I Tried - and FAILED - To Start This Forgotten Ford Zodiac

[@lauraiss1027]

What a charismatic dude. I know nothing about cars, filming, cameras or so, but I know about struggle, desperation and frustration. And throwing money at problems. Week ago my home heating system failed. I bought new radiator that was not heating up, for 250Eur. Turns out small washable filter was clogged. 0eur 5min fix. I've got radiator that I don't need for myself this Christmas. Some get Playstations, some get new fancy sneakers, I've got 2m long tin radiator, 50Kg of pure joy. But on the other hand, now I know how heating system is made and what these components do and how to tell when they fail. Just for 250Eur. And I've got an extra radiator as a bonus!

[@pedrokd5439]

Put the spare radiator in another room, run new pipes, etc. Good learning curve for maintaining your castle 🎉🎉

[@pedrokd5439]

I remember the mk3 zodiac's, very stylish car in its time, powerful, bit flashy, nice.

[@mateighiorghie8404]

Hello. You could try taking the top cover off and see if any valves are stuck, eventually you could free them by gently tapping on them + plenty of lubing (try with a wooden/rubber hammer maybe). Also, I've recently encountered similar blow-off effects through the carb on an engine that apparently had the timing set way off. It was actually mounted the other way around and I had to reverse the firing order as well and it worked. I'm also a beginner car enthusiast but felt like these might help.

[@nigeltoon1848]

Suspect the two cylinders with low compression will also have valves stuck open. Rocker cover off, rocker shaft off, look for valve springs in compression (valves stuck open). Plenty of plus gas around the valve stem, wait, then smack the top of the valve stem with a hammer and brass drift. 😢

[@trainmanbob]

It was back in the 60s when I was a lad that I had my first ever experience of 100mph. It was indeed in the exact same model of car. Memories, memories. Good luck with it.

[@marcduthie4327]

You are so close. Don't give up. That starter could only have a minor problem. I agree remove the rocker cover and check valves are functioning properly. Love your videos.

[@itsmephil2255]

That's a perfect example of a rust free vehicle.........you bought the car....the rust is free 😂😂

[@bogdangiurgiu3952]

😂

[@aswclassicsiow8588]

Had the Mk3 Zephyr 6 in 1972 when petrol was 33p a Gallon, in 1974 petrol went up to 50p a gallon so I gave car to my dad as I could not afford to run it as was an Apprentice mechanic on £9.00p a week

[@alan6832]

Especially on a Ford, resembling American cars, I suggest Junkyard Digs channel as really being masters of low budget junk car revival, often in the field and then driving it home. Plus their friend, Thunderhead 289.

[@markeyre6916]

if you are going to try starting cars that have been stood along time always take sparkplugs out and lube bores , piston rings can rust and stick so when you turn it over dry it scores the bores losing compression, also its easier to turn over a stuck engine without plugs in it it does sound like your not far off getting engine started , it does sound like timings out, it could also be worth pulling rocker cover off and spinni g it over see if all valves are operating correctly , good luck like the channel it makes a change from all the yank tanks that are on youtube

[@RW-bi2rp]

Well said, i was thinking the same thing. It's amazing how many people that don't bother to lubricate the bores, it's a great way to ruin a good engine, scored cylinder walls and broken piston rings. I have always found a mix of diesel and 2 stroke oil to work the best, also worth adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel that you use to start it.

[@richardharries5825]

Could not agree any more with you. You have given quite a few good tips. But the last line was great. Maybe two or three lines re the highly annoying American yank tanks that are on youtube. With their highly annoying squeaky voices. How bloody annoying is that

[@edwardmulder3777]

Tasty classics is also a good channel to watch

[@markeyre6916]

@@edwardmulder3777 yea he got a very nice MR2 on go at moment

[@Lepraachun]

Don't give up. You actually got it to nearly start!

[@shaungalloway5035]

Check engine earth and clean it up. The battery must show between 12.4 and 12.6 on your voltmeter, before attempting to fit it. Wd40 down the bores and leave for a day or two before attempting to turn the engine over. This may also help release the compression rings a bit if they are gummed up. Hope this helps, don't give up, just walkway and sleep on it. I quite often wake ìn the middle of the night with ideas or the solution! Good luck mate!

