I MADE A MISTAKE & CHAINS ARE CAUSING DAMAGE! 🤬🚜

[@rp1645]

Thank you for seeing the chain put on with the outside link hitting the Tire.(Believe me, they indented the plow trucks tires we did that by accident too) May I suggest it in my Humble opinion. Go to a local carpet store to see if they have Carpet SQUARE, or just throw away from a piece that's been sitting. Just see if they have FREE carpet remnants. Just lay them down ONLY where rear tires contact cement. We had an ice Rain come in., Just yesterday. The mail truck was only one out. They even shut down the major Airport. Anyway, noticed that on pavement the mail truck did the same thing to the street, that happened to your NICE clean great looking, don't want dinged up cement floor. Just an idea. Also sense you sell tractor and tool attachments. Can you afford to have a TIRE already with good security CHAINS on old tires that tread is gone, maybe. Then just change out the rear tires. Just another thought or idea. Don't feel bad about the chain on backwards, you know how many times I have Laying them out WRONG. Went all through install And getting to the last link hook up. Then I noticed them backwards. I did it too many times to count, putting on chain after chain on the rear wheel duel 12 yard plow dumps. All the time with the supervisor yelling. These trucks MUST get out!! On another note. What do you think of those (magnetic Engine OIL pan heaters) I just bought one for my 8V-71 Detroit Diesel Engine. I saw that outside tractor starting very cold blooded.?????? I want to see if my baby STARTS more easily in this cold weather we have been hit hard with. A BIG Merry Christmas to you my tractor friend

[@philm9750]

I’ve used chains in the past and they have ground off some spots in the driveway or sidewalk the when turning and when snow plowing. Snow build up can stop the tractor and rear tires slip. You’ll see the marks especially in the summer when the snow melts. I don’t plow neighbors sidewalks or driveway with chains since they may not like the damage from the chains. I use a composite plow edge so I don’t scratch the concrete with the snow plow blade.

[@williamevans7326]

I’ve cleared snow for in town businesses for about 30 years. My normal configuration is a material bucket and a rear blade with no shoes on either. Most of the time I’m back dragging and shoes would prevent an even down pressure across my cutting edges. Back dragging allows my fixed bucket and blade (no trip springs) to ride over manhole covers, loose asphalt, concrete joints, and stones without picking them up. When dealing with stone surfaces specifically: Unless I’m clearing a long road, I generally back drag my blade traveling in reverse to avoid packing snow under my wheels. A mound of packed snow is difficult to lift without lifting stuck stone too. I set my top link to make the back of the blade vertical on the snow side with the cutting edge rolling under. The amount of down pressure I use varies with the looseness of the surface material. If it is very light round material like pea stone I run the blade a few inches above the stone. On heavy packed locking stone like three quarter Septic I can usually float the full weight of a heavy duty 6 foot blade. If you get the roll and pressure right most stone will roll and pack under the blade. If the stone is still being pushed / plowed forward by the weight of the snow being pushed over it, I will cut the majority of the snow off with the bucket first. On very loose stone I will back drag the bucket at a low angle applying down pressure to pack the remaining snow over the surface. When dealing with stone I use my bucket mainly to back drag snow out into the open and for packing the surface. I run Ag tires so I usually take the extra step of back dragging my bucket out of the work area to remove my tracks. When cutting forward on stone (top cutting deep snows or piling) I keep my bucket about 2 ½ inches off the surface and make slight height adjustments by rolling it. I never float my bucket when cutting on stone preferring a precise cut height that can be packed and minimizing the chance of digging in. In general, there is always some stone that is picked up. The lighter, looser, and rounder the stone the more the potential for and care needed to prevent it. To minimize any post cleanup I always try to make my piles over the work surface. That said, I have found back dragging to be the best approach to clearing snow off stone surfaces. Where you have a rear blower you could easily remove a deep top layer of snow and then finish with a bucket or blade back drag on your drive. Rather than relying on the blower’s skids I would set your 3 point stop so the blower’s cutting edge was a comfortable height above your stone road. The skids would probably just dig down into the stones and send them flying. In the end, just my take on dealing with stone lots / drives. Hope it helps.

