I'm mid-rebuild of a Puch ZA50, this is a lot! Things I am learning

[@Corn-ped]

ooooooo! I am planing a ZA50 Rigid swinger build! Is that the plan?

[@TravisTutorial]

It ALMOST was! I decided to put this motor back on the Maxi it came with after all since I'm planning on riding it often.

[@charlesrknottsjr]

What did you do with the timing.

[@TravisTutorial]

That'll be part 3, I'm going to aim for 16 degrees BTDC

[@matthewnorton6468]

Hey Travis, would you ever provide virtual consults?

[@jerrycabarloc3728]

Did you have to heat up the spacer on the output shaft to remove the shaft from the case?

[@moldiebrownie]

What kind of gearing you thinking about Travis?

[@TravisTutorial]

So factory gearing of 18 x 40 will net me over 11,000 rpm at 50mph according to Mary's garage gearing calculator. toolbox.martysgarage.info/ If I can find a 38 for the snowflake mag wheel, I might drop to that which will put me at right around 10,000rpm at 50mph which we'll see if I can even get with a mild pipe. Can't go much bigger in the front without grinding the case, which I'd prefer not to do!

[@moldiebrownie]

@@TravisTutorial I’m doing 19x36 and Marty puts me at 9500 at 50mph with still decent take off, flipped second and using 0W20. Gonna next red spring first gear clutch for a little more take off slip. I used to have a stock 50cc and had it geared to 18x42 to try and get a little more take off. I left this gearing in place when I went to 65cc (case matched) with a 15 Bing and wholly F that thing would wheelie off the line so I eventually settled on 19x36 to gain top speed and lower rpms. There is lots of meat on the case to grind so you can go up to 19 or 20 on front sprocket, just grind and use a short piece of chain to test it. Thank you for all the wonderful vids Travis, wish I had the Snowflake sprocket to gift ya.

[@TravisTutorial]

Oh that's good to hear about the case! Definitely easier to get a gear for the case than it is for wheel, though treats does have a 37 tooth for the snowflake I am eyeing. I'm excited to rip on this thing with a kit, glad you've enjoyed the videos over the years :D

[@moldiebrownie]

@@TravisTutorialI think I even remember guy doing a 22 on MA but I think he peeked through a little and ended up JB welding it so ya, that seems to be the limit I think. Looking forward to your future ZA vids and jealous of your factory tools, they are extremely helpful for proper shimming I didn’t have the bigger trans tool ( bought the MLM crank tool though) so I had to use plasti gauge which I’m familiar with. I’m an old VW air cooled guy. Plast gauge was a real PITA because it requires multiple applications to get the trans shims right. I had to remove the trans cover countless times after torquing the cover down, then reading the squished plastic to see how many thousands of and inch I was away from getting the right spec. I did it over and over and eventually the nice stainless counter sunk stainless hex screws I bought failed and I couldn’t torque them down to proper spec anymore. I had to go back to my original Phillips hex screws, I was sad because they were so pretty. I know treats now sells the MLM trans cover shim tool, ( I know you got it too from past vids). I took my cover off curious to shed how accurate my last plasti guage shim job went and yea I was out of spec. Having the tool will save you allot of time when you get to that part of the rebuild. Wish I had it sooner. Keep the vids coming!

[@moldiebrownie]

I wanted to add, with the new MLM trans cover tool, I was able to land .004 and I think I remember .002 is the tightest you can be. Had to purchase a few shims from treats to get there though but yeah, I’m not gonna pop out my bearings if you know what I mean?

[@sunsky469]

Hey Travis!! Do you think you can make a quick video on how to wire an external condenser? Some of the posts on MA contradict each other and short the condenser to ground. I’m tired of having bad spark

[@TravisTutorial]

Ah that is a good video idea - in the meantime, it is easier than people make it out to be. 1 Remove flywheel, snip the two wires going to the old condenser and join them together. 2 Take your new condenser, attach it to the coil (most are self grounding), then take the one other wire and jam it into the terminal block with the blue* wire from the stator for power. *usually blue :) you want the power wire

[@tylerm124]

Do you leave the inner race out when doing the transmission side float measuring?

[@steverandall5814]

I can see where the 3-piece bearings and shims would allow you to place them exactly where you wanted them...my question is why? Why not just use ordinary ball bearings like everyone else? This set-up must have been a big bottleneck in the assembly line back in the day.

[@TravisTutorial]

Yeah it's definitely a hassle, very early Tomos A3's also had the 3 piece bearing, there is one in my area. Thankfully they got on the one piece bearing train pretty quickly. It just so happens that the day before I post this video, treats started selling an experimental bearing that supposedly fits closely on the stator side, maybe we are close to a better solution: www.treatland.tv/puch-ZA50-super-hacker-special-bearing-ignition-p/kawasaki-92045-1334.htm

[@Arron01]

Im doing a za50 rebuild right now. With the output shaft, mine moves but feels like it has a bit of drag because of the seal. Its not stuck but is noticeably dragging. Im curious if the seal will wear itself down on the ID or if im going to have to replace it entirely