[@life952]

Hey!! I just literally subscribed and then in the split second after in the vid you said you were giving up on it. Noooooooo - you have to get it running!!!!!! Its so close!

[@eddiebrown59]

You will get her running but that's the least of your problems. There is a starter immobilizer switch on the Auto box so you don't start in gear that can be by passed so your ignition switch will work on the key. You may have a sticking valve but if your timing and firing order are correct with choke on carb should fire. Hope you can do something with the Zodiac I've driven them for 40+ years no problem. Good luck

[@southard23]

love your videos your hilarious don't ever change the way you do things, I know your gonna be one of the top car pages on you tube one day keep going my only wish is for more videos keep up the work 👍👍👍

[@jackgray1402]

You're editing just gets better with every video. It's always fun to come on these adventures with you. 😁 Keep up the great work sir.

[@z978ady]

Maybe contact someone in the Zodiac owner's club. It is a good example of a sensible middle class English car that should be preserved.

[@davidetchellsetchells4692]

I somehow missed the part where you pulled the sparkplugs and added transmission fluid into the cylinders and let it soak for a day, then turn the engine over with plugs in? Its better to sacrifice a set of plugs then a whole car yes? Ive revived many an old engine this way, some that sat many a year untoutched, the transmission fluid has detergents in it that will eat the carbon and rust off the rings alowing them to expand and raise compression. Its also a good idea to add i qt of transmission fluid to the engine oil and run it untill it warms up, then drop the oil and filter adding new oil and filter. Start there next time, you might be pleasently surprised! Ive been doing this 50 years on all makes foreign and domestic good luck my freind its all learning .

[@mcplindgren]

You and eBay are a dangerous combination 😂 most people drink or do drugs, you buy crusty old wrecks with unlimited amounts of hope of getting it roadworthy again 😆 I love it when I see a new video from you because I know you're getting braver each time 😅

[@krayonss]

you’ve quickly become one of my favourite channels, i think it’s because you just do what i do, waste money and time on expensive corrosion

[@thebarleymow]

I bought a 1954 Morris Minor a couple of years ago. As part of a full service, I went to pour in new oil into the rocker cover and, like you, saw my new oil pouring out past the rocker cover gasket. Oh joy!!!!!

[@peterdavies4807]

Had one of these in the late sixties and loved it, good luck.

[@JamesPropmaker]

Hello really enjoyed the video. My dad got a mk2 zephyr. Here's two tips to help get her started 1. Join two batteries in parallel 2. Take a spark plug out. To help spin it over faster. Once running shut off and put spark plug back on. Looking forward to the nex video

[@Twittler1]

In series, not parallel. In parallel, you’re still working with 12V, but a shitload of current, not the 24V in series wiring provides.

[@grippingyarnsuk]

The noise of that starter was the dawn chorus of the 1970s

[@dieselfunk65]

Ahhh yes, I remember that familiar dawn chorus, I came to realise that it usually came from British cars, Fords Vauxhall, BL and Hillmans 🤣🤣

[@kiwiforever3604]

Those Mk./ 3 Zodiacs still look great. Best of luck in the restoration.

[@WheelchairWonders]

Perseverance and patience.. Please don't give up on it.. The videos are brilliant .. (Phil)

[@Martynjs]

It's been a while since you posted this video, but thought I would mention a few things in case you go back to the car (which may or may not help). I used to help my dad work on cars back in the 70s of a similar vintage to the Zodiac. Particularly on Fords often times the problem was the electrics - which is a very simple system with no electronics or control systems. First things to try: Check earth connections (there may be one or several) and clean the connector and body so bare metal is touching bare metal. Replace any corroded/broken earth straps. Clean posts inside the distributor cap so they are shiny - a bit of sandpaper or a scrape with a screwdriver. Clean the points - a bit of sandpaper - and reset the gap with feeler gauges (if it has them). Clean the inside of the battery terminals so they are shiny and free of oxidisation. Clean the inside of the spark plug connectors with a bit of sandpaper. Clean the connector to the starter motor until shiny metal. Clean any other connections that you can see with a bit of sandpaper. The starter motor has burned out from overheating. If you wanted you might be able to fix it, but won't know until you take it apart. If the coil has burned out then you'll need a refurb (usually swapping the old one) or a new one. If it's the bushes you might be able to get hold of new ones for a few quid. It is probably also worth looking at the carburettor and fuel line to make sure they are clear and not sucking in crap as you test (perhaps disconnecting the fuel line and manually adding a bit of fuel), and priming the carb with clean fuel or using carb cleaner. Anyway, it is good to see the old beauty, and I hope you get it running of you do go back to trying. Enjoying watching your videos/

