I massively improved a terrible 3D Printer - Tronxy D01 Phoenix Edition ft. E3D Hemera

[@fatesendGames]

OH MY GOSH!!!! #makersmuse THANK YOU for featuring my Mayan Temple in your video today!!!!!

[@Axodus]

Eyyyy it's a nice model, I don't blame them for using it, good job!

[@ChayComas]

Nice!

[@geologist_luna]

Absolutely beautiful model! You did a fantastic job! Can't wait to see what else you do.

[@terrellmajor8205]

You probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any help you can give me!

[@terrellmajor8205]

@Ralph Ahmed Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@lonsdale16op]

Little known fact, the heat sync is actually modeled after Sanjay's hair. directing the air away from the print was just a happy accident.

[@MakersMuse]

haha it's uncanny!

[@SonicKiwi123]

Having a little bit of engineering experience, I can confirm that every once in a while ideas do start out as an obvious joke that actually ends up giving promising results

[@mysteriouspikachuman]

RIP Sanjay, you were an amazing guy.

[@williamjf77]

I use a soldering iron to hot tighten nozzles on the bench, just need a tip that fits the heater hole pretty well , set temp and tighten.

[@MakersMuse]

Huh, pretty handy tip! Safer too.

[@williamjf77]

Yeah, It’s actually pretty dangerous to tighten the nozzle with heat and power applied to the hotend. I found out I had exposed wires from the heater cartridge by my wrench holding the heater block sparking on the wires that pulled back from the insulation. So now with V6 style I heat it with the soldering iron.

[@michaeldevlin5101]

Smart

[@crenn6977]

Thanks for sharing that tip!

[@JSunBurns]

Now that is an idea. Create a workstation that heats a cartridge for assembling heater blocks/nozzles on the bench.

[@barnesbuilt1250]

When drilling larger holes, try using a step drill bit. They leave a clean hole and nice chamfer after ☺️🤙🏼

[@LT72884]

Woot, you featured my friends dice towers! I have been a huge fan of your show for a couple of years. Thanks

[@mechaflowmaniac]

Well done for holding your ground of fundamental safety protections like thermal runaway. So many unaware buying these budget printers!

[@TheTechAdmin]

7:34 Yeah, they teach this in the first week of highschool freshman Drafting class. Probably my favorite class. Learned so much in that class, I was able to skip college and become a blue spring reader for Local 4 Brick Layers and Allied Craft Workers.

[@coltonames7535]

wow wait! There was a cool tip on measuring distance between holes that you just blasted right through. I love how concise you are with these videos, but coming from someone who does a lot a design for functional parts these are the little gems that got me watching all your videos.

[@longinus665]

Definitely! I measure distances between holes all the time, and didn't know about this trick!

[@BRUXXUS]

Holy smokes! That hole center to center caliper trick is going to be such a time saver for me! Thanks!

[@Mr87corey]

It's easier to just measure from the inner most side of one hole, to the outer most side of the other hole

[@JoergGebhard]

i am really happy to see one of these "upgrading a cheap" printer videos from you. And i share they the love-hate relationship to tronxy with you ;)

[@tdrumm3d]

Hey Angus! Big fan here :) Your videos are always awesome. I appreciate the shoutout for Kim's Kickstarter!~ I'm one of the merchants for campaign 1 and 2. Cheers!

[@raghavgarg6909]

Not anything related to the video, but I just wanna say I love your channel. Been watching it since I got interested in 3D Printing about 3 years ago

[@MakersMuse]

Thanks! 3yrs feels like eons ago.

[@JaaaaaaaC]

I happened to be able to snag a hemera when they were scarce and I been using it for like 6 months and it works like a champ.

[@TheJacklwilliams]

I do believe the E3D Hemera will be my first upgrade to my Anet A8Plus! Great review, THANKS!

[@JessWLStuart]

You are obviously passionate about 3D printing! Excellent presentation!

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

Yet another great review Angus. Always fun and informative watching your videos. Keep up the great work!

