"I Should've Gotten A 3hp Saw"

There's a lot of "know-it-alls" on the internet and interestingly enough, they don't usually know it all... at all. Contrary to popular belief, you CAN cut a lot of material just fine with a less-than-3hp table saw. Sharp blades with the right tooth geometry for material you are trying to cut, and the type of cutting you are trying to do, and paying attention to your feed rate can go a LONG WAY. Remember, typically 3hp motors and above require 240v service in your shop. For most of us in a home garage, that isn't available. If you have the right type of power for the bigger motor saw, GO FOR IT! I've never heard anyone say "Gee, I wish I would have gotten a tool with LESS power.". But you shouldn't be afraid to get the lesser powered saw either, and in some cases you can upgrade the saw's motor later on down the road anyway.
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[@ronhochhalter3491]

I totally agree with you. I recently bought a 1.75 hp table saw and with the right blades it will do everything I need it to do. I'm glad you made this video. I'm sick and tired of the internet know-it-all's. All the new hipster woodworkers that believe you have to own certain tools and equipment to be a relevant woodworker and to fit into their niche circles. It's ridiculous how these men and women post and rave about their fancy tools but very rarely produce a product worth getting excited about. The best woodworkers I know don't talk about much about tools. They share their finished projects, not their bank accounts. The same goes for any successful person in life. They don't need to brag about what they have to impress people. What they accomplish says more at the end of the day. The social media/ Internet culture is very frustrating sometimes. The "Fight Club" quote say's it best "we buy things that we don't need , with money we don't have , to impress people we don't like" .

[@kesselrunheroj8497]

Why do you care what someone else thinks about your saw? Its a shame that you care enough about these internet commenters opinions to let it make you "sick and tired" Sometimes we buy things we don't need, with money we do have, in order make our own experience more enjoyable. Lets face it - very. very few people "NEED" a table saw at all as most anything we are doing with a table saw could be done with a handsaw- we "Want" table saws because its easier than doing it by hand, or it speeds up our production. the reason you "want" a table saw at all is the same reason another person might "want" a 3 hp cabinet saw.

[@SeamlessFab]

Gotta be the most insecure post in this thread LMAO. Literally Nobody cares if you got the 1.75. If that works for you, cool. Most of us got the 3HP for the same reason I personally got a larger more expensive CNC router that.. and that is the very sound advice of “buy your second machine first.” I would agree with that ideology.

[@richardlewis8557]

My grandfather and father were both master cabinet makers. They used everything from hand tools to routers. The one common thing they drilled into my head is “it’s a poor craftsman who blames his tools.” The upshot of that saying was that a good craftsman will produce quality work regardless of the tools he has. I’m only 70, but I have used a 1.5 hp table saw for 56 years without any problem. I have yet to find a reason why a 3 hp saw will magically make me produce work superior to what I do now. Faster, maybe, but better? I think not. If you have to have a 3 hp saw, get it but don’t expect your woodworking to magically improve. If it did, we’d all own 7.5 hp industrial saws if we cared a whit about quality. Just my $0.02 worth.

[@ModernRemade]

Nicely put Richard! I cannot wait until I have 56 years of experience, that's amazing and you're amazing.

[@tomobraica4399]

I have bosch table saw, and It is about 1750 w. Anything thicker than 2.5 cm(1 inch) cutting hard wood It is frustating experience.

[@samponette3306]

tomo braica then you need another sawblade.

[@markcolby2927]

@@samponette3306 You mean don't buy the cheapest blade available, 10inch 30 teeth $ 15 harbor freight special, cut through nails don't change it for 10 years?

[@samponette3306]

Mark Colby well that depends a bit 😁 you certainly do not need the most expensive one. The one that does the job, is fairly stable (preferably very stable) while spinning and sharp.. yes!

[@chrisswartzwelder8494]

Blade is everything. As long as the blades sharp I’ve cut with 1 hp saws all the wood in the world. You’ll never have a problem.

[@gregoirepainchaud]

"have you been on the fence for a 3 HP?" Well, the fence is EVERYTHING

[@yvettewallus119]

When I saw your thumbnail and title I thought “oh no!” I’m glad you’re still happy with your new saw.

[@roncurtis224]

I thought the same thing, click bait?

[@brianm.9451]

I have a 3HP SawStop and love it...but: 1. With a combination blade, dense Texas hickory will leave burn marks, even with a 3HP saw. It's a sharp blade but it's not the right blade. 2. When you're cutting sheet goods, 1.75HP and 3HP doesn't really matter. I cut sheet goods with my track saw which is around 1HP. It still works fine since I'm using the right blade. 3. A good blade matters more honestly. My next purchase is a solid rip blade from a good blade manufacturer. On a 3HP saw, the right blade for the right task with make work easier.