[@lilmichaelcogburn5387]

You should make a tire chain video about different types of tire chains and different uses for them.. your videos are awesome very informative I have learned tons from you and your channel! Thanks for all the work to make the videos!

[@Sundancer268]

I will not give up my 47" Front mounted blower on my 1026R and the Heated TekTite Cab is well worth the cost to keep my old body warm. I will be going out this afternoon to clear my drive after the Blizzard and Lake Effect has had a chance to calm down. Some patches of my drive are bare and some have 2+ feet of snow Expect to spend 2-3 hours clearing out the mess.

[@SuperVorpalbunny]

I use horse stall rubber pads cut lengthwise and put them down in the winter. Like a runway for eash tire. SAves my shop floor.

[@LTVoyager]

That is one of the reasons I plow with my pickup. It is always nice and cozy inside. 😁

[@slowride55]

I use an old JD 140 garden tractor with a blower for snow removal and tire chains are a must since it’s 2wd. It does mark up the neighbors newer driveway that has a pretty smooth finish. Our driveway is older and has a more rough finish and there are no noticeable marks.

[@MLJenkins]

I hate chains. They also mark up my concrete. We bought a Can-Am Defender UTV a few years ago and I priced a plow for it versus chains and implements for my Kubota L6060HSTC. Economically it was less expensive to purchase the plow for the UTV. It was much less of an initial investment, no chains required, less chance of damaging the equipment if it slides on my hillside, less fuel costs, and so forth. My UTV has the front and back windshield but no cab like my tractor, but the tractor is simply just too expensive to clear snow with. I used to use the bucket years ago but it was so dangerous on the slightest incline without chains. Then you have the risk of the chains themselves, if they break or come off they can do a substantial amount of damage. If we got 2’ of snow in each storm like some areas then yes the tractor may make sense. But for us in the mid-Atlantic, the UTV was more economical for us. So my tractor investments are for when snow does not exist :)

[@luvbgrass]

Yes. that's why I don't pull my tractor in the garage after I put chains on it. I dont want my floor chewed up. Some on in the comments said use stall mats cut if you need to get inside. Sounds good to me. I have used boards to pull mine in if I absolutely have too.

[@kevingebert4316]

Steel chains will bite into concrete and blacktop. Yer best bet is get rubber chains. I put them on right away when I got my new home and sold off steel chains. The rubber ones work surprisingly well. Also a quick tip to installing any chain type is jack up rear end and put the hydro in free wheel. Then you can rotate the chains and get the perfect fit taking out any slack.

[@skipbickford3970]

I have a 4710 . The chains I purchased are heavy from Norway. They work great for me. We are in the mountains. Up to 19% grade on the driveway. I rigged up pulleys with an winch. I lower the chains down on to the tires. Really helps with the weight factor. The tires are set to the widest I can get them. So no problem with fenders in the way.

[@berthongo8531]

Hope you're getting a bunch of snow to compare these configurations. I do miss the lake effect snow from my childhood. All we get in Cheyenne is the wind after the mountains strip off all the moisture. Not helpful when I'm trying to persuade the wife that I need a snowblower for the 1025r when the old Sears Garden tractor can handle what we usually get. Merry Christmas.

[@1989Falkor]

Yup he has plenty. Its still snowing here.

[@frankponte4031]

I have a larger machine and the chains are heavy! 3/8" two-link style chains weigh probably ~75# each. I use a floor jack to lift the rear one wheel at a time. With the trans in neutral I drape the chain, in the correct orientation over the tire and roll it so the chains wrap around the top with the tails below on the floor. I then crawl underneath and attach the inner side link first. Then attach the outer side link after equalizing the crossbar spacing all around. Lastly I attached the spreaders and tie back the couple of loose outer side chain links. Quick and easy 10 minute job per side after about 45 years of experience.

[@berthongo8531]

"in the correct orientation" 😁 I know I've put them on incorrectly before and that's why I think it's so funny. I also lift lift my tractor and drape the chains over the tires. Even though it's just an old Sears Garden tractor, it makes it much easier.

[@ewaschuk802]

Your first install method is what I do 👍 best way to get the tight. They will balloon out when driving and hit everything in the wheel well if not tight. I use rubber stall mats in my garage just enough to get the tractor in the door.

