I tried the VIRAL 31-hour winter train journey across Turkey

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I rode Turkey's viral 30-hour train through the snow and the mountains.
The Dogu Express is an 800-mile train journey all the way across Turkey, from Ankara out to Kars. On the 800-mile route, you pass some of Turkey's best mountains and valleys, and get to enjoy it with freshly-cooked food and coffee. And all that for 400 Lira (roughly $12).
You can book to stay in the same Kars hotel as me here: agoda.tp.st/zCV7sBXD
And buy the same e-Sim that allowed me to stay connected to the internet this entire trip across Turkey (aka made it possible at all) from Airalo here: airalo.tp.st/5qe4wdET
(these are referral links, where I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you)
But since videos of it travelling through the snow went viral on Turkish Instagram, it's impossible to get a ticket for the sleeper beds, and sitting up for 30 hours on a Turkish train is no picnic. (even if it was somewhere outside of home where I brought and ate food and therefore probably qualifies as a picnic)
I was on the normal Doğu Ekspresi, after doing this I would probably also recommend doing the same. It's so much cheaper and if you want to visit Erzurum, I would just go and do that at your own pace, rather than on on excursion. Read the seat61 Turkey page for all the advice you need. I was working with Amber Travel who I can 100% recommend, they consistently tried to get me on one of the sleeper beds by checking for cancellations for me until the very last second, and also helped me get a ticket for another journey I did in Turkey and provided a lot of good advice.
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[@thornton]

what did you last spend $12 on?

[@SmallDrives]

2 rotisserie chickens and some veggies from Costco! :)

[@georgiidzesov4192]

@@SmallDrives ooof, sounds good

[@UnknownIdentityDE]

Some bread rolls and pastries in a German bakery

[@thornton]

@@UnknownIdentityDE you're just like me fr

[@OfficialFo]

i just spent 3 times this amount on delivered food 20 minutes ago, now i feel stupid

[@brk_can]

The Turkish flag watermark was there well before everyone had a camera in their pockets. You can see it in photos from ~100 years ago.

[@imcronus]

idk why but as a turkish person the vibe and the video overall made me feel emotional 🥹

[@strawanza2502]

We just visited Turkey for 2 months and your feelings in the beginning as well as how they turn just describes our experience exactly. We came with the Overnight train from Bulgaria, a bit nervous about how Turkey would be. We went to some random Cafe in Istanbul for breakfast, not able to speak any Turkish word, but were welcomed with a smile from everybody. We continued our journey with the 16€ first class high speed train to Karaman, which was crazy. Never been on a more luxurious train. Breakfast, Wifi, VERY comfortable seats, all included. The next 2 months we experienced hospitality out of this world, especially in the rural areas. Turkey since has a special place in my heart.

[@ageoflove1980]

These sort of long distance trains a bit off the beaten path gives you the feeling of travel like no other. I can remember one day during the Trans-Siberian Express journey we had a longer stop in Novosibirsk. I just went outside to the station square and bought a sandwich at some kebab stall there. And suddenly that moment thats so hard to describe hits you: " Im eating a kebab in freaking Novosibirsk..." Only a train like that can provide that sense of how far you have traveled.

[@paulstorey4118]

Took the Dogu express from Istanbul to Erzurum 53 years ago

[@Jaccop]

53 years ago i wasnt even sperm in my fathers balls tf was u doin in turkey 53 years ago bro just wondering

[@Hallelujah666]

Dude, how old are you?

[@usernamedemanded]

How do you compare it with what you see here in this video?

[@paulstorey4118]

@@Hallelujah666 , 71 now was 18 when I went

[@Hallelujah666]

@@paulstorey4118 Nice. I hope you had a nice/different experience as an American(I assume.)

[@tompaulathesenioritinerant367]

We were on this train to Kars early January 2024. Many seat available in the winter. We just had a seat and even got a 50% discount ( $6.00 )being in our mid seventies. I was surprised they gave the discount to non citizens. We also took the return in late February 2024 . Saw much more since some of the trip to Kars was at night. I believe we were only English speaking passengers in both directions? Our journey was 40 hours due to a landslide covering the tracks in the canyon area. Great video and narritive. Life is good . Tom Thorsen & Paula Wolber. USA Ps I wished they dimmed the lights at night!

