I set an "Off The Wagon" Kilterboard replica

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Heyo people! For anybody keen to try this, it’s called “Wagon at home”. I went back after filming this and climbed it at 40 degrees, I think it comes in around 7C+/8A at that angle and 8A/+ at 50! I don’t feel particularly strong at this style right now, so my grades could be a bit off. Anyway, give it a go and let me know what you think!

[@BoulderingBobat]

So psyched to try this. Cool to see the actual holds close up the start hold looks dreadful!

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Get it! Knyp skiten! (directly translated its “pinch the shit”, but it means crush it)

[@yaakovcohen1512]

You are actually my climbing inspiration and role model. I don't use to comment on videos online, but I wanted you to know I really appreciate you and your work. Thank you.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Thank you my friend! I really value you taking the time to write that

[@Theboardbro]

These videos are so fantastic and get me so psyched to send my projects!!

[@lucabrito]

The pink V2 in the corner

[@markwing42]

@EmilAbrahamsson in every post comp analysis: "I need to stop trying to break the beta". @EmilAbrahamsson whenever he sees a comp boulder: I think the beta is X but I'm going to do Y. 🤣

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

I’m not very convincing it seems

[@chickenfryz]

Super sick I will try this whenever I got the the gym tomorrow (Coin toss I can even establish)

[@nemovulture]

Calculating the height difference between the 40 and 50 deg Dyno on the kilter move: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Kilter board used in video has the same vertical hold count as the original layout kilter board which has a 12' x 12' board, the vertical bolt count is 18, and we have x, vertical spacing between holds, and assuming on top and bottom have half of x as padding 0.5x + 0.5x = 1x 18x + 1x = 12' 19x = 12' x =12/19 feet Thus, vertical hold spacing is 0.63157 ft, or 7.58 inches - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - SOH Sin(a) = opp/hyp Kilter vertical hyp is 7.58 inch between holds, and total holds moved upward in move are 6 6 • 7.58 = 45.47 vertical inches relative to the board from hold to hold - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 50 deg kilter: Sin(90-50) = x/45.47 x = 45.47 • Sin(40) x = 2.435 ft, or 29.23 inches Height moved vertical relative to gravity on 50 deg kilter off the wagon move is 29.93 inches, or roughly 2 and a half feet - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 40 deg kilter: Sin(90-40) = y/45.47 y = 45.47 • sin(50) y = 2.903 ft, or 34.83 inches Height moved upwards on 40 deg kilter off the wagon move is 34.83 inches, or roughly 2 feet and 11 inches - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - TLDR the 10 degree angle change from 50 to 40 increases the vertical distance relative to gravity needed to get it by 5 inches Correct me if I messed anything up, did this pretty quick.

[@moehassani]

Thanks for this. How does the change in centre of body mass positioning affect this? On a 40 deg wall the body will be closer to the wall than the 50 deg.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

MVP

[@sergiogonzalezcancela4802]

Interesting to see that making it less steep goes harder on some moves.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Yeah it’s funny, the difference can be quite huge at times

[@colehibbard2851]

Campusing gets easier the steeper you go

[@sedistikbutnotreally6358]

Love the videos at the minute! Should we expect to see the video on your training strategies and weight gain soon? All the best.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Yes! I just have to gather my thoughts on it a bit

[@남궁선-k4s]

Great Vid! I would love to see another ver of off the wagon in Kilelter! Would you please let me know what the angle of real one you think it is, compared to 50°?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

The real off the wagon boulder is around 50 degrees!

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

I love your approach to replicas: close enogh moves to actually train, but not being super picky about how close (and hard) the boulder should be compared to the original. I believe it makes you more prone to actually committing on working on it! 90% of climbers just give up on replicas because of the issues you addressed. P.S. That "thank you boulder for letting me play with you"!!! You don't know how powerful is the message you sent to your community, really! Gratitude is considered an incredible coping skill and it is learned and shared! Just wanted to say that and thank you for sharing such positive and psyching vibe!