[@chadz2143]

I thing i learned on model t snowmobile was to let air out to install tracks and reinflate . I do the same putting chains on ATV and 1920h Sunstar w/rimgard let some air out to install and reinflate. Nice and tight with little slack in cross chains

[@lonniechartrand]

At the 9:40 mark you are in the correct orientation with that rear blade. By running it "backwards" you eliminate gouging your gravel. It also helps if you hit a rock or small curb in that it might slide over instead of catching and breaking something. I have run my rear blades like this for over forty years. In fact, I tend to run my blades like this even in the summer, most of the time.

[@PJ-si2po]

If you can find 2 old snowmobile tracks that stretched on the concrete will protect fro the chains. Also old conveyers belts works as well it is east to get them from mines

[@carebearstyle]

I made same mistake 🤷🏽 I tried the rubber style chain this year. There not too bad quite a bit of traction. Not as much as the chains though. But at least they won't damage the asphalt.

[@melissasmess2773]

I found out quick that it was near impossible to steer my 4WD tractor on a slope because the front tires just slip on the snow even though large gravel underneath. I am trying the European style chains soon that you see on skidders, no tensioner needed. Hopefully don't need to buy suitcase weights for front bumper. The weight of the loader and bucket does not help as much as I had hoped. My rear R4's are weighted. Concrete is a rich person problem😂

[@davidwarden4350]

I bought a set of rubber strap chains for my zero turn with a plow I mounted on the front. I have used them for 3 winters now on my concrete driveway. Works great even with the steep section. No marks on concrete. Highly recommend.

[@BobsOutdoorActivities]

Good video. No thanks on the tire chains. Fought with them as a kid forever putting them on, keeping them straight. And of course the scaring of your garage floor. I jack the tire up, pull the chain over till the hooks are down over the rear of the tire. Hook up tight and straight. I zip lock the hooks. Now that I've moved off a lawn tractor, good riddance to chains. I am very curious about the atv front snow blower. As always, cool video shooting and editing!!!

[@LTVoyager]

I don’t use chains in my garages or on my asphalt for just that reason. Chains will make a mess of both concrete and asphalt over time, particularly the crossbar chains I use on my pickup when plowing ice. I take then off before I back the truck into the garage, but I have thought about trying the cattle mats. Not sure how long they would last but they should protect the floor for a while at least. I have also backed into the garage on lengthwise 2x8s a time or two when I really thought I would need the chains again the next day. The chains are tough on the boards, but preserves the concrete.

[@keadog1838]

I would use a pusher if you have somewhere to move the snow to. Snowblower can be very unpleasant with an open station machine but probably best if limited placement areas for larger amounts of snow. We lived in the Lake Erie snow belt for 25 years and I managed with a B7200 with FEL and a back blade but it wasn't easy or fun. Now I have a Ranger Northstar with a 6' hydraulic BOSS system and nothing beats plowing from inside a heated cab! Being able to tilt the blade L/R while staying warm is huge and saves a lot of time. Merry Christmas!

[@jamesvanderheide4122]

I just watched a review of the rammy snowblower right before I switched over to your channel. I think a self powered snowblower with a loader mount would be the cats pajamas. In my experience for snow removal when snow gets crazy deep the two tools that work best are blowers and bucket loaders.

[@Formulabruce]

Snowmobile cleats do gouges too... Epoxy can and does work well to repair, but its the nature of the beasts...

[@adeyacres8695]

We have a Farm King pull type blower up in Canada. The trick when you're blowing deep snow is to use the bucket up front as you're driving along. Hold the bucket about 12" off the ground to clear enough snow that you can drive through it. After the first pass (slow) just take partial passes with the bucket tipped forward to catch snow and let it fall infron of you. Hard to explain but it works!