[@Gtronyx]

thanks for taking the time to visit my hometown (kars)! we really love seeing foreigners there, its natural and historical beauty is quite underrated. hope you enjoyed it good sir

[@windmacky]

I loved the way he was excited about every small detail all along the journey. That's so sweet. Hope you enjoyed your visit to Türkiye.

[@Casinosquare]

Tom 'gets' the little, non instagrammable moments in travelling that make it...i don't know...memorable. Lovely travelogue and his storytelling style is so watchable, thanks dude!

[@stevenshearer7098]

A very well made, honest, brilliantly narrated travel video.

[@plonss]

I did all these long distance Turkish trains in the 1980s. Besides the Doğu Ekspres, there was the equally interesting Tatvan Ekspres to Lake Van and the Kurtalan Ekspress to a place east of Diyarbakır. Back then they had all single, very comfortable sleeping compartments and old fashioned restaurant cars with hot meals and alcoholic drinks, and their starting point was not Ankara but İstanbul. What definitely improved is that the Turkish railways now generally keep to the timetable. Back then delays of half a day or even more no exception. ...

[@odenat3701]

We still have Tatvan express. And it has a novelty; we have a special ferry made for it so the train is put on the ferry and you pass Van lake inside the train on the ferry! Search for "Van Gölü Ekspresi". kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWXdkmasrL-Mnqc

[@SuperHappyface1]

A surprisingly moving story Tom, thanks for sharing!

[@niklas7816]

Can I just say that this video was one of the best you've made so far. The editing, the scenery, the whole composition - simply perfect. You've probably inspired me to travel more and actually use my "Klimaticket" here in Austria. Warm spring greetings from Vienna ❤

[@thornton]

Thanks Niklas, that's really kind of you to say :)

[@davidshuck7957]

Excellent video! Summer before last I traveled from Lisbon to Tbilisi by train and the Dogu Express was the highlight of the trip. I was also the only non-Turk "yabanci" on the train and everyone was also so welcoming and kind despite the language barrier. I was lucky enough to get a couchette and got off in Erzurum, would love to go back and take it again in the winter.

[@thornton]

That’s so cool, was there a train over the border to Tbilisi at that time?

[@davidshuck7957]

Thanks@@thornton, I took a bus through the mountains to Sarp (beautiful 5 hour ride even though almost half is in tunnels), then walked over the border to a minibus to Batumi where I took the train to Tbilisi. I was hoping to keep going with the train to Baku and then on to central Asia via the ferry but the Azeri land border didn't open as planned and Turkmenistan still wasn't accepting tourists at the time. Hopefully I'll be able to pick it up again someday. Just discovered your videos btw and very much enjoying them--I went to college in Brunswick, Maine and I'm so envious of the Amtrak there now!

[@RafaquaQuetta]

What was the alternative destination, Beijing? Or HK

[@davidshuck7957]

@@RafaquaQuetta original plan was over land to Sri Lanka, fly to Singapore, up to Beijing, and then back to Europe via the trans Mongolian

[@hasimrutkayboyac7246]

What a video! Thanks for sharing the "Doğu Ekspresi" with your followers Tom, I hope somebody from here watching this video will take that wonderful journey across Anatolia. I hope I will be doing that next winter. Love from Izmir , from a Turkish follower of yours .And do not forget to come to the Aegean part of Turkey.

[@thornton]

I definitely need to visit that side too :) Thanks!

[@Germanicea]

You drank camlica warm. You need to serve it cold man. Orange one is banging!

[@merttrew]

naaa, to be fair Çamlıca is worst one among all the other Soda's (not counting unknown market sodas) i wasnt paying attention how bad it is until got another soda in my table, as he explained very well it's not that really tasty and the "aromas" really tastes fake

[@Germanicea]

@@merttrew Well, taste is subjective, but if you're dismissing Çamlıca as the worst among sodas without even considering the vast array of unknown market options, perhaps your palate needs a bit more exploration.