[@deepakmohan3009]

Don't worry, don't get frustrated. You were close to firing the engine. We all learn as we go along

[@woodrow_mayes]

i love the honesty in your videos, good to see the reality of working on projects. keep it up !

[@ianmckeand2265]

I had one of those in the seventies when they were cheapies. Lovely old thing.

[@mattlaptop5728]

Thanks for creating and sharing this project - Suggestion # 1 : Whip the valve cover off and check for stuck valve(s) that may cause the slow hard cranking and no firing (quick, easy and zero cost) crank the engine with the cover off and observe. And while I’m at it….Tip #1 Always check you can remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. Tip #2 Always refit and tighten any drain plug immediately after draining. Safety #1 Never lay a spanner on the battery. Safety #2 Never use heat/flame within two hours of packing up and going home (fire risk). Just some ideas.

[@chrisaris8756]

Well a sad end. Great looking car though. Don’t give up. Being a Ford of that era it’s incredibly easy to take apart and rebuild just about everything - I spent many hours in the late 60s up to my elbows in them! I’d have the head off for a start and maybe drop the sump and pop the pistons out. A bit of refurbishment there and probably another starter motor oh yes and strip the carb down properly, they are really simple. I had a problem with one blocking on little pieces of rubber coming off the inside of the perished fuel lines - took me ages to figure that out as I THOUGHT I had replaced all the lines then I found one little blighter hiding down the back of the engine!. I’d love to see it back in A1 nick. I’d buy it off you but it appears in Easy Sussex where I live there are no cheapo workshops going for rent so my classic car refurb schemes are all shelves!

[@retrobiker670]

I like you're optimism..'it's all here, so thats good' :-) compliments on a enjoyable video on a cool Ford that is so rare I have never seen one in the flesh

[@kevinjackson7340]

She`s a lovely old thing, definitely worth saving.

[@sionnachog894]

It is not!

[@Vaino_Hotti]

Zodiac is one of my favourite eurofords! Awesome and unexpected to see one worked on on YT!

[@karlkuttup]

i had a 1974 aircraft carrier one the zeff 6 ,body was nice greyblue and black,2tone crayford wheels and badges on it ,the dizzy loved eating its self ,and the pull handbrake was a fancy show bit that never worked ,and a few airflow holes in the floor covered with road signs and duck tape ,that was 1984, swapped it for a viva magnum with ablown head ,keep at it it will start

[@derekstocker6661]

So admire your patience on this one AND your knowledge, never been into car mechanics myself but love driving them. Hopefully you have success with this one, I had Mk4 Zephyr and loved her to bits but she started jumping out of gear so a mechanic said get rid, I did a week later a work colleague came in with what was originally my car as he had fell in love with it, had it for years after that, great car apart from the gear problem that was fixed apparently in two hours! Talk about live and learn.

[@thebarleymow]

Sorry things turned out like that. I’m of an age that my first car on the road was a beaten up 1965 ex post office Morris Minor van. My recently purchased 1954 Morris Minor car needed recommissioned. Every job has been a case of 2 steps forward 1 step back and this is on jobs I have done in the past. I can fully empathise with your frustration. Good luck my man.

[@gala1ish]

I've scanned probably half the comments and no one has yet mentioned blocked jets in the carb. also, if the bores are rusted the high amperage used by the rebuilt starter motor to overcome the rust could have blown a brush wire. good job though. cheers.