[@lcee6592]

I use my FL and rear blade for snow and they work well for me. I’m trying something new with both FL and rear blade this year. I cut a slot lengthwise in 1.25” black pipe. Fitted it over the edges of the blades and fabricated mounts as needed to hold the pipe secure. Will see how/if this works on gravel drives. I have about 550’ of driveway to clear. Would love to have all those options for snow removal though! 😊

[@melissasmess2773]

Are you using plastic or steel, I am going to try this with plastic because it's easy and free, after I install my block heater... I have heard others doing this and it works to prevent digging up gravel, I don't have rich people problems with concrete or asphalt 😂

[@lcee6592]

@@melissasmess2773 I’m using schedule 40 black pipe. I thought about using plastic but was afraid of cracking it and or wearing right through it from the friction of the gravel. It was easier for me to fabricate mounts and weld them to the pipes for both FL and rear blade. However, plastic would be kinder to asphalt/concrete drives. Maybe drill holes at the ends of the pipe and use bungee cords to hold it up in place. This would be providing you slot the pipe to fit over the cutting edge of your blade. I’m going to run the rear blade facing forward so it will be more efficient at dumping snow off the end. I also shortened the top link to stand the bottom of the blade edge, up. This should make a less aggressive angle to the driveway.

[@andrewmonette9347]

I had issues for the longest time trying to chain my tractor. I ended up buying a good jack and installed the chains while the tire was off the ground. I would also remove some air from the tire while installing the chains.

[@mattmiller675]

I use the front snow plow on mine works great. I do have rear tire weights , tires filled with beet juice and tire chains. I don’t have a front loader for mine. Have you ever tried the front snow plow??

[@johngaudreau7506]

I have used chains on my 1025r for years since I have a 15% grade up my asphalt driveway. I usually wait to use them until the ground is frozen since my shed is in a field, unless a big storm comes. I have not detected gouging in the driveway. I also get a seal coat every few years too which may cover if damaged by chains. I would be concerned if I had concrete and consider rubber chains instead.

[@paulgoplen5929]

When I add chains to my GX345 2WD I use a hydraulic jack to lift the rear tires off the ground then you can spin the tire to put the chains on. 10 minutes or so. They do leave rust stains on the concrete after the winter, but that beats getting stuck.

[@jerrywilliams4945]

Let the air out of the tires. When you pump them back up, the chains will be tighter

[@fyrman9092]

That can be a challenge with fluid in the tires

[@agprostephen]

Thank you for being willing to show us your mistakes! Makes me feel better 🤣 Merry Christmas to you and your family!

[@MrVinor44]

I have about 700 ft of gravel driveway, plus around my pole barn. I plow with a blade on my atv. This year I mounted a 2 inch steel pipe on the bottom. This is working great. It doesn't dig in or push gravel over to the side. It doesn't leave a film of snow like when you use skidders either. There's a very ingenious guy on KZbin that mounted a pipe on his truck plow. He made it so he can remove it with 1 pin and store it on top of his plow when plowing paved driveways. Check him out.

[@joelstanhope7231]

Standard tire chains ( mud chains ) dont normally damage concrete . But ice chains definitely will . A rubber truck bed mat or plywood layed on the floor cures that .

[@kipcudd7253]

I just watched Mike Morgan with his new Kubota LX with the R14 tires with the Bio fill in his tires, not rim guard, 11.7 lbs per gal and he was going up his steep driveway using an angle blade,6', no slippage with ice under the blowing snow. No chains. I've never used chains on my tractor moving snow, course we don't get to many heavy snows here in Oklahoma. This was before r14 tires, just Ag and r4 tires.

[@earlyriser8998]

quite the arsenal. Winter doesn't have a chance!

[@jimhaugh6851]

When I first learned to put chains on it was a fire truck the chains were designed for that specific size you made them tight no stretchers needed and they were tight, now days stretchers are a must

[@franklackie2469]

Yes you do need your chains as tight as possible to prevent damage to your fenders

[@roadwarriorflhx]

Similar to turning the blade backwards, I used the box blade on my 1025r tilted back to help remove heavy slush off my gravel driveway. Front mounted snow blower removed the pile dumped at the end of the run. Looking forward to the results of your test - enjoying your insight. Merry Christmas 🎄

[@ballenvanscoy9679]

If you jack the wheel of the ground and let the air out and put them back on as tight as possible then air them back up. Put your tightness in it will save a lot of wear on the chains and should never come loose.