[@fliptop62deceived95]

Always a good show. Thanks Angus and I also watch 3D Printing Nerd. Still on a learning curve with Nylon fails and my X1 Sidewinder. Cheers from Perth.

[@brianpercival1829]

Welcome to the club. My TRONXY 500x500x600 came with wrong cables, missing parts that I had to order to get correct parts before I could even start a print. Dual extruder cable was way too short for second extruder. When I got the longer cable it did not work until I copued the wiring colours from one to the other and swapping pin locations. Angry with TRONXY Quality Control but once I ironed out the bugs, make great PLA prints on glass bed. I had to switch to glass as the hot end burned a hole in the buildtech sheet. Trying to get setting right for PETG is another trial and error stringy mix. I see that every delivered 3D Printer is a starting point and each owner upgrades it as needed to get the best printer possible.

[@ahmadilyas5736]

I have a wild suggestion , but try building a Voron as a long term project for channel . It would fun for you too.

[@MakersMuse]

I really want to, but it's a huge time investment that I don't have currently. Maybe in future...

[@BryanMcKibbin]

Love this type of video. I have several 3d printers now and to be honest I get more fun out of modifying them than actually running them. So far I haven't tried either the Hemera or the BIQU version but have done several mods to convert to DD.

[@The_Mimewar]

$100, with a good extruded, a motor AND hot end? Heading to Amazon now

[@bernielomax4859]

Super glad to hear cutting down a bit on the sauce. That shit can really change you and carry away with things. Take care homie

[@WindCatcherRC]

I had a serious problem with E3D Volcano hardened nozzle, heat break, and the aluminum heat block. The issue is that all three part are different metals that expand and contract at different rates. It would cause leaks at the top of the heat block after a few print jobs. I chased this issue replacing all the parts multiple times until E3D suggested I switch to the copper block. It's a miracle, no leaks and no jams for two years now. If you have issues with heat creep, jams, or leaks, switch out the heat block to copper.

[@esqueue]

I took this idea from you and did this upgrade last year. Used the SKR 1.3 board and display. Used two HP 1200w power supplies in series and a 5v power to make an awesome printer.

[@MakersMuse]

nice!

[@BLBlackDragon]

Love the new bits for the music rig. Would love to see a video on your whole setup (equip, and what software you're using). Absolutely loved the piece you did for Joel.

[@buildersmark]

That dice tower is ridiculous detail! Great video

[@legendaryleo7]

Can you review a Voron? Curious to see how they stack up against commercially available printers

[@michaelwuchitech7598]

I let Kim at Fates End know you used her Mayan dice tower and she was very pleased

[@MakersMuse]

Awesome, I just backed the campaign because the others look incredible too.

[@macswanton9622]

Great job from a guy who really knows the ropes. Cheers!

[@TaitGuy]

Thanks for your hardwork, and your sponsors! Good information!

[@TheDanny]

Fates end dice tower!! Absolutely amazing towers.

[@Allazander]

As Barnes Built said, using a step bit is great. If you don't have one, don't use "progressively larger" bits, you'll just damage the bits, chipping and dulling them. Use a 1/8" (3mm?) for the pilot hole then go straight to the bit for the final size of the hole. Anything else and you wind up with bits trying to cut sharp edged metal starting from the middle of their cutting edge and you'll chip them there and quite possibly at their outer edges as well. Just a tip from a fabricator, take it or toss it.

[@byte2600]

I am new to the channel and 3D printing. I found your channel as I saw your qidi x-plus review and bought one. I am having trouble with the high temp extruder but they are sending me another one. Love the channel.

[@tronskifpv]

very nice account of fixing a printers issues. I hope this trends for you and it leads to enclosed printer modifications and high end filaments.

[@ethanmiddleton]

only 20 seconds in and very excited. I purchased a D01 and it makes great prints for the most part but definitely has room to improve.

