknocks]

Stop giving your opinion?

[@Gjehcyekcgev]

@@baldclubIt's just feedback. It won't hurt anyone...

[@DylanFarrow]

@@Gjehcyekcgevagreed, it is feedback, but adding something like ‘I’d prefer no music’ or ‘please don’t add music, it distracts from your voice’ it works far better and I doubt you’d get the same feedback from your feedback

[@GeneralChangFromDanang]

I'd say the problem isn't with the house wrap options. It's more to do with contractors that STILL don't know how to properly flash a window or door.

[@gregorymoats4007]

As a craftsman of 37 years I’m afraid I have to agree. While there’s certainly room for improvements regarding moisture penetration and control, flashing is first and foremost line of protection. Along with ice & water shield, where appropriate.

[@leonsieberns9191]

Poor installation is the biggest problem. Although there are different brands and qualities of what is called house wrap. The Tyvek brand is a quality product it repells water an breaths allowing moisture from inside exit out

[@mchurch3905]

Built my house in 1983. 2 X 6 studs, sheeted with 1/2’ CDX sheeting, 15# asphalt felt, sided with beveled redwood siding. Never had any mold or mildew and don’t expect to. Use of strand board sheeting (particle board) and tyvek was, in my opinion, marketing bullshit. I wouldn’t use OSB to start a fire and the “moisture barrier” does just that, won’t allow moisture to get out of the wall and creates mold and rot. The only reason they came up with tyvek was because of manipulated petroleum prices in the 70’s. And the reason they came up with OSB was because it’s cheaper to make than plywood. Not nearly the shear strength of CDX Glue and chopped up waste wood that swells up when exposed to moisture and starts to degrade as soon as it’s nailed up. Framers hate the shit, especially when it’s exposed to rain. The ONLY reason garbage board is used at all is because it’s cheaper.

[@freeradical6390]

Yep! Ive built houses since 1989, Ive watched companies like Tyvek and Simpson Strong Tie hold a monopoly on a market made profitable by your local county planning and zoning commission! Loggers still dont get that we ran out of trees years ago and now make studs out of scrap (called finger joint studs) and plywood out of sawdust!

[@garyenwards1608]

What are your thoughts on BP Canada R-1.5 Panel Wall Sheathing Panel 1/2IN. Costs 9 bucks Canadian here locally

[@kosh9639]

LP siding is pretty good... better than, fiber-cement.. Like Any wood product: How long will it last.?. It's All in the Paint.. 😂 I use 50% More Paint-- over original Primed surfaces.

[@Saullavado44]

Just because a thing is "new" does not make it better. Quite the contrary. The application of trial and error over a LONG PERIOD OF TIME is generally the best way to assure fitness of purpose. Just look at the new breed of electric cars! My Uncle told me that, back in the day, building materials and designs were chosen because they would last a minimum of a hundred years. Now that is good for the environment.

[@brettb614]

Builder/remodeler for 30 years here. OSB is fine so long as the siding and trim details are installed properly, and the homeowner keeps up the required maintenance through the years. Same for CDX (plywood). CDX will delaminate and rot if not properly protected and maintained exactly the same as OSB. Same for Tyvek and other house wraps. Take the time to install and protect the products you install and they will last you a lifetime. If all the documented failures, incorrect installation is a small percentage. Homeowners not educating themselves and maintaining their houses properly causes most failures I've repaired over the years. Inspect, caulk and paint your house using quality products, you'll have a house that lasts generations. As far as running out of lumber: this is completely false. The lumber industry cuts almost zero percent old growth trees. Nearly all of their harvested products are from fast growth species and they replant when they cut. Finger jointed studs are an engineered product that competes in the marketplace, they are not manufactured and sold because we ran out of trees to make lumber from. Please educate yourselves and don't believe everything you read on social media.

[@anonz975]

I just used old school tar paper when building my small off-grid dream home (built by pros...not me personally). Since the house is passive cooled in the South I was concerned about mold and moisture being trapped in the walls. I also went with mineral wool insulation and plywood (instead of OSB). Basically all materials used prior to 1930.

[@markcreamer3196]

Tar paper is the very best, I know I'm a GC for going on 48 years Tyvex is garbage

[@RomoRooster]

In 25 years of exterior remodeling and most houses in my area built between the 40's and 70's. The most important part of the house is the roof overhang in regards to protecting the exterior walls. The roof overhang always determines the condition of the walls

[@berrypainter]

You are so correct !

[@Thunderbird1968]

One thing to remember is that concrete ingredients and mortar can melt tyvek. I’ve been doing exteriors for 13 years and I have never renovated a house with properly done tar paper that was moldy or rotten. I would probably do tar paper on my own house

[@thenexthobby]

I have to think Tyvek became standard because it was cheaper, easier to ship, or just because plastic was the wonder material that could do no wrong.

[@1bye4bye9]

I'd love to see a breakdown of a. climate zones, b. wall assemblies, and c. appropriate ranges of vapor permeance.

[@ronbelanger4113]

Most of the junk they show will never pass inspection in the northern parts of continent.

[@RomoRooster]

Tyvec eventually dry rots and crumbles, theres hundreds of options and they all serve the purpose. But if your building a house you want as much roof overhang as possible, the roof protects walls better than anything else.

[@timmueller1314]

I tried using house wrap when I redid siding and windows on the front of my house. After it rained the siding was wet at every staple spot and after a couple of days the back still hadn't dried out. I tore it all off and used the heaviest tar paper I could find with hot galvanized dipped roofing nails.

[@zendell37]

While I don't doubt any of these negative points, I feel a lot of it(and similar complaints) is just a different form of "how to set a post correctly". If you watch every single post setting video on the Internet, the comments section will be full of people pointing out how it was done wrong and how it could be done better. I've watched home improvement videos about roof venting and it's the same thing. I've grown cynical to all of this befause no matter what I might do to my house, I'll probably make mold grow in it.

[@Sjwolosz321]

Bingo

[@ianbelletti6241]

True. House wraps are fine in most circumstances. It's the 10% of applications where you need to go with another system. However, some of the other systems have reduced labor cost which more than makes up for the difference in material cost. Unless a job specs a particular weather barrier it tends to be more profitable to go with the less labor intensive product.