[@simpleman4196]

I just put a piece of UHMW on my rear blade took off the steel cutting edge. Excited to use it but we did get but a dusting from the snow storm..... Some storm 😒

[@randalmiddleton8068]

Let the fun begin before next weekends spring melt down...

[@georgewelker853]

Chains will tear up the surface of your concrete but it doesn’t take much to protect it. The carpet under your truck is plenty to do what needs done

[@richardbrowne1679]

Chains will definitely wear on concrete and blacktop. Chains are one of those things that you have to ask yourself- Do I really need them? Or would it be unsafe to use the tractor without them? For me- I can maintain my relatively flat driveway and winter road without chains.

[@rodbagley1686]

I have chains on my tractor for years and my driveway has marks all over it. Just the way it is. Don't like using salt. That realy trashes concrete. My next-door neighbor got a brand new driveway last summer. She wants it cleaned this winter. I hate to mark it up but no chains on plow!Merry Christmas to you and all the Good Works tractor folks.

[@slowride55]

Maybe give those rubber chains a try?

[@kevinstewart4806]

Courtney take a like a 2 ft piece of belt line and lay down on the floor and drive your tire chains on them don't drive right on the concrete I got pieces of beltline I laid down on the floor and drive on them thank you

[@jamesyates5191]

I’ve had good luck with the rear blade backwards if you only have one one storm to deal with.

[@geoffstrebel2808]

@6:25 Really you should spend $10,000 on a backhoe so you can just lift the rear end up with the outriggers. ;) Merry Christmas tractor nuts!

[@BG-vq9fd]

I won't use chains on my concrete or black top. Before I had tractors my neighbor would occasionally spin chains on my black top(2x4). I'm interested to see what the rake does.

[@kylerayk]

Fun video! Lots of good information and things that some folks may not know. Have a Merry Christmas Courtney and Chris!

[@offroadexplorer6541]

I see you like to push your equipment to see how much it can handle(saw this with a mower you had used). How big of a snow pusher can you put on this? 8'? Years ago i had a 70's massy 12hp, MF12, had 42" plow, I put V wings on pushing a path almost 60" wide. No add weight but the tractor was around 800 pounds, and had tire chains. I've upgraded sense then, sorts of miss that old tractor.

[@michiganhay7844]

I did a video a couple years ago tractor chains installed easy I do it the same no matter what size equipment. I also do it on my truck tires the same way.

[@SemiReTired]

I love the idea of spinning that short blade around. I look forward to see how that works for you. I never needed chains while blowing snow. Even on ice covered snow with 24" drifts. My JD2320 was phenomenal. I also have JD turf tires. I would put that set up against any other. What i could use at some point is a snow pusher. I have a blade for the front for wet snow but it marks drive ways when I angle it. I cant use it unless i keep it straight. The pusher with plastic feet would do me some good

[@larryandrews4328]

Hey Courtney love your videos and I noticed on this video that u have extra lighting on inside of roll bar on the 2038r facing rearward. Can u do a video on them?? I have a 2038r and need them on my tractor.. thx for ALL your informative videos!! I enjoy watching them!! My name is Larry from Sparta North Carolina!!

[@dave.lawrence.3894]

Time to have fun and learn which one is right for you.... time will tell all..... be safe this holiday season!!!! 🙂🙏🤞✌👍

[@ghostinthebox]

... when was this filmed? Winter started at end of hunting season... September 20th. First snow was on the ground by October 1...

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Why does that matter?

[@ghostinthebox]

Fair point- it doesn't really matter. I was just confused as to why a winter set up vid would be in the middle of winter, instead of the start of winter- thats all.

[@rcguy18]

I used a landscape rake last year with a pvc tube on the tines. Worked very well tell the pvc tube wore out. This year I have homemade snowplow on the front of my Deere 855

[@OrangeismyNewGreen]

You are definitely all set for snow 🎅🏻🎄🙋🏼‍♂️🙂👍🏻

[@redclover51]

Can't wait to see the landscape rake in action as we have limited snowfall and could make a dual purpose implement.

[@Ziptietechnician]

We use our landscape rake in the snow. We have a big piece of thick rubber we bolt to the tines. It works great.