[@hoyle-pw3pt]

check to see if any valves are s tuck slightly open , with the low compression it's a good option to check,

[@stewartreadman6220]

I loved watching you with the zodiac. My dad had a malibu executive version in malibu gold .I passed my test in it in 66 .Good luck

[@messylaura]

also check the exhaust isn't 100% blocked with animal nests, seen a couple of times this stopped a car running, does sound like you still need to get a better look at the valve train see whats going on there, would taking the plugs out of the three bad compression pistons only help with the turn over speed and determine if you any where close with the spark, then put them back in when the other three show signs of life even if you get the engine working that shell looks like its suffered salt air damage pretty bad, i've been a panel beater since '86 and shes got alot of work there too still worth doing to a point though

[@BrearleyTV]

such a roller coaster of a video, but refreshing no less. Keep the content coming its great! :)

[@PeterYeadon-js7ou]

Here's a tip. Plugs out, put some diesel down each bore, turn the engine over then leave it over night. Next day, turn it over then put the plugs in only half way. Obviously making sure you have spark and fuel. You can try - surprising- brake fluid down the carb. Just a suggestion. Own and resurrected many old cars. Great channel BTW. Regards Pete Y

[@richardarcher3435]

Great video. This is great fun, there are many videos out there about people who know what they are doing but this original, a guy who doesn't know what he's doing. Love it. I've watched many videos on starting a car that hasn't started for years or decades and I'm always amazed that they don't first take out all the spark plugs and spray some WD40 down there. Is that the correct procedure folks? Try that on your other car that you never got unseized. Give the WD40 time to sink in, then give it a go. Go back and forth, don't keep trying the same way all the time, rock it back and fore. Don't expect it to free first time. Also with the spark plugs out you're not fighting against the compression.

[@brian3174]

I find diesel better as unseizes locked engines overnight wd40 is a degreaser oil not best thing to have inside engine

[@jamesmacdonald3090]

It is a tricky one buying long term non runners unseen, I buy most that way due to my rural location and time. I treat them as total lemons and pay accordingly to minimise getting my fingers burnt. It always helps to know why the car was laid up? You did go at it like bull in a china shop, I would have presoaked the bores for several days, dropped the oil to check for issues etc.. You need to start with a good reliable power supply. The basics of classic car mechanics are pretty much all the same. Might be hard to find a straight 6 Ford engine replacement, few about compared to the likes of Triumph and Jag?

[@kenhawkins5469]

You're doing what you set out to do 😂 make me and most others smile 😊 Thanks. Kenny

[@DavidLangfield]

The more I watch you videos the more I love them. Learning a lot from you as well. Keep them coming mate

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Thanks, will do!

[@alan6832]

@@NotEconomicallyViable You would still get spark at the points even with a bad condenser, unless perhaps it was shorted, in which case you wouldn't get voltage. I think you had a bad ground at the negative point, which you fixed by accident when you changed back to the original points, just because the ground screws were rusted.

[@pedrokd5439]

Replace the coil and add a high torque starter.😊

[@urbanfox53]

Beautiful car back in the day, had one of these in the 1960's designed on american cars, excellent dogging wagon! 😀👍.

[@johnbarr09]

Good old ford never let you down 🤣 1 of two things, take cover off as suggested,.take a plug out and get a camera in there to see if valve is shut, more likely pitted and not sealing properly

[@davehaggerty1120]

You need a ignition circuit before anything will work, as this will activate any cutout solinoid on the carb, you should be able to make a test circuit by putting a wire from positive battery to positive coil. Secondly set up static timing, find TDC on cylinder 1, take off distributor cap, on the distributors outer edge there should be some kind of timing mark, align rotor arm as near to that mark as possible, this should be in line with ht cable 1 when cap goes back on. If the rotor arm doesn't line up rotate the distributer clock or anti clockwise until it does line up, now set points by manually turning engine over until points are at the highest point on the cam that operates the points and set them to correct gap, you should be sorted on the ignition side of things now. Put old starter back on if there's any life left in it, some old starters were serviceable, I remember changing brushes on a old fiat. Anywho hope this is of some help and good luck

[@Fresh-tw7ev]

Well I’m sorry it didn’t go your way but you gave it the old college try. So happy I found your channel. From Ohio, USA

[@martinplayford6786]