[@brettb614]

​@@ianbelletti6241 this is incorrect unfortunately. Monolithic systems like the zipwall save miniscule amounts of labor while increasing cost significantly. They are great products but they are not for all homeowners budgets. It's really irrelevant what subsiding is used so long as the exterior cladding is installed and maintained properly. This is the secret to success. I've been a builder and remodeler for over 30 years and 95% of all repairs I've completed result from a lack of basic maintenance. Inspect, caulk and paint. Only use quality caulk

[@ianbelletti6241]

@@brettb614 you're only adding details to my generalization. I know you think you're arguing against me but you're only supporting my statement. Cost efficiency is the cost in labor and material. The costs often extend to maintenance on the job and the frequency of warranty repairs. If it's harder to install that increases the installation cost and the likelihood for warranty repairs. Some weatherproofing substrates are so soft that they tend to need a lot more repairs when the other trades have to run their materials through them driving up cost. You can't just look at installation labor and material cost alone.

[@rishat1254]

Exactly. Ive been saying this for years. I hope builders and clients will listen to you.

[@pinecone9045]

As one builder told me it shouldn't be called vapor barrier it should be named Mold Grower.

[@actionjksn]

I think it would work well if you used real plywood and then spray all of it with oil based primer and acrylic exterior semi gloss or satin paint and then tape all the joints with something weather resistant with a strong adhesive. It would be a pain in the ass but I think it would hold up well if you did a good job with whatever you're putting on the outside. I've had no problem with Tyvek, but I also make damn sure nothing is able to get behind my siding and other finish materials. If water is getting past your choice of cladding you're going to have problems no matter what you use. If water is getting in then it is not going to dry out, it's going to stay wet behind there indefinitely. On my wood trim, I back prime everything and after I make my cuts I keep a paint brush with me and paint or primer the ends of the boards before installing. I keep the brush wrapped in a plastic bag while I'm making my cuts and nailing them on. I do this with non pressure treated wood and 15-20+ years later and the wood is still in perfect condition. I did 3 piece crown molding below the soffit on my front porch at least 15 years ago with interior grade wood and it's still in perfect condition, because I back primed everything on all 6 sides of each board. If you don't do the back priming and just rely on caulking, water will eventually get behind it and rot it from the inside out. It will usually take a long time before you can see the damage that is occurring. Most people refuse to do it because it doesn't look any different when the job is done. Caulking is good and important but it will not replace back priming. You will easily get past your warranty period if that's the only thing you care about, but it will eventually cause it to fail in some areas at least if it is subjected to very much weather. If you live in the desert it may not be necessary I don't know, but in the midwest where we get a lot of rain and snow it makes a big difference.

[@allanwalli2935]

Thanks for that…priming or painting the whole piece makes perfect sense. No moisture infiltration, no rot.

[@allanwalli2935]

I do metal roofing. Keeping the water OUT is the prime thing. Once it penetrates, without opportunity to dry, its a problem you might not find until its a real issue. Wide temperature and humidity swings where I am too.

[@primeracalidad8320]

True tradesman knowledge and integrity.

[@brettb614]

I disagree about back priming. Well it certainly will help It can't stop water coming in through the nail holes from the installation, and installing trim under and protect it overhang is not a good test of a system's performance. Install everything per specification and then maintain it properly through the years. This is the simple secret to success. Stop blaming builders when you refuse to do proper preventative maintenance. Do you blame Ford if you never change your oil and your engine grenades? Of course not, it's the same thing with your builder. And just like Ford if you're builder installs his systems correctly, they will perform as intended in last 4 years. Unless preventative maintenance is not performed. This is the single biggest culprit I've seen over the last 30 plus years in the industry. Calk and paint your houses! Only use quality caulk.

[@narmale]

concrete sealer works amazing on raw wood as well

[@michaelchurchill1889]

Tyvek actually falls apart and crumbles after about 25yrs , especially on the east side of sun exposed wall-felt paper works better.

[@wty1313]

Studies have shown the disintegration occurs if the builder left the wrap exposed to the sun for 30 days or more. The UV light destroys the binders, then it's a slow roll to powdering. The process generally takes 20 to 30 years and it doesn't matter if it's covered once the damage is done. Tyvek et. al now have warnings about leaving it exposed for a long period before cladding.

[@jamesortolano3983]

Lol " Buy once cry once " 😂 As a child of a building family , carpenter s and masons from the 70's to 90's I always used 30lb . Felt rolls mechanically fastened w/3/8" copper staples. And every body always cried about the staples cost at some point generic steel staples were them the norm 😮 Today with zip systems , other membranes of adhesive based products, nd liquid applied coating s are the only truly correct way to build in the 21st century... Your post was definitive to all that build to last . My son now lives in the home my father built, other than me installing a new bathroom recently, its still solid .

[@hariman7727]

The version of that saying I've heard is "Do it once, do it right."

[@MrBaconis]

Corded hammer drill to install vinyl siding at 4:31? Am I missing something? :)

[@mattwhisnant5926]

Awesome. I’ve wondered about this many times. Our current house is a 1968 brick ranch with tar paper, and it’s been golden. Lots of new construction around here develops moisture and mold problems. I’ve long suspected house wrap as the culprit.

[@wallace3953]

OF COURSE IT IS THE CRAPPY, LEAKING HOUSE WRAP....TAR PAPER IS BULLET PROOF, BY COMPARISON!

[@nofascists]

That, more than likely is an installation of the entire exterior wall assembly issue than the actual house wrap product.

[@brettb614]

House wrap is not the culprit. The number one culprit is lack of homeowner maintenance, followed by a small percentage of incorrect installations. Typically if a product is installed incorrectly it will fail quickly. Lack of maintenance takes years to cause damage and by the time the damage is realized major damage has resulted. Inspect, caulk and paint your house! Only use high quality caulk, no latex. OSU Quad is what I use.

[@lc3853]

@@brettb614 "I only use high quality caulk, no latex." You sound like my wife.