[@redclover51]

@@Ziptietechnician Appreciate the info

[@LTVoyager]

With gravel, you might want to try a roller on the first snowfall of 3-6”. That will help pack down a layer that will encapsulate the stones so that later use of blower or plow is less likely to pick up the loose stones.

[@josephmandarino2199]

I agree. Early in the season I pick up a lot of gravel, later on when the stones are frozen into the ground it is less of a problem.

[@ronmorell657]

Why do you leave your quick hitch locks open when hooking up? I haven't yet with no issues.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

If I’ve unhooked from an attachment, then I do out of habit. No big deal. Sometimes I don’t.

[@TAT2D-SQRL]

That is one of the very reasons that I have not installed the chains on my tires. My chains also have a barb on the rungs which is a bit more aggressive grip that just the chains themselves. Looking forward to the other videos showing the equipment in action

[@MrStonymo]

Good Video, on the 1025 there is a grab handle connected to the left side ROP. do you find this accessory useful and where can I purchase?

[@geoffstrebel2808]

I haven't had to use it yet but I'm still a big fan of tire siping...

[@davidmorley523]

Now it’s right That sharp edge will damage the tire. And yes, chains do damage concrete. It’s metal rubbing on concrete

[@duanebolen543]

That is a different Concrete in your shed because you got that sealed and sealed concrete is not good with tire chains but if you're out on the road that is a different because you don't seal your road or your driveway

[@Morgan2XL]

Owner agent supervising a 29 unit condo the asphalt starts out smooth but after 5 years with a skid steer loader it is uniformly pebbled texture, moving a 3ft deep compacted base snow load which could translate as 10 ft of accumulated snow fall. Just have to dial in re paving every 10 years or so. Dont spin those chains.

[@brandonmunson5747]

I put mine on in the fall with the aid of my backhoe stabilizers.

[@skipbickford3970]

Do you have an answer for wet snow and snow blowers

[@guystuff7942]

Nice setups! Do you know if those hitch hangers will fit on a Harbor Freight quick hitch?

[@stuartrinker]

Those are small enough to drape them over the top.

[@Morgan2XL]

Those are light chains you should be able to drape up to r 26 R 4 diamond H tractor chains with one person. Those ladder bar chains are pretty light looking. Here Most commercial ops use diamond H pattern with pegs or V bars and if they want light chains go to titanium . Just dont spin them on a finished surface. Some logging ops here 2" put angle iron cross bars into the mix welded across the diamond H pattern.

[@karvtek]

My tire chains are studded. I roll out some heavy conveyor belt material on my concrete floor to protect it.

[@tfunkhou88]

I tried the rear blade turned around…it just rode up over the snow without weight on it so I ended up turning it back around

[@melissasmess2773]

Thanks, that what I thought would happen too and I also thought the snow wouldn't slide down an angled blade but heap over the top.

[@tfunkhou88]

@@melissasmess2773 oh, the snow definitely slides off to the side of the angled blade. Works really well facing its intended direction 👍

[@justanotherviewer52]

Some interesting options. Looking forward to the testing process.

[@matthewkirichkow5279]

You're gonna want to relocate the air filter too. The bracket that supports it has a tendency to break and metal gets into the engine if the valve cover breaks.

[@byronmitchell13]

Couple horse mats from tractor supply will keep the concrete good.

[@kenthomas5683]

Merry Christmas

[@rcclassiccrawlers4368]

I’m still trying to figure out how you don’t have hardly any snow yet. We’ve been (ln Minnesota) getting snow almost all week.

[@tonyburkhart888]

Do you offer 4-in-1 buckets for the JD 1025r?

[@A48L16S091366]

You are the last guy I’d have expected to see running the engine mounted old style 1025R air filter.

[@qcan8468]

The cattle mats are ok. I prefer an old pickup bed mat or mud flaps from a semi.

[@StevenMac556]

Looking forward to seeing the results.

[@rundeks]

Really excited to see how this goes!