Well done mate you had a good go. Lot of good advice below. If I were you I would get another pair of hands or alternatively a remote starter switch. In my opinion you need to be opening up the throttle whist cranking and pumping it a bit. Try playing with the choke and you can't do this only 2 hands. As has been said, pop the rocker cover off and check for stuck valves and at the same time check that no.1 piston is at TDC (both inlet and exhaust rockers, rocking), the timing mark on the crank shaft pulley should be near its marker arrow on the timing chain cover and the rotor arm should be at or close to its terminal in the distributor cap. Take out the plugs, put some auto trans fluid mixed with Diesel into the bores and turn the engine over on the starter motor so you can get the engine as free as possible to give the starter a chance when you put the plugs back in. If you haven't already watch Derek on Vice Grip Garage, a fantastic channel and see how he throws the kitchen sink at the engine when trying to start it. Try to be as methodical as posssible but for a man with limited experience you are doing great.

[@MyJon64]

I'd personally put the compression issue down to sticky values! Back in the day I hated those Zenith carbs, SU's and Stromburgs are far easier to service and understand in my opinion. You need to look at compression first then ignition. The Easy Start should react instantly and fire the engine if both these are good. Back in the day when I had issues like this I'd disconnect the car ignition wiring circuit and replace with new temporary wiring! You just can't expect any of those wires to still be serviceable on a 60 year old car!

[@tonycalow708]

1st thing you do is lube the cylinders to get the engine turning over easier and get the compression up to a level to start an old engine that`s been standing. 2nd check for spark. Clean/replace points where necessary. I change the spark plugs to stand a better chance of the engine starting. 3rd get the fuel system working or lash up a temporary one. Fresh fuel makes it easier to start an old motor! Also pouring a little petrol down the carb helps get the engine started. I used to work on all my old bangers in my youth and set the 3 rules in stone as some of my bangers had one wheel in the breakers yard and were recalcitrant sods to get started!! I drive diesels now. If they don`t start its due to an ageing battery or something really simple like running out of diesel!! (Yes, I`ve done that!) I learned the hard way by being skint so you learn ways around the "Parts Cannon" approach but sometimes you have no choice. A good KZbin channel to get clues from is Vice Grip Garage when he goes out in the wild and has 600 miles to drive home in the States. Well worth a watch!

[@usernamesreprise4068]

Back in the sixties my stepfather owned a 1964 Zephyr 4 which was apparently an ex police plain clothes patrol vehicle, it was the only one I ever saw that had factory fitted four speed floor change with a backwards curved chromed gear lever that was almost horizontal at the top four inches and a bench front seat with a small semi circular recess in the middle of it to select 2nd 4th and reverse without snagging the seat, every other zephyr/zodiac mk3 I ever saw had a coloum lever in both manual or automatic with or without optional front bench seat which didnt contain that cut out in either version. If only you could roll the clock back and grab a car and hide it away for future posterity ! although as a fourteen year old petrol head at the time I was more than pleased when he traded it in for a newer Corsair 2000 E. The stupid part for me is, though I have had hundreds of my own vehicles during my 50 year driving career - THAT car and the Corsair are the only one's I can still remember the registration of instantly .

[@jacquespoirier9071]

in summer, even a "0" compression gas engine should start if the timing of the ignition and the camshaft is OK, the spark is OK and the fuel is OK, for sure that is will have no power but it will start, Don't give up

[@robstirling3173]

Sounds like you may have a bad battery or bad battery earth? It should crank faster. Have you got the firing order correct? 153624 . No 1 is at the front of the engine. Distributor timing could be out? (Advanced) No doubt the carb will need a clean. Compression test should be done with the throttle and choke plates wide open. A 'dry' test, followed by a 'wet' test ( squirt of oil down the bores) will give you an idea if the bores/rings are good or not. sometimes an engine with poor compression will start if the bores are oiled.

[@beer_goggler]

Check and recheck everything. If you have spark, correct timing, some fuel in the system, compression and can turn the engine fast enough and it still won't start, check the exhaust is not blocked.

[@angelajones2095]

Me personally, I would borescope the chambers, throw down some acetate, (if needed) leave it for a couple of days to dissolve any crusty rings, check the valves and rockers, re seat if necessary, lube it all up, change the oil and filter again, re visit the grounds and wiring, rebuild the starter, carb and re seat, then check for spark and fuel, use a gravity fuel line rather than easy start (too much ethanol is bad), and then give it another go. If the piston rings have gone, there's not a lot you can do apart from a full engine re build.