[@Hallelujah666]

I like your video mainly because people from first world countries just visit 5 star all included holiday resorts in Antalya etc and all of a sudden they become experts about the country. At least, you attempted to see what is out there. Btw I don't know if there was a problem with that batch but Camlica is usually pretty good. Especially when it is ice cold. But it may be a taste palette thing too.

[@GreatGreebo]

I know the exact feeling you had when you were finally laying down to sleep after such a long journey to a new place. Brilliant video, thank you.

[@notactuallymyrealname]

Heads up that the Turkish ğ is not pronounced like a g. It pulls out the vowel before it or is silent.

[@ianm4554]

The hits just don't stop coming. Love watching your adventures!

[@thornton]

one-man hitmaking machine 🚀

[@yaseminy2052]

Another fantastic travel story. I enjoy your authentic appreciation for foreign experience. I watched your US cross country video at least 3 times. Love the scenery and your choice of music!

[@timor64]

another beutiful video. it is the gentle nature of your voice and observations which really sets you apart

[@tdtm82]

It's because the lira lost 80% of its value against the US dollar over the last five years. I love Turkey. Make sure that you get an iskender kebab.

[@qjtvaddict]

How are they STILL building infrastructure

[@tdtm82]

@@qjtvaddict Reserves.

[@ensarsivasl47]

@@qjtvaddict debt

[@baristhealienated]

well, the inflation in Turkey is catching up with the value of the Dollar, Turkey is no longer as cheap as it used to be before for foreigners. these subsidized lines are huge bargains for Turkish citizens as well, and it is only possible because the railroads are state-run and they actually operate on a loss.

[@Mrbatlefield4]

That is not how inflation works

[@lorisdg07]

I took this train around the same time as you did, I think. It was amazing, turkish people on board were so nice to us. As you said, all the little drawbacks of the trip are nothing compared to the memories you get from that adventure :)

[@ViajeniBree]

If I have known this, I would have included this in my bucketlist. I lived and visited Turkey in the autumn of 2023! 😄

[@BruceM8]

What an exciting adventure! The look of joy that was frequently on your face was priceless. I love those travel times when I feel overwhelmed by the joy of the experience.

[@Travel_With_Jamie]

Great video as always Tom. Wasn’t aware of this journey before, but it looks fantastic! Love the story about the old man leaving you the tea - unexpected moments with strangers like that become the best memories

[@andrineslife]

What an amazing video, I can't quite decide if I'm jealous or not, but I'm very grateful you documented it for us!

[@progster999]

Brilliant video and a massive eye-opener. This must be among the better train journeys on this planet.

[@elif_g24]

You saw my city too! Sending love 💕

[@botjewalt1654]

I took this train last summer! One of the most memorable train rides ever for sure

[@markvolstad9380]

1) I love how you always manage to extract the positive out of any situation you find yourself in! 2) Was that a steam locomotive on the left side of the platform in Kars??

[@taartog]

So beautiful the eastern express. Thr snow is so beautiful .

[@harriscouwenberg139]

glad you are back in Europe Tom, awesome video, thanks!

[@PaulGodfrey]

That looks like an amazing journey. Thanks for the honest review with the highs and lows of the trip.

[@nc2333]

You are such a good storyteller 🥲 I loved this video and will watch whatever you share from now on❤️

[@MatthieuDeW]

Look at Tom's face, fellow comment section dwellers, for this is what a master storyteller looks like. I applaud your work, sire.

[@MichalMati]

Did this vertical journey 20 years ago in the opposite direction. Took the Vangolu exp. on the way there from Istanbul to Tatvan/Van (train on the ferry over the lake) and a combination of minibuses form Van to Kars. Unforgettable memories.

[@robertpoppen2610]

Loved this Tom. Especially the narration. If you have never looked into being a voice over artist you may want to look into it. It can be very lucrative and I think you would be brilliant at it.

