I Make a 3 in 1Carbide Tipped Lathe Tool

[@Steviegtr52]

Nice one. I knew there was something I had to do. Now I remember. I got a stack of cutting bits given from a defunked Engineering shop & none of my holders take them. I like the idea of a bouble ended one . Thanks for showing. Steve.

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Your welcome 👍

[@robertpearson8798]

Added to my to-do list. Nothing more satisfying than making your own tools.

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

I hope your to-do list is not as long as mine 😂

[@robertpearson8798]

@@EnglishHobbyMachinist I keep nibbling away at it but it still seems to grow.

[@ronmurphy9819]

A couple of days ago I did almost the exact same thing. It sure is satisfying when what you’ve made works really good! Thanks for sharing.

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Your welcome 👍

[@zoltannagy1813]

Good work. Would look even better if you blackened it also.

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

I was going to cold blue it but decided to keep it natural 👍

[@Lesfac]

Enjoyable video. Good useful tool to make. It would have been good to hear what the carbide tips are and where to get them. Also I noticed you had the proper hold down screws. A source for these would be good. I have made single ended tools and I fudged a cap head Allen screw for the hold down.

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Hi, the codes are DCMT11T304-HM CCMT09t304 A google search for “carbide insert screws” will bring up a few results, the ones I used came as spares with a carbide tool I bought. Hope that helps 👍

[@TheRecreationalMachinist]

Nice 👍 🇬🇧

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Thank You

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Nice work. Interesting project

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Thank You

[@camillosteuss]

Nice work, but i would absolutely recommend taking a second pass over the insert pockets, this time with a 2mm cutter, and at an angle of the taper of the sid-walls of the carbide inserts... The oem holders always come with slanted sides, as the inserts are slanted on the sides... It offers more surface for the insert to positively fit against when compared to a vertical side-wall, but the issue here is that your vertical sides on the pocket are meant to hold not a vertical sided insert, but slant sided inserts, which exerts pressure against the very top of the insert, often right above the chip-breaker, at the weakest point of the insert regarding side-loads, so you are both more likely to chip the unused edges with this as you are to have issues with rigidity... Not saying that it won`t work... But it`s quite sub-optimal... You can make a custom D cutter like robin renzetti has shown on one of his videos, or you can use a small endmill and tilt the head or use a tilting vise to achieve the required angle for the insert... You can undercut with the endmill into the bottom of the pocket a bit, it will not do any harm and will allow you to ensure no interference as the insert gets slid against the walls... Best regards! Steuss

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it’s something I hadn’t considered as a hobbyist 👍

[@camillosteuss]

@@EnglishHobbyMachinist Anytime! Keep in mind that we are not in different category... I`m just a zealous fanatic who has spent last 15 years in a maniacal dedication to learning all that i can about machines and machining, quite likely as a compensation for the unrequited love for machines that i thought would remain such forever... My knowledge of theory was always my best weapon... Application thereof on the other hand, well, that is going along gently, almost childishly timid when compared to my spitting of theory... I would strongly recommend you to check Robin Renzetti out... You will find the video that has this same thing shown in practice, but if you have not yet seen his stuff, you will likely be like a kid discovering their new favorite movie... Going back and rewatching it for dozens of times... At least that is what i did when i first saw his channel, and i still sometimes return and rewatch his videos, just as a reminder of excellence and performance... All the best and kindest regards! Steuss

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

@@camillosteuss thank you for recommending Robin Renzetti I will definitely check him out 👍

[@joell439]

Well done 👍

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Thank you 😊

[@paulbuckberry7683]

Nice little project. Was the steel any particular grade?

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Thank you, from memory it was EN1A mild steel, it doesn’t need to be tool steel 👍🙂

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Nice idea Dude! TFS, GB :)

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Thank you

[@simpleman283]

Subscribed 3/19/2024

[@honeycuttracing]

As others have said, definitely needs to be blued (blacken) it, will rust quickly on you if you don't, nice work on that tool, is there something wrong with your lathe, sounded like a bearing or something getting ready to leave the chat!

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Nothing wrong, it has just had a complete refurb, it’s an old belt driven myford, I agree it is noisy, it’s 60 years old but it does the job 😂 I might cold blue it if it starts rust but I use it most days and it gets plenty of oil on it 👍

[@honeycuttracing]

@EnglishHobbyEngineer oh ok, makes sense on your lathe, body make sounds sorta like that from time and only 40 something hahaha hahaha 😆 😂, we have to treat everything bare metal in shop, lots of humidity in there, would like a concrete floor but that's just not feasible

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

@@honeycuttracing it cuts accurately and has loads of torque at low speed and it’s part of the family, I solve the noise by turning the music up when I’m not filming 😂😂😂

[@jasonpitcher2256]

What inserts did you use?

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

Hi, the codes are DCMT11T304-HM CCMT09t304

[@ryebis]

It's worth making one with SCMT insert to get 45 degree chamfers.

[@EnglishHobbyMachinist]

👍