[@andrewbieger5004]

I'm a General Contractor who has worked for 35 years using "under powered" saws. I have used , and still use many of the basic job site saws, and currently do some damn decent stuff in my shop with an old Delta Contractor saw (1.5 HP, or possibly 1.75). Regardless of the saw, IF you have it tuned properly, use the appropriate SHARP blade for the task and let the blade do the work, you CAN get great results. Those three items are like legs on a stool: you gotta have all three. I am also willing to bet that many of these guys don't even own a RIP BLADE. I am willing to bet that many commenters on YT aren't even old enough to remember the days when the basic Craftsmen, Delta or Porter Cable Contractors saws were the only option for 80% of the homeowners and woodworkers out there. These were all 1.5 HP motors, and most couldn't even be wired for 220v. My first one did not even have the provision for a blade guard. Only the production shops had a Delta 3-5 HP Unisaw, or the equivalent. Until Grizzly and a few other import knockoffs came on the scene, a 3 horse saw wasn't REMOTELY a possibility for homeowners and the bulk of tradesmen doing this stuff for a living. I have routers now with triple the power of a few of my job site saws, which still get it done ALL WEEK. LOVE the content, by the way.

[@tennesseetimberworkscompan81]

There will ALWAYS be know-it-all douchebags in the world. 90% of the bs comments are from people with no experience or knowledge in the industry. Keep on being you!

[@chadvartanian9125]

Absolutely! Great post👍🏻

[@danmar007]

Interesting statistic. How did you come about it? Because it applies to pretty much everything. These people don't know that opinions are not facts.

[@jkbethune]

@@danmar007 That's because opinions are like assholes,... Everyone has one, but nobody else wants to hear it.

[@blandmccartha]

You made a good decision... But you forgot one thing. Besides using the right blade for the job, it is very important to keep your blades CLEAN. Many woodworkers complain of underpowered saws or dull blades when all that is needed is a good cleaning. The difference in performance between a dirty and a clean blade can be staggering. Enjoy your 1.75 PCS and don't look back.

[@ronhochhalter3491]

Totally agree, that's another benefit to having several different blades, I make a habit of each time I switch blades on a machine, I give them a quick cleaning.

[@ryanbecker6584]

Absolutely right, especially if you’ve been cutting a lot of dimensional lumber or even treated lumber. A good cleaner can remove all that pitch easily and the blade is almost good as new!

[@gregj2647]

Agree with everything you said about your decision. I faced a similar dilemma where I didn’t have the right power in my shop and went with the 1.75 hp. Don’t regret it at all.

[@TheLindsay720]

If only the “dumb information” on the internet was limited to just table saws.

[@scottallen606]

Honestly I thought the same thing. “Why didn’t he get the 3hp?” But you’re a pretty smart guy from what I can tell so i figured you had your reasons. This video makes me feel better about my own “underpowered” saw. Thanks for all you do!

[@blayne2029]

Have been on this same path. adding the new wiring took the sawstop out of my budget. So I went with the 1.75HP. Setting up right now. fingers crossed.

[@mnesvik]

I just bought a Sawstop 1.75 2 months ago ! I agree with you I have not had any issues with this saw ! I have not even used a thin kerf blade even though I have 2. This saw is a beast at 1.75 horse ! I have cut Maple, Red Oak, Walnut, Birch, Plywood, OSB, Cherry, Melimine. I am with you brother. I had a Unisaw 3 horse 10 years ago and my Sawstop 1.75 cuts better than that saw did.

[@MCsCreations]

Great video, dude! I totally agree. And there's another point you didn't talked about. There are people who force the material through the tools instead of respecting it's capability. For example, I have a really small and "portable" table saw I got from my cousin... It hardly has 1hp. You know? But I do every kind of work with it, with no problems. I just feed the material as the saw asks for it. If you force the material against the blade the only thing you're going to get is a burned motor or even worse: a pretty bad accident! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@danielmunch9568]

3 hp? Ha our industrial saws (Germany) have normally 5.5hp and u get them also with 7.5hp

[@myk5486]

Not sure if this has already been covered but can we get a video to better understand all the blade/tooth configuration that was referenced so better understand?

[@InspireWoodcraft]

I’m working on it. I have a whole bunch of different blades that I’m testing but it just takes time to run them through their paces. Stay tuned!

[@myk5486]

@@InspireWoodcraft Thank you! Cant wait!