[@w6qw52]

My last home was new construction with a Tyvek house wrap under a foam barrier followed by a stucco finish. The first rain storm resulted in myriad leaks. After lots of investigation, the builder agreed that all the exterior had to be replaced - stripped down to the wood sheeting. That builder rebuilt the exterior starting with (so called) tar-paper. All leakage resolved. The stucco contractor later conceded that all his commercial building jobs specified tar-paper while the home builders mostly specified poly-wraps.

[@5packplus2]

Why is there not yet a spray on solution? I can imagine a substance similar to rhino liner being used. Tape the joints before or after.

[@jessederks8458]

Jump to 3:44 to not waste your time in some ways. Also note that, like Tyvek house wrap, using something like Zip System (or similar) you have to tape over fasteners. So, really, if you're installing either you're just fine as long as you follow the directions. Note: The exposure (uncovered) time of items like Zip System are lower than the exposure (uncovered) time of something like Tyvek. Check with the manufacturer and then make dang sure you get it covered beforehand. Nothing is quite as fun as having to rip off the sheeting due to running out of exposure time!

[@mikemargheret3174]

Ha. You could always house wrap the zip system at that point. lol. Zip is garbage in my opinion.

[@bobcaygeon975]

Use zip system so Matt Rye-zinger can get his kickback.

[@phamlam3720]

Did he hurt your feelings by talking about building science?

[@paulsosa1872]

I painted my sheathing in that pink stuff used for bathrooms

[@KolyaYusenko]

😂😂😂

[@nexusebtuoy]

​@@phamlam3720 a build schemer, a corporate 🐀 payed accordingly 😂 the usual influencers liars & manipulators.

[@rustyshackle917]

​@@phamlam3720 lol that guy is not a scientist. He is quite the salesman (i.e. liar) though. Keep watching his commercials thinking you are learning and not being sold products 😂

[@a104917]

Was always skeptical of house wrap, glad to see an in depth analysis of its weaknesses. Thanks for the perspective!

[@jamescrud]

House wrap isn't the problem. The way the contractors install it is the problem and the manufacturer of the product is to blame for instructing them to staple it directly to the sheathing. This is completely incorrect. Tyvek and other wraps should be used as a rain screen only and should never touch sheathing. It should be stretched taught and stapled to 3/8" thick vertical furring strips nailed to the sheathing. This creates a vented space between the back side of the Tyvek and and sheathing. If water ever gets past the Tyvek it just drips down the back side and never touches the sheathing. I did it this way on my shop 20 years ago and the siding, sheathing, and house wrap are in perfect condition. Contractors and builders would never do it this way because it's more time consuming but it's to the detriment of the home owner unfortunately. If you want something done right you have to do it yourself...if you have the knowledge of course.

[@a104917]

@@jamescrud If we have to blame both the installer AND the manufacturer, shouldn't we conclude there has to be a better way and leave wrap in the past?

[@civildk9077]

Great video. I'm simply a homeowner. Short, sweet, to the point. Earned another subscriber. I merely watch these videos to learn what I'm looking at when I see buildings under construction. I'm a former public works foreman / engineers aid.

[@loganschlabach3899]

I live in Southern Michigan, home was built in 1960, behind by original wood shingles is a drywall type sheathing, not sure if it’s a special kind that won’t degrade if wet or if it was just cheaper at the time to use. Did some remodeling and found insulation in walls completely dry even behind windows jambs.

[@kylemacht]

I was curious about how furring strips, in the form of a rainscreen, impact your thoughts on a specification. We prefer to specify self-adhered products like Adhero or something like ZIP, but that doesn't always happen for one reason or another and we end up with Mento 1000 over plywood. I feel more confident in a non-self-adhered product if it isn't penetrated by the siding fasteners and doesn't have water sitting up against it, especially if there is exterior insulation. In this scenario, I would have the plywood as the air control layer instead of the membrane. Thanks for putting out good quality building science videos. Kyle

[@carldelzer2053]

I used Tyvek on my new build, simply because I have a rain screen installed around the entire surface of the exterior of my home. Then installed cedar shakes. There is literally no water reaching the Tyvek. I also spray foamed my entire house, so moisture would never be pulled into my home.

[@drkies]

So what about asphalt paint? I recently have begun working with this for exterior items. I've used it on fences, outdoor cabinets or storage, and recently even used it on metal stove pipe. Seeing how sheathing is about $17 vs 38 for zip... Would this not be viable?

[@sampsalol]

That wall dissection at 3:23 looks pretty bad to me. That's a bad design that is almost guaranteed to result in mold growth on the sheathing, we tried that in the 70s here in Finland and that is not up to code these days and you won't get a building permit with that design. The correct way to use a vapor barrier is to use thick plastic between the gypsum board and the batt insulation. The plastic vapor barrier is taped from all seams and tested with a vacuum device that measures the delta p between outside and inside the house so you know you have an airtight barrier. In my house built last year the wall structure is 20mm gypsum board, 50mm batt insulation, plastic vapor barrier with all seams and holes taped up, 200mm batt insulation, 15mm gypsum sheathing board, 50mm air gap, 23mm wood cladding board.

[@tkmad7470]

Good video! When you use a self adhesive product do you recommend a primer to promote adhesion?

[@phillippinson5333]

Doing new home construction in the 80s as a young teen I called this out.Its just damn COMMON SENSE....That unfortunately is not just not common anymore but rare.

[@bobcaygeon975]

In Texas they're using cardboard walls and its completely within code.

[@ASIRIDesigns]

@@bobcaygeon975 What does that tell you about the code?

[@1packatak]

How does that work with the humidity? Or if it gets wet with a hurricane?? Makes no sense.

[@bobcaygeon975]

@1packatak When Matt Rye- singer isn't shilling for zip greenboard, he did a video on the cardboard walls.

[@grisza77]

Have you considered brick and mortar walls?

[@OGRustinMac]

How about using the old school tar paper?