[@joeedwards627]

You talk shit, you personally have never done anything

[@colingianella7172]

Take out the spark plugs and clean them with your Easy Start and warm them up to give them a chance. While they are out, put a piece of masking tape over the plug holes and turn the engine over by hand and confirm the firing order and adjust the timing accordingly. Refit plugs, cross fingers and try again. If not , take head off and inspect further, valves, pistons etc. GOOD LUCK !

[@danieleaton1399]

Its so close to starting dont give up on it yet , i wouldn't keep spraying easy start down it as they dont like it

[@cobbler40]

The fact this car exists is amazing. Most Fords produced in the sixties only lasted about 3 years before they went to the rust graveyard .

[@yvindpetterson8598]

Had a good laugh over this video- although I feel a bit sorry for you. And you sure know what happens then! Cheers mate!!

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Holy moly I’ve somehow only just seen this. Thank you so much once again 🙏🏻

[@yvindpetterson8598]

@@NotEconomicallyViable no problem, as long as you spend your time making new content! 👍😁

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Every single second of spare time I get currently goes on making new content haha

[@SELondonUSA]

I'm new to your channel and enjoyed this video very much. I remember these great cars from the 60s. A favourite of mini cab drivers, as were the Mark IVs. Good luck to you.

[@malcstanley229]

My dad had the earlier model(1958) which helped me learn to drive at 17, 3 speed, no syncro' on 1st, bench seat at the front, fuel cap under the rear number plate,and wipers that worked on vacuum,the faster you went the faster the wipers went, when I passed my test(1970) I was so popular with my mates and a few girls, my dad god bless him used to lend it to me at night as long as I paid for fuel and insurance, this comment is no help to your problems and the car finally died with rust,one day he tried to jack it up,the jack went up but the car did not?.But I really did enjoy your struggles.

[@buickmclean8163]

As I remember it , the faster you went the slower the wipers went . At tickover they were 19 to the dozen , at 60 mph they hardly moved . Best wishes to you : )

[@TonyJarrad]

Please don't give up on the mk 3 zodiac it will take time and energy I've been down this road myself but in the end it's worth it.old fords never die.👍👍✅

[@hemtet5500]

We had a Zephyr 6 so we looked down on the Zephyr 4 owners but were humbled by the Zodiac owners I’m still slightly in awe.

My respect! It is nor usual to see someone sharing a fail. You tried, budy!

[@rhyslambert613]

The editing and humour really jumped up a notch on this video, great work dude, really enjoyed it!

[@retrorusticsRSA]

Felt your pain during this episode, loved the commitment and comic relief. Keep on pushing, would love to see this car running and driving. May see it do a few laps around a race track.....

[@trevatkin4869]

What a brilliant channel. I feel your pain. I think every person who has ever worked on a stuborn car is with you here. Brilliant content though.

[@Mr93616]

plugs, points, condenser ,clean fuel filte,r clean carb ,,use air line to blow fuel lines out and carb, sort cut to fuel pump ,hose into fuel in glass bottle then into pump, It did fire at one stage,so it can only be as i have suggested, you have probably burnt out starter

[@sicks6six]

daft question, It has fresh fuel in it, and remember this is meant to run on leaded fuel, and that stater might not be an issue, A new battery and connected to another car to really power it up and spin it as fast as possible, stuck top end maybe, not opening or closing,

[@markthorne5025]

That 2.5 straight six is a fantastic Engine. Pulls like a train and lovely sound .Did you drain fuel tank and remove check for dirt rust, it could have crap blocking fuel line as laid up many a year.

[@HowardLeVert]

That's one of the very last Mk. III Zodiacs as the Mk. IV was announced on 20th April 1966. It appears to be the same colour as my father's Mk. IV Zodiac was - Amber Gold?

[@chrisaris8756]

Me again, just realised that must have been one of the very last MK3 Zodiacs being a D reg - the square MK4 was coming out by then.