[@RollingAlaskans]

I just ordered my cabinet saw and I was thinking of calling the store in the morning and dropping the extras (mobile base, 36” extension, dado brake) so I could afford the bigger motor. While the SawStop guys did say I could get a bigger motor later it didn’t really make sense until I heard you say it too. But what made the most sense was reading so many comments here from experienced wood workers that 1.75hp is more than adequate. I’m not a production woodworker, I’m pretty cautious too because I’m not very strong physically - lots of planning involved on how I’m going to lift/move things. When I talked to the SawStop guy I explained I’m not rich so I’m not likely to be running 8/4 walnut through very frequently; but if I did, it would be really slowly since that stuff is like gold! Your words about appropriate blades and the ease of changing them out was also very reassuring. The old table saws I’ve been working with I’ve had to wait for my husband to get home to change out my blades for me. (I have to use channel locks to turn the knob to.raise & lower my blade!). The freedom I’ll have to swap out blades mid day! Can’t wait. You have me super excited about my table saw again! Thank you for this reasonable explanation.

[@jasonchristiansen9063]

I did a lot of good work with my 1.5 hp delta, but when I moved up to 3hp things just cut a little quicker and a little cleaner. Just my 2 cents

[@chuckgrumble5440]

exactly

[@zafarsyed6437]

If your main service panel is 150 or 200 Amps, or more, it's not too hard to add a subpanel yourself.

[@davehaggerty3405]

That’s what I did. I figured a shop needs 240v or you’re always making compromises.

[@ivanscountrymusicandcars2357]

You can cut foam with that saw? Wow! I’m still buying the 3hp.

[@edblough4134]

A lot of today's DIYers have more money than brains, they buy tools that were meant for production work, the type of work their machine will never see in their shops. 3 horse motor and larger saws were designed and built to accommodate power feed. Where board after board is force feed into the machine 8-16 hours a day 5 days a week. The 1-2 horse motor table saw will cut anything a 3 horse will but they may labor if the wood is power feed 8 hours straight. You made an excellent decision now do not look back or over think it.

[@ronhochhalter3491]

You said it right, "more money than brains", after they spend $10,000 on equipment, $2000 on stickers hats and T-shirts with their goofy little logos, then they go to the box store buy materials for projects they think are worth spreading all over the Internet.

[@mikeh4924]

I watched this video 2 years ago when it came out. I finally got my Sawstop 1.75 a few months ago and I couldn't be happier! It does everything I need it to and just for fun, I did run some 8/4 Walnut through it with a thin kerf CMT 250.024.10 and it did just fine. Thanks again!

[@user-de1yh4ww6g]

Have a 2hp 110 delta table saw and a 3hp 220 delta unisaw there is no comparison the 110 easily bogs down from ripping Douglas fir the 220 eats it for breakfast the only thing you get from a 110 cabinet saw over a dewalt jobsite saw is a cast iron top

[@user-de1yh4ww6g]

If your happy with the purchase great but trying to sell people on the fact it's going to be capable of doing anything more than a jobsite table saw irks me when people watching this video could get a nice rigid essentially cabinet saw and have a comparable saw for atleast 1000$ less

[@Mr.GucciClass1A]

Congrats on your saw and thank you! You know it’s easy to watch these videos and not be distracted by “tool envy” in the end, people should choose and buy based on their needs and budget. Makes no sense to get something one can’t afford simply to keep up with the Jones’s. Key term here is: “determine needs vs. wants vs. can”. You’re great man. I love your sincerity, directness and demeanor in all your videos and content. Keep up the good work. You know you have a fan here!

[@luketein7965]

Right on brother I have had numerous guys tell me the same thing with my pm1000 but have had no trouble with cutting anything I have thrown at it. Haters will hate

[@ronhochhalter3491]

Totally satisfied 100% with my pm1000, for the price range I would not consider buying anything else.

[@ForestWoodworks]

My heart broke at the thumbnail, but it was slowly pieced together again. Heart hands 🫂. In all seriousness, I've seen your content a couple times and like your no-nonsense style. Thanks for the review!

[@grumpywiseguy5992]

Same with bandsaws. I almost bought a 220V only, 17 inch bandsaw, but at the last moment decided on a 14 inch, 120V, "resaw" version. When I got the saw, I quickly realized that these saws are quite large, my needs didn't include resawing entire trees, and where was I going to put the smaller saw. Blades are everything on bandsaws as well. Much harder to change out however. Great video.

[@AndyJSThomson]

I’ve been using the same 2hp contractor saw for the last 35 years and it is still going strong. It takes anything I have ever put through it without complaint. Adding more power would not make me a better wood worker, but some of my shop made additions have made it a better saw.