[@nofascists]

I read many comments here. I agree with some, not others. Building science is a real thing that needs to be understood. Old houses were very drafty and not insulated well by today's standards. Moisture in the exterior wall assembly, over time, would evaporate. There were no building codes. When homes became insulated better and made more air tight, that created new problems. Interior, impermeable poly vapor barriers were required by code. Moisture condenses on warm surfaces. Think of a glass of ice water on a hot summer day. Moisture condenses on the warm side of the glass. That's where the DEW POINT is. It changes depending on the thickness and the difference in temperature between cold air and warm air. In a 6" wall assembly when its -30 outside and +70 inside (that's a 100 degree temperature differential) in 6") the dew point moves closer to the warm surface in that 6", hense the impermeable poly vapor barrier being closest to the warm side of the exterior wall assembly. DEAD, UNINSULATED AIR SPACES ARE THE KILLER ie; tiny gaps in fiberglass batt insulation, electrical outlet and switch boxes. Then air exchange systems were required in new construction, intended to mechanically replace interior air with exterior air and control humidity in the structure because, theoretically, they were so air tight. Some comments here seem to neglect the fact that siding is intended to be installed over house wrap and rain will get behind the housewrap. That's not the issue. If water gets behind the siding it's an installation issue, not a product issue. Condensation is an entirely separate and more important issue especially in cold climates. I can assure you that, whether Zip or housewrap, if every tiny gap is insulated, preventing DEAD AIR spaces, cold air will find a surface to condense on depending on the difference between inside and outside air, and it will be on the warm side of that surface. Ideally, there would be no dead air gaps or voids anywhere. In reality, it's an installation issue, whether Zip or housewrap, and more related to the insulation than anything else.

[@rozorahk]

In BC (rainy af) regular tyvek isn’t good enough for commercial builds. They have to buy upgraded versions of domestic house wraps. Tells you everything you need to know.

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

1:17 Tyvek didn't become mainstream till the 90's

[@jackspencer8290]

This was my understanding too.

[@benoithudson7235]

That would be when the patents would have expired.

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

@ true, houses I saw being built in the 70's and 80's were not using Tyvek type house wraps. What I saw the most was tar paper.

[@TheCookster64]

I did a lot of homework on this. I recently re-sheathed a mobile home. I used ZIP system. The biggest reason was the longevity of the product as I won't be able to put up the vinyl siding over it this year. ZIP will last until I can get that installed next Spring. You don't have to be worried about the vapor barrier being on the outside in the North. If the vapor and moisture can't get into the walls in the first place you're good to go. Don't over think it.

[@tomkelly8827]

Sitting here in Ontario it sounds like a gimmick to me but maybe where it is warmer and wetter this would become more of an issue? My favourite now is to sheet the house with foam board and tape the seams. It works great and that continuous insulation is a real game changer!

[@andreycham4797]

If your Ontario is in Florida or Texas, it is totally fine to put foam boards on the exterior side. If it is in Canada you do not want to trap vapor inside walls with that foam

[@Richard-nb4iv]

At least the last decade, we in the construction industry have seen the vapour barrier move from the inside to the outside with the foam board and a blue skin type product before the brick fascia. Similar to what you have described. I have been in the building envelope building trade since at least 1988. Before that Reno's with my dad.

[@andreycham4797]

@@Richard-nb4iv they say the climate is changing I just could not think it is changing so fast

[@Richard-nb4iv]

@@andreycham4797 I dont believe moving the vapour barrier to the outside is because of global change. I belive the condensation gets trapped inside the wall cavity because of the interior vapour barrier. The results would vary greatly on workmanship of course.

[@andreycham4797]

@@Richard-nb4iv you did not clarify the climate you are in so since you mentioned the standard practice used to be to put vapor barrier on inside I assumed it is colder climate. My question is what happens to the laws of physics in your area, vapor does not move from hot to cold any more?

[@johnroberts3824]

I've seen a lot of comments regarding "if they would just follow the manufacturer's installation guidelines". Got me thinking that we need products that are reliable, forgiving, and easy to install without the need to read a bunch of fine-print installation tips and warnings. If whiz-bang only works when carefully installed, then in the end whiz-bang isn't going to work.

[@blairleighton3343]

Just curious, how would a sprayed on sealant coating applied to the sheathing/ plywood/ OSB hold up?

[@rheuss1]

Tar paper is less prone to rot from water intrusion because it’s not wind resistant. Mostly depends on lap of paper same as tyvek. Most carpenters don’t take the time to properly install either. The most important part for long life is installation.

[@Maynardd]

Agreed, if you’re using vinyl siding over tar/felt paper backing, your house will be incredibly drafty. but, whatever water gets behind the siding will absolutely dry out and not be trapped. you have to choose one or the other.

[@rogerwilco2]

How is this even legal? I am always surprised about the poor building quality and materials used in North American construction. Why build houses out of wood and then make them look as if they are built out of brick? Why not use brick to begin with? "Brick veneer" should not be a thing.

[@normansawatzky4778]

...because it's expensive!

[@lucash1980]

It is worse than that. Some buildings going up in Toronto have a frame that is insulated and covered with large panels that are cut to look like brick-- it is not even a stone veneer that provides some solar protection and thermal mass. It is all fake!

[@ObsceneSuperMatt]

Do you want a 1200 sqft rancher to cost $2 million instead of $1 million? Houses are already out of most people's reach without increasing costs further.

[@davidjames4915]

Why build a house out of brick and then add a brick veneer? Does that seem like a dumb question? Well... it's not because that's exactly how brick houses are built: there are two brick walls, separated by a gap that was usually air but could also be insulation. To call it the outer brick "veneer" is to further misunderstand what the point of the outer layer is for: that's your building cladding. So the brick cladding on a wood frame house is serving the exact same purpose as the outer brick wall on a brick house. And brick itself is not a terribly good material for building anyway. Where 'masonry' construction is the norm you tend more often to see concrete blocks for the inner wall even if the eventual building has brick cladding.

[@abacab87]

Brick doesn't insulate well, and is hard to remodel. Every house I work on has had major remodel work done about every 30 years. Walls taken out, doors moved, bedrooms added, etc. It's much easier with wood. If properly maintained, it lasts just as long. The real problem is the foundation. I've never seen the problems this video talks about with tyvek and a little bit of air infiltration is a good thing, it's why there wasn't ever problems with mold in the old buildings. Personally I've been putting foil faced foam over plywood sheeting and I haven't had any problems with either moisture or rot. Good ventilation in the home is important.