[@audioupgrades]

Great video, as always, and some of your best footage so far, I think.

[@conorreynolds9739]

I hitchhiked around eastern Turkey in 2009, one of the friendliest (and most beautiful) places I’ve ever been.

[@TwistedHigh]

I really love your videos! You have such a great vibe

[@el-it9431]

I really loved that your behave in every moment, enjoying even little things is amazing feauture. Everybody must do the same

[@themorningflightinindonesi3558]

You were amazing at explaining the journey. It was awesome.

[@himbourbanist]

Oh man, that brief flash of excitement and dread when you sit in your coach seat on train ride that's going to be 24+ hours long

[@rail_away]

Fantastic video, Tom! Your videos are so wholesome and insightful. An incredible journey as well and one I’d love to take one day.

[@JohannesNikitin91]

Btw I recommend night train from Istanbul to Sofia!! Those same trains but I had a place in sleeper cabin. Btw Bulgaria is good country for train traveling. Maybe still the cheapest in whole Europe. Their trains are quite empty, almost never full, always have space. And all seats are in cabins where you can open the window when it feels like your balcony.

[@cjay2]

Thank you Tom for this excellent travelogue. Greetings from Italy.

[@Gtronyx]

I've also been on the train, was a lovely experience. Ankara is my current place of residence, and Kars which is the final destination is me and my dad's hometown and I was getting to see it for the first time ever, so it was a wonderful experience cruising through the countryside. If you're lucky enough, you may even be awake to see the Euphrates and Kizilirmak Rivers :) Definitely recommend, the price is also dirt cheap

[@GZBro]

Thank you for showing us this trip!

[@thornton]

☺️

[@lindahollis5444]

Love following your travel...you have some amazing experiences!

[@isedart8482]

Such a fantastic video, thanks for sharing the experience

[@louispaine5307]

Thanks Tom . Love your humour. 😊 Your videos stand out even more with a bit of humour.

[@sunkenindeaf]

Great report, Mr Thornton. Waving from Istanbul.

[@peterdnreynolds777]

Brilliant video and great scenery. Hope all is well, take care

[@ibnbattuta34]

Your vlog was wonderful. I'd like to try taking the train to Kars, but as you said, it's not easy to catch. Maybe I'll try the regular train, like you did in your travels. Thanks .

[@g.t.8304]

Too critical. If you worry about your comfort so much, stay home next time. I took overnight bus and train trips in the UK and they were not that comfortable.

[@arindamrc5911]

You have a very nice calm voice Tom. Love your videos.

[@karmaoutlaw]

Oh this was absolutely fantastic! After all that I hope you were able to spend some time in Kars exploring.

[@elotrixelotreck]

Thank you so much for sharing this video Tom! It really impressed me and I would love to do this trip with a friend or my girlfriend. Especially because you can have a good time without a big budget. Great video!👌

[@kerimthedream1]

Amazing storytelling 🙌

[@1dkappe]

Love your journeys.

[@cartographer1977]

Great video Tom! 😀

[@dariogemelli]

Thank you for this inspiring content.

[@pawel8365]

Fantastic video, if anything it motivates me to visit this amazing country.

[@MatthiasLowenstein]

Inspiring doğu-mentary!

[@Coltrain78]

I love your videos and the cool sublime vibe here.

[@robertpavey5615]

That is some fantastic scenery!

[@DW-rb1if]

nice scenery, hope o take this train too one day

[@studylof_i]

Hi Tom Im Turkısh I love your vıdeo hava nice travels , Türkiye is really beatiful I hope you enjoyed

[@tinocious]

I took Doğu Express back in 2018, when they didn't have the touristic train yet, and I was lucky to have been able to book a place in a first class compartment. I did it the other way round though, travelling from Kars to Ankara, and thoroughly enjoyed the scenic ride. I also visited Ani, just like you did, but I had travelled in Armenia before arriving in Turkey, so it gave me two different perspectives to contemplate about while wondering through the ruins - a complicated tragedy, no matter how you look at it. In any case, it's a journey worth doing, regardless of the class of travel. BTW, you apparently stayed at the same hotel as I did - "Kars Konak"!