[@aswclassicsiow8588]

You are right The Mk III range was discontinued in January 1966, and the completely new Zephyr/Zodiac Mark IV range was released in April 1966.

[@Mel-ml7eg]

Great video, i cant wait to see part 2, dont give up, i have many problems with old motors and sometimes you cant stop thinking about possible causes why it wont start, you done well, and i am sure you will get success soon, well put together video and refreshing not to hear music blaring out, as so many videos seem to have this aspect now, we are all learning and you explain things well, with a good bit of humour as well ! A lovely car, you will enjoy driving it once you get it done.

[@VDP-if9no]

Looks like an Executive model. Quite rare.

[@davehitchman5171]

tricky without seeing it first hand, but my guess would be to be checking the mixture, spark and timing. The engine was clearly trying so it really isnt far

[@jonathanbroughton5983]

Hats off guys n gals a valiant effort

[@brianfearn4246]

This reminded Me of the 60s early 70s when the zephyr & others like it wouldn't start in the mornings and neighbours helping each other with push starts & jump leads and at the time the cars were used daily if they started 🙂

[@dungbetel]

You are a very very very brave man... PS: If you're pouring from a full container, try holding the spout the furthest away from the funnel (works with milk cartond too). Best of luck mate!

[@thomasmyers4089]

With an engine which has been standing, plugs out. Spray cylinders with wd40, leave overnight to loosen piston rings, not oil as this will foul plugs. Check timing, on no 1 cylinder tdc, valves closed. Turn back to btdc firing point of engine. Remove points cover and check distributer rotor points to the lead that goes to lead that goes to number 1 cylinder. Check firing of that particular particular engine IE, 1,3,2,4. And check as you turn engine that distributer rotor pointes to that lead that goes to that particular cylinder at btdc.

[@stuartroberts2537]

Don't give up these are nice cars don't scrap it take bit time out and go back to it I want to see more

[@williamduncan5679]

First, firstly find the firing order then start from the spark plug nearest to the radiator that's number one the take the distributor cap off and check which way the router is turning it should be anti clock wise and be pointing to number 1 plug lead in the distributor cap then go to number 2 plug lead and follow the firing order, right to number 6 remember shortest plug lead to number 1 and so on

[@nigeltoon1848]

Get a copy of the AA book of the car. Read it. Published in the early 70’s, it will steer you through how to diagnose and fix why it’s not starting. It will be a mix of timing, and the starter robbing the ignition system of current (because the engine is partially seized). Give the coil a separate 12v supply from a different battery, fully charge the one one the car, and use the jump pack. It will start.

[@malcolmcowan9554]

I have one of those old books lol

[@simonwoodward438]

Those were rusty when I was a kid and I am pushing 60! Fair play for having a go.

[@andrewsmith9933]

Having been stood for so long I would get it running and let it warm up and go through a few heat cycles before taking it apart too far, checking the valves from above would be worth while though.

[@KentDiego]

With spark and compression it should pop with ether. My guess is the distributor gear is off a few teeth or valve timing problem.

[@williamkennedy5492]

I owned two of these Zodiacs, and they last a very long time, take the head off or at least see if the valves are moving, You can decoke the head in leas than 3 hours thats on and off and start. I would have used redex down the cylinders first before turning the engine over. That starter sounds as of its labouring i think as i said head off time. Check the earth connections. What's the rest of the car like underneath, those fords always had problems in the spring hangar area with rust !AND i don't see any plates on the MacPherson strut tops which is good. One thing i do remember is frequent stops at fuel stations, but recall petrol was 7p a liter then. I like the car but have my old 1989 R129 SL Merc to play with and an W212 E class that's a real pain, plus wife's Astra , pity as the Zodiac needs a good home. Hope you recant and give it another bash, those old fords take a lot of hammer. We use to call them gleam machines, and now as i approach 73 its a good memory thank you. Lastly blue block original engine red block recon engine. If its black someone's painted it. Core plugs may need renewing too.

[@whizzrinaldo]

I really love your video's, please keep doing them!

[@davewallace5008]

Seems like a stuck valve or valves to me, the backfiring is indicative of this. Also the carb needs to come off and check all the jets, emulsion tube etc. Sometime a sticking float needle will stop fuel flowing it could be that as well, if you know the timing to be correct, easy enough to check, it should fire up with all the other checks sorted.