[@mightyporky]

I own several table saws,(7), It is how I feed my wife and myself doing woodwork. My favorite saws are the 113 series Craftsman tools. One I use for a 3/8 inch dado is a three hoss and I think that ts2424 is a hoss and a half, personally I cannot tell much difference. The rest are all plain old one hoss saws. Once I set em up like I need they stay set, I seldom have to adjust one with the exception of a job site saw that likes to dance around. I sharpen the blades when needed but have found keeping them clean is the true secret to a trouble free cut. When I built the shop I ran a couple 240 lines but only use one for the Ridgid saw, the rest are all 120. My wife did the electrical work when we built and remodeled homes and I even let her do some of the shop.

[@Tool-Meister]

When I replaced my 1-1/2 hp Jet Hybrid I opted for the 5hp SawStop. Best money I ever spent. NO burning in 10 yrs of use! Made a believer out of me! Ripping 8/4 white oak, its sound doesn’t even change pitch. Crosscuts, rips, dados, tenons,… no stalling, no burning! Just do it! FYI, I typically use a Forrest 50-tooth combination blade, a 40-tooth flat-top ground Ridge Carbide, and Freud’s Glue Line rip blade. The 50-tooth Forrest occupies the arbor 80% of the time.

[@str8chevys]

1.75 is better than a hand saw

[@mhaz49]

I could not agree more. I have a 1.75HP motor on my saw and it works great for everything. When I work on a piece of 8/4 stock, I do have to slow down my feed rate so not to over tax the motor. Otherwise, no issues. I also do regular blade cleanings, sharpenings and replacements to insure blades are able to do the job for which they were designed.

[@bradfoster5744]

Wow thank you for that video! I was looking to get a 3hp and all the electrical that comes with it. You just saved me a ton of money that I can put into my shop elsewhere. Thank you!!

[@atomictyler]

Hooking up a 220v outlet is a pretty basic DIY job. I would guess the majority of woodworkers could easily handle the job. The most expensive part will be the wire, but if you're not going very far that's not much either. Setting up the Sawstop is likely much more complicated than hooking up the outlet needed.

[@sandykettelhut]

I'm with you! My Delta was 1.5 hp, so the 1.75 is n upgrade. And I need mobility. Can plug it in anywhere in my shop, not just into 220 (we have 220, but my brides kiln is plugged into those 2 circuits.

[@chrissteward1591]

Spot on! I've had the 1.75 hp for a couple of years. The correct blade makes all the difference. I've had 0 problems cutting anything I've thrown at the saw

[@ATAsgard1]

"...And you guys would have nothing to bitch about." Love it. I usually tell people not to feed the trolls, but man that was good to hear.

[@gdreclaimed5442]

I agree with you 100% A saw blade is just a bunch of small chisels, a sharp correctly sized chisel is much easier to control and requires less force than a dull incorrectly sized one. Love your vids, I also have a small garage shop with limited power options.

[@FieldGuidetoDIY]

Well said. Thanks so much for the explanation. Also, right there with ya in your comments on the naysayers.

[@EugeneBentz]

Thanks I am currently on the fence and saving up for a saw so this is great to know.

[@charlieodom9107]

Here is my take on the subject, as I am in a similar situation currently. I need to upgrade my saw, but I find it really hard to purchase a 240v saw due to price. I also need a somewhat mobile saw, as in...I need to wheel it into the driveway for each use. 240v would be a little prohibitive due to weight and outlet location. So, my best bet is to get the most powerful saw that will work on a 20a 120v circuit, without needing to sell a kidney on the black market! My current thought...a Delta 5100T2. About a grand, and has cast wings, so it should be good enough until I have a place for a permanent mounted saw.

[@AB-nu5we]

The riving knives on several 'underpowered' saws don't play well, at all, with thin kerf blades. Agreed with the rant. And future proofing.

[@robp5575]

I agree with you about the riving knives on “underpowered” saws, but a quick fix is to take it off and sand both sides down till it’s about 10-15 tho under the size of your thin blade.

[@markinmon5766]

I got the 3hp no regrets.

[@TheFishingFL]

I’ve got to say I’ve gotten away just fine with even my contractor saw even.. But that being said I want something that’s got a large, smooth cast iron surface a greater rip capacity and the power to handle greater work loads. Plus my dewalt saw is incredibly noisy

[@mojorizn72]

Clearly, you’ve chosen food that doesn’t have enough power, your head is unable to grow hair!