[@robgfmb1814]

Builder for 3 decades and grew up in a family of constructors.Structural Technologist that understands building envelope concerns. To stop mould, you need to take away what supports it. Its that simple. Mould grows in dark moist warm environments with oxygen. Prevent mould by: - taking away moisture; - adding light - make environment cold - take away oxygen. We really cant take away oxygen but you can seal out oxygen. This would be a spray product on the wood that eliminates access to air. Or build in orbit. Best to just seal the substrate. Reduce vapour with a vapour barrier. This is by far the best way to stop mould in cold climates. Build your building tight so its like a space station. No air or vapour leakage anywhere, even around your windows and electricL plugs. Once that indoor air cools off, it cant hold moisure and it rains/ fogs/ dew forms inside your wall, and mould likes moisture. Stop allowing driving rain into your wall. Every exterior system isnt waterproof. Assume wayter gets in. How do you make sure that water gets out? Furr out your siding and stucco wire. Just like masonry bricks, makad sure there is a gap so dry air and gravity can move that rain out. TLDR; stop mould by preventing its growth by removing either oxygen, moisture, or nutrients. This is done by leaving an air gap so water drains out, having an airtight house to prevent condensation, and using sheathing that mould cannot grow on.

[@bryceblack563]

My understanding is that Tyvek and other house wrap products are designed to resist air infiltration and water permeation from the outside, but "breathe" enough to allow water vapor to escape. If water is getting into the wall from the outside, then the siding is not correctly installed. If water is getting into the wall cavity from the inside, then there needs to be a good, tight vapor barrier installed. Here's my ideal: a tight vapor barrier inside, with all seams and openings taped. Walls of double 2x4s with thermal break between, 10" insulation. Exterior sheathing of plywood or OSB or good ol' boards. House wrap on that. Vertical 1x2 nailers over the house wrap, siding over that. The space between siding and house wrap should have a screened intake vent along the bottom and at the top, be vented into the soffit.This system would hopefully prevent warm, moist interior air from migrating into the wall where it can reach the dew point and condense; but if moisture does get into the wall, it can breathe to the outside.

[@vyvianalcott1681]

Holy shit you're a good communicator, well done thank you for being so information dense!

[@thenextpoetician6328]

Hempcrete or dustcrete construction have won me over in that order. I will say this, it's been longer that I've been turned off Tyvek, however any synthetics are really dirty, upstream and down. I was an insulator in the patch and did a bunch of reno and rough for others mostly. Now I'm old enough to just shake my head and smile. Dad was a museum quality builder, designer, architect, etc ... Some of that rubbed off just fine. :)

[@sigmund1955]

35 years of remodel in Puget Sound and I can't count the times I've torn off rotten, rain sodden siding to reveal tar paper over wood sheathing where the wood was dry and looked as good as the day it was built. Tar paper seals around fasteners and doesn't allow the moisture to pass into the sheathing. I'll be using 15lb felt over cdx with a 1/2 in furring space under stucco on my latest project.

[@bopodoq3069]

The problem with house wrap is that it is susceptible to damage during installation and doesn’t encourage good workmanship. The recommendation of peel-and-stick, fluid applied, or integral to sheathing is 100% the best solution. All three approaches have full structural backing, making them more durable and easier to detail and install to a higher quality level. Paying more for your WRB/ air barrier is the best investment you can make in a house.

[@brentchristopher7363]

Lately we’ve been getting these ungodly rain falls, that many times with the high winds, it sounds and feels like the house is going through a hurricane. I’m tempted to remove some siding to see if there is any leaking onto the Tyvek sheet. Live in Wisconsin.

[@koreym777]

Can I use this stuff for window tape too or would you still tape over it?

[@ArnieReisdorf]

Tyvek is not building code in Canada to cold up here; we use lots of Hilo exterior or interior insulation that don't need a house wrap or poly on the inside exterior wall.

[@hankgriffin5397]

I was a siding contractor for 20 years and experienced all there stupid ness over the years, it’s simple IT NEEDS TO BREATH so because I was forced to use house wrap I NEVER USED ANY TAPE this seamed to work because it was breathing I also believe California stucco should be outlawed

[@lightning9279]

What's your choice to put over ICF??? 👍

[@andreycham4797]

I bet it depends on your budget

[@TheHowtoDad]

what your thoughts on a WRB over plywood with comfortboard exterior insulation? The specific wall system I am asking about is exterior cladding fixed to strapping over comfortboard. Behind the comfortboard is the WRB, then the exterior sheathing and the interior insulated wall. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that type of assembly

[@ASIRIDesigns]

@@TheHowtoDad Great assembly, we actually have a whole video on this exact wall: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKi4m56Jn9GfhtUfeature=shared

[@TheHowtoDad]

@@ASIRIDesigns watching it now. thanks

[@justinstevenson2061]

One thing I always wonder, and there are people that believe strongly on either side, isn’t it better to put tyvek on the outside of the insulation to stop air from speeding heating/cooling of the insulation? So many studies done and pretty well everyone agrees that air movement reduces insulations effectiveness, like batts in the wall cavity. So being those batts at least have plywood and they are affected by bad exterior air sealing, wouldn’t the exterior insulation ESPECIALLY when strapping add to this? Of course strapping it helps drainage, and one of the other big bonuses is it can speed the drying of the housewrap, for moisture coming from with the wall cavity. That added airflow over the insualtion would surely reduce its effectiveness right? Why not the exterior insulation , and then the tyvek. Properly installed it’ll waterproof the insulation (I know most foam and mineral wool is good with moisture) but why not? And then it’s stops the airflow lowering effectiveness. Stops the moisture from over time degrading or possibly mould if a very humid rainy environment (maybe between strapping and insulation where it didn’t dry as much). As you say in the video, we all know water gets being siding. Why let it run on the insulation? I just don’t see the negative, the home is still waterproof and CI and to me performing better? Any opinions on this?