[@KiwiCatherineJemma]

Many years ago I had an old car parked up that I hadn't used for awhile. It refused to start on either of the, two old, but halfway good, batteries that I had. I had a slow battery charger. So every week for 4 weeks in a row, I would over the course of the week charge up both of those old batteries, takes about 2 or 3 days on the slow charger I had, then come Saturday I would put one battery in the car. And key the starter until the battery was flat. Then swap batteries and key the starter until the other battery was flat. I did that 4 weeks/weekends in a row. Now there was nothing especially wrong with the car, apart from being old, and everything being a bit half worn out. It had previously "run well, when I parked it" some months or a year earlier. Previously I had heard about using double voltage. ie a 12 volt car battery to start an old 6 volt car, or 24 volts on a 12 volt car. When I first heard that system described to me by a backyard amateur mechanic, I said "doesn't that much voltage hurt the starter ?" and he replied "What wears the starter more, cranking on it for ages and ages until the battery is flat, or 1 or 2 seconds running at double voltage !". So after the fourth failed weekly attempt, I connected up in series those 2 old car catteries, (be sure all lights are turned off. Note that the DC regulator unit protects the DC generator, because when the engine starts, the voltage only rises up to about 15 volts, not enough to activate the regulator and cutout) and even though both of those old batteries were already nominally "flat" (between 9 and 11 volts each) the car engine whizzed over at great speed and roared into life. Once it had been running for a minute and warmed up, it was fine and would start again later on 12 volts. Since then I have had other cars that were on their last legs and they needed 24 volts to start from cold first thing in the day, but were then good for 12 volt starts later. That said, having the ignition timing too far advanced makes a car hard to start, but it'll run like a racing car. Having ignition too far retarded will make it start and run easily, but it won't run good at speed (or not rev up at all, if you are out by one tooth on the distributor timing drive cog).

[@steventhomson7531]

It's so close, I'd say the ignition timing is maybe just 60° or one position out. It might even just need you to spin the distributor while turning the engine over to see if there is a happy spot for initial start up.

[@dj_efk]

I really enjoyed this video and subscribed as a result. Can I give you some advice? When trying to turn a long-dormant engine the first thing you should do is pull the plugs and tip a little diesel down each bore like you eventually did with the P6, otherwise if it does free off you’re scraping the metal rings on the metal bores with no lubrication. Best to give it the best possible chance of eventually giving you good service from the beginning! Then - next step is check compression before spending any further time or money on that engine! Also low-ish compression on some cylinders of an engine that’s been sitting can also be stuck piston rings as I think you alluded to when you finally did the compression check, but the cylinders with really low compression suggested a bigger problem. If the starter wasn’t up to this task I’d have taken it apart and lubricated all moving parts and replaced the bushes at that point. Also, rather than faffing about with points and condenser - the replacement parts for which are nowadays landfill-quality as you have found, I’d go straight to a cheap magnetic / Hall effect electronic ignition setup with 8mm silicone leads, a Lucas Gold coil and NGK plugs - you’ll have mini bolts of lightning at each plug then. Also, please wear gloves or at least barrier cream before handling used oils! They’re carcinogenic.

[@NotEconomicallyViable]

Appreciate the advice 👍🏻

[@vladimirvelimirovic4456]

The Moskvich 408 is a copy of the Zodiac. Loved the old TROSKVICH from 1969

[@ragsbiker7316]

I don't know how you got on eventually but first stick a gas stove under the engine to warm up the oil then drain the old oil and filter Then remove the spark plugs and pour a very light oil down the bores

[@cerealtiller]

Hot Diesel Fuel down the Spark Plug Holes....heat the Block and head with a hot Air gun... Brute Force on the Flywheel or Crankshaft will break the Piston Rings... use a small Spanner or Socket on the Crank Bolt.

[@patrickmann7455]

penetrating oil down the bores leave as long as poss a day or two, then more penetrating oil down bores leave anothe few days, then when you try and turn over go back and forward rather than just force one way

[@daeshbagcentral5298]

I had 2 Zephyr 6 & 2 Zodiac in the 1970's. Great old Motors.