[@josecartagena6019]

Concur! I often use a 1/16” x 8” blade with stabilizers on my Powermatic 64a. Works great! Unfortunately on a Sawstop, the brake will not allow that configuration.

[@John-mn7op]

Thank you so much! Now I can get a sawstop- installing 240v is impractical in my situation, so I was about to give up on a sawstop cabinet entirely, because according to the internet it’d be foolish to choose 1.75hp.

[@mrupholsteryman]

Next thing out will be the Tesla table saw that is full battery and connected to Sawstop tech and also conected to Bluetooth so that IF the blade nicks the skin it will also call 911 (depending on the place the police may be defunded) but the blade will sense your blood type and THEN send out to the nearby medical services that you have either the need to require your blood type...OR depending on the mishap ....they'll be notified where you are so that YOU can donate a large amount. This will be a gov't approved saw... Will there be a gov't "kickback" with this? The possibilities seem endless. Thanks for not giving us something to complain about...haha! 😀😇😎

[@jaytrent62]

if you dont have a 10HP 3-phase 440v saw with a 14” blade you really shouldn’t cut anything more than pink foam on it (1.5”)

[@chrispelletier3661]

Thanks for your video. I have the Dewalt 10” Job site saw and love it. I did try to put a full curf blade on it and it definitely struggled. But when I got a good thin curf blade I have been able to cut everything from plywood to 2” maple with no burning. Dewalt said I can put a dado stack on it but wonder if you have any experience with this saw and using a dado stack? Thanks Chris

[@ahdam82]

I’m going to pick up a 1997 grizzly G 1023 3hp cabinet table saw with extension table. This lady I know husband passed away so she sold me this cabinet table saw and the festool Kapex for $600. I feel bad getting it so cheap, but she just wanted it to have a good home!

[@hansangb]

What dem arms on the table Jodee!!!! Will you never learn!!!! Oh wait, you insulated your garage. Never mind, carry on. 🤣

[@peterszutu555]

I bought a SawStop 3 hp PCS and it’s very, very nice. But my rant would be the Premium Fence. It works but it’s smaller and not as rigid as the T-Glide fence. Plus, it’s not easily modified like replacing the face with an aluminum extrusion, not possible. Don’t make the same mistake of not ordering the T-Glide upgrade at time of purchasing the saw. A new T-Glide is fairly expensive. Having already spent a few hundred on the Premium, makes the T-Glide even more expensive. I bought it from Grizzly and they don’t take returns or exchanges and SawStop will not do exchanges either, even when in original shipping packaging, unopened.

[@wb_finewoodworking]

While I did upgrade to a 5hp SawStop in 2007 prior to that I used a very underpowered Craftsman table saw that I bought new in 1976. You are correct, 1 1/4 hp can do a lot of cutting and SawStop makes it easy to upgrade later. I also love the ease of changing blades on my SawStop plus changing between the blade guard with the riving knife to just a riving knife is even easier.

[@benferguson5929]

I don't disagree with anything you said about the fact that almost nobody "needs" a bigger hp saw for 99% of woodworking, I just wanted to let you know that if you have multiple circuits in your shop, you can have 240v in your shop, even without a sub-panel.

[@chashint1]

Do I like the SawStop 3hp PCS better than the 1.75hp hybrid saw I used for 12 years? Absolutely. Would I like a 1.75hp PCS equally as well? Maybe. Since I would not know the difference between 1.75hp vs 3hp firsthand I would not know what the extra power feels like. My experience is, the power can be felt on almost every cut, on 4/4 and thinner stock you know it’s there and can feel it, but it’s also kinda irrelevant, when cutting 8/4 hardwood the 3hp just works better, I cut lots of 8/4 stock with the old saw and 1.75hp gets the job done, but 3hp just gets it done better.

[@Shannon-v3r]

I have the 1 3/4 hp delta from Lowe’s, the line of CMT ITK blades. When that saw is dialed in, it’s really quite amazing. I’ve resawed oak, maple, walnut and cherry, can get glue line rips with no up/down method, 6 quarter has been no problem in any of those species

[@waynebooker498]

... and then there are the "Safety Experts" whenever electrical work it brought up. (rolling eyes). My trusty old Unisaw was 1.75hp and I used it for many years and built lots of furniture with it. Only one time did I ever have the motor bog down when feeding a thick plywood sheet in crooked. There is nothing wrong with 1.75HP motor.

[@DavidDrobczyk]

Always appreciate your videos! I am just about to purchase the 1.75 hp since I also do not have the power to run the 3 hp. You make a solid argument...use the right tooling for the job!

