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*this video has made about $200 in KZbin ad revenue since uploading it, which is why I say this in the title.
PLANS AVAILABLE!
Get the plans here: www.etsy.com/l...
A marking gauge is more than a replacement for measuring--it's a huge time saver that allows you to make extremely consistent measurements, which increases accuracy. Rather than measuring 1" in various locations on a board, and then connecting the dots to make a line, set your gauge to 1", and scribe!
This marking gauge is a very common style that is simple to make.
HOW TO:
1. Start by milling up two pieces of 3/4" x 3/4" stock (It should be a harder wood, which is why I have walnut). One of the pieces will be 8" long, and the other will be 11" long.
2. Take the 11" piece, and cut it like this: 2 that are 3" long each, one piece that's 2" long, and two that are 1 1/8" long. You might have some leftover, because this only totals 10 1/4" inches. So, that should leave enough for the saw kerf when cutting.
3. Now, stack those pieces as seen in the video: a 3-inch piece on the bottom, the two 1 1/8" pieces in the middle of the "sandwich", and another 3-inch piece on top. You should have something like a square. This square surface will be the face of the marking gauge.
3.a. You now have the 8" long piece and a 2" long piece left. Put the 2-inch piece off to the side for later.
4. Now, choose on of the 3" pieces of the face, and drill a 1/8" hole in the very middle length- and width-wise. Be sure to make it as straight and vertical of a hole as possible.
4.a. Using a slightly larger bit, bore out that same hole. Do this one more time with another slightly larger bit.
4.b. Now, using a 1/4" drill bit, bore out the same hole, all the way through. Take it nice and slow so as not to blow out the wood.
4.c. Ok, here's where it gets tricky: take a 3/8" bit, and bore out about 2/3 of the way--NOT THE WHOLE WAY!
4.d. Take a threaded insert (I used a brass one, for a 1/4 x 20 thread per inch machine screw), and seat it in the 3/8" hole. Replace the piece you were just working on--put the side with the threaded insert toward the middle of the face of the square. It will be on the inside, not the outside, of the piece.
5. Going back , separate the two middle pieces by placing the other, uncut 8-inch piece of stock between them as shown. It will run perpendicular to the square we are making. Your square will have a 3/4" x 3/4" hole in it now. In the center of that hole, on one side, will be the threaded insert for a set screw to hole the rod of the marking gauge.
6. Glue up all the small pieces of the face of the marking gauge. Keep the 8" rod piece in the middle, but DO NOT GLUE the 8"!!! It is there to make sure the hole in the face of the gauge is a tight fit. Once a few minutes pass and the glue is starting to get more tacky, you can take the 8" piece out: just don't alter the size of the hole in the middle of the face.
7. While that's drying, drill a small, 1/16" hole in one end of the 8" rod piece. Center it on the width of the piece, and set it in about 1/4-3/8" from one end. Drill most of the way through--not all the way.
7.a. Take a small nail and cut the end off of it. Make its total length about 7/8-1". I popped it in the drill and sanded it, going through the grits, to make it look nicer and to establish a sharper point.
8. When everything has dried, you can put the 8" rod back through the hold in the gauge face, and your marking gauge is ready--even if it looks a little plane.
9. From here on out, everything we do it cosmetic and not really functional. I squared up all the sides on the marking gauge face, and I glued the 2" piece on the bottom of the gauge: the bottom is the side that is opposite the side with the set screw.
10. Then I used various tools to carve and shape the face of the gauge to a design I liked.
10.a. I do recommend adding the 2" piece on the bottom and finding a way to make it blend in (like rounding it somewhat) because that extends the height of the fence that registers against the piece you're working on. Since the nail that scratches a mark will sit out about 1/4" of an inch, it's nice to have that ability to register the gauge more comfortably and stably with more real estate on the gauge's face.
I hope you've enjoyed this video and that it's been helpful to you!
See you next time!
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I made this marking gauge to give away through Wood by Wright's Hand Tool Build Off, 2017, and it was given away to the winner!
Wood by Wright's Channel:
/ @woodbywright
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