[@justinstevenson2061]

And I know mineral wool and foam aren’t as susceptible to air movement as fibreglass. I’m just thinking even like any bottle etc. not factoring sun but just the difference in how fast a thermos or anything will cool in the same times one with wind and one without. Not movement through as much. As poor Vapor barrier sealing and housewrap sealing causes draw to happen through a wall cavity. But just the movement overtop.

[@sapple3946]

So what happens when you nail through the ZIP product to install your cladding? You don’t discuss this. Same issues as holes in Tyvec I bet.

[@theglassishalf]

Your videos are always so incredibly useful. If you (or the experts who watch your videos) have any guidance...I'm working on an extension to a not-well-insulated 100-year-old building, and am using 1 inch foil-faced (radiant barrier) EPS sheets as exterior insulation, plus r20 mineral wool in the cavity.. I was planning on taping the seams of the EPS and using that as my vapor barrier. Is there any reason to put tar paper or anything else on the OSB sheeting beneath?

[@ASIRIDesigns]

@@theglassishalf Interesting building condition, I'd have to look at the greater context before I gave you an answer. Where is the project located?

[@theglassishalf]

@@ASIRIDesigns We are located in the Pacific Northwest, specifically Bellingham. Thanks! Putting this on in the next couple days! :)

[@kamimaza]

Have you done analysis in WUFI?

[@devmeistersuperprecision4155]

Complex subject. In CO the enemy is wind. Hearing systems like radiant floor work very slowly. So it takes time to kick start a system from a cold start. With excessive air exchanges, the system can’t keep up. So sealing the house is needed. In Vermont, we have hot humid summers and cold wet winters with humidity. Tyvek is not plastic. It can breathe and allow water vapor to pass thru slowly. The issue with fiberglass is that a wall cell can move a lot of air which kills its R value. A closed cell foam works better. XPS extruded foam is one of the best followed by EPS foam. I am a timber framer. In the old days they did wrap and strap. You begin with interior paneling followed by tar paper and fir strapping. Now you often see SIPs used. SIPs are a great system but the exterior is OSB and the joints are foam sealed with closed cell foam insulation. The first major complaint is that tyvek does not work that well with SIPs. The foam is a barrier. So the OSB under the exterior sheathing is at risk. You really should do something to insure air flow under your sheathing with weep holes near the sill. Tar paper had been a go to for generations. Used to snub hard wood flooring, an underlayment for roofing, and a moisture and draft barrier in walls. When new, it’s pliable. But in about 30 years heat and UV exposure can dry it out. But if left alone, it continues to work for a long time. It’s readily available and cheap. It’s easy to work with. I think the best approach is to use a ZIP style OSB to fabricate the SIPs for the long haul. I am semi retired and building a new shop and home. I am avoiding OSB as I can. My exterior siding is T&G board and batten. I am likely just going to old school it. Tar paper wrap and strap with XPS foam and copper flashing. These structures have lasted 200 plus years. The siding is attached to the strapping which locks in the foam with no framing cold spots. Slate roofs differ from asphalt modern roofs in that they depend on side lap and head lap for waterproofing. Ice dams are controlled by higher pitches. A slate roof can go 200 plus years. No bitch-a-thane product will last that long! That is also why copper is used here including copper nails.air flow under the decking and strapping protects the decking. So if I have to use OSB on exterior sheathing, you are better off using a ZIP style product. There are about three companies now making a similar product.

[@TedRitchie-cz5pu]

recently renovated the exterior of a 20 year old 6500 square foot house and all the tyvec was at the end of its life. my first house had no insulation in the walls and the exterior was sheeted with 3/4 inch tentest and aluminum clad pressboard siding. i completely stripped the house , new windows and doors , added vapor barrier, r12 in the walls and sheeted the exterior with 1 inch SM board all sealed up nice. my heating bill was 150 a month before and 140 a month after. so if i live there for 1000 years i’d see a return on my investment!

[@KevinMaxwell-o3t]

I'll add one more thing: the widespread use of OSB is a big mistake, as is minimal roof overhang. OSB simply isn't appropriate for any home meant to last; its only plus is the price. Get it wet and it crumbles. Plywood has to get wet and stay wet for a long, long time before it decomposes. I have never used OSB and never will. It's trash. And why is it so difficult to understand the need for decent roof overhangs? After all, we're trying to keep the rain out, right? Well, aren't we? I have never built anything with less than a 36 inch overhang, not even a chicken house, and my super-insulated solar home has 42 inch overhangs. I fail to understand why the need for substantial overhangs is so hard to grasp.

[@lotklear]

Gotta disagree about OSB. All the science and my experience is that both OSB and plywood suffer when exposed to moisture. Perhaps in different ways, but roughly equivalent. Can you offer any science on this topic? I understand your experience is to not trust OSB. Thanks for your comments about extended eaves.

[@hadrianlaing7251]

Great video (as always!) Was just talking with a Spec writer on this topic while going to site. In Canada, he told me about some recent legal disputes regarding Tyvek house wrap performance.

[@ASIRIDesigns]

@@hadrianlaing7251 Thank you! Id be interested to look into these legal disputes

[@AgnesMariaL]

Hubby took a knife to the tyvek on his house after the one inspection and before installing the cladding, slashing it all over to allow the house to breathe. By then, he had worked in residential long enough to see houses not even twenty years old rot away because of that stuff!

[@PeakUnlimited]

Installers can sometimes rush the installation of Tyvek .ect. and puncture this barrier with the faulty fasteners and not taping every seam correctly on a regular basis. Then install siding over these small puncures and gaps. No one knows until a heavy wind driven rain hits this area and then water is inside your wall looking for a place to go down. If you see water dripping from the top of a window the Tyvek install is likely the cause. Especially on new costruction. Look for stains inside window casings when buying.