[@UncleSarkis]

I have been wanting a 3HP saw for a long time, however, I have come to the realization that my statement is true as it is, I have been wanting. My original Fusion from Laguna, 1.75HP does everything I need it to. Being in the military and moving every couple years, that may be something I will do when I finally settle in the last place I move. I too just resawes 6" cherry with my 1.75HP 110-120V saw using a thin kerf CMT 24t rip blade, I did not feel underpowered at all.

[@pt68picaso]

Title is click bait. Brut Force Method, or BFM says it best. Those without the know-how use BFM. 1HP = 746 Watts. Just like drilling a hole in steel with lubricant causes ⅒ the stress than without it, a having sharp blades, and tools in general, is all part of good maintenance.

[@TheWrinkledCheese]

I have a 1/2hp 9" beaver rockwell circa 1970s weighing in at about 65kg/145lbs. My "underpowered" saw doesn't have a splitter or riving knife, nor does it need one. I'll sooner stall the motor/blade than experience a kickback. I have to go real slow ripping sugar maple, or even 1" of pine. I am using a combination blade, 9" blades are not common and more expensive than 10". My last/first saw was a 3/4hp 10" that did have a riving knife, but I've stalled that too when ripping 4x4 without the riving knife. That table was so light, I had a kickback with 1/2" sheet plywood, the saw tipped backwards. I'm glad physics was on my side that day. I could carry it with one hand, weighing in at only 21kg/47lbs.

[@LTVoyager]

Unless you are cutting 4” thick oak all day, you don’t need a 3 HP saw. Sure, if you are a production shop and run your saw 8 hours a day or you regularly cut 2” and thicker material, then the increased speed you get from a 3 HP or larger saw will make a difference. For a typical small cabinet shop or DIY homeowner, a 3 HP saw is just wasted money.

[@GregHorton-z3b]

Thanks for the video it helped a lot to decide on power. I will buy the 1.75 HP.

[@jeffhildreth9244]

In 1985 I bought a 5hp 12" table saw made in Taiwan. It was $1500 USD. It had a sliding table and a 1 " arbor. In 5 minutes of use on 3/4 pine the motor burned up. I called the dealer, he called the importer/distributor who said piss up a rope, you're an owner, deal with it. The dealer , Santa Rosa Tool in Calif stepped to the plate and offered to pay to have the motor rebuilt. I lived 150 miles away. Took the saw to a local pro motor repair/builder. He said the motor was at best 2 hp and crap windings and bearings. They rebuilt the saw for $115 to a full American 3 hp. It has now been running well for over 35 years. Don't trust HP ratings from machines made in Asia. Don't assume you have quality wiring or bearings. As their are 12 battery manufacturers in the US and hundreds of brands, there are a few machine makers in Taiwan and China and hundreds of brands. US greedy importers specify the quality and pass it on to you. Do not assume you are getting what you pay for .. to include all the major brands such as Powermatic, Saw Stop, Power Matic etc.

[@davidpower1843]

Sounds like the woodworking world’s equivalent of “needing” to have a dually Cummins diesel. I wasn’t even aware that I should have been concerned that I only have a 1.75hp. I run my saw hard and it’s only ever struggled once - cutting a really deep 45° bevel on a not-so-straight board. But I do have a nice collection of appropriate blades. I think your money is better spent there than on more power you may only ever need a few times. Like buying high quality tires for your truck

[@enzprintco.8625]

Yea man that 1 3/4hp is garbage and a complete waste of money. You should just give it away. I’ll give you my address... 😝 Some people bitch for the sake of bitching. If you’re happy, who gives a crap. I’d love to get a sawstop sometime soon and I’ll probably go with the 1 3/4hp saw as well! Keep making cool stuff brother! :) 🤙❤️

[@vikassm]

Armchair generals often forget the rating means 3hp MAXIMUM power! Obviously the machine consumes a small fraction of that at idle. May consume an additional 2w if you're cutting paper. May consume 1/4HP cutting 1/8th inch veneer. Keep moving up in thickness and power until the rated power is reached. The motor consumes a lot more power right before stalling. It is not uncommon to see a 3HP motor consuming 4HP or even more before it stalls. A higher power rating for the motor increases the available performance headroom. I've seen really old table saws running huge, heavy 1/2HP motors which could cut lumber just fine. A sharp blade negates the need for higher power. Conversely, a dull blade consumes much higher power.