[@stipuledfatcat]

I got one for my Ender3 a little over a year ago and apart from over tightening one of the screws on the stepper motor that mounts the print cooling fan and breaking the thin bit of metal it has been a great improvement over the stock hot end. I have not tried any nylons or super flexible filaments yet, which was partly why I decided to buy one, but for PLA it has been working great.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

You nailed a few good points about the Hemera....the lack of part cooling solutions / BL Touch mounts have prevented me from upgrading more machines to it. The mounts I have seem for the CR-10S, for example, seemed really wiggly and lacking.

[@mokacrea8061]

Thanks a lot for your advice i love all of your upgrade I’m gonna use them for my personal KZbin channel Thanks 👌🏻

[@SplicesAndCelluloid]

My only issue with this is the huge increase in moving mass. What speeds/acceleration/jerk are you running?

[@lennynnnnnn]

Are you actually able to change the acceleration on the D01? I found that any of the typical gcode commands dont take with the stock FW...

[@bigfilsing]

@@lennynnnnnn you can if you flash Marlin to it

[@halftimenerd1488]

I'm currently trying to upgrade my V6 hotend to the hemera, but the thing is at customs since three weeks now :( Brexit's working out fine for me

[@Ruckusmatter]

ohhhhh snap, thats were all my shipments went, i get notifications telling me theyre in the country then they dont show up til months later than the estimated delivery date

[@andrewmartin6420]

I put a Hemera on my Formbot Raptor2. This thing is SOLID. keep in mind to keep your retractions to 1mm or less to prevent jams

[@AmusementLabs]

I think you should say "I do not like the printer, I like the modifications * I * made to it of which TronXY had nothing to do with."

[@MakersMuse]

heh yep, pretty much.

[@a_student0]

Thanks again for the high quality content. 💚

[@sillydilly2725]

Yo, that caliper trick is amazing. Thank you

[@TheShorterboy]

I have the same "glass lattice" thing from tronxy and nothing would stick until I roughed up the surface, it now prints PLA with a 50deg bed though YMMV so try lightly sanding with P60 sandpaper on the bed don't go too hard just make sure there are lines, 240 didn't seem to work

[@bpkop1387]

I added a hemera to my sapphire pro (looks very similar to this tronxy) and it has been AMAZING.

[@wc6157]

I know this video was a while ago - but I just had an experience that may explain your headless cats. Printing the cat with a silk type pla. I was using a JAXA heat box as the filament holder - I'd been printing some wood filled filament that I kept dry at 50C and just added the silk rather than switch holders. Every now and then the filament roll would jump - waking me up from my chair where I was watching with my eyes closed. Careful watching found that the roll would creep UP the forward roller which means the filament was unable to release from the spool. Only issue I could see is that one winding of the filament was against the adjacent filament for about an inch and then separated slightly - until the filament would release from the adjacent filament and the roll would slam back into position and unroll about half a winding before it stopped. I suspect the manufacturer wound the roll at temperature and the filament windings would occasionally stick together. Complaints about filament tangling is probably this problem - not tangling but sticking together. When I have the inclination I think I'll transfer the remaining filament from this roll to another roll and see if there are any hang-ups. But I thought you might want to know - a reason why one filament creates headless cats and another doesn't - basically the manufacturer lost control of the temperature during winding and it occasionally got too high. If it's during winding I'm willing to bet is kind'a periodical - explaining why the printing stopped at close to the same place.

[@grolemm7101]

Can you do a video about the Anycubic Mega Zero, i recently bougt one and like to hear your view/ comments on it.... maybe even tips on how to get it in to top shape?

[@Shwalamazula]

I love Kim's dice towers. Great print.

[@azyfloof]

Oh man, I remember that Tronxy! I was appalled the first time I heard of the thermal runaway issue

[@MatkoBA]

Thanks for this episode. I am currently upgrading my Anet A8 to print with 0.2mm nozzle and concidered himera as an option. In the end, I went with a clone of Titan Aero geared direct drive which was a much cheaper option (about 18€ extruder + heatsink). I yet have to finish the build..