[@Sjwolosz321]

In my 43 years as a crapenter .. The killer of a house is water !! . You can get Tyvek put on so cleanly that it looks like it was done with and iron . What good is it if the flashing sucks ?? head flashing , kickout flashing , sill flashing .. IMHO .. There are so many coffin corners on ornate expensive homes . That all the clean housewrap install causes more damage had it never been there in the first place

[@garyenwards1608]

What are your thoughts on BP Canada R-1.5 Panel Wall Sheathing Panel 1/2IN. Costs 9 bucks Canadian here locally. Has an asphalt outer coating. The old neighbor has something similar that his house is made of from the 1930s. Claims its great stuff and hasnt deteriorated in the close to 100 years its been in the house his father built and he now lives in.

[@Sjwolosz321]

@@garyenwards1608 Never heard of it .. Might have seen it but nowadays with a piece of wood called an Illudium q-36 space continuum modulating sheet .Can't say . I will say though .. Some of these fancy new ways to skin a cat in the end cause more harm than with what has worked for a thousand years

[@FreshCityVentures]

@@garyenwards1608I don’t know if someone that considers himself a “crapenter” in a KZbin comment section would be my first choice to seek professional advice. His response to you solidifies my opinion.

[@garyenwards1608]

@@FreshCityVentures I don't trust a man doesn't call himself a crapenter

[@borispetkau1246]

I'm building post frame shop with living Quader outside is metal siding, which material you would suggest between metal siding and insulation? The envelope is already there. Should I install some kind of fabric to the 2x6 strapping from inside between posts?

[@joesakal872]

Hydrogap SA by Benjamin Obdyke (self adhering), seals against penetrations.

[@jimalspach8528]

Thanks for your critical opinion on house wrap. Take a look at the Griffin One house plan and video available from the undergrad library at Purdue University. It's a collaborative effort from five PhD's. It pioneered super sealing and super insulation. Cheers

[@1FastKawboy]

I switched to plywood that already has a coating. You must tape them as recommended, but way easier to deal with. But some jobs just have different needs and challenges, so don't rule anything out.

[@macthemec]

My brother did the blue peel and stick on his house reno, it added $5000 onto his $100k reno, so 5% price increase for a self sealing barrier, really not a huge investment for a much better product

[@MrSteeDoo]

$5000 may not be much to you

[@twstvan93]

Unbelievable that builders who have supreme understanding of Vyvek House Wrap and can't stop the industry from using it. It is discouraging when buyers count on their professional home builders and the building codes they follow to be of the highest standard and we learn they are not. Like basement foundations, there should be a spray on rubber seal that is placed on the home's exterior and around windows that has a sealing effect if penetrated with nails, staples or screws.

[@happyhobbit8450]

Cost is a determining factor for me ... I have tar paper already so I'll stick to that. Thank you for the information ... I like that saying "cry once" or "bite the bullet"

[@pseudopetrus]

Got to follow building code. For years I used tar paper, it did work well.

[@whataboutbob7967]

30yrs ago we stopped using tyvek and went back to astm felt paper.

[@garyenwards1608]

What are your thoughts on BP Canada R-1.5 Panel Wall Sheathing Panel 1/2IN. Costs 9 bucks Canadian here locally. Has an asphalt outer coating. The old neighbor has something similar that his house is made of from the 1930s. Claims its great stuff and hasnt deteriorated in the close to 100 years its been in the house his father built and he now lives in.

[@ronnietruman7296]

I live in Minnesota and the stated temperature delta requires R23 to avoid condensation. Can a zipr system be used or would it just drive moisture within the exterior wall?

[@robertalbrecht2748]

I live in Minnesota, the last two homes we built we used the green zipper system I like the coating and the extra foam board added on to the back and then we still added R23 insulation into the 2x6 walls (double insulation) with a plastic vapor barrier. Just have to make sure you take your time and get the seams taped on well. The system has their own specific roller to apply the zipper tape.

[@thefix2573]

I'm skirting a manufactured home in snow country, Central Idaho. Should I use tar paper or tyvek? I am building a 2x4 wall with pressure treated bottom plate lagged to the concrete pad. I have 1/2 inch pressure treat plywood and 1inch eps foam, with roofing metal on top. Z metal on top and D metal drip edge on bottom butyl caulked to the concrete. Should the foam board insulation work as a vapor barrier? Should I add a layer of tyvek over the foam, or add tar paper over the pressure treat plywood before the foam? I realize it isn't heated space and doesn't "need" insulation or a vapor barrier but my water line is 40 feet long under there, it's insulated and has self regulating heat cable, I also have a few hvac truck lines that will provide some heat by convection, relative to 20F temps outside it could stay above freezing if I am running the furnace regularly instead of the wood stove. Building envelope science is complicated.

[@ml16R32]

What is your opinion on the high-performance wraps that go over timber framing without sheathing? For example Solitex Extasana or Hardie Wrap Weather Barrier. Typically in Australia there is also battens added over the wrap then cladding applied. Cheers

[@czerniana]

My house has none of that we found. Or at least the part of the wall we were having to fix. No moisture barrier at all. Fun stuff! We haven’t had the time to go out there and inspect behind the second floor siding more.

[@xokissmekatexo]

As always great Video! Thanks for sharing. Question for you. I was told we can’t use Zip-R here in Utah with earthquakes. Is this true?

[@BoreasCastel]

Houses are being built so badly in my city, you can see serious problems on new builds from the sidewalk. We're way past the point where we need to worry about this, here at least. Here it's more like, does the framing line up with the foundation? Are all of the engineered floor joints.. actually there? Did they install flashing? Did the "carpenter" think spray foam or windows are load-bearing?

[@3er328]

A building needs to breathe.

[@kosh9639]

Most modern Non-woven versions of Tyvek-- have a 1 way membrane design, to let Moisturizer Out.. if, for any reason it gets Damp or wet.. How good is Tyvek after 1 to 30 years?? It's all-in how well they (flashed &) Taped around windows, doors & misc stuff.. xD Both get thin & Brittle when exposed to light & the Elements. 💧❄️🌤 Also, Fiberglass is usually made; from, recycled Glass.. ♻️

[@mistere5857]

No they don't. This is ignorance that came from the a misunderstanding of the science in the 80s and 90s. We've had completely air tight, net zero houses that have been around for 15 years that show no signs of deterioration and maintain the same R values and comfort levels as the day they were built.