[@sewinvicta9274]

1:40 Regarding the 240 V (a couple people have already pointed this out in the comments), if you have 120 V, you have 240 V, and you don''t need an electrician to do it for you. Once you've done the research to learn how to do it per code, you'll be amazed by how simple it is. You then can spend the money saved to buy any blades you'd like, and use them on a 3HP saw, i.e. you can have the best of the two worlds, AND the peace of mind that no one can out-do you without a Felder-level budget.

[@wernerviehhauser94]

Over here in Germany, even cheap saws often come with 2000W or more power (we have 230 V and 400V three phase everywhere). Maybe this causes some degree of ignorance towards tooth geometry and blade sharpness (combined maybe with „too lazy to change the blade“). Tim „The Tool“ Taylor - style „More Power“ would be a Nice-To-Have.

[@kennethholmes9315]

1-3/4 hp is more than enough power. Wouldn’t get 3 or 5 hp even if I had the choice. And I did. Give me Accuracy. I will pay for accuracy. Have a good one.

[@irakopilow9223]

I have a 1.75hp saw (Jet) at home, but at the community college where I take Fine Woodworking classes, they have the 5hp Saw Stops. I've got news for you...you can still get burn marks in cherry and maple using a 5hp. Like you so eloquently pointed out, it is the blade, stupid!

[@MarcoACasco]

Just get a 3HP tablesaw, hybrid or cabinet type, no induction motor (too noisy, drive you crazy, or, drives neighboors crazy), good saw blades (Diablo kind) and you're all set, not that the finished work will come out better, but, it will all be a much better experience.

[@JoseLoza214]

Lol, people love to give their unwanted opinion. I have the same Ridgid saw you did, but I decided to buy the same Sawstop you have a couple of months ago. I thought, “I’ll keep running the ridgid until it dies, and when it does, I have my dream saw ready to be assembled. Months later, I’m still doing projects with the ridgid, and the sawstop is still in the box. The saw doesn’t matter, what matters is what you do with it. Steve Ramsey makes $10,000’s a year on KZbin with a beaut up saw. A radio host I listen to likes to answer to smart comments like this, “well, maybe you should try that when you have a radio show”. Looks like the people that are hating on you should make videos about their 3hp, 🤷🏼‍♂️. Keep up the great work

[@tcbridges]

This is right where I'm at. I like 220 volt cost to operate but I am just a weekender so not a big deal and I made the mistake when finishing my shop not to add more 220 outlets because its all drywalled and I have ONE 220 line and its to my Washing machine that's in a closet but only 15 ft. away from my saw. O' wanted to ask you what blade did you sue or suggest for cherry and hard maple. Love you advise on this I really need it. I watch all you videos and your always very helpful. TY

[@nhojcam]

HP rating means very little without the correct blade and feed speed. I have a dewalt 7491 that is rated "up to" 2HP, but it does just fine after spending a full day tweaking and tuning it up.

[@CARyan08]

Excellent video, love the subtle humor. I'm a hobby hack guy that likes building stuff out in the garage. I have a Dewalt jobsite saw and have been blown away with what I have been able to do with it. Secret: I keep my blades sharpened by a professional, and I keep them cleaned. Just cleaning the blades a couple times a year is huge for cut performance.

[@chanel45151]

I loved the rant. 240v availability is a big determinant. Anyone thinking about tool selection will know how, I'll say ill-informed, it can be to provide recs for others. Keep up good work, Jody. Your stuff is always "here's what works for me, and why".

[@ronmckenzie386]

I think everyone that has a negative comment and or something to say about what you have going on should just go pound sand. Btw thanks for all the awesome videos and tips n tricks.

[@stankolodin5586]

"I did you guys a favor". The internet has peaked. I feel like telling this man should have gotten a 3 hp table saw is like a car spinning it's wheels in mud, a waste of energy and time. Dishing out unsolicited advice is a disservice everyone and unconstructive behaviour like that should stop. Watch me give advice...

[@seanobrien5619]

Finally someone had enough balls to shut up those other people who have more money to waste than experience to rely on, I've been using a 1 1/2 hp delta for maybe 10 years and before that a lousy craftsman table saw for 40 years ,and never had an issue. Of course I always dreamed of getting a 3 hp cabinet saw primarily to keep more of the dust under the saw instead of all over me and the floor but from what I have seen none of these so called wonder saws can totally eliminate the dust sufficiently enough to justify spending 2 to 3 thousand dollars. Not to mention alot of those saws have either parts missing or set up problems. I think I'll stick with my delta, then get another delta and out a dedicated dad blade on it and use it as an out feed table to boot .

[@jkbethune]

Always remember,... Opinions are like assholes,... Everybody has one,.. but nobody else wants to hear it.