[@TheRCvie]

Great work resurrecting that pile into something usable.

[@Enter-the-Meta]

Hi Angus, I know it’s a little late but have you released your revised tolerance test? I’m really looking forward to trying it!

[@Bajicoy]

Looking forward to more of your 3D printing videos, great mods! (Maybe to help with cooling you need more cooling fans? As for the mysterious filament jamming it could be the hemera's early production errors losing torque. Otherwise, a temperature and humidity soaked problem where the filament needs to be baked and printed at above normal pla temps. Additionally, perhaps a filament spool holder/feeding at that height bends the oversized bowden tube that it cannot feed smoothly anymore.idk hope these well intentioned guesses help.)

[@theheadone]

I had a hell of a time getting their extruder to properly grip the filament. After a month of tweeking with it trying to get it to work, I decided the tensioner was way too finicky for me and promptly went back to my bondtech extruder on my main printer and haven't looked back. Edit: wow, that frame is super flimsy. It badly needs some bracing, you can see the whole frame moving back and forth while you're printing. Also, I put the DDX on my nephew's ender 3 and it's awesome.

[@MakersMuse]

It's the folding table its on sadly, the frame is super rigid surprisingly. I need less flimsy tables that also can be stored away!

[@lordelliott42]

@@MakersMuse Maybe you can print some snap-on braces that would tension the legs against the table top. If the legs are stiff, it won't wobble. Or just replace the folding joints with some better joint that probably already exists.

[@57r4n63r]

LTT shirt! nice

[@antronk]

I’d love to see Angus try a custom DIY printer build the likes of VzBot, Voron or RatRig. I’d always thought I knew what his answer would be, as he normally focuses in the end-user’s perspective of a product and that, as an industrial designer, he sees 3D printers as tools to “empower creativity through technology” rather than the meta hobby. But the sometimes videos like this or his 3D printer inside a prop scratch build pop up, which are more in line with the DIY meta community. Anyway, I’d just love to see Angus’s reaction to use a VzBot at max speeds :)

[@PaulDominguez]

Great video review. The thin throat makes it too easy to break. It would been nice if they did like the mosquito or the dragon which has posts.

[@MakersMuse]

Yeah, two thermally insulating posts to resist torsion would set my mind at ease when changing nozzles.

[@PaulDominguez]

@@MakersMuse Accidents happen, is possible to remove one of if it breaks?

[@BeatMaster-wd7oi]

I wish you can do another video on upgrading this or adding stuff to your 3d printers

[@ManIkWeet]

Have you printed everything on that wobbly table? That might explain why the cat failed at nearly the same height. I've never seen such violent wobble before :D

[@MoeReefs]

I couldn't tell if it was the table or actually the tronxy that was flexing. But I'm leaning more towards hermera heat creep as the cause of failure.

[@ManIkWeet]

@@MoeReefs I think I saw one clip where the spool holder, placed on the table, was wobbling at the same intensity.

[@catsnackz]

Well it succeeded when he changed filaments. Maybe it's a combination of heat creep and retraction? Maybe the silver handles retraction better in a way that it didn't cool too high up the hotend?

[@MakersMuse]

I'm not 100% sure why the yellow cat failed but will do some investigations. Sadly yes the table is mega wobbly - almost all my desks are foldable to free up space and they're REALLY wobbly. I'd love to get a well supported rising table for the studio this year which doesn't wobble.

[@SM3Dcreations]

6:17 reminded me of mighty car mods when he says IN THE BIN haha

[@colinfielder6695]

Great helpful advice Angus

[@gizmobowen]

1,000 thumbs up for the hole to hole tip. That's mega!

[@GraydonL5]

This extruder looks sick!

[@janikhen7736]

I actually observed very similar issues as you did where the filament repeatably wouldn’t extrude at a certain height. I also used a hemera and only had this issue with my white filament, so I assume that it may be due to the white needing more pigment? Nevertheless the solution for me was to clip a microfiber cloth soaked in a little bit of cooking oil on the filament. I also would be interested in why exactly this happens as it seems to be unique to the hemera...