[@joe-p9k4n]

That's why people who spend an extra $5000 to make their house air tight have to spend an extra $5000 on an air exchanger.

[@j.79]

​@joe-p9k4n Airtight construction and HRV systems are code in Canada, where I live. They are outrageously expensive to install, cost ~$45 per month in electricity and the result is poor air quality and high humidity that can cause black mold. But, one can always crack a few windows in -40 weather or run a few dehumidifiers for an additional $$ per month. Nowadays, building codes are pushed by big business and big government.

[@madgainz7871]

​@mistere5857 reading here its no wonder there is so many idiots in the trade and as GC. House dont need to breath, fast growth building method are not shittier. This video is just a salesman for zip sheating. No. You only need osb/cdx and tyvek.

[@MurDocInc]

What SA you recommend for double stud wall with vented rain screen, cdx, cellulose and intello? VP100 seems great, high 33 perm, cheaper and widely available.

[@ASIRIDesigns]

@@MurDocInc That's actually one of the ones we recommend, check out our video on double stud walls here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp-TaYJ_faiMadEfeature=shared

[@Mr2blue2]

Rows of 15# felt is the best. Sheds water but also breathes at the joints to dry out moisture. Think fish scales. Don't turn your house into a giant ziplock bag where moisture from Inside also gets trapped. Some air penetration is good!

[@henrycarlson7514]

Interesting , Thank You. Happy Building

[@Codeman785]

3:37 WHERE did you get the picture from 3:37? That is a picture of MY HOUSE, that I posted on reddit asking a question about adding a concrete curb or slope to my sidewalk. How did you get that picture?

[@Dufffaaa93]

He saw your post

[@Codeman785]

@Dufffaaa93 very unlikely, my post had nothing to do with tyvek though. Also it was a small post that received no attention. Yes tyvek is in the photo but still. I've never been so creeped out before

[@manleynelson9419]

​@@Codeman785on the internet things get propagated outside of the topic that you originally posted it. This is just how the internet works

[@nonyabusiness1126]

What's the idle construction type next to a water source or lake?

[@davel4708]

Haven't had any issues with building wrap on plywood behind a ventilated cavity where I live. I know this because I've gone back to a number of old jobs of mine to do new work and found things to be perfectly sound when I've cut into the existing cladding. Been using that system for 20 years. All types of cladding, except for brick which we don't use. I think it's possibly because although it is wet and windy here, the climate is mild. Only about 10'c difference between winter and summer. Our ventilated cavity system was based on the Canadian method. Tyvek is rarely used here. It is hard to stretch tightly enough and the associated tapes are pretty bad. There's much better wraps available. We use bituminous foil covered tapes on all corners and around all openings. That said, The moisture resistant rigid air barriers you describe make up probably 90% of cladding solutions here. Particularly in areas where the climate is more extreme than where I build.

[@garyenwards1608]

What are your thoughts on BP Canada R-1.5 Panel Wall Sheathing Panel 1/2IN. Costs 9 bucks Canadian here locally. Has an asphalt outer coating. The old neighbor has something similar that his house is made of from the 1930s. Claims its great stuff and hasnt deteriorated in the close to 100 years its been in the house his father built and he now lives in.

[@davel4708]

@ I had to look that one up. The closest we'd get to that product would be a pre waterproofed plywood rigid air barrier. I think they use an acrylic sealer. We do still use the bituminous paper on plywood when it's behind steel cladding. Basically everything older than 50 years round here is weatherboard on bituminous paper on studs, with no cavity. When they started using fibre cement board and other different claddings that's when the issues started with leaky houses. This became apparent around 1998 and the code was tightened in 2004. Cost the county billions. As I mentioned we learned from Canada and use basically the same systems here now. New Zealand.

[@garyenwards1608]

@@davel4708 Thank you for the feedback. Ive added bituminous foil tape to my amazon cart as a reminder for when it comes time to frame a new cabin. You use this type of tape to create window flashings?

[@michaeld9682]

When is vapor good? When is vapor bad?

[@trustme7731]

I have never believed in house wrap. And certainly not the similar product used on roofs. My stucco contractor put up felt tar paper, then the expanded metal lath. My roof has 30 pound felt. I also used a 6 mil vapor barrier instead of a 4 mil and all the joints were taped and sealed. Penetrations were foamed. R65 in the attic. This was 35 years ago.

[@LG4U]

Would this approach also work well in Montreal, Canada? (Cold dry winters and hot humid summers)

[@ronbelanger4113]

Never trust any repairs/builds in non heavy snow locations.

[@BachelderMark]

May be vapor barrier, and decent air-barrier, but its not a water-barrier. I did some repairs recently on a 20 year old house, with crasppy siding on a windy foggy hill, near San Francisco. Where water got thru knot-holes in the siding, the Tyvek (yes, that brand) had disintegrated - worthless. I would say the continuous wetness, perhaps for a full rainy season, made it fall apart. I have never had this problem with 15# felt, nor seen in walls I have torn apart. MIght be good under 15# felt as an air barrier, but I would put the tarpaper over it as the water and vapor barrier.

[@chrishouse5753]

Really enjoyed this one and the one talking about vapour bariers and insulation. Any chance you might be able to do a deeper dive into insulating (or "re-insulating") an old home? Your information seems invaluable for a new build but some of us are renovating old homes (50, 100+ years) due to poor insulation or insulation that has degraded over time (animals, settling). I'm going to encapsulate my "new" (old) home crawl space in the spring using some of your advice. Cheers.

[@Inmyopinion987]

I have always found its best insulate put a vapor barrier in the wall stop air flow and slow down the effect of losing radiant heat

[@jeffvw1994]

In my area close to the ocean in the pacific northwest the biggest problem are houses that get pressure washed and never dry out after. All the way to rotten studs. Even 5 year old houses.

[@scanadaze]

Question. Why not just use an oil base paint first? I am going to build my own home. So far. That just makes more sense.

[@firstdaddy]

Beyond having a better WRB, using a rain screen gap between the sheathing and the exterior cladding is best. Remember, if it can't dry, it's going to die.