[@JohnyW87]

I really like your opinion about this causes,and your down to earth way of making your decisions.Totaly agree with it.Asking the internet about stuff you’re not 100% sure about,leaves you absolutely clueless afterwards if you watch comments in forums etc.Some people can’t be pro something,while not hating other people’s solutions.Keep it your way,it is real and straight,and exactly what your subscribers like about you.

[@russellcasperson6695]

I know I wish I got a 3hp saw I didn't think I would work with as much hardwood that I do but I bog mine down all the time. The strange thing is that I got worse performance using an expensive Forrest blade. I think I need a more powerful motor to spin that heavier blade but idk. You can make any saw work just need to work around the limitations.

[@earllorange7418]

For a couch-potato 5 hp wouldn't be powerful enough 😩😩😩 . F... the haters ! They will always find a reason to complain .

[@nickheryla]

I have the delta you buy at lowes and some three good quality blades, has handled everything nicely. Would I love a big powerful one, sure, but that thing cuts wonderfully and has a steady and accurate fence.

[@justindaywoodworking8380]

thanks for the info, getting ready for a major upgrage

[@scottrevere5368]

Good points on the saw blades and great decision on the table saw. I too purchased the 1.75 SawStop and couldn't be happier with the quality of saw and cuts. I did upgrade to the 240v because I kept tripping breakers with the shopvac/dust collection (I have a fridge and other things in my garage pulling voltage). So I ran my own 240v line from my breaker. worked well for me. But stick to your guns against those nay-sayers.

[@chuckgrumble5440]

I'm glad it works for you. I'll just keep ripping 8/4 purple heart with 80 tooth and 3hp.

[@Richard-wk9le]

Using a Table saw is really about 3 things The right blade A sharp clean blade and tip speed - if you do not over feed the material or try ripping with a crosscut blade your be fine, you may over load the circuit the saw is on or may need to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Use the saw within its designed ability.

[@reynaldovalle1773]

as long as it does the job it does the job but what's the difference as long as you're happy with it that's what counts sometimes people don't understand other people's pockets get it so as long as you're happy everybody's happy God bless everyone.

[@foodparadise5792]

I just route my own 240V receptacles. I can't imagine the extortion amount if I call out an electrician. Always safety first and use common sense.

[@wesrobinson7366]

i am in the same spot. I don't listen to comments for the most part and talk to pros who I've got to know building houses. Putting in more power to my detached shop would be a pain so going with the 1.75 and of course would like more power. Hey I'ld like to be a billionaire too, but life is not always about what you want.

[@ralphlivingston894]

What are people talking about? I’ve never heard comments from a saw stop owner saying that there saw was underpowered. If you ever get to the point where you are actually unhappy, you can sell your saw stop for darn near what you paid for it and move up to the next model. Some people are just contrarians. Maybe they’re jealous that you have a saw stop?

[@snakedude61]

I don't know why you don't see the same comment on channels where people are using contractor saws or hybrid saws. That are probably at least a quarter horsepower less than the 1.75. It's probably just a level of snobbery that shows up when you get to that price tag and cabinet saws.

[@bugnurddesigns5268]

Amen! I clicked on this ready to make the comment “you need a new blade!” I was in the same boat (no 220v, too expensive to run a sub panel) so I ended up getting the PCS175. I was actually kind of disappointed and starting to regret it, until I switched out the stock blade with a Ridge Carbide Superblade. Then it cut like butter, smooth and burn free. I’m going to be moving into a new shop soon, which will have its own panel so I’ll have 220 available, but honestly I think I’ll stick with the 1.75hp. Dust collection, on the other hand, will get a dedicated 220v circuit. Cheers!

[@TM-rp7bd]

Curious.....my shop is about the same size as yours. How much was the electricians quote to add outlets and bring in 220?

[@tommurphy6058]

Just a side note you showed what i think was a red diablo saw blade and from what i have read SawStop does not recommend painted blades as its safety feature may not work fast enough with one

[@Demon_Mx2277]

A 1.5hp saw is perfect for anyone who works out of their house. The only ones who need a 3hp or larger saw is for those who do a mass production on an item that doesn't really change much but need the power to pump out high numbers in 1 day.

[@thomasbacon]

I cut thousands of 7/8”x7/8” box joints with a dado on a 1.5 HP Ridgid. Never had an issue related to the power of the saw.

[@hjboots]

If you are like me i don`t give a hoot about what people have to say about what i buy or the what i build. It`s mine i payed for it, it work`s as i want it to and i am very happy with what i purchased or made so there . Some people just need to bitch about everything, so i say to you congrates on your purchase and i can`t wait for your next video.