[@davidvalens3337]

have you tried the Dyzextruder pro 1.75mm extruder? would love to see you do a video or a shootout on different extruders

[@electronic7979]

Excellent

[@TheOystei]

If you made that end stop swich bracket a little longer with elongated holes it would be a proper adjustable end stop switch.

[@goury]

7:20 For as much as I dislike many aspects about your content, I have to admit that, unlike other "makers" here on youtube, you are actually professional and I'd like to thank you for providing actually useful professional tips. Usefulness of your tips, even though many are not able to realize it, is at least two orders of magnitude more useful than the next best content. Sincerely thank you.

[@mururoa7024]

Please also review the Bondtech LGX Large Gears eXtruder

[@MakersMuse]

Might reach out, seems like a worthy contender.

[@KiR_3d]

11:25 - is this an earth quake? :)) I've never seen a frame which shakes that much! ))

[@MakersMuse]

Wobbly table... :(

[@KiR_3d]

@@MakersMuse It's good if it's not the printer's frame!

[@vladimirseven777]

Thin stepper motors are fine until they got hot and begin missing steps even with Duet WiFi drivers at 24V. It was smart move. And Trianglelab clone is better as for me due to they solved problem of easy changing nozzle block.

[@M1America]

My hextrudort works perfectly. Maybe pancake motors have issues, but there are other formats.

[@craighwake806]

Would love a video just showing off your mounting and cables management for your music production setup!

[@ReverbTek]

Bondtech also came out with LGX, which is similar to hemera in terms of the function.

[@MakersMuse]

Yeah, it looks quite good honestly.

[@monkeymanstones1]

Speaking of Slice Engineering, would you consider making a new video with instructions on how to set the code for the control boards to use their very high temperature Thermistor? I bought their 450°C unit and my CR-10S, CR-10S5, Ender 5, Robo R2 and Tevo Tarantula Large/Dual units absolutely refuse to function with it even using the TH3D Studio firmware. The professors at University of Massachusetts Amherst find no problem with my code, TH3D Studio gave me very precise and detailed instructions for how to use that Thermistor with their firmware, my multimeter continuity tests show it is clearly connected properly, but I still receive nothing but no Thermistor indications on the screens. Perhaps you're doing so would make the problem I have obvious to me. Thanks for considering it at least, David

[@orimilegov4046]

Yep i had similar issues with Filamentum PLA. I found that due to low clearances in the heatbrake, if you retract and then extrude only small bits of filament before retracting, the filament gets stuck in the heatbrake.

[@chrismanning5232]

That caliper trick to find center-to-center was slightly mind-blowing for me. You glossed over it like it was nothing! Oh the tricks you see on KZbin videos...

[@Zachary3DPrints]

Hey very awesome video Angus

[@Sigmatechnica]

D01 is a great candidate for upgrades, i'm doing one myself with a high temperature heated chamber and increased build volume

[@MakersMuse]

Oh! Increased build volume, how are you managing that?

[@Sigmatechnica]

@@MakersMuse Custom long thin bowden hotend + linear rail mount to get a few cm more x axis and turn the whole top frame with the motors upside-down so motors are on the top to get a few cm more z. print volume will be ~28*23.5*24

[@lennynnnnnn]

@sigmatechnica what firmware are you running and any tips for customizing print settings? Acceleration updates thru Start G-Code in prusa Slicer seem to take.

[@Sigmatechnica]

@@lennynnnnnn I upgraded the control board to a duet, there are so many machine changes by settings won't be helpfull to anyone else!

[@Minionbro360]

Can you do a review of the creality ender 5? I am thinking of buying that but you are really the only person I trust to review 3d printers and for 3d printing advice

[@reaperstudioslondon]

Awesome Sir such a beautiful print! well done :)

[@BurninGems]

Lol, pheonix edition. I get it!