[@jaredkepner1011]

Emil is leveling up

[@bennettstone3784]

just in the same way we all watched him send story of two worlds, this man is going to do this boulder. mark my words, he’ll do story of three

[@DiscoStruedal]

How do you feel this compares to 'wagon lite' set by keenan? or 'mini wagon'?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Really good question! So those replicas are great for a fun boulder, but imo doesn’t really get so close to the “point” of the boulder, which is a hard first move where you have to latch a difficult crimp. Getting the crimp well enough to generate for the campus is the crux. The holds are also placed so you jump into a compression and they’re much closer, which relieves a lot of the necessary finger strength. The jump move is the easiest move on the wagon lite climb, but in reality it’s sort of the opposite (the rest of the moves are pretty easy, but the jump is hard). That being said I think those climbs are a lot of fun, but maybe doesn’t replicate the boulder very well. This version is far from perfect as well, but hopefully brings the replica a bit closer to the real thing :-) Difficulty wise this is a fair bit harder to me, but it’s also shorter so some might not agree!

[@DiscoStruedal]

@@EmilAbrahamsson thanks for your thoughts and time! Looking forward to the next kilter sesh

[@johnblack7862]

Josh Rundle tried this and said it was V12 (8A+) whereas the real thing is V14 (8B+). I'm not sure what angle he was at however. Wish I were climbing hard enough to try it! But thanks for this Emil

[@derotanim7879]

Should have called it "Off Kilter" haha, that would have been really funny

[@KilterClimbingGrips]

Hilarious

[@LukeMais888]

loved the vid and the set on kilter looks cool :) maybe make it no matching to avoid people breaking the beta if you want a more accurate consensus on the grade. shouldn't matter too much tho lol id imagine most people trying the climb will know what the intended beta is.

[@kangur.i.skalka]

Thank you for populizing idea of setting boulders on kilterboard. There are group of people in the gym that cares about benchmark too much and sometimes making insesitive comments, too much competitive

[@johnnymuller7454]

Have you set more boulders on the kilter board? Seems like i cannot filter by „boulders set by xyz“ in the app 🤷‍♂️ would like to check them out - cause this one is definitely too hard for me 😅

[@phineasg7709]

You can filter by setter. It's the first option on the search filter page.

[@johnnymuller7454]

@@phineasg7709 damn, now i feel stupid - thanks 🙏

[@evansmith3843]

Can we see a moonboard session too

[@KhangLePr0]

wasnt there some rumor that some holds were being chipped, did it feel any different when you were trying it?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

The hold you jump to is apparently chipped somehow, but it was like that the last time I tried it as well, so I can’t say how it was before :-/ from what I heard it makes it ever so slightly easier now

[@JonathanCamp]

App shows you sent it today, or is that just a glitch?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

I shot this a few days ago and came back today and climbed it!

[@jacobscharfman2068]

Amazing vid! How deep would you say the start hold and the crux hold are (mm) on the real thing? ​ @Emil Abrahamsson

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Hmm.. around 20mm? And the thing you catch around 25mm I would say. I’ll bring the measurement-tools next time ;)

[@jacobscharfman2068]

@@EmilAbrahamsson Oh sick! Thanks for the reply.

[@revmorton]

Can you do a review of the new comp drones your wearing?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Short story: best shoe I’ve ever had, excels at everything for me. I’ll see if I can integrate the long story in a video nicely sometime!

[@revmorton]

@@EmilAbrahamsson Awesome! I love my drones but probably favour redlines a little more. No great technical reviews out yet, so looking forward to it.

[@PiotrWojnowski]

Did you try comp boulders because you aren't starting in Championship, or they are not final problems or everyone can try them? 😀

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Oh I’m doing the championships, these are just some comp-like boulders that they set for training!

[@PiotrWojnowski]

@@EmilAbrahamsson Good luck than ✌️

[@Bogey-beauties]

Can you make a video for new climbers, just started about a month ago and would love some pro tips haha

[@tonygunther497]

What’s the name of the song at min 12?

[@fxc5313]

How tall are you Emil?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

6”1’ ~ 184cm something like that

[@isacnilsson7241]

Hej hej!

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Hej!

[@EncleHumpaKev]

When you want a real "off the wagon" but your mum says we've got "off the wagon" at home...

[@jakobelkholtei1425]

old news. I already failed on it multiple times 💪

[@v3rtmedia]

stop wagon abuse!

[@blumain1600]

first comment gang 🗣

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

MVP