[@barrypollard5933]

That was a spectacular journey and video.

[@marianesantana9504]

amazing views ❤ loved it

[@TimtimTimson]

Just love this video

[@Lunar777-cr6hk]

Ben Türküm ülkemize geldiğiniz için teşekkür ederiz Umarım bende bir gün Yurt dışına gidebilirim

[@BobRoss-bp2yv]

loved every atto-seconds of it

[@fredskronk]

What a fantastic journey! And what a sweet man buying you that Thea.

[@The2wanderers]

I love Turkey so much. Regret not getting out this way when we were there.

[@FromtheWindowSeat]

Wow. What an experience. Wasn’t easy for you but strangely rewarding. ✌️

[@silondon9010]

Great channel, just subscribed

[@augustgeyler9566]

What a well told story!

[@SisterSunny]

wow, that was actually surprisingly touching

[@moovingfoox0815]

I did once in the early 70es a 5 night ride from Istanbul to Teheran. The train was crossing Van lake on a ferry.. The price for this Trip, with fake Studentcard was the lowest to make the Hippie Trail from Istanbul to Teheran

[@obbayazit]

Thank you for this nice video. I will add that as a Turkish guy I never liked camlica but a similar bevarage, Uludag is my preferred soda in Turkey, especially their orange flavored one - although the last time I bought, the color was lighter and taste was sour. I don't know if it was a spolied one, or if they changed their formula.

[@ilyakasnacheev]

A couple hours from Kars and you end up in a major tourism hub of Georgian Batumi, so it's not actually that desolate.

[@neotrnty4717]

Batum was Turkish

[@educatingkate]

Unreal video! May I ask who the local travel agent was in Turkey as I am planning to do this trip myself in October :)

[@nc2333]

6:18 why am I crying here?

[@lavandulaangustifolia7902]

Hey, How did you get back Home from Kars?

[@TheKroate78]

looks amazing

[@ulfw]

I'd have flown from IST to Erzincan, stay a night there and take the train from there the next morning. 9 hour train ride from there during the day time 11:30am departure. Perfect.

[@Lefaid]

I did not think I was going to enjoy your style of video but I got sucked in. I am such a sucker for experiences exactly like this. This is what travel is supposed to be.

[@tedg4171]

Another good train video. A few have asked what my inquisitive mind wanted to know also, How did you get back? Or Where did you go from there? But I guess that is saved for a future video.

[@johnhawks5035]

A ferry trip (for one person, no vehicle), one-way from Oakland to San Francisco, will cost just about the same. Travel time: about 30 minutes. Very lovely view though.

[@thornton]

Haha yeah, you can’t even get to the Isle of Wight for that price. Ferries are like $30+

[@ersalanni]

nice!! i'm yet to try this train and i'm turkish aha need to give it a go sometime

[@Jan-bf2ht]

Oh wow, I took this train about 10 years ago and back then had no issues to get a bunk bed. Unfortunately I had two turkish men with me, in general very nice, but chain-smoking (despite all the signs). For some reason they didn't understand me when I asked them to stop smoking at least for a bit 🙈😁. The train ride was very smooth though and really nice. Kars and Ani were my goal to reach and it was definitely all worth it … I didn't know it was such a "trend" now, one downside of the constant stream of social media 😉 … but obviously also good for eastern Turkey I suppose. I would definitely recommend it. Unfortunately they don't offer the train from Istanbul to Teheran anymore, which was an even more epic journey.

[@mtkkck7625]

You give me good feelings, may God bless you

[@3mekG]

Lights are left ON for your security. Cheers 😊

[@Transterra55]

Beautiful…memories for a lifetime.

[@TR-ry3cn]

That's a nice route.

[@Frazsier-lx1gr]

Nice video, as usual. ❤👍Now you have to take the Optima Express which runs from my hometown in the south of Austria, to Edirne, Turkey. Similar distance. But much more expensive! 😕 "the random sleep-deprived Englishman at the next table" 😄👍