[@bldjln3158]

It dies and comes back out of its ashes (Precipitate of lack of thermal runaway)?

[@F2_CPB]

@@bldjln3158 well that's clever :p

[@peteradshead2383]

I've fitted a Hemera to my Ender 5 plus and now it will print anything at default cura PLA speeds or faster , Using the default cura speed of 80mm/s I've printed TPU and PETG where before I would have had to really slow it down to 30mm/s for PETG and TPU just wouldn't print reliably. Since I've had the Hemera I've had just 1 jam which I think was cause by my dry box ? , I had to remove the heater or thermistor , and them unscrew the heat block and heat break , all while still connected to the printer FUN. Yes , I think printing at high speed does cause a lot of ringing with the extra weight , but for functional part that isn't a problem , just slow the print down a little and it will print like glass.

[@Runoratsu]

„…and you will need to do a final _Titan_ when the whole assembly is at temperature!“ 🤪

[@robertmurgea556]

a good question would be how to set e-steps in that proprietary firmware

[@technodrone313]

so glad creality came out with their own version of this. sprite is great.

[@thomasewing6215]

One thing to try to address that clogging with PLA is to make sure you have good thermal paste application With the heat break. I under did it and got heaps of clogs, but fine now fixed. I think the clogs happen on retract which makes sense on the chin because you’re doing travel moves between the two zones (body and chin). Also a part of the model with heaps of perimeter and not much infill, ie worse for heat creep.

[@g.h.c855]

I've had a Hemera (mine is still branded Hermes so it's a very early one) for over a year. I can't print TPU simply jams after a few layers. I have had several leaks (expensive) and loading filament is very awkward. I suspect I have a VERY early unit. BUT! it prints beautifully in PLA or PETG. Hate the "T" slots though and it's darned heavy!

[@cadmiral3d146]

I recently had a filament failure similar to yours on the cats. There were some just barely out of size sections that wouldn't feed through my capricorn tube. Just sorta stopped. And what threw me was that it happened at a specific time interval. Maybe you had the same thing, or maybe it was the 3d printer gremlins.

[@nickmartin1688]

I know just how you feel about the hated printer wiring! I have been putting mine off for the last two weeks.

[@MakersMuse]

Was actual torture running it through that orange mesh lol. Got the fans wrong, extruder was going backwards... !

[@polychoron]

What is the complete wording of that sound clip towards the beginning about "microscopic world"? It's hard to hear.

[@MakersMuse]

"Now you can discover microscopic worlds" its an old advertisement for a microscope but can't find the original :(

[@carpmon7016]

have you done a wheels verses bearing vid..

[@Jeff-tu8le]

i had an incident with thermal runaway on my ender 3 pro with the 32 bit board when it was less than a year old. luckily i was right next to it when it happened. from what i've read, creality still hasn't implemented thermal runaway protection in the ender 3 printers, so you might consider yelling at them too

[@assuncaP]

Here’s a suggestion. 3d print a template to borrow the holes perfectly. Best solution. Doesn’t need to be too fancy.

[@MakersMuse]

Yeah! I do 3D Printed jigs quite often but for a single measured hole I feel it's a little overkill :)

[@cduemig1]

I did a bondtech conversion and used a MicroSwiss all metal hotend. It was an easy swap. My problem and I believe yours with this printer is the bed wobbles way too much and needs more support.

[@Voiceguitar]

Thanks for the video Angus! I'd love to know what you think the best way to pack a print platter is? Prusa Slicer auto organization button is not very intelligent, since there is no rotation or user specified distance between objects/parts. Please share your thoughts! Thanks

[@Hallslys]

Stringing is part for the game for flexibles? Try the "NinjaFlex Profile - Zero Stringing - Flawless Print " from prusaprinters on your MK3/MK3S. I'm basically printing TPU flawlessly like PLA with that profile. I can fill the buildplate with TPU prints and i won't get a single wispy string. With the hemera you definately should not be getting any stringing, as the system is almost made for printing TPU. Also, if your CF Nylon has a "really rough surface finish" it's probably wet. CF nylon doesn't really string that bad, but it gets a really rough surface finish when it's wet.