[@ramonacrawford2768]

Cortney, We really enjoy your channel! Noticed that you were concerned about the "chipping" your tire chains were doing to the concrete floor in your shop. My husband has a suggestion. What we've done is get some empty, flattened "gaylords" from a local plastic injection molding plant (gaylords are basically ultra-heavy duty cardboard boxes that plastics raw material is shipped in--roughly 1" + thick). We're not sure how things are there in Michigan, but here in North Idaho, if the company doesn't use the gaylords to ship oversized products in, they are generally discarded, and, locally at least, they charge to get rid of them. We are fortunate, in that my husband works for a local plastics manufacturer. We have used a set of six of them for the last two winters on the concrete floor under our tractor, a Kioti DK4510SE with a cab and backhoe, and Rim-Guard weighted rear tires, along with box chain tire chains in the winter. The gaylords work flawlessly in preventing damage. If this is something you may be interested in trying, you might want to check some of your local (more or less) plastic injection manufacturers. My husband did a quick Google search and came up with three (there may be others). Harloff Manufacturing, on I-94 West of Mattawan, (269)-655-1097; Western Diversified Plastics, Mattawan, (269)-668-3393; and W-L Molding of Michigan, Portage, (269)-327-3075. If they're like the local plants, they'd be more than happy to fix you up for no cost, other than what it costs you to go get them.

[@mark-ew8hk]

Jack one side at a time to put chain on makes it easy er

[@MH-py1ou]

Chains damaged my driveway. Bought a plow for my truck and never looked back

[@BackyardEngineer334]

I’m in West Central Alabama & both my outdoor spigots are froze solid as a brick, can’t even turn the knob.

[@philm9750]

If you have water spigots that go through a basement wall as we do here Michigan you may want to replace them with the freeze proof type with built in anti suction feature to help eliminate freeze up. The spigot end needs to face down and the whole faucet should be slightly sloped downward. Don’t keep a hose attached to them since they are long and shut off inside the basement and the water in the outside portion of the spigot drains out so it isn’t there to freeze.

[@philm9750]

If you don’t have a basement you can install freeze proof faucets through your house wall into a kitchen sink cupboard or into a bathroom under toilet tank so the portion of the valve that shuts off is in the warm house.

[@thegreatnorthwoodswithbb2863]

Four-wheel drive tractor I don't bother with tire chains no need for them.... Boy I hate the John Deere plastic hoods and fenders... Especially for what they charge for that green paint

[@robertlarrabee9115]

Chains! Definitely not for concrete or paved driveways! Over time the damage will be very noticeable. The heavier the tractor, the greater the damage. Always put planking down if you want to protect your floor.

[@steveaguinaga3821]

@6:00 😆

[@albertkikstra]

Can you ship to Japan? Would be awesome if you could!

[@stihldavebergen3469]

I run a blade behind my massey in reverse, works just fine.

[@franklackie2469]

At least your a c. Is working well. !!!

[@paulthompson1216]

I have a UTI but i can’t push snow with it.

[@GoodWorksTractors]

Sounds painful!

[@jeremygibbs8659]

They definitely cause damage. Especially to pavement and especially if you spin at all.

[@robertmoulton2656]

You sir are lovely ,however your surgically clean shop is not intended for compact tractors . Is more suited to classic Ferrari storage. 🤦🏼. I consider myself fussy clean but dude you take it to another level . Let's focus on the traction aspect ok

[@adamm2716]

i recommend not living where it snows

[@fyrman9092]

Not living where it snows can be subjective depending on one's location because every US state has received snow. For those of us that have to deal with snow on a regular basis, we become resourceful.

[@hdbikerdave5835]

Chains aren’t meant for concrete nor blacktop driveways. I tried chains and quickly put chains away for reasons of how much damage they do. Dirt and gravel roadways they work fine but otherwise I do not recommend.

[@melissasmess2773]

I think the V bar style will work but they would really chew pavement up with the sharp ends.

[@Skynet-1]

Never understand why everyone showing equipment uses hand tools instead of a cordless impact like we do at home for mounting equipment. So painful to watch the struggle...

[@melissasmess2773]

They are heavier which fatigues me and I am not getting flat rate, charge by the hour😂

[@berthongo8531]

He needs two complete sets of tooling. One for the house and one for the job. Yeah, that's it. That's the ticket. He needs to buy more tools!!!