[@MakersMuse]

Great profile, thanks. Doing some tests now based off it and also trying external perimeters first - much better on the benchy now trying the wheel again. The rigid ink PA12 CF really is that rough, and actually a little too stiff (you can snap the filament on the roll), I dry it for quite a while before printing.

[@BladeScraper]

Great video, but I was never a fan of the Hermera and the E3D hotends in general. On the Hermera, the heatsink that would normally be used to only keep the cold zone cold is now also keeping the stepper motor (which produces a ton of heat) cool. Just unnecessary. It may work, but the heatsink wouldn't have to be as big if it wasn't also having to dissipate the heat from the stepper motor. E3D just seems stuck with the V6 heatbrake design and refuses to do anything better. I absolutely despise the loose hot block, having to hold the block while tightening the nozzle. And the fact that because the heat brake is the only thing attaching the block to the heatsink, you have to balance strength with trying to reduce heat transfer as much as possible. The result is always a compromise between being too weak and likely breaking if you have any sort of nozzle crash at all, or too thick and doesn't do its job as a heat brake well. The Mosquito, Dragon, DragonFly etc are all amazing hotends, more compact than the V6 with a better heat sink design (quite a bit smaller), and because the heat brake is no longer structural on those, it can have much better thermal properties because it's much, much thinner. And to top it all off, one handed nozzle changes. I wish E3D would do something different. They're a great company and I support them where I can (I always buy the E3D Copper Plated Nozzles), but their hotends seriously leave something to be desired IMO. The E3D V6 was great in its time, but there are much better solutions out there these days.

[@E3DOnline]

Hey, thanks for your honest comments and for supporting us where possible. All we can say is that big things are on the horizon, watch this space, we hope we'll be able to blow your socks off later this year. Thanks, E3D

[@lukinatornator]

@@E3DOnline @BladeScraper This seems like a really genuine, constructive interaction between a consumer with valid criticisms, and a manufacturer who is doing their best to innovate in a new space. You love to see it, and it's great that content creators on YT like @Maker's Muse are able to facilitate it! One of my favourite things about 3D printing is that even relative outsiders/amateurs can and do have brilliant ideas and breakthroughs. It might be the most communal, globally developed technology ever!

[@eagleeyes221]

I generally use a tiny amount permatex copper on the threads. this helps with sealing everything up

[@agl33]

Hey Angus, great project! I own a D01 too, with a similar mod: the stock titan extruder mounted on the X carriage to make it direct extruder, and it works very well! PS: I tested the thermal protection by pulling the sensor cable, and it has it, so that's out of the way! Cheers! PS2: The failure on the cat may be related to the temperature PID: on my machine, it had a +/- 10 C oscillation: this may cause it to swing too hi and then too low when there's a change in flow rate.

[@L3chuckk]

I have this printer with the same mod. I had the same issue with the +/- 10 C oscillation. Made a few PID tunning, and now have only +/- 5 C, example 200° oscilate between 198° and 203°. But still have a problem with layer shift sometimes, especially on some tiny infill areas. The belts are tight, all the machine has litium grease on the rails, steels rods and acme rod. I'm trying with the acceleration and jerk values. My actual values are 1000 acceleration and jerk, and print speed 40/50mms almost time. Do you have layer shift any time?

[@agl33]

@@L3chuckk Hi Diego! I had layer shift problems before, I solved them by lowering the jerk speed (I used a guide, i think on Prusaslicer or Slic3r, but many slicers have guides to set this up) I use 10mm/s of Jerk on an i3 build I have, but on the D01 we should be able to use higher jerk speeds. Cheers!

[@L3chuckk]

@@agl33 i tried from jerk 25 mm/s AND had to decrease to 20, 15, AND finally 10 mm/s. If a use More jerk than 10 on